Perennials The Gardener's Reference (2007) PDF

CARTER
BECKER
and
LILLY
MORE THAN 2700 PROVEN SPECIES AND CULTIVARS US$49.95
PERENNIALS
PERENNIALS
The Gardener’s Reference
PERENNIALS play a central role in today’s gardens,
SUSAN CARTER is a garden and landscape designer in
contributing both colorful flowers and, in many cases,
Seattle, Washington. She has 25 years of experience in various
areas of horticulture and an endless desire to know everything handsome foliage. Choosing specific plants, however, can be
there is to know about plants. daunting. Is this plant hardy in my area? How big does it get?
When does it bloom? How much sun does it need? What kind
CARRIE BECKER is a lifelong resident of Seattle, where she’s
gardened for more than 40 years. A professional gardener,
The Gardener’s Reference of soil does it prefer? What are its water requirements? What
landscape designer, consultant, and educator, she was one of

While browsing through these pages, you may find yourself rejoicing are the best varieties? Perennials: The Gardener’s Reference
answers these questions and many others for more than 2700
the original designers of the Northwest Perennial Alliance out loud. Here at last are the answers to questions that very few species and cultivars in 250 genera, making it one of the most
Borders at the Bellevue Botanical Garden.
garden books address at all, let alone in depth. comprehensive guides available.
Another of the original designers of the internationally Concise introductory chapters discuss the characteristics of
acclaimed NPA Borders, BOB LILLY has been in the the most important perennial plant families; plants that lend
horticultural trade since working at a classic old-time Seattle
ANN LOVEJOY
themselves to special kinds of gardens (seasonal and shade
nursery during his summer breaks in college. He now works as borders, cottage gardens, meadows); and general perennial
a plant broker, selling perennials to wholesale growers.
maintenance. The heart of the book, however, is the A-to-Z
encyclopedia. For each genus, the authors give the plant’s
scientific and common names, origins, preferred growing
conditions, and light requirements, and offer hard-earned
advice on management techniques, propagation, pests and
diseases, and recommended companion plants. Individual
species and cultivars are listed in easy-to-use charts that
include height and spread, hardiness zones, foliage and flower
characteristics (including bloom time), and other helpful
comments. The informative text is enlivened throughout by
the authors’ wide-ranging experience with perennials and by
Susan Carter Lynne Harrison’s sumptuous photographs.

Whether you’re a beginning gardener, a seasoned expert,
Carrie Becker or a green-industry professional, Perennials: The Gardener’s

Reference will be the book you turn to again and again for
Bob Lilly essential information about these supremely beautiful and

useful plants.
Jacket photographs by Lynne Harrison.
ISBN-13: 978- 0 - 88192- 820 - 4
Authors’ photograph by Jack Bucher.
foreword by Ann Lovejoy
EAN
For details on other Timber Press books or to receive our catalog,
please visit our Web site, www.timberpress.com. In the United States and
Canada you may also reach us at 1-800-327-5680, and in the United Kingdom
at info@timberpress.co.uk. photographs by Lynne Harrison
£35.00
Jacket_TP2.indd 1 1/11/07 6:06:47 PM

PERENNIALS
06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof No_5

PERENNIALS
The Gardener’s Reference
SUSAN CARTER
CARRIE BECKER
BOB LILLY
Foreword by Ann Lovejoy

Photographs by Lynne Harrison
Timber Press

Frontispiece: A summer border, Agapanthus ‘Prolific Blue’, with the New Zealand grass Anemanthele lesso-
niana, Crocosmia ×crocosmiiflora ‘Solfatare’, C. ‘Jenny Bloom’, Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’,
and Cornus sericea ‘Sunshine’; foreground, Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ and Ophiopogon planiscapus
‘Nigrescens’.
To Mousemilk, Bullslops, and Treacleberries
Text copyright © 2007 by Susan Carter, Carrie Becker, and Bob Lilly.
Photographs © 2007 by Lynne Harrison.
All rights reserved.
Published in 2007 by
Timber Press, Inc.
The Haseltine Building
133 S.W. Second Avenue, Suite 450
Portland, Oregon 97204-3527, U.S.A.
www.timberpress.com
For contact information regarding editorial, marketing, sales, and distribution in the United
Kingdom, see www.timberpress.co.uk.
Printed in China
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Carter, Susan, 1944-
Perennials : the gardener’s reference / Susan Carter, Carrie Becker, and
Bob Lilly ; photographs by Lynne Harrison.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-88192-820-4
1. Perennials. I. Becker, Carrie. II. Lilly, Bob, 1947- III. Title.
SB434.C37 2007
635.9´32--dc22 2006033224
A catalog record for this book is also available from the British Library.
001_032_TP.indd 4 1/11/07 3:34:17 PM

CONTENTS
Foreword by Ann Lovejoy 7

Preface 9
Plant Families and Characteristics 11

Plants for Special Gardens 17
Maintenance Guidelines 21
Perennials A-to-Z 33
Glossary 503
Common Names 507
Nurseries and Sources 513
Recommended Reading 517
U.S. Department of Agriculture Hardiness Zone Map 519
Index 520
FOREWORD
If you love flowers in general and are perfectly content to The book in your hand is a genuine labor of love and
make do with the seasonal offerings found at the grocery the fruit of several lifetimes of hands-on experience,
or hardware store or at a big box garden center, you don’t bolstered by sound theory. Those who have contributed
really need this book (though it will vastly improve your to this volume represent hundreds of years of direct, prac-
gardening techniques and broaden your horticultural hori- tical, and daily practice of what is preached herein. Rather
zons in an astonishing manner). If, however, you lust after than saying “achilleas run,” the authors spell out the habits
the rare and covet the unusual, desire choice collector’s and proclivities of as many achilleas as they find garden-
plants, or simply want to know how to care for a full range worthy, explaining precisely how each varies from the
of perennial plants, this book is the one you have been other and where the runners might best be used.
longing for in vain, because it didn’t previously exist. Striking and culturally compatible combinations are
Indeed, while browsing through these pages, you liberally offered with the plant profiles, helping you to
may find yourself rejoicing out loud. Here at last are the partner each plant pleasingly. You’ll also find ideas for
answers to questions that very few garden books address extending the season of interest for various vignettes,
at all, let alone in depth. Where else will you find out perhaps by prolonging a color story with appropriate
how to site and plant or when and whether to pinch back companions, or by screening fading foliage with fresh.
or deadhead lovely creatures like Armoracia rusticana I have watched with great interest as this book has
‘Variegata’, Meum athamanticum, or Telekia speciosa? gradually grown over the years. Most garden books
Plant care is treated less generically here than is usual, offer the experience of one person, delivered in a single
and the voice of experience sings through very clearly. voice. Here, the three main authors (all with distinctive
The overview of appropriate gardening practices may lift voices) are joined by guest gardeners who offer pithy and
a few eyebrows, since some of the authors’ recommen- detailed observations of their own. A true collaboration,
dations contradict the simplistic and often soil damaging it is yet a coherent and tightly conceived guidebook that
weed-and-feed approach taken by many generalists. The is easy to use and full of telling details. Welcome to one
focus is on successful and sustainable techniques that of the most enchanting aspects of the natural world—the
steadily improve soil tilth and quality, reducing the need magical kingdom of perennials. Perennials are indeed
to feed and water your plants. As a walk in any natural the lifeblood of the border, and there is to date no better
environment demonstrates, healthy soil can support introduction to that delightful company than this.
healthy plants very well without human inputs. When
a bit of help is needed for a particular plant, you’ll find
specific suggestions for such assistance, along with Ann Lovejoy
timing tips. Bainbridge Island
7
Late spring in the shade, a north-facing bed under an old apple tree, with Clematis montana working its way up
the trunk. In the foregound is Omphalodes cappadocica, Pulmonaria longifolia subsp. cevennensis, and the shiny
foliage of Colchicum autumnale. Foliage repetition in the midground is courtesy of Podophyllum pleianthum and
Macleaya cordata; the large central shrub in flower is Viburnum lantana ‘Variefolium’.

PREFACE
This book is a collection of information gathered in characteristics, to help with plant selection and siting.
collaboration. We, the ones who wrote it, have nearly Also included are some subshrubs that are indispens-
two hundred years of collective gardening experience. able to the mixed herbaceous border. These small, hardy
Some of us garden on heavy clay, some on sandy soil; and shrubs usually have perennial relatives and are often
a variety of experiences in growing plants have been had evergreen (Convolvulus cneorum, for example); if they die
by all. Often we’ve had the pleasure of acquiring a plant back part way in cold-winter conditions, they will regrow
new to us—and then the frustration of not being able to the following spring.
locate cultural information on the plant. We have read a That covers what’s here. What’s not here is informa-
great deal and have trialed (and errored) a lot of plants, tion on annuals, trees, most biennials, and most bulbs and
figuring out how to grow them well. It became clear to us shrubs. This book is not a complete plant dictionary by
that there was a need for this information, in one place design. Why? This book concerns perennials that can be
and easy to use. This prompted us to put it all in writing, acquired and grown well in many parts of North America.
and that is how this book came about. Now we will tell Although our experience with gardening has been in the
you how to use it—what’s here, what’s not, and why. maritime region of the Pacific Northwest, the informa-
Sections concerning plant families and characteris- tion we include about perennials is general and should be
tics; plants for specific types of gardens and certain times helpful to all those who grow herbaceous perennials.
of the year; and general garden maintenance follow. At
the back of the book, you will find, among other things,
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
a glossary of terms, some recommended reading (books
we find useful), a list of nurseries and other sources for Our special thanks go to Ann Bucher and Susan Buckles
the plants, and a list of common names followed by their for always being available to help us with this project.
scientific counterparts for those of you who (like us) orig- We appreciate the years of meeting in one or the other’s
inally knew these plants by their charming colloquial and home, their valuable editorial contributions, and their
historical names. Speaking of books we find useful, the commitment to help us compile the most accurate infor-
RHS Plant Finder, which is compiled and updated annu- mation on perennials.
ally, is our final authority on plant nomenclature. Names We also want to thank Susan Latter, Linda Longmire,
are always in flux, but the RHS Plant Finder represents Lee Neff, Linda Orantes, Darby Ringer, Luke Senior, and
the most current information available on the subject. Sara Gerhart Snell, who gave us assistance with research
Most importantly, in between, you will find an A-to-Z and editing; Janet Endsley, who worked on format; and
section—the bulk of the book—that tells genus by genus Cheryl Peterson, who helped with data entry.
all the information we consider relevant for successful We all began gardening at different times and were
cultivation of the plants themselves. To convey these influenced by many people. From the early days of the
methods of maintenance for herbaceous perennials is Northwest Perennial Alliance: Kevin Nicolay, Jerry
the primary objective of this book. That is our focus. Sedenko, Roy Davidson, Jerry Flintoff, Pam Snow,
Each genus includes a chart of specific plants and their Eleanor Carnwath, and, of course, Ann Lovejoy. From the
9
10 Perennials: A Gardener’s Reference
lecture circuit, our mentors from Great Britain: Penelope generation? Our appetite for perennials would never have
Hobhouse, Rosemary Verey, Dilys Davies, Christopher been met without all the wonderful growers we found
Lloyd, and Graham Rice. From the Seattle area, our through the years, either at the specialty plant sales or
garden friends, whose gardens we actually had time to sit through the many retail nurseries who found plants for
in: Susan and Barry Latter, Darlene and Dan Huntington, us, even the ones we didn’t know we wanted or needed.
Mark Henry, Steve Antonow, Rosemary and Cliff Bailey, Finally, the Perennial Borders created by the North-
Barbara Flynn, the Severences, the Mulligans, Margaret west Perennial Alliance (NPA) at the Bellevue Botanical
Lockett, Pat and John Bender, Elfi and Bill Rahr, Loie Garden have been an inspiration and a laboratory for us
Benedict, Marian Raitz, and Judy Prindle. all. Without that project, we would have learned less and
Where would we be without our grandparents, might never have seen the need for this book.
especially in those families where gardening skipped a
PLANT FAMILIES
AND CHARACTERISTICS
Plants are typically grouped into families based on simi- Araceae (arum family): arisaema, arisarum, arum, dracun-
larities in their structures. Here we list the family names, culus, pinellia, zantedeschia. Corms or rhizomes.
both scientific and common (parenthetically), of the Typically, flowers have a spathe and spadix, with the
genera we chose as main entries in the A-to-Z portion of spathe enclosing the spadix. Prefers shade and moist,
the book; a listing of those genera; and the dominating rich, well-drained soil. Best in an open woodland or
characteristics of each family. high shade. Monocots.
Aristolochiaceae (birthwort family): asarum. Flowers
Acanthaceae (acanthus family): acanthus, strobilanthes.
are hidden under the foliage; cordate leaves. Grow in
Flowers in spikes, sometimes with brightly colored
part shade to full shade; some are evergreen; drought
bracts.
tolerant once established; some like humus-rich soil.
Acoraceae (sweetflag family): acorus. Rhizomatous.
Asclepiadaceae (milkweed family): asclepias. Leaves are
Flowers are insignificant, in a spadix. Monocots.
simple. Milky sap; may have interesting seed capsules;
Aizoaceae (fig marigold family): delosperma. Ice plants, sun lovers.
fleshy leaves.
Asphodelaceae (asphodel family): asphodeline, erem-
Alliaceae (onion family): agapanthus, allium, nectar- urus, kniphofia. Formerly part of the Liliaceae. Flowers
oscordum. Flowers in umbels; members need sharp in spikes. Full sun, sharp drainage; prairie and steppe
drainage, full sun; heavy feeders. All Allium species are plants. Monocots.
true bulbs and edible. Monocots.
Asteraceae (daisy family): achillea, anaphalis, anthemis,
Alstroemeriaceae (Peruvian lily family): alstroemeria. artemisia, aster, bidens, boltonia, buphthalmum,
Formerly part of the Liliaceae. Rhizomes and tubers. centaurea, chrysanthemum, chrysogonum, cirsium,
Invasive; exploding seed capsules. Monocots. coreopsis, cosmos, cynara, doronicum, echinacea,
echinops, erigeron, eupatorium, helenium, helianthus,
Apiaceae (carrot family): aegopodium, astrantia, chaero-
heliopsis, inula, kalimeris, leucanthemum, liatris, ligu-
phyllum, cryptotaenia, eryngium, ferula, foeniculum,
laria, petasites, rudbeckia, silphium, silybum, solidago,
meum, myrrhis, oenanthe, pimpinella. Flowers in
×solidaster, stokesia, syneilesis, tanacetum, telekia,
umbels; leaves divided and carrotlike. Taproots, and
vernonia. The only thing the genera have in common
therefore difficult to divide, transplant, or move. Self-
is the flower. It consists of disk flowers and ray flowers
sows, some aggressively.
arranged in a capitulum. This family (formerly the
Apocynaceae (dogbane family): amsonia. Blue, starlike Compositae) has in the past been divided into tribes
flowers. that happen to require similar culture. There is a
11
An early summer border with morning sun and dappled afternoon shade lets us grow Acanthus mollis ‘Hollard’s
Gold’ and Geranium psilostemon, with Tanacetum parthenium ‘Aureum’, Euphorbia schillingii, and Aconitum
lycoctonum subsp. vulparia. Breaking up that afternoon sun is Liriodendron tulipifera ‘Aureomarginatum’, with
Rosa ‘Henri Martin’ to the right and Catalpa bignonioides ‘Aurea’ above.
member in this family for every situation. Most make This family has mostly blue flowers, curled inflores-
good cut flowers. cence in bud, and hairy leaves. They like winter and
spring sun. The forget-me-nots (myosotis) are the only
Begoniaceae (begonia family): begonia. The garden-
prolific self-sower among them.
worthy begonias are herbaceous; they have fleshy
stems and male and female flowers on the same plant. Brassicaceae (mustard family): armoracia, cardamine,
They do best in part shade. crambe, erysimum, hesperis, iberis, lunaria. Formerly
the Cruciferae. Flowers are cross-shaped with four
Berberidaceae (barberry family): epimedium, jeffersonia,
petals. Mostly sun lovers, with a wide range of cultural
podophyllum, vancouveria. This handsome group
requirements. Beloved of the cabbage moth.
of plants is rhizomatous except for jeffersonia. They
form large colonies over time and are shade and wood- Campanulaceae (bellflower family): adenophora,
land plants. campanula, jasione, lobelia, platycodon. Flowers are
mostly bell-shaped; lots of blue flowers. A wide range
Bignoniaceae (bignonia family): incarvillea. Lime-loving
of cultural requirements.
plants with taproots and large, tubular, fluted flowers.
Cannaceae (canna family): canna. Require sun, heat,
Boraginaceae (borage family): anchusa, brunnera, mer-
and moisture; all are tender except Canna indica.
tensia, myosotis, omphalodes, pulmonaria, symphytum.
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Do you have wet ground? The round, bronze leaves of Ligularia dentata ‘Desdemona’ make a striking contrast
to the vertical foliage of Iris pseudacorus ‘Variegata’, I. sibirica, and the starry blue flowers of Camassia leitchlini
subsp. suksdorfii ‘Blauwe Donau’. Two golden-foliage plants frame this composition: on the left is Physocarpus
opulifolius ‘Dart’s Gold’ and on the right, Cornus alba ‘Gouchaultii’.
They have massive woody roots that must not freeze. Convolvulaceae (morning glory family): convolvulus.
Monocots. Calyx and corollas in fives; flowers are trumpet-shaped
and clasped by a calyx, and last only one day or one
Caryophyllaceae (pink family): dianthus, gypsophila,
night; milky sap. They always twine (if they twine) to
lychnis, saponaria, silene. Mostly pink flowers. Like
the right.
limy soil, sun, and sharp drainage, and are generally
short-lived. Crassulaceae (stonecrop family): sedum. Succulent
herbaceous perennials with fleshy leaves. All are
Commelinaceae (spiderwort family): tradescantia.
drought tolerant.
Three-petaled flowers with prominent stamens.
Monocots. Dipsacaceae (teasel family): cephalaria, knautia, scabiosa.
Flowers and seedheads resemble pincushions. The
Convallariaceae (lily of the valley family): convallaria,
seed is food for songbirds.
disporum, liriope, ophiopogon, polygonatum, smilacina,
tricyrtis, uvularia. Small bell-like flowers, not neces- Euphorbiaceae (spurge family): euphorbia. Milky toxic
sarily pendent; the leaves clasp the stems. Formerly sap. Unusual inflorescence; the showy parts are
part of the Liliaceae, this is a diverse family with a wide colored bracts, mostly yellow. Ropey roots.
range of cultural requirements. Monocots.
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Your grandmother’s pink: Rosa ‘Cerise Bouquet’, backed by an exuberant Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’, is enliv-
ened by a complementary foreground of Iris sibirica and Salvia ×sylvestris. Geranium psilostemon adds its bright
magenta flowers to this demonstration of the color wheel.
Gentianaceae (gentian family): gentiana. Some of the best Hyacinthaceae (hyacinth family): camassia, eucomis,
blues among garden plants. Flowers tubular; leaves galtonia. Flowers in racemes above straplike foliage.
opposite. Monocots.
Geraniaceae (cranesbill family): geranium. Five-petaled Hydrangeaceae (hydrangea family): kirengeshoma.
flowers, mostly pink or blue. Seedhead looks like a Yellow shuttlecock flowers.
cranesbill; they toss their seed.
Iridaceae (iris family): belamcanda, crocosmia, dierama,
Gunneraceae (gunnera family): gunnera. Grown for the iris, libertia, schizostylis, sisyrinchium. Flower parts
foliage; a wide range of foliage forms and sizes. in threes or multiples of three; narrow leaves with
parallel veins. Seed in capsules. Monocots.
Hemerocallidaceae (daylily family): hemerocallis.
Formerly part of the Liliaceae. Straplike foliage; flower Lamiaceae (mint family): agastache, ajuga, calamintha,
parts in threes or multiples of three. Monocots. dracocephalum, lamium, marrubium, melissa,
monarda, nepeta, origanum, perovskia, phlomis,
Hostaceae (hosta family): hosta. Formerly part of the
physostegia, salvia, stachys. Formerly the Labiatae.
Liliaceae. Mostly blue to violet flowers in racemes
Many are aromatic, many are invasive; all have square
above the foliage; ornamental leaves on strong peti-
stems and two-lipped flowers.
oles. Monocots.
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Startling simplicity—every garden has a perfect photograph. Here, a luminescent Eryngium giganteum shows
up against Geranium ‘Ann Folkard’, Knautia macedonica, and Astilbe chinensis. Design by Sharon Nyenhuis.
Linaceae (flax family): linum. The flower parts are orga- Paeoniaceae (peony family): paeonia. Fleshy-rooted,
nized in fives; flowers are mostly blue. herbaceous perennials.
Loganiaceae (strychnine family): spigelia. Poisonous Papaveraceae (poppy family): corydalis, dicentra,
plants, with flowers that are small and star-shaped. eomecon, glaucium, macleaya, meconopsis, papaver,
romneya, sanguinaria, stylophorum. A diverse family
Malvaceae (mallow family): alcea, callirhoe, malva,
(soon to be divided). Colored or white milky sap;
sidalcea. Five-petaled hollyhocklike flowers; each petal
distinctive seedpods.
has a conspicuous notch. Seeds in a wheel like cheese
inside a papery calyx. Does best in sun and heat. Papilionaceae (pea family): baptisia, galega, lathyrus,
lupinus, thermopsis, trifolium. Formerly the Legumi-
Morinaceae (mulberry family): morina. Formerly part of
nosae and for fifteen minutes the family Fabiaceae—
the Dipsacaceae. Short-lived; spiny foliage.
what next? After the grass family, this is the most
Onagraceae (evening primrose family): epilobium, gaura, important food source for man. Nitrogen fixing.
oenothera. Four-part stigma, flower parts in fours. A
Phytolaccaceae (pokeweed family): phytolacca. Large,
weedy group of plants.
fleshy-rooted herbaceous perennials.
Orchidaceae (orchid family): bletilla. Ground or terres-
Plantaginaceae (plantain family): plantago. Parallel-
trial orchids. Monocots.
veined leaves, somewhat weedy plants. Monocots.

Plumbaginaceae (plumbago family): armeria, cera- mukdenia, peltoboykinia, rodgersia, saxifraga, tellima,
tostigma. Flowers have five petals, five stamens, and tiarella, tolmiea. Flowers have five petals, five sepals,
five sepals, which are often thin and papery. and ten stamens; most are fairly small, in airy racemes.
Leaves are mostly basal; many plants are grown for
Polemoniaceae (phlox family): phlox, polemonium.
their ornamental leaves.
Flowers have five petals that join in a narrow tube.
Tough plants, slowly increasing. Scrophulariaceae (snapdragon family): chelone,
cymbalaria, diascia, digitalis, linaria, mimulus, para-
Polygonaceae (knotweed family): fallopia, persicaria,
hebe, penstemon, phygelius, rehmannia, scrophu-
rheum, rumex. Showy, long-lasting in flower and in
laria, verbascum, veronica, veronicastrum. Flowers
seed; flowers in tight spikes. Aggressive plants.
are mostly two-lipped, tubular, with podlike seed
Primulaceae (primrose family): dodecatheon, lysimachia, capsules.
primula. Flower parts in fives.
Solanaceae (nightshade family): physalis. Family with
Ranunculaceae (buttercup family): aconitum, actaea, great economic value (potatoes, tomatoes); all seem to
anemone, anemonella, aquilegia, caltha, cimicifuga, have both edible and poisonous parts. The perennials
clematis, delphinium, helleborus, hepatica, pulsa- have decorative seedpods.
tilla, ranunculus, semiaquilegia, thalictrum, trollius.
Trilliaceae (trillium family): paris, trillium. All plant parts
Numerous stamens; no fusion of floral parts. Majority
in threes or multiples of three. Never pick the flowers,
love moisture; many are poisonous.
as this may severely set the plant back. Monocots.
Rosaceae (rose family): acaena, alchemilla, aruncus, fili-
Tropaeolaceae (nasturtium family): tropaeolum. Tubers.
pendula, fragaria, geum, gillenia, potentilla, sangui-
Palmately lobed leaves.
sorba. Flower parts in fives. A large family with many
woody plant members. Valerianaceae (valerian family): centranthus, patrinia,
valeriana. Small flowers, aromatic plants.
Rubiaceae (madder family): phuopsis. Leaves in whorls,
distinctive odor. Verbenaceae (verbena family): verbena. Flowers are
small, funnel-shaped, and in clusters; leaves are dark
Rutaceae (rue family): dictamnus. Distinctive seed
green, rough, toothed.
capsules.
Violaceae (violet family): viola. Flowers are pansylike and
Saururaceae (lizard’s-tail family): houttuynia. Moisture-
irregular, with five petals often with a facelike pattern;
loving plants.
all are edible.
Saxifragaceae (saxifrage family): astilbe, astilboides,
Zingiberaceae (ginger family): hedychium, roscoea.
bergenia, darmera, francoa, heuchera, ×heucherella,
Tuberous roots. Monocots.
PLANTS FOR SPECIAL GARDENS
THE EARLY SPRING BORDER
The very early spring border color is dominated by chionodoxa, muscari, narcissus, primula
(Group 1), and Ranunculus ficaria cultivars. These are often layered under shrubs and trees, and
the more vigorous of the summer perennials, such as Geranium psilostemon and persicaria. This
spring border also includes Lathyrus vernus, omphalodes, Pulmonaria angustifolia, and Veronica
peduncularis ‘Georgia Blue’.
SPRING EPHEMERALS
These are a group of plants that bloom heavily in early spring and die down entirely by summer.
Most can stand some summer drought. Clean up when ratty, or leave alone and let other plants
grow over the dying foliage. Anemone nemorosa, A. blanda, anemonella, Geranium tuberosum,
G. malviflorum, Dicentra spectabilis, and Ranunculus ficaria fall into this category.
THE SUMMER BORDER

Perennials that bloom in summer (late June through August, for us) in full sun include achillea,
alstroemeria, anchusa, baptisia, campanula, centranthus, Coreopsis verticillata, crocosmia,
delphinium, Euphorbia schillingii, E. sikkimensis, hemerocallis, inula, penstemon, pimpinella,
salvia, stachys, geraniums by the score, and geums that repeat bloom.
THE COTTAGE GARDEN

The cottage garden is usually less under control than most perennial gardens and borders.
More than half of this list are either thugs or self-sowers, and some are biennials: alcea, alche-
milla, anthemis, aquilegia, artemisia, Campanula persicifolia, centaurea, Coreopsis grandi-
flora, delphinium, dianthus, Digitalis purpurea, Eryngium giganteum, Geranium ×magnificum,
gypsophila, leucanthemum, nepeta, physostegia, polemonium, potentilla, primula, Saponaria
officinalis, Saxifraga ×urbium, scabiosa, Tanacetum parthenium, thalictrum, tradescantia,
veronica, and viola.
17
In this shade border, repetition of one kind of variegation ties together a group of plants. The creamy varie-
gation on the foreground plants of Polygonatum ×hybridum ‘Striatum’ is repeated in the shrubs Philadelphus
coronarius ‘Variegatus’ and Cornus kousa ‘Snowboy’. The composition is enriched by Hydrangea macrophylla, the
foliage of Hosta ‘Halcyon’, and astilbe in bloom, on the right.
THE LATE SUMMER BORDER

This group includes late-flowering perennials, most of tall stature and many of which are in
the daisy family: agapanthus, aster, chelone, cimicifuga, echinacea, echinops, eryngium, eupato-
rium, filipendula, helenium, helianthus, heliopsis, kniphofia, ligularia, lobelia, miscanthus and
other grasses, monarda, penstemon, persicaria, Phlox paniculata, phygelius, rudbeckia, salvia
(taller forms), solidago, and ×solidaster. Of all these, only the asters should be pinched back in
the Pacific Northwest.
THE AUTUMN BORDER

This group includes late asters, chrysanthemum, hardy fuchsias, Helianthus salicifolius, H. maxi-
miliani, Miscanthus sinensis cultivars, Persicaria microcephala, Salvia guaranitica, S. uliginosa,
Sedum spectabile and hybrids, and schizostylus.
THE SHADE BORDER AND THE WOODLAND GARDEN

Plants that do best in part shade (half a day) with an emphasis on foliage: arisaema, arum,
asarum, astilbe, brunnera, darmera, Dicentra eximia, D. formosa, disporum, Gentiana asclepi-
adea, Helleborus orientalis, heuchera, ×heucherella, hosta, kirengeshoma, paris, peltoboykinia,
podophyllum, polygonatum, pulmonaria, rodgersia, smilacina, stylophorum, tolmiea, tricyrtis,
trillium, uvularia, and viola.

Plants for Special Gardens 19
Summer hits its stride in this home border using the best of the immense herbaceous summer perennials:
Phlox paniculata just barely coming into flower, Penstemon digitalis ‘Husker Red’, and Phygelius ×rectus on the
left. A large clump of Lilium ‘Tiger Babies’ is flanked on the right by Lavatera olbia and Campanula lactiflora.
Even the foreground plants, Artemisia ludoviciana and Dictamnus albus var. purpureus, are large in scale.
THE BACK OF THE BORDER, THE ALLEY, AND TOO TALL FOR WORDS
Aconitum ‘Spark’s Variety’, alcea, the taller asters, boltonia, Eupatorium cannabinum, E. purpu-
reum, fallopia, ferula, galega, Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’, H. maximiliani, macleaya, Phytolacca
americana, rheum (in flower), Rumex hydrolapathum, silphium, Thalictrum flavum subsp.
glaucum, T. lucidum, verbascum, and vernonia.
THE MEADOW GARDEN

Plants that look stunning with a forest or evergreen background in an open sunny to part shade
location are actaea, amsonia, Anaphalis triplinervis, the taller astilbes, cimicifuga, digitalis,
disporum, hesperis, kirengeshoma, patrinia, polygonatum, rodgersia, smilacina, and thalictrum.

Hot borders have become very popular, and flowers with such warm hues are best sited in full sun. In the
background, Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea and its selections ‘Helmond Pillar’ (left) and ‘Rose Glow’ (right)
offset the intensity of Phygelius ×rectus ‘Devil’s Tears’ and Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’; the green foliage of Iris
sibirica and crocosmia is the perfect complement. Planted to great effect in the foreground are Heuchera cylin-
drica ‘Greenfinch’ and in the upper right, Delphinium ‘Alice Artindale’, a grand old double.
001_032_TP.indd 20
MAINTENANCE GUIDELINES
Although the bulk of this book will tell how to maintain moderately fertile, well-drained, humus-rich, moist, and
specific herbaceous perennials, we have some general moisture-retentive soil. Making good garden soil should
maintenance observations to pass along first. In the A-to- be the first thing on your list, as it’s the foundation for
Z, where we get specific, the sections are arranged roughly all the plants we long to grow. The first two words on
in the order in which you would deal with your garden any improvement list should be compost and manure.
plants, from purchase to putting to bed for the winter Organic material promotes soil structure and sets the
(“propagation” is an ongoing process, depending on the scene for healthy plants.
ripening of seed, weather, and so forth, so that follows We recommend thorough preparation of your site
“management”; next up is “pests and diseases”—a never- before planting. This may require lots of digging and
ending battle in time . . .). Each genus entry will refer to the addition of amendments. After the garden has been
these techniques or concerns briefly. This section ampli- prepared and planted, it will then require an annual
fies what we say in shorthand for the rest of the book, and application of manure or compost to keep the soil healthy
can be used to check up on what to do and most impor- and your garden weed-free.
tantly, how. We hope this simple, concise, and clear set of If your soil passes the reasonable texture test (squeeze
guidelines will ensure as much success as possible—they a handful, open your palm, and if the lump falls apart, the
work quite well for us. soil is passable), you only need to add greensand, rock
phosphate, and an all-purpose organic fertilizer. Then till
to about eight inches to mix it all together and further
SOIL AND AMENDMENTS
loosen your topsoil (or dig it in yourself ).
Soils (which figure strongly under “preferred condi- Larger plants with deeper roots can be planted in areas
tions” in the A-to-Z) vary throughout the country. In the prepared in this manner with the soil mixed in the hole,
Pacific Northwest, for example, we have a range of soil 1:1 with the subsoil. Don’t plant in areas where the subsoil
conditions: sandy loam, loam, clay, rocky clay, and varia- does not drain. Water that remains in a test hole eighteen
tions thereof. Understanding what your soil structure is, inches deep for more than twenty-four hours indicates a
assessing your site and your plant requirements, will save drainage problem.
you a lot of moving and rearranging down the line. If you
know what deficiencies your garden soil has, you will
EXPOSURE
be able to make the correct improvements and plan and
plant accordingly. First, there is light. By sun, we mean full, all-day sun.
That said, most of us have never sent for a soil anal- That is, the south side of a house and any location fully
ysis, and we don’t really know what the pH of our garden exposed to the south. Some areas with a lot of reflected
is. But we do know that the soil here is generally more heat from walls or pavement will qualify even if not in
acidic, and most of our plants want the Holy Five: a sun all day.
21
Tarting-up a hot border with short-lived but sweet perennials (left to right), Geranium pratense, Salvia nemorosa,
dwarf bedding dahlias, Dianthus barbatus, Knautia macedonica, and Lychnis chalcedonica. The background is
filled in with more permanent plantings of Cornus controversa ‘Variegata’, Fuchsia magellanica, Berberis thun-
bergii, Trochodendron aralioides, and a good dark-foliaged red rose. Design by Rick Kyper.
Part sun can mean afternoon sun (the warmer areas be able to take more sun than they are listed for. There
of your garden with sun after eleven in the morning) will also occasionally be notes to protect plants from
or morning sun, that is, sun until eleven o’clock in the wind, drying and otherwise (winter wind from the north
morning (even though these areas can have as much sun is our coldest weather pattern). The north side of fences
as afternoon sun, they will still be cooler). and buildings will be death to tender perennials. Also be
Part shade means dappled sun in summer, or only aware of wind that funnels between houses.
late afternoon or early morning sun. In our climate zone, Consider too that some areas are exposed to the east in
this is the best place for natives from the eastern part of winter, when a frozen morning on sunny days can cause
the United States, which need the heat as much as the damage. Also look for pockets in the garden that will hold
shade. Another way to think of part shade is spring sun, cold air. You can improve these with a frost drain: cold air
summer shade. behaves like a liquid and will flow down hill.
Shade means areas with no sun in summer. They may
get winter sun if shaded by deciduous trees or shrubs
PLANTING
during the growing season.
With these four light recommendations, our hope is Most perennials should be planted at crown level with
that plants will get the right location the first time. In the the roots in the ground and the stem and leaf struc-
Pacific Northwest, many shade and part shade plants will tures above soil level. The precise term for this is crown
001_032_TP.indd 22
specific, and for certain plants (strawberries, for instance) stores can have a lot of bark or sawdust in them. We also
this procedure must be followed. If an entry in the A-to- have (but usually in bulk only) sawdust mixed with urea
Z doesn’t have any specific planting instructions, this is and composted to a nice dark brown. We also drink a lot of
the default advice! Peonies, on the other hand, do rate coffee here, so coffee hulls are available. Out and about in
special planting instructions; if planted too deep, they the rural areas or at feed stores, we can find hay or straw.
will not flower; the tips of the pointed red pips should be Even if we don’t make compost per se, we can make leaf
visible by midwinter. You can mulch around peonies, but mold by shredding and piling leaves and allowing them to
not over the crown. Over time this would make them too age. In short, if you have plenty of deciduous trees around,
deep in the mulch and they would not bloom. as well as green garden waste, you have the means for
Perennials that form a green winter crown are not as making your own compost at home.
fussy as peonies but still should not be heavily mulched. A Generally speaking, an annual mulch of manure or
lightweight covering of maple or oak leaves or evergreen compost works well for the mixed herbaceous border.
branches will offer some winter protection but needs to The best time for application is from late fall until late
be removed by late winter. winter because most of the plants have been cut back,
Some plants can be mulched over heavily each year and the garden is at its most open and accessible. This
with no adverse effects: acanthus, aconitum, arisaema, allows you to find places for your feet and readily avoid
arum, crocosmia, dicentra, hemerocallis, hosta, lysima- manuring over the crowns of the plants. The freezing
chia, macleaya, paris, phytolacca, pinellia, polygonatum, and thawing and rain help break down the mulch, begin-
smilacina, trillium, zantedeschia, and all bulbs and ning the process whereby it becomes a part of the soil
tuberous-rooted plants. itself. Usually two to four inches is plenty. Never mulch
Herbaceous perennials that form a crown composed against the trunks of shrubs or trees, but get close.
of a cluster of tiny rosettes—such as anthemis, aquilegia This blanket of mulch will suppress winter weeds and
(often solitary rosettes), chaerophyllum, chrysanthemum, provide a bit of insulation.
lobelia, meconopsis, and sedum—should be planted and Years of experience have taught us to always keep a
maintained with these at the surface level, if not slightly pile of mulch around. In summer as we clean up leaves or
above. Sedums benefit from the latter a great deal. as spring ephemerals go dormant, bare ground becomes
Evergreen perennials such as dianthus, dierama, visible and we apply supplemental mulch as needed. In
heuchera, ×heucherella, Stachys byzantina, tellima, and the fall, when we plant bulbs, we immediately mulch over
tiarella should never have their foliage buried at planting them, and then we remember where they are and where
time or be mulched over. else we can plant.
If you use uncomposted barks, either leave them on
the surface or, if you dig them into the soil, add some
MULCHING nitrogen (manure, blood meal, ammonium nitrate) to
help the process of decomposition. Bark incorporated
The most important thing you can do for your garden
into soil will take nitrogen out naturally in order to break
is an annual application of mulch. Mulch does several
down, and your plants will have to compete with the bark
things for a garden: it adds organic matter, conditions the
for available nitrogen.
soil, suppresses weeds, conserves moisture, and provides
We have found that a fall/winter application of dairy
winter protection.
cow manure (our preferred mulch) will, by the following
There are a number of choices of material to use for
fall, have decomposed from four inches down to one inch,
mulch, and where you live plus what kind of gardening
just in time for a new application.
you are doing will affect your choices. We have lots of
bark here, small, medium, and large; we have composted
bark in bags, and composted bark with dairy cow manure
COMPOST
and chicken manure (“chicken and chips”). Horse manure
and bark is another combination, and there’s even mush- The best product for your garden—either as a soil amend-
room compost; a city program where clean green yard ment, to fill holes or low spots where plants have been
waste from the county is made into mulch and sold to the removed, or as a mulch—is homemade compost. You can
public; and last but not least, Zoo Doo, from the herbi- produce good useable compost in six months by layering
vores at our local zoo. The bagged manures from local a good-sized bin (three square feet or more) with the
You can use red and pink together, especially en masse. Here, toned down with a creamy orange Achillea
‘Hoffnung’, are Crocosmia ×crocosmiiflora ‘Emberglow’ and a bright pink Buddleja davidii; B. d. ‘Harlequin’ and
B. d. ‘Black Knight’ fill the background, with a wisp of Canna indica, also in pale orange.
following material, about four to six inches for each layer but the product is just as good. You can also speed up
(except the soil, which is two to three inches). the process a bit with a commercial “compost maker” or
bacteria (summer only). The presence of soil is impor-
1) Soil from the garden or last year’s compost.
tant, as it inoculates your pile with bacteria and microor-
2) Green plant parts, leaves, or stems (nothing from ganisms, which do all the work. Compost piles should be
conifers or evergreen shrubs). watered in summer.
Do not compost the following material. Dispose of
3) Autumn leaves (except for walnut and liquidambar).
them some other way.
4) Old potting soil (even from houseplants).
1) Peony and lily leaves and stems (too much potential
5) Worm castings from your worm bin. disease).
6) Choppings—leaves and stems of perennials and 2) Grass clippings if not well mixed (makes compost too
annuals cut into four- to six-inch lengths. gooey and dense).
Each layer can be chopped in the bin before the soil 3) Perennial grasses (take too long to compost).
layer is added. This will speed up the process. If you
4) Iris foliage (too long to compost and has disease
turn these layers, your compost will form more quickly,
problems).
but as this is very difficult with materials from peren-
nial gardens, go for the passive method—it takes longer, 5) Hellebore and tulip foliage (disease).
06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G5J No_5

High tide in the garden with waves of summer color rolling down the slope. The top wave has Rudbeckia lacin-
iata ‘Herbstsonne’, Delphinium elatum, and Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’. In the central billows are R. fulgida
var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’, Patrinia scabiosifolia ‘Nagoya’, and Agapanthus ‘Prolific Blue’. In the foreground
are Phygelius ×rectus ‘Salmon Leap’, Hypericum ×inodorum ‘Elstead’ in fruit and a variegated hypericum, and
Berberis thunbergii f. atropurpurea ‘Golden Ring’.
FERTILIZING General overall fertilizing of perennials should be

with an all-purpose type of granular fertilizer, organic
A well-established perennial garden needs no additional
or not. You can also use vegetable fertilizer, which is
fertilizing if it is mulched with compost (homemade) or
usually a similar balance of N-P-K (nitrogen, phos-
manure. Keep in mind, you are feeding the soil as well as
phorus, potassium) like 5-10-10 or 4-8-8. This should be
the plants. A soil with a loose texture and lots of organic
done in early spring.
matter will produce a better garden than heavy applica-
Slow-release fertilizers can be used, but the expensive
tions of commercial fertilizers. The one exception to this
encapsulated ones need to be incorporated into the soil to
rule: spring bulbs should be fed in early spring, when
work best. If granular or encapsulated products are used
the narcissus bulbs are up about one and a half to two
on the surface, they can flush all at once in hot weather;
inches tall; this will help them produce a good bulb for
early, cooler-season applications are better.
the following year.
New plants can be fertilized at planting time. A small
amount of a transplanter, an all-purpose plant food, or
WATERING
a similar organic plant food mixed in the planting hole
will increase survivability and promote a good “take” that If you don’t want to stake your perennials, don’t overhead
first year. water. When flowers get laden with water and weighed
001_032_TP.indd 25 1/10/07 12:57:11 PM

down, plants flop. Install a leaky pipe system like Aqua- plants (“planting” will tell how far above the high-water
pore or Netafin, and keep water off the foliage and flowers. mark they should be): acorus, darmera, gunnera, hout-
This will also reduce disease. tuynia, Primula beesiana, P. ×bulleesiana, P. bulleyana,
A good heavy application, once a week, of an inch of P. japonica, trollius.
water is usually sufficient, except for newly planted areas,
where watering individual plants is still necessary until
PINCHING
well established. Perennials do very well with a heavily
water-retentive soil under the more prepared humus- This is the term for the practice of removing the tip growth
rich soil in your planting beds. on each stem of an herbaceous plant. The purpose is to
If you can, you should always water in the morning, so keep the plant more compact so that staking will not be
your foliage can go through the night as dry as possible. required and so that the plant will “fit” its allotted space.
A loose mulch that acts as insulation will conserve water This practice is not a universal one—some plants respond
and keep your soil moist and reduce water loss by evapo- well, others don’t, and it is important to know who likes
ration from the soil surface through capillary action. what before pinching back or pinching out. Examples of
a positive outcome would be chrysanthemum, aster, and
boltonia; plants that do not respond well to this treatment
THE DRY-GARDEN, DROUGHT-TOLERANT MYTH
are sedum, Campanula lactiflora, and Phlox paniculata.
Some perennials can take less watering once established What is less than satisfactory is the effect on the flower
but will need to be watered or watched now and then heads themselves, which are usually much smaller than
(every seven to ten days). The bulk of good garden plants they would be if left alone. Pinching changes the character
come from areas that receive summer rain—the United of the inflorescences. Often a short, cool summer does not
States east of the Mississippi, wetter areas of Europe, give enough time for a good-sized flower head to form.
China, and New Zealand. Nothing looks worse than a
perennial border in England in a severe drought year; they
STAKING
are very strict on watering, and most gardens have little
supplemental water and rarely an irrigation system. Our This is the process of propping up plants that have a
climate is unusual in that we can have very dry (but not tendency to fall over, flop, or splay. Plants should be
hot) summers and very wet falls, winters, and springs. staked in early spring as they emerge from dormancy for
In a dry year, let your lawn fend for itself, and save your two reasons: you can get into the garden to do it; and it
water for the perennials and shrubs. Lawns usually come is much better to do it in advance—if you wait until the
back but a bone-dry delphinium is a dead delphinium. need is obvious, it is usually too late to do it well. Staking
Some plants that can be grown in drier soil once should be as unobtrusive as possible once the plants have
established are adenophora, allium, anaphalis, artemisia, grown up into the supports.
camassia, centranthus, delosperma, dierama, euphorbia With many herbaceous plants, support is lent by what
(most of them), ferula (but it will be shorter), glau- we call pea sticks. These are bits of brushy wood with
cium, kniphofia (fleshy roots and deep rooting), Papaver sturdy, thin twigs—hazelnut, birch, or maple twigs, for
atlanticum, P. orientale (usually goes summer dormant), example—with their single, broader stem end forced into
perovskia, romneya, salvia (some), sedum, tellima, the ground around the plants they’re meant to support.
tolmiea, tradescantia (fleshy roots and a large root Taller plants like delphinium will need straighter, taller
system), Viola adunca, V. labradorica, and vancouveria. supports and some tying-in. Paeonia and Helleborus
argutifolius are examples of plants that can benefit from
those circular wire hoops (which you’ve put in early, for
WET FEET
them to grow up through).
A few perennials can take wet feet most of the time,
although the winter water level cannot rise above the
GROOMING
level of the crown. These plants can be used at the edge
of a stream, pond, or lake if planted above the high-water Herbaceous plants need grooming throughout the year.
mark. If they wish to be closer, most will grow in that Many have their flower stems completely removed after
direction. Iris ensata, I. laevigata, and I. pseudacorus will flowering. In some cases, this will result in rebloom,
grow in water. See the A-to-Z for specifics about these depending on the type of plant. Some plants simply
Scrim plants, the delicious Helianthus salicifolius (willow-leaved sunflower) and Verbena bonariensis, fronting a
mass of Cortaderia selloana ‘Sunstripe’ backed by Sambucus nigra ‘Guincho Purple’ and a bit of Arundo donax
(top right).
have the spent flowers removed to the next leaf or pair also reduces self-sowing. Be sure to water well any plant
of leaves, and this stimulates further flower production you subject to this extreme treatment.
in response to this removal of any possible seed produc- Many plants have the occasional bad-looking leaf or
tion. If you are interested in saving seed, you can select two; just remove as needed. The plants will usually show
a couple of stems that look really good to leave for seed you what to do.
production. If you like the appearance of the seedheads,
you can leave them until you want to remove them; the
DEADHEADING
latest they should remain is into the following spring,
when growth recommences. Deadheading is a lot like grooming but specific to the
Other grooming, carried out as needed, involves flower heads. Again it is important to know whether and
removing dying, damaged, or diseased foliage as it occurs. when to do this. For example, most peonies benefit from
Daylilies often need their bad leaves removed—in this case, having their spent flowers removed—they look better,
it’s leaf by leaf. There are more serious kinds of grooming and it reduces the chance of disease forming on the old
as well. For example, Alchemilla mollis is groomed (cut) to petals and jumping to the leaves. A few peonies, however,
the ground after all the flowers turn brown. All the leaves have beautiful seedheads, and some can be seed-grown.
and flower stems are removed. The plant will releaf within You can either admire for a while, before deadheading,
a couple of weeks with a heavy watering; the result is a or leave any species to form seeds (hybrid peonies rarely
handsome plant for the rest of the season. This process form seed).

