a man walking a camel in the desert on a sunny day with a blue sky

How I Paraglided Across the Gobi Dunes

20 camels. Two paragliders. A mission to explore thousand-foot-high sand dunes.

Story and Photograph byGeorge Steinmetz
3 min read
This story appears in the June 2018 issue of National Geographic magazine.
Globe showing the Gobi dessert in Asia
NGM Maps

T MINUS Six Months

Gearing up: For a project to photograph the world’s extreme deserts, I wanted to visit the giant sand dunes in China’s Inner Mongolia. The only way into the Gobi is on foot or by camel. The Chinese military controls access, so I teamed up with Chinese scientists studying desertification. The plan was that I’d fly over the dunes and they’d follow on camel. Six months beforehand I went to Beijing to pick up the permits and arrange for a caravan to meet us at the edge of the desert.

T MINUS two weeks

Essential packing list: I did test flights each week before leaving to make sure the paraglider worked properly. In the desert you have to be your own repair shop. And if you run out of gas—you’re out of gas.

  • Two aircraft and spare parts
  • 200 liters of fuel (five flights each for two gliders)
  • Rice and noodles
  • Chinese military maps—no longitude or latitude listed
  • Both shorts and fleece for the dramatic day-to-night temperature variation
  • A camel load of beer and whiskey

T MINUS two days

Ready for launch: We flew from Beijing to Lanzhou and then drove to a town near the edge of the desert to meet our camel team. We camped in the sand the last night before setting off into the dunes. I didn’t unpack the aircraft until we got out there and set up camp under the stars in the valleys between the dunes.

Lake water percolates through the sand, so you can drink freshwater out of your footsteps as you walk around.
George Steinmetz

By the Numbers

500,000

Square miles of desert

6,700

Miles traveled from home

1,400 square miles

Annual rate of desert growth

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