Delphiniums are often deadheaded to the leaves below WINTER CARE

the flower structure, but we now know that the plants
Put your garden to bed for the long dormancy of winter.
will be more robust if you forgo the funny little second
It is best to let your perennials go fully dormant before
flowers and just cut them to the ground after flowering.
cutting them back for winter. Allow the iris to turn
You may in fact get a great reboom in late summer or fall.
yellow and nut-brown, and let your peonies go through
Do not do this to young plants.
their nice reds, oranges, and golds. Cut lilies back after all
Never deadhead by simply removing the flowers and
leaves have turned; your cut should be at a sharp angle so
leaving the stems. This looks dreadful, and as the flower
some water will run off. Do not compost peonies and lily
stems die back, the plant will either look even worse
leaves—too much disease present.
or may become diseased along the stem (pansies, for
Plants with a visible winter crown like sedums and
example, are prone to this).
asters can be cut close and do not get covered with mulch.
Hostas and daylilies can be cut quite close and covered
CUTTING BACK with mulch. If you need to walk in your beds, leave a few
stems up high enough so your plants show above the
A specific form of grooming, this is the process of taking
mulch. Try not to step on the crown of any plant.
plants nearly to the ground. There are several occasions
Clean up your crowns, and check for slugs and weeds
where this might be the appropriate course of action.
in the center of the clump or just at the edge, hiding under
1) Many herbaceous plants are cut back during the fall foliage. Don’t worry about accidentally removing some soil
and winter months. Usually this is based on both the or mulch at this point, as this is the best time to put fresh
appearance of the plants and the gardener’s need for mulch on. Plant your bulbs as you clean up so they can
access. Especially following the first serious frost, a have a good mulch too. Put the waste in your compost, and
lot of plants begin to go into dormancy, and the upper layer with leaves, soil, and chopped green stems.
growth deteriorates—sometimes overnight. Some Many perennials and grasses can be left for winter
plants will have a basal structure that is visible and interest, but this can be a bit messy. You’ll need to decide
green below the decaying stems. If so, cut only to this what is best for your garden.
new growth, leaving an inch or two of old stem to mark
1) Perennials that have good fall color but no strong,
the place where the plant is and to protect it from your
upright stems (hostas and daylilies) should be
big feet. Other plants will have nothing visible except
cleaned up first and checked for slugs, which can still
their dead stems, and these should also be cut down to
do a lot of damage throughout the winter.
one to two inches, for the same reasons.
2) If protected, leave the plant up for the chance of hoar-
2) Many plants are dormant at times other than autumn.
frost and a stunningly beautiful, if fleeting effect.
Spring bloomers can go dormant by summer; some
don’t leave a trace, and others need a bit of cutting 3) If windy, we recommend cutting grasses down just
back. It will be obvious. before they begin to fall apart.
3) Some perennials should not be cut back until spring. 4) Woody and semi-woody flower stems can be left until
Maybe they’re valuable for interest in the winter they break off easily (astilbe, eryngium, rudbeckia).
garden, or because they protect their crowns during
This is the time to put limestone chips (marble chips)
the cold months. Another reason you might wait is to
on the crowns of your hellebores and peonies. These
provide food and shelter to the other garden dwellers.
chips are normally used for terrazzo floors. They slough
Plants to leave up might include helianthus, foenic-
molecules constantly and will change the pH around and
ulum, rudbeckia, and phytolacca.
on the crown they cover, but not the overall pH of the
soil. This slightly less acid “mulch” will interfere with
the overwintering of the botrytis organisms, so the plants
SHEARING
don’t pick up this disease when emerging in the spring.
Shearing is for lambs and lavender. This is not an appro- This technique also makes the crowns easy to locate
priate term for the care of most herbaceous plants since when mulching as both of these plants should not be
we do not use shears on them. mulched over.
In this single color scheme, Phlox paniculata ‘Bright Eyes’ is framed by a mass of centaureas in the foreground
and backed by Viburnum carlesii and Macleaya cordata.
WINTER MULCH it from freezing. Do not use hemlock, as it will just drop
its needles and you’ll have a mess to clean up. We even cut
In addition to normal mulching, some plants will benefit
up our holiday trees (afterward) and use those boughs in
from specific winter mulches. If you are planning to plant
the garden.
a new area in spring that is currently either in lawn or
Some plants benefit from a mulch of their own big
weeds, you can reduce your work by mowing or weeding
leaves in winter for cold protection, for instance, Gunnera
the area (weedwhacker, blow torch, goats) and then
manicata and hedychium. Cut off leaves in fall and cover
covering it with thick piles of newspaper, overlapping
the plants for the winter; remove them in spring, as the
for complete coverage. Then apply ten to twelve inches
buds swell and weather warms up.
of straw, hay, manure, or leaves. If using leaves, top-dress
Much of the mulching material for winter can be
with compost or something heavy enough to keep the
incorporated in the soil if sufficiently decomposed, or it
leaves in place. By spring you should be able to turn in the
can be chopped up and added to the compost heap come
mulch and plant without having to remove the lawn, as it
spring. The exception would be the conifer branches,
will be dead and the paper will have rotted away.
which should be disposed of in another manner.
Another winter mulch would be the application of fir
boughs or other coniferous blow-downs or pruning as
an insulation over tender plants; newly planted and not-
CUT FLOWERS
established plants; plants that might frost-heave in your
garden; and plants you didn’t get planted (still in their We all know that the best time to cut flowers for arranging
containers). This blanket of covering keeps things under is early in the morning. That said, do it when you can, and

avoid the hottest part of the day. The further you can get forms very large, dense clumps; a sharp axe may be the
from noon, in either direction, the better. only way to split it up. Others are tap-rooted (aquilegia,
Flowers should immediately be placed in water as you eryngium), and another means of propagation may be the
cut them. This is not always practical but get them in best, in this case by seed.
water as soon as possible. The best florists condition cut Seed collection in perennial gardens occurs throughout
flowers overnight by immersing them up to their necks, the summer into fall. Many of our common plants will
with the flowers above the tepid water; they arrange come true from seed, especially the species. Some culti-
the stems the following day. If any cut stem spends time vars, such as Eupatorium purpureum subsp. maculatum
between being cut and being in water, recut the stems ‘Gateway’ and Tanacetum parthenium ‘Aureum’, can also
before conditioning. be grown from seed.
Some plants have milky or liquid saps that run out the Collect seed when capsules are open or have turned
cut end. These (poppies, macleaya, euphorbia) and those brown, black, or tan. Collect it in open paper bags and
plants with hairy stems should be singed with a match or dry as quickly as possible—the back seat of a car is the
other flame before going into water. If you do not do this, perfect location. Never collect seed on a wet day, as they
they won’t be able to draw water up and will go limp in are often too soggy to dry before mildew sets in. Remove
the vase. as much chaff as possible before storing in paper enve-
Hellebores are a special case. Cut them, then take a pin lopes (never plastic). Long-term storage of envelopes of
or the like and poke holes up and down the stems. Fill seeds (except for tropical and subtropical plants) can be
a sink or tub with water, and float the hellebores in it in sealed plastic boxes in your refrigerator. Do not open
overnight. Arrange the next day, and you’ll have two these chilled boxes until they reach room temperature
weeks of flowers. (to avoid condensation on the seeds).
Plants with woody stems should be cut at an angle, If you want to try to grow from seed, try mail order
split at the bottom with your pruners, and hammered or look for local groups that offer seed exchanges for
(smashed) at the base before putting in water. nominal cost like the Northwest Perennial Alliance or the
There are some good floral products to add to the Hardy Plant Society of Oregon. Often this is the only way
water that will prolong the vase life of flowers. Change to find rare perennials like Delphinium elatum or Lath-
the water every few days to help keep the flowers as long yrus vernus. Also, look for annuals and biennials to seed
as possible. about in your garden.
PROPAGATION PESTS
As gardeners most of us are involved in some method Slugs are a most problematic pest. Add their introduced
of plant propagation. If you are seriously interested in shelled cousins, the snails, and you have in many places
collecting seed or taking cuttings, we recommend that you of our country a year-round problem. Only in the hottest
do further reading on these subjects; there are good books part of August can we be fairly certain of no slug activity,
that cover this in great detail. Division, however, is a tech- unless it rains. There are several kinds of slugs: little
nique that benefits many plants, whether you are planning gray ones that feed all winter and most of the spring; the
on having additional plants or simply dividing a congested bigger brown slugs that hibernate in winter if it’s cold
one, so your plant will bloom better and look better. We but otherwise seem to eat all year; and the native banana
have noted the best time to divide, if appropriate, for each slugs (these are okay—don’t kill them, in other words). If
individual plant throughout the A-to-Z. The standard rules you find slug eggs—little translucent balls, usually found
are these: plants that bloom in spring and early summer in dark places—you could squish them or just uncover
are divided in autumn; plants that bloom in late summer them. We use two different baits: iron-based pelletized
and autumn are divided in the spring. But some plants, safe baits, which we broadcast throughout the year (read
such as astrantia or plantago, can be divided in spring or the instructions on the container, it doesn’t take much);
autumn without any noticeable set back. Pulmonaria can and the liquid bait (metaldehyde) with which you can
be divided in early spring at flowering time. draw dotted lines around vulnerable plants. There is also
Some of the perennials that really benefit from division a pelletized version of the liquid bait; both are toxic, so
also have features that make it a challenge. Iris sibirica should be used with care. It’s actually possible to put the
In the fall border, a mixed array of asters is balanced by a soft clump of dwarf Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln’
and ‘Pat’s Dream’ fuchsia. At top, a sprinkling of the bright orange hips of Rosa rubiginosa (top) gives a taste
of the winter to come.
liquid bait in an open-sided container in the garden, and flies will have moved through their life cycle and will
then only slugs and snails will have access to it. This keeps attack a second time.
it off the soil and away from other life forms. Whenever We have trouble with both the larval and adult forms of
it is damp and especially after heavy rains, baits have to root weevils. The larvae (white to beige C-shaped grubs)
be reapplied. live in the ground and dine on the roots of bergenia,
Cutworms are another pesky issue. Two remedies: corydalis (except C. lutea and C. ochroleuca), heuchera,
pick them out and squash them (they are often in the ×heucherella, mukdenia, primula (P. polyanthus and
crowns of larger-leaved plants and will fall to the ground P. vulgaris types), saxifrage, tellima, tiarella, tolmiea, and
if they sense your presence); or make birds welcome in sedum, especially plants in containers, over the winter.
your garden (some will eat the cutworms). Cutworms do If you notice one of these plants looking limp and dull,
an enormous amount of damage to foliage, leaving plants lift it, and you will likely find no roots and half a dozen
unsightly for the entire growing season. or more grubs. The adults prey principally on rhododen-
Sawfly larvae eat columbine foliage among other drons and other ericaceous plants and are night feeders
things. They lie along the edges of the leaves and munch above ground; the adult damage is notching (noshing) on
their way to the midribs. If you don’t catch them early the edges of the leaves. The safest control is to go out at
you will have skeletonized leaves. If this happens, cut the night with a flashlight and drop them in a can of alcohol.
columbine to the ground and water it well; it will almost Beneficial nematodes can be applied to the soil to kill the
always come right back. Unfortunately, sometimes saw- weevil grubs—a slow but sure solution.

Aphids—or, to English gardeners, plant lice. A creepy warm and sunny location in soil on the dry side, so
but apt common name. There are all kinds of aphids, in there is less winter wet and cold feet. Most American
an array of colors. Many are specific pests on specific prairie plants fall in this category—achillea, ascle-
plants. Usually they are worst when a plant is either in pias, Aster ×frikartii, callirhoe, echinacea, lupinus,
stress or rapidly growing new foliage in spring. The silphium, Tanacetum coccineum, and the verbascums
remedies range from squishing them to blasting them off with flower color other than white or yellow.
with a forceful spray of water. You can help by relieving
the stress on the plant (more food, more water?), making 2) Some grow too well, exhausting themselves in one to
the plant less vulnerable. Birds who eat insects will clean three years (and often like a leaner soil). Examples
up a lot of aphids given half a chance. Ladybug larvae eat are anthemis, centranthus, Coreopsis grandiflora,
lots of them, too. You could, of course, spray something erysimum, gaura, nepeta, Oenothera versicolor ‘Sunset
like insecticidal soap, but then there would be little for Boulevard’, and penstemon.
the birds to eat and you’d kill the ladybugs, too. So don’t,
3) Some tender perennials will not survive an exception-
is our advice.
ally cold winter: Agapanthus africanus (and cultivars
with A. africanus genes), agastache (except A. foenic-
SHORT-LIVED PERENNIALS ulum), begonia, canna, convolvulus, cosmos, delo-
sperma, diascia (most), Geranium ×riversleaianum,
Even perennials, alas, may be short-lived for several
glaucium, origanum (some), Physalis peruviana, salvia
reasons, and not just because they’ve been decimated by
(except S. nemorosa, S. ×superba, S. ×sylvestris, and
slugs or root weevils.
S. uliginosa), and zantedeschia (except Z. aethiopica,
1) Some do not get enough heat. Try to place them in a Z. albomaculata, and Z. elliottiana).
Perennials
A-to-Z
Plant your garden for backlighting, it’s brief and it’s lovely. Here, sunlight streams into Eupatorium purpureum
subsp. maculatum ‘Gateway’ and Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’, and strikes the top of Pleioblastus viridistriatus f. variegatus.

34 Acaena
ACAENA Rosaceae
A compact, creeping, and usually evergreen perennial

genus valued for its mat-forming foliage and colorful round
seedheads. The flowers are insignificant, but the seedheads,
which form soft burrs, are wonderful. The burrs appear
spiny, prickly, and threatening but are actually soft to the
touch, although they may be a nuisance and attach them-
selves to pets or socks (hence the common name northwest
sock-burr). The small bluish gray to copper-colored leaves
grow on prostrate stems, which root where they touch the
soil. Typically, plants grow clustered together, forming large
mats, and will grow in virtually any soil except one that is
heavy and wet. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek akaina (“thorn,”

“spine”).
Common Name: Sheepsburr, New Zealand burr, redspine
sheep’s burr.
Origin: New Zealand, southeastern Australia.
Preferred Conditions: Any average to poor, well-drained
Acaena microphylla. soil. Plants are drought tolerant once established.
Light: Sun to part shade.
Management: You can cut plants back in autumn (to control spread) and remove dead, spent
flower heads and stems, but this is optional, not necessary. When the mats become bare and
open, remove the central portions in spring or fall; lift and replant from the fuller sections.
Propagation: Division or cuttings and seed.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew.
Companions: Sedges, Plantago major ‘Rubrifolia’, and paving stones.
Notes: Use acaena to knit borders and paths together—a gray-green to bronze carpet for the
edges of your garden.
USDA
Species and Height/ Flowers
Hardiness Foliage Comments
Cultivars Spread (bloom time)
Zone
caesiiglauca 2–4in × 2ft 6–8 Reddish burrs (M) Pinnate, silky bluish Silver-leafed New
gray Zealand burr
inermis 2–3in × 2ft+ 6–8 Brown-red burrs (M) Pinnate, bronze-green
microphylla 2–4in × 2ft 6–8 Copper-reddish burrs Small, pinnate, coppery- Vigorous, RHS
(M) bronzy green Award
m. ‘Kupferteppich’ 1½–3in × 6–8 Bright red burrs (M) Pinnate, bronze to Smallest in stature
(syn. ‘Copper 2ft+ red-brown
Carpet’)
saccaticupula ‘Blue 3–4in × 2ft+ 6–8 Dark brownish red Pinnate, blue-gray Vigorous, foliage is
Haze’ burrs (M) edged in bronze, reddish larger than
pink stems A. microphylla

Acanthus 35
ACANTHUS Acanthaceae
We fear that we cannot be objective in our description of

these plants, having fought them for years. They are fast
colonizers of anything that looks like earth, from shiny
blue clay to glacial till (Dan Hinkley’s Heronswood catalog
suggested “disgustingly bad soil”). Graham Stuart Thomas
(1990) describes acanthus as “statuesque plants of clas-
sical dignity,” but this is not so in winter after a hard frost,
when they can look like wilted lettuce rescued from the
back of the refrigerator. Fear not, they will arise as good as
new the next day. Let us be fair, A. spinosus and A. mollis
do look handsome for many months, either standing alone
as majestic specimens or filling large spaces with their big,
deeply divided arching leaves and spiky flowers. Acanthus
mollis inspired a favorite decoration in classical sculpture,
the Corinthian column capital.
All acanthus are easily propagated from root cuttings,
even unintentionally. Removal is usually unsuccessful, espe-
cially from rockeries. If you get close up and look inside the
flower, you will see a tiny green frog, armed with a vicious
spine, sitting there looking out at you. So, go ahead, I dare
you to plant one. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek akanthos (“thorn,”

“prickle”).
Common Name: Bear’s breeches.
Origin: Asia, Africa, southern Europe. Acanthus mollis ‘Hollard’s Gold’.
Preferred Conditions: Tolerant of most any well-drained,
fertile soil. Somewhat drought tolerant once established.
Light: Sun to part shade. Will grow in shade but flowers better in sun.
USDA
Zone
caroli-alexandri 1ft × 2ft 7–9 White and pink (M) Finely divided, green Very floriferous
hungaricus 2½–3ft × 3ft 6–9 White to pale pink with Deeply divided, glossy Very hardy, runs
(syn. balcanicus, purple bracts (M) olive-green somewhat
longifolius)
mollis 3–5ft × 4ft 7–9 White with purplish Glossy dark green, May need winter
bracts (M) deeply cut protection, semi-
evergreen in mild
winters
m. ‘Hollard’s Gold’ 3ft × 4ft 7–9 Smoky purple (M) Glossy golden green, Part shade to sun,
lobed may need winter
protection, semi-
evergreen in mild
winters

36 Achillea
USDA
Zone
m. Latifolius Group 3–4ft × 3ft 7–9 White with purplish Rounded, lobed, veined, More floriferous than
bracts (M) dark green the species; runs
severely, may need
winter protection,
semi-evergreen in
mild winters
spinosus 4–5ft × 2ft+ 5–9 Pink and white with Glossy dark green, Runs severely, very
purple hood and gray- deeply divided, spiny hardy
green bracts (M)
s. Spinosissimus 3–4ft × 2ft 6–9 Muted purples, pinks, Long, narrow, more Runs slowly, very
Group and greens (M) finely divided, with hardy
silvery points, very spiny
and sharp
Management: Bait for slugs, especially with the new young growth. Proper watering in dry
weather may help prevent mildew. Protect plants by mulching in the first winter or until
thoroughly established. Top-dress with organic material, preferably in late fall. Declining
foliage can be cut back at any time. Digging around plants can be problematic, as cut roots
may turn into new plants.
Propagation: Division in late spring; two- to three-inch root cuttings in late winter.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, mildew.
Companions: Large-scale grasses, Geranium psilostemon, Iris pseudacorus, aconitum, cars.
Excellent where a dramatic effect is desired and particularly expressive when planted en
masse.
Notes: The best location for acanthus is where there are natural barriers. This plant supports
the old adage, “If it’s hard to establish, there’s a good chance it’s a thug.” On the bright side,
it makes a good cut flower. If this plant freezes and disappears completely above ground, it
will come back from the roots, though it can take a year or more to do so.
ACHILLEA Asteraceae
Achilleas, with few exceptions, are fairly capricious plants, unreliable both in terms of surviv-
ability and performance. When they do perform well, they are desirable for their platelike, almost
flat flower heads and, in some species and cultivars, for the feathery gray foliage.
Achillea filipendulina and its cultivars are short-lived at best. Achillea ‘Taygetea’ and A. ‘Moon-
shine’ prefer a dry, lime-rich location but even then live only several years and ultimately give up.
Achillea millefolium is invasive, and its selections can revert to the wild type, leaving you with a
multicolored mass (or mess). Achillea ageratum ‘W. B. Childs’ is a beautiful plant with serrated
leaves and white flowers in the typical inflorescence; it needs division to prosper but is worth
the effort. Personally we could live without them all, except maybe A. ‘Terracotta’: when it dies,
we’ll buy more and replace it. It blooms repeatedly from mid to late summer with upright flower
stems and heads that go through several color changes, eventually becoming pale orange.
We have noticed that the gray-foliaged forms do not do well with competition. They want
their own space, the perfect alley cat. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: After Achilles, of Greek mythology, who is said to have used it medicinally.
Common Name: Yarrow, sneezewort.
Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 36 12/7/06 6:04:55 PM

Achillea 37
Achillea ‘Terracotta’.
Origin: Southeastern Europe, Mediterranean, Asia.

Preferred Conditions: Light, well-drained, and not-too-rich soil. A poor soil is best to avoid
flopping. Drought tolerant once established. Plants may show distress in severe drought but
should recover.
Light: Sun.
Management: Achilleas benefit from division every three to four years when the center of the
plant begins to die out. Cut to new basal foliage once flowering is completed. Cut old growth
back to ground in winter when new growth begins. Some cultivars may need staking.
Propagation: Division in spring; semi-mature cuttings in summer and fall; sow seed in April or
May in a warm location.
Pests and Diseases: Some will suffer from mildew if allowed to dry out.
Companions: Asiatic lilies, eryngium, salvia, ornamental grasses, rudbeckia, phlox, phygelius,
dahlia, hemerocallis.
Notes: Flowers are excellent in fresh or dried arrangements. To dry, cut and hang upside down
in a dark area with good ventilation. Most cultivars will grow to very large clumps if given
the room and sun. In the chart, “fernlike” is shorthand for pinnate leaves that are composed
of pinnate leaflets; the epithet millefolium is apt. The symbol ' = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
ageratum ‘W. B. 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–8 White with dark Bright green, fernlike Long bloomer,
Childs’ green eye (M) good cut flower, not
invasive, RHS Award
‘Anthea’ 2–2½ft × 3–8 Light yellow, fading Cut leaf, silvery-gray Vigorous, not
1½ft to cream (E–L) invasive, bushy,
rebloom is common
‘Apfelblüte’ (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Pinkish peach (M–L) Fernlike, muted grayish Vigorous
‘Appleblossom’) green, compact
‘Coronation Gold’ 2½–3½ft × 3–8 Large, golden yellow Fernlike, green with a Wide-spreading,
2½ft (M–L) bit of gray great for drying, hard
to propagate, RHS
Award
033_113_TP.indd 37 1/10/07 11:24:29 AM

38 Achillea
USDA
Zone
‘Credo’ 3–4ft × 2ft 3–8 Light yellow, fading Fernlike, green Strong grower, RHS
to cream on strong Award
green stems (M–L)
‘Debutante’ 2ft × 2ft 3–8 Large flower with a Thick mats of dissected Resembles
full range in the pink leaves millefolium
shades (M–L)
‘Feuerland’ (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Strong red fading to Fernlike, green Self-supporting,
‘Fireland’) deep pink, salmon, multicolored effect
and soft gold, with
golden center (M–L)
filipendulina 3–5ft × 3ft 3–8 Golden yellow As above Good en masse, dries
clusters (M–L) well
f. ‘Gold Plate’ 4–5ft × 3ft 3–8 Deep yellow-gold, Fernlike, ash-gray Usually needs
huge flat plates of staking, RHS Award
flowers (M–L)
f. ‘Parker’s Variety’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Large, golden yellow Fernlike, green RHS Award
(M)
‘Heidi’ 1½–2½ft × 3–8 Carmine-pink fading As above Holds its color
2ft to clear pink then to well, good cut, RHS
blush (M–L) Award
‘Hoffnung’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–8 Sulphur-yellow Fernlike, gray-green Compact habit
(syn. ‘Great tinged with pink
Expectations’) (M–L)
×kellereri 8–12in × 3–8 Large, pure white Finely divided, gray Good in the rock
1–1½ft+ with yellow center garden
(M–L)
‘Lachsschönheit’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Coral-pink fading to Fernlike, green RHS Award
(syn. ‘Salmon cream (M–L)
Beauty’)
millefolium 2–3ft × ∞ 3–8 Red, white, and pink Fernlike, aromatic, pale Common yarrow,
with yellow center dark green best used where its
(M–L) invasiveness is an
asset, not a nuisance
m. ‘Cerise Queen’ 2–3ft × ∞ 3–8 Cherry-red (M–L) Feathery, deep Good cut, fresh or
blue-green dried
m. ‘Fire King’ 2–2½ft × ∞ 3–8 Crimson (M–L) Delicate, grayish green
m. ‘Lilac Beauty’ 2ft × 2ft 3–8 Lavender-pink Fine, feathery, green An older lavender
(syn. ‘Lavender (M–L) cultivar
Beauty’)
m. ‘Paprika’ 1½–2½ft × ∞ 3–8 Bright orange-red Green, fernlike A very good variety
with tiny yellow
center (M–L)
m. ‘Red Beauty’ 1½–2ft × ∞ 3–8 Large crimson-red Fernlike, dark green The best deep red
(M–L)
‘Moonshine’ 1½ft × 2ft 3–8 Lemony-yellow Silvery-gray Good foliage, doesn’t
(M–L) spread, RHS Award
ptarmica 14in × 24in 3–8 Pure white (E) Green Prolific flowering,
resembles baby’s
breath

Aconitum 39
USDA
Zone
p. The Pearl Group 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–8 Double white, pearl- Lanceolate, bright green, Vigorous spreader,
shaped (M–L) not divided self-sows
Summer Pastels 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Blend of ivory, Gray-green, finely laced,
Group yellow, orange, pink, compact habit
lavender, purple, red,
and white (M–L)
‘Summerwine’ 1½–2½ft × 3–8 Rich burgundy-red Fernlike, green RHS Award
2ft+ aging to purple
(M–L)
‘Taygetea’ 1½ft × 2½ft 3–8 Wide heads, yellow Grayish green Resembles
fading to cream A. ‘Coronation Gold’,
(E–M) long-flowering
‘Terracotta’ 2½–3½ft × 3–8 Multicolored, bright Silvery, fernlike A superior plant
2½ft peach aging to
orange tones (M–L)
tomentosa 8–12in × 12in 3–8 Creamy-yellow (E) Fernlike, gray-green Dwarf yarrow
t. ‘Aurea’ (syn. 8–12in × 12in 3–8 Bright yellow (E–M) As above Low rock rock
‘Maynard’s Gold’) garden plant
t. ‘King George’ 8in × 12in 3–8 Creamy-yellow As above Dwarf
(E–M)
‘Walther Funcke’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–8 Bright red-orange Fine, feathery, grayish Stems don’t flop
with a yellow eye green
(M–L)
‘Wesersandstein’ 1½–2½ft × 3–8 Deep pinkish red Fernlike, grayish green Self-supporting
(syn. ‘Weser River 2ft with white center on
Sandstone’) strong stems (M–L)
ACONITUM Ranunculaceae
Aconitums resemble delphiniums (both genera are poisonous) but are sturdier. Perennial clumps
of bright green foliage are visible at ground level in January. Aconitum ‘Ivorine’ is earliest to
bloom, in late spring, when columbines and early peonies are in flower; with small ivory flowers
and dissected palmate leaves; it is a lovely, tall plant to light up a shaded area. Next to flower is A.
lycoctonum subsp. vulparia with pale yellow flowers on even taller arching plants. Most others
are shades of blue or purple, much more like delphiniums in appearance but with a hooded
flower. A wide range of bloom times means that it is possible to have aconitum in bloom from
spring through late fall.
These are good plants for woodland conditions. The darker-flowered forms are a bit lost in
low light, however; try the paler blues or whites with blue edges instead, and plant the darkest
forms in sun. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek akoniton (“dart”), referring to the fact that this plant once
provided poison for the arrows of warriors. Others believe the name is derived from aconae,
its supposed place of origin; still others suggest it derives from the word akone (“cliffy,”
“rocky”), for one of the plant’s favorite habitats.
Common Name: Monkshood, wolfsbane.

40 Aconitum
Aconitum ‘Ivorine’ with Knautia macedonica.
Origin: Russia, China, Europe.

Preferred Conditions: Well-drained soil, moist but not too wet. Will suffer in full sun if too
dry.
Management: Resents root disturbance but can be divided in spring every five or six years
when clumps become congested and flower production diminishes. Plants can be pinched
back in spring to control height (be sure to wash your hands if you do this manually); this
will produce smaller, more numerous flowers, and plants may bloom later. We do not recom-
mend pinching in the Pacific Northwest. Deadhead after flowering to lateral bud for small,
second bloom. Cut stems to ground in winter before new growth begins. Staking may be
necessary. An annual feeding of organic material is beneficial.
Propagation: Division in spring or sow seeds as soon as ripe, generally late summer or autumn.
Seeds take many months to germinate.
Pests and Diseases: Crown rot, verticillium wilt, powdery mildew, aphids.
Companions: Grasses, astrantia, astilbe, cimicifuga (actaea), eupatorium.
Notes: Roots of aconitum were used to poison wolves. The root has been mistaken for a horse-
radish root; do not plant near edibles. Makes a good cut flower for fresh arrangements. Wash
your hands after planting or working with aconitum: the entire plant is poisonous.
033_113_TP.indd 40 1/10/07 11:25:57 AM

Aconitum 41
USDA
Zone
‘Bressingham Spire’ 3ft × 2ft 4–8 Deep violet-blue Glossy, divided, dark Doesn’t need staking,
(M–L) green RHS Award
×cammarum 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–8 White with violet- Finely toothed, Susceptible to
‘Bicolor’ blue edges (M–L) mid-green verticillium wilt,
RHS Award
carmichaelii (syn. 1½–2½ft × 3–8 Rich blue (M–L) Thick, leathery, glossy,
fischeri) 2ft+ lighter green
c. ‘Arendsii’ 3½–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Large dark blue on Dark green, glossy May need staking,
thick stems (M–L) RHS Award
‘Eleonara’ 3–3½ft × 4–8 Off-white with blue Deep green, glossy, Improved
1½ft edge (M–L) divided A. ×cammarum
‘Bicolor’
‘Ivorine’ (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Ivory-white and Deep green, deeply cut Very upright and stiff
septentrional narrow, flushed green
‘Ivorine’) (E–M)
‘Late Crop’ 3½ft × 2ft+ 2–9 Royal-blue (L) Deep green, bold Very late to flower
lycoctonum subsp. 2½–4ft × 4–8 Pale sulphur-yellow Mid-green, deeply cut Lax stems, tends to
neapolitanum (syn. 2ft+ (M) flop
lamarkii)
l. subsp. vulparia 3–5ft × 3ft+ 4–8 Creamy-yellow (M) Dark green, deeply cut, Tends to flop, has
dark stems more branching
stems than other
aconitums
napellus 3–5ft × 4–8 Deep blue (L) Dark green, glossy, Common
2½ft+ deeply divided monkshood, very
vigorous, self-sows
n. subsp. vulgare 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–8 White (L) As above Weaker than the
‘Albidum’ species
n. subsp. vulgare 3ft × 1½ft 4–8 Pale rose-pink (L) Dark green Flowers may fade in
‘Carneum’ too much heat
‘Newry Blue’ 3–5ft × 2ft 5–8 Rich deep blue (M) As above Very dark blue
‘Spark’s Variety’ 3–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Deep purplish blue Dark green, deeply lobed RHS Award
(M–L)
‘Stainless Steel’ 3–3½ft × 4–8 Metallic blue, Dark grayish green, Striking color
1½ft creamy-white inside deeply divided
(M)

42 Acorus
Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’ with hellebores.
ACORUS Acoraceae
Most aroids are grown for their flowers—not this one. Acorus is a quietly intriguing foliage plant.
The most interesting in spring is A. calamus ‘Argenteostriatus’, which comes out of dormancy
with strongly pink-tinged new blades for the first several weeks. This is a quality worth exploiting:
use it as an echo of other foliage and flower colors; for example, pair it with Geum rivale, whose
flower buds and centers are of a color similar to the emerging acorus. Acorus calamus (sweet flag)
is a very vertical plant, growing best in continually moist soil. Some measures have to be taken
before the swordlike leaves emerge or slugs will devour them. Graham Stuart Thomas (1990)
relates that the cinnamon-scented (when crushed) leaves of A. calamus were strewn about floors
in an attempt to counteract household odors (pre–vacuum cleaners).
All forms of A. gramineus are best sited at the edges of plantings, as they are relatively short
and most appreciated where they can be seen en masse. These plants grow out radially from the
center, and the foliage, which is straplike, plaits itself in one direction from the center (rather
like hair). All perform best in wet to moist soil. If grown drier, full sun will likely burn or discolor
them. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From an ancient word of Latin origin, akoron (“aromatic plant”).
Common Name: Japanese sweet flag, sweet flag.
Origin: Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, acid soil that is constantly moist. Tolerates a wide range of
conditions as long as moisture is available. Resents drying out; if subjected, will produce
brown tips and burnt foliage.

Actaea 43
Planting: Place one foot from high-water mark, if siting near water.
Management: May benefit from division every three to four years; divide the rhizomes and
replant them. The center of the clumps will become sparse, and it will be obvious that it’s
time to divide. Other than cutting out dead or bad-looking foliage and keeping it moist,
acorus doesn’t require much maintenance.
Propagation: Division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Prone to slug damage.
Companions: Canna, yellow daylilies, Euphorbia palustris, trollius, ligularia, rodgersia, Ranun-
culus ficaria.
Notes: Acorus calamus rhizomes grow back and forth across each other and can become quite
dense.
USDA
Zone
calamus 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–10 Greenish, Vertical creamy-yellow Evergreen,
‘Argenteostriatus’ insignificant (E–M) and white stripes, pink- may die back in
(syn. ‘Variegatus’) tinged at the base in cooler climates,
spring, sword-shaped spreads slowly
by underground
rhizomes
gramineus 1ft × 2ft+ 4–10 As above Mid-green, fragrant, Evergreen, slow to
small, grasslike increase but makes a
good clump
g. ‘Licorice’ 8–12in × 2ft+ 4–10 Small, white, Straplike, solid green, Slow to increase, a
insignificant (E–M) fragrant—aptly named bit tender
g. ‘Ogon’ 10–12in × 2ft+ 4–10 As above Straplike, gold and green As above
variegation
g. var. pusillus 2–5in × 1ft 4–10 As above Straplike, dark green A bit tender, dwarf,
also comes in a gold
form
g. ‘Variegatus’ 8–12in × 2ft+ 4–10 As above Straplike, white and Striking with black
green variegation mondo grass, a bit
tender
ACTAEA Ranunculaceae
The baneberry has another common name, doll’s eyes, because the berries, which can be either
red or white, have a dark dot on them that resembles the iris of a doll’s eye. As the berries are very
poisonous (hence baneberry), the charming name doll’s eyes seems a bit misleading. This wood-
lander from the North American forest bears white flowers in spring in short racemes, similar to
a bottlebrush; the leaves are trifoliate and finely divided. Plants like a bit of early spring sun but
prefer summer shade. They are very long-lived but slow to increase. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek aktea (“elder”), whose leaves this genus resembles.
Common Name: Baneberry, doll’s eye.
Origin: North America.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, humus-rich soil.
Light: Part shade to shade.

44 Actaea
Actaea rubra.
Management: Mulch in summer to keep cool and moist. Cut down after the autumn fruit falls.
Water well in summer. Wilting during the growing season will destroy the flower buds.
Propagation: Division in spring or seed. For seed collection, dry the fruit capsule and then
break it open.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs in the spring.
Companions: Ferns, arisaema, asarum, epimedium, pulmonaria, brunnera, helleborus, hosta,
Gillenia trifoliata, jeffersonia, polygonatum, Smilacina racemosa, Disporum sessile
‘Variegatum’.
Notes: The fruit lasts late into the season.
USDA
Zone
alba (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White on stiff, slender Coarse, green, fernlike White baneberry,
pachypoda, rubra f. red stalks (E) clump-forming, RHS
neglecta) Award
rubra 1½–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White on thin green As above Scarlet berries,
stalks (E) clump-forming, more
vigorous than
A. alba, RHS Award

Adenophora 45
ADENOPHORA Campanulaceae
The ladybells are a genus of graceful, hardy border perennials, very similar in habit and flower
shape to the campanula. Adenophora generally differs from campanula in having vertical stalks
with the bell-shaped flowers hanging down and packed a little tighter. Basal crowns grow in the
spring followed by tall leafy stems, rising to a fairly pointed end; the nodding flowers bloom on
these from the bottom up, with flowers tending to be smaller at the top. Unfortunately ladybells
are invasive, running underground by small, thin rhizomes that grow into new plants if broken.
They are difficult plants to control once established and are best used in a controlled area, like a
narrow bed along a driveway. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek aden (“gland”) and phorea (“to bear”), referring to the glan-
dular disk at the base of the flower style.
Common Name: Ladybells.
Origin: North Asia, Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, rich, moisture-retentive, well-drained, alkaline soil, but will grow
in most garden conditions. Tolerates quite dry conditions once established.
Light: Sun to shade.
Planting: Should be grouped for best effect.
Management: Cut spent flower stems to ground. It’s best not to let it go to seed. Cut dead
foliage to ground in winter. Roots do not like to be disturbed (how odd for an invasive plant).
Propagation: Division in spring, seed in July and August, and February to April.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs.
Companions: Ferns, Iris germanica, hosta, astilbe, hakonechloa, astrantia, geranium.
Notes: This plant is inappropriately used among perennials like peonies that have a woody
crown; you will never get the adenophora roots out of them. In the chart, the symbol ∞ =
infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
‘Amethyst’ 2ft × ∞ 4–8 Spires of long, down- Green, heart-shaped More of a “color”
facing bells of smoky basal leaves, toothed than the types below
lilac-pink (M–L) edges
bulleyana 3–4ft × ∞ 4–8 Large, lavender (M) Oblong and ovate, broad Somewhat invasive
and hairy
confusa 2–3ft × ∞ 4–8 Deep blue, nodding, Heart-shaped basal Drought tolerant
bell-shaped, 1in long, leaves, 3in long, finely once established
on upright branched toothed
stems (M)
liliifolia 2–4ft × ∞ 4–8 Light blue, slightly Light green, pointed, on Likes a moist site,
fragrant, bell-shaped dark stems the common old
(M–L) garden variety

46 Aegopodium
AEGOPODIUM Apiaceae
Bishop’s weed makes a good groundcover. The variegated

leaves are very attractive. It is tough and hardy. But praise
pales before the incontestable fact—it is very, very invasive,
especially the plain green form. Watch closely for rever-
sions in the variegated form. Even a propensity to spider
mites poses no threat. If rigidly controlled, it can enhance
shady places, and it does combine well with our West Coast
natives. I’m trying to be nice, but it’s no good. I have seen
what it can do in England, where it is comfortably in control
in all wild areas. It is great in difficult areas, maybe in the
Sahara, or the Arctic perhaps? Danger, Will Robinson.
~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek aix (“goat”) and podion

(“little foot”); plants were once thought to be a cure
for gout.
Common Name: Bishop’s weed, goatweed, goutweed,
ground elder.
Origin: Europe, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Thrives in most soils.
Management: You can remove flowers in summer, as they
Aegopodium podagraria ‘Variegatum’.
are not very attractive.
Propagation: Division anytime if well watered.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew and spider mites in some conditions (drought).
Companions: A great groundcover for moist to dry shade in large-scale areas under trees.
Notes: Not evergreen in the Pacific Northwest. In the chart, the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
podagraria 12in × ∞ 3–8 White, insignificant Plain green Bishop’s weed,
(M) slightly more
vigorous than
A. podagraria
‘Variegatum’
p. ‘Variegatum’ 10in × ∞ 3–8 As above Broadly variegated, Striking in mass
creamy white and green plantings
AGAPANTHUS Alliaceae
Commonly called lily of the Nile, these fleshy-rooted perennials are spectacular in summer.
The large globular heads of many tubular flowers are all attached at the same point on a strong
green stem. Best known for the intense blue flowers and striking seedheads, which turn a golden
brown late in the season, agapanthus are almost the last seed to ripen for us.
Agapanthus ‘Peter Pan’ is the hardiest africanus type and like all cultivars involving A. afri-
canus is usually evergreen. The campanulatus cultivars are what we use here in the Pacific
Northwest; unlike the africanus cultivars, these are completely deciduous and hardy. They are

Agapanthus 47
heavy feeders but should not be mulched over the top of the crown. In an extremely cold winter,
a cover of fir boughs will help protect them.
Agapanthus is a full-sun perennial, and plants are very long-lived. They resent competition
and should not be located where other foliage will grow over them. This is an excellent cut
flower and good container plant. They like to be pot-bound; even the africanus types can be used
in pots but do not allow them to freeze. ~ Bob Lilly
USDA
Zone
africanus (syn. 3ft × 2ft 9–10 Rich blue (M) Green, wide, straplike Evergreen, not
‘Umbellatus’) truly hardy in the
northwest, RHS
Award
a. ‘Albus’ 2–3ft × 2ft 9–10 White (M) As above Evergreen, RHS
Award
‘Blue Baby’ 1½ft × 2ft 7–9 Amethyst (M) As above Deciduous
‘Blue Triumphator’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 7–9 Blue (M) As above As above
‘Bressingham Blue’ 3–3½ft × 2ft 7–9 Deep blue (M) As above Best dark blue
for the garden,
deciduous
‘Bressingham 3ft × 2ft 7–9 Pure white (M) Mid-green, narrow Not a heavy flower
White’ producer, deciduous
campanulatus 3–3½ft × 7–9 Blue (M) Narrow, grayish green Good cut, hardiest,
1¼ft deciduous
c. ‘Isis’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Deep blue (M) Mid-green, narrow Deciduous
c. ‘Profusion’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Light and dark blue As above As above
(M)
Headbourne 3–4ft × 1½ft 7–9 Varying shades of As above As above
Hybrids blue and white (M)
inapertus 3–5ft × 2ft 7–9 Deep violet-blue, Rich green, straplike As above
nodding (L)
‘Kingston Blue’ 1½–2ft × 7–9 Indigo-blue (M) As above As above
1½ft
‘Lilliput’ 1½ft × 1ft 7–9 Dark blue (M–L) Light green, very narrow Dwarf, compact,
deciduous
‘Loch Hope’ 4ft × 2ft 7–9 Violet-blue (M) Mid-green, narrow Deciduous, RHS
Award
‘Midnight Blue’ 3–4ft × 2ft 7–9 Dark blue (M) As above Deciduous
‘Mood Indigo’ 3–4ft × 2ft 7–9 Deep violet (M) Large, bright green As above
‘Peter Pan’ 1½ft × 1½ft 8–10 Deep blue (E–M) Mid-green, straplike, Hardiest africanus
narrow type, dwarf,
evergreen
‘Pinocchio’ 1½–2ft × 1ft 7–9 Cobalt-blue (M–L) Straplike, deep green Dwarf, deciduous
‘Storm Cloud’ 2–3ft × 2ft 7–9 Large, deep blue, in Mid-green, wide, Deciduous, vigorous
large heads (M) straplike
‘Tinkerbell’ 2ft × 1ft 7–9 Soft blue (E–M) Variegated with creamy May need winter
white and green linear protection,
stripes evergreen
‘White Superior’ 1–2½ft × 7–9 White (M–L) Light green, straplike Deciduous, vigorous
1½ft

48 Agapanthus
Agapanthus
‘Loch Hope’. Scientific Name: From the Greek agape (“love”) and anthos (“flower”).
Common Name: Lily of the Nile.
Origin: South Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, rich soil. Keep well watered during growing season.
Drought tolerant once established.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant with crown just at the surface.
Management: Divide when flower production slows down. Plants will benefit from an annual
feeding in spring and organic mulch in the fall. Avoid digging near, as roots are brittle and
resent being disturbed. They grow toward the light so will look their best in a south-facing
border. Remove stems and cut to the ground as they die back in fall. Remove stressed leaves
anytime.
Propagation: Division, although it is a major job to untangle all the heavy, fleshy roots. This
can be done in spring, just as new growth begins. Seeds germinate easily in soil temperatures
of 59–77F, March through May.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs.
Companions: Contrasts well with yellow flowers. Easily combined with kniphofia, crocosmia,
phygelius, potentilla, iris, and tropical foliage.
Notes: Blooms its best once established and a bit crowded in the crown.

Agastache 49
Agastache rupestris.
AGASTACHE Lamiaceae
Here is a plant that belongs in an herb garden, a cottage garden, or a garden that has semi-wild
areas. It’s also a good border plant, depending on which species or cultivar you select. Agastache
needs hot, dry conditions to do well; it then combines well with other herbs with its dark, rough-
textured leaves, flower spikes in blending colors, and, in some species, pleasing fragrance (anise
or root beer, depending on your sense of smell). Find plants just the right spot to grow in, and
you will enjoy their presence for several years. Agastaches bloom at a time when the summer
colors of most other plants are over and will stay in flower until frost. They also do very well in
containers and make a good cut flower for fresh arrangements. Flowers are edible (do avoid the
bitter calyx) and make a good addition to green salads; enjoy the butterflies, bees, and humming-
birds that will be attracted to them in late summer. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek agan (“very much”) and stachys (“ear of wheat”).
Common Name: Giant hyssop, anise hyssop.
Origin: North America, Mexico, China, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, evenly moist, well-drained soil. Will thrive in most conditions
but does not like cold, wet feet. Drought tolerant once established.
Light: Sun.
Management: Erect and self-reliant so does not require a lot of maintenance. Seedheads can be
left on for winter interest, but if you deadhead them plants will reflower in response. Leave
stems on through the winter and cut them to new growth in the spring.

50 Ajuga
Propagation: Basal cuttings, especially for prized cultivars, to ensure replacements in case
of severe winter weather; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Will get mildew if allowed to get too dry.
Companions: Monarda, helenium, knautia, geranium, nepeta, origanum.
Notes: In zones 4–6, agastaches may be an annual or self-sow. Most cultivars do not appear to
be very hardy in the maritime Northwest—probably due to wet ground in the winter. Try one
or two and see if they grow well for you before relying on them as part of a planned design.
USDA
Zone
‘Apricot Sunrise’ 18–24in × 4–10 Fragrant apricot- Gray-green Heat and drought
12in orange (M–L) tolerant
‘Blue Fortune’ 30in × 12in 4–10 Dense cluster of rich Green, strong and stiff RHS Award
blue (M–L) upright growth
foeniculum 30in × 12in 4–10 Soft-looking clusters Green, very stiff upright Anise hyssop, self-
of blue flowers inside growth sows, very aromatic,
violet bracts (M–L) good cut
f. ‘Alba’ 24in × 12in 4–10 White (M–L) Light green, very stiff Aromatic (anise)
upright growth
f. ‘Aureum’ 30in × 12in 4–10 Pale violet (M–L) Gold Comes true from
seed
‘Pink Panther’ 18–24in × 4–10 Bright rose-pink Dark green, lanceolate Aromatic foliage
18in (M–L)
rupestris 24in × 24in 4–10 Coral-orange (M) Gray-green Very aromatic foliage
AJUGA Lamiaceae
Ajugas are popular low-spreading or clump-forming groundcovers—resilient and adaptable
plants that will take almost any condition. The flowers are borne on spikes in whorls in late spring
to early summer in shades of blue and pink. The attractive leaves vary in shape from obovate and
coarsely toothed to ovate and crinkled. Leaf color ranges from light green to bronze-purple or
even variegated. Many of the variegated forms will revert to green, are shorter-lived, and suffer
from slug predation. Ajuga is visually lost against dark mulch or soil; it looks its best planted
next to something lighter and brighter, such as Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’. Most forms of
A. reptans spread very quickly and can be invasive under good conditions. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: Obscure.

Common Name: Bugleweed, carpet bugle.
Origin: Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Heavy, humus-rich soil. Moist conditions are preferred except for the
variegated forms. Most will need supplemental watering only during the worst dry spells.
Planting: In colder areas, plant the young plants in spring.
Management: Cut off spent flower stems. If prone to mildew, cut flowering stems off immedi-
ately after flowering. Can become invasive if not kept in check, but easy to control. Cut off
the stoloniferous roots to control spread. Tidy up by removing dead leaves and stems.
Propagation: Division anytime but preferably in spring or fall. Take cuttings from April
through June.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, mildew, crown rot.

Ajuga 51
Ajuga reptans ‘Pink Elf’.
Companions: A good edge-softener for polygonatum, Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’, Hosta

‘Sum and Substance’, bronze fennel, grasses, iris, Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, and like
plants; also works well under fruit trees and bulbs.
Notes: Ground-covering plants act as a living mulch. Don’t worry about growing ajuga around
larger perennials or shrubs, as it will not harm them; just don’t let the ajuga overgrow
anything else. Listed in most books as a shade plant, in the Pacific Northwest ajuga does just
as well in full sun and heavy soil. In the chart, when foliage is described as toothed, the teeth
are typical of the mint family: rounded, with scalloping of various sizes.
USDA
Zone
genevensis 8–10in × 24in 3–10 Pink spikes (E–M) Coarsely toothed, Rock garden variety,
green, glossy, more restrained,
clump-forming prefers drier soil
g. ‘Pink Beauty’ 6–8in × 24in 5–10 Soft pink on upright Large-toothed, green, Not as hardy as the
spikes (E) glossy, clump-forming species
pyramidalis 2–10in × 18in 3–10 Violet-blue (E–M) Roundish, glossy, Slow to spread
slightly toothed, very
dense
p. ‘Metallica Crispa’ 6in × 12in 3–10 Deep blue (E–M) Reddish brown with a Tidy, clumping
metallic glint, crinkled habit, slow to spread,
and very dense beautiful
reptans 4–8in × 24in+ 3–10 Violet-blue (E) Dark green, bronze, or Spreads by runners,
mottled invasive, will tolerate
dry shade
r. ‘Alba’ 6–8in × 24in 3–10 White with a hint of Light green Spreads slowly
yellow (E)
r. ‘Atropurpurea’ 6–8in × 30in+ 3–10 Deep blue (E) Bronze-purple, Spreads rapidly, RHS
(syn. ‘Bronze rounded and flat Award
Beauty’)

033_113_TP.indd 51 1/10/07 3:21:58 PM
52 Alcea
USDA
Zone
r. ‘Braunherz’ (syn. 6–8in × 24in+ 3–10 As above Glossy deep-purple Good introduction,
‘Bronze Heart’) RHS Award
r. ‘Burgundy Glow’ 4–6in × 24in+ 3–10 Blue (E) Reddish purple, Tricolor with good
variegated with white fall color, spreads fast,
and pink doesn’t like to be dry,
RHS Award
r. ‘Catlin’s Giant’ 8–12in × 4–10 Dark blue (E) Very large, fluted Vigorous, a bit less
36in+ purple leaves, glossy hardy, RHS Award
r. ‘Jungle Beauty’ 10–15in × 4–10 Blue (E) Very large, mahogany- Vigorous, a bit less
36in+ purple, glossy hardy
r. ‘Multicolor’ (syn. 8–10in × 3–10 Deep blue (E) Pink, white, and yellow Slow to grow
‘Rainbow’) 24in+ variegated, shiny
r. ‘Pink Delight’ 8–10in × 3–10 Clear pink (E) Crinkled, green Best if given adequate
24in+ moisture and bright
light
r. ‘Pink Elf’ 4in × 12in 3–10 Deep pink (E) Dark green-bronze, A little thing
small
r. ‘Purple Brocade’ 6–8in × 24in+ 3–10 Sky-blue (E) Deep purple, glossy,
brocaded
r. ‘Purple Torch’ 12in × 24in+ 3–10 Lavender-pink (E) Green, turning bronze
in winter
r. ‘Silver Beauty’ 4–6in × 12in 3–10 Light blue (E) Silver-green and white Good contrast plant,
variegation not as vigorous
r. ‘Variegata’ 4–6in × 12in 3–10 As above Gray-green leaves Needs part shade for
edged and splotched best variegation, not
with creamy yellow as vigorous
ALCEA Malvaceae
Hollyhocks have long been associated with cottage gardens
and the far reaches of herbaceous borders. In nature,
they are plants of dry hills and steppes and rocky areas. It
should come as no surprise, then, that the best-looking
and healthiest hollyhocks are found in cement cracks and
baking neighborhood back alleys, where—because the
climate overall is not that of Turkey, Iran, and southern
Russia—they don’t live long, especially here in the Pacific
Northwest. There is nothing quite like them though,
and if you’ve had problems with the common hollyhock
(A. rosea), then you will appreciate A. ficifolia for its
rust resistance and large yellow flowers. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From alkaia, the Greek name for a kind

of mallow.
Common Name: Hollyhock.
Origin: Siberia.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained and moderate to
poor and drier soil.
Alcea ficifolia hybrid.

033_113_TP.indd 52 1/10/07 11:30:01 AM
Alchemilla 53
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut to new basal growth in fall or late winter. May require staking.
Propagation: Seed.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs may damage new growth in spring.
Companions: Delphinium, larger campanulas, large grasses, picket fences.
Notes: New hybrids between A. ficifolia and A. rosea give us more color choices and are also
rust resistant. Alcea rosea is considered to be biennial here in the Pacific Northwest: perhaps
they die; perhaps one just wishes they would, as they are so afflicted with rust.
USDA
Zone
ficifolia 3–8ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Pale, clear yellow Green, figleaf-shaped
(M–L)
ALCHEMILLA Rosaceae
Above all, let us consider A. mollis, which is the species most often grown and the lady’s mantle
with the largest leaves, gray-green and softly fuzzy. Every morning you can observe one of its well-
known characteristics, guttation (or perking of water) on the edges of the foliage—it looks like a
string of clear pearls on each leaf. As the morning progresses, dew (another process) collects in
the center of the leaves. When A. mollis flowers, the entire display is lovely. The flowers give the
impression of little clouds of chartreuse sitting atop and about the foliage.
The other alchemillas are of smaller stature and some are shiny green. None of the smaller
forms self-sows as wildly as A. mollis. All are great groundcovers or edge-softeners and look
good near water. All make good cut flowers, both fresh and dried. To dry, pick just as it comes
into full flower and hang upside down in a dark room with good air circulation; they turn a
wonderful golden tan. ~ Carrie Becker
Alchemilla mollis.

54 Alchemilla
Alchemilla mollis with Iris ensata and Lysimachia punctata. Design by Michael Schultz.
Scientific Name: From the Arabic alkemeluch (“alchemy”).

Common Name: Lady’s mantle.
Origin: Europe.
Preferred Conditions: This is a tough plant, and any conditions are good except for boggy
areas. It’s drought tolerant once established. Self-sows and pops up in almost any nook and
cranny.
Management: Cut flowering stems back to basal growth before going to seed and remove dead
leaves as needed. Alternatively for the larger forms, cut the entire plant to the ground as
soon as blooms begin to fade and water well; it will quickly leaf out again and produce
mounds of fresh foliage. In late fall or early winter, leaves will turn brown and mushy; cut
foliage back to ground.
Propagation: Divides very well in early spring before the leaves are fully formed; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Spider mites can sometimes be a problem.

Allium 55
Companions: Works well with most blue, purple, red, burgundy, and red-violet flowers; try it
with early dark red astilbe, or for high contrast, plant with ‘Magic Carpet’ spiraea, which
has red-orange new foliage. Other companions would be grasses, white foxgloves, golden
marjoram, geranium, and campanula; often planted under roses as a groundcover.
Notes: Seedlings are easy to remove; get them while they’re young!
USDA
Zone
alpina 6–8in × 18in 5–10 Loose clusters Kidney-shaped, lobed, Good for the rock
of green-yellow, with a fine silver edge, garden
somewhat silky-hairy and silver
insignificant (E–M) beneath
ellenbeckii 6–8in × 24in+ 5–10 Insignificant (E–M) Green, pleated, on wiry Good rock garden
red stems and groundcover
plant, runs
erythropoda 4–6in × 18in 5–10 Chartreuse, foamy Blue-green pleated, Compact, low
(E–M) densely and softly hairy mounds, smaller
on both sides version of A. mollis,
RHS Award
mollis 18–24in × 5–10 Chartreuse, in Gray-green, pleated, Self-sows, RHS
24in delicate airy sprays, downy, fan-shaped Award
long-blooming (E–L)
m. ‘Auslese’ 18–24in × 5–10 Airy, frothy mounds Pleated, green, Self-sows
24in of chartreuse (E–L) somewhat evergreen
m. ‘Thriller’ 18in × 24in 5–10 Yellowish, airy, frothy Gray-green Very similar to
(E–L) A. mollis ‘Auslese’,
self-sows
ALLIUM Alliaceae
Onions are the best example of a true bulb. Many layers surround a growth point from which
arises a single flower stem. The flowers are at the top of the strong stems in tight or loose clus-
ters (umbels) in a full range of colors, from white through to pink, blue, and purple and even
yellow. Alliums are good cut flowers for fresh arrangements and also make an excellent decora-
tive element when dried. Seedheads can be left in the garden for a show both after bloom and in
the winter, or cut for fall arrangements.
Most of the larger-flowered forms do not increase for us and need to be treated as annuals;
the best perennial alliums are A. cristophii and A. sphaerocephalon. We list only the forms we
consider to be hardy. Even so, they are best used in full sun so their leaves can cure well for next
year’s flower production. Leaves can be a bit iffy or messy by flowering time, so it is a compro-
mise: how to hide the foliage and still allow enough sun for it to cure. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Greek name for garlic.

Common Name: Flowering onion.
Origin: Europe, Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, fertile, rich, well-drained soil. Don’t overwater during the
summer months, as the bulbs should be allowed to cure.
Light: Sun.

56 Allium
Allium moly.
Management: Divide if clumps become too congested. Some are very invasive (see the chart).
Most large-flowering forms cure their leaves at flowering time. Cut foliage down when dead.
Watch for slugs and rabbits in early spring, and don’t let the invasive ones go to seed.
Propagation: Division if congested or flower production is reduced; seed (may take three or
more years to flower); and bulbs in the fall.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, rabbits, mildew, rust.
Companions: Roses, penstemon, iris, early salvia, knautia, astrantia, euphorbia, kniphofia,
grasses, hosta. Looks good in groupings, coming up through shrubs or perennials.
Notes: Dried seedheads have an even wider range of companions. Plant alliums in groups, not
singly. All alliums are entirely edible—foliage, bulb, and flower. In the chart, the symbol ∞ =
infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
aflatunense 3ft × 1ft 4–9 Purple (E) Green, turns brown by Needs summer
flowering time drought (bulbous)
cernuum 1–2ft × 1ft 4–8 Pink to purple, Glaucous to dark green, North American
nodding (M–L) narrow, straplike, native, very adaptable,
clump-forming vigorous, bulbous
cristophii 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–8 Huge, airy lilac globes Straplike, gray-green, Star of Persia,
of star-shaped blooms dies back before bulbous, self-sows,
with a metallic cast flowers bloom RHS Award
(M)
giganteum 4–6ft × 1ft 4–8 Purplish, with Large, straplike, Giant allium,
prominent stamens glaucous glaucous stems,
(M) bulbous, RHS Award

Alstroemeria 57
USDA
Zone
hollandicum 18–24in × 4–9 Violet, spherical Green, straplike Very perennial,
‘Purple Sensation’ 10in umbel (E) increases slowly in
the garden
moly 6in × 6in 4–9 Yellow (E) Gray-green Invasive, prolific,
bulbous
schoenoprasum 9–12in × 18in 4–9 Round umbels of Green, hollow, Chives, self-sows,
tiny bell-shaped pale cylindrical, edible, may flower
purple blooms (E–M) clump-forming better in lighter, drier
soil
s. ‘Forescate’ 9–12in × 18in 4–9 Round umbels, deep As above Grown for its flower
purplish pink (E–M) color, vigorous
senescens 10–12in × 12in 4–9 Lilac to rose-pink, Straplike, green to Clump-forming,
cup-shaped, in silver-gray, tends to circle allium,
umbels (M–L) twist vigorous
s. subsp. 6–12in × 12in 4–9 Pinky-mauve globes Glaucous, turns orange Clump-forming,
montanum var. (M–L) in fall, often twisted doesn’t like
glaucum (syn. competition
glaucum)
sphaerocephalon 2–3ft × 4in 4–10 Wine-purple, in egg- Mid-green, hollow, Drumstick allium,
shaped umbels(M) cylindrical bulbous
unifolium 8in × ∞ 4–9 Pink up-facing florets Grasslike, green, flops Invasive, prolific,
(M) to ground at flowering self-sows, bulbous,
time then cures RHS Award
ALSTROEMERIA Alstroemeriaceae
If you haven’t grown the Peruvian lilies, you’ve probably had them in a fresh floral arrange-
ment; but these long-lasting flowers deserve a place in both a vase and the garden. The
foliage is arranged in whorls up the wiry stems and topped off by a cluster of exotic lilylike
blooms. These striking flowers appear in a large range of colors, from shades of bright orange
to softer combinations of pink and white, yellow streaked with red, and even a red and green
one. Most have beautiful markings and show off their stuff in the height of the summer.
Alstroemerias spread by fleshy roots that form new tubers. In the case of A. aurea, the hardiest
species, these roots can become very invasive. They will also seed in the Pacific Northwest. With
so many new hybrids that behave quite well, we wouldn’t encourage you to grow this species
in your mixed border, but rather in a place where its spread could be controlled or appreciated.
Alstroemeria ligtu hybrids can also become invasive over time.
The seedheads of alstroemeria are very attractive and can be left on until fall cleanup if they
haven’t already been cut for the vase. If you do use them for fresh arrangements, instead of cutting
the flower off of the stem, give the entire stem a good quick tug, pulling it from the crown. This
will signal the plant to produce new stems, prolonging the flowering season. Cut flower growers
use this system on their field crops. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After Baron Claus Alstroemer (1736–1794).

Common Name: Peruvian lily.
Origin: Chile, Brazil, Peru.

58 Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria ligtu
hybrids.
Alstroemeria ligtu with Lychnis coronaria, Verbascum chaixii ‘Album’, and various white
lilies mixed in for accent.

Alstroemeria 59
Preferred Conditions: Rich, fertile, well-drained soil with average water. Tolerates a heavier
and poorer soil once established.
Light: Sun to part shade. Provide shade from intense heat.
Planting: Plant deep, approximately nine inches, although they will find their own depth.
Management: Plants resent being moved. Very young plants should be protected for the first
and second winter with mulch. Some support is often needed; try pea sticks or grow them
through shrubs.
Propagation: Careful division in March. Seed requires stratification.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs are a problem, particularly early in the season.
Companions: Caryopteris, hypericum (shrubby forms), hemerocallis, baptisia, spiraea.
Notes: The series bred for pot culture or cut flower culture may not be as hardy. In the chart,
the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
aurea (syn. 2½–3ft × ∞ 6–10 Golden orange, Limp, lanceolate, gray- Invasive, hardiest
aurantiaca) spotted with red, green, roots go down species
multibranched deep (to Chile)
umbels (M)
hookeri 8–12in × 12in 6–10 Pink, on very short Gray-green Dwarf, needs lots of
stems (M) heat
ligtu hybrids 2–4ft × ∞ 6–10 White, cream, orange, As above Self-sows, invasive,
red, pink, salmon, or RHS Award
yellow, streaked with
red, in loose clusters
of 15 or more on wiry
stems (M)
Princess Series 2–2½ft × 2ft+ 6–10 Wide range of colors, Mid-green Bred for cut flower
both pastel and trade, runs, some
bright (M–L) have RHS Awards
psittacina 2–3ft × 3ft+ 6–10 Red and green, Mid-green, evergreen in Parrot flower,
exotic-looking, in mild zones mulch for winter
clusters of 4 or more protection, runs
(M–L)
p. ‘Royal Star’ (syn. 2–3ft × 3ft+ 6–10 As above White-edged, otherwise Doesn’t run as much,
p. variegated) as above but will revert

60 Amsonia
AMSONIA Apocynaceae
Amsonia is a small genus of eastern U.S. woodlanders with

a great deal of charm. These slow-growers are hard to find
but worth pursuing (A. tabernaemontana is most widely
available); they make good cut flowers, but you might want
to wait for plants to get well established before cutting.
~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After Charles Amson, eighteenth-

century Virginia physician and botanist.
Common Name: Blue star.
Origin: Eastern United States, west to Texas.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, well-drained, moisture-
retentive, fertile soil. Likes heat and plenty of moisture.
Light: Full sun to part shade.
Management: This is a low-maintenance plant. Mulch
lightly in early spring. Plants can be cut back during
the season to prevent their becoming too tall after
flowering; they will then produce feathery new shoots.
Doesn’t need frequent division, and doesn’t like to be
Amsonia tabernaemontana. disturbed. In late fall, cut woody stems to the ground.
Watch for slugs in early spring.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed in spring.
Companions: Narcissus, paeonia, achillea, euphorbia, iris; good as a specimen or in groups, and
works well as a late-spring filler plant.
Notes: Grows well on the verge of woodlands, where the shade of trees gives way to sun. Sun
enhances their striking fall color.
USDA
Zone
ciliata 3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Bright blue (M) Feathery, turns bright Spreads by
gold in fall underground
runners
hubrichtii 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Light blue, starlike Needlelike, turns
(E–M) orange-gold in fall
orientalis (syn. 1ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale gray-blue, darker Dull green RHS Award
Rhazya orientalis) in bud (E)
tabernaemontana 2½–3½ft × 4–9 Light blue, starlike, Dull green turning Best form for
1½ft funnel-shaped, in golden yellow in maritime Northwest
clusters (E–M) fall, willowlike,
clump-forming
t. var. salicifolia 2½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Light blue with a Narrow, good gold to A wonderful willowy
white throat and orange fall color look
small beard within
(E–M)

Anaphalis 61
Anaphalis triplinervis.
ANAPHALIS Asteraceae
Only two species of these daisy family members are used as border perennials. The native
A. margaritacea is found throughout the Pacific Northwest, and since our weather tends toward
wet winters and springs and drier summers and falls, it’s safe to assume that these conditions
suit this species. Both have grayish leaves, indicating their fondness for poorer soils, and quietly
charming little gray-white flowers. The more attractive species is A. triplinervis, which has
broader leaves (perhaps half an inch across) with three prominent veins; it’s one of the few gray-
foliaged plants that actually thrives in the shade. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: Greek name for another everlasting.

Common Name: Pearly everlasting.
Origin: Himalayas, Cascades, widespread in temperate subalpine zone.
Preferred Conditions: Average and well-drained soil. Doesn’t like to dry out. Tolerates strong
sun and poor soil.
Management: Top-dress lightly with a mulch in spring. Cut back old stems and dead leaves in
fall.
Propagation: Division in fall; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew can be a problem with dry soil.
Companions: Sedum, verbascum, carex, hosta, low fall asters, salvia, Lychnis coronaria,
Scabiosa ochroleuca.
Notes: Good for drying but must be cut in tight bud.
USDA
Zone
margaritacea 18in × 24in+ 4–8 Grayish white with Narrow, gray Northwest native,
tiny yellow center pearly everlasting,
(M–L) runs
triplinervis 12in × 12in 4–8 As above Silver gray-green and Clump-forming, gray
felted underneath with 3 foliage for the shade!
distinct veins RHS Award
t. ‘Sommerschnee’ 12in × 12in 4–8 As above Narrow, gray Great cultivar and
gray foliage for the
shade, RHS Award

62 Anchusa
ANCHUSA Boraginaceae
We all need a bit of bugloss in the garden! Anchusa azurea

is a good perennial for the middle of the border; its selec-
tions are strong performers but should be kept from too
much feeding, as this can make them a bit lanky. Only this
one species and its cultivars are commonly available. Their
colors are wonderful in the garden, but as with many fast-
growing perennials, they are short-lived. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Greek name denoting a pigment

obtained from the roots of some species and used as a
cosmetic.
Common Name: Bugloss, alkanet.
Origin: Europe, Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Deep and well-drained, moist soil.
Will not tolerate wet conditions, especially winter wet,
but don’t allow it to dry out.
Management: Cut back stems after flowering; this encour-
ages basal growth and further bloom and discourages
self-sowing. Cut back again in fall cleanup. So short-
lived in heavy soils, we suggest using new plants each
year. They may become invasive in too rich of a soil. Do
not overfertilize.
Propagation: Root cuttings in early spring for cultivars;
seed in spring for species.
Pests and Diseases: Root rot.
Companions: Lupinus, nepeta; useful as a filler plant. In
Anchusa azurea ‘Loddon Royalist’. early summer, pair A. azurea ‘Loddon Royalist’ with the
coarse hairy stems and leaves of Papaver orientale (the
strong orange forms)—the two are a perfect counterpoint as well as a perfect complement
in color. Add some orange geums and deep blue siberian iris, with a little Euphorbia griffithii
‘Fireglow’ nearby—an eye-popping combination.
USDA
Zone
azurea 3–5ft × 2ft 3–8 Purplish blue (M) Coarse, dark green, hairy Superseded by its
leaves and stems cultivars
a. ‘Dropmore’ 3–4ft × 2ft 3–8 Gentian-blue (M) Coarse, hairy
a. ‘Little John’ 1½ft × 2ft 3–8 Deep blue, small As above Dwarf alkanet
(M–L)
a. ‘Loddon Royalist’ 3ft × 2ft 3–8 Deep blue, large (M) Coarse, hairy, on heavy Bushy and well
branching spikes branched, RHS
Award

Anemone 63
ANEMONE Ranunculaceae
The genus Anemone is large and diverse, with species

occurring in a wide range of habitats, from woodland to
open meadowlands; gardeners everywhere will therefore
be able to grow many of them. We deal with the herbaceous
perennial forms, with their nodding, often fragrant, single
and semi-double pastel flowers. The lovely common name
windflower, originally applied to A. blanda from Greece, is
now applied to all anemones. Windflowers that are truly
perennial are generally best in the wild garden or the front
edge of an understory. Various species provide interesting
foliage, colorful flowers, and unusual seedheads; even the
flower buds can be striking, some being shiny, translucent,
and pearl-like.
Every garden needs a windflower; I think it should be
possible to have an anemone in flower somewhere in your
garden from early spring to fall. The Japanese anemones
will want to take over the autumn border, however, and
need to be strictly controlled. Fall division is not recom-
mended: these are spring division plants!
A word of caution: the entire plant is poisonous. ~ Susan
Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek anemos (“wind”).

Common Name: Windflower. Anemone nemorosa ‘Viridiflora’.
Origin: China, Europe, northwestern Asia, Japan.
Preferred Conditions / Light / Management:
Group 1. Woodland anemone (blanda, ×lesseri, multifida, nemorosa, sylvestris). Sun to part
shade in well-drained, humus-rich soil that doesn’t dry out. Doesn’t need division except for
propagation. Spring- or summer-flowering; goes dormant after blooming.
Group 2. Japanese anemone (hupehensis, ×hybrida, rivularis, tomentosa). Sun to part shade
in well-drained, fertile, humus-rich soil. Some may be invasive once established. They will
benefit from a winter mulch. Dig around the plants (root prune) every year to help control
spread, although without removal of the extra roots you may be propagating these anem-
ones! Cut foliage down when dead in winter. Fall-flowering.
Propagation: Division in spring as new growth appears. Japanese anemones can also be propa-
gated from root cuttings in spring.
Companions: For spring bloomers—bulbs, aquilegia, dicentra, helleborus, omphalodes, Ranun-
culus ficaria, trillium, primula. For late summer and fall bloomers—grasses, hardy fuchsias,
aster, dahlia, eupatorium, phlox, astrantia.
Notes: Watch for flop on A. hupehensis and A. h. var. japonica; try pea sticks or contain with
shrubs. In our gardens, all Japanese anemones run and can cover much more ground than
noted in the chart.

64 Anemone
USDA
Zone
blanda 3–4in × 4in 4–8 Blue, white, or pink Deeply divided, green Grecian windflower,
(many cultivars) (E) and very short, dies tuberous, RHS
down by summer Award
hupehensis (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Pink inside, maroon 3-lobed, oval to rounded, Chinese anemone,
japonica) on reverse, 5–6 dark green, toothed and extremely invasive
rounded segments divided
(M–L)
h. ‘Hadspen 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Single to semi- Deep green, 3-lobed, RHS Award
Abundance’ double, deep rose- oval to rounded, toothed
pink, golden yellow and divided
center (M–L)
h. var. japonica 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Variable, creamy pink Deep green, maple-leaf Japanese anemone,
to magenta, appears shape invasive, self-sows
double (M–L)
h. var. japonica 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Darker rose-pink Dark green A bit better behaved
‘Bressingham with a white sheen,
Glow’ semi-double to
double (M–L)
h. var. japonica 2–4ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Deep rose-red, semi- As above RHS Award
‘Pamina’ double (M–L)
h. var. japonica 2–4ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Deep pink with As above Clump-forming,
‘Prinz Heinrich’ yellow center, semi- aggressive, RHS
(syn. ‘Prince double (M–L) Award
Henry’)
h. ‘Praecox’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Carmine-pink (M) As above
h. ‘Splendens’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Deep red (L) Dark green, deeply Aggressive
divided
×hybrida (syn. 3–5ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Pale rose-pink, golden Dark green, 3-lobed, Japanese anemone,
japonica) yellow center, single ovate, toothed, slightly aggressive, may need
to double (M–L) hairy staking
×h. ‘Alice’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Light pink, semi- Dark green, deeply cut Clump-forming,
double (M–L) spreads slowly
×h. ‘Andrea 3ft × 2ft+ 6–10 White with Deep green, maple-leaf Seedheads turn a
Atkinson’ chartreuse center, shape rich brown, vigorous
single (M–L)
×h. ‘Elegans’ (syn. 3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Pink, silvery reverse, Deep green Wiry stems, vigorous,
‘Max Vogel’) single (M–L) RHS Award
×h. ‘Honorine 3–4ft × 3ft+ 4–8 White with yellow Mid-green, deeply cut Strong plant once
Jobert’ (syn. ‘Alba’) stamens, single established, can be
(M–L) invasive, RHS Award
×h. ‘Königin 3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Soft silvery-pink, pale Dark green Vigorous, RHS
Charlotte’ (syn. purple on reverse, Award
‘Queen Charlotte’) semi-double (M–L)
×h. ‘Kriemhilde’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Light pink with deep As above Vigorous
pink reverse, semi-
double (M–L)
×h. ‘Margarete’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Deep rosy-pink, Slightly hairy A bit better behaved
golden center, semi-
double (M–L)
×h. ‘Richard 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Dark pink, bright gold Lobed, coarse, slightly As above
Ahrens’ center, single (M–L) hairy

Anemone 65
USDA
Zone
×h. ‘Robustissima’ 2–4ft × 3ft+ 5–8 Light pink-mauve, Deep green, Vigorous, spreading
single (M–L) grape-leaved
×h. ‘September 2–3ft × 3ft+ 4–8 Rich silvery-pink, Dark green, deeply Clump-forming,
Charm’ darker reverse (M–L) divided strong plant, RHS
Award
×h. ‘Whirlwind’ 2–4ft × 3ft+ 4–8 Large, white, gold Mid-green Strong plant once
center, semi-double established, can be
(M–L) invasive
×lesseri 1–1½ft × 1ft 5–8 Small, deep rose-red, Fernlike, mid-green, Erect, clump-
white center (E–L) toothed, lobed, hairy forming, not
long-lived
multifida 8–10in × 8in 4–8 Small, white to Deeply divided, hairy, North American
creamy-yellow (M) mid-green native, vigorous
nemorosa 6–12in × 4–8 White to bluish white Dark green, 3- to 5-part, Wood anemone,
12in+ to pink and blue, deeply cut and toothed aggressive, summer
single (E) dormant, long-lived
once established,
RHS Award
n. ‘Allenii’ 6–10in × 4–8 Deep rich lavender- Mid-green Strong grower,
12in+ blue inside, paler blue summer dormant,
outside, large (E) RHS Award
n. ‘Blue Eyes’ 6–10in × 4–8 White aging to blue As above Summer dormant
12in+ in center, double to
nearly single (E)
n. ‘Flore Pleno 6–10in × 4–8 White, double to As above As above
12in+ semi-double (E)
n. ‘Robinsoniana’ 6–12in × 4–8 Lavender-blue inside, As above Dark maroon stem,
18in+ pale creamy-gray summer dormant,
outside (E) RHS Award
n. ‘Vestal’ 6in × 12in+ 4–8 White, extremely As above Clump-forming,
double, tufted center summer dormant,
(E) RHS Award
n. ‘Viridiflora’ 6in × 12in+ 4–8 Green bracts and As above Summer dormant,
petals, very double charming curiosity
(E)
rivularis 2–3ft × 1ft+ 6–8 White with blue-gray Green, divided Clump-forming
reverse, blue center
(M)
sylvestris 1–1½ft × 4–8 White, yellow Deeply cut, light green Snowdrop anemone,
1½ft+ stamens, nodding, repeat bloom in fall,
cup-shaped, fragrant vigorous, runs
(E–M)
s. ‘Elise Fellmann’ 10–15in × 3–8 White, double (E–M) Deeply cut, mid-green May repeat bloom in
18in+ fall, runs
s. ‘Macrantha’ 1–1½ft × 4–9 White with yellow Deeply cut, hairy White seedheads,
1½ft+ stamens, double, runs
nodding, fragrant
(E–M)
tomentosa 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Soft pink or white, Divided, deeply veined, Clump-forming,
darker reverse (M–L) mid-green, 3-part oval, aggressive spreader,
toothed, hairy can be invasive

66 Anemonella
Anemonella thalictroides
f. rosea ‘Oscar Schoaf’.
ANEMONELLA Ranunculaceae
Anemonella thalictroides is a native wildflower of the central and eastern American woodland. The
white or pink flower has five to ten petal-like sepals surrounding a cluster of stamens and pistils. In
the case of the doubles, the stamens become petal-like. The flowers are arranged in loose umbels.
The leaves, which emerge after the flowers, are reminiscent of thalictrum. True to their origins,
anemonellas enjoy rich, moist but well-drained soil. They colonize very slowly from tuberous roots
and need to be protected from competition in the root zone. Double forms last longer in flower and
multiply more rapidly. Plants disappear by midsummer (summer dormant), earlier if they don’t get
enough moisture. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: Diminutive of anemone.

Common Name: Rue anemone.
Origin: Eastern North America.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moist, and moderately fertile.
Light: Part shade.
Management: They resent disturbance. Remove dead foliage and mark location of plants; even
when dormant, they need to be kept moist.
Propagation: Carefully separate small outer portions of the tuberlike root clusters in late
winter; each piece needs a tiny pip or growth point; seed as soon as ripe.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, powdery mildew, rust.
Companions: Small ferns, bulbs, viola, hosta, Anemone nemorosa (but give them their own
spot).
Notes: All forms increase slowly by forming a cluster of tuberous roots; they do not run.
06_12_F08
033_113_TP.indd 66
Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G5J No_5 1/10/07 11:33:31 AM
Anthemis 67
USDA
Zone
thalictroides 6–10in × 4–8 White to pale pink, Similar to thalictrum,
6in single and double (E) deeply divided but on a
smaller scale
t. ‘Big Green 6–8in × 6in 4–8 Green with white As above
Picture’ congested petals in
center, large (E)
t. ‘Cameo’ 6–8in × 6in 4–8 Soft pink (E) As above
t. ‘Jade Feather’ 6–8in × 6in 4–8 Green (E) As above
t. f. rosea ‘Oscar 6–8in × 6in 4–8 Pink, double (E) As above Elegant double
Schoaf’ flower
t. semi-double 6–8in × 6in 4–8 White, semi-double As above
white (E)
t. ‘Stephanie 6–8in × 6in 4–8 Pink, single, large (E) As above
Feeney’
ANTHEMIS Asteraceae
The flowers of these daisylike perennials consist of a yellow center surrounded by yellow, orange,
or white ray flowers. All “daisies” have these ray flowers surrounding a center of disk flowers.
(Please don’t quibble about the double ones.) The foliage is aromatic, deeply cut, and fernlike.
Anthemis are easy to grow in full sun and are valuable filler plants in a border setting. They make
a good cut flower for floral arrangements, both fresh and dried. The plant habit (floppy, messy,
gawky, sloppy) is a bit annoying in our dim summers and wet soils. A hard cut after flowering can
kill them. ~ Susan Carter
Anthemis tinctoria
‘Sauce Hollandaise’.

68 Aquilegia
Scientific Name: Greek name for this plant.

Common Name: Golden marguerite.
Origin: Mediterranean.
Preferred Conditions: Lean, alkaline, well-drained soil. Doesn’t require a lot of water. Drought
tolerant once established.
Light: Sun.
Management: Keep plant deadheaded and the spent flower stems cut down. This will
encourage new basal growth. Pinch back in spring for a bushier growth habit. Try pea sticks
to help control the flop. Do not let plants dry out as growth begins.
Propagation: Replace every two or three years in spring. Stem cuttings. Seed indoors in winter
or outside in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, aphids, occasional mildew.
Companions: Solidago, grasses, sages, geranium, monarda, patrinia.
Notes: Even though this is a very short-lived plant, it’s very handsome and a long bloomer
while alive.
USDA
Zone
sancti-johannis 18–24in × 2ft 4–9 Orange rays around a Gray-green, divided
yellow center (M)
‘Tetworth’ 18–24in × 2ft 3–7 White, semi-double Gray-green, feathery Long flowering season
(M–L)
tinctoria 18–36in × 2ft 3–7 Rich yellow with Mid-green, gray-green Short-lived, used as
yellow center (M–L) below, finely cut a dye
t. ‘E. C. Buxton’ 18–28in × 2ft 3–8 Lemon-yellow with Dark green, ferny Bushy
yellow center (M–L)
t. ‘Kelwayi’ 18–24in × 2ft 3–8 Clear golden yellow Dark green, feathery Old-fashioned
(M–L) marguerite
t. ‘Sauce 18–24in × 2ft 4–9 Pale cream, white Dark green, finely
Hollandaise’ (M–L) divided
t. ‘Wargrave 24–36in × 2ft 3–7 Lemon-yellow, palest Deep green, finely Short-lived
Variety’ of all A. tinctoria (M) divided
AQUILEGIA Ranunculaceae
What would spring be like without columbines? I would not refuse space to any columbine in my
garden—the deep blue flowers of A. alpina, blooming with narcissus, dogtooth violets, pulmonaria,
and the sharp green foliage of Milium effusum ‘Aureum’, is just one vignette that comes to mind.
There is a columbine for every color scheme, from the strangely hued A. vulgaris ‘William Guiness’
(deep maroon and ivory flowers and gray-green foliage) or the fabulous A. v. ‘Adelaide Addison’
(double granny’s-bonnet flowers in purple and white) to the frilly A. v. var. stellata ‘Nora Barlow’,
with densely doubled petals of green, pink, and cream. They’re good as cut flowers, but don’t last
very long. Typical of the buttercup family, all aquilegias are poisonous. They seed about easily and
cross among themselves, producing surprises throughout the garden. Isolate the special one to
conserve the color or type. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Latin aquila (“eagle”), referring to the shape of the petals.
Common Name: Columbine.

Aquilegia 69
Aquilegia vulgaris var.

stellata ‘Black Barlow’.
Origin: Northern hemisphere.

Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moisture-retentive, and don’t let the soil dry out. Taller
varieties may need protection (staking) from wind.
Light: Sun to part shade. Alpine forms need full sun.
Planting: Transplant as young as possible from containers or sow in place.
Management: Resents disturbance (deep taproot). Not demanding in culture. Staking is
not usually necessary. Cut hard after flowering to help control leaf miners and mildew, if
present. Many are short-lived and should be replaced every four or five years. Some will give
a repeat bloom if deadheaded.
Propagation: Fresh seed is easiest; sow when ripe in summer. Seed needs light to germinate so
don’t cover with much soil.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, leaf miners, aphids. Snip off leaves at first sign of leaf miner infes-
tation (usually affects only the appearance of the plant). Sawfly larvae are a new pest that
can skeletonize the entire plant; pick off the green larvae, and cut back foliage if damage is
severe—plants usually recover.
Companions: Viola, Alchemilla mollis, geranium, hemerocallis, paeonia, digitalis, hosta,
euphorbia, pulmonaria.
Notes: Aquilegias are a must for the hummingbird garden.
USDA
Zone
alpina 12–18in × 3–9 Blue or white, short Green, finely divided, Good for rock
12in spurs, nodding (E) compact gardens
Biedermeier Group 8–18in × 10in 3–9 Yellow, blue, white, Gray-green, compact Nosegay columbine,
pink, red, white- dwarf, dainty
tipped, single and
double, out-facing
(E–M)
caerulea 2–2½ft × 3–9 Blue and white, on Green, 3-parted Rocky Mountain
18in erect stems, long columbine, likes it
spurs (E–M) cool, RHS Award

70 Aquilegia
USDA
Zone
canadensis 2–3ft × 1ft 3–9 Bicolored, red and Dark green Native, long-lived,
yellow, up-facing less susceptible to
(E–M) leaf miner, self-sows,
RHS Award
chrysantha 2½–4ft × 1ft 3–9 Yellow, long spurs, Rich green, thin, Golden spur
fragrant (E) divided columbine, shade
tolerant, good
rebloomer if
deadheaded
c. ‘Yellow Queen’ 2½–3½ft × 3–9 Golden yellow with Green, thin, divided
18in long spurs, large 3in
flowers (E–M)
‘Crimson Star’ 18–30in × 3–9 Crimson and white Green, sparse, open Good cut
18in with long spurs
(E–M)
‘Dragonfly’ 18–24in × 3–9 Rose, blue, yellow, As above Good cut
18in white, pink, red, and
pastels, long spurs
(E–M)
flabellata 10–12in × 3–9 Blue or white-lilac, Glaucous, fanlike, broad Dwarf, RHS Award
12in yellow-tipped,
nodding, short spurs
(E–M)
f. ‘Ministar’ 6in × 8in 3–9 White with blue As above Dwarf
spurs (E–M)
formosa 2–3ft × 18in 3–9 Red and yellow, Airy stems, bluish Western columbine,
nodding (E) green, finely divided native
fragrans 30in × 18in 3–9 Milky-white or pale Green
blue, fragrant (M)
‘Hensol Harebell’ 3ft × 18in 3–9 Deep blue, short Green, sparse, open Strong grower, RHS
spurs (E) Award
‘Irish Elegance’ 2ft × 18in 3–9 White with greenish Dark blue-green
tint on tips, double,
no spurs (E)
McKana Group 2–3ft × 18in 3–9 Yellow, pink, red, Blue-green Good cut
(syn. ‘McKana white, large, long
Giants’) spurs, lightly fragrant
(E–M)
Music Series 16–18in × 3–9 Bicolored with outer Green, compact Uniform, strong
18in petals of blue, pink, plant, good cut, full
or red with white or range of colors, RHS
gold center, large, Award
long spurs (E–M)
Songbird Series 16–24in × 3–9 Blend of colors, large As above As above
18in (E–M)
viridiflora 12in × 12in 3–9 Dark olive with short Green, lightweight Flowers are easy to
spurs, bell-shaped, miss
scented (E)
vulgaris 18–30in × 3–9 White, yellow, Gray-green, divided, Granny’s bonnet,
18–24in purple, red, small, erect clumps common columbine,
short spurs (E–M) self-sows freely

Arisaema 71
USDA
Zone
v. ‘Adelaide 24–36in × 3–9 Blue-purple with Green, erect clumps Self-sows
Addison’ 18in white center, double,
nodding (E–M)
v. var. flore-pleno 12–24in × 3–9 Violet, rose, and As above As above
18in white, double,
spurless (E–M)
v. var. stellata (syn. 30–36in × 3–9 Rose, white, blue, As above Flowers are
clematiflora) 18in violet, flat, nodding, charming but shatter
spurless (E) easily
v. var. stellata 30in × 18in 3–9 Black and deep violet As above Good cut
‘Black Barlow’ shades, double (E)
v. var. stellata ‘Nora 30–36in × 3–9 Shades of pink, Green, compact, erect A distinctive look,
Barlow’ 18in white, and soft green clumps RHS Award
in the same flower,
double (E–M)
v. Vervaeneana 18–24in × 3–9 Off-white, pale blue, Splashed with golden Grown mostly for
Group 18in pale pink (E–M) variegations foliage
v. Vervaeneana 18–24in × 3–9 Pale blue (E–M) As above As above
Group ‘Woodside 18in
Blue’
v. ‘William Guiness’ 24–30in × 3–9 Dark maroon with Gray-green, open, some Superb flower, good
(syn. ‘Magpie’) 18in ivory corolla (E) maroon cut
ARISAEMA Araceae
Not all of these relative newcomers to the gardening scene have yet been named, let alone
discovered. Even so, gardeners are already presented with good choices. We are drawn to these
unusual plants because they lend an aura of mystery to the shadier parts of the garden; every
aspect of their development is fascinating to watch.
Arisaemas grow from underground tubers of various shapes; these provide clues to identi-
fication. The foliage is attractive, emerging from papery sheaths around the pseudostem, and
often the leaves are held above the inflorescence like an umbrella. The leaf stem itself is often
attractively mottled and the leaves, sometimes variegated, can produce five to twenty leaflets,
though only one to three leaves are produced from the tuber. The inflorescence is the crowning
glory. It is constructed of an ornamental bract called a spathe, within which is a tubelike spadix
carrying the reproductive parts. The spathe can taper to a threadlike appendage, which can wave
above the plant or arch over to the ground; it is thought that this may be connected with polli-
nation. Lastly, from the female flowers, come attractive bright red or orange fruit in fall. Aris-
aemas protect themselves by being very poisonous. It is doubtful that the garden designer would
choose to include a drift of arisaemas, but hidden under trees, in pockets of part shade, nothing
equals the arisaema in its ability to cause astonishment, smiles, or quizzical second glances.
Arisaemas do well in woodland gardens. The main problem is protecting their location after
they go dormant; we use a small tripod of thin green stakes, which also helps to support the plant
as it grows up the next year. It doesn’t hurt to enrich the soil regularly, and after the tubers have
been planted out in late January, the anticipation begins and increases from then on. What fun.
~ Susan Buckles

72 Arisaema
Arisaema sikokianum.
Scientific Name: Greek aron (“arum”) and haema (“blood”), referring to the red-blotched
leaves.
Common Name: Cobra lily, Jack-in-the-pulpit.
Origin: China, Japan, North America, Korea, Himalayas.
Preferred Conditions: Cool, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Plants need moisture-
retentive soil in spring, but tolerate drought after they go dormant. Avoid boggy or water-
logged conditions.
Management: Plants are late emerging, especially A. candidissimum (late June), and go
dormant in late summer, especially during drought or with excessive heat. Protect leaves of
early flowering forms from late frosts. Remove spent seedheads, clear away old foliage as it
dies back, and mark location. May benefit from a winter mulch.
Propagation: Divide offsets in autumn when dormant (A. sikokianum may take two to four
years to flower, but A. candidissimum multiplies well from offsets). Seed from types that
don’t provide offsets.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails. Some varieties may be victims of predation by voles.
Companions: Ferns, helleborus, hosta, primula, polygonatum, smilacina, disporum, disporopsis.
Notes: Be sure to mark their location and don’t step on the dormant tubers.
033_113_TP.indd 72 1/10/07 11:34:40 AM

Arisaema 73
USDA
Zone
candidissimum 12–16in × 6–9 Hooded white spathe Green, broad, 3-lobed, Late to emerge,
24in with pink stripes, glossy orange seeds, RHS
white spadix, fragrant Award
(M)
consanguineum 2½–4ft × 2ft 7–9 Green spathe with a Large, green, peltate Red fruit
long tail (E)
flavum 12in × 8in 6–9 Variable small green Green, tripartite Small in stature
flower, yellow canopy,
tightly hooded green
and white spathe
spotted purple inside,
short spadix (M)
griffithii 2ft × 2ft 7–9 Dark purple, striped Green, trifoliate, deeply Spathe up to 3in
white, rolled, corrugated, often with wide, spadix has a
cobralike spathe a sheen whip 2ft long
(E–M)
jacquemontii 12–18in × 18in 6–9 Narrow green spathe, 1–2 green palmate leaves
light green inside, with 3–9 leaflets
white stripes, base is
dark purple, purple
spadix (M)
ringens 2½–3ft × 2ft 6–9 Hooded green spathe, Green, glossy, coarse Japanese cobra lily
purple stripes and 3-lobed leaves with
white tips, green ovate leaflets
spadix (M)
sikokianum 12–24in × 5–9 Hooded purple, Green, 2 leaves, Japanese cobra lily,
18in maroon, and white 5-lobed, bordered in red fruit, spathe is
spathe, striped green pink, may age with pure white inside
and brown, spadix is silvery markings
white (E)
speciosum 2ft × 2ft 7–9 Large hooded spathe, Rich green edged in
maroon inside, red-brown, 3-lobed
green-striped outside, 18in-wide
creamy-white spadix
(M)
taiwanense 3ft × 2ft 6–9 Hooded purple Green, peltate, long, Stems are mottled
spathe with long narrow, deeply divided like snakeskin,
white spadix (E) maroon and green
tortuosum 4–5ft × 2ft 6–9 Hooded green spathe, Green, 2 leaves, 3-lobed, Snakeskinlike stems
long purple spadix divided into 5–17 elliptic
(sometimes green) leaflets
(E–M)
triphyllum 12–24in × 4–9 Hooded, green Green, 2 leaves, 3-lobed, Jack in the pulpit,
18in spathe, purple striped narrow-oblong to ovate orange to red berries,
inside, greenish leaflets U.S. native
brown spadix (E–M)

74 Arisarum
Arisarum proboscideum.
ARISARUM Araceae
You will know the mouse plant by its tail. Extending beyond the shiny green leaves is a long,
black, narrow protuberance that looks for all the world like a tail. Given a clump, which is the
usual situation, it looks like a mouse convention. If you look closely you will see that the tail is
the termination of a quite lovely maroon and white spathe. Come summer they disappear, to
reappear next spring in greater numbers and in new spaces. Children of all ages enjoy this plant.
~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From arisaron, the Greek name for Arisarum vulgare (now Dracunculus
vulgaris), a tuberous herb mentioned by Dioscorides.
Common Name: Mouse plant.
Origin: Italy, Spain.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, cool, humus-rich, moisture-retentive soil.
Light: Part shade.
Management: Remove dead foliage and tidy up in winter. May suffer in a severe winter; mulch
will help.
Propagation: Division of clumps in autumn and winter or during summer dormancy.
Companions: Ferns, primula, Polygonatum humile, small cyclamen, Viola cornuta.
USDA
Zone
proboscideum 4–6in × 7–9 Hooded spathe, dark Small, shiny, dark green, Mouse plant,
8–10in purplish brown above, arrow-shaped clump-forming
gray-green beneath
with a long, thin,
black curled tip (E)

Armeria 75
Armeria alliacea.
ARMERIA Plumbaginaceae
Thrift is a common evergreen perennial along the coastlines of Portugal, Spain, and North
America. Looking like tufts of grass with round clusters of small pink flowers on thin straight
stems, these are clumping and very hardy. There are two main groups: the rock garden types and
the larger forms, which actually make good cut flowers. The smaller types can form large, almost
woody mats that, like dianthus, may get a bit bald in the center and will need to be repropagated
or replaced. Divisions in the usual manner are not practical, because they do not always root
down as they spread. Tuck them among rocks in locations with full sun and even poor soil, and
they will bloom heavily.
The larger forms (A. alliacea, A. ‘Bee’s Ruby’, A. pseudarmeria, A. ‘Ornament’) are the more
standard herbaceous perennials. The large-leaved armerias, as with kniphofia, are best left alone
over the winter and only cleaned up a bit in spring. Never cut back hard. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Latin for a cluster-headed dianthus.

Common Name: Thrift, sea pink.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained soil, not too rich. Will not tolerate wet feet.
USDA
Zone
alliacea (syn. 1–1½ft × 3–9 White to pale pink to Broad, grassy, may turn Plantain thrift
plantaginea) 1½ft deep rose (E–M) reddish in winter
‘Bee’s Ruby’ 1–2ft × 1½ft+ 4–9 Bright pink to reddish Narrow, lanceolate, dark Clump-forming, good
purple (E) green cut, RHS Award

76 Armoracia
USDA
Zone
juniperifolia 2–4in × 4–8 Tiny, soft pink to Tight rosettes, gray- Spanish thrift, mat-
4–24in white (E–M) green, hairy, stiff forming, RHS Award
j. ‘Bevan’s Variety’ 2–3in × 5–8 Deep rose-pink Grassy, dark green, tight Alpine thrift, RHS
4–24in (E–M) rosettes Award
maritima 6–12in × 3–9 Rose-pink (E–M) Narrow, stiff, dark green Common thrift, sea
12in+ thrift, long-blooming
m. ‘Alba’ 6–10in × 3–9 White (E–M) Dark bluish green Long-blooming
10in+
m. ‘Bloodstone’ 6–10in × 3–9 Dark rose-red (E–M) As above Long-blooming
10in+
m. ‘Cottontail’ 8in+ × 12in 3–9 White (M) Dark green, glossy
m. ‘Düsseldorfer 8–10in × 3–9 Bright rose-red Dark bluish green Good rebloomer
Stolz’ 10in+ (E–M)
m. ‘Rubrifolia’ 8–10in × 8in+ 3–9 Deep rosy-pink Reddish purple or Will rebloom
(E–M) burgundy, grassy
m. ‘Splendens’ 6–10in × 10in 3–9 Bright reddish pink Narrow, bluish green Good cut
(E–M)
‘Ornament’ 1–1½ft × 18in 4–9 White to dark pink to Narrow, straplike, dark As above
red, large (E–M) bluish green
pseudarmeria 1–2ft × 18in 4–9 White, pale pink, and Mid-green, toothed, Pinball thrift, good
hybrids lilac to red (E–M) veined, lanceolate cut
Management: Cut off flowers and stems immediately after the flowers fade, and they will
rebloom. Replace plants after they become loose and straggly. In the spring, poke pieces of
stem into soil, where they will root. Long, straggly stems can either be layered or removed
from the plant and poked.
Propagation: Seed and layering.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, rust.
Companions: Santolina, thymus, sempervivum, sedum, Pacific Coast iris, saxifraga, lavandula,
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Eryngium maritimum. Use as an edging plant or groundcover.
Notes: Height in chart is flower stem length.
ARMORACIA Brassicaceae
This horseradish is for the lover of variegation who has everything. Irregular patches of cream
on upright, coarse green leaves! It does have a presence in the garden. Perhaps an ornament for
the vegetable patch, or grow it with the variegated Alaska Series nasturtium and scarlet runner
beans. This plant is a chimera; the cells that determine its variegation are at the root/top growth
junction. Root cuttings will not be variegated, nor is the variegation stable. Still, it is worth
growing. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name of a related plant.

Common Name: Horseradish.
Origin: Southeastern Europe.

Armoracia 77
Armoracia rusticana ‘Variegata’.
Preferred Conditions: Rich, fertile, moist soil. It survives in dry, not-so-fertile soil but will not
produce as much root mass.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Grows best if soil is loosened to a depth of at least two feet. This is a deep, aggressive
rooter!
Management: Can be an aggressive spreader. Keep plant contained, or dig up entire plant
every year or so. Be sure to remove all the roots. Replant only a few roots or crown divisions.
Cut foliage down when dormant.
Propagation: Division when dormant; tissue culture.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs really can make this plant very unattractive.
Companions: Grasses, crambe, Campanula glomerata var. alba, Iris foetidissima, Nicotiana
alata, and sushi.
Notes: Be patient, they are often not variegated very much for the first two years.
USDA
Zone
rusticana 3ft × 2½ft 5–8 Probably won’t Broad, wavy, splashed Forms a dense,
‘Variegata’ flower, but don’t let it with irregular bright rounded mound
green and white
markings

78 Artemisia
ARTEMISIA Asteraceae
Jelitto and Schacht’s Hardy Herbaceous Perennials (1990)

lists twenty-seven species of artemisias, including annuals,
biennials, and perennials. Graham Stuart Thomas (1990)
describes eleven gardenworthy perennial artemisias, most
having the recognizable qualities of silver or gray aromatic
foliage with soft hairs on one or both sides of the leaves
and small yellow composite flowers. Artemisias have long
been cultivated for other qualities too, particularly for their
medicinal or herbal properties. They are more suited to the
herb garden than the perennial border, but some are hand-
some, erect semi-woody small shrubs that deserve a place
as an ornamental, growing best in hot, dry situations in
sandy soil. The best ones to incorporate in the border are
A. ‘Powis Castle’, A. ‘Huntington’, and A. lactiflora Guizhou
Group. Almost all the others we list are invasive and require
control to maintain their place in the society of plants.
You can always find a spot for artemisias. Combine
A. ludoviciana ‘Silver Queen’ with alstroemeria in a parking
strip and throw in a bit of crocosmia. Some work wonders
in a fresh or dried floral arrangement. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: After the Greek goddess Artemis.

Common Name: Wormwood, mugwort.
Origin: Europe, North America, North Africa, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Poor to average, well-drained, light
soil. Drought tolerant once established. Tolerant of
Artemisia ludoviciana ‘Valerie Finnis’.
rocky, dry exposure or cool, foggy coastal climates.
Adaptable to many garden environments. Doesn’t do well in wet, soggy areas.
Light: Sun.
Planting: A handful of soft rock phosphate will boost root growth. Compost or sand can be
added to heavy clay soils to improve the tilth.
Management: Large shrubby artemisias should be cut back to six to twelve inches from ground
level in spring, and the dwarf forms just given a trim to tidy up. You can cut some back to
prevent blooming (e.g., A. ludoviciana ‘Valerie Finnis’, A. ‘Powis Castle’, A. alba ‘Canescens’).
Some cultivars can be helped with gravel or crushed rock mulch. Herbaceous forms should
be cut down completely when foliage is dead. All except A. lactiflora have inconspicuous
flowers at best. At worst, flowers are ugly and detract from the foliage; flowering stems are
best removed as soon as they appear.
Propagation: Division in spring. Most are easily divided (exceptions are A. absinthium
‘Lambrook Silver’ and A. ‘Powis Castle’). Take cuttings in spring; and for the woody forms,
cuttings only.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, rust (A. lactiflora), aphids (A. absinthium ‘Lambrook Silver’,
A. ‘Powis Castle’).
Companions: Ornamental grasses, lilies, white flowers, allium, aster, sedum, nepeta.
Notes: Don’t fertilize, and artemisias will live longer in the garden. This includes manure
mulch. A hard prune in the fall can kill most of the shrubby forms.

Artemisia 79
Artemisia ‘Huntington’ with Agastache ‘Apricot Sunrise’, ×Solidaster luteus, Ruta graveolens, a helianthus cultivar
in flower and Helianthus maximiliani (above).
USDA
Zone
abrotanum 3–4ft × 2ft 5–10 Yellowish, Woody, multibranched, Southernwood, prune
insignificant (M–L) gray-green, fernlike, in spring, may benefit
aromatic subshrub from a midsummer
clip, RHS Award
absinthium 2–4ft × 2ft 5–10 Yellow-gray (M–L) Silvery gray-green, Common wormwood,
coarse, feathery, keep pruned for best
aromatic shape, evergreen
a. ‘Lambrook Silver’ 2½–3ft × 3ft 5–10 Grayish white sprays Delicate and airy Cut back flower
(M) clumps of silky-gray shoots, evergreen,
divided leaves RHS Award
alba ‘Canescens’ 10in × 18in 5–10 Small, yellow (M) Silver, threadlike, and Good groundcover,
lacy on woody stems needs good drainage,
remove flowers, RHS
Award

80 Artemisia
USDA
Zone
‘Beth Chatto’ 15–18in × 5–9 Insignificant (M) Silvery, low, dense Good groundcover,
18in+ needs good drainage
‘Huntington’ 3–4ft × 3ft+ 6–10 Tiny, insignificant Lacy, loose, silver Well-drained, cut
(L) leaves, upright, bushy, back to 6in in spring
woody plant as new growth starts
lactiflora 4–6ft × 2ft 5–10 Creamy-white Dark green, ferny, paler White mugwort,
plumes on sturdy beneath looks like a tall astilbe,
erect stems, fragrant prefers heavier
(M–L) moisture-retentive
soil, herbaceous
perennial, RHS
Award
l. Guizhou Group 4–6ft × 2ft 5–10 Ivory-white on Blackish green, Likes a richer, moist
dark purple stems, dissected, coarse, on soil, tolerates part
fragrant, astilbelike black stems shade, herbaceous
plumes (M–L) perennial
ludoviciana 4ft × 3ft 5–10 Yellow-white, Silver-gray, willowy, Western mugwort,
insignificant (M) aromatic, bushy on this and its selections
slender erect stems are best artemisias
for cutting, all
are herbaceous
perennials
l. ‘Silver King’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–10 Silver-white, Long, narrow, Spreading habit, cut
insignificant (M–L) silver-white to ground in fall
l. ‘Silver Queen’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 5–10 Insignificant, seldom Low mound, Best of the
produced (M–L) silver-white ludovicianas for cut
flowers, RHS Award
l. ‘Valerie Finnis’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–10 Tiny, insignificant Large, silver-white, Cut mature plants to
(M) felty, jagged ground midsummer,
will reappear at lower
height, RHS Award
‘Powis Castle’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 6–10 As above Finely cut, silver-gray, Responds well to
shrubby woody plant pruning in late winter
to 1ft. May be short-
lived in rich soils and
hard winters, RHS
Award
schmidtiana ‘Silver 1ft × 1ft 5–10 White, insignificant Silver, velvety, fernlike, May need cutting
Mound’ (M) aromatic, compact back in midsummer,
short-lived, likes
good drainage,
herbaceous perennial
stelleriana 1½–2½ft × 5–10 Tiny, yellowish on Grayish white, felty, Beach wormwood,
2ft+ gray stems (M) chrysanthemumlike, rock garden plant,
evergreen in mild sensitive to winter
climates wet, semi-herbaceous
perennial, cut back in
spring
s. ‘Boughton 6–10in × 2ft+ 5–10 White, insignificant Silver with a hint of Groundcover or
Silver’ (syn. ‘Silver (M–L) green, felty, evergreen edging plant, like it
Brocade’) in mild climates dry, compact
versicolor 1ft × 3ft 5–10 Insignificant (M) Pale, gray, curly with a Dwarf, foliage
blue-green cast, woody dries well for
at base arrangements

Arum 81
ARUM Araceae
Arums are indispensable winter plants. In early winter

one or two leaves appear and remain attractive all through
the season. Once established, the clumps can become very
dense and leafy. The arrow-shaped leaves are narrow or
wide, veined in silver or mottled with yellow; some have
black spots. They cover the ground when we need it and
last well in floral arrangements. The inflorescence—which
consists of a yellowish or greenish white shaft (or spadix)
surrounded by a greenish white hood (or spathe)—appears
in spring. In fall, the spadix stands alone (the leaves having
gone dormant), covered with red-orange berries. A dramatic
sight! In a perfect year, the combination of new leaves and
bright fruit is a delight in late fall and early winter.
Arums take some time to establish but will colonize
summer-dry spaces in either sun or shade over time. Beware,
all parts of the plant are poisonous. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek aron, the name for these
poisonous plants.
Common Name: Lords and ladies, cuckoo pint.
Origin: Britain, Europe, Crete, Italy, North Africa, Turkey.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, well-drained, humus-rich
soil. Keep them moist but don’t overwater during
summer dormancy.
Light: Part shade to shade, sun in winter. Will take sun in
summer with adequate water.
Management: Arums are a low-maintenance plant. Arum creticum.
Organic mulch may be applied in autumn. Clumps
eventually become large and begin to spread, and
an aggressive spading program only aggravates this problem. To control some spreading,
harvest seed when stems collapse. Remove dead foliage and leave fruiting stems.
Propagation: Division in early fall during dormancy. In early spring, separate offsets and
replant. Needs to form a good-sized tuber to produce seed, and seed can take a year to
germinate.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails.
Companions: Astilbe, epimedium, hosta, ferns, snowdrops and other early bulbs, Helleborus
orientalis, H. foetidus, Vancouveria planipetala, xanthorhiza, disporum, Smilacina racemosa.
Notes: Arum italicum can get quite dry in late summer with no harmful effects.
USDA
Zone
creticum 1–1½ft × 1½ft 7–9 Yellow spadix, Rich, dark green, shiny, Dormant June
creamy white or unmarked, more narrow through September,
deep yellow spathe, orange-red berries
greenish white inside,
fragrant (E)
italicum 12–20in × 6–9 Creamy-yellow Glossy, green with Orange-red berries
24in spadix, greenish white stripes and marbling of in late summer
spathe with purple cream
base, some spots (E)

82 Aruncus
USDA
Zone
i. subsp. italicum 1–1½ft × 1½ft 6–9 Bright yellow spadix, Broad, rich dark green Red-orange berries,
‘Marmoratum’ pale green and white with gray marbling and RHS Award
(syn. ‘Pictum’) spathe (E) veining
i. subsp. italicum 1–1½ft × 6–9 As above Wider, dark green with Heavy orange-red
‘Spotted Jack’ (syn. 1½ft+ marbling and veining fruit
‘Jack Sprat’)
i. subsp. italicum <8in × 8in 6–9 As above Small dark green leaves Orange fruit
‘Tiny’
i. subsp. italicum <1ft × 1ft 6–9 As above Very slender, with bold Orange fruit, best
‘White Winter’ markings, more white foliage cultivar
than green
maculatum 1–1½ft × 1ft 6–9 Yellow spadix, Glossy, dark green, Lords and ladies,
whitish green spathe spotted purple, much coral-red berries,
with red spots (E) larger than A. italicum aggressive
ARUNCUS Rosaceae
The two species of aruncus have in common their deeply cut foliage and terminal plumes of
creamy white flowers in summer. They differ in size. Aruncus dioicus is a very tall plant that
grows slowly at first but eventually reaches a spread of four feet—and it’s not easy to divide! The
plant is dioecious, and the male flowers are more attractive. Seedheads of female plants reach
their peak in the fall. Aruncus aethusifolius is very similar to a dwarf astilbe in both form and
flower, with a less pronounced difference between males and females; it will seed about in some
locations. ~ Ann Bucher
Aruncus dioicus
‘Kneiffii’.

Aruncus 83
Aruncus dioicus with Geranium psilostemon and Rosa glauca (background, top right). Design by Ann Lovejoy.
USDA
Zone
aethusifolius 8–12in × 12in+ 3–9 Clusters of tiny white Deeply cut, olive-green, Clump-forming,
spikes (M) good fall color good container,
groundcover, and
rock garden plant,
self-sows, RHS
Award
dioicus 4–7ft × 3–4ft 3–9 Cream (M) Light green West Coast wild
astilbe, tallest form,
RHS Award
d. ‘Glasnevin’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Creamy-white plumes Light green, finer than
(M) species
d. ‘Kneiffii’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Creamy-white plumes Extremely finely divided Grown for the
(E) foliage
d. ‘Zweiweltenkind’ 4–6ft × 3–9 White, drooping Light green, finely Clump-forming
3–3½ft plumes (M) divided, dense, bushy

84 Asarum
Scientific Name: From the Latin aruncus (“beard of a goat”).

Common Name: Goatsbeard.
Preferred Conditions: Tolerates any soil that retains moisture. Drought tolerant once
established.
Light: Part shade to shade for A. dioicus. Sun for A. aethusifolius (better fall color).
Planting: Plants are dioecious; select for the males.
Management: Cut to the ground in autumn when it dies back. If leaf scorch develops, remove
leaves.
Propagation: Division in early spring and fall when dormant. Roots are tough and hard to cut.
Seed.
Pests and Diseases: None of consequence.
Companions: Campanula latiloba, shrub roses; it’s good as a specimen plant, for the more wild
parts of the garden, or the back of the perennial border.
Notes: Tolerates root competition from other plants if soil is moist. Seedheads make a nice fall
display.
ASARUM Aristolochiaceae
Asarums are ideal groundcovers for shaded areas in the garden. The heart-shaped leaves may
be deciduous, semi-deciduous, or evergreen, depending on the species and your climate; some
have handsome markings. The small cup-shaped flowers are mostly hidden under the leaves but
are worth searching for and last well when picked. Plants spread by seed and rhizomes, slowly
at first. Crush the plant, and you will smell the sweet ginger scent that gives it its common name.
~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From asaron, the name Dioscorides used for this genus.
Common Name: Hardy ginger.
Origin: Europe, East Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, rich, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil that is slightly acid.
Tolerates dry shade once established.
Planting: Slow growers; will take several years to establish and form a good clump. Don’t plant
too deep.
Management: Asarum needs little care, except for slug patrol. They never require division but
can be divided for propagation purposes. Groom as needed. In summer, cutting back for
regeneration needs to be followed by a heavy fertilization and watering.
Propagation: Divide in spring or fall (especially the native species).
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails. This plant is a slug magnet, which explains why they are
difficult to establish. There may be some forms the slugs do not like as much as others.
Companions: Ferns, rhododendron, trillium, hosta, ajuga, vancouveria, astilbe, polygonatum.
Notes: All but A. canadense are evergreen for us, and A. shuttleworthii seems to object to our
cooler summers. New species and varieties, including a rare white-flowering clone of
A. caudatum, are appearing from Japan, China and North America.

Asarum 85
Asarum caudatum.
USDA
Zone
canadense 6–8in × 30in+ 3–9 Brownish purple (E) Light, dull green, Snakeroot, drought
cordate, velvety tolerant, vigorous
caudatum 7–10in × 3–9 Brownish purple, Semi-glossy, gray, Canadian wild
30in+ bell-shaped (E) cordate, hairy stems ginger, spreads
europaeum 6–8in × 10in+ 3–9 Greenish purple (E) Glossy, deep rich green, European wild
cordate, leathery, ginger, spreads
clumps slowly
hartwegii 1ft × 1ft 6–10 Brownish red, Cordate, shiny, dark Very slow-growing,
fragrant (E) green with silver slug magnet
markings, clumps
shuttleworthii 4–9in × 9in 6–9 Brown to blood-red, Cordate, mottled with Hexastylis wild
spotted (E) silver, semi-glossy, ginger, very shade
clumps tolerant
splendens 8in × 12in+ 6–9 Dark purple (E) Large, dark green with Chinese wild ginger,
silver mottling vigorous, easy to
grow

86 Asclepias
ASCLEPIAS Asclepiadaceae
All the milkweeds we discuss are host to monarch butterfly

larvae (A. speciosa, which typically grows east of the
Cascade Mountains, is their primary food). Most garden
asclepias, grown for their flower color, are A. incarnata or
A. tuberosa. The inflorescence is a dense cluster of small
star-shaped flowers, in pink, white, orange, or red. They
bloom for a long time and make good cut flowers. The
long narrow seedpods, filled with silky winged seeds, are
also attractive. But beware, the stiff, narrow-leaved foliage
contains latex, which can be a skin irritant. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After the Greek god of medicine,

Asklepios.
Common Name: Milkweed, butterfly weed.
Origin: North and South America, central and southern
Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, average to poor soil.
These plants need heat, plant them in your warmest spot.
Light: Sun. Tolerates part shade.
Planting: Heavy shade or rich conditions will lead to
floppy stems. The thick roots can be damaged during
Asclepias physocarpa.
transplanting; it’s best to transplant young plants and
handle them very carefully. They can be difficult to establish.
Management: Late to emerge in spring, so good labeling (or leaving their stalks on) will help
to remind you where they are. They don’t like to be disturbed. If you don’t want to collect
seed or to dry the seedpods, deadheading will encourage new bloom. Cut down in late fall
after foliage dies back.
Propagation: Cuttings or seed. Set out young plants in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, slugs in early spring. Butterfly larvae are not considered pests on
this plant!
Companions: Salvia, aster, echinacea, kniphofia, other prairie plants.
USDA
Zone
‘Cinderella’ 3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pink (M) Green
incarnata 4–5ft × 2ft 3–9 Dusty pink, sweet Green, densely branched Swamp milkweed,
scent (M) thick stems grows in varying sites
from boggy to dry
i. ‘Ice Ballet’ 3ft × 2ft 3–9 Tiny white clusters Rich green Long-lasting cut,
(M) tolerates dry site
i. ‘Soulmate’ 3ft × 2ft 3–9 Deep rose (M) As above As above
physocarpa (syn. 4–5ft × 2ft 5–9 White (M–L) Green Fuzzy inflated
Gomphocarpus seedpods, a bit
physocarpa) tender
speciosa 3ft × 2ft 3–9 Pink (M–L) Green, heavy, very milky Big seedpods
when broken
tuberosa 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Large orange clusters Green, fuzzy, narrow Butterfly weed, most
(L) common variety
t. ‘Gay Butterflies’ 2ft × 2ft 3–9 Mix of red, orange, Fuzzy, green
and yellow (M)

Asphodeline 87
ASPHODELINE Asphodelaceae
King’s spear is indeed an apt common name for A. lutea.

The starlike gold flowers are evenly distributed on a two-
to three-foot spike above the foliage. I particularly like
the foliage, which is evergreen—or in this case everblue,
narrow, curly, and low-arching. I also appreciate the fact
that this plant thrives in my dry, sandy soil; when grown in
heavy, rich soil, the flower spikes get quite tall and can lean
over a bit too much—giving us the king’s spear. The seed
spikes are nice in dried arrangements. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: Sometimes associated with Homer’s

Elysian Fields and the Greek plant Asphodel.
Common Name: Jacob’s rod, yellow asphodel, king’s
spear.
Origin: Mediterranean region.
Preferred Conditions: Poor, well-drained, lightweight
soil.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant in spring or fall in a sunny position.
Management: Leave the stems on after flowering for glob-
ular seedpods. Remove ragged leaves as necessary. This
species is evergreen and cannot be cut back. Plants need
frequent division to stay attractive; this will keep them
vigorous, tidy, and flowering. Very slow to increase. Will
self-sow but is not a nuisance.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs in early spring.
Companions: Ceanothus, euphorbia, thermopsis, Alche-
milla mollis, baptisia, salvia (tall forms).
Asphodeline lutea.
USDA
Zone
lutea 3–4ft × 2ft 6–10 Star-shaped, yellow, Bluish gray-green, very Stiff upright stems,
emerging from narrow, arching clump-forming
buff-colored bracts
(E–M)

88 Aster
Aster novi-belgii cultivars with Verbena bonariensis, Berberis jamesiana in fall color, and Rosa rubiginosa with its
hips just visible behind.
ASTER Asteraceae
One thing is certain, the impossibility of having just one aster. A collection of asters, in all colors
and varied heights, is a joy to behold, though the similarity of their small leaves, which are not
particularly attractive, is a minor drawback to the display. Most asters flower together, at a time
of year when we look for any color to dispel the coming of late fall and winter. We think of them
as close to being wild plants, usually found in meadows or waste ground. The species are tough
colonizers and survivors. Even the modern hybrids look uneasy in a strictly regulated border,
and go better with thistly things, in cottage gardens.
On the whole asters are sun-loving and require good drainage. Most are not good for cutting as
they are short-lived in the vase, but the larger single flowers of such a plant as A. ×frikartii will last
several days. Clumps of asters can be left to go dormant gracefully, their seedheads forming clouds of
small, fluffy balls that look good after a hard frost. We like best the dark stems and leaves of A. laevis
‘Calliope’ or A. lateriflorus ‘Prince’ and, as for the flowers, the good clear pink A. novi-belgii ‘Fellow-
ship’ cannot be bettered. We would not be without any of our asters, tamed or wild. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek aster (“star”), a reference to the starlike flowers.
Common Name: Michaelmas daisy.
033_113_TP.indd 88
Aster 89
Aster sedifolius ‘Nanus’.
Origin: Africa, Eurasia, northeastern United States, Canada, South America.

Preferred Conditions: Average, well-drained, humus-rich soil in south-facing beds. Tolerates
sand or clay. Aster ×frikartii and A. amellus prefer alkaline soil; others do best in neutral soil.
All need prairie conditions with summer water and good air circulation to prevent mildew.
Light: Sun. Tolerates some high canopy shade.
Planting: Lift and divide asters frequently and replant directly in refreshed soil mix to keep
plants young and vigorous.
Management: For more dense, compact plants, asters (A. novi-belgii, A. novae-angliae) should
be pinched back on 1 July (earlier for A. ×frikartii). Do not let them dry out! Novi-belgii asters
in particular are very susceptible to mildew if allowed to dry out. Cut back completely in fall
when new growth shows at base. Bait crown for slugs in winter and early spring.
Propagation: Division in spring and soft tip cuttings, or seed (rarely).
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, slugs, rabbits. None are slug or rabbit proof.
Companions: Grasses, old roses, Japanese anemones, Phlox paniculata, sedum, fennel, solidago,
coreopsis, rudbeckia, monarda, aconitum, late kniphofias, hardy fuchsias, salvia. Asters look
best in large groups; there is nothing like an aster border for that autumn show.
Notes: A wilt from lack of water when in full growth will trigger a bad case of mildew. Be
vigilant with summer water. Aster novae-angliae (New England aster) is the most mildew
resistant for us. If given space almost all asters will cover a larger area than we show on the
chart, except for A. ×frikartii and cultivars.
USDA
Zone
amellus 2ft × 1½ft 4–7 Violet-blue, pale to Green, lanceolate to Needs lime in the
deep purplish pink, obovate Northwest
yellow disk (L)
a. ‘King George’ 1½–2ft × 4–7 Rich purple-blue, Gray-green, well- RHS Award
1½ft large, orange disk branched lax stems
(M–L)

90 Aster
USDA
Zone
a. ‘Veilchenkönigin’ 2½ft × 1½ft 4–7 Deep violet, yellow Deep green, small, RHS Award
(syn. ‘Violet disk (M–L) narrow, on short bushy
Queen’) branches
‘Cape Cod’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–7 Tiny white sprays (L) Green One of latest to
bloom, mildew
resistant, good cut,
no staking
‘Climax’ 4½–6ft × 2ft 4–7 Lavender-blue, pale Broad, rich green, Mildew resistant,
yellow disk (L) purple stems good cut
‘Coombe Fishacre’ 4ft × 2ft 4–7 Pale purple-pink, Green Mildew resistant
turning red, darker
eye (M)
cordifolius 4ft × 2ft 4–7 Lavender-blue, Dull green, thin, slightly Tolerant of some
sometimes almost hairy shade
white, yellow disk
turning red (M–L)
divaricatus 1½–2½ft 4–7 White rays, yellow Dark green, cordate, White wood aster,
× 2ft disk turning brown coarsely serrated, dark tolerates shade and
(M–L) stems dry soil, flops but
nicely
ericoides 3ft × 1ft 4–7 White sprays, Slender, green, on bushy Heath aster
sometimes tinged branched sprays
pink, yellow center
(M–L)
e. ‘Blue Star’ 2–3ft × 1ft 4–7 Light lavender-blue, Tiny, green, bushy RHS Award
yellow center (M–L) mounding habit
e. ‘Pink Cloud’ 3ft × 1ft 4–7 Pastel pink, yellow As above RHS Award
center (M–L)
e. f. prostratus 6in × 10in 4–9 White with tiny Tiny green, on bright Floriferous carpet,
‘Snow Flurry’ green gold center green stems RHS Award
(M–L)
×frikartii 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Lavender-blue, Dark green A summer bloomer
×f. ‘Flora’s Delight’ 1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Lilac, paling with age, As above More compact
×f. ‘Jungfrau’ 2ft × 1½ft 4–9 Violet, gold center Deep green, reddish
(M–L) stems
×f. ‘Mönch’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Lavender-blue, Fuzzy, green RHS Award
golden center (M–L)
×f. ‘Wunder von 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Large, violet-blue Green Least desirable of
Stäfa’ with gold center A. ×frikartii
(M–L) cultivars, RHS
Award
‘Kylie’ 2ft × 1½ft 4–7 Small, pale pink on As above Strong clumps, RHS
wiry tall spires (L) Award
laevis 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–8 Lavender to violet, Blue-green, smooth, Smooth aster,
yellow center (M–L) mostly toothless clump-forming

Aster 91
USDA
Zone
l. ‘Calliope’ 5–6ft × 1½ft 4–7 Single lilac-purple in Purple-tinted shoots, Clump-forming,
an open spire, yellow rich dark green, thick mildew resistant
center (M–L) and waxy
lateriflorus 3–3½ft × 4–8 White to pale purple Tiny, toothed, lanceolate Sturdy, compact,
1½ft with a maroon and to elliptical slender stems
l. var. horizontalis 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 White reflexed rays, Small, toothed, Wide-spreading,
pink center turning lanceolate to elliptical, RHS Award
deep reddish purple purple-tinted in spring
(M–L)
l. ‘Lady in Black’ 3–4½ft × 4–8 White, star-shaped, Tiny, black-purple, Compact clumps
1½ft+ rays tinted pink, deep bronze in spring with open sprays,
rose-pink center upright
(M–L)
l. ‘Prince’ 2–3ft × 1½ft+ 4–8 White, reflexed rays, Rich purple-black, Compact clumps,
pink center (M–L) toothed, dark stems upright
‘Little Carlow’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Bright lavender-blue, Deep green, broader Strong clumps, RHS
(cordifolius yellow center (M–L) Award
hybrid)
‘Little Dorrit’ 4ft × 1½ft+ 4–9 Light pink (L) Deep green, lanceolate Vigorous clumps,
(cordifolius RHS Award
hybrid)
novae-angliae 3–6ft × 2ft 4–8 Range from pink to Narrow, rough, dull pale New England aster,
purple and blue, gold green, hairy mildew resistant
center (M–L)
n. ‘Andenken an 3–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Red-violet rays, gold Bright green, broad, Distinctive color,
Alma Pötschke’ center (M–L) linear or lanceolate, RHS Award
hairy
n. ‘Harrington’s 4ft × 2ft 4–8 Light rose-pink Green, linear or A true pink, RHS
Pink’ (M–L) lanceolate, hairy Award
n. ‘Hella Lacy’ 2–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Deep violet-purple, Dark green, lanceolate, Strong clumps
yellow-gold center hairy
(M–L)
n. 4–5ft × 2ft 4–8 Rich purple-red, As above Compact clumps
‘Septemberrubin’ large, gold center
(M–L)
n. ‘Treasure’ 4½ft × 2ft 4–8 Light violet, large Green
(M–L)
novi-belgii 1–1½ft × 3ft 4–8 Purple, pink, blue, Green, lanceolate, New York aster,
red, or white, gold toothed mildew is a problem,
center (M–L) clump-forming
n. ‘Alert’ 1–1½ft × 3ft 4–8 Rich purple-red, Green
yellow center, semi-
double (M–L)
n. ‘Coombe Violet’ 4ft × 3ft 4–8 Deep violet-blue (L) Small, narrow, mid to May need staking
dark green

92 Aster
USDA
Zone
n. ‘Fellowship’ 3ft+ × 3ft 4–8 Pale pink, double, Green Requires more water
large (M–L) than most, may need
staking
n. ‘Lady in Blue’ 1ft × 3ft 4–8 Lavender-blue (M–L) Fine, green Good dwarf cultivar,
strong tight clumps
n. ‘Patricia Ballard’ 3ft × 3ft 4–8 Bright mauve-pink, Green Vigorous clumps,
large, double (L) open sprays
n. ‘Peter Harrison’ 2½ft × 3ft 4–8 Pale mauve-pink, As above
small, single (L)
n. ‘Priory Blush’ 3½ft × 3ft 4–8 White, tinted pink, As above
small (L)
n. ‘Professor Anton 1–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Lavender-blue, Dark green
Kippenberg’ prominent gold
center (L)
n. ‘Purple Dome’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Deep heather-purple, As above Strong sprays, bushy
semi-double (M–L) branches
n. ‘Schneekissen’ 1ft × 1ft 4–8 Small white rays, Green
(syn. ‘Snow good clean white (L)
Cushion’)
n. ‘Winston S. 1½ft × 1ft 4–8 Unusual purple-red, As above
Churchill’ single, yellow center
(M)
‘Photograph’ 3ft+ × 2ft 4–9 Lavender-blue, airy As above RHS Award
(M–L)
pilosus var. pringlei 3–4ft × 3ft 4–9 Starry white (M–L) Very fine, narrow, Largely grown for
‘Monte Cassino’ asparagus fern–like florists, RHS Award
‘Ringdove’ 3½ft × 3ft 4–9 Pale lavender rays, Long, narrow, green Strong sprays, RHS
(ericoides hybrid) prominent creamy Award
yellow center (L)
sedifolius 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–7 Lavender-blue, pale Divided, gray-green, Mildew resistant,
purple-pink or white narrow, linear dense-growing, may
rays, small pale flop
s. ‘Nanus’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 4–7 Lavender-blue (M–L) Tiny, divided, gray-green Very floriferous,
dense-growing
tataricus ‘Jindai’ 4–5ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Light lavender-blue, Very large, coarse, pale Very floriferous,
prominent yellow green, on hairy stems long-blooming
center (L)
thomsonii ‘Nanus’ 10in × 20in 4–9 Lavender-blue, Pale green, ovate to Clump-forming
yellow center (M) elliptic, coarse
tongolensis 1–1½ft × 1ft 4–9 Lavender-blue, Green, oblong- Spreading
orange center (M) lanceolate, hairy
t. ‘Wartburgstern’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 4–9 Violet-blue, yellow Verdant green on Short-lived in the
(syn. ‘Wartburg center (M–L) reddish stems Pacific Northwest
Star’)
‘White Climax’ 3–5ft × 2ft 4–9 Large, white (M–L) Dark green on black- Doesn’t need staking
purple stems

Astilbe 93
Astilbe ‘Snowdrift’.
ASTILBE Saxifragaceae
The graceful plumelike panicles of this genus adorn the garden in a variety of colors over a long
season. There are early, midseason, and late astilbes, with blooms in shades of red, white, purple,
and pink rising above their ferny foliage. The foliage is almost as much of an attribute as the
flowers are. Most have dark green, ferny or feathery foliage that sometimes emerges with beau-
tiful reddish hues. Others have bronze, reddish brown, or purplish foliage, while a few are light
green. Astilbes range in size from four inches to five feet and are very adaptable to many condi-
tions except summer drought.
Although astilbes are tough plants and thrive in the moist weather of the Northwest, they are
the wrong plants for dry shade, under large fir trees. They will just sit and sulk, have little growth
or bloom and eventually dry up and die, although the low ones seem more tolerant.
There are several large groups with specific characteristics. Astilbe chinensis is vigorous with
dense plumes, a late-season bloomer in shades of horticultural original sin (mauve-magenta);
it and its kin can be short or tall with hairy foliage. Astilbe japonica has large, wide panicles in
the full color range, blooming in midseason or earlier. Astilbe ×arendsii from Georg Arends in
Germany blooms in midseason or earlier in a wide color range; fernlike foliage emerges dark,
with some cultivars keeping the dark or bronze coloring throughout the season. Astilbe simplici-
folia is smaller, with finely divided, shiny foliage and a shorter inflorescence. Astilbe thunbergii
has taller, arching plumes.
Astilbes make an excellent cut flower if harvested when half open. Many are also cut and air-
dried then used in dried floral arrangements. The dried rust-colored seedheads can also be left
on to extend the interest into winter and then removed before new growth begins in the spring.
~ Susan Carter
033_113_TP.indd 93 1/10/07 11:39:20 AM

94 Astilbe
Scientific Name: Greek for “without brilliance.”

Common Name: False spirea.
Origin: Eastern Europe, China, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Acid, humus-rich, moisture-retentive. Doesn’t like it too dry.
Management: Little is required during the growing season except to make sure plants don’t
dry out. They can be mulched but not with fresh manure. When clumps become worn out or
bare and woody in the middle, they can be rejuvenated by lifting the clumps, discarding the
center, and replanting the vigorous pieces from the edge of the clumps. Spent flower heads
can be removed anytime after flowering.
Propagation: Division in late winter to spring. Best to divide when completely dormant. Seed
in February and March—usually takes two years to flower.
Pests and Diseases: Root weevil, especially the chinensis varieties over time. A heavy infesta-
tion of weevils can severely damage the semi-woody crowns of astilbes.
Companions: Hosta, pulmonaria, helleborus, epimedium, ferns, polygonatum, Japanese iris;
particularly effective in groups.
Notes: Do not mulch over the crowns with fresh manure as it can burn the pips and the newly
emerging growth. Astilbes prefer a high-humidity location.
USDA
Zone
‘Amethyst’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 5–8 Clear lilac-pink (M) Dark green, lacy, Good cut flower
(×arendsii) fernlike
‘Anita Pfeifer’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 5–8 Salmon-pink (M) Dark green
(×arendsii)
‘Aphrodite’ 1½ft × 1½ft 5–8 Salmon-red (M–L) Dark bronze Good foliage
(simplicifolia
hybrid)
×arendsii 2–4ft × 1½ft 5–8 Various (M–L) Semi-glossy, feathery, Rarely grown from
green seed
‘Betsy Cuperus’ 4ft × 2ft 5–8 Pale pink on large, Green Spreading habit,
(thunbergii hybrid) gracefully arching good cut
stems (M)
‘Bonn’ ( japonica 1½–2ft × 5–8 Deep carmine-rose Fernlike, green
hybrid) 1½ft (E)
‘Brautschleier’ 2½ft × 1½ft 5–8 White to creamy- Dense, fernlike, green, Profuse bloomer,
(×arendsii) (syn. yellow, open sprays glossy RHS Award
‘Bridal Veil’) (M)
‘Bremen’ ( japonica 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Crimson-rose (E–M) Green
hybrid)
‘Bressingham 3–3½ft × 5–8 Clear pink (M) Mid-green, fernlike Expansive habit
Beauty’ (×arendsii) 1½ft
‘Bronze Elegans’ 12–15in × 12in 5–8 Clear pink with a Bronze-green, shiny Vigorous for a
(simplicifolia salmon tinge (M–L) simplicifolia hybrid,
hybrid) RHS Award
‘Bumalda’ 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 White plumes with a Green
(×arendsii) soft pink tinge (E–M)
‘Cattleya’ 3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Rose-pink on open Leafy, dark green, Vigorous
(×arendsii) spikes (M–L) stems have bronze tint
when young

Astilbe 95
USDA
Zone
chinensis 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Mauve-pink (M–L) Dense with hairy Vigorous, spreading
leaflets, fernlike roots, esp. in fertile
soil
c. var. davidii 4–5ft × 3ft 5–8 Rose-purple on erect Green, divided, A very tall plant,
spikes (M–L) fernlike, in basal needs full sun
rosettes
c. ‘Finale’ 20–24in × 2ft 5–8 Soft pink (M–L) Green, fernlike Vigorous spreading
roots, more drought
tolerant
c. ‘Intermezzo’ 1–2ft × 2ft 5–8 Salmon-pink (M–L) As above
c. var. pumila 8–12in × 10in+ 5–8 Mauve-pink turning As above Tolerant of full sun,
brown while upper short and stout, good
portion is still in edge plant, RHS
bloom (M–L) Award
c. var. taquetii 4ft × 2ft 5–8 Rosy-purple (M–L) Shiny, dark bronze, Striking
‘Purpurlanze’ ferny inflorescence
c. var. taquetii 4ft × 2ft 5–8 Lilac (M–L) Crinkled, red-tinged Tall open
‘Superba’ green, fernlike inflorescence, RHS
Award
c. ‘Veronica Klose’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Dark pink (M–L) Emerges deep green, Vigorous, compact
ages to clear green, growth
coarse
c. ‘Visions’ 15in × 18in 5–8 Mauve-pink (M) Bronze-green, ferny Sun tolerant,
compact grower
×crispa ‘Lilliput’ 8in × 8in 5–8 Salmon-pink (M–L) Dense, glossy, dark Very compact, slow
green
×c. ‘Perkeo’ 8–10in × 8in 5–8 Dark pink on short Delicate, jagged, dark Very compact, slow,
stiff stems (M) green RHS Award
‘Darwin’s Margot’ 20in × 12in 5–8 Rosy-red (E) Green Compact
‘Deutschland’ 20–24in × 5–8 White, fragrant Deep green, glossy Vigorous, full, and
( japonica hybrid) 12in (E–M) large
‘Diamant’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Clear white in narrow Deep green
(×arendsii) plumes (M)
‘Dunkellachs’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 5–8 Rich salmon-pink Coppery, fernlike, shiny Red stems
(simplicifolia (M–L)
hybrid)
‘Düsseldorf’ 20–24in × 5–8 Light crimson-red Green
( japonica hybrid) 12in (M)
‘Elisabeth’ 2–2½ft × 5–8 Raspberry (M) As above
( japonica hybrid) 1½ft
‘Elizabeth Bloom’ 2–2½ft × 5–8 Pure pink (M) Deep, glossy green
(×arendsii) 1½ft
‘Erica’ (×arendsii) 2–2½ft × 5–8 Clear bright pink in Bronze-red aging to
1½ft long, narrow plumes deep green
(M)
‘Etna’ ( japonica 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Dark red (E) Reddish aging to
hybrid) mid-green
‘Europa’ ( japonica 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Pale pink in heavy Mid-green Very floriferous,
hybrid) spikes (E) good cut

96 Astilbe
USDA
Zone
‘Fanal’ (×arendsii) 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Dark crimson-red in Dark reddish brown Best for red foliage,
dense short spikes, aging to green, deeply RHS Award
best landscape red (E) cut
‘Federsee’ 2–2½ft × 5–8 Carmine-rose, large Green Adapts well to dry
(×arendsii) 1½ft full plumes (M) conditions
glaberrima var. 4–8in × 8in 5–8 Shell-pink (M) Glossy, dark green Nice for rock
saxatilis gardens, RHS Award
‘Gloria’ (×arendsii) 1½–2ft × 5–8 Lavender-pink (E–M) Fernlike, green
1½ft
‘Glut’ (×arendsii) 2½–3ft × 5–8 Deep ruby-red, Bronze-red aging to
(syn. ‘Glow’) 1½ft narrow feathery mid-green
spikes (M–L)
‘Granat’ (×arendsii) 3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Garnet-red fading to Purplish bronze aging
pink to green
‘Grete Püngel’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Vivid pink (E–M) Purplish aging to green
(×arendsii)
‘Hennie Graafland’ 4–8in × 8in 5–8 Shell-pink (M) Glossy, dark green Dwarf astilbe, easy to
(simplicifolia grow, increases well
hybrid)
‘Hyazinth’ 3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Dark lavender-pink Green, fernlike
(×arendsii) (E–M)
‘Inshriach Pink’ 8–12in × 10in 5–8 Light pink, airy Dark bronze, crinkled Slow
(simplicifolia plumes (L)
hybrid)
‘Irrlicht’ 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 White with rose tinge Dark green
(×arendsii) (E–M)
‘Maggie Daley’ 2½ft × 1½ft 5–8 Purplish rose (M) Dark green, shiny
‘Mainz’ ( japonica 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Violet (E–M) Dark green
hybrid)
‘Moerheimii’ 5ft × 2ft 5–8 White, large arching Green
(thunbergii hybrid) plumes (M)
‘Montgomery’ 2½ft × 1½ft 5–8 Dark red (M) Bronze-red aging to
( japonica hybrid) dark green
‘Obergärtner 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–8 Crimson (E) Dark green
Jürgens’ (×arendsii)
‘Professor van der 3–4ft × 2ft+ 5–8 White, long stems of Green, open, on strong Good cut, a different
Wielen’ (thunbergii gracefully arching stems look for an astilbe
hybrid) sprays (M)
‘Queen of Holland’ 2ft × 2ft 5–8 White (E) Green
( japonica hybrid)
‘Red Sentinel’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Deep crimson-red Dark green, glossy,
( japonica hybrid) (E–M) bronze tinge, red stems
‘Rheinland’ 1½–2ft × 5–8 Clear bright pink, Dense, green, fernlike RHS Award
( japonica hybrid) 1½ft intense (E–M)
×rosea ‘Peach 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Pink (M) Light green, glossy, A very soft look
Blossom’ fernlike
simplicifolia 6–12in × 8in 5–8 White (E–M) Dark green, somewhat Dwarf, slow, RHS
glossy Award
s. ‘Darwin’s Snow 1ft × 1ft 5–8 White (M–L) Dark green, delicately More robust than
Sprite’ cut A. ‘Sprite’

Astilboides 97
USDA
Zone
‘Snowdrift’ 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Pure white (M) Bright green Good cut
(×arendsii)
‘Spinell’ (×arendsii) 3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Carmine-red, long Deep red aging to
plumes (M) reddish green
‘Sprite’ 8–12in × 10in 5–8 Light pink (L) Rich dark green, Slow, 1994 PPA
(simplicifolia bronze in spring, glossy, Award, RHS Award
hybrid) delicately cut
‘Straussenfeder’ 3–3½ft × 2ft 5–8 Coral-pink in large, Bronze aging to green Vigorous, RHS
(thunbergii hybrid) open, arching plumes Award
(syn. ‘Ostrich (M)
Plume’)
‘Vesuvius’ 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 Carmine-red (M) Bronze-green
( japonica hybrid)
‘Washington’ 1½–2ft × 5–8 Strong white (E) Green
( japonica hybrid) 1½ft
‘Weisse Gloria’ 2–2½ft × 5–8 Creamy-white on Dark-green, fernlike, Strong growth
(×arendsii) 1½ft erect spikes (M) shiny
‘William Buchanan’ 8–18in × 12in 5–8 Light pink (L) Green, tinged red, shiny More vigorous than
(simplicifolia A. ‘Sprite’
hybrid)
ASTILBOIDES Saxifragaceae
Astilboides tabularis provides an exotic touch to the garden with its umbrellalike (peltate) leaves
and flowers similar to rodgersia or astilbe. The round, scalloped leaves are more interesting than
the flowers. This plant used to be classified as a species of rodgersia but now has been placed in a
The large leaves of

Astilboides tabularis.

98 Astilboides
Astilboides tabularis in flower, with Macleaya cordata, Persicaria virginiana Variegata Group ‘Painter’s Palette’,
and Euphorbia schillingii. Design by Ann Lovejoy.
genus all its own. It is happiest in moist, boggy conditions in part shade and is extremely slow to
increase. Do not step on the crowns. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: Greek name for a plant resembling the astilbe or rodgersia flowers.
Common Name: Shieldleaf rodgersia.
Origin: China.
Preferred Conditions: Rich, humus-rich, moist soil.
Light: Shade to part shade. Tolerates part sun with adequate water.
Planting: Likes to be under deep-rooted trees or alongside water.
Management: Cut down in autumn to tidy up. Leaves are usually shed by this time. It would
appreciate a mulch over the winter.
Propagation: Divide roots in spring, or seed in July and August.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, slugs, slugs, and big feet.
Companions: Large-scale ferns, hosta, astilbe, aruncus, filipendula, helleborus, ligularia,
telekia, Primula japonica.
USDA
Zone
tabularis 3–5ft × 3ft 4–9 White plumes (M) Pale olive-green, Clump-forming,
rounded, big (2ft across), very slow to increase
shiny, smoother on top
033_113_TP.indd 98 1/11/07 3:33:08 PM

Astrantia 99
Astrantia major ‘Roma’

ASTRANTIA Apiaceae with Anthriscus sylvestris.
Astrantia major is a variable species, with differences in plant size, flower size, and flower
color. Its flowers consist of a whorl of bracts surrounding a pincushionlike mound (umbel) of
small flowers in shades of white, red, pink, or green. This floral arrangement has a long period
of looking showy. It’s a good idea to buy the plant in bloom if you can; many of the unnamed
reds are not very graceful, and the flower fades to white shortly after bloom. Avoid placing its
white-flowering forms with other white flowers, as they tend to make the astrantias look dirty.
The handsome basal leaves are lobed and coarsely toothed. Astrantia major subsp. involucrata
‘Shaggy’ has the largest flowers, of green flushed with white; the foliage is less full and slower
to increase, and its overall form less attractive than the species. Astrantia major ‘Sunningdale
Variegated’ has a good clean variegation to its foliage in early spring; this fades away very near
to the time of bloom.
Astrantia major is not difficult to grow. You must watch for self-sown seedlings; many will
rebloom if deadheaded, so remember this maintenance advice and you’ll prolong its flowering
season plus save yourself time and effort pulling out seedlings later. This species will not survive in
a hot, dry climate; plants are slow to establish but very long-lived and successful once established.
Astrantia maxima is somewhat more demanding. It needs good soil and room to spread its
rhizomes. The flower, which has larger bracts, is a lovely chalky pink on a shorter stem. This
makes it somewhat less useful for cutting, and it does have a shorter bloom season. Astrantia
‘Buckland’ (a hybrid of A. major and A. maxima), with a similar flower, is a much more graceful
plant. ~ Ann Bucher

100 Astrantia
Scientific Name: From the Latin aster (“star”), referring to the starlike flowers.
Common Name: Masterwort.
Origin: Central and southern Europe, western Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, fertile, heavy soil. Tolerates drier soil but will not thrive.
Management: Deadheading will prevent self-sowing (this is especially important if you are
growing cultivars) and extend flowering season. Keep moist in the summer. Cut back when
foliage is dead in late fall.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids (on young plants), slugs, especially in spring.
Propagation: Divide in spring or fall. Sow seed as soon as ripe, and give planted seed a two-
month warm period followed by cold.
Companions: Lilium martagon, Iris sibirica, Milium effusum ‘Aureum’, hosta, pulmonaria,
chaerophyllum, pimpinella, campanula, Phlox paniculata, adenophora, geranium.
Notes: Makes a great cut flower, both fresh and dried.
USDA
Zone
‘Buckland’ 2ft × 2ft 4–9 Tiny, dusty pink, Palmate, green A very good form
with silvery-pink and
green bracts (M)
carniolica 1–1½ft × 4–9 White, tinged pink, More divided than Smaller than
1½ft with shorter white, A. major, green, deeply A. major
green-tipped bracts lobed, toothed
(M)
‘Hadspen Blood’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Rich dark red bracts New foliage tinted Thought to be a
(M) purple, aging to green hybrid with
A. maxima
major 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Wide range—red, Mid-green, palmately Masterwort,
pink, white, some lobed, coarsely toothed self-sows
green-tipped, some
with more or less
color in bracts or
in central flowers
(M–L)
m. alba 2–2½ft × 2ft 4–9 White, with white Palmate, mid-green
bracts (M)
m. subsp. 1ft × 1ft 4–9 Smaller, white, tinted Green, smaller, more
biebersteinii pale pink (M) divided
m. subsp. 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White tinted green Green, larger Very large bracts
involucrata or pink, white bracts
with green tips (M)
m. subsp. 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White and green As above Improved form
involucrata bracts (M) of A. major subsp.
‘Orlando’ involucrata ‘Shaggy’

Astrantia 101
USDA
Zone
m. subsp. 2–2½ft × 2ft 4–9 White, long white Green, deeply divided, RHS Award
involucrata bracts with green tips larger than most
‘Shaggy’ (syn. and pink undersides
‘Margery Fish’) (M)
m. ‘Lars’ 2½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Red with dark red Dark green
bracts (M)
m. ‘Pat Bender’s 2ft × 2ft 4–9 Red with dark wine- Dark green, emerges Keeps its color well,
Form’ red bracts (M) even darker earliest red to bloom
m. ‘Primadonna’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Dark maroon bracts Deep green, palmate Vigorous, similar
(M) to A. major
‘Rosensinfonie’
m. ‘Roma’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Clear rich pink (M) Mid-green Free-flowering, may
be a hybrid with
A. maxima
m. var. rosea 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Pale pink, dark pink Deeply lobed, green,
in bud, bright pink lush
bracts (M)
m. ‘Rosensinfonie’ 2½ft × 2½ft 4–9 Rose-pink, bracts and Palmate, green Fades to white
flowers fade to white quickly, seeds to
(M) mixed colors
m. ‘Rubra’ (syn. 1–2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Bracts vary, shades Lacy, green
carniolica var. of red, maroon, and
rubra) pink (M)
m. ‘Ruby Cloud’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Red-purple with red Light green, shiny A very good red
bracts, red stems (M)
m. ‘Ruby Wedding’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Dark red with dark Dark green tinged with Doesn’t come true
red bracts and purple from seed
maroon-black stems
(M)
m. ‘Sunningdale 2ft × 2ft 4–9 Greenish white, Irregularly splashed Needs full sun for
Variegated’ (syn. barely tinged pink with cream and yellow, best leaf color, RHS
major ‘Variegata’) (M) fades back to green in Award
summer, deeply lobed
maxima 2ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pink, with large, Green, deeply divided, Prefers sun, bracts
sharply pointed pink 3-lobed age to green when
bracts (M) dried, spreads by
fine runners, sets
little viable seed,
RHS Award
m. ‘Mark Fenwick’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Deeper pink (M) As above

102 Baptisia
Baptisia australis.
BAPTISIA Papilionaceae
Baptisia gives us everything we could ask from a plant, beginning with asparaguslike stalks in
early spring (which are late to emerge). Typical pea family flowers appear in late spring to early
summer in shades of deep violet-blue, creamy-yellow or white, bright yellow, and smoky purple.
The handsome foliage is bluish green and on a mature shrubby plant really makes a statement
in the border. By autumn, the flowers have turned into very interesting swollen black seedpods
that rattle. False indigo loves sun and a warm spot, and may not perform at its best without it. It’s
quite slow to establish (and may take several years to bloom) and responds very well to a layer of
mulch. Baptisia is good as a cut flower if picked just as the first flowers open (unfortunately, the
buds will not open). The seedpods are used in dried arrangements. ~ Susan Carter
USDA
Zone
alba 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 White (E–M) Blue-green, palmate,
obovate to lanceolate,
charcoal-gray stems
a. var. macrophylla 3–5ft × 2½ft 4–9 Creamy-white, Blue-gray, purple- Olive-green pods,
(syn. lactea, sometimes tinged tinged, waxy, glaucous turning black
leucantha) purple (M) stems
australis 3–4ft × 3ft 3–9 Indigo or deep violet- Blue-green, waxy, Blue false indigo,
blue (E–M) obovate to oval, grayish gray-black seedpods,
green stems long-blooming, RHS
Award
bracteata (syn. 2ft × 2ft 4–9 Creamy-yellow Grayish, bristly, hairy
leucophaea) (E–M)
‘Purple Smoke’ 3–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Smoky purple with Blue-gray green, Vigorous, black
purple eye (E–M) velvety, stems are dark seedpods
charcoal-green
tinctoria 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Bright yellow (M) Blue-green Indigo, rattleweed,
used in dye

Begonia 103
Scientific Name: From the Greek bapto (“to dye”); plants were used as a substitute for indigo.
Common Name: False indigo.
Origin: East coast of North America.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, well-drained, acidic to neutral and poor to average soil. Prefers
moist conditions but tolerates drought once established.
Management: Low-maintenance plant. Taproots don’t like to be disturbed. Cut foliage down
in fall cleanup or in spring before new shoots appear. The plants are sturdy and erect, but
taller forms may need staking, especially in exposed areas. Top-dress with organic material
in winter.
Propagation: Division in early spring (plants have taproots); root cuttings; seed takes three
years to bloom.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, fungal leaf spot.
Companions: Salvia guaranitica, euphorbia, helictotrichon, rudbeckia.
Notes: Baptisias are late to emerge in the spring.
BEGONIA Begoniaceae
The two hardy species of begonia are grown for their tropical foliage and profusion of small
flowers. Begonia grandis has exceptionally attractive leaves—backlit, the red underside of the
large leaf shines through. Since this is not a very tall plant, it is seen to best advantage in a
container (which needs winter protection), or elevated so that it is closer to eye level. The flowers,
very similar to the annual fibrous begonia, are welcome in late summer and last throughout the
fall. Begonia sutherlandii has smaller orange flowers and is more lax in habit. It too does well in
containers but is probably less hardy than B. grandis so it will need winter protection whether
Begonia grandis subsp.

evansiana var. alba.

104 Begonia
Begonia grandis subsp.

evansiana with Pelto-
boykinia watanabei,
Lamium maculatum
‘White Nancy’, Iris
foetidissima ‘Variegata’,
and a hydrangea that
has aged to purple.
grown in the ground or in containers. Small bulbils in the leaf axils in both of these species
assure an abundant supply of plants. These begonias, while very prolific, are not a nuisance.
They grow from small tubers and are easy to remove. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: After Michael Begon, governor of French Canada.

Common Name: Hardy begonia.
Origin: China, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moist soil in a warm, sheltered place.
Light: Part shade to part sun.
Management: Cut the dead foliage back in the fall (leaves are usually shed by this time). Light
mulching will help the plants overwinter. As long as the tubers don’t freeze the plants will
sprout again in the spring. You can also just bring pots of begonias indoors to a frost-free
space and take them back out next late spring. They will die back but will return with
proper watering and outdoor conditions.
Propagation: Small bulbils form in the leaf axils; divisions can be dug up and moved in the
spring; cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, root weevils.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, dicentra, fuchsia, hakonechloa, abutilon.
USDA
Zone
grandis subsp. 10–24in × 7–10 Drooping, pink, on Wing-shaped with Tuberous and
evansiana 12in red stems (M–L) hairy texture, red veins spreading (not
underneath invasive), RHS
Award
g. subsp. evansiana 10–24in × 7–10 Drooping, white As above Tuberous
var. alba 12in (M–L)
sutherlandii 12–18in × 7–10 Tangerine-orange, Small, triangular, bright Very small tubers,
18in+ small but abundant green, red-veined RHS Award
(E–L)

Belamcanda 105
BELAMCANDA Iridaceae
I grew B. chinensis last year for the first time—a nice plant
with pale orange flowers and red spots increasing in density
toward the flower center. Multiple flowers open each day
over a fairly long period of time; the fans of foliage slowly
expand in size and number. Do not deadhead, as the bonus
with this plant is clusters of black fruits that look for all
the world like ripe blackberries. My plant came through a
hard winter in good condition, even in a pot. Belamcandas
are extremely vulnerable to early spring slug shredding.
~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: Latinized common name from East Asia.

Common Name: Blackberry lily, leopard flower.
Origin: China, Himalayas, Southeast Asia, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Will grow well in any type of mois-
ture-retentive, well-drained soil. Don’t allow to dry out.
Planting: Plant rhizomes about one inch deep in spring
(three inches deep in colder areas).
Management: Cut stems and leaves down in fall cleanup. Belamcanda chinensis.
They will benefit from a mulch in winter, especially in
colder areas. Staking is a must, or a friend to lean on, particularly in rich, moist soil. Remove
dead or dying leaves any time.
Propagation: Easy from seed in spring; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Iris borer, slugs, snails.
Companions: Artemisia, grasses, perovskia, agapanthus, helenium, salpiglossis, crocosmia,
dark-foliaged dahlias; it would be nice with late daylilies in similar color tones.
Notes: Good for fresh flower arrangements; the dried seed capsules are also great in arrange-
ments. This plant likes a lot of heat; best to site in a warm, protected spot in the maritime
Northwest.
USDA
Zone
chinensis 2–3ft × 1ft 5–9 Orange, spotted with Irislike, sword-shaped, Shining black
maroon (M–L) rich green seedheads,
resembling clusters
of blackberries
c. ‘Hello Yellow’ 2ft × 1ft+ 5–9 Yellow (unspotted) Broad, sword-shaped Dwarf cultivar
(M–L) rich green

106 Bergenia
BERGENIA Saxifragaceae
We’ve come a long way since the megasea of Gertrude

Jekyll’s day. This genus includes some of the best broad-
leaved evergreen perennials for the winter garden as well as
stalwarts of the spring garden. Not all are wonderful winter
plants though. Some get pretty beaten up through the course
of a year; continuous dead-leafing helps with this problem.
Others, however, are just excellent for winter color alone;
B. ‘Rotblum’, B. ‘Baby Doll’, and B. cordifolia ‘Winterglut’,
for example, all have leaves ranging from burgundy and
scarlet to liver-colored throughout the winter.
Bergenias are best planted at the edges of beds or borders.
There is a fair range of sizes and an excellent range of color,
from the loud B. ‘Ballawley’ with carmine stems and red-
violet flowers to the soft pink of B. ‘Baby Doll’ or the white,
aging to pink flowers of B. ‘Silberlicht’. The deciduous
B. ciliata and the evergreen B. purpurascens are worth
seeking out.
Mulching will help keep soil moist and cool in hot
weather, but bergenias do not like manure on their above-
Bergenia emeiensis. ground rhizomes. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: For university professor Karl August von Bergen.

Common Name: Pigsqueak, megasea.
Origin: Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Rich, well-drained, moist soil. Tolerates a wide range of conditions.
Light: Shade to sun.
Planting: Fertilize moderately at planting time and each spring with a low-nitrogen, high-
phosphorus and -potassium fertilizer.
Management: Deadhead spent flowers as necessary and cut back any damaged leaves after
winter, or anytime during the growing season. Cut flower stems out after flowering. Suscep-
tible to damage by root weevils, which can notch the leaves as on rhododendrons; night
patrols are the most effective control from mid April through summer. Damaged by late
frosts in mild winters.
Propagation: Division in spring using a good section of the rhizome; stem cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Root weevils.
Companions: Omphalodes, Brunnera macrophylla, hamamelis, primula, helleborus, ophio-
pogon, chaerophyllum, larger-scale bulbs; good for edges and at their best when mass
planted.
Notes: Bergenias like to expand their clumps, so remove the oldest pieces to keep them neat
and not too congested. Look for ‘Tubby Andrews’, a new variegated selection of B. cordifolia.

Bergenia 107
USDA
Zone
‘Abendglut’ (syn. 10–12in × 4–8 Dark red, double (E) Broad, reddish, ovate, Smaller leaves than
‘Evening Glow’) 12in+ bronze-brown in B. cordifolia
autumn
‘Baby Doll’ 12in × 12in+ 4–8 Soft pink, darkening Green, rounded, As above, slow to
with age (E) toothed, turns maroon expand
with crimson undersides
in winter
‘Ballawley’ 12–18in × 4–8 Red-violet (E) Glossy, large, green, RHS Award
18in+ vivid red stems
‘Bressingham Ruby’ 15–18in × 18in 4–8 Strong pink (E) Bronze-green, aging to Compact clumps
maroon in winter
‘Bressingham 12in × 18in+ 4–8 Salmon-pink on Long leaves (9–12in), Late flowering,
Salmon’ compact spikes (E) green, tinged pink or doesn’t like wet
purple in winter ground
‘Bressingham 18–24in × 4–8 White, turning pink Green, leathery As above, RHS
White’ 24in+ with age (E) Award
ciliata 12–18in × 18in 4–8 Pink or white, large Large, green, rounded, Deciduous
(E) hairy
cordifolia 18–24in × 4–8 Pink or white (E) Dark green, bronze- Heart-shaped
24in+ tinged, round to cordate, bergenia, evergreen,
toothed the most common
form grown from
seed, expands to
large clumps
c. ‘Redstart’ 18in × 18in 4–8 Vibrant red (E) Green, turning red in Compact clumps
winter
c. ‘Winterglut’ 12–18in × 18in 4–8 Ruby-red clusters (E) As above As above
emeiensis 12in × 12in 6–9 White or pink Green with reddish Mounding,
clusters with reddish tones in winter, more evergreen, not
throat and flower narrow leaf reliably hardy
stem, more nodding
(E)
‘Morgenröte’ (syn. 15in × 15in 4–8 Bright carmine-pink Green Reblooms in fall,
‘Morning Red’) (E) RHS Award
purpurascens 15in × 12in 4–8 Bright pink on Dark green, turning red RHS Award
magenta stems (E) in winter
‘Rotblum’ 12–18in × 18in 4–8 Deep reddish purple Green, shiny, red-tinged Excellent winter
(E) in winter color, dense clumps
‘Silberlicht’ 12–18in × 4–8 White turning pink Large, green Strong grower, RHS
24in+ with age, red center Award
(E)
‘Sunningdale’ 18in × 18in 4–8 Carmine-lilac (E) Green aging to magenta Tolerates full sun
in winter
‘Wintermärchen’ 15in × 15in+ 4–8 Dark rose (E) Leathery, green, turning
reddish in fall

108 Bidens
BIDENS Asteraceae
These North American natives grow best in full sun and

usually need little more care than staking. In our gardens
they can be quite vigorous, which may make them flop
a bit, so the less nitrogen they get the better; avoid over-
head watering as well. The small, up-facing daisy flowers
are usually in the yellow range (although a new deep pink
one has been introduced from Lotus Land in California).
The obsessive among us deadhead to increase flower
production. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Latin bis (“twice”) and dens (“tooth”),

referring to two teeth on the seed.
Common Name: Tickseed.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, rich soil with lots
of light. Needs to be well watered during the growing
season.
Planting: Give them lots of room, as they can run.
Management: Deadhead after flowering. Cut back to
ground in winter cleanup. Bait crown for slugs in
winter.
Propagation: Division in spring when new growth begins.
Bidens heterophylla.
Companions: Solidago, helianthus, anthemis, perovskia, agapanthus, Salvia guaranitica,
S. patens, S. discolor, grasses.
Notes: Self-sowing in the Pacific Northwest does not seem to be a problem.
USDA
Zone
heterophylla 3–4ft × 3ft+ 5–8 Pale yellow, daisylike Green, deeply cut, Needs staking even
on strong upright willowy if planted in full sun,
stems (E–L) runs
‘Madame Ganna 3–4ft × 4ft+ 5–8 Rose-pink with Green Vigorous and
Walska’ yellow center (M–L) clumping
triplinervia 6ft × 2ft+ 5–8 Yellow (M) Green, divided, 3-part North American
native, needs
summer water, runs

Bletilla 109
BLETILLA Orchidaceae
I planted my first bletilla the year a famous person from

England spoke to our Hardy Plant Study Weekend. He
said bletilla was difficult to bloom. Mine was in full bloom,
and I felt very smug. That was probably fifteen years ago. I
remember it blooming only once since then—that was the
year I moved it to a sunnier location. This year I’m experi-
menting: some I divided and replanted shallowly, some I
put in pots, some I left alone. We’ll see. They had, somehow,
in three years, gotten deeper and more crowded.
The pleated leaves are attractive in themselves, but the
lovely flowers are worth some effort. Once properly sited
they will bloom and spread well, but they may need more
heat than we have in the Pacific Northwest. A certain back-
yard picket fence in View Ridge, Seattle, may be the answer.
~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After eighteenth-century Spanish apoth-

ecary Louis Blet.
Common Name: Hardy Chinese orchid.
Origin: China, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moisture-retentive,
well-drained soil. Likes it moist, so don’t allow them to
dry out.
Bletilla striata.
Planting: Don’t plant too deep; one inch is ideal.
Management: Leave undisturbed to make large drifts, but divide when colonies become too
crowded to bloom. Mulch heavily in cold areas. Late frosts can be a problem. Cut dead
foliage down in autumn.
Propagation: Divide in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, especially as they first emerge in spring.
Companions: Heuchera, hakonechloa, primula, polygonatum, corydalis.
Notes: All forms will spread to more than three feet over time.
USDA
Zone
striata 1–2ft × 1ft+ 6–10 Rosy-purple, Broad, mid-green, Most vigorous
nodding, on wiry pleated, grasslike
stems (E–M)
s. ‘Albostriata’ 1–2ft × 1ft+ 6–10 Rosy-purple (E–M) Creamy-white line on A bit slower
the edge
s. var. japonica f. 1–2ft × 1ft+ 6–10 White (E–M) Broad, mid-green, Tighter spread
gebina (syn. alba) pleated, grasslike

110 Boltonia
Boltonia asteroides
var. latisquama.
BOLTONIA Asteraceae
All boltonias are North American natives. All have glabrous stems and foliage. They are appealing
plants, with gray leaves, upright habit, and finely rayed daisy flowers. They have a fresh appear-
ance; when they bloom in late summer to fall, they have that new, bright, generous quality of
spring bloomers. The best performer is B. asteroides, which has white flowers and stands up well
on its own in full sun. The forms with colored flowers, especially B. a. ‘Pink Beauty’, are lax in
habit, shyer to bloom, and not nearly as good garden plants.
Plants increase rapidly, and it’s not necessary to buy one larger than a four-inch pot since it
will be more than adequate size by bloom time in the first year. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: In honor of British botanist James Bolton.

Common Name: Thousand-flowered aster.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, fertile, well-drained soil. Plants grown in dry soil may be smaller
than normal. Drought tolerant once established.
Management: You can pinch back by half on 1 June to make for a more compact plant and
heavier bloom. Plants grown in shade or very rich soil may need support. Bait crown for
slugs in winter.
Propagation: Divide in spring, or take tip cuttings in summer. Seeds of cultivars will not come
true.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs; does not suffer from powdery mildew like asters.
Companions: Boltonias are beautiful in combination with yellow phygelius, solidago, and
late white-flowering phlox. Try them with Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’, Eupatorium purpureum,
perovskia, miscanthus, aconitum, Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’.
033_113_TP.indd 110 1/11/07 3:32:18 PM

Brunnera 111
USDA
Zone
asteroides 4–7ft × 2½ft 3–9 White with yellow Narrow, lancelike, gray- Stake at 4ft
center (L) green, on stiffly erect
stems
a. var. latisquama 6ft × 2½ft 3–9 Small, violet-blue in Gray-green Needs staking
dense clusters (L)
a. var. latisquama 2–3ft × 2½ft 3–9 Lilac with yellow As above Good for cutting,
‘Nana’ center (L) dwarf variety
a. var. latisquama 3–5ft × 2½ft 3–9 Pure white with Gray-green on North American
‘Snowbank’ yellow center, dense branching stems, lower native, large-scale
(L) stem may be bare plant
a. ‘Pink Beauty’ 2–4ft × 2½ft 3–9 Pale pink (L) Gray-green, very open Good cut flower,
habit, lower stems may weak stems
be bare
BRUNNERA Boraginaceae
One of the loveliest sights in late winter, early spring is the emerging foliage of B. macrophylla
‘Hadspen Cream’. This plant has large cordate (heart-shaped) leaves edged in cream and (when
completely unfolded) spotted faintly with silver. The small airy flowers are an intense cobalt-
blue with yellow center. They are lovely with early bulbs and Ranunculus ficaria ‘Double Mud’
or R. f. ‘Randall’s White’. Newer in cultivation and an absolutely outstanding foliage plant is
B. macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’. Large (four inches or more) leaves covered in silver with a netting of
green veins make this plant shine in the shade.
Brunneras are best in spring sun and summer shade, or shady woodland conditions. In this
situation, B. macrophylla ‘Jack Frost’ is beaconlike, with excellent foliage from spring through
fall, a first-rate plant.
Eventually, brunneras form large clumps, especially the greener leaf forms. Division in fall
will help solve this problem. Cut foliage back hard in summer if it looks bad. Brunnera macro-
phylla ‘Langtrees’ can self-sow plain green, and these seedlings should be promptly removed.
Brunnera macrophylla ‘Hadspen Cream’ and B. m. ‘Jack Frost’ are best not cut back until fall; the
former is less vigorous and needs its leaves to photosynthesize and build up its crown, while B. m.
‘Jack Frost’ does not seem to look bad until after the first frost. Keep moist and remove individual
leaves as necessary on these two cultivars. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: After Swiss botanist Samuel Brunner (1790–1844).

Common Name: Siberian bugloss.
Origin: Siberia, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Average, cool, well-drained, humus-rich, moisture-retentive soil.
Prefers to be moist but will tolerate drought. May go dormant if too dry.
Light: Part shade to shade. Sun in cooler climates. Will bloom less in full shade.
Management: Mulch to keep cool and moist, although the plain-leaved forms are drought
tolerant once established. If the foliage looks bad in midsummer, cut it back to the ground
and water deeply. New foliage will soon appear. Cut the dead foliage down in fall cleanup.
Brunnera tolerates neglect but is handsome only if healthy.

112 Brunnera
Brunnera macrophylla
‘Hadspen Cream’.
Propagation: Division in late fall or early winter; root cuttings; seed is often difficult to germi-
nate although they can self-sow in some conditions.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, some mildew if allowed to dry out.
Companions: Thalictrum, dicentra, epimedium, trollius, muscari, narcissus, Ranunculus
ficaria, hyacinthoides, trillium, omphalodes; good under deciduous trees and shrubs (spring
sun, summer shade).
Notes: There’s a new cultivar (of course), B. macrophylla ‘Looking Glass’, a sport of B. m. ‘Jack
Frost’ and apparently very similar.
USDA
Zone
macrophylla 1–1½ft × 2ft 3–9 Tiny bright blue with Large, dark green, Clump-forming,
yellow center (E–M) cordate, hairy self-sows, RHS
Award
m. ‘Dawson’s 1–1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Bright blue (E–M) Dark green, cordate, Keep out of sun,
White’ (syn. creamy-white border leaves may revert to
‘Variegata’) and marbling, browns green, keep moist
easily in full sun
m. ‘Hadspen 1–1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Blue, starry (E–M) Green, cream borders, Prefers part shade
Cream’ broad, cordate, fuzzy and steady moisture,
may revert, RHS
Award
m. ‘Jack Frost’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 As above Silver with green veins Best new form for
vigor, takes more
sun
m. ‘Langtrees’ (syn. 1–1½ft × 2ft 3–9 As above Dark green with silvery- Seedlings vary in
‘Aluminum Spot’) gray spots and borders, prominence of the
large, cordate, hairy spots, select the best
ones

Buphthalmum 113
Buphthalmum
salicifolium.
BUPHTHALMUM Asteraceae
The oxeye daisy is an easy plant to have. It is often staked, but it is more beautiful when allowed
to flop among other stronger-stemmed perennials. Divide your clumps in spring when they have
spread too far. Long-lasting as a cut flower, “but it’s just another yellow daisy.” ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek bous (“ox”) and ophthalmos (“eye”), referring to the flowers.
Common Name: Oxeye daisy.
Origin: Europe, western Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moisture-retentive, moist soil.
Management: Deadhead after flowering for a cleaner look. Cut dead foliage down in autumn.
Weak plants may require staking.
Propagation: Seed is best; divide in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs in spring.
Companions: Ligularia, larger ferns, Lysimachia ciliata ‘Firecracker’, Carex elata, oxen.
USDA
Zone
salicifolium (syn. 3ft+ × 2ft+ 3–7 Deep yellow, daisylike, Narrow, dark green Spreads slowly, but
Inula ‘Golden on slender stems, not invasive
Beauty’) fragrant, long-
blooming (M–L)
033_113_TP.indd 113 1/11/07 3:31:31 PM

114 Calamintha
CALAMINTHA Lamiaceae
Calamintha is another diminutive member of the mint family. Some calaminthas have the inva-
sive habit of mints; a few are clump-forming. Several years ago I planted C. grandiflora in a pot
with other perennials—an experiment. I thought it would be a good perennial trailer to hang
down the sides of the pot. It did this very well! Now the plant owns the pot, having forced out
everyone else. If you grow the spreading forms you will need to be watchful and carry a trowel
to ensure the survival of smaller or less aggressive neighbors.
All the calaminthas are lovely later-season plants, making little clouds of aromatic flowers and
foliage. Trimmings of the more enthusiastic forms can be used in sachet and potpourri. Think of
them as filler in the front of the border. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek kallos (“beautiful”) and minthe (“mint”).
Common Name: Calamint.
Origin: Southern Europe, northwest Africa, northern Turkey, Russia.
Preferred Conditions: Average and well-drained soil. Calamintha grandiflora can take light
shade and is drought tolerant once established.
Light: Sun.
Management: Though really not necessary due to their naturally short stature, you can cut
back as needed to keep full and dense. Cut dead foliage down in autumn.
Propagation: Division in early spring, sow seed in cold frame in early spring, or take cuttings.
Seed is best.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, but normally pest- and disease-free.
Companions: Sedum, aster, perovskia, ×solidaster, solidago, coreopsis, scabiosa.
Calamintha grandiflora
‘Variegata’.

Callirhoe 115
USDA
Zone
grandiflora 12–18in × 18in 5–9 Pink, sagelike on Fuzzy, dark green, Rhizomatous, plant
erect stems, long- aromatic, strongly inside a root barrier
lasting (M) toothed, on a dense
bushy plant
g. ‘Variegata’ 15–24in × 18in 5–9 Small, pink (M) Fuzzy, dark green, Sun for best leaf
variegated, speckled in color; will revert,
mint-green and white, pinch out green
aromatic leaves
nepeta 18–20in × 12in 5–9 White or lilac, Aromatic, light green Short-lived esp. in
thymelike, long- wet winters and
flowering (M–L) heavy soils, bees love
this plant
n. subsp. 12in × 12in 5–9 Tiny, white, and lots Aromatic, green Cut back mature
glandulosa ‘White of them (M–L) plants to encourage a
Cloud’ succession of flowers
n. subsp. nepeta 12–18in × 12in 5–9 Tiny, lilac and white, Aromatic, green, wiry Long flowering
(syn. nepetoides) turning blue with age little bushlets season, bees love it,
(M–L) noninvasive
CALLIRHOE Malvaceae
Poppy mallow is another American prairie plant that needs full sun and few neighbors. This
species forms a thick, fleshy root that, in deep soil, can get up to three feet long. Flowers are
sparsely held but are an incredible bright color. Plant in a sunny location, where it can flop about
and live out its short life. ~ Bob Lilly
Callirhoe involucrata.
114_159_TP.indd 115 1/11/07 3:28:36 PM

06 12 F08 Perennials X 5 CTP Proof G5J No 4
116 Caltha
Scientific Name: For a character in Greek mythology.

Common Name: Poppy mallow.
Origin: United States, Mexico.
Preferred Conditions: Dry, hot sites in well-drained, light soil. Tolerant of poor soil.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Avoid damage to taproot when planting.
Management: Given its long taproot, doesn’t like being moved. Cut back dead stems in
autumn. Protect from winter wet.
Propagation: Seed in early spring.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, aphids, spider mites.
Companions: Yucca, sedum, stachys, echinacea, festuca, helictotrichon.
Notes: Grow this once in your life—the color must be seen to be believed!
USDA
Zone
involucrata 6–12in × 3ft+ 4–8 Red-violet, white at Roundish, deeply
base, 5-petaled, deep- cut, green, on hairy,
cupped (M–L) sprawling stems
CALTHA Ranunculaceae
This is no ordinary buttercup. Bright yellow or white flowers appear in late spring on these slowly
spreading, moisture-loving plants. Full sun and constant moisture is preferred, but drier soil in
summer, when the plant is dormant, is tolerated in part shade. They will accept root restriction
in aquatic containers. Slugs are usually the reason these plants fail. ~ Ann Bucher
Caltha palustris.

114_159_TP.indd 116 1/11/07 3:29:12 PM
Camassia 117
Scientific Name: Latin for a yellow-flowered plant.

Common Name: Marsh marigold, kingcup, Molly blob.
Preferred Conditions: Rich, organic, moist to boggy soil. Tolerant of drier areas if shaded from
full sun. Can tolerate standing water in spring.
Light: Sun in the spring, part shade in the summer.
Management: Tidy up after it goes dormant.
Propagation: Division in late spring after flowering; sow ripe seed on damp soil mix in
partially shaded cold frame.
Companions: Waterside and aquatic plants—Iris pseudacorus, Acorus gramineus, ferns, Primula
japonica, P. florindae, P. bulleyana, P. beesiana, juncus.
Notes: Keep the crown above water level.
USDA
Zone
palustris 1–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Bright yellow, single, Shiny, rounded, green Molly blob, goes
with rich yellow dormant in mid to
stamens in loose late summer, RHS
clusters (E) Award
p. ‘Flore Pleno’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Double, bright yellow Compact, lush, glossy, Blooms longer
(E) green, rounded than species, goes
dormant early,
clump-forming, RHS
Award
p. var. palustris 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Double, golden Shiny, rounded, green Shallow water or
‘Plena’ yellow (E) very moist soil,
goes dormant early,
clump-forming
CAMASSIA Hyacinthaceae
A genus of bulbous perennials growing in the fertile, moist spring meadows of western North
America. They resemble a tall scilla with starry, slender-petaled blossoms. Color range includes
blue, purple, white, and cream. Camassia quamash is low-growing with narrow foliage, more suit-
able for naturalizing. Camassia cusickii and C. leichtlinii are quite suitable for the border, appearing
between the early bloomers and the bulbs of later summer. They all make good cut flowers. The
bulbs were a staple food of Northwest native peoples. They are at home here. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From North American Indian name, quamash or camas.

Common Name: Camas, Indian hyacinth, quamash.
Origin: Western North America.
Preferred Conditions: Rich in organic material, moisture-retentive soil. Moist meadows in
spring but not standing water, especially in winter. Will not tolerate spring drought and
prefers spring wet then summer dry. In nature they get exactly this.
Planting: Plant in the fall after weather cools, three to six inches deep depending on bulb size,
in groups of a dozen or more.
Perennials C-Cymbalaria_TP.indd 117 12/7/06 6:31:36 PM

118 Camassia
Camassia leichtlinii
subsp. suksdorfii
‘Blauwe Donau’.
Management: Cut scruffy-looking flower stems to ground, or leave on for the seedpods. May
need to lift and divide when showing signs of congestion. Leave foliage on to ripen as with
other spring-flowering bulbs, after which they can be lifted and divided.
Propagation: Division of bulbs in fall; seed into cold frame in late summer when seed is ripe.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs on spring foliage.
Companions: Filipendula, Carex elata, ligularia foliage, Iris sibirica, I. pseudacorus ‘Variegata’,
late-season tulips, late narcissus.
Notes: Camassia leichtlinii can get quite large and form massive clumps; useful in the large-
scale border. Plant these in clumps of five to seven bulbs for best effect.
USDA
Zone
cusickii 2–3ft × 1ft 3–8 Pale blue, narrow- Long, waxy, green, Good cut flower,
petaled, starlike grassy bulbs are large and
(E–M) can weigh ½ pound
leichtlinii subsp. 3–4ft × 1ft 3–8 Cream-colored, Straplike, green Seeds itself in rich
leichtlinii (syn. waxen, on long stems, damp soil, seldom
‘Alba’) may be double (M) needs support, RHS
Award
l. subsp. suksdorfii 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Deep blue with yellow Broad, upright green
stamens (E) blades
l. subsp. suksdorfii 3–4ft × 1ft 3–8 Dark blue (E) Wide, green blade Very strong plant,
‘Blauwe Donau’ will make immense
dense clumps
quamash (syn. 1½ft × 1ft 3–8 Violet blue-white Narrow, grasslike, green Good cut, vigorous
esculenta) (E–M)

Campanula 119
Campanula lactiflora.
CAMPANULA Campanulaceae
You know it’s a campanula when you see a cup- or bell-shaped corolla made up of five petals
fused at the base. The petals will usually be blue, but some are purple, white, lilac, rarely red or
yellow. There is a campanula for almost any niche, and there are campanulas determined to fill
every niche!
Campanula is a very complex genus; we have divided its members into three groups and have
noted in the chart to which group each species or cultivar belongs. Some of them do well in the alpine
or rock garden, many suit the border, and a few have unique characteristics. Campanula carpatica
and its many cultivars are good plants for the front of the border, large rockery, or containers.
Campanula persicifolia, which also has many forms, is an excellent cut flower. Campanula glom-
erata, C. latifolia, C. lactiflora, and C. latiloba are also suitable for cutting. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Latin campana (“bell”), referring to the shape of the flowers.
Common Name: Bellflower.
Preferred Conditions / Light:
Group 1. Most taller species and cultivars. Prefer fertile soil that is neutral to alkaline. Moist,
well-drained but will tolerate heavy moist soil. The taller ones may need staking. Cut them
back after flowering to prevent self-sowing and to encourage a second bloom. Sun to part
shade.
Group 2. Alpine, rock garden conditions. Likes moist, well-drained soil. Open sunny area to
part shade. Drought tolerant once established.
Group 3. Those that don’t fall in Group 1 or 2. Campanula carpatica falls between Groups 1
and 2; C. primulifolia prefers moist, humus-rich, well-drained soil, and shade; C. rapuncu-
loides spreads quickly in light soil and tolerates a wide range of conditions.
06 12 F08 Perennials G5L 09 X-5 CTP

120 Campanula
Campanula persicifolia, Geum ‘Mrs. J. Bradshaw’, Achillea ‘Moonshine’, Phygelius aequalis ‘Yellow Trumpet’ (top
left), Lonicera nitida ‘Baggesen’s Gold’ (top center), Alstroemeria ligtu hybrid (top right). Design by Rick Kyper.
Management: Many can be deadheaded or cut back for a second bloom, which is often not as
robust as the first flowering. Cut dead foliage down in autumn (or raise rabbits). The taller
ones may need staking. Some may become congested and should be lifted, divided, and
replanted.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; seed; cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, leaf spot, spider mites, powdery mildew, rust.
Companions: Polygonatum, hosta, coreopsis, eryngium, roses, achillea, verbascum, papaver,
dicentra, geranium. If you have a lonely perennial, there is probably a campanula for it.
Notes: Campanula persicifolia, C. poscharskyana, and C. portenschlagiana are all very sun
tolerant if they can root deeply under rocks. The forms of C. carpatica that are noted as
short-lived are often grown as pot plants, for a brief life as a houseplant. Some campanulas
are infinite spreaders (∞) so site them accordingly or mix with other strong, invasive plants
or thugs.

114_159_TP.indd 120 1/11/07 3:22:10 PM
Campanula 121
USDA
Zone
alliariifolia 1½–3ft × 3–8 White or cream, Ovate to cordate, Group 1, clumping,
1½ft bell-shaped, toothed, gray-green, self-sows, vigorous
nodding, long- hairy
blooming (M–L)
alpestris (syn. 5in × 10in 3–8 Lilac or whitish Narrow, green rosettes Group 2,
allionii) purple bells, large rhizomatous,
(E–M) long-lived
‘Birch Hybrid’ 4–8in × 12in+ 4–8 Violet-blue or Ovate to cordate, Group 2, vigorous,
purple, bell-shaped, toothed, bright green, prostrate, RHS Award
nodding, large evergreen
(M–L)
carpatica 6–12in × 12in 3–9 White to dark violet Bright green, toothed, Group 3, Carpathian
or blue, open, up- triangular to rounded or harebell, mounding,
turned large bells, cordate, glossy RHS Award
long-blooming, all
forms have flowers
above the foliage
(M–L)
c. f. alba ‘Weisse 6–12in × 12in 4–9 White bells (M–L) Green, toothed, Group 3, clumping,
Clips’ (syn. ‘White triangular to rounded or spreading, short-lived
Clips’) cordate, glossy
c. ‘Blaue Clips’ 6–12in × 12in 4–9 Lavender-blue, Bright green, toothed, Group 3, compact,
up-facing bells, triangular to rounded or short-lived
large, long-blooming cordate, glossy
(M–L)
c. ‘Chewton Joy’ 6–8in × 12in 4–9 Pale blue with a As above Group 3
darker edge (M)
c. ‘Deep Blue Clips’ 6–10in × 12in 4–9 Deep blue, bell- Dark green, toothed, Group 3, clumping,
shaped, long- triangular to rounded or short-lived
blooming (M–L) cordate, glossy
c. ‘Light Blue Clips’ 6–8in × 10in 3–9 Light blue, long- Bright green, toothed, Group 3, clumping,
blooming (M–L) triangular to rounded or short-lived
cordate, glossy
c. var. turbinata 3–6in × 6in 4–9 Upright, pale blue Dark green Group 3, dwarf
bells (M)
cochleariifolia (syn. 3–6in × 8in+ 4–8 White to pale Rosette-forming, Group 2, fairy
pusilla) blue or lavender, toothed, ovate to cordate thimbles, spreading,
pendent, bell- or lanceolate, bright RHS Award
shaped, all forms green, shiny
have flowers above
the foliage (M)
c. var. alba 3–4in × 6in+ 4–8 White, nodding, As above Group 2, spreading
bell-shaped (M)
c. ‘Elizabeth Oliver’ 3–6in × 6in+ 5–8 Double, pale As above Group 2, slowly
lavender-blue bells spreading
(M)
garganica 2–6in × 12in 5–8 Bright violet-blue to Gray-green, cordate to Group 2, Adriatic
lilac, white throat, kidney-shaped, glossy, bellflower, spreading,
star-shaped clusters toothed RHS Award
(M)

122 Campanula
USDA
Zone
g. ‘Dickson’s Gold’ 4–6in × 10in 4–9 Bright blue, star- Golden yellowish green, Group 2
(syn. ‘Aurea’) shaped (M) cordate
glomerata 1–2ft × 1ft+ 3–9 Clusters of dark Hairy, wavy, toothed, Group 1, long-lasting,
violet-blue up-facing ovate to lanceolate, dark good cut, invasive
bells (E–M) green spreader
g. var. alba 1–2ft × 1ft+ 3–9 White, bell-shaped Green Group 1, cut back
(M) for repeat bloom,
vigorous
g. var. alba 16–20in × 3–8 Dense cluster of Deep rich green Group 1, good cut
‘Schneekrone’ (syn. 18in+ white bells (M)
‘Crown of Snow’)
g. ‘Joan Elliott’ 16–18in × 3–8 Deep violet-blue, As above Group 1, good cut,
18in bell-shaped, up- invasive
facing, large long-
blooming (E–M)
g. ‘Superba’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 3–8 Deep violet-blue Dark green Group 1, good cut,
clusters, bell- aggressive, RHS
shaped, large (M) Award
kemulariae 1ft × 1ft+ 4–9 Bright, purplish Shiny, green, cordate to Group 2, clump-
blue, broad bell- oval, toothed forming, spreading
shaped (E–M)
‘Kent Belle’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 5–9 Deep violet-blue, Glossy, green Group 1, good cut,
glossy bells, large, vigorous, spreading,
very rich color RHS Award
(M–L)
lactiflora 4–5ft × 2ft 4–8 Light blue to milky Rosettes of mid- Group 1, milky
white, up-facing green, toothed, bellflower, may need
(M–L) oval to lanceolate, support, self-sows, its
clump-forming cultivars do not come
true from seed
l. ‘Loddon Anna’ 3–5ft × 2ft 4–8 Soft pink to lilac, As above Group 1, may need
nodding (M–L) support, doesn’t come
true from seed, RHS
Award
l. ‘Pouffe’ 10–18in × 4–8 Pale lavender-blue, As above Group 1, shorter
18in long-blooming variety, mounding
(M–L)
l. ‘Prichard’s 3–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Dark violet-blue, As above Group 1, clump-
Variety’ white center, bell- forming, RHS Award
shaped, large (M–L)
l. ‘White Pouffe’ 10–18in × 4–8 White (M–L) As above Group 1, same as
18in C. lactiflora ‘Pouffe’
but white
latifolia 3–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Violet-blue, tubular Ovate to oblong, Group 1, great bell
bells (M) toothed, coarse, mid- flower, self-sows,
green, nettlelike vigorous
l. var. macrantha 3–4ft × 2ft 3–10 Dark purplish blue Sparse Group 1, good cut
(M)

Campanula 123
USDA
Zone
latiloba 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Rich lavender-blue Mid-green rosettes, Group 1, good cut,
on stiff erect stems, long, narrow, toothed evergreen
cup-shaped (M)
l. ‘Alba’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–8 White, creamy Deep green rosettes Group 1, evergreen,
chartreuse buds (M) good cut, RHS Award
l. ‘Hidcote 2–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Light lilac-pink Deep green rosettes, Group 1, evergreen,
Amethyst’ with deeper purple a bit scruffy after RHS Award
shading (M) flowering
persicifolia 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Lilac-blue or Narrow, bright green, Group 1, evergreen,
white, nodding, toothed, glossy self-sows, good cut
cup-shaped, long-
blooming (M)
p. var. alba 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 White, open cup- As above As above
shaped (M)
p. ‘Boule de Neige’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Double white (M) As above As above
p. ‘Chettle Charm’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Cream-white, edged Deep green, willowy As above
(syn. ‘George in pale lavender,
Chiswell’) bell-shaped (E–M)
p. ‘Grandiflora Alba’ 2½–4ft × 3–7 Pure white with Green, willowy As above
1½ft+ purplish hue, large
(M)
p. ‘Kelly’s Gold’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Blue (M) Golden yellow Group 1, good cut,
grown for its foliage,
evergreen
p. ‘Telham Beauty’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Pale china-blue, Deep green Group 1, good cut,
cup-shaped, large evergreen
(M)
portenschlagiana 6–9in × 4–9 Pale lavender, bell- Mid-green rosettes, Group 2, evergreen,
(syn. muralis) 1½ft+ shaped, white center glossy, toothed, wavy, Dalmatian bellflower,
(E–L) cordate RHS Award
p. ‘Resholdt’s 4–8in × 8in+ 4–9 Deep vivid violet- Cordate, scalloped, Group 2, not hard to
Variety’ blue, bell-shaped, mid-green control, trailing
large (M)
poscharskyana 6–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, white Mid-green, toothed, Group 2, Siberian
12in+ center (E–L) round to ovate bellflower, self-sows,
vigorous, invasive
p. ‘E. H. Frost’ 4–6in × 3–9 Milky white with Mid-green Group 2
12in+ pale blue eye (E–M)
p. ‘Stella’ 6–15in × 3–8 Dark violet-blue, Deep green, cordate Group 2, not as
12in+ white center, star- aggressive, RHS
shaped (M–L) Award
primulifolia 3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Purple-blue with Green, coarse, hairy, in Group 3, short-lived,
paler base, wide up- basal rosettes self-sows
facing (M)
punctata 1–2ft × ∞ 4–9 Creamy-white or Dark green rosettes, Group 1, invasive,
mauve, flushed pink, ovate, toothed, slightly conditions determine
dotted red inside, hairy, cordate at base its spreading
large pendent bells
(M)

124 Campanula
USDA
Zone
p. f. rubriflora 1–2ft × ∞ 5–9 Cream to rosy- Rich green Group 1, vigorous
purple with crimson
spots, large pendent
bells (M)
p. f. rubriflora 1–2ft × ∞ 5–9 Cherry-red, edged in Mid-green Group 1, erect,
‘Cherry Bells’ white, large pendent vigorous, good cut
bells (M)
p. ‘Wedding Bells’ 1½–2ft × ∞ 5–9 Double white (hose Deep green Group 1, spreading
in hose), flushed
pink, spotted deep
red inside, large
pendent bells (M)
pyramidalis 4–6ft × 1½ft 8–10 Light blue or white, Light to mid-green Group 1, chimney
starry cups, fragrant, rosettes, ovate to bellflower, often
flowers last longer lanceolate, toothed, treated as a biennial,
if not pollinated glossy self-sows, short-lived,
(E–M) needs support
p. alba 4–6ft × 1½ft 8–10 White, cup-shaped, As above As above
fragrant, flowers
last longer if not
pollinated (M)
rapunculoides 2–4ft × ∞ 3–10 Violet-blue, starry Green, nettlelike, Group 3, self-sows,
bells (M–L) toothed, ovate to creeping, thug
cordate, veined
rotundifolia 1–1½ft × 1ft 3–9 Dark blue to light Rounded rosettes, upper Group 2, harebells,
lavender-blue to leaves narrow, grasslike, vigorous,
white, bell-shaped, toothed, light green long-blooming
nodding, above
foliage (M–L)
r. ‘Olympica’ 9–12in × 12in 3–9 Dark blue, nodding, Dark green, toothed Group 2, good cut,
bell-shaped, above compact
foliage (M)
takesimana 1½–2ft × ∞ 5–8 Pale lilac and white, Basal rosettes, cordate, Group 1, Korean
spotted maroon toothed, mid-green with bellflower, colonizes,
inside, tubular bells reddish tinge, glossy rhizomatous
(M–L)
t. ‘Beautiful Trust’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 White, like a giant Mid-green, divided, Group 1, vigorous
vancouveria, many toothed and laced
petals (M–L)
t. ‘Elizabeth’ 1½–2ft × ∞ 5–8 Rose-pink, spotted Rosettes, heart-shaped, Group 1, vigorous,
deep red inside, toothed, mid-green rhizomatous
pendent, bell-
shaped (M)
trachelium 2–3ft × ∞ 4–8 Mid-blue to lilac, Mid-green, sometimes Group 1, nettle-leaved
purple or white, red-tinged, toothed, bellflower, spreading
tubular bells (M) ovate
t. ‘Bernice’ 1½–2ft × ∞ 4–8 Double, lilac-blue, As above Group 1, slow-
starry bells (M) growing, good
cut, clumping and
spreading

Canna 125
CANNA Cannaceae
Cannas are among the easiest and most popular bold-

foliaged subtropical plants for non-subtropical climates, and
new cultivars are appearing in nurseries every year. Most
are tender and must either be dug and stored or left to dry
in the pots and kept from freezing. Once growth has begun,
you will get better results with a program of regular feeding
and plenty of water. If you let them go to seed, you will find
out why they are called Indian shot, although spent-flower
removal will increase your flower production.
We have found we can mulch the hardier forms with a
mound of their own dead leaves; this protects the crown
from a hard freeze. The only problem with this is they will
not grow until the ground warms up, which can delay leaf
and flower production. As cannas are mostly used for their
bold foliage, they are often best in pots, where you can
watch for slugs; the soil heats up earlier in a container, and
you can feed plants more often and locate them so that the
wind does not damage the leaves. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek kanna (“reed”).

Common Name: Indian shot.
Origin: Central and South America, West Indies, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, moisture-retentive soil,
rich in organic material. Tolerates a wide range of soil.
Light: Sun. Tolerates part shade but will not bloom as
much. Canna ‘Cleopatra’.
Planting: Plant rootstock in spring after all danger of frost
is past, five inches deep.
Management: They’re heavy feeders during the growing season. Top-dress with compost
or manure in winter. Cannas will need a protective winter mulch, or dig them up and
overwinter. They need plenty of water during growing time. Remove faded flowers after
bloom to promote continued flowering. Cut just below the lowest flower on the stalk and a
secondary stalk will form, or if foliage is the main attraction, cut stalks back into the foliage.
The tuberous rootstock can be dug up in the fall and stored in a frost-free place and then
started into growth again the next spring, six to eight weeks before the last anticipated frost.
After the foliage has turned black, cut the stems back to about six inches. Lift the clumps,
retaining as much soil as possible, and place in a container or a box. Store them in a dry
place with temperatures between 40 and 50F. You may need to sprinkle them with a bit
of water to keep the roots from drying out. In early spring, remove the soil and cut root-
stock into sections two to four inches long, making sure each section has an eye. Let the
cut rhizomes air-dry overnight. Pot up each rhizome and place in a greenhouse or sunny
window. Water lightly until first signs of growth.
Propagation: Division of fleshy rootstock in spring after winter storage.
Companions: Ornamental grasses and bananas, hedychium, solenostemon (syn. coleus), dahlia,
tropaeolum, crocosmia.

126 Canna
Notes: The common name Indian shot comes from its seed, which is the size of a large pea.
The cut flowers do not keep well. The cultivars in our list are primarily ×generalis hybrids
and can be grown in water and damp sites; an undivided clump can get wider than the chart
shows by the second year.
USDA
Zone
‘Cleopatra’ 4½ft × 1½ft 8–10 Red and yellow (M) Green with large purple
blotches
‘Durban’ 4½ft × 1½ft 8–10 Scarlet (E–M) Reddish purple with
yellow veins
edulis 4ft × 2ft 8–10 Small, orange (E–L) Gray-green, smallish Will spread slowly
glauca 4ft × 2ft 8–10 Nectarine-orange, Narrow, blue-green Erect, can grow in
small (M) standing water
indica 4–6ft × 2ft 8–10 Rich red on Bronze-flushed, 1½ft
burnished dull red long
stems (E–L)
iridiflora 5ft × 2ft 8–10 Deep pink, trumpet- Blue-green, 2–3ft,
shaped, pendent (L) handsome
‘Panache’ 5–6ft × 1½ft 8–10 Salmon-pink at base Gray-green, narrow Can grow in standing
to pale yellow at tip water
(M–L)
‘Phasion’ (syn. 5–6ft × 1½ft 8–10 Bright orange (M–L) Emerge purple, become RHS Award
‘Tropicanna’) striped with red, yellow,
green, and pink
‘President’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 8–10 Large, bright red Dark green, glossy
(M–L)
‘Striata’ (syn. 6–7ft × 1½ft 8–10 Bright orange and Bold, densely striped Likes it wet, RHS
‘Pretoria’, ‘Bengal yellow (M) green and yellow with Award
Tiger’) maroon edge
‘Striped Beauty’ 4½ft × 1½ft 8–10 Red buds open to a Variegated white, green,
(syn. ‘Minerva’, burnt yellow (M–L) and yellow on green
‘Nirvana’) background
‘Stuttgart’ 6–7ft × 1½ft 8–10 Soft apricot-pink Bold, green and white
(M–L) irregular stripes, will
burn in full sun but
needs the heat
‘Wyoming’ 6ft × 1½ft 8–10 Apricot-orange, Purple, tinged green RHS Award
frilled (M–L)

Cardamine 127
Cardamine pratensis
CARDAMINE Brassicaceae ‘Flore Pleno’.
For many years the ordinary lady’s smock or cuckooflower was the only cardamine we had
for our enjoyment. Looking just like common shotweed or bittercress when not in flower,
C. pratensis is often inadvertently weeded out in spring, but don’t panic—it transplants well.
Look for its lovely double pink form. We now have many newer cardamines thanks to the late,
lamented Heronswood and other mail-order nurseries. As with C. pratensis, the flowers are
brief but sweet. Grow in a woodland or part shade location; cardamines, especially the larger
forms, respond well to a mulching of leaf mold. They can run a bit by very brittle rhizomes, so
share with friends. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek for a related plant, kardamon (“watercress”).
Common Name: Bittercress, cuckooflower.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moisture-retentive, moist soil.
Light: Shade to part shade. Tolerates sun if kept moist.
Management: Top-dress with leaf mold or other organic material. Cut back as foliage begins to
fade. Some go into dormancy early.
Propagation: Divide in spring or after flowering. May also form offsets or plantlets that can be
replanted. Sow seed in cold frame in autumn or spring.

128 Cardamine
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, slugs, rust.

Companions: Corydalis, Pacific Coast iris, primula, pulmonaria, viola, brunnera, helleborus,
narcissus.
Notes: Graham Stuart Thomas (1990) uses this as an alternative to the usual swear words,
“Cardamine! Damnacanthus!” Cardamine pratensis is a sweet plant, but the foliage looks just
like common shotweed.
USDA
Zone
diphylla 6–9in × 2ft+ 5–8 White (E) Dark green, 3 leaflets Stoloniferous,
eastern North
America, summer
dormant
dissecta 10–12in × 5–8 Pink, bell-shaped (E) Green, ferny, deeply Eastern North
24in dissected America, goes
dormant by
midsummer
enneaphylla 8–12in × 18in 5–8 Creamy yellow, Purplish, aging to dark Eastern Europe
nodding (E) green
heptaphylla 12–20in × 5–8 White, large (E) Dark green, pinnate, 5–7 Eastern Europe
24in leaflets
laciniata 8–15in × 24in 6–8 Pinkish white (E) Green, deeply dissected Eastern North
America, cut-leaved
toothwort; goes
dormant after bloom
macrophylla 18–24in × 5–8 Lilac-pink (M) Green with bronze tinge, Eastern Nepal,
24in large-leaved, pinnate winter and summer
dormant in drought
maxima 6–16in × 16in 5–8 Large white or pale Bold, 3-parted, green Eastern North
purple (E) America
pentaphylla 12in × 12in+ 5–8 White buds opening Mid-green, pinnate Eastern Europe,
to a soft lilac-pink (E) RHS Award
pratensis 12–18in × 5–8 Lilac or white (E) Ferny, dark green, in Happy in bog
10in+ clumps conditions, tends to
run and needs to be
thinned out.
p. ‘Edith’ 6–9in × 10in+ 5–8 Double, pink in bud, Ferny, dark green As above
opening to white (E)
p. ‘Flore Pleno’ 8–12in × 5–8 Double, lilac-pink (E) Small, cresslike, in a flat Longer lasting
10in+ rosette flowers, runs, RHS
Award
quinquefolia 4in × 12in+ 6–8 Light lavender (E) Glossy, green Eastern Europe,
evergreen
rhaphanifolia (syn. 15in × 15in+ 5–8 Purple, lilac, or white Dark green, evergreen
latifolia) (E–M)
trifolia 6in × 6–24in 5–8 White, sometimes Dark green, purple Italy, Croatia, makes
pink (E) reverse, 3-parted, a dense low clump
evergreen
waldsteinii 10in × 12in 5–8 White, largest flowers Dark green Large mats, winter
(E) dormant

Centaurea 129
Centaurea montana
CENTAUREA Asteraceae ‘Gold Bullion’.
The bachelor’s buttons are a colorful group of flowers perfectly suited for an informal, old-fash-
ioned cottage garden. The fringed and ruffled flowers bloom in shades of pink, yellow, purple,
white, and deep blue; they are long-blooming, from late spring to midsummer. The foliage varies
from species to species, in texture, color, and shape.
Centaurea macrocephala is a standout, not only for its stately size but for its incredible flower
buds, which open to golden yellow thistlelike blooms. You can find this species on some state
noxious weed lists. Although it’s not a problem in western Washington, be cautious and do not
let it escape your garden. Centaurea montana is everyone’s first plant and is still popular with its
early blue flowers. Unfortunately, mildew can make them unsightly, but cutting them back after
the first bloom will produce a fresh crop of leaves and a second bloom. Under the right condi-
tions, it will self-sow with a vengeance.
Many centaureas are good for cut flowers, both in fresh and dried arrangements. ~ Susan
Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek kentauras (centaur); centaurs are said to have used it
medicinally.
Common Name: Bachelor’s button, cornflower.
Origin: Asia Minor, Europe, Mediterranean.

130 Centaurea
Preferred Conditions: Average, well-drained (especially in winter) soil. Tolerates drought in

summer. Becomes lanky and flops in the shade.
Planting: Set out for planting anytime the weather is mild enough, but best in spring or fall.
Management: Deadhead for second bloom and to avoid self-sowing. Cut back flower stems in
summer after bloom. Cut to the ground after frost when foliage becomes black and mushy.
Centaurea montana will get the flops plus mildew (this can be limited by cutting back hard
after the spring flush of bloom); it also benefits from division every three years.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust.
Companions: Campanula, Iris sibirica, I. germanica, delphinium, alchemilla, tradescantia, low
grasses; the spring cottage garden.
Notes: Cornflowers are a group of wildflowers that were common (especially the annual
C. cyanus) to wheat fields in Europe and England in the Middle Ages (corn was the original
term for wheat).
USDA
Zone
dealbata 2–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Lilac, pink, and Light green, finely cut Persian cornflower,
purple with white to deeply lobed, gray good cut, may need
inside (M–L) reverse staking
d. ‘Rosea’ 1½–2½ft 4–8 Soft rose-pink (M) Gray-green, finely cut May need support
× 2ft
hypoleuca ‘John 1½–2½ft 4–8 Deep rose, long- Green, deeply lobed, Good seedheads
Coutts’ × 2ft blooming (E–M) bluish white underneath
macrocephala 3½–4ft × 4–8 Golden yellow, very Light green, bold Incredible flower
2–2½ft thistlelike (M) buds, on noxious
weed list in some
states
montana 1½ft × 2ft 4–8 Deep blue, star- Narrow, grayish green Floppy, self-sows
shaped, with reddish
thistlelike center
(E–M)
m. ‘Gold Bullion’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–8 As above Pale golden yellow From Blooms of
Bressingham
ruthenica 3–4½ft × 6–8 Lemon-yellow with Dark green, ferny,
2–2½ft thistlelike center (M) toothed, green
undersides

Centranthus 131
Centranthus ruber with Sisyrinchium striatum, Hesperis matronalis, Linaria triornithophora, Lysimachia punctata,
columbines, roses, and ripening euphorbia foliage.
CENTRANTHUS Valerianaceae
Centranthus is a monotypic (one-species) genus. Plants are used as fillers or knitters rather than
as specimens and are best planted in groups of the same color (or repeated in close proximity).
In flower, they have a rather frothy appearance; the white form looks lovely with pale-flow-
ered bearded iris and early roses. Short-lived (two to three years), they ensure their survival by
sowing about. Remove older plants in favor of youthful seedlings and remove most seedlings to
prevent being overrun with centranthus; they are very easy to remove. Centranthus has pleasant,
smooth grayish leaves that are a nice foil to the spurred flowers. They are good cut flowers and
attract butterflies—think cottage garden. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek kentron (“spur”) and anthos (“flower”).
Common Name: Red valerian, Jupiter’s beard.

132 Centranthus
Centranthus ruber
mixed.
Preferred Conditions: Average, well-drained soil. Thrives in infertile, chalky soil (i.e., White
Cliffs of Dover and Seattle back alleys) and may flop in soils that are too rich. Drought
tolerant even in full sun.
Management: Cut back flowering heads every time they finish to stimulate continued bloom
all summer. Deadheading before they go to seed helps prevent their taking over. This is a
tap-rooted plant and does not like to be disturbed. Clean up in autumn.
Propagation: Seed or basal cuttings in spring or summer.
Pests and Diseases: Resistant to most all problems.
Companions: Echinacea, cosmos, nepeta, bearded irises, geranium, Papaver orientale, Iris
sibirica; the wild seashore garden; often colonizes abandoned lots and old rockeries.
USDA
Zone
ruber 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Tiny, deep rosy-pink, Fleshy, glaucous Often naturalized
in compact sprays, in cracks in walls,
fragrant (M–L) self-sows
r. ‘Albus’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Clean white, fragrant As above Good cut, less seen
(M–L) naturalized in cracks
in walls
r. var. coccineus 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Deep coppery-red, As above Good cut, often
fragrant (M–L) naturalized in cracks
in walls
r. ‘Roseus’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Rose-pink, fragrant As above As above
(M–L)

Cephalaria 133
Cephalaria gigantea.
CEPHALARIA Dipsacaceae
We deal with two good garden plants here, both having flowers just like a scabiosa and both pale
yellow. They would benefit from staking but do not look good tied up; pea sticks would be the
better method, although the plants don’t hide them well. They are large-scale background plants
for the mixed border; try to give them full sun. As with all teasels, these make good cut flowers
and have interesting seedheads. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek kephale (“head”), referring to the flowers, which are borne in
heads.
Common Name: Giant scabious.
Origin: Siberia, Central Alps.
Preferred Conditions: Average soil with organic material. Likes it moist.
Planting: Deep rooted so plant out when young. It’s best to start with new plants rather than
trying to transplant or divide. Plant in autumn or spring.
USDA
Zone
gigantea (syn. 5–8ft × 3ft+ 3–8 Pale primrose-yellow, Dark green, divided, May need staking in
tatarica) green center on wiry hairy undersides exposed areas, not
stems (M) long-lived, self-sows
leucantha 5–8ft × 3ft+ 3–8 Paler yellow than Dark green, a bit less Round seedheads
above on nearly coarse than above
rounded stems (M)

134 Ceratostigma
Management: You can pinch the stems of C. gigantea in late spring to keep them below six
feet and increase width. Deadhead C. gigantea to prevent self-sowing. May need staking in
exposed areas. Top-dress with manure or compost in winter. Carefully divide or start new
plants every five years or when vigor declines. If allowed to dry out, leaf margins turn black
and the foliage quickly deteriorates. Cut back in fall when dormant.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed in cold frame early spring or fall.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs on new growth can be a problem in early spring.
Companions: Ligularia, miscanthus, Campanula lactiflora, Crambe cordifolia, phygelius (yellow
forms); mixes well with the herbaceous shrub background of a mixed border, especially
yellow-variegated shrubs.
Notes: Both form the most wonderful pale cream seedheads.
CERATOSTIGMA Plumbaginaceae
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides is a very good groundcover with terminal heads of blue flowers
blooming from August through October. Plants form attractive colonies of new growth in spring;
the foliage is green throughout the growing season until fall, when the onset of cool weather
turns the foliage scarlet. Then the plant is at its own form of perfection: blue flowers atop red
foliage. Best in sun, these would be lovely with red-foliaged barberries, and I have used them to
good effect as a carpet under white-flowering roses. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek keras (“horn”), referring to the hornlike growth on the
stigma.
Common Name: Leadwort, blue plumbago.
Origin: China, Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Average, well-drained, light, humus-rich soil. Adapts to a wide range of
conditions, even poor, stony soil. Likes it moist but will not tolerate soggy conditions.
Planting: Plant out before midsummer, best in the spring.
Management: Breaks dormancy late and may be damaged by late frost or gardeners with
clumsy feet. Cut to the ground in winter when dormant. Older plants die out in the center,
so dig out dead area and fill in gap with fresh soil. Appreciates a winter mulch in colder
areas.
Propagation: Division, tip cuttings, or seed in spring.
Companions: Grow as a groundcover under late-season colored foliage such as grasses,
Berberis thunbergii, Acer palmatum, Hydrangea quercifolia, disanthus, fuchsia.
Notes: Slow in the Pacific Northwest, where a close planting of four-inch pots is recommended
for C. plumbaginoides.

Ceratostigma 135
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, fall color.
USDA
Zone
griffithii 2ft × 2ft 8–10 Bright blue (L) Gray-green with bronze Subshrub, full sun,
tints in autumn winter protection, cut
to ground in spring
plumbaginoides 8–12in × 18in 6–9 Intense gentian-blue, Dark green, rounded, Compact, low-
5-petaled (M–L) smooth, turning red spreading, RHS
in fall Award
willmottianum 1½ft × 2ft 7–10 Cobalt-blue (M–L) Green with red tints Subshrub, cut to
in leaves and stems in ground in spring, put
autumn in a protected location

136 Chaerophyllum
Chaerophyllum hirsutum
‘Roseum’.
CHAEROPHYLLUM Apiaceae
Impossible to pronounce, impossible to resist! This perennial has finely divided foliage like
Queen Anne’s lace but softer, with similar flowers on shorter stems. But the final step toward
perfection: the flowers are pink. Chaerophyllum hirsutum ‘Roseum’ is fairly tolerant of a sunny
location if in heavy soil. We have discovered that this plant does not like fall division. It also
has stolonlike structures, which often lie over the crown; these will root if broken off in early
spring—a simple method of propagation. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek chairo (“to please”) and phyllon (“leaf”).
Common Name: Chervil.
Origin: Southern Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Average, moist soil.
Management: Cut down in fall after foliage dies back. Don’t allow it to be overgrown by other
plants.
Propagation: Sow seed in cold frame in spring or as soon as ripe; divide in spring just before
growth begins.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, slugs, snails, powdery mildew (if too dry).
Companions: Primula, paeonia (early forms), geranium, Stachys byzantina, white narcissus,
tulips, shorter grasses, hyacinth, viola.
USDA
Zone
hirsutum ‘Roseum’ 2ft × 2ft+ 6–8 Soft pink flat-topped Bright green, finely cut Entire plant is
umbels (E) slightly aromatic

Chelone 137
CHELONE Scrophulariaceae
A perennial requiring very little care. Cut down in winter;

don’t let them dry out; divide if necessary (when they take
up more space than you want, or are not flowering because
they need “freshening”). That’s it! Plants are erect and
about three feet tall, maximum, standing up with no staking.
Very nice dark green leaves are topped by tubular flowers in
pink or white, looking like upright turtles’ heads with their
mouths agape. Very good for the late-summer border, and a
good cut flower. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek chelone (“turtle”); the

corolla is shaped like a turtle’s head.
Common Name: Turtlehead.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, moisture-retentive, fertile
soil. Likes it moist, near streams and ponds. Tolerant of
dry soil in the summer as long as spring conditions are
moist. Heavy clay and boggy is okay, too.
Management: These are easily maintained plants. Cut
to one inch when dormant. You can pinch to reduce
height, but this may alter the natural form of the plant,
reduce the flower size, and delay bloom time. Mulch
in early spring with manure or compost. Divide when
clumps become too large in spring or late autumn. Chelone lyonii ‘Hot Lips’.
Plants are strong enough on their own and won’t need
staking. Bait crown for slugs.
Propagation: Seed in cold frame in early spring or outdoors when ripe; division in the spring;
soft-tip cuttings in spring or early summer.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew (if too dry), rust, slugs, snails.
Companions: Astilbe chinensis, Cimicifuga simplex, ferns, sedges, Japanese anemones, eupato-
rium, persicaria, aster.
Notes: For cut flowers, remove all the large leaves. In the maritime Northwest, plants are best
in full sun.
USDA
Zone
glabra 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 White flushed with Narrow, dark green White turtlehead,
pink, long-blooming, vigorous, likes cool,
3–4 weeks (M–L) moist conditions
lyonii 2–3ft × 3ft 5–8 Rosy-pink with a Dark green, broader Pink turtlehead,
yellow beard, long- good cut
blooming, 4 weeks
(M–L)
l. ‘Hot Lips’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Rosy-pink with a spot Emerge purplish bronze Long-blooming
of white at base, red and age to deep green,
stems (M–L) toothed
obliqua 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Rosy-purple (M–L) Stiff, dark green Long-blooming,
most heat tolerant

138 Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum
‘Apricot’.
CHRYSANTHEMUM Asteraceae
Few of what were called chrysanthemums are still classified as such. These hardy perennials
are most useful: they flower very late in the season and make large clumps by slow-spreading,
short stolons. The few cultivars we list here are mostly in the rubellum “class,” whose members
produce a tremendous show of flowers; our grandmothers had a better selection of these “true
mums,” which have in large part disappeared from commerce. Please note, autumn chrysanthe-
mums offered in the current market are bred as a pot-crop and are not reliably hardy; they bloom
earlier the following season in the garden and are prone to slug problems.
Related genera are Dendranthema, Leucanthemum, and Tanacetum. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek chrysos (“gold”) and anthos (“flower”).
Common Name: Mum.
Origin: Worldwide.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moist, and humusy but not overly rich soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: Pinch twice after 1 May (one month apart) until mid July to achieve the best
performance. Water freely in dry weather. Cut stems back in fall cleanup after flowering to
six inches (or wait until spring to cut back, the stems will help protect the crown). Apply a
mulch for winter protection and remove in spring, before the slugs dine on the new shoots.
Slugs gravitate toward early crown shoots and can set your plants back a great deal. Watch
for them in early spring.
Propagation: Division in spring every two or three years to maintain vigor.
Companions: Grasses, perovskia, hardy fuchsias, sedum, aster, solidago, salvia.
Notes: The old mums, from pompoms to football mums, were often pinched, disbudded, and
forced into flower in glass greenhouses. Their relations are now available as clusters of small
flowers on long stems in almost any color, even green, at florists and flower stalls. In the
garden these true mums bloomed so late they often had to be covered to protect them from
frost, one of the reasons they have fallen out of fashion.

Chrysogonum 139
USDA
Zone
‘Apricot’ (rubellum) 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Single, soft apricot, Gray-green Good cut
spidery, open (L)
‘Bronze Elegans’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Bronze, buttonlike Pale green Sport of C. ‘Mei-kyo’
(early pompom) (L)
‘Clara Curtis’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Single rose-pink Dark blue-green, Good cut,
(rubellum) with yellow center, divided, bushy clumps long-lasting
fragrant (M–L)
‘Emperor of China’ 4ft × 2ft 5–9 Rose-pink, semi- Green turning crimson May need support
(rubellum) double, longin autumn
blooming (L)
‘Innocence’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Single pale pink with Green Good cut
(rubellum) white eye (L)
‘Mary Stoker’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Large pale apricot As above As above
(rubellum) turning peach, single
(M)
‘Mei-kyo’ (early 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Small, double As above A charming
pompom) lavender-pink (L) buttonlike flower
weyrichii ‘Pink 8–10in × 12in 3–8 Large rosy-pink (L) Shiny, dark green Spreads by stolons,
Bomb’ rock garden plant
w. ‘White Bomb’ 1ft × 1ft 3–8 Single white, aging to As above Free-blooming, good
pink, yellow eye (L) cut, spreads by stolons
CHRYSOGONUM Asteraceae
With a lot of these daisy family genera, we deal with only one species and its cultivars. This one
has two good modern selections that are not too different from the straight species. These are
Chrysogonum
virginianum.

114_159_TP.indd 139 1/11/07 3:20:18 PM
140 Cimicifuga
small plants for us, and not very perennial; they appear to like more heat than we have during
our normal summers. Watch for slugs at all times. Often used as a groundcover in a sunny
location. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek chrysos (“golden”) and gonu (“knee”), referring to the yellow
flowers and jointed stems.
Common Name: Goldenstar.
Origin: Eastern North America.
Preferred Conditions: Average, moisture-retentive, humus-rich, well-drained soil.
Light: Part shade. Tolerates sun if kept moist.
Management: Tidy up in fall cleanup
Propagation: Division in spring or fall, or separate runners and replant; seed as soon as ripe.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, polemonium, geranium.
USDA
Zone
virginianum 6–12in × 12in 4–9 Solitary, bright yellow, Dark green, slightly Long bloomer,
starry, 5-petaled, toothed and hairy groundcover, may
on long hairy stems be evergreen in mild
(E–L) winters
v. ‘Allen Bush’ 10in × 12in 4–9 Small, star-shaped, Green Long bloomer
yellow, 5-petaled (E)
v. ‘Pierre’ 6in × 12in 4–9 Small yellow daisy (E) Soft green, As above
clump-forming
CIMICIFUGA Ranunculaceae
Cimicifuga (syn. Actaea) is a genus of woodland plants with

deeply divided foliage and a tall, spikelike inflorescence of
usually white flowers made up mostly of stamens. Bugbanes
are striking perennials, with welcome late flowers; they are
almost the last of the woodland perennials to bloom and the
very last to ripen their seeds. The clusters of seedpods are
very decorative in a dried arrangement. We have found that
most do better in more sun rather than less, and the dark-
foliage forms are actually better colored with a good half-
day of sun. Watch for slugs in early spring and mark the
crowns, as the emerging new growth is very brittle and very
late, so can easily be damaged. Moisture is a requirement
for cimicifugas, and they are slow-growing.
We have left the cimicifugas separate from the actaeas: we
consider them to be different enough to warrant their own
place, even though taxonomists may disagree. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Latin cimex (“bug”) and fugo

(“to repel”).
Common Name: Bugbane, snakeroot, black cohosh.
Origin: Siberia, Japan, North America, China, Korea,
Cimicifuga simplex Atropurpurea Group ‘Brunette’. Russia.

Cimicifuga 141
Preferred Conditions: Very adaptable but prefers humus-rich, cool, deep soil. Drought
tolerant once established.
Management: Easy to care for. Cut down in fall after frost. Mulch to keep cool and moist. They
usually don’t need staking, and they don’t like being disturbed. They are late to emerge, so
mark the location and leave several inches of stems so you know where they are and don’t
accidentally step on the crowns.
Pests and Diseases: Rust and slugs.
Companions: Hakonechloa, boltonia, geranium, hosta, heuchera, aconitum, ferns, Anemone
japonica, miscanthus, rodgersia (or other shade lovers with bold foliage), lilies.
Notes: A wilt in growth will severely affect flower quality. Bloom time order is C. racemosa,
C. dahurica, C. simplex, and C. matsumurae.
USDA
Zone
dahurica 5–6ft × 3ft 4–9 Creamy-white fluffy Green tripartite leaflets, Clump-forming
sprays, fragrant (M) ovate to heart-shaped,
divided, toothed
japonica (syn. 2–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Pure white, pink- Dark green, shiny, Ground-hugging
acerina) blushed, dense, starry divided, toothed, foliage, purplish
(M–L) maplelike leaflets black stems
matsumurae 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Purplish brown buds Dark green, finely Purplish black
‘Elstead Variety’ open to pure white, divided stems, RHS Award
fragrant (L)
m. ‘White Pearl’ 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Pale green buds open Light green, finely cut, Pale green
to creamy-white, tripartite seedpods ripen to
fragrant (L) light brown, latest
to flower
racemosa 6–8ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Creamy-white, Dark green, divided, Black snakeroot,
narrow bottlebrushes, toothed clumping, RHS
fragrant (M) Award
simplex 3–6ft × 2ft 4–8 White, fragrant (M–L) Light green, smooth, Leaves scorch in
divided sun
s. Atropurpurea 4–8ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Creamy-white, purple Dark coppery-purple; Reddish purple
Group in bud, fragrant (M–L) color may vary if grown stems, too much
from seed heat may drain
color
s. Atropurpurea 4–6ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Creamy-white with Glossy, lacy, bronze- Purple seedpods,
Group ‘Brunette’ pink-purple tinge, purple-black, black- too much heat may
fragrant (M–L) purple stems drain color from
leaves, RHS Award
s. Atropurpurea 4–7ft × 2ft+ 4–8 White with pink tinge, Dark purplish black, Darkest leaf color
Group ‘Hillside fragrant (M–L) retains color throughout so far
Black Beauty’ the season
s. Atropurpurea 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Creamy-white, Dark purple, very stable Flowers are above
Group ‘James fragrant (M–L) color the foliage
Compton’
s. ‘Pritchard’s Giant’ 5–7ft × 2ft+ 4–9 As above Grayish green, divided, Amazingly tall
(syn. ramosa) reddish stems

142 Cirsium
Cirsium rivulare
‘Atropurpureum’.
CIRSIUM Asteraceae
A good plant with a thistlelike appearance. The fact that it vaguely resembles a common thistle
in flower may frighten some people, but in the case of C. rivulare ‘Atropurpureum’ nothing is to
be feared. This plant has a slowly spreading, groundlevel rosette–forming habit. When it flowers,
the stems rise to approximately four feet. These lax stems could be staked, but how? There are
usually half a dozen on a well-established plant, carrying flowers in an appealing shade of garnet,
which must be why many of us grow this somewhat ungainly beauty. Full sun and poor soil
might help with the habit. There is an uncommon rose-pink form. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek kirsion, a kind of thistle.

Common Name: Plume thistle.
Origin: Europe, Russia.
Preferred Conditions: Average, moisture-retentive, well-drained, humus-rich, lime-free soil.
Tolerant of poor soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: Water well during the growing season. Deadhead to prevent self-sowing. Cut back
in the fall when foliage dies down. May rebloom if you cut flower stems down after plant is
finished blooming. Flower stems may require some support to prevent them from flopping.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed in spring or as soon as ripe.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust.
Companions: Hardy fuchsias, penstemon, bergenia, Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’, Stachys
macrantha; a plant for the summer border.
USDA
Zone
rivulare 4ft × 2ft 4–8 Deep maroon, Dark green, narrow, Clump-forming;
‘Atropurpureum’ pincushionlike, on prickly-looking spreads but not
erect stems (M) invasive

Clematis 143
Clematis ×durandii.
CLEMATIS Ranunculaceae
Hardy herbaceous clematis are not the vines that most people associate clematis with, but instead
are deciduous, shrubby or scrambling short-climbing perennials that are often left to ramble
through shrubs and other perennials in the border. The flowers of each vary in size and color;
C. recta ‘Purpurea’, for instance, has dark burgundy foliage and fragrant creamy-white flowers
on erect but floppy stems. It looks fabulous at the end of the season with its silvery seedheads,
but it must be supported, or it will flop on the ground. Support it early or regret it.
None of the herbaceous clematis, in fact, have clasping petioles that wrap and support them-
selves around the nearest twig or trellis. Some weave, sprawl, and flop through any nearby foliage
of perennials, grasses, or shrubs and may need help with support; others have strong stems and
form good shrubby clumps, but even these may need support. All are long-lived and bear flowers
on the current year’s shoots. Some, such as C. recta, C. heracleifolia, and C. ×durandii, make good
cut flowers. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek klematis, a climbing plant.

Common Name: Clematis.
Origin: China, Europe, Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive, humus-rich soil with a cool
root run. They prefer lime but will do fine in neutral to slightly acid soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: Will appreciate monthly feedings throughout the growing season. Staking is
usually needed. Mulch in the winter with organic material. Clematis recta can be cut back by
half after
114_159_TP.indd 143
144 Clematis
flowering. Cut C. recta and C. ×durandii to the ground in fall cleanup. Clematis heracleifolia
and C. integrifolia should be pruned hard in late winter, back to a pair of strong buds near
the ground. Clematis ×jouiniana is pruned back hard once it becomes woody at the base.
Propagation: Division in spring when clumps are big enough (three years old or more), seed,
and cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, powdery mildew.
Companions: Clematis ×durandii with Cornus alba (variegated forms) and Salvia guaranitica;
C. recta ‘Purpurea’ with bronze fennel, Phlox paniculata, miscanthus, Physocarpus opulifolius
‘Diabolo’, Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’.
Notes: The standard method can be used for all herbaceous clematis: cut old growth to the
ground in spring when new growth is beginning. The woodier species should be pruned
back to the lowest pair of buds in early spring. If unsupported, the clematis in the chart will
sometimes reach twice the listed spread.
USDA
Zone
×durandii 3–6ft × 3ft 5–9 Indigo-blue, 4- Dark green, ovate with a Support needed,
petaled, yellowish pointed tip, herbaceous good cut, RHS
stamens, ribbed, Award
semi-nodding at end
(M–L)
heracleifolia 3–5ft × 5ft 3–9 Light blue, small, Broad, divided, dark Strong stems, good
hyacinthlike tubular green, toothed, woody cut, silvery fluffy
clusters, fragrant seedheads
(M–L)
integrifolia 2–3ft × 3ft 3–9 Violet-blue, cream Dark green, ovate- Floppy, sprawling,
anthers, nodding, lanceolate to elliptic, light support, fluffy
urn- or bell-shaped herbaceous silvery-brown
(M–L) seedheads
i. ‘Rosea’ 2ft × 3ft 4–9 Bright pink, scented Dark green, ovate- RHS Award
(M–L) lanceolate to elliptic,
herbaceous
×jouiniana 10–12ft × 4–9 Milky-blue with Mid-green, 3–5 palmate Vigorous, sprawling
12ft+ cream stamens, small, leaflets, woody
fragrant (M–L)
‘Mrs. Robert 5–10ft × 12ft+ 4–9 Starry, pale bluish As above Upright, vigorous
Brydon’ white, fragrant
(M–L)
‘Praecox’ 10–12ft × 3–9 Bluish white and Dark green, large, Needs support, or
12ft+ mauve, creamy-white trifoliate, serrated, let it sprawl, RHS
anthers (M–L) woody Award
recta 4–5ft × 3ft+ 3–9 Star-shaped, creamy- Bluish green, pinnate Erect but leans,
white with creamy with 5–9 ovate leaflets, needs support, fluffy
anthers, fragrant (M) herbaceous silvery seedheads
r. ‘Purpurea’ 4–5ft × 3ft+ 3–9 White with creamy- Copper-purple Silvery seedheads,
white anthers, turning to dark green good cut
purple-red stems, by flowering time,
fragrant (M) herbaceous
tubulosa (syn. 3–4ft × 3ft+ 3–9 Tubular clusters, Deep green, toothed, Needs support,
heracleifolia var. hyacinthlike, indigo- deeply lobed, woody sprawling, silky, hairy
davidiana) blue, fragrant (M–L) seedpods, vigorous
t. ‘Wyevale’ 3–4ft × 3ft+ 3–9 Deep blue, prominent As above Needs support, RHS
yellow stamens, Award
fragrant (M–L)

Convallaria 145
Convallaria majalis
‘Variegata’.
CONVALLARIA Convallariaceae
In my own garden I have a patch of lily of the valley that came to me thirty years ago from my
great-grandmother’s garden. This is worth mentioning because my great-grandmother had the
reputation of having a black thumb—she couldn’t grow much, but this plant did well for her.
Virtually industrial-strength once established, C. majalis comes up in spring and makes a weed-
excluding carpet, especially useful and attractive under shrubs and trees in drier, more “natural”
parts of the garden. The little, white, down-facing bells are lovely on the type plant. They are
fragrant and wonderful for little bouquets, and are often followed with fruit that turns red in fall.
The fruit is very poisonous. The cultivated forms have some good features, too; C. majalis ‘Varie-
gata’ is my favorite of the group for its striped leaves and sweetly fragrant flowers.
Convallaria does not play well with other perennials. As it ages it forms colonies that nothing
else will or can grow in. The roots on an old mass are so dense, you’ll only be able to divide them
by cutting it up into square sections. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Latin convallis (“valley”); plants often grow in valleys in the wild.
Common Name: Lily of the valley.
Origin: Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Thrives in a variety of soils but prefers well-drained, moisture-reten-
tive, and humus-rich, with plenty of water in the spring. Tolerant of poor, dry soil. Leaves
will look poor in dry conditions.
Light: Part shade to sun. Tolerates deep shade. Leaves will be lighter green in sun.
Planting: Plant clumps one to two feet apart, or single pips four to five inches apart and one to
one and a half inches deep. Lay roots horizontally, cover, and water well.
Management: Cut foliage to the ground when it dies back. This plant may need to be
contained. Where spreading is not wanted, a bit of root pruning and removal with a spade is
a quick remedy. Top-dress with leaf mold in autumn. Divide to increase stock, or when they
flower poorly due to overcrowding.

146 Convolvulus
Propagation: Divide roots in fall or February and March, or indeed anytime, as long as proper
attention is given until plants are reestablished.
Pests and Diseases: None.
Companions: Ferns, oxalis, epimedium, asarum, Iris foetidissima, Brunnera macrophylla, Arum
italicum.
Notes: Dead foliage must always be cut off—this plant just won’t let go! In the chart, the symbol
∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
majalis 6–9in × ∞ 1–9 White, nodding, bell- Dark rich green, broad, Rampant
shaped, fragrant (E) often glossy groundcover, can be
a pest, sometimes
red berries in fall,
RHS Award
m. ‘Fortin’s Giant’ 12–15in × ∞ 1–9 Large, showier white As above Vigorous, blooms
bells, fragrant (E) a little later than
species
m. var. rosea 6–8in × ∞ 1–9 Small pinkish, dainty As above Less vigorous a
sprays, fragrant (E) spreader
m. ‘Variegata’ 6in × 1ft+ 1–9 Single white, fragrant Rich green striped with May revert to green
(E) creamy yellow if grown in shade,
less vigorous
CONVOLVULUS Convolvulaceae
Within this family are invasive thugs and ten-foot shrubs. Here we will deal only with two peren-
nial herbaceous forms and one shrubby form in common use. Convolvulus cneorum is lovely in
foliage and flower; C. althaeoides, with finely filigreed foliage, is more a trailer than climber.
Keep it in containers and grow on the dry side. The noninvasive C. sabatius, with lovely trumpet-
shaped sky-blue flowers throughout the summer, is also a great container plant. These plants are
not the stars of the show but are lovely accessories to showier plants. All are marginally hardy
here, with C. cneorum being the most persistent. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Latin convolva (“to twine”).

Common Name: Morning glory.
Origin: Southern Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Light, well-drained soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: An occasional light haircut may improve the shape and encourage new growth.
They may be cut back by frost. They need winter protection and are best kept in a cold
greenhouse during wet winters.
Propagation: Sow seed in late spring; root softwood cuttings in late spring and greenwood
cuttings in summer; division in spring except C. cneorum (cuttings).

Convolvulus 147
Convolvulus sabatius.
Pests and Diseases: Rust, spider mites, aphids.

Companions: Lavender and other gray-leaved plants, low-growing grasses, artemisia, tall
sedums, salvia.
Notes: All convolvulus climbers twine to the right, a totally irrelevant but interesting fact.
USDA
Zone
althaeoides subsp. 3–4ft × 3–4ft 6–8 Pale pink, funnel- Green in spring, changes Has a running root
tenuissimus (syn. shaped, on trailing to silvery gray-green, and can be invasive
elegantissimus) stems (M) finely cut, hairy
cneorum 2–3ft × 2½ft 6–8 Twisted pink buds Silver, softly hairy, Shrubby, RHS Award
opening to white evergreen
(M–L)
sabatius (syn. 1ft × 1½ft 6–8 Pale to mid blue Light green, ovate, Mound-forming,
mauritanicus) (M–L) slightly hairy RHS Award
114_159_TP.indd 147 1/10/07 3:45:10 PM

148 Coreopsis
Coreopsis verticillata
‘Golden Gain’.
COREOPSIS Asteraceae
Coreopsis is a tough, versatile, varied, high-performance perennial with pale to bright yellow,
yellow-orange, red-violet, or pink flowers. Plants are long-blooming, some performing from
spring through fall. They are not long-lived, however—probably only three to four years before
the show begins to dwindle; regenerate from divisions at the outer edge of the clump to help
extend their life. The C. verticillata types have threadlike, airy, bright green foliage rising to two
feet; the C. grandiflora types have dark green, hairy, lanceolate leaves on plants only six to twelve
inches tall.
The modern breeding directions in pink coreopsis have apparently drifted away from peren-
nialhood, as in C. ‘Limerock Ruby’ and C. ‘Limerock Passion’, but these plants are worth the
trouble of replacing every year. Coreopsis verticillata is low-maintenance and a good filler plant
for gaps. Seed-eating birds, such as goldfinches, are attracted to C. grandiflora. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek koris (“bug”) and opsis (“like”), a reference to the seeds,
which look like ticks.
Common Name: Tickseed.
Preferred Conditions: Thrives in most soils but prefers fertile, well-drained, and not too wet.
Overly rich soil promotes flopping, especially in C. grandiflora. Drought tolerant once estab-
lished.
Planting: Bare-root planting is best done in the spring. Potted plants almost anytime except
near a hard frost.
Management: Deadhead to keep flowering. Top-dress with manure in fall. Cut back hard after
frost. Dig up and divide every three years or longer, discarding the oldest sections of the
plants. Before replanting, rejuvenate the soil; this will promote a longer flowering season.
114_159_TP.indd 148 1/11/07 3:16:32 PM

Coreopsis 149
Allow some youngsters in the C. grandiflora group to go to seed. Watch and bait for slugs on
all C. verticillata types in early spring when growth begins to emerge.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; seed (except C. verticillata ‘Moonbeam’, which is
almost sterile).
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, mildew, and root rot if left in standing water.
Companions: Echinacea, campanula, penstemon, santolina, salvia, solidago, grasses, aster,
lavandula, perovskia; try C. verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ with hakonechloa.
Notes: The C. grandiflora types are not long-lived for us; apparently they do not like wet
winters.
USDA
Zone
auriculata 1–2ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Golden yellow single Dark green, ovate Long-blooming,
(E–L) stoloniferous but
seldom invasive
a. ‘Nana’ 6–12in × 12in 3–9 Bright orange-yellow, As above Mouse-ear coreopsis,
long-blooming (E–L) low-spreading, dwarf
‘Goldfink’ (syn. 8–12in × 12in 3–9 Single yellow with As above True dwarf
‘Goldfinch’) orange center on stiff
stems (M–L)
grandiflora 1–2ft × 1½ft 3–9 Bright yellow, orange Dark green, hairy, Self-sows, good cut,
center, semi-double lanceolate short-lived, may
(E–L) bloom itself to death
g. ‘Domino’ 15in × 15in 3–9 Golden yellow, black As above Dwarf
center, large, single
(E–L)
g. ‘Double 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Double golden As above Good cut
Sunburst’ yellow, buttonlike
center (E–L)
g. ‘Early Sunrise’ 1½–2ft × 1½ft 3–9 Large, single golden As above Disease resistant,
yellow, dark center good cut
(E–L)
lanceolata 1–2½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Single yellow on pale Mid-green, narrow, Lanceleaf
green stems, brown mostly basal, hairy coreopsis, similar
center (M–L) to C. grandiflora,
longer-lived
l. ‘Sterntaler’ 1–2½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Golden yellow with Fine, airy, green
brownish center
(E–L)
‘Limerock Passion’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 6–9 Lavender-pink, Dark green, threadlike Short-lived in Pacific
yellow center (M–L) Northwest
‘Limerock Ruby’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 6–9 Ruby-red, yellow As above As above
center (M–L)
rosea 1–2ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Small, rose-pink with Bright green, finely Moisture-loving,
yellow center (M–L) textured (needlelike), short-lived, can
low mounds tolerate more shade
r. ‘American 1–1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Light rose-pink, Green, finely textured, Vigorous spreader,
Dream’ better color than C. low mounds use with caution in
rosea (M–L) the border

150 Corydalis
USDA
Zone
‘Sonnenkind’ (syn. 1–2ft × 1ft 3–9 Golden yellow with Mid-green Good cut, short and
‘Baby Sun’) reddish center, single compact
(M–L)
‘Sunray’ 1½–3ft × 1ft 3–9 Semi-double and As above Good cut, compact
double, large, golden
yellow (M)
‘Tequila Sunrise’ 14–16in × 12in 3–9 Single yellow-orange Olive-green with a A weaker plant
with reddish center cream edge and pinkish
(E–L) tinge, dark purple in fall
tripteris 6–8ft × 2½ft 3–9 Light yellow disk Mid-green, lanceolate Tall tickseed,
florets, turns thrives in part
purplish, fragrant shade, no staking,
(M–L) long-blooming
verticillata 1½–3ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Bright yellow, single Green, threadlike Thread-leaf
(M–L) coreopsis, slow to
emerge in spring
v. ‘Golden Gain’ 16–24in × 2ft+ 3–9 Golden yellow (M) Dark green, needlelike Compact
v. ‘Grandiflora’ 24–30in × 3–9 Large, golden yellow, Green, needlelike, dense Vigorous, good cut,
(syn. ‘Golden 2ft+ star-shaped (M–L) RHS Award
Shower’)
v. ‘Moonbeam’ 1–2ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Pale lemon-yellow Dark green, needlelike Late to emerge, 1992
(E–L) PPA Award, RHS
Award
v. ‘Zagreb’ 1–2ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Brassy yellow (M–L) As above A strong color,
vigorous, late to
emerge, RHS Award
CORYDALIS Papaveraceae
Corydalis is a very popular and interesting genus of plants in the poppy family. The four-petaled,
two-lipped flowers have long spurs and look somewhat like a small snapdragon. Colors range
from bright to pale yellow and on through pink and red to, of course, the blues. The delicate
foliage is often grayish green and finely divided (resembling dicentra foliage, only smaller).
Plants that have been through the “must have” phase include C. flexuosa ‘Blue Panda’, C. f. ‘China
Blue’, and C. f. ‘Père David’—the flexuosa group has wonderful blue flowers. All have a serious
problem with slugs and must be watched carefully to protect them from being eaten up.
These perennials have a range of growing conditions that we have separated into three groups.
Please see the plant chart and note the group each one is associated with. Even though they will
leave an open space when they go summer dormant, don’t let their site get totally overcome by
the summer perennials if you want them to return. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek for “crested lark,” referring to the spur of the flower, which
resembles the crest of a lark.
Common Name: Fumewort, fumitory.
Origin: China, Europe, North America, Britain.
Group 1. Full sun or part shade in fertile, well-drained soil. Self-sows. Evergreen.

Corydalis 151
Corydalis flexuosa
‘China Blue’.
Group 2. Full sun in sharply drained, moderately fertile soil. Tolerates part shade.
Group 3. Part shade in moderately fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil. May go
dormant in the summer, especially in full sun. May rebloom if cut back.
Management: Deadhead to keep self-sowing under control. Cut C. flexuosa to nearly the
ground after flowering; this may stimulate another round of blooming. Dormancy is usually
obvious and can be triggered by heat or drought.
Propagation: Corydalis flexuosa and C. elata can be divided when dormant; seedlings of
C. lutea, C. ochroleuca, C. cheilanthifolia, C. scouleri, and C. solida.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, rust, slugs, and snails (slugs are a serious problem on C. flexuosa).
Companions: Ferns, primula, epimedium, hosta, Ranunculus ficaria, pulmonaria, brunnera,
omphalodes.
Notes: Corydalis flexuosa types do better in heavy soils; loss is almost always due to slug
grazing.
USDA
Zone
‘Blackberry Wine’ 8–15in × 4–9 Deep purple over a Glaucous, divided, lacy Group 1, sprawling,
15in+ base of whitish blue, summer dormant
fragrant (E–L) if dry
cheilanthifolia 8–15in × 5–8 Clusters of bright Fernlike, soft olive- Group 1, not
15in+ yellow with a tint of green, bronze-tinted long-lived
green (E–M)

114_159_TP.indd 151 1/10/07 3:46:44 PM
152 Corydalis
USDA
Zone
elata 10–15in × 5–8 Cobalt-blue on Chartreuse-green, ferny Group 3, clump-
15in+ reddish stems, forming, erect, likes
fragrant (E–M) heat, easier than C.
flexuosa
flexuosa 12–16in × 6–9 Bright blue, Glaucous, may be Group 3, may go
12in+ sometimes purplish, marked with purple, dormant if dry, RHS
white throat (E–M) fernlike Award
f. Award of Merit 12in × 12in+ 5–9 Electric blue (E–M) Glaucous, fernlike Group 3, reblooms
Form in fall if cut back
f. ‘Blue Panda’ 12–15in × 5–9 Bright sky-blue, Glaucous, divided Group 3, less prone
12in+ fragrant (E–M) to going dormant
f. ‘China Blue’ 10–15in × 5–9 Sky-blue, fragrant Glaucous, finely divided, Group 3, may
12in+ (E–M) small reddish blotches rebloom in fall,
vigorous
f. ‘Golden Panda’ 8–12in × 5–9 Cobalt-blue (E–M) Emerge green, become Group 3, weaker
10in+ infused with yellow plant
f. ‘Père David’ 8–12in × 5–9 Bright blue, fragrant Glaucous, marked Group 3, may
12in+ (E–M) purple, divided, willowy rebloom if cut back,
reddish stems vigorous
f. ‘Purple Leaf’ 8–12in × 5–9 Bright-blue (E–M) Purplish blue, especially Group 3
12in+ in spring
lutea 8–15in × 4–8 Golden yellow, tiny Gray-green, divided, Group 1
18in+ (E–L) glossy
ochroleuca 12–15in × 5–9 Pale yellow and Glaucous Group 1,
18in+ white, long spurs semi-evergreen
(E–M)
scouleri 24–36in × 6–7 Pinkish purple or Green, finely divided Group 2, fumewort,
24in+ slowly white, long spurs West Coast native,
(E–M) vigorous
sempervirens 2ft × 2ft 6–9 Tubular, pink and Pale green with whitish Group 2, rock
yellow (E–L) bloom, finely divided harlequin
s. ‘Alba’ 2ft × 2ft 6–9 Creamy-yellow (E–L) As above Group 2
solida (syn. 8in × 10in 5–8 Small, tubular, mauve Bluish gray-green, Group 2, dislikes
bulbosa) to rich lilac and deeply divided extreme cold or
white (E) heat, bulbous
s. subsp. solida 8in × 8in 5–8 Red (E) As above Group 2, summer
‘George Baker’ dormant, bulbous,
RHS Award

Cosmos 153
COSMOS Asteraceae
Most of you are probably familiar with the common annual

C. bipinnatus. Cosmos atrosanguineus, commonly called the
chocolate cosmos because it smells good enough to eat, is the
only species grown as a perennial. This is a long-blooming
plant with flowers reminiscent of a single dahlia—a rich,
velvety, dark maroon with an even darker center, held on
reddish brown stems; they make a good cut flower. Watch
out, though: C. atrosanguineus is often lost to slugs, who can
devour this slow-emerging plant. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek kosmos (“beautiful”).

Common Name: Chocolate cosmos.
Origin: Mexico.
Preferred Conditions: Moisture-retentive, deep, well-
drained, fertile, moist soil. Winter wet and frost will kill
it. Doesn’t like to be crowded.
Light: Sun.
Management: Very late to emerge; mark it appropriately
so it won’t be dug up or planted over accidentally. Dead-
head flowers as needed. Some light brush staking (pea
sticks) is recommended. Tubers can be lifted and stored
like dahlias, or left in the ground and mulched. Tubers
must have one visible eye to survive. Cut down after
frost and mulch.
Propagation: Cuttings in fall, basal cuttings in spring;
overwinter in a greenhouse. If you divide this plant, you Cosmos atrosanguineus.
must leave each tuber with a visible pip.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, powdery mildew (especially if allowed to dry out).
Companions: Artemisia, aster, ‘Goldflame’ spiraea, dark-foliaged dahlias, second flush of
foliage on Geranium phaeum var. phaeum ‘Samobor’, late perennials like Helianthus salicifo-
lius, Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’.
Notes: Look for a new, large-flowered, pink perennial cosmos.
USDA
Zone
atrosanguineus 18–30in × 7–10 Dark maroon with Rich green, bushy Chocolate-scented
18in darker center, velvety, clumps, coarsely cut flowers, leaves do
on wiry stems (M–L) not appear until late
spring
06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G5Q No_6

114_159_TP.indd 153 1/10/07 2:10:13 PM
154 Crambe
Crambe maritima.
CRAMBE Brassicaceae
The crambes are handsome, bold, and dramatic architectural contributions to the garden. Crambe
cordifolia has very large, crinkled, heart-shaped leaves, some measuring up to two feet, forming
a mound of two to three feet. A huge fragrant cloud of small white flowers forms high above the
foliage. It’s an incredible sight when in flower, somewhat like a giant baby’s breath.
Crambe maritima has floppy mounds of fleshy, light blue-green foliage that is fringed or curled
at the edge. This plant smells just like rotting cabbage, but we really don’t notice this until we cut
back the mushy leaves. The young foliage is purple, turning glaucous with age. Sweetly scented
white flowers rise above the leaves in late spring. The seedheads are wonderful—angular, gray-
green stems with green pearls along them.
Both species are somewhat particular about their growing conditions and do best in full sun
and well-drained soil. Crambe maritima will grow in nearly pure sand or pea gravel, as it is a
seaside plant; C. cordifolia will need lots of water during the growing season. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek for “cabbage.”

Common Name: Sea kale, colewort.
Origin: Caucasus, Iran, Afghanistan, Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, fertile, well-drained, coarse soil that is moderately alkaline.
Tolerant of light shade and poor conditions but does not do well with roots in standing
water. High winds can damage C. cordifolia flower heads.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant out as young plants. In heavier soil, add grit or sharp sand to help with
drainage.
Management: These are deep-rooted plants and do not like to be moved. Crambe cordifolia
may need staking. You can cut back the flower heads as they go over, but they may produce
nice seedheads and remain presentable for a while. The bright green leaves continue to

Crocosmia 155
make an impressive effect even after the flowers have faded; cut off disfigured leaves. This
species needs time to reach flowering stage (two to three years in some cases). Crambe
maritima can be cut to the ground after flowering, or remove mushy-looking leaves and new
leaves will emerge. Cut to the ground in winter cleanup.
Propagation: Seed, root cuttings in winter; spring division.
Pests and Diseases: Cabbage caterpillars, snails. Slugs are a big problem, especially on
emerging growth.
Companions: For C. cordifolia, delphinium, baptisia, papaver, nepeta, lavatera, cardoon, phlox;
the large-scale cottage garden. For C. maritima, sedum, gray grasses, Parahebe perfoliata,
Salvia officinalis.
Notes: Crambe cordifolia can take some shade but may then take even longer to reach flow-
ering stage. Crambe maritima really must have sun to shine. In spring C. maritima is forced
(blanched) like rhubarb and eaten as a vegetable (sea kale). Look for C. filiformis, a charming
airy annual.
USDA
Zone
cordifolia 6–7ft × 4ft 6–9 Tiny, white, on pale Large (up to 2ft), heart- Very long-lived,
green stems, slightly shaped, on long stalks, RHS Award
scented (E–M) forming a loose, low
mound
maritima 2–3ft × 4ft 6–9 Creamy-white in Floppy mound of Blue sea kale, grows
domes above the glaucous, fleshy basal well in a xeriscape,
foliage, sweetly leaves RHS Award
scented (E)
CROCOSMIA Iridaceae
Crocosmias bloom from early summer until early fall, depending upon which cultivars you grow.
The larger forms add an element of erect exclamatory foliage; they are physically able to stand up
to some of the larger grasses, which they mimic in habit. Bronze-foliaged forms like C. ×crocos-
miiflora ‘Solfatare’ are complemented by such plants as Carex buchananii, Anthriscus sylvestris
‘Ravenswing’, or Dahlia ‘Yellow Hammer’. One of the latest forms to bloom is the beautiful C.
×crocosmiiflora ‘Emily McKenzie’. Em has very large flowers (for a crocosmia); they are flatter
than most and are iridescent orange, marked in the middle with deep burgundy. She looks nice
with phygelius and Achillea ‘Terracotta’. All are easy to grow. The larger-flowered forms are
tender, requiring protection in winter and replanting from time to time. They respond well to
heavy mulching. Hummingbirds adore them. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek krokos (“saffron”) and osme (“smell”); the dried flowers smell
like saffron.
Common Name: Montbretia.
Preferred Conditions: Thrives in most fertile, moisture-retentive, well-drained, humus-rich
soil but doesn’t like excessive clay, especially cultivars.
Light: Sun to part shade. Shade may contribute to a sprawling habit.

156 Crocosmia
Crocosmia
×crocosmiiflora
‘Queen Alexandra’.
Management: Divide, lift, and replant corms when they become congested. The top corms are
the most vigorous. Divide every three or more years for best blooming. Mulch in winter to
protect corms that have grown close to the surface. Cut back in fall when the leaves turn
brown.
Propagation: Division of corms in spring; seed as soon as ripe.
Pests and Diseases: Red spider mites in hot, dry weather; slugs; thrips (banded streaks and
brown tips).
Companions: Hemerocallis, agapanthus, berberis, Euphorbia griffithii, miscanthus, carex,
dahlia, phygelius, Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’, Anemanthele lessoniana.
Notes: Large-flowered forms tend to run about and seem to be less hardy. In the chart, the
symbol ∞ = infinite spread. We have listed only those cultivars that are most commonly
available; there are many more.
USDA
Zone
Bressingham 2–3ft × 3ft 6–9 Bicolor, orange and Swordlike, mid-green Vigorous, long
Beacon yellow, on purple arching spikes
stems (M–L)
×crocosmiiflora 2–4ft × ∞ 5–9 Orange-red, yellow As above Common montbretia,
inside with reddish vigorous, can be
brown throat (M–L) invasive
×c. ‘Citronella’ 2–3ft × 3ft 6–9 Soft lemon-yellow, Narrow, bright green Needs frequent
long-blooming (M–L) replanting, vigorous
×c. ‘Emberglow’ 2–3ft × 3ft+ 6–9 Red-orange with Mid-green, swordlike Similar in color to C.
red throat, upward- ‘Lucifer’, but smaller
arching (M) and blooms later

Crocosmia 157
USDA
Zone
×c. ‘Emily 2–3ft × 2½ft 7–9 Dark orange, dark As above Purple stems, good
McKenzie’ maroon markings, cut, does not clump
yellow and orange
banding, large (M–L)
×c. ‘George 2–2½ft × 6–9 Nodding, soft yellow As above Mixed up in the
Davison’ 2½ft (M–L) trade with C.
×crocosmiiflora
‘Citronella’
×c. ‘James Coey’ 2ft × 2ft 6–9 Dark orange-red, As above
paler inside, yellow
throat (M)
×c. ‘Lady Hamilton’ 3ft × 2½ft 7–9 Apricot-orange with As above Vigorous, good cut
magenta center, a bit
larger (M–L)
×c. ‘Norwich 2–2½ft × 6–9 Canary-yellow (M–L) As above Good clumper
Canary’ (syn. ‘Lady 2¼ft
Wilson’)
×c. ‘Plaisir’ 2–2½ft × 7–9 Salmon (M) As above
2½ft
×c. ‘Queen 2ft × 2ft 6–9 Orange outside, As above
Alexandra’ flushed maroon on
the tube, light orange
inside with maroon
blotches (M)
×c. ‘Solfatare’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 7–9 Apricot-yellow Smoky bronze tinted Smaller clumps, RHS
(M–L) green, swordlike Award
×c. ‘Star of the East’ 2½–3ft × 8–9 Soft apricot-yellow, Mid-green, swordlike Spreads slowly,
2½ft paler orange throat, vigorous, seems to
large (M–L) overwinter best in
lighter soil, doesn’t
clump, RHS Award
×c. ‘Venus’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 6–9 Peach-yellow with As above
maroon markings at
throat (M–L)
‘Jenny Bloom’ 2–2½ft × 6–9 Intense yellow (M) As above, a bit narrower Open clumps,
2½ft+ tolerant of most
weather conditions
‘Jupiter’ 2½–3ft × 3ft 6–9 Pale orange, yellow Bronze-green, narrower
highlights, out-facing
(M–L)
‘Lucifer’ 2–4ft × 4ft+ 5–9 Deep vivid red, up- Broad, swordlike, May need support,
facing (M) pleated, mid-green vigorous, good
seedheads, very large
corms
masoniorum 2–4ft × ∞ 7–9 Reddish orange to Broad, pleated, dark Good cut, invasive,
bright yellow-orange, green coarse, very robust
up-facing (M)
pottsii 2ft × 2ft 8–9 Orange with yellow Shorter, broader, green Erect, vigorous,
throat M) tender, large corms

158 Cryptotaenia
Cryptotaenia japonica
f. atropurpurea.
CRYPTOTAENIA Apiaceae
We deal only with the purple (or bronze) leaf form here, which is very useful as a contrast color
in a border. A broad, toothed, and three-lobed leaf is surmounted by thin, fingerlike stems and
clusters of small white flowers. This is one of the last seeds to ripen in summer and can seed
about some. It seems not to mind competition from other plants. Young spring leaves are edible
and used as a leafy vegetable. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Latin cryptos (“hidden”) and taenia (“bands,” “ribbons”), reference
obscure.
Common Name: Japanese honewort, Japanese parsley.
Origin: Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Thrives in most types of soil.
Management: This plant runs a bit but is not considered a problem to control.
Propagation: Sow seed when ripe; spreads by short runners to make good-sized clumps.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids; plants can be grazed on in early spring by slugs, and in summer
may get a few spittlebugs.
Companions: Crocosmia ×crocosmiiflora ‘Solfatare’, Erysimum ‘Bowles’ Mauve’, E. ‘Julian
Orchard’, E. ‘Wenlock Beauty’, Hemerocallis ‘Golden Chimes’, H. ‘Corky’, Sedum telephium
‘Mohrchen’, S. t. subsp. ruprechtii, Plantago major ‘Rubrifolia’, bronze-leaved grasses, carex,
Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’.
USDA
Zone
japonica f. 30in × 18in 6–8 Small, white, like Bronzy, dark purplish, Tight and sturdy
atropurpurea (syn. airy baby’s breath (L) 3-lobed mounds, will seed
‘Atropurpurea’) about

Cymbalaria 159
Cymbalaria muralis.
CYMBALARIA Scrophulariaceae
Cymbalaria muralis (Kenilworth ivy) is a semi-evergreen perennial in the Pacific Northwest,

often found in older gardens or the ubiquitous, irregular “basalt rockery” of Seattle. It will come
and go, depending on the harshness of the winter, but always manages to return for us, if only
from a few seedlings. The more ornamental dwarf forms of cymbalaria are charming when
covered with their small, snapdragonlike flowers but must be kept free of slugs, or they’ll disap-
pear quickly. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek kymbalon (“cymbal”), referring to the shape of the leaves.
Common Name: Kenilworth ivy, ivy-leaved toadflax.
Origin: Europe, northern Italy, northern Adriatic.
Preferred Conditions: Average, moisture-retentive, well-drained soils.
Light: Part shade.
Management: No fall cleanup required; save this work for spring. It is best to leave the entire
plant alone so some small piece survives the winter.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed and stem cuttings in summer.
Companions: Erigeron karvinskianus, rock crevices, stonewalls. This is a niche plant, and it
goes where it wishes.
USDA
Zone
aequitriloba 2in × 24in 3–10 Violet, Green, small, ivylike, Groundcover
snapdragonlike (M) 3-lobed
a. ‘Alba’ 2in × 12in 3–10 White (M) Pale green, ivylike, Groundcover
3-lobed
muralis 1ft × 3ft 3–10 Small, violet with a Green, ivylike Kenilworth ivy, can
yellow-speckled lip, grow very long stems
dark purple stems in one season
(M–L)
m. ‘Nana Alba’ 3in or less × 3–10 White with yellow Apple-green, ivylike Compact, short-lived
6in throat (M–L)

114_159_TP.indd 159 1/10/07 3:47:13 PM
160 Cynara
Cynara cardunculus.
CYNARA Asteraceae
Both the cardoon (C. cardunculus) and the globe artichoke (C. cardunculus Scolymus Group)
can be grown for their ornamental foliage. Cardoon is bolder, with more vertical foliage, and is
grayer in appearance than the edible artichoke cultivars. Both will be completely herbaceous in
a hard winter, even to the point of death. Both also need to be in full sun and well watered in the
summer. We let cardoons flower, as they are a beautiful blue-violet and attract a lot of bees.
The best results with cynara for us are achieved by leaving the plants alone until spring, with
a nice mulch of leaves, hay, or straw and a surrounding of manure (not over the crown). All parts
of the plant are very ornamental; leaves and flowers can be cut for arrangements, and the flower
heads can also be dried. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek kyon (“dog”); the spines on the involucre (ring of bracts
around the flower) resemble a dog’s teeth.
Common Name: Cardoon, globe artichoke.
Origin: Southwestern Europe, Mediterranean.
USDA
Zone
cardunculus 6–8ft × 4–5ft 6–10 Violet-blue or white Silvery-gray, pointed, Cardoon, RHS
thistlelike heads deeply divided, with Award
bursting from a strong spines
prickly bud (M–L)
c. Scolymus Group 5–6ft × 4–5ft 6–10 Larger flower heads, Gray-green, spineless Globe artichoke,
purplish blue, from more vigorous,
buds 3–6in wide (M) grown mainly as a
vegetable
06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G4D 12

Darmera 161
Preferred Conditions: Tolerant of most garden soils but thrives in one that is deep, humus-
rich, and well-drained. Takes some drought but will be smaller. Plants will die out in a wet
cold winter.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Divide and plant up basal sprouts after flowering. Plant out seedlings in late April.
Management: Resents disturbance of deep roots. For best foliage effects, remove flowering
stems as they emerge. Apply regular topdressing of fertilizer in spring and summer. Protect
rootstock with mulch in colder temperatures. Remove the dead leaves and litter as new
growth starts, and bait for slugs! Stems may need support. Keep leaves and flower stems on
in winter unless unsightly.
Propagation: Seed or division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, cutworms, caterpillars. Watch for slugs and snails in spring.
Companions: Rhubarb, large-scale grasses, Artemisia ‘Huntington’; most effective as a spec-
imen plant.
Notes: The early spring leaf stems are the “vegetable” part of C. cardunculus and are usually
blanched like celery.
DARMERA Saxifragaceae
This northwest California and Oregon native had to go to Europe and return for us to have it
available in numbers. The large leaves are like a small version of Petasites japonicus, with more
disease and slug resistance. Giant rhizomes, right at the soil surface, creep slowly outward
and can even be a bright green. In spring, flowers appear on strong, tall (eighteen-inch-plus)
stems; flowers are pink and starlike, an obvious characteristic of their membership in the
saxifrage family.
Darmera peltata
160-211_TP.indd 161
162 Delosperma
Darmeras will grow in very wet soil, but not standing water, and are wonderful bold plants
for the garden that doesn’t have room for a gunnera. They can be aggressive, but divisions with a
sharp poaching shovel and an axe make them easy to control. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: In honor of nineteenth-century horticulturist Karl Darmer of Berlin.

Common Name: Umbrella plant, Indian rhubarb.
Origin: Northwestern California to Oregon.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, cool, organic-rich, boggy conditions in heavy soil.
Light: Shade. Tolerates sun if kept moist.
Management: Easy maintenance. Likes an annual mulch of organic material. Protect from late
frosts. Woody creeping rhizomes are aggressive, leading one to shovel prune. The leaves are
shed naturally in the fall.
Propagation: Division in early spring or fall; dig out chunks of rhizomes and replant; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs are a problem.
Companions: Grasses, Cimicifuga racemosa, Primula japonica, polygonatum, large ferns; good
for erosion control on muddy banks.
Notes: Rhizomes can become tightly packed together; lift and divide, replanting the largest and
healthiest pieces. Darmera peltata ‘Nana’ may merely be a young plant not up to size yet.
USDA
Zone
peltata 2–4ft × 4ft+ 5–9 Pink aging to white Dark green, coarsely Hairy, reddish stems,
(E–M) toothed, peltate, veined, RHS Award
copper-red fall colors,
1–2ft across
p. ‘Nana’ 1–2½ft × 3ft+ 5–9 As above Dark green, coarsely Dwarf form
toothed, peltate, veined,
8–10in across
DELOSPERMA Aizoaceae
The hardy ice plants need full sun and benefit from a mulch of crushed rock or pea gravel, which
helps prevent crown rot. Like other succulents, they can be brought through a cold winter with
a layer of evergreen branches (fir or pine; never use hemlock, as it sheds early on) over them for
a bit of insulation; when you use this method, be sure to remove the branches before the needles
fall off. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek delos (“evident”) and sperma (“seed”); the seeds are exposed
in an open capsule.
Common Name: Ice plant.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, average soil, but not too fertile. Drought tolerant.
Light: Sun.
Management: Intolerant of wet soil, so stop watering in mid-fall to prepare for winter. Leaves
are easily damaged by winter wet or hail. A light covering of conifer branches will help them
survive to Zone 5. Not a heavy cover, as they don’t want to be “in the dark.” Deadhead as
needed.
Perennials Cynara-E_TP.indd 162 12/7/06 6:14:44 PM

Delosperma 163
Delosperma cooperi.
Propagation: Cuttings in spring or summer, or seed.

Pests and Diseases: Crown rot, mealy bugs. Watch for aphids; if they appear, remove them as
soon as possible.
Companions: Smaller sedums, sempervivum, jovibarba, Phlox subulata; the edge of the dry
border.
Notes: Plants do very well for us as long as they have sharp drainage for the winter.
USDA
Zone
cooperi 3–4in × 12in 5–10 Purple-carmine with Mid-green turning Semi-evergreen,
white center (M–L) red in fall, long, thin, vigorous spreader
succulent
floribundum 4in × 12in 5–10 Bright pink with Long, thin, succulent, Evergreen, clumping
‘Starburst’ white center, green
shimmering
iridescent petals
(M–L)
nubigenum 1–3in × 18in 5–10 Bright yellow (E–M) Small, fleshy, green, More tolerant of
turning reddish in fall wet soils and cold,
and winter creeping mat-
forming, will trail
over a pot’s edge

164 Delphinium
DELPHINIUM Ranunculaceae
Delphiniums are the classic cottage garden plant, grown for

their tall, stately spires of densely clustered flowers. True
blue was the traditional and most common color, but the
range has broadened to include indigo-blue, pale blue, pink,
purple, white, and red, with a new black one soon to hit
the market. Popular also are the semi-double and double
flowers, some multicolored.
Delphiniums have been much hybridized; the best
known of the several resulting groups are the Pacific
Hybrids named for characters from King Arthur’s court.
Most of these grow to a height of four to six feet. There
are also dwarf types, one to three feet high, which are very
versatile growing among lower perennials.
As Queen of the Border, the delphinium is a high-main-
tenance perennial, demanding constant attention: disease
control, slug baiting, pinching, early staking, tweaking,
poking, feeding, and praying. Nevertheless, its presence is
such that many of us continue to value it in our gardens,
even though we may treat it as an annual or short-lived
perennial. All parts of this plant are poisonous. It makes a
good cut flower, if briefly. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek delphis (“dolphin”),

referring to the shape of the flowers.
Common Name: Larkspur.
Origin: North America, Europe, Siberia, China, Caucasus.
Delphinium ‘Alice Artindale’. Preferred Conditions: Delphiniums are lime lovers,
requiring well-drained, fertile, humus-rich soil. Keep
them evenly moist especially during the growth time. Shelter the taller ones from strong
winds.
Light: Sun to part shade. The taller ones are most sensitive to high heat over an extended
period.
Planting: Don’t bury the crown; it may rot. Fall is not a good time to divide, as plants are
usually dormant.
Management: High maintenance. These are heavy feeders, apply a balanced fertilizer every
two to three weeks for show flowers. Bait for slugs and snails before the new growth
appears, or they will graze off the new growth at ground level and set your plants back
considerably. Thin new shoots when they reach three inches in length; leave a minimum
of two or three shoots on young plants and five to seven strong shoots on well-established
ones. Most need secure staking. Cut back after flowering to small flowering side shoots, and
they may flower again after a short rest period. For a rebloom in late summer, cut back to
base all the stems that have flowered.
Propagation: Fresh seed (mainly for the Belladonna Group and D. elatum), basal cuttings in
spring; division for cultivars.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, powdery mildew, crown and root rot, botrytis, leaf miners,
caterpillars, spider mites, stem borers, leaf spot, and rust—the hypochondriac of the peren-
nial border.
160-211_TP.indd 164 1/10/07 3:50:22 PM

Delphinium 165
Delphiniums in the border, with roses, Achillea ‘Taygetea’, Eryngium giganteum, and clouds of Clematis recta
‘Purpurea’ and euphorbia.
Companions: Campanula, geranium, lilac, shrub roses, lupinus, lunaria, taller baptisias, thalic-
trum, aquilegia; the back of the border.
Notes: The newer cultivars D. elatum ‘New Heights’ and D. e. ‘New Millennium’ are stronger
and have more closely spaced flowers. Look for more new cultivars to appear.
USDA
Zone
‘Alice Artindale’ 3½–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Double blue and Large, green, stiff and A very old cultivar
mauve, narrow spikes uniform
(M)
Astolat Group 4–8ft × 2ft 3–8 Semi-double, shades Light green Needs support
(Pacific Hybrids) of lilac and pink with
darker eye (E)
160-211_TP.indd 165 1/11/07 2:43:02 PM

166 Delphinium
USDA
Zone
Belladonna Group 3–4ft × 1½ft 3–8 Single light blue to Mid-green, smaller, Bushy, seldom
pink and white on more cut needs support, likes
wiry stems, open summer heat
inflorescence (M–L)
B. ‘Casa Blanca’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 3–8 Pure white, open As above Well-branched
×bellemosum 3–4ft × 1½ft 3–8 Deep gentian-blue, Light to mid-green, Seldom needs
single with spurs, finely lobed staking
large (M–L)
Black Knight 4–6ft × 2ft 3–8 Dark violet-blue with Light green Darkest of the
Group (Pacific black eye, semi- Pacific Hybrids
Hybrids) double (M)
Blue Bird Group 4–6ft × 2ft 3–8 Shades of mid-blue As above
(Pacific Hybrids) with white eye,
double (M)
Blue Fountains 2½–3ft × 3–8 Single, shades of blue Green, finely divided Compact
Group 1½ft and white (M)
(Belladonna)
‘Blue Jay’ (Pacific 4–5ft × 2ft 3–8 Semi-double, mid- Light green
Hybrids) blue with dark eye
(M)
‘Blue Mirror’ 1–2ft × 2ft 3–8 Bright gentian-blue, Deep green, finely cut Treat as a biennial
spurless, single, open
cardinale 2–4ft × 1½ft 7–9 Single red with Green, appears in Scarlet larkspur,
yellowish inner autumn, large, finely California native,
petals, spurs (E–M) divided keep dry in the
summer, short-lived
Connecticut 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Shades of blue (E–L) Light green, smaller Bushy, free-
Yankees Group branching, no
staking needed,
tolerant of heat
elatum 4–7ft × 1ft 3–8 Single to semi- A darker mid-green, Very tall and narrow,
double, blue to dull smaller, dark stems flowers widely
purple, spurs, white spaced
eye (E–M)
e. ‘New Heights’ 6–8ft × 1½ft 3–8 White, cream, pink, Mid-green Vigorous, more
lavender, maroon tolerant of heat and
(E–L) humidity, needs no
staking
e. ‘New 3½–4ft × 3–8 Blue, violet, As above Dwarf
Millennium’ 1½ft turquoise, pink,
mauve, white (E–L)
Galahad Group 4–6ft × 1½ft 3–8 Semi-double, pure Light green A bit weak
(Pacific Hybrids) white with white eye
grandiflorum (syn. 1–2ft × 1½ft 3–8 Single, gentian- Dark green, palmate, Often grown
chinense) blue, spurs and free-branching as an annual,
lower petals often long-blooming
red-violet, open
inflorescence (M)

Dianthus 167
USDA
Zone
g. ‘Blauer Zwerg’ 10–16in × 12in 2–9 Gentian-blue, large, Mid-green Bushy dwarf, may
(syn. ‘Blue Dwarf’, inflorescence (M–L) self-sow, grown as
‘Blue Elf’) an annual
g. ‘Blue Butterfly’ 10–18in × 12in 3–9 Bright blue, single, Deep green, finely cut Treat as a biennial
open inflorescence or annual
(M–L)
Guinevere Group 4–5ft × 1½ft 3–8 Light rosy-lavender- Light green Let’s hope breeding
(Pacific Hybrids) pink with white eye, gives us a good pink
semi-double (M–L)
King Arthur Group 4–5ft × 2ft 3–8 Royal violet with Mid-green
(Pacific Hybrids) white eye, double
(E–M)
Magic Fountains 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–8 Range of blue, Green, deeply lobed Dwarf, open
Series lavender, rose, and inflorescence
white with or without
eye, double, large
(M–L)
nudicaule 1–2ft × 1ft 6–9 Soft orange-red, long Green, rounded, lobed Goes mostly
spurs, single, red to dormant after
yellow throat (M) flowering, keep dry
in summer, often
grown as an annual,
California native
Summer Skies 4–5ft × 2ft 3–8 Light sky-blue tones Light green One of the most
Group (Pacific with white eye, semi- popular colors
Hybrids) double (E–M)
DIANTHUS Caryophyllaceae
If you can provide an environment with sharp drainage, sandy soil, full sun, and somewhat alka-
line soil, by all means try the larger-flowered, taller, grayer forms of dianthus—most folks are
drawn to these big ones, which do not like acidic soil or cold, wet winters. These taller forms
may need support and look floppy to sloppy, since it is hard to stake them discreetly; you might
try growing them in containers. Otherwise, grow the lovely, subtle small forms. Best used as
short-lived perennials allowed to flop and crawl about at the edge of a border or over a wall.
~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek di (“two”; also the name for Zeus or Jove) and anthos
(“flower”).
Common Name: Carnation, pink.
Origin: Europe, Asia, Great Britain.
Preferred Conditions: Slightly alkaline but will do fine in neutral or mildly acidic. Well-
drained, moisture-retentive, sandy or gritty soil. Drought tolerant. Does not like heavy soil,
especially in winter wet. Keep away from soggy soil, rabbits, and drying wind especially in
the spring.
Light: Sun.

168 Dianthus
Dianthus gratianopoli-
tanus ‘Firewitch’.
Management: Likes a dressing of bonemeal in early spring. Add limestone to raise the alka-
linity. Deadhead for neatness and to keep the modern cultivars blooming through summer
and into fall. Some may need support. Propagate every two or three years to replace losses.
Propagation: Seed, stem cuttings in the summer after blooming. Stems lie on the ground and
can be layered to form roots for division.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, crown root, rust, fungal diseases, squirrels, rabbits, deer,
cutworms, aphids, spider mites. Watch for slugs hiding under the foliage.
Companions: Stachys byzantina, roses, Erigeron karvinskianus, diascia, and other over-the-wall
floppers.
Notes: Most dianthus will spread more than we list over time, but the centers may go bare.
The best dianthus forms for the Northwest are smaller in habit, usually green (sometimes
gray-foliaged), and smaller flowered.
USDA
Zone
‘Allspice’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Single, raspberry- Blue-green, in low dense Border pink, prolific
red fading to purple, mats, evergreen bloomer
white margins,
fringed, fragrant
(E–L)
alpinus 3–8in × 8in 3–8 Single, deep pink to Dark green, evergreen Alpine pink,
crimson with darker short-lived
spots, large, no
fragrance (E–L)
‘Aqua’ 10–12in × 12in 3–9 Double white, frilly, Bluish green, dense, Border pink
clove-scented (E–M) blue-gray stems,
evergreen
160-211_TP.indd 168
Dianthus 169
USDA
Zone
‘Bath’s Pink’ 6–12in × 12in 3–9 Single, soft pink with Silvery blue-green, Cheddar pink, rock
darker eye, clove- narrow, grassy, garden plant, doesn’t
scented (E–M) evergreen rebloom
‘Bat’s Double Red’ 7–12in × 12in 4–8 Semi-double, red- Blue-green, grassy, Border pink, repeats
wine with darker eye, evergreen in autumn, vigorous
fringed, scented (M)
‘Bourbon’ 3in × 12in 2–9 Single, dark pink Mid-green, grassy tufts, Compact
(E–M) evergreen
‘Candy Dish’ 10–12in × 12in 4–8 Double, frilly pink Bluish green, evergreen As above
with red streaks
(E–M)
caryophyllus 12in × 12in 7–10 Double and semi- Grayish to blue-green, Wild carnation, its
double, pink, scented evergreen cultivars are grown
(M–L) for the cut flower
trade, short-lived
‘Dad’s Favourite’ 12–18in × 12in 4–8 Semi-double white Gray-green, grassy, Border pink, very old
with maroon evergreen cultivar
markings and
maroon-purple
center (M)
‘Danielle Marie’ 10–12in × 12in 4–10 Double, salmon- Gray-green, evergreen Modern border pink
orange to coral-red,
toothed, fragrant (M)
deltoides 8in × 18in+ 3–9 Single, starry, colors Mid to dark green, Maiden pink, self-
range from purple grasslike, broad-leafed, sows, long-blooming,
through reds and evergreen mat-forming, RHS
pinks to white with Award
darker eye, no scent
(M)
d. ‘Albus’ 6–8in × 18in+ 2–9 Single, white with Pale green, evergreen Mat-forming,
pink eye (M) spreading, self-sows
d. ‘Arctic Fire’ 6–8in × 18in+ 3–9 Single, white with Dense, dark green, Spreading, mat-
red eye, fringed, evergreen forming, cut back
fragrant (M) after first bloom
d. ‘Brilliant’ 6–12in × 18in+ 3–9 Single, bright dark Deep green, evergreen Spreading,
red (M) mat-forming
d. ‘Flashing Light’ 6–8in × 18in+ 2–9 Single, deep ruby-red Dark bronzy-green, Mat-forming
(M) evergreen
d. ‘Zing Rose’ 6–8in × 18in+ 3–9 Single, bright rose- Green, dense, evergreen Mat-forming, will
red with darker ring repeat if cut back
around eye, fragrant after first bloom
(M)
‘Doris’ 10in × 12in 3–10 Semi-double, bright Gray-green, evergreen Modern pink,
salmon-pink with red vigorous, long-lived,
patch, fragrant (M) RHS Award
‘Essex Witch’ 5–8in × 12in+ 4–9 Semi-double, rose- Gray, evergreen Rock garden pink,
pink with darker one of the best, not
zones, fringed, tolerant of high
fragrant (E–L) temperatures

170 Dianthus
USDA
Zone
‘Frosty Fire’ 4–8in × 8in 3–9 Semi-double, deep Bluish green, evergreen Long-blooming
ruby-red, fragrant
(E–M)
gratianopolitanus 6–12in × 12in 3–9 Single, rose-pink, red, Glaucous, grassy, Cheddar pink, mat-
or white, toothed, evergreen forming, long-lived,
fragrant (E–L) RHS Award
g. ‘Dottie’ 4–5in × 10in 3–8 Single, frilled white Mid-green, evergreen Rock garden pink,
with maroon eye dwarf, compact
(E–M)
g. ‘Firewitch’ 6in × 10in 3–8 Single, bright Glaucous, grassy, Rock garden pink,
carmine-magenta, evergreen spreading
fragrant (E–M)
g. ‘Tiny Rubies’ 3in × 10in+ 3–9 Double, rose-pink, Grayish green, grassy, Rock garden pink,
tiny, fragrant (E–M) evergreen long-blooming
‘Helen’ 10–12in × 12in 4–8 Double, salmon-pink Blue-green, evergreen Modern pink, a very
(M–L) good cultivar
‘Her Majesty’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Double white, Gray, dense, evergreen Antique border pink
fringed (M)
‘Hoffman’s Red’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Single, bright red Green, evergreen Rock garden pink
(E–L)
‘Horatio’ 6–8in × 10in 4–9 Semi-double, bright Blue-green, evergreen Rock garden pink, a
rose-pink, maroon very good cultivar
eye, fragrant (E–L)
‘Inchmery’ 10–12in × 12in 4–9 Double, pale pink, Silvery blue-green, Antique border
fringed, fragrant (M) evergreen pink, mat-forming,
vigorous
‘ItSaul White’ 8–12in × 12in+ 3–8 Frilly, pure white, As above Modern border pink
fragrant (E–M)
knappii 12–18in × 8in 3–9 Single, pale yellow, Gray-green, grassy, lax Short-lived, self-
toothed, no scent stems, semi-evergreen sows, clumps
(E–M)
‘Laced Hero’ 10–12in × 12in 3–8 Double white, laced Blue-gray, evergreen Modern border pink,
with dark reddish long-blooming
purple, fragrant
(E–L)
‘Little Jock’ 6in × 6in 5–9 Semi-double, pink Silvery-blue, compact Rock garden pink
with maroon eye, cushions, evergreen
fringed, fragrant (M)
‘Mrs. Sinkins’ 6–12in × 12in 5–9 Double white, Blue-green, evergreen Antique pink, shaggy
fringed, light green and untidy
eye, very fragrant (M)
‘Musgrave’s Pink’ 10–12in × 12in 5–9 Single, white with Mid-green, evergreen Antique pink, good
(syn. ‘Charles green eye, fragrant cut
Musgrave’) (M–L)
‘Oakington’ (syn. 6–8in × 12in 5–9 Double, deep rose, Bluish green, evergreen
‘Oakington Rose’) fringed, fragrant (M)
‘Paisley Gem’ 12in × 12in 5–9 Double, maroon with Evergreen
white splashes and
edges, fragrant (M)

Diascia 171
USDA
Zone
‘Pheasant’s Eye’ 12–15in × 12in 4–8 Semi-double white As above Antique pink
with deep maroon
center, fringed,
fragrant (M)
plumarius 10–18in × 4–10 Single, pink, fringed, Glaucous, grassy, veined, Cottage pink,
12in+ fragrant (E–M) evergreen long-blooming,
mat-forming
‘Rose de Mai’ 12–18in × 4–9 Double, mauve-pink Blue-gray, evergreen Antique border pink,
18in+ with slightly darker long-blooming
zones, fragrant
(M–L)
‘Snowfire’ 15–18in × 18in 5–9 Fringed, white with Evergreen Modern pink,
red eye (M) 1978 All-America
Selection
‘Sops-in-Wine’ 8in × 12in 5–9 Double, velvety As above Old-fashioned pink
wine-red with white
spot on each petal,
fragrant (M)
‘Spotty’ 6–8in × 8in+ 3–9 Single, rose-red, Gray-green, evergreen Rock garden pink
edged and spotted
silvery-white,
fragrant (E–M)
superbus 12–24in × 12in 3–9 Single, pale lilac, Mid-green, grassy, Fringed pink, often
pink, or white, evergreen treated as a biennial,
fringed, large, very floriferous
fragrant (M–L)
‘Waithman’s 6–8in × 8in 4–8 Single, raspberry-red Evergreen Rock garden pink
Beauty’ splashed pink with 2
irregular white eyes,
fragrant (M)
‘War Bonnet’ 6–10in × 12in 4–9 Double, deep Green, grassy, evergreen Border carnation
purplish red, white
edges, fragrant (M)
DIASCIA Scrophulariaceae
The sweet little twinspurs have just that on the back of every flower. Many cultivars are avail-
able, some taller, and some larger flowered, and some more perennial. All look quite similar to
each other. Low-growing, they look best in the foreground or at the edges of planting areas, or as
a container plant spilling over the sides of a pot. Once they begin to bloom in summer they will
bloom until frost if you shear them over after the first flush of flowers. These short-lived perennials
perform so well and for so long that when they die they should just be replaced. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek di (“two”) and askos (“sac”), referring to the two spurs on the
flower.
Common Name: Twinspur.

172 Diascia
Diascia ‘Emma’.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, well-drained, rich loam. Tolerant of average garden soil as long
as they don’t dry out and are not crowded out by other plants.
Management: Cut back or shear flower stems into foliage after the first flush of bloom, as they
look unkempt and rangy; they will rebloom in several weeks. Take cuttings of the more
tender cultivars in case they don’t survive the winter. Usually need to be replaced after two
or three years; better managed as an annual.
Propagation: Tip cuttings in spring and summer; often lost when divided.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, spider mites if grown too dry or with poor air circulation. Watch for
slugs in early spring.
Companions: Silver-foliaged plants such as artemisia (less aggressive forms), lavender and
blue campanulas, Viola cornuta and other violas, gaura, geranium. Try them with Scabiosa
‘Butterfly Blue’ for all-summer flowers.
USDA
Zone
barberae 12in × 18in 8–11 Rose-pink, large, on Green with bluish cast More tender than
erect stems (E–L) most
b. ‘Blackthorn 12in × 18in 8–10 Large, apricot-pink Pale green, small, in a Good weaver, RHS
Apricot’ with broad lip and loose mat Award
long spurs (M)
b. ‘Ruby Field’ 8in × 10in 7–9 Deep pink with bluish As above Rock garden plant,
tint (E–M) RHS Award
‘Emma’ 18in × 18in 7–9 Rich deep rose on tall Shiny olive-green to Vigorous, can
stems (M–L) deep green take a wide range
of conditions,
long-lived
fetcaniensis 18in × 18in 7–9 Salmon-pink, more Lush dark green, Good weaver,
upright (E–L) broadly ovate and long-lived
toothed

Dicentra 173
USDA
Zone
integerrima 18–20in × 7–9 Rose-pink, small, Gray-green, narrow, Runs underground,
18in sharply curved spurs pointed slightly, toothed tolerates drier
(M–L) at base conditions, RHS
Award
i. ‘Blush’ 12–24in × 7–9 Pale pink to white Gray-green, small, Good weaver
18in (M–L) narrow
‘Lady Valerie’ 10–12in × 7–9 Pale apricot-pink Gray-green, arrow- Bushy habit, refined
12in (M–L) shaped, serrated and delicate, RHS
Award
‘Lilac Mist’ 8–12in × 12in 7–9 Pale lavender-pink Green, large, toothed Spreading, RHS
with darker center, Award
sharply curved spurs
(M)
rigescens 18in+ × 18in+ 7–9 Clear deep pink Gray-green, coarsely Robust and vigorous,
(M–L) toothed RHS Award
‘Salmon Supreme’ 8–12in × 12in 7–9 Salmon fading with Light green, small, Long-blooming
(syn. ‘Hector age (M–L) trailing
Harrison’)
vigilis 12in × 24in 7–9 Delicate clear pink Bright green, ovate RHS Award
(M–L)
DICENTRA Papaveraceae
I have never met a dicentra I didn’t like. Some are more appealing than others, but all are winners.
The best have foliage that is an asset when the plant is not blooming; this is particularly true of
Dicentra ‘Adrian
Bloom’.

174 Dicentra
D. formosa and D. eximia. Their varying shades of gray-green to blue-gray are perfect comple-
ments to many other broader-leaved woodland plants. Generally, formosa hybrids run, and
eximia hybrids are more clumping.
Dicentra spectabilis is the queen of the tribe, earliest to bloom and of a much larger stature.
Many of us have had our hearts melted by the beautiful, delicate gray-green leaves and larger
pink and white hearts of this species. The white-flowered forms are lovely in low light. Person-
ally, I like D. ‘Stuart Boothman’ best for its extremely finely dissected pewter-colored leaves and
rosy hearts; it and other more dwarf forms bloom on through midsummer, while D. spectabilis
may go dormant about that time. The only solution is to grow them all! ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek di (“two”) and kentron (“spur”).

Common Name: Bleeding heart, Dutchman’s breeches (D. cucullaria).
Origin: North America, Japan, China.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, moisture-retentive, free-draining soil. Don’t allow
them to get too dry during the summer months.
Management: Keep soil moist and cool in order to have the foliage last longer, particularly the
taller ones. Otherwise the foliage will yellow and should be cut back. Many of the smaller
forms are rhizomatous and spread, occasionally becoming invasive. Not the easiest plant to
divide—a knife is usually needed. Split clump in such a way as to produce pieces that have
both a bud (eye) and roots. Dicentra spectabilis will survive many years without division;
D. s. ‘Alba’ may seed about on its own (this is a good thing).
Propagation: Root cuttings in spring; division in spring (carefully); seed.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, slugs, snails.
Companions: Narcissus, hosta, asarum, epimedium, astilbe, brunnera, ferns, pulmonaria,
primula, helleborus, tiarella; the woodland garden.
Notes: Turn the flower (heart) of D. spectabilis upside-down, open the petals, and you will see,
sitting, the little white shape that suggests the other common name, lady in the bath. Dicen-
tras, if left to their own devices, will spread further than we show, especially the rhizoma-
tous ones, but rarely swamp other perennials.
USDA
Zone
‘Adrian Bloom’ 10–18in × 3–8 Raspberry-red (E–M) Dark gray-green, May rebloom,
(formosa hybrid) 12–24in+ fernlike vigorous,
rhizomatous
‘Bacchanal’ 12–18in × 6–9 Very dark wine-red Blue-green, fernlike Long-blooming,
18in+ (M) rhizomatous, RHS
Award
‘Bountiful’ (formosa 12in × 24in+ 6–9 Purplish red (M) Blue-green, cut leaf, red- May rebloom,
hybrid) tinged stems rhizomatous
eximia 12–18in × 18in 3–9 Deep rosy-pink, Pale gray-green, dense Fringed bleeding
heart-shaped (E–M) mounds, fernlike heart, clumps,
may rebloom,
rhizomatous
e. ‘Snowdrift’ (syn. 12–15in × 3–9 White (E–L) Pale gray-green, fernlike Rhizomatous,
‘Alba’) 12–18in clumps
formosa 12–18in × 3–9 Rose-pink, heart- Pewter-gray, tinged with Western bleeding
24in shaped (E–M) maroon, fernlike heart, self-sows,
rhizomatous

Dictamnus 175
USDA
Zone
f. ‘Aurora’ 12in × 24in 3–9 White (E–L) Grayish blue Vigorous,
rhizomatous
f. ‘Margery Fish’ 12–18in × 3–9 Pure white (E–L) Lacy blue As above
24in
f. ‘Tuolumne Rose’ 12in × 24in 3–9 Large, rose-pink Large, bright blue-green
(E–M)
‘Langtrees’ 12in × 24in 3–9 Creamy-white, pink- Glaucous Rhizomatous but not
(formosa hybrid) tinged (E–L) invasive, RHS Award
‘Luxuriant’ 12–18in × 3–9 Dark pink, long- Blue-green, fernlike Foliage persists
(formosa hybrid) 24in blooming (E–M) throughout
summer, good cut,
rhizomatous, RHS
Award
scandens 6–12ft × 2ft 7–9 Dangling, narrow Mid-green, divided Climbing, vining,
yellow lockets, aging forms a big woody
to amber (M–L) root
‘Snowflakes’ 12in × 18in 3–8 White (E–M) Lacy, light green Clumps
(eximia hybrid)
spectabilis 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Rose-red with white Gray-green, divided, go Common bleeding
tip, pink in bud, dormant in summer heart, good cut,
heart-shaped (E–M) long-lived
s. ‘Alba’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Creamy-white (E–M) Light green, with almost Less vigorous, good
transparent green stems cut, RHS Award
s. ‘Gold Heart’ 24–36in × 3–9 Pink, heart-shaped Brilliant gold Burns in full sun, a
18in (E–M) bit weak, RHS Award
‘Stuart Boothman’ 12in × 18in+ 3–9 Light pinkish red Glaucous, very narrowly Slowly spreading,
(formosa hybrid) (E–M) divided self-sows,
rhizomatous, RHS
Award
‘Zestful’ (formosa 12in × 24in 3–9 Deep rose (E–M) Fernlike, pale grayish Clumping,
hybrid) green rhizomatous
DICTAMNUS Rutaceae
The gas plant! Slow to establish and late to emerge in the spring, this showy, handsome plant
requires little care once it takes hold and in fact is extremely long-lived, so choose its location
carefully. Plants have shiny, erect, pinnate foliage topped by spikes of white or pink flowers in
summer. Their seedpods are good in the garden and in dried floral arrangements. Aromatic oil
gives the plants a strong citrus fragrance; this volatilized oil can be lit with a match on warm, still
summer evenings. Don’t expect much—it’s a brief flash and does not affect the plant (unless you
hold the match too close). Entertain your friends! ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the herb Origanum dictamnus (dittany of Crete).

Common Name: Gas plant.
Origin: Asia, southern Europe.

176 Dictamnus
Dictamnus albus.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, well-drained, deeply cultivated, alkaline (needs dolomite lime).
Light: Sun.
Management: This plant resents disturbance because it has deep, fine roots. It appears late in
the spring, so mark the spot to avoid damaging roots and crowns. Cut down dead stems in
autumn.
Propagation: Seed, as soon as ripe (four or five years to flower initially); divide with care.
Companions: Geranium, campanula, monarda, hemerocallis, grasses, paeonia, aconitum,
delphinium, Sisyrinchium striatum, pimpinella, Bic lighter.
Notes: Plant is poisonous. The seed capsules open explosively, ejecting round, smooth, shiny
black seeds. Here in the Northwest, dictamnus needs a very warm location to amount to
much.
USDA
Zone
albus 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 White, purple, or Rich green, deeply Star-shaped
pinkish, long stamens divided, leathery, glossy seedpods, black
(E–M) seeds, lemony
fragrance
a. var. purpureus 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Soft mauve-purple As above As above, RHS
with darker veins Award
(E–M)

Dierama 177
Dierama pauciflorum.
DIERAMA Iridaceae
From a vertical series of underground corms (a new one is produced each year) grow grassy
green leaves; in summer, flowers in shades of pink, red, mauve, and deep maroon (depending
on the species or cultivar) hang down from wiry stems. Dierama pulcherrimum, D. pendulum,
and D. pauciflorum are tall and very graceful. Dierama dracomontanum, while also graceful, is
much lower and denser. The leaves are evergreen. New growth does not appear until late spring,
so take care when removing unsightly older leaves. All dieramas come from the summer-moist
regions of South Africa and will need adequate moisture with good drainage to thrive (they need
perfect drainage in our wet winters). I grow D. cooperi, a short, spreading plant, as a pot plant; it
seems to need more moisture in winter but otherwise thrives during that season in a dry, sunny
spot. Spring division should be done with care, as roots are extremely brittle. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek for “funnel,” referring to the shape of the flower.
Common Name: Angel’s fishing rod, fairy wand.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, well-drained, moisture-retentive, acid soil, rich in organic mate-
rial. Keep it moist but not too wet. Graceful, arching inflorescences are highly decorative
when hanging over the garden pond but are probably more successful cultivated on a slope
with good drainage.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant no deeper than they are when purchased.
Management: Resent being moved. If they look ratty in winter do not shear them back, but
remove the dead leaves, in spring only, by giving a sharp tug or cutting off as low as possible.
No support is needed. Do not move in autumn. Do not plant at all in autumn, even if
container grown.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe, April to May (harvest seed by shaking); division in April and
May (include several corms in each clump).

178 Digitalis
Pests and Diseases: Rust, red spider mites.

Companions: A nice big rock—dierama makes a good focal point on its own.
Notes: Clumps over time do get quite large. It’s best not to transplant, divide, or groom in the fall.
USDA
Zone
cooperi 2½ft × 1½ft 7–9 Peachy-pink, a Green, narrow, grassy Seems to grow
smaller flower, faster than D.
floriferous (M) pulcherrimum, but
likes it hot, sunny,
and dry
dracomontanum 18–24in × 7–9 Satiny rose-pink, Green, grassy, evergreen Vigorous, clump-
24in light pink, coral, red, forming, happiest in
purple, or mauve, moist soil
wider open flowers
(M)
pauciflorum 3–6ft × 2ft 7–9 Light to reddish pink Green, grassy May be the hardiest
on arching stems (M)
pendulum 3–6ft × 2ft 7–9 Pale pink-purple, Green, stiff, narrow Needs winter
bell-shaped, on tall protection
branched spikes (M)
pulcherrimum 4–6ft × 2½ft 7–9 Pale to deep magenta Green, long, grassy, Can take a year
to pink, occasionally leathery, evergreen or so to establish,
purple (M) attractive silvery
seedheads
DIGITALIS Scrophulariaceae
Foxgloves come in two versions, the strong and the weak,

and unfortunately the strong are annuals or biennials, and
the weak are perennials. Digitalis purpurea, the common
foxglove introduced from Europe by the settlers and west-
ward expansion, is common throughout the West. White-
flowering forms have long been popular, and it’s easy to
get them in the garden: simply pull all the rest as soon as
the flower color is apparent, and let the whites seed about.
More recent color selections have brought digitalis back
into our gardens in creams and apricots, including some
with dramatically marked throats.
The perennial foxgloves all form a semi-evergreen leafy
crown, which has a tendency to rot in wetter winters (a
rain-protected location is about the only defense we have).
Try to keep spent flower stems completely removed to help
form stronger basal growth for next year. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Latin digitus (“finger”), refer-

ring to the fingerlike flowers.
Common Name: Foxglove.
Digitalis grandiflora.
160-211_TP.indd 178
Digitalis 179
Origin: Central Asia, Europe, northwestern Africa.

Preferred Conditions: Rich in organic material, well-drained, moist but not waterlogged.
Tolerant of a wide range of soils, D. purpurea will colonize in very poor soil.
Light: Sun to shade. May not bloom as well in heavy shade.
Management: Early removal of the entire spent stalk usually stimulates some autumn flow-
ering from basal shoots. This method is most successful for keeping the plants perennial.
Some species self-sow profusely, so deadhead after flowering. Clean up bad leaves any time.
Support is seldom needed.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; seed is best (but only on the biennials).
Pests and Diseases: Snails, mildew, leaf spot. Bait for slugs regularly. Cutworms in early spring
are also a problem and have increased in recent years; the only good method of control is
hand-picking and squishing.
Companions: Dicentra, hosta, ferns, aruncus, cimicifuga, iris, astilbe, paeonia, aquilegia.
Notes: The drug digitalis, used to treat heart disease, is extracted from the leaves of
D. purpurea. All parts of all foxgloves are poisonous. Contact with the foliage may irritate
skin. Bees and hummingbirds love this plant.
USDA
Zone
ferruginea 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–7 Yellowish brown, Dark green, lanceolate, Rusty foxglove,
dark red veins (E–M) deeply veined, rosettes clump-forming,
short-lived, RHS
Award
f. ‘Gelber Harold’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–7 Rusty golden yellow As above Short-lived,
(syn. ‘Yellow (M) clump-forming
Harold’)
grandiflora (syn. 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–8 Pale yellow, tubular Mid-green, broad, hairy, Yellow foxglove,
ambigua) (E–M) lanceolate long-lived, self-
sows, good cut, RHS
Award
g. ‘Carillon’ 1–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Soft yellow with As above Shorter cultivar
brown markings
(E–M)
laevigata 3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Creamy yellow, Mid-green, lanceolate Clump-forming
veined with reddish
brown (E–M)
lanata 2ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale yellow to almost Matte gray-green, Grecian foxglove,
white with purple lanceolate, evergreen RHS Award
netting inside (E–M)
lutea 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–8 Creamy-yellow with Dark green, glossy, Clump-forming, self-
small brown spots lanceolate to oval sows, longer lived
(E–M)
×mertonensis 24–36in × 3–8 Rosy-pink, spotted in Dark green, velvety, Strawberry foxglove,
20in shades of rose, pink, hairy, oval to lanceolate short-lived, true
and white (E–M) from seed, RHS
Award
obscura 1–2ft × 1ft 4–8 Rusty-brown to Gray-green, Shrubby
orange-yellow lanceolate-oblong
with red veins and
spotting (E–M)

180 Disporum
USDA
Zone
parviflora 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–8 Orange-brownish Dark gray-green, oblong Clumping, looks
with purple-brown to lanceolate dingy from a
lip and violet veins distance
(E–M)
purpurea 3–4ft × 2ft 4–8 White, pink Gray-green, large, basal Very adaptable,
to purple with self-sows
markings in the
throat (E–M)
p. ‘Pam’s Choice’ 3–4ft × 2ft 4–8 White with maroon As above
spots in throat
DISPORUM Convallariaceae
Disporum smithii is worth waiting for. It takes a long time, but the shiny dark green leaves
eventually emerge on burgundy stems to form a tight shrublike clump. There it stands until it
turns yellow in the fall. Terminal clusters of bell-shaped white flowers hang from the tip of the
stems and appear in late spring; they are followed by fleshy orange-red fruit. Disporum hookeri
is similar but less robust. Identifying features include shorter tepals that allow the stamens to
be seen and the very narrow taper (hook) at the end of the leaf. These two Northwest natives
are said to need moist soil, but I have found they will grow, albeit slowly, in drier soil; they
surely need shade. Disporum sessile ‘Variegatum’ is the one that you may have to curb, as it
runs quickly. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek di (“two”) and spora (“seed”); each ovary chamber contains
two seeds.
Common Name: Fairy bells.
Origin: East and Southeast Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, well-drained, moist soil.
Light: Part shade.
Management: Top-dress with leaf mold in summer. Root barriers may be necessary under
certain conditions to prevent spreading. Clean up when dormant. Divide when they start
spreading or become crowded.
Propagation: Division in fall or spring when dormant; sow fresh seed outdoors in summer;
germination may take one or two years.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, root weevils, fungal leaf spot.
Companions: Hosta, astilbe, ferns, trillium, astrantia, paris, Helleborus orientalis; H. argutifo-
lius ‘Janet Starnes’ with D. sessile ‘Variegatum’.
Notes: Look for new forms from China, Japan, and Korea from mail-order nurseries that
specialize in woodland plants. For an evergreen version of the look of this genus, choose
Disporopsis pernyi.

Disporum 181
Disporum smithii.
USDA
Zone
flavens 2–2½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Soft yellow, tubular, Green, glossy, lanceolate Clump-forming,
nodding (E) rhizomatous, black
berries in fall
hookeri 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Greenish cream, Green, glossy, ovate- Clump-forming, NW
bell-shaped (E–M) lanceolate, cordate bases native, rhizomatous,
orange-red berries
h. var. oreganum 3ft × 2ft 4–9 Creamy-white bells As above NW native, orange-
(E) red berries in late
summer
sessile 1–1½ft × 3ft+ 4–9 Creamy-white with Light green with bright Rhizomatous, black
‘Variegatum’ green tips, narrow white variegation, berries in fall, can
bells (E) lanceolate become rampant in
light soil
smithii 1ft × 1ft 4–9 Greenish white Shiny dark green, NW native, bushy
to creamy-yellow, lanceolate clumps, pale orange
narrow bells (E–M) berries, rhizomatous,
slow to increase

182 Dodecatheon
Dodecatheon dentatum.
DODECATHEON Primulaceae
We have several native shooting stars on the West Coast, and they are a delight and a surprise
to find in the wild. They usually grow in open areas that are spring-damp and often very dry
in summer, among smaller grasses and other perennials that do not completely swamp them.
Use this as a guide for siting them in your garden. They go dormant by midsummer, so be sure
to mark where they are. Dormancy can also be triggered by transplanting or almost any other
stress—try to locate them in an area that gets little disturbance. The roots, which form a seastar
shape, can be very close to the surface. All make good cut flowers, especially D. meadia, which
has a relatively tall-flowering form. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek dodeka (“twelve”) and thios (“god”), implying that this was a
powerful medicinal plant under the care of the twelve leading gods.
Common Name: Shooting star.
USDA
Zone
dentatum 6in × 4–6in 2–9 White with purple Pale to mid-green, Washington, Oregon,
anthers (E) jagged edge, dormant in and California
summer native, spreads, RHS
Award
hendersonii 6–12in × 3in 2–9 Violet with yellow Green, round, fleshy, West Coast native,
and white bases (E) dormant in summer RHS Award
meadia 12in × 6in 2–9 Pale pink to white at Mid-green, frequently RHS Award
base (E–M) red at base, dormant in
summer
m. f. album 18in × 6in 2–9 Creamy-white with As above RHS Award
dark center (E)

Doronicum 183

Preferred Conditions: Well-drained and humus-rich. Keep them damp in the spring and dry
the rest of the year.
Light: Part shade to sun.
Planting: Best in spring, before dormancy breaks.
Management: Clean up when dormant.
Propagation: Sow seed when ripe in spring (slow from seed); division of multicrowned plants
at planting time in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Rust. Watch for slugs and snails in very early spring and bait accordingly;
they devour these little guys, eating the growth tip, which will damage the plant for the
entire season.
Companions: Primula, epimedium, aquilegia, smaller ferns, jeffersonia, omphalodes.
Notes: Height shown in the chart is for the flower stem; foliage is all at the base.
DORONICUM Asteraceae
The garden forms of leopard’s bane are spring ephemerals; they go dormant after flowering.
They like heavy soil, and if happy will run about by short rhizomes that usually start with one
small leaf, leading to the mistake of thinking they are seedlings. The flowers are borne on tall,
straight stems even in shade, their favorite habitat. The golden daisies, with very thin ray petals,
make a good cut flower. ~ Bob Lilly

Common Name: Leopard’s bane.
Origin: Southeastern Europe, Asia, Turkey.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained.
Doronicum orientale
‘Magnificum’ with
Narcissus ‘Pipit’.

160-211_TP.indd 183 1/10/07 3:51:25 PM
184 Dracocephalum
Management: Plants go dormant by midsummer. May need to be cleaned up at this time.

Deadhead after flowering to encourage a sporadic second flowering; this also helps the
foliage to remain more attractive. Cut down flowering stems when they start to look bad.
Soil moisture is important; they are tolerant of a somewhat drier soil in late summer, when
they are dormant, but they must have moisture in spring and during flowering.
Propagation: Division in autumn; seed in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Leaf spot, root rot, powdery mildew. Doronicum is prone to early, often
very severe damage by slugs and snails.
Companions: Spring bulbs, primula, brunnera, pulmonaria, hosta, viola, myosotis, dicentra,
Milium effusum ‘Aureum’.
USDA
Zone
‘Little Leo’ 12–15in × 15in 5–9 Bright yellow, semi- Bright green Compact and
double, daisy flowers clumping
(E–M)
orientale (syn. 12–24in × 5–9 Yellow, single, on Dark green, cordate with Rhizomatous
caucasicum) 24in stout stems (E) toothed and scalloped
edges
o. ‘Magnificum’ 12–30in × 5–9 Bright yellow, single, Dark green, cordate As above
24in+ larger daisy flowers
(E)
DRACOCEPHALUM Lamiaceae
“May be invasive if site is too welcoming.” Well, as someone who has grown D. grandiflorum in
very dry conditions, edged by gravel, and had it invade mightily, I think the caution is too kind.
Watch out for this one: it has the habit of a mint (same family) and territorial inclinations. The
flowers are pretty enough, but the plant reeks. Stems are very lax and would benefit from pea
sticks or other plants to lean against. So, let’s see—we’ve got a stinky thug with floppy stems that
is not easy to remove. I think not. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek drakon (“dragon”) and kephale (“head’), referring to the
flower shape.
Common Name: Dragonhead.
Origin: Siberia, North Africa, North America, Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moderately fertile, moist. It is an understatement to say it
may become invasive in these conditions.
Management: Yes, we do advise pinching early and border patrol. Cut down when dormant in
autumn or sooner if messy.

Dracocephalum 185
Dracocephalum grandiflorum.
Propagation: Seed, basal cuttings in spring; careful division in spring or autumn.

Pests and Diseases: A trouble-free plant.
Companions: Alchemilla, aquilegia, filipendula.
USDA
Zone
grandiflorum (syn. 1–2ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Large, dark violet- A good strong green Upright, clump-
rupestre) blue in whorls on forming but also
spikes, hooded with rhizomatous, may be
darker spots on the invasive
lower lip (M)

160-211_TP.indd 185 1/10/07 3:51:56 PM
186 Dracunculus
DRACUNCULUS Araceae
I have fond childhood memories of this peculiar plant. We

had a big one in the side yard next to the house. When it
bloomed I’d invite my friends to come over to see it, and
particularly to smell it. The maroon “flowers” are huge,
with a deep burgundy-black spadix in each one. The floral
structure had an odor that made you think something had
died nearby. As kids, we always thought it was carnivo-
rous. (“Feed me, Seymour!”) This very dramatic species has
earned its place in our more “tropical” plantings. Especially
fine planted as a “surprise” in the landscape, combined with
other bold-foliaged companions. Be careful not to let it dry
out in the summer, or it will die back early. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek for “little dragon.”

Common Name: Dragon arum, dragon plant.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, well-drained, moist
but dry in the summer.
Light: Sun. Tolerates shade but will take longer to reach
blooming size.
Planting: Plant tubers six inches deep.
Management: Protect with a loose winter mulch. Separate
tubers every few years, so they can gather enough strength
to flower. The plant dissolves naturally post-bloom.
Propagation: Separate offsets and replant immediately in
spring or autumn.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, a bit.
Companions: Podophyllum, rodgersia, thalictrum,
Epipactis gigantea ‘Serpentine Night’, a fan to blow the
Dracunculus vulgaris. odor away!
USDA
Zone
vulgaris 3–5ft × 2ft 8–10 Maroon-purple Dark green, fan-shaped, May develop heavy
spathe (2–2½ft marked purple-brown heads of scarlet fruit,
across), with erect on mottled stems, new a bit tender
near-black spadix shoots are pale green
(M) with purple spots

Echinacea 187
Echinacea purpurea
‘Magnus’.
ECHINACEA Asteraceae
There are only about five species of perennials in the genus Echinacea, and all share common
characteristics (summed up by such adjectives as “sharp,” “stiff,” “rough,” “dry,” “tough,” “bold,”
even “harsh-textured”), which indicates these plants are not for the unforgiving gardener. Most
species are native to the prairies of central Canada and the midwestern United States. They all
have recognizable cone-shaped flower heads, with ray florets in various colors—pinks, purples,
crimson-red, dark red, and creamy-white. In the perennial border, their erect, coarse stems are a
good contrast to soft, floppy plants.
Echinaceas are much valued as a cut flower. The central cone (disk) is also used in fresh and
dried arrangements and can be left standing over winter for the birds. The dried root is used in
modern herbal medicines, skin creams, and shampoos.
Coneflowers grow best in lots of heat and without competition from close neighboring plants.
They are short-lived even in the best conditions and worth replacing shortly after the funeral.
~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek echinos (“hedgehog”), referring to the prickly “cones.”
Common Name: Purple coneflower, coneflower.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, average, loamy soil with steady moisture. They are
tolerant of poorer soil and somewhat drought tolerant once established. Spring-moist,
summer-dry.
Light: Sun.
160-211_TP.indd 187 1/10/07 3:52:23 PM

188 Echinacea
Management: Cut back stems to base as blooms fade to encourage further flower production,
or leave seedheads on for winter interest. They will occasionally self-sow. Divide every three
to five years.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; root cuttings; seed as soon as ripe (stratification is
required).
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, leaf miner. Watch out for snails and slugs, especially as new
growth emerges.
Companions: Phlox, geranium, grasses, solidago, monarda, achillea, hemerocallis, delphinium,
echinops, coreopsis and other prairie flowers.
Notes: Some have purple stems; choose the best ones when shopping. Echinaceas gener-
ally like hot, full-sun situations in the Pacific Northwest; in particular, E. paradoxa and its
cultivars (the newer orange ones) need heat to flower. Watch for new color forms (orange,
gold, yellow) bred in the Midwest by the Chicago Botanic Garden and others, although their
paradoxa blood may make them less hardy for us.
USDA
Zone
angustifolia 1–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Rose, purplish pink, Narrow, dark green, Long-blooming,
and sometimes lanceolate, hairy drought tolerant,
white, with orange- used in herbal
brown central cone, medicine
ray petals very
narrow (E–M)
pallida 3–5ft × 1ft 3–8 Creamy-white, Dark green, lanceolate, Taller plants are
pink, or pale purple, coarse weak-stemmed,
orange-brown may flop and need
central cone (M–L) support
paradoxa 2–4ft × 1ft 3–8 Golden yellow with Dark green, narrow, Needs maximum
dark brown cone, ray lanceolate heat
petals very narrow
(E–M)
purpurea 2–5ft × 1½ft 3–9 Purplish rose-pink Dark green, lanceolate, Long bloomer,
drooping rays with coarse, red-tinted stems drought and
bronze-brown cone heat tolerant,
(M–L) gardenworthy group
p. ‘Bravado’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Big, rosy-pink, brown As above Large flower
cone (M–L)
p. ‘Bright Star’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Bright rose-pink, As above
maroon cone (M–L)
p. ‘Green Edge’ 3ft × 1½ft 3–9 White with green Dark green, lanceolate
tips, petals are
horizontal (M)
p. ‘Kim’s Knee 1–2ft × 1ft 3–9 Bright pink, bronze- Leathery, green A nice compact plant
High’ brown cone (M–L)
p. ‘Magnus’ 2½–4ft × 3–9 Purplish pink, Heavy, dark green 1998 PPA Award,
1½ft horizontal petals, RHS Award
dark orange cone
(M–L)
p. ‘White Swan’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Creamy-white, Mid-green Honey-scented, a
lime-green cone little less perennial
turns orange-brown,
fragrant (M–L)

Echinops 189
ECHINOPS Asteraceae
Globe thistles make wonderful background plants for more

dramatic and attractive neighbors. Their finely cut foliage
and globular heads of blue or white flowers blend nicely
into the whole. All they ask for is sun and good drainage—
poor soil is a plus. Echinops ritro self-sows for me, which is
appropriate to its supportive role. It can find spots I never
could. Echinops ritro subsp. ruthenicus might be a better
choice, as it’s not disfigured by spittlebugs like E. ritro is.
Echinops is good as a dried flower if cut right before the
florets begin to open—good as a fresh cut at any time. As
with all members of the daisy family, this plant is the “bee’s
knees” to bees. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek echinos (“hedgehog”)

and ops (“like”).
Common Name: Globe thistle.
Origin: Europe, India.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, poor to average soil.
Drought tolerant once established.
Management: The first flowers on young plants should be
cut for the vase, as the plant may not be strong enough
to support the flower stalk. Established plants are hard
to move, so start with new ones. Staking is not usually
needed except for some of the taller species. Post-flow-
ering foliage is often ratty-looking, so cut back once Echinops ritro.
the flowers begin to fade. If mildew is a problem after
flowering, cut to the ground.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; root cuttings; easy from seed in spring; dig out and
transplant offsets that form at the base of older plants.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, aphids, spittlebugs.
Companions: Rudbeckia, helenium, hemerocallis, campanula, echinacea, monarda, smaller
miscanthus, phlox, allium, nepeta, santolina, perovskia.
USDA
Zone
bannaticus 4–6ft × 4–9 Large (1–2in), gray- Gray-green, hairy Clump-forming,
1½–2ft blue, with thick, doesn’t flop,
woolly gray stems reblooms if cut back
(M–L)
b. ‘Blue Globe’ (syn. 2–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Large (2½in), dark Grayish green Reblooms if cut back
‘Blue Glow’) blue (M)
b. ‘Taplow Blue’ 2–4ft × 1–2ft 4–9 Large (2–3in), steel- Grayish green, divided Vigorous, RHS
blue with silvery cast Award
(M)
exaltatus 4–6ft × 2ft 3–8 Large (2in), steel- Gray-green, whitish and Russian globe
blue with white hairy beneath, coarse, thistle, vigorous,
woolly stems (M) prickly, deeply cut clump-forming

190 Echinops
USDA
Zone
ritro 24–60in × 4–9 Large (1½in), steel- Grayish green, silvery Long-lasting,
20in blue, maturing to beneath, stiff and compact, spittlebugs
a lighter blue with leathery a problem, RHS
white woolly stems Award
(M–L)
r. subsp. ruthenicus 36–52in × 4–9 Large (2½in), bright Shiny, dark green, Spittlebugs not
20in steel-blue on gray jagged, narowly divided a problem, RHS
stems (M) Award
r. ‘Veitch’s Blue’ 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Large (1½in), dark Gray-green
blue in bud, light steel-
blue when open (M)
sphaerocephalus 4–8ft × 1–2ft 4–9 Large (1½–2½in), Gray-green, hairy Great globe
gray-white to gray- beneath thistle, vigorous,
blue (M) clump-forming
s. ‘Arctic Glow’ 2–4ft × 1–2ft 4–9 Large (1½in), silvery- As above White globe thistle
white (M)
Echinops ritro subsp. ruthenicus with Sedum telephium subsp. maximum ‘Atropurpureum’, Astilbe ‘Professor van
der Wielen’ seedheads, and Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’.
160-211_TP.indd 190 1/10/07 3:52:48 PM

Eomecon 191
Eomecon chionantha.
EOMECON Papaveraceae
Another poppy family member, the genus Eomecon has only one species, E. chionantha. Rarely
found in nurseries, it is usually at the smaller plant sales or traded among friends. When it finds
a spot it likes, it can be quite aggressive. Even so, it is not hard to control, and it can be perfect for
that contained yet impossible site. Isn’t it curious that there are so many poppy relatives that do
well in shade: meconopsis, chelidonium, stylophorum—and eomecon, which stands out with its
small, white, nodding flowers? ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek mecon (“poppy”).

Common Name: Snow poppy.
Origin: China.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moist, well-drained. Dislikes drought or cold and heavy soil.
Light: Part shade.
Management: Will appreciate an annual mulch of leaf mold. Cut back foliage when it
becomes poor-looking, probably early autumn. It may be necessary to keep under control by
constantly digging around it (spade pruning) and removing runners. It does wander but is
not a pest.
Propagation: Divide and separate rooted runners in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Watch for slugs and snails at all times of the year.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, dicentra, brunnera, mertensia, pulmonaria.
Notes: “Where nothing else will grow, and no one can escape.”
USDA
Zone
chionantha 1ft × 2ft+ 7–9 Glistening white, Large, dull gray-green, Vigorous, orange-red
nodding, with cordate, leathery, sap
yellow-gold slightly crinkle-edged
stamens (E–M) and veined
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06 12 F08 Perennials X 5 CTP Proof G5Q No 6
192 Epilobium
EPILOBIUM Onagraceae
Fireweed is a pest! It has a deep root and runs in almost

any soil. Willow herb, the English common name, sounds so
much better; in northern England and Scotland the species
is shorter, and the flowers seem closer together. Epilobium
angustifolium var. album is a pure white form, with new
growth a clear light green. For best effect let it run about
in a section of the border with other summer perennials to
hold its stems up (or use pea sticks if your clump is dense
enough); it does not appear to set viable seed. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek epi (“upon”) and lobos

(“pod”).
Common Name: Fireweed, willow herb.
Origin: Northern Europe, North America, Asia, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, humus-rich—any
reasonable soil that is not too dry.
Management: Deadhead after flowering to reduce self-
seeding and encourage some repeat bloom. Clean up in
fall dormancy. Can be an elusive wanderer and really
doesn’t need fertilizer. For best results, don’t cut back in
the first three years.
Propagation: Divide in autumn or spring; cuttings from
Epilobium angustifolium var. album.
basal side shoots in spring; or sow seed in containers in
cold frames.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, rust, snails. Watch for slugs when plants first emerge in the
spring—but how can a pest have a pest?
Companions: Helleborus foetidus, smilacina, ferns, acanthus, Aruncus dioicus; at the edge of a
wood or shrub border.
Notes: Epilobium angustifolium has been known to throw slight color variations in the wild;
some named clones of it have been sighted, but they will be just as vigorous. In the chart, the
symbol ' = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
angustifolium 5–6ft × ' 2–9 Rose-pink (M–L) Narrow, dark green, Invasive
undersides gray-green
a. var. album (syn. 4–5ft × ' 2–9 White, saucer- Very narrow, pale green Less invasive but can
leucanthum) shaped with silky still be a nuisance
seedheads (M–L)
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06 12 F08 Perennials X 5 CTP Proof G5Q No 6 0
Epimedium 193
Epimedium
perralderianum.
EPIMEDIUM Berberidaceae
An underused and underappreciated genus of wonderful woodland plants. Epimediums are

among the best plants for dry shade. Their foliage is variable in size, from less than one inch to up
to ten inches long. The new growth often has beautiful tints, variously edged and mottled with
maroon, and many forms have equally lovely leaves in fall and winter. Flowers too are variable in
color, ranging from white, light yellow, and bright yellow to reddish orange and rosy purple; they
are borne in spring on tender stems. Most are held facing downward; often they have prominent
spurs. Several plants are evergreen, but all receive the same treatment from us: once they are
established, their leaves are removed to the ground in winter before the flower stems rise anew.
Their stems become wiry over the course of a year, but the new stems are easily broken; so—in
order to see the flowers, which are often hidden in the old foliage, and to enjoy the beautiful new
leaves as they emerge—we trim back the old foliage in winter.
Epimediums begin to bloom when the narcissus are blooming, making lovely color combina-
tions possible: Narcissus ‘Pipit’ with any pale yellow–flowering epimedium; N. ‘Waterperry’ with
E. ×warleyense; N. ‘Thalia’ and E. ×youngianum ‘Niveum’ are just a few examples. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek epi (“upon”) and media, the country of the Medes.
Common Name: Bishop’s hat, barrenwort, bishop’s mitre, fairy wings.
Origin: Southeastern Europe, Asia Minor, East Asia, Algeria.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moderately moist, humus-rich. Some will tolerate dry
shade and competition from tree roots. Most will flourish under more moist conditions.
Management: This is a low-maintenance plant. Remember to trim back foliage in winter, before
the new flower stems appear. Give plants an annual top dressing of leaf mold or other organic
material (no deeper than two inches). Many are slow to establish; for best results leave all vari-
eties alone for the first two years, then begin the winter cutback for flower show.

194 Epimedium
Propagation: Division in early spring as new growth begins, or in autumn. Division is easiest if
clumps are washed first so you can see the roots. The older the clump, the harder to divide.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, aphids. Root weevils can be a big problem.
Companions: Anemone blanda, narcissus, muscari, hyacinthoides, arisarum, hosta, astilbe,
ferns, pulmonaria, brunnera, helleborus, primula; under trees and shrubs.
Notes: Plant E. ×youngianum and cultivars where you want clumping rather than spreading
plants. The flowers and the leaves are a good choice for arrangements. There are many
wonderful species and cultivars, but those available at retail seem to be dwindling—try
mail order. The parents of E. ×perralchicum are E. perralderianum and E. pinnatum subsp.
colchicum, and this is important to know because these are often confused in the trade.
USDA
Zone
acuminatum 12in × 18in 5–9 Large, rosy-purple Marbled reddish brown Evergreen, variable
and white, long when young aging to in the wild
spurs, arching sprays green, glossy, spiny
(E–M) margins, leathery, ovate
to lanceolate
alpinum 6–12in × 12in 5–9 Small, creamy yellow Green turning reddish Alpine barrenwort,
with red sepals (E) in fall, spiny margins, herbaceous, tolerant
cordate of dry soil
brachyrrhizum 8–12in × 12in 5–8 Rose-pink (E) Pink to rose-purple Evergreen

when young, ages to
dark green, leathery
×cantabrigiense 8–18in × 24in 5–9 Small, light yellow Mid-green with ovate Evergreen, vigorous,
with reddish edges, leaflets, leathery, good tolerant of dry soil
spurless (E) autumn tones
davidii 12–20in × 5–9 Yellow or yellow and Coppery when young, Evergreen,
18in+ purplish red, spurred aging to green, ovate to long-blooming
(E–M) ovate-lanceolate, glossy,
jagged-edged
‘Enchantress’ 16in × 12in 5–9 Small, pale lilac- Dark green, glossy Evergreen, vigorous
pink, long spurs,
floriferous (E)
epsteinii 6–10in × 5–9 White with reddish Green, glossy As above
12in+ purple spurs,
floriferous (E)
franchetii 8–24in × 6–9 Light yellow with Long green pointed Evergreen
18in+ pale yellow or leaflets, coppery in
greenish inner petals, spring
long spurs (E–M)
grandiflorum (syn. 8–15in × 12in 5–9 Large, crimson and Bronze-tinted when Herbaceous, good
macranthum) white or pink and young aging to autumn color, RHS
white, pendent, long green, ovate-cordate, Award
spurs (E) prominent veins
g. ‘Album’ 6–12in × 12in 5–9 Large, white, long Bright green, dark edges, Herbaceous, smaller
spurs (E) on wiry stems plant
g. ‘Lilafee’ 8–12in × 12in 5–9 Large, violet-purple, Tinted purplish bronze Floriferous, vigorous,
long spurs (E) when young aging to herbaceous
green

Epimedium 195
USDA
Zone
g. ‘Nanum’ 6–10in × 12in 5–9 White (E) Green, edged with red Dwarf, herbaceous,
RHS Award
g. ‘Rose Queen’ 12–15in × 12in 5–9 Large, deep rose- Reddish in spring, dark Herbaceous, RHS
pink, white-tipped bronze in fall, small Award
spurs (E)
g. f. violaceum 7–10in × 12in 5–9 Large rosy-pink with Light reddish with Herbaceous
white tips (E) purple tints in spring,
aging to green
g. ‘White Queen’ 8–15in × 12in 5–9 Large, white (E) Small, reddish in spring Herbaceous, RHS
aging to dark green Award
×perralchicum 12–18in × 5–9 Large, bright yellow, Large, bronze in spring Evergreen, runs over
18in+ pendent, short spurs aging to green, glossy, time, vigorous, best
(E) toothed, leathery, in full sun, tolerant of
rounded dry soil, RHS Award
×p. ‘Frohnleiten’ 8–16in × 5–9 Bright yellow, Reddish tints in spring Evergreen, tolerant
18in+ pendent, short spurs and fall, aging to dark of dry soil, vigorous,
(E) green, shiny, toothed, spreads
veined, leathery
perralderianum 12–15in × 5–9 Tiny, bright yellow, Bronze in spring Evergreen, tolerant
24in flattish, brown spurs marbled with light of dry soil, vigorous
(E) green, aging to dark
green, glossy, toothed,
cordate-ovate
pinnatum 8–15in × 18in 4–9 Bright yellow with Dark green, bronze As above
brownish purple margins in spring, oval-
spurs (E–M) cordate, leathery
p. subsp. colchicum 10–18in × 18in 5–9 Large, bright yellow, Deep green, rounded As above, RHS
brown or yellowish leaflets, glossy, burgundy Award
spurs (E) tints in fall and winter
p. subsp. colchicum 10–18in × 18in 5–9 Small, bronzy-yellow Blue-green, red stems, Evergreen, tolerant
‘Black Sea’ (E) purple tints in fall of dry soil
pubigerum 18in × 12in 5–9 Tiny, creamy white, Soft green, ovate- As above
pink or yellow, tall rounded, leathery, glossy
sprays above the
leaves (E)
×rubrum 9–12in × 12in 4–9 Small, crimson and Bronze-red when young Semi-evergreen,
creamy-white (E) aging to green, bronze in tolerates dry soil,
fall, spiny edges, cordate floriferous, clump-
forming, RHS Award
×versicolor 12–16in × 18in 5–9 Pale yellow and pink Coppery-red and brown Evergreen to semi-
with red-tinted spurs aging to mid-green, evergreen, slow
(E) cordate, toothed spreader
×v. 8–12in × 12in 5–9 Soft yellow clusters, Emerge bronze, age to Evergreen,
‘Neosulphureum’ short spurs (E) green clump-forming
×v. ‘Sulphureum’ 10–16in × 5–9 Pale sulphur-yellow Mid-green, speckled Evergreen, vigorous,
16in+ with yellow and red and brown, cordate, spreads, RHS Award
white spurs (E) leathery, great fall color
×v. ‘Versicolor’ 12–14in × 5–9 Small, yellow with Coppery-red in spring, Semi-evergreen,
16in+ deep reddish pink aging to green, coppery- tolerant of dry soil,
sepals (E) red in fall spreads

196 Eremurus
USDA
Zone
×warleyense 12–20in × 5–9 Small, reddish Tinted red in spring and Evergreen, tolerant
18in+ orange inner sepals, fall, ages to light green, of dry soil, spreads
bright yellow petals ovate-cordate, toothed
with brown tips (E)
×w. ‘Orangekönigin’ 18–20in × 5–9 Light orange (E) Bright green, tinted red Evergreen, slow
18in+ in fall, ovate-cordate to establish,
clump-forming
×youngianum 8–12in × 5–9 Small, white, Marked red in spring Herbaceous, one of
12–14in nodding, spurred or aging to green, deep red the last to bloom,
spurless (E) in fall, toothed clump-forming
×y. ‘Niveum’ 6–12in × 5–9 Small, white, Small, pale brownish Herbaceous, clump-
12–14in sometimes spurred fading to light green, forming, slow-
(E) toothed, reddish tints growing, RHS Award
in fall
×y. ‘Roseum’ (syn. 6–12in × 4–9 Rose-pink tinted Variable, red in spring, Herbaceous,
‘Lilacinum’) 12in+ shades of purple (E) ages to green then red slow-growing
in fall, often mottled
burgundy, cordate
EREMURUS Asphodelaceae
Foxtail lilies have an interesting character right from the

beginning. Often listed as bulbs, these perennials form a star-
fish-shaped crown of long, fleshy roots. Drainage is critical,
and they like a summer bake. Give them your warmest site
for the best performance. Well-grown plants can exceed six
feet in height. Just imagine a group of eight or so E. ×isabel-
linus ‘Cleopatra’, towering stems with the upper third in
coppery orange flowers that collectively resemble a bushed-
out foxtail. Plant in front of shrubs with maroon- to copper-
colored foliage for a beautiful combination. If you can bear to
cut them, they make good cut flowers. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek eremia (“desert”) and

oura (“tail”).
Common Name: Foxtail lily, desert candle.
Origin: West and Central Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, fertile, sandy. Moist
during the growing season, but dry during dormancy.
Doesn’t like winter-wet. Shelter from wind (stems are
stronger in the wild, where they grow in lean soils in
the open).
Light: Sun.
Planting: Usually planted in the fall. Be sure not to plant
them too deep or where foot traffic might compromise
their brittle roots. Don’t plant too close together; the
Eremurus ×isabellinus ‘Cleopatra’.

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Erigeron 197
roots become quite extensive, and competition can shade the foliage, in which case your
eremurus will decline rapidly and go away. Don’t let the roots dry out when transplanting.
Management: Remove dead leaves as they die back in summer. Taller ones may need staking.
Crowns and fleshy roots are easily damaged, so noting their location before dormancy would
be a good idea. New young growth can be damaged by a late frost, so protect with a mulch
and remove when frost danger is past. Cut back flower stem if you like. The old stems are
pretty interesting and could be left until they’re not.
Propagation: Seed—sow fresh right after harvest (slow to germinate); division of established
clumps in midsummer after blooming; it’s best to buy new crowns.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs in early spring.
Companions: Verbascum, kniphofia, euphorbia, miscanthus, ‘Goldflame’ spiraea, Crambe
cordifolia, Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’; good at the back of the border, where they can
appear above or in between other plants and then die back into obscurity.
Notes: The spread given in the chart is the width of the crown of basal foliage, which dies back
by midsummer.
USDA
Zone
himalaicus 3–6ft × 3ft 5–9 White (M) Green, straplike Elegant
×isabellinus 4–6ft × 4ft 5–9 Deep burnt-orange As above Striking color
‘Cleopatra’ (M)
×i. Ruiter Hybrids 4–6ft × 4ft 5–9 Mixed pastels and As above Usually mixed colors
bright yellow, orange,
and white (M)
robustus 8–10ft × 4ft 5–9 Pink (M) Long, broad, coarse, Very large form, RHS
with rough edges Award
stenophyllus 3–5ft × 4ft 5–9 Dark yellow fading to Narrow, gray-green, RHS Award
orange-brown (M) straplike
s. subsp. 3–6ft × 3ft 5–9 Deep yellow (M) As above Compact, doesn’t
stenophyllus (syn. resent having
bungei) dormant crowns
shaded as long as not
damp
ERIGERON Asteraceae
Fleabanes must work—there are no fleas nearby. Nor have I seen leopards. Generally short-
lived but such good performers you can just accept replanting them from time to time. They are
easy to grow and very long-blooming, especially if deadheaded regularly. Variable habits among
the species mean that you can have taller, large-flowering plants in mixed herbaceous borders,
some that bloom for months, or you can grow the diminutive forms. One of the best of these is
E. karvinskianus, which self-sows if happy (well-drained soil, sun, some winter protection) and
blooms from late spring until late fall. The individual flowers on this plant are less than one inch
across, opening white and gradually changing to deep pink, with all colors present on the plant
at the same time. It is wonderful in paving or trailing out of containers, and also works well as a
rockery plant—plant it at the top, and over time it will seed into the wall and cascade down the
face to the ground. ~ Carrie Becker

198 Erigeron
Scientific Name: From the Greek eri (“early”) and geron

(“old man”).
Common Name: Fleabane.
Origin: North and South America, eastern Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Any well-drained, fertile soil.
Takes average moisture but tolerates drought.
Light: Sun.
Management: The taller ones may need staking, especially
if grown in fertile soil. Deadhead for repeat bloom.
Cut back large-flowering forms after blooming to basal
leaves. Erigeron karvinskianus can be cut back by half
in spring if too leggy. Divide every two or three years or
when the middle part of the plant wears out. Trim to
control, and clean up in the fall.
Propagation: Seed is best; root basal cuttings February
through May; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, aphids, rust, leaf
spot, slugs.
Companions: Lavandula, coreopsis, iris, rudbeckia,
stachys, Anaphalis triplinervis, heuchera, oenothera,
phlox, smaller grasses, eryngium, sedum, artemisia,
kniphofia.
Notes: Full sun is best in the maritime Northwest. Butter-
flies love the flowers. Some make a good cut flower if
picked when fully open.
Erigeron ‘Prosperity’.
USDA
Zone
aurantiacus 10–15in × 6–8 Bright orange, semi- Velvety, green, spoon- Clump-forming, not
12in double (M) shaped, on thick stems reliably winter hardy
‘Dunkelste Aller’ 18–24in × 5–8 Deep violet-blue Gray-green, lanceolate, Short-lived, RHS
(syn. ‘Darkest of 12in with yellow center, hairy Award
All’) semi-double (M)
glaucus 12–18in × 12in 5–8 Lavender-pink to Blue-green Semi-evergreen
pink (M–L)
karvinskianus (syn. 6–8in × 8in 8–10 Small, daisylike, Dark green, lanceolate, Very airy, not reliably
‘Profusion’) opens white and ages on trailing stems winter hardy, self-
to pink-purple, with sows in warmer
a yellow center (E–L) climates, RHS Award
‘Prosperity’ 12–24in × 5–8 Lavender-blue, Lanceolate Erect,
12in yellow center, single clump-forming
to semi-double (M)
‘Rosa Juwel’ (syn. 12–30in × 5–8 Bright to pale pink, As above
‘Pink Jewel’) 12in yellow center, semi-
double (M–L)
160-211_TP.indd 198
Eryngium 199
Eryngium alpinum.
ERYNGIUM Apiaceae
There is nothing like an eryngium for that bold, exotic look. Hard to believe these teasel-like
flower heads belong to the carrot family! The seeds all have little barbs on them—Miss Willmott
must have worn leather gloves, or had bloody fingers (it is actually best to let E. giganteum seed
about). Some like heavy soil; all do best with the soil a bit lean and not too much competition
from aggressive neighbors. Most have a crown of large basal leaves that need to get a good day of
sun; the strong stems that come up from the crown rarely need staking. Flower heads are cone-
shaped and made up of very small florets that bloom from the base upward; they are loved by
bees and butterflies. These heads usually have prominent bracts, which are sharp and spiny, or
even soft. All dry well; E. giganteum in particular dries to a ghostly almost-white. For beautifully
marked foliage, look for E. variifolium and E. bourgatii. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek for a thistle with spiny-toothed leaves.
Common Name: Sea holly, eryngo.
Origin: West and Central Asia, Mediterranean, Europe, North and South America.
Preferred Conditions / Light: Most will adapt to a wide range of conditions from fertile,
average soil to some really dreadful conditions. All bloom best in sun but tolerate part shade.
Group 1. Blue or white flowers. Likes dry, well-drained, poor to moderately fertile soil in sun.
No winter wet.
Group 2. Tends to have green flowers. Likes moist, well-drained, more fertile soil in sun. Cool
nights produce the best color.
Management: Has deep taproots and does not like to be disturbed. Will benefit from a gravel
or crushed rock mulch around the crown, out to about six inches and two inches deep; this
will keep winter-wet off the crowns, a situation that we have found kills the broader-leaved
forms (E. agavifolium, E. yuccifolium). If grown in overly rich soil or with too much fertilizer,
some of the larger species can flop and may need staking. Cut back when no longer attrac-
tive to you, or by spring at the latest.
06_12_F08 Perennials A Gardener’s Reference_X.5_G5Q_06_CTP

160-211_TP.indd 199 1/10/07 2:17:29 PM
200 Eryngium
Eryngium ×tripartitum and Penstemon heterophyllus ‘Catherine de la Mare’ share a border with Alcea rosea,
a good red hemerocallis, Asiatic and Oriental lilies in bud and bloom, and ‘Japanese Bishop’ dahlia.
Propagation: Seed when ripe in late summer but can be a challenge to

germinate; root cuttings in late winter; division in spring—remove the
pups that form at the base.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, root rot. Watch for slugs and
snails in early spring.
Companions: Ornamental grasses, late alliums, helenium, artemisia,
echinacea, brodiaea, anthemis, achillea, Alchemilla mollis, hardy fuch-
sias, Phlox paniculata, aster, galtonia; the summer border.
Notes: These are long-lasting blooms and eventually dried flower
heads in the garden. With their strong stems, they can even be left
up for winter interest. Great for drying—pick before all the florets
are finished opening and hang them to dry. Also good for fresh cut
arrangements. The spread in chart is the width of the basal foliage;
leaves are basal unless otherwise noted.
160-211_TP.indd 200
06_12_F08 Perennials A Gardener’s Reference_X.5_G5Q_06_CTP 1/10/07 2:17:30 PM
Eryngium 201
USDA
Zone
agavifolium (syn. 3–5ft × 2ft 5–8 Greenish white, Broad, sword-shaped, Group 2, evergreen
bromeliifolium) thimble-shaped, small rich green, glossy,
bracts (M) sharp-toothed
alpinum 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Emerge white, aging Oval to heart-shaped, Group 1, blue stems,
1½ft to steel-blue, then to mid-green with upper RHS Award
tan, blue bracts (M–L) leaves tinged blue, glossy
a. ‘Blue Star’ 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Deep metallic blue As above Group 1
1½ft (M)
a. ‘Slieve Donard’ 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Large, deep blue, with As above Group 1
1½ft soft bracts (M)
a. ‘Superbum’ 2½ft × 1½ft 5–8 Large, intense steel- As above Group 1
blue with soft, spiny
bracts (M)
amethystinum 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Small, amethyst-blue Green, upper leaves Group 1, best in a hot
1½ft with long, steel-blue blue, leathery, narrow summer garden
bracts (M–L) and divided
bourgatii 1½–2ft × 5–8 Spiny, blue-green Gray-green with white Group 1, hot sun,
1½ft with steel-blue bracts veins, prickly and deeply evergreen, clumping
(M) cut
eburneum (syn. 3–5ft × 2ft 5–8 Tiny, green with white Mid-green, arching, Group 2, evergreen,
paniculatum) stamens, whitish grassy, with thin spines, clumping
green bracts (M) sword-shaped
giganteum (syn. 2–4ft × 1ft 5–8 Silvery-gray, bluish Mid-green, heart- Group 1, biennial,
‘Miss Willmott’s tint when young, with shaped, dries to stiff, RHS Award
Ghost’) silver bracts (M–L) very sharp
maritimum 1–2ft × 2ft 5–8 Pale bluish green, Glaucous, stiff, leathery Group 1, sea holly,
a few broad, spiny, needs perfect
silvery bracts (M–L) drainage
×oliveranum 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Large, blue with Dark green, spiny, Group 1, clumping,
brilliant blue bracts toothed RHS Award
(M–L)
planum 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Small, steel-blue with Dark green, heart- Group 1, evergreen,
spiky blue-green shaped, spineless, may need staking if
bracts (M–L) scalloped grown in rich soil
p. ‘Blaukappe’ 2–2½ft × 5–8 Intense blue, spiky Dark green, Group 1, evergreen
1½ft blue bracts (M–L) heart-shaped basal growth
×tripartitum 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Steel-blue with spiky Dark green rosettes, Group 1, evergreen,
dark blue bracts white veins, toothed RHS Award
(M–L)
variifolium 18–24in × 5–8 Gray-blue with wide Dark green, small, Group 1, evergreen,
10in spiny bracts (M–L) rounder, white veins clumping
yuccifolium 3–4ft × 2ft 5–8 Small, whitish green Blue-gray, straplike, Group 2,
with gray-green spiny margins rattlesnake master,
bracts (M–L) semi-evergreen
×zabelii 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Large, intense blue, Dark-green, heart- Group 1,
1½ft green-tipped blue shaped, spiny-toothed semi-evergreen
bracts (M–L)
×z. ‘Donard 2½–3ft × 5–8 Steel-blue heads and Green, white-veined, Group 1, good
Variety’ 1½ft bracts (M–L) large-toothed, leathery summer foliage

202 Erysimum
Erysimum
‘Bowles’ Mauve’. ERYSIMUM Brassicaceae
These stalwart late winter and early spring bloomers have long been relied upon for their early
performance. The smallish four-petaled flowers in tall racemes provide masses of color and
make good plants for bedding out. Erysimums are subshrubby and short-lived (my approach
is to start cuttings to replace the current plants); but every rule has its exception, and my
E. ‘Bowles’ Mauve’ has made a four-foot hedge—in the front of the border, of course. Meanwhile
its replacements are dying in the pots.
We have listed here the perennial erysimums we consider the hardiest. Most wallflowers in
the trade are Cheiranthus cheiri (bedding wallflower) and are extremely fragrant—and biennial.
~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek erysimon, which word was applied to biennial and perennial
herbs.
Common Name: Wallflower.
Origin: North America, Europe, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Poor to moderately fertile, neutral to alkaline soil that is well-drained.
Winter hardiness is more of a problem with wet and soggy conditions. Protect from strong
winds.
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Erysimum 203

Management: Remove flower stems as they finish; snip off down a few leaves into the foliage,
and you will be rewarded with a more compact and uniform plant. Take cuttings annually
to ensure against winter losses. Shape plants after they bloom to stimulate new growth. Put
a light mulch around them in winter, but not over the crown. Deadhead as necessary. They
might benefit from lime as they prefer an alkaline soil.
Propagation: Seed in summer; cuttings in summer.
Pests and Diseases: Clubroot, downy mildew, fungal leaf spot, snails, slugs, cabbage moth.
Companions: Aquilegia, dicentra, viola, primula, scabiosa, knautia, tulips, narcissus, hyacinth,
nassella.
Notes: Take the plunge and cut the flower stems off E. ‘Bowles’ Mauve’ before they finish
flowering. It is nearly never out of bloom, which makes taking our advice difficult. Actually,
every time you deadhead, it goes right back into bloom, so you can hardly go wrong.
USDA
Zone
‘Bowles’ Mauve’ 2–3ft × 3ft+ 6–9 Rich mauve-purple Silvery grayish Upright, long-
on long racemes green flushed purple blooming,
(E–L) underneath, narrow, evergreen, short-
lanceolate lived, RHS Award
cheiri ‘Harpur 10–12in × 6–9 Double, deep yellow, Dark green, narrow, Bushy, short-lived,
Crewe’ 12in fragrant (E–L) pointed evergreen
‘John Codrington’ 8–12in × 12in 6–9 Red-bronze buds Deep green, narrow, Small, shrublike,
open to smoky lanceolate evergreen
burgundy, fade to
pale yellow, fragrant
(E–M)
‘Julian Orchard’ 15–20in × 6–9 Deep reddish purple Deep blue-green Compact, evergreen
12in with red flush, fades
to purple slightly
fragrant (E–M)
linifolium 1–2ft × 1½ft 6–9 Deep purple and Green, edged in white Very short-lived,
‘Variegatum’ brown aging to and cream, narrow evergreen
mauve-purple and
copper (E–L)
‘Margaret Lockett’ 2ft × 2ft 6–9 Mauve-purple (E–L) Silvery grayish green More compact
than ‘Bowles’
Mauve’ but very
similar otherwise,
evergreen
‘Orange Flame’ 3–6in × 10in 4–9 Orange, fragrant Light green, toothed Prostrate, evergreen
(E–L)
‘Wenlock Beauty’ 1–1½ft × 6–9 Variable, mauve- Dark green, lanceolate Compact, evergreen
1½ft purple, bronze, and
pink with peach
overtones, slightly
fragrant (E–L)

204 Eucomis
EUCOMIS Hyacinthaceae
This very hardy perennial bulb from South Africa does very
well for us in the Pacific Northwest. They do like it a bit
dry during dormancy and look good in pots, but don’t leave
them unprotected in a wet, cold winter in those pots. You
can divide when the clumps get large, or propagate from
leaf cuttings—a rare feature in the hyacinth family. This is
a good cut flower and can’t be beat for late interest in the
summer border or as a container plant. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek eu (“good”) and kome

(“hair”)—a beautiful head, in other words.
Common Name: Pineapple flower, pineapple lily.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, rich soil with lots of
humus; moisture-retentive during growing season, but
dry during dormancy.
Management: A good winter mulch of straw or fir boughs
will help protect from the cold. Divide when plant
becomes too crowded and flower production is reduced.
Allow the leaves to cure before removal.
Propagation: Seed, but plants take three to four years to
reach flowering size; division when necessary in spring;
offsets can be detached and replanted in spring; leaf
cuttings in the fall.
Pests and Diseases: Watch for snails and slugs at all times.
Companions: Kniphofia, angelica, nepeta, hosta, short
grasses, carex; excellent in pots alone or in combination
Eucomis comosa.
with other summer perennials and grasses.
USDA
Zone
bicolor 1–2ft × 1½ft 8–10 Nodding, starry Light green with wavy Variegated pineapple
green, margined edges, straplike, stems lily, RHS Award
with purple (M) mottled with brownish
red
comosa (syn. 1½–2ft × 2ft 8–10 White to pink (M) Light green with purple Wine eucomis,
punctata) spotting beneath, stems purple seed capsule
spotted purple at base
c. ‘Sparkling 15–20in × 2ft 8–10 Green blushed Deep burgundy-purple Will propagate from
Burgundy’ purple with leaf cuttings
purple bracts (M)
160-211_TP.indd 204
Eupatorium 205
Eupatorium purpureum
subsp. maculatum
‘Gateway’.
EUPATORIUM Asteraceae
“If you have nothing nice to say…” The intrigue of these plants has definitely waned for some of
us. All it took was a few years of growing E. purpureum subsp. maculatum ‘Gateway’ and having
it self-sow into the crowns of everything else. The standard maintenance advice is to just dead-
head it at the end of bloom time. The problem is, how does a six-foot plant with no head look
in the garden? The foliage is coarse and has no redeeming value except for that of E. rugosum
‘Chocolate’, which has become our favorite. In full sun, it has lovely brownish purple leaves
and then in fall, flat corymbs of fluffy white flowers. And it doesn’t seem to self-sow. (If you like
ageratum, you’ll understand from its flowers why E. rugosum is called hardy ageratum.)
We should mention another one or two eupatorium “qualities.” One, the difficulty of dividing
mature plants—get out your pry bar; and two, the color of the flowers—dingy mauve at best.
~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: Greek name, from Mithridates Eupator, king of Portus.

Common Name: Joe-Pye weed, hardy ageratum, boneset.
Origin: Europe, North Africa, Central Asia, eastern North America.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, moisture-retentive soil. Tolerates a variety of conditions, but
plant size may be affected. Keep them moist until established, then they’re fairly drought
tolerant.
Light: Sun to part shade; sun only for E. rugosum ‘Chocolate’ for best color.
Management: They can be pinched back in May or June for a shorter plant and later bloom.
They also can be cut back to as short as six inches in June (this doesn’t work very well in the
Pacific Northwest). Frequent division slows the rampant instincts of some, and rejuvenates
failing clumps in others. Cut back after flowering or during the fall/winter cleanup when
dormant. In exposed areas, some may need staking (with three- to four-foot pea sticks).
Fluffy seedheads left on during the winter extend the season of interest, but plants do
become fertile with age and will self-sow profusely.
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160-211_TP.indd 205 12/11/06 2:42:03 PM
206 Eupatorium
Propagation: Division in winter and spring; some forms self-sow.

Pests and Diseases: Mildew, leaf spot, leaf miners.
Companions: Grasses, Sedum ‘Herbstfreude’, Hydrangea paniculata, Echinacea purpurea, Hele-
nium autumnale, aster, cimicifuga, solidago, Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’.
Notes: Attractive to butterflies and bees. Flowers are good for both fresh and dried arrange-
ments. Large, established clumps of E. purpureum subsp. maculatum ‘Gateway’ should not be
allowed to get bone dry.
USDA
Zone
album 3ft × 2ft 3–8 White (M) Green, serrated, hairy Eastern U.S. native,
stems slugs love this plant
cannabinum 4ft × 3ft 3–8 Pink to coppery-red, Light green Self-sows,
sometimes white (M) considered a weed in
Britain
c. ‘Flore Pleno’ 4ft × 3ft 3–8 Soft-pink, double As above Sterile, doesn’t
(M) self-sow
fistulosum 6–14ft × 3ft 3–8 Purple-mauve, Dark green, serrated, in Joe-Pye weed
flower heads 1ft wide whorls, purple stalks are
(M–L) bamboolike and hollow
f. ‘Selection’ 5–6ft × 3ft+ 3–8 Lilac-mauve, in As above
clusters, 1–1½ft wide
(M–L)
purpureum 7–10ft × 3ft 3–8 Pale pink to purple or Green, whorled, with Vigorous
white, 1–1½ft wide a vanilla scent, green
(M–L) stems are hollow
p. ‘Bartered Bride’ 4–8ft × 3ft 3–8 White, in large Pale green Long-flowering
clusters on stiff stems
(L)
p. subsp. 5–8ft × 3ft 3–8 Reddish purple, Pale green, purple More cold hardy,
maculatum dense (L) speckled and mottled RHS Award
stems
p. subsp. 4–7ft × 3ft+ 3–8 Reddish purple, 1½ft Green, textured, in
maculatum wide (L) whorls, purplish black
‘Atropurpureum’ stems
p. subsp. 6ft × 3ft+ 3–8 Rose-mauve, very Green, large, textured, in Bold, comes true
maculatum large flower heads whorls, purplish black from seed
‘Gateway’ (L) stems
rugosum 3–4ft × 2½ft 4–9 White, ageratumlike, Green, pointed, ovate White snakeroot,
loose (L) and sharply toothed may need staking
r. ‘Chocolate’ 3–4ft × 2½ft 4–9 White (L) Chocolate-purple with Striking foliage, RHS
shiny purple stems Award

Euphorbia 207
Euphorbia griffithii ‘Fireglow’ with Siberian iris.
EUPHORBIA Euphorbiaceae
One of the most dramatic plants for your garden, spurge offers diversity of height, form, color and
habit. The genus includes many tender species, such as poinsettias, which are grown in tropical
and subtropical zones. Fortunately for us, however, there are spurges that put on quite a show
and increase very well in a variety of conditions throughout the United States. Showy bracts
surround small flowers in shades that will satisfy one’s lust for almost any color, from lime-green
to the orange-red of E. griffithii ‘Fireglow’. Spurges are also valued for their (usually whorled)
leaves, with everything from glaucous or variegated greens through to the dark bronze-purple
of E. dulcis ‘Chameleon’.
Are euphorbias too good to be true? Well, shameless propagators (E. schillingii, E. characias)
seed about, and others (E. amygdaloides var. robbiae, E. cyparissias) spread assertively by runners.
Many keep their shape and form for months, some even the entire year. Some are deciduous and
will need to be cut down in winter. Euphorbia characias, one of our most valuable garden plants,
has a specific care regimen: it and all its forms flower off the previous year’s growth, which
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208 Euphorbia
Euphorbia characias
‘Portuguese Velvet’.
Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii, its seedheads just going over, with Acanthus spinosus in a border edged by
a good pink diascia.
160-211_TP.indd 208
Euphorbia 209
is removed either at the end of flowering, or after seed sets, or after the bracts no longer look
showy. The first option gives you a more controlled compact plant (and no seedlings!). Its blue-
gray foliage is a wonderful look in winter.
Euphorbias exude a caustic, milky sap from the roots and stems that may cause skin rashes
and burns. If you get any of this juice on your skin, wash it off immediately and on no account
get it anywhere near your eyes. Skin irritation can be worse if exposed to direct sunlight (photo-
toxicity).
Spurges associate well with other plants, offering their companions a dramatic edge, architec-
tural stature, and vivid yellows and golds. Place E. characias subsp. characias ‘Humpty Dumpty’
in front of dark evergreen shrubs, with spring bulbs in the foreground, and you’ll really appre-
ciate this beauty. They deserve all the attention they get! ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: For Euphorbus, physician to the king of Mauritania.

Common Name: Spurge, mousemilk.
Origin: Southwestern Asia, Britain, Europe, Mediterranean.
Group 1. Well-drained, light soil in full sun.
Group 2. Moist, humus-rich soil in part shade.
Group 3. Permanently moist soil and full sun.
Planting: Move seedlings when small; large plants do not transplant easily. The fleshy roots
don’t hold soil well.
Management: Resents disturbance. After blooming, cut spent flower stems to new basal
growth, and new growth will quickly appear. It is best to wait for the basal growth to begin
before cutting back.
Propagation: Division in spring for named varieties (E. characias is not dividable—seed only);
seed as soon as ripe; basal or small branchlet cuttings in spring and early summer.
Pests and Diseases: Collar rot at soil level and on the roots when grown in too-wet soil.
Powdery mildew, especially on E. dulcis (particularly on E. dulcis ‘Chameleon’), E. ×martini,
and E. amygdaloides ‘Purpurea’.
Companions: Euphorbia characias stands alone or with large grasses and Helleborus arguti-
folius; E. schillingii, with helianthus, taller vernonicas, Geranium psilostemon, and G. ‘Ann
Folkard’; E. griffithii, with Geum ‘Borisii’, Geranium phaeum, hemerocallis, carex, and Iris
sibirica. Pair smaller varieties with heuchera and plantago and use as foreground plants in
rockeries.
Notes: Euphorbia characias is short-lived, which is why it self-sows (self-preservation); after
a few years leave a few seedlings or say good-bye. Look for its new variegated selection,
‘Tasmanian Tiger’. In the chart, the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
amygdaloides 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Greenish yellow Green with reddish Group 2, wood
bracts (E–M) stems, evergreen spurge, self-sows
a. ‘Purpurea’ (syn. 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Yellow-green bracts Burgundy aging to Group 2, redwood
‘Rubra’) (E–M) green, stems tinted with spurge, mildew
purplish red, evergreen prone, self-sows
a. var. robbiae 1–2ft × 2ft+ 5–9 Yellowish bracts Dark green rosettes, Group 2 or 3, good
(E–M) glossy, leathery for dry shade,
evergreen spreads by runners
and seed, RHS
Award

210 Euphorbia
USDA
Zone
a. ‘Variegata’ 16in × 16in 5–9 Cream bracts (E–M) Green with cream Group 2
margins, evergreen
characias 2½–3ft × 7–9 Lime-green to yellow Bluish green, evergreen Group 1, self-sows,
3–3½ft green bracts with drought tolerant
purple nectaries
(E–M)
c. ‘Canyon Creek’ 1½–2ft × 7–9 Golden yellow bracts Deep green, tinted red, Group 1, drought
3–3½ft (E–M) evergreen tolerant
c. subsp. characias 2½–3ft × 7–9 Acid-yellow bracts Bluish gray, evergreen Group 1, RHS Award
3–3½ft (E)
c. subsp. characias 2½–3ft × 3ft 7–9 Lime-green with red Bluish gray, evergreen Group 1, bushy,
‘Humpty Dumpty’ nectaries (E) compact
c. ‘Portuguese 2–2½ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Large, yellow-green Bluish gray with velvety Group 1, RHS Award
Velvet’ bracts (E–M) downy hairs, evergreen
c. subsp. wulfenii 3–4ft × 3–4ft 7–9 Yellow-green bracts Bluish green, leathery, Group 1, RHS Award
(E–M) evergreen
c. subsp. wulfenii 2–2½ft × 2ft 7–9 Cream variegated Edged in creamy white, Group 1
‘Emmer Green’ bracts (E–M) evergreen
c. subsp. wulfenii 3ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Bright yellow-green Bluish green, evergreen Group 1, RHS Award
‘John Tomlinson’ (E–M)
c. subsp. wulfenii 2½–3ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Golden yellow bracts Grayish to pale green, Group 1, bushy,
‘Lambrook Gold’ (E–M) evergreen compact, RHS
Award
corallioides 2–2½ft × 6–9 Lime-green with long Gray-green, pink-tinged Group 1, coral
2½ft yellow bracts (E–M) turning rusty red in spurge, self-sows,
autumn, deciduous short-lived or
biennial
cyparissias 8–12in × ∞ 3–8 Yellow-green (E–M) Feathery, needlelike, Group 1, cypress
bluish green, deciduous spurge, very
aggressive
c. ‘Fens Ruby’ (syn. 8–12in × ∞ 3–8 Yellow-green fading Emerging dark purplish Group 1, aggressive,
‘Purpurea’, ‘Clarice to orange (E–M) red turning bluish green, stoloniferous
Howard’) needlelike, deciduous
c. ‘Orange Man’ 10–15in × ∞ 3–8 Bright yellow turning Soft green, feathery, As above
orange (E–M) deciduous
dulcis 10–20in × 4–9 Yellowish (E–M) Green, deciduous Group 2, self-sows,
20in good autumn color
d. ‘Chameleon’ 1½–2ft × 4–9 Bright yellow with a Dark bronze-purple Group 2, self-sows,
1½ft+ purple tinge (E–M) with green tint, mildew prone
deciduous
griffithii 2½–3ft × 3ft+ 6–9 Orange-red (E–M) Green with pale pink Group 1, Griffith’s
midrib, reddish stems, spurge, good fall
deciduous color
g. ‘Dixter’ 2–3ft × 3ft+ 6–9 Orange (E–M) Dark green with red Group 1, spreads
flush, grayish pink quickly, RHS Award
beneath, deciduous
g. ‘Fern Cottage’ 2–3ft × 3ft+ 5–9 As above Green with reddish Group 1, good fall
margins, bronzy-pink color
tips, reddish stems,
deciduous

Euphorbia 211
USDA
Zone
g. ‘Fireglow’ 3ft × 3ft+ 5–9 Orange-red (M) Soft green, new growth Group 1, red fall
tinged red, red stems, color
deciduous
‘Jade Dragon’ 3–4ft × 3ft+ 6–9 Large, greenish Green, purple tint to Group 1
yellow bracts (E–M) new growth, evergreen
×martinii 2–3ft × 2–3ft 6–9 Large, greenish Grayish green with Group 2, RHS Award
yellow, red stems bronze-red tints,
(E–M) evergreen
×m. ‘Red Martin’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 6–9 Yellow-green (E–M) Green with purplish Group 2
red tints, velvety new
growth, evergreen
myrsinites 8–10in × 10in 5–9 Bright yellowish to Trailing, bluish green, Group 1, donkeytail
lime-green (E–M) evergreen spurge, short-lived,
self-sows, RHS
Award
nicaeensis 1½ft × 1½ft 6–9 Yellow-green (M) Grayish green with Group 1, Nice (as in
pinkish red stems, France) spurge
evergreen
palustris 3ft × 3ft 5–8 Dark yellow (E–M) Green, willowlike, turns Group 3, swamp
red in fall, deciduous spurge, for bogs and
water gardens, RHS
Award
polychroma (syn. 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Bright yellow (E–M) Pale green, good autumn Group 1 or 2,
epithymoides) color, deciduous cushion spurge,
short-lived in Pacific
Northwest, RHS
Award
p. ‘Candy’ (syn. 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Sulphur-yellow Green with purple Group 1 or 2, tidy
‘Purpurea’) bracts (E–M) flushed tips in spring, low mound
narrow, curvy edges
with bluish tint,
deciduous
p. ‘Midas’ 12–15in × 4–9 Bright golden yellow Bright green, good fall Group 1 or 2, early
1½ft (E) color, deciduous bloomer
rigida (syn. 1–2ft × 2ft 7–10 Bright yellow aging Fleshy blue-green, Group 1, semi-
biglandulosa) to orange (E–M) pointed, evergreen prostrate, early
bloomer
schillingii 3–4½ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Greenish yellow Soft green with pale Group 2 or 3, clump-
(M–L) green or white midribs, forming, erect, RHS
narrow, deciduous Award
seguieriana 20in × 24in 8–10 As above Bluish green, Group 1, spreading
semi-evergreen
s. subsp. niciciana 20in × 24in 8–10 As above Bluish green, As above
narrow, lanceolate,
semi-evergreen
sikkimensis 3–4ft × 3ft+ 6–9 As above Deep green fading to Group 2 or 3,
soft green, pinkish spreading but easy
midrib and veining, to manage, erect,
deciduous RHS Award
wallichii 2ft × 2ft 6–9 Greenish yellow (M) Dark green with white Group 1, erect
and reddish veins,
deciduous

212 Fallopia
Fallopia japonica var.

compacta ‘Milk Boy’.
FALLOPIA Polygonaceae
Personally, I would avoid the running forms of fallopia except for F. japonica var. compacta ‘Milk
Boy’, which is not as invasive as the others if grown in heavier soil (and which—never mind
its name—is not very compact). Its variegated foliage is lovely in low light (it is sure to burn in
sun), and the way the strange coral new growth comes out of the ground in spring is quite enter-
taining. Fallopia japonica ‘Crimson Beauty’, which also dies to the ground for the winter, is well
worth having if you can find the room: it easily reaches twelve feet at maturity. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: For Italian anatomist Gabriele Fallopio, for whom fallopian tubes are also
named.
Common Name: Japanese knotweed.
Origin: Japan, Korea, Taiwan, China.
USDA
Zone
japonica (syn. 4–8ft × 5ft 5–9 Small, white (L) Heart-shaped Running rootstock,
Polygonum listed as a weed of
cuspidatum) concern
j. var. compacta 2–3ft × 3ft+ 5–9 White turning deep Leathery green, good fall Crimson seedheads,
(syn. Polygonum pink (M–L) color, beet-red stems running rootstock
reynoutria)
j. var. compacta 3–4ft × 4ft+ 5–9 White (M–L) White-splashed green, Can burn even in
‘Milk Boy’ (syn. pink stems shade and may
‘Variegata’) revert, running
rootstock, not a
dense spreader
j. ‘Crimson Beauty’ 8–12ft × 5–6ft 5–9 White turning dark Green, celadon-green Spreads slowly
crimson (M–L) stems outward on all sides
212_242_TP.indd 212
Ferula 213
Preferred Conditions: Moist, average to poor soil.

Management: May require regular thinning-out and reduction of clump size to control inva-
sive habit. Cut to ground during the fall/winter cleanup. Control the spread by removal!
Propagation: Division in spring; seed and cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Leaf miner.
Companions: Eupatorium, dahlia, miscanthus, shrub roses, Hydrangea quercifolia, actaea; use
F. japonica var. compacta ‘Milk Boy’ as a variegated color echo.
Notes: Fallopia, persicaria, tovara, reynoutria, bistorta, and polygonum are confused in the trade.
FERULA Apiaceae
Ferula communis (giant fennel) is one of the most dramatic species in the carrot family. Its foliage
is similar to common fennel or dill, but on a much larger scale. It takes several years to develop
a crown and root system of sufficient size to send up a flowering stalk. Size will be affected by
the soil—in poor soil they will be shorter than the ten feet they can attain in ideal conditions.
The stalks can be used fresh, for the special effect of their rounded heads of greenish yellow
flowers, or in large dried flower arrangements. Plants can be monocarpic or perennial through
side shoots off the central crown. Seedheads are a dark nut-brown and persist well into fall for
an attractive autumn look in the border. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: The classical Latin word for a carrier or vehicle.

Common Name: Giant fennel, hog fennel.
Origin: Mediterranean, Central Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moisture-retentive, and well-cultivated with organic
material.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Only young plants; they have taproots.
Ferula communis.
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214 Filipendula
Management: To enhance the foliage, remove the flowering stems as soon as they show or
right after blooming. Cut to ground in fall/winter cleanup. The crown may require protec-
tion from winter cold and wet. Always leave any green leaves to turn color (yellow) in the
fall. This plant needs every bit of food to form a large-enough clump.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, snails, slugs, mildew.
Companions: Phormium, crocosmia, euphorbia, miscanthus, cortaderia.
Notes: This is a stand-alone plant for the back of the border.
USDA
Zone
communis (syn. 6–10ft × 6–9 Tiny, purple when Large, shiny, rich green, Size depends
‘Gigantea’) 2½–3ft young aging to finely cut, in a mound on location and
yellow, in umbels on 2ft wide and tall summer heat
a thick flower stalk
(E–M)
FILIPENDULA Rosaceae
Meadowsweet offers showy clusters of tiny flowers in shades of red, pink, or white; these are
borne in dense plumes at the end of strong, upright flower stems over a long season, beginning in
late spring for some forms. Foliage is light to dark green and pinnately compound with a palmate
terminal leaflet; it may start looking dreadful in the summer, with dried-up leaves, so cut it back to
the ground and a new crop of leaves will form, as long as plants are kept moist. All but F. vulgaris
prefer moist or even boggy conditions. Filipendula rubra and F. r. ‘Venusta’ run about a foot a year in
every direction. Filipendula vulgaris is even more of a spreader and can be a nuisance: it flops a bit
and may need support. You can solve this problem by growing it lean, in lighter soil and more sun.
Filipendula palmata.
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Filipendula 215
Filipendulas make a great cut for floral arrangements. Cut before the flowers have fully
opened. During the middle ages, F. vulgaris was scattered on the floors to alleviate bad odors,
and F. ulmaria is still used for its many medicinal qualities. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin filum (“thread”) and pendulus (“hanging”).
Common Name: Meadowsweet, dropwort.
Preferred Conditions: Moisture-retentive, well-drained, moderately fertile conditions (except
F. vulgaris).
Management: Mulch to keep roots cool. Keep well watered in dry conditions. If foliage starts
to look ratty, cut to the ground and new leaves will emerge as long as soil is moist. New
clumps spread rapidly and need frequent division to keep them from crowding out other
plants. Control spread by regular removal of runners.
Propagation: Division in spring, use the youngest pieces; seed in autumn outdoors, or root
cuttings.
Companions: Miscanthus, hardy lobelia, geranium, astilbe, astrantia, Iris sibirica, shrub roses,
persicaria; phlox for F. rubra ‘Venusta’.
Notes: In the chart, the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
Filipendula ulmaria ‘Aurea’ with a bright Geranium psilostemon and hemerocallis in bloom.

212_242_TP.indd 215 12/11/06 3:04:14 PM
216 Filipendula
USDA
Zone
‘Kakome’ 6–12in × 8in 4–9 Dark rose buds, Dark green, deeply Dwarf pink
opening to pink (M) divided, maplelike meadowsweet,
long-lasting
palmata 3–4ft × 3ft 3–9 Tiny, deep pink in Light green with woolly Siberian
bud, opening to pale white hairs beneath meadowsweet,
pink, fading to white clump-forming, no
(M) staking needed
purpurea 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Deep pink, paler with Large, bright green, Japanese
age, purple-red stems, deeply divided, forms meadowsweet, no
fragrant (M–L) big clumps staking needed, RHS
Award
p. ‘Elegans’ 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Large, white with red Green, finely cut Bronze-red
(syn. palmata stamens, fragrant (M) seedheads, more
‘Elegantissima’) compact
rubra 4–8ft × ∞ 3–9 Large, peach-pink Dark green, jagged, Long bloomer, needs
plumes on branching hairy beneath no support, runs
red stems, fragrant
(M)
r. ‘Venusta’ 4–6ft × ∞ 3–9 Deep rose to almost Large, green, toothed Martha Washington
(syn. ‘Venusta carmine-red, becomes plume, needs no
Magnifica’) paler as it ages, support, runs, RHS
fragrant (M–L) Award
ulmaria 3–6ft × 2ft 3–9 Creamy-white, Green, fernlike, rough Self-sows, thrives in
fragrant (E–L) on top and felty-white boggy areas
beneath
u. ‘Aurea’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 As above Emerge golden yellow, Does best in
turning pale green in shade, cut down in
summer, divided midsummer for fresh
autumn growth,
seeds don’t come
true
u. ‘Variegata’ (syn. 2½–4ft × 3–9 As above Green and creamy Prone to mildew,
alnifolia ‘Variegata’) 2ft yellow, may revert to may scorch in full
green sun
vulgaris (syn. 1–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Creamy-white, pink Dark green, lanceolate, Dropwort, likes drier
hexapetala) in bud, may be red- finely divided alkaline soil, full sun,
tinged on outside may need support,
(E–M) spreads
v. ‘Multiplex’ (syn. 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Small, double white, Deep green, finely Somewhat weedy,
‘Plena’, ‘Flore bronze buds (E–M) divided, fernlike may need support,
Pleno’) long-lasting, prone to
mildew
Perennials F-G_TP.indd 216 12/7/06 6:16:58 PM

Foeniculum 217
Foeniculum vulgare
‘Purpureum’.
FOENICULUM Apiaceae
Foeniculum vulgare ‘Purpureum’ (bronze fennel) is a noticeable presence in the border, providing
an attractive color and foliage contrast. Its coppery-purple leaves are finely divided and thread-
like; its tiny acid-yellow flowers are arranged in large flat umbels atop six-foot stems. Both are
aromatic. It is an herb with the same culinary and garden uses as the green type, F. vulgare, and
will self-sow just as enthusiastically.
Don’t confuse this plant with the annual vegetable, F. vulgare var. azoricum, grown for its
edible bulbous stem, although they do share a similar mildly sweet licorice flavor. Bronze fennel
can be used wherever dill is called for; both seeds and leaves are edible. Its chopped leaves are
excellent in soups, salads, and stews, and it even makes its way into breads, cakes, and scones.
Makes a nice garnish, too. Very attractive to bees and butterflies, and birds will eat the seeds in
the fall—but never enough of them. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin foenum (“hay”), a reference to the sweet smell.
Common Name: Bronze fennel, copper fennel.
Origin: Europe, Mediterranean.
Preferred Conditions: Any moist, well-drained soil. Tolerates drought because its roots run
deep.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut back before seed ripens to prevent self-sowing; a new tuft of fresh foliage
will be produced before the end of the season.
Propagation: Seed when ripe; the best-colored seedlings must be chosen. Do not plant candied
fennel seeds; it’s a waste of a good snack.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, snails, slugs.

218 Fragaria
Companions: Crocosmia, phlox, allium, nepeta, salvia, hemerocallis, phormium, canna, dahlia
(bronze-foliage forms), Miscanthus sinensis, Physocarpus opulifolius ‘Diabolo’, purple-leaf
barberries, euphorbia.
Notes: Medieval peasants hung fennel over doorways to ward off evil spirits. Don’t compost
the seedheads (which means don’t put the seedheads in your compost), and don’t plant the
green form in your garden: it self-sows infinitely.
USDA
Zone
vulgare 3–6ft × 3ft 4–10 Yellow-green from Purple-mahogany on Self-sows
‘Purpureum’ (syn. yellow buds (M–L) young foliage, aging to
‘Bronze’) bronze, and then green,
finely cut
FRAGARIA Rosaceae
Beware of these pretty little flowers! Some strawberries that are introduced into the garden are
there to stay, regardless of efforts to keep them under control. In my garden I treat them as weeds.
Although the strawberry makes an excellent groundcover, it’s not normally associated with peren-
nial borders. But even F. ×ananassa, the one cultivated for eating, has some ornamental forms. The
popular hybrids F. ×ananassa ‘Pink Panda’ and F. ‘Lipstick’ have numerous bright pink flowers that
bloom over a long period; their foliage is also quite nice, deep green, glossy, and evergreen. Fragaria
vesca (alpine strawberry), highly prized in Europe, has a brighter green leaf, white flowers, and
smaller, usually red fruit. Soak them in chenin blanc and weed until dark.
Strawberries are the classic crown specific plant. They must be planted with the soil level at
crown level; plant too deep or too shallow, and they will not bloom or bear fruit. One of the most
successful uses of strawberries is planted under blueberries or rhododendrons among lily of the
valley—thugs with thugs. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin fragans (“fragrance”), referring to the scent of the fruit.
Common Name: Strawberry, wild strawberry.
Origin: Europe, Asia, North America, Chile.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, not too wet or dry. Tolerates acidic
soils, but thrives in alkaline.
Light: Sun to part shade (except F. vesca, which will take shade).
Planting: Plant six to twelve inches apart and direct runners to fill in gaps, or plant a foot apart
(staggered).
Management: Pinching off runners in the first year promotes fruit production and helps create
larger, sturdier mother plants that will fill in quicker. Leaves may look ratty in the spring and
can be trimmed (or mowed) back; this also helps control disease. Cut down to the crown to
clean up (with F. vesca, cutting down to an inch or two is fine). Leave the healthy leaves of F.
×ananassa on over the winter.
Propagation: Seeds or division of youngest plantlets or offsets (runners root and produce
plantlets wherever they touch ground).
Pests and Diseases: Crown rot (especially in overly wet soil), powdery mildew, spider mites,
root weevils.
Companions: Hosta, astilbe, spring bulbs, heuchera, pulmonaria, bergenia.
Notes: Fragaria ×ananassa appreciates a mulch to help keep the fruit drier.

Fragaria 219
Fragaria ×ananassa ‘Pink Panda’.
USDA
Zone
×ananassa ‘Pink 4–6in × 10in+ 5–8 Bright rose-pink Deep green, glossy Seldom fruits,
Panda’ with yellow eye stoloniferous,
(E–L) vigorous
×a. ‘Red Ruby’ 4–6in × 10in+ 5–8 Deep rose, yellow As above Semi-evergreen,
eye (E–L) seldom fruits
×a. ‘Variegata’ 6–8in × 10in+ 5–8 White with yellow Creamy-white margin, Good fruit,
center (M) dark green center stoloniferous
‘Lipstick’ 4–8in × 10in+ 4–8 Deep red to fuchsia Deep green, glossy Small red fruits,
with yellow eye everbearing
(E–L)
vesca 6–12in × 12in 4–8 White, yellow eye Bright green, prominent Alpine strawberry,
(E–L) veins, compound with 3 small red fruit
leaflets
v. ‘Alexandra’ 6–12in × 12in 4–8 White (E–L) Bright green Everbearing
v. ‘Aurea’ 6–12in × 12in 4–8 As above Chartreuse Small red fruit
v. ‘Fructu Albo’ 6–12in × 12in 4–8 As above Bright green Small white fruit
v. ‘Rügen’ 6–12in × 12in 4–8 As above As above Small red fruit

220 Francoa
Francoa sonchifolia.
FRANCOA Saxifragaceae
Bridal wreath, as it’s commonly called, is a tender, short-lived evergreen perennial with broadly
lanceolate, deeply lobed leaves that form large basal rosettes; the delicate flowers are pale pink
or white with darker pink markings and borne on unbranched stems. The ratio of foliage vs.
flowers is a bit imbalanced in favor of the foliage. Still, plants are long-blooming and often culti-
vated for the cut flower business. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After sixteenth-century Spanish physician Francisco Franco.

Common Name: Bridal wreath.
Origin: Chile.
Preferred Conditions: Any good humus-rich, well-drained soil. Best in a warm, sheltered
location. Keep moist during the growing season. Drought tolerant once established.
Management: Cut off spent flowering stems (sets tons of very fine seed but rarely seeds about in
the garden). Remove leaves as they become unattractive and clean up the crowns in spring.
Pests and Diseases: The usual root weevil problem of the saxifrage family, as well as slugs,
snails, and cutworms.
Propagation: Divide in spring; seed in the spring.
Companions: Fuchsia, astilbe, hosta.
Notes: Doesn’t like wet winters or competition; if overgrown by its companions this plant will
surely disappear. In the maritime Northwest, it may be best used as a container plant.
USDA
Zone
ramosa 2½ft × 2½ft 7–9 Starry white, pink Pale green, shiny Graceful
stripe on each petal
(M)
sonchifolia 2–2½ft × 7–9 Pale pink with deep Dark green, hairy, wavy- Clumping and
2½ft pink spots at base, edged, stiff spreading
long-lasting (M)

Galega 221
Galega ×hartlandii
‘Lady Wilson’.
GALEGA Papilionaceae
In many places, G. officinalis (common goat’s rue) is considered a noxious weed. Galega ×hart-
landii, the species we are concerned with here, is not a problem: it is a short-lived, strong-growing
bushy perennial with pea flowers, usually blue, white, mauve, or bicolored, borne in racemes. Its
soft green leaves are pinnate, and some have a blue tinge. This long-flowering, heavy-blooming
plant will thrive almost anywhere there is sun. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek gala (“milk”); it was thought that if it was fed to goats, it
would improve their milk flow.
Common Name: Goat’s rue.
Origin: Europe, western Asia, East Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Moist and deeply tilled with organic matter, but will tolerate a wide
range, including poor soil.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant out when young.
Management: Does not like to be moved when mature. Cut to the ground once flowering is
complete to prevent self-seeding, if it is a problem. May need support. Cut back in the fall.
Rich soil might cause it to rapidly increase. Resents competition and overcrowding and
needs plenty of space; do not let it be overcome by other perennials.
Propagation: Seed (of species); crown division between autumn and spring.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, cutworms, mildew.
Companions: Paeonia, campanula, early aconitums, miscanthus, linum, Papaver rhoeas, linaria.

222 Galega
Galega ×hartlandii ‘Lady Wilson’ holding its own between Robinia pseudoacacia ‘Frisia’ and Aconitum lycoctonum
subsp. vulparia.
USDA
Zone
×hartlandii 3½–5ft × 3ft 3–9 Bicolored, blue-violet Soft green Good cut
and white (M)
×h. ‘Alba’ 3½–5ft × 3ft 3–9 Pure white (M) Green Long racemes, RHS
Award
×h. ‘His Majesty’ 4–5ft × 3ft 3–9 Bicolored, mauve- Soft green Erect,
pink and white, clump-forming
scented (M–L)
×h. ‘Lady Wilson’ 4–5ft × 3ft 3–9 Bicolored, mauve- As above Clump-forming,
pink and white, RHS Award
tinged with rose
(M–L)

Galtonia 223
Galtonia viridiflora.
GALTONIA Hyacinthaceae
Summer hyacinths are, as their name implies, large summer-blooming bulbous perennials that
look to some people like stretched hyacinths. Plants have large racemes of drooping or pendulous,
bell-shaped flowers, widely spaced on sturdy stems. The flowers also have a pleasant fragrance,
although scent, like color, can be very subjective. Galtonia is not a fussy plant: just plant it, feed
it, and enjoy it. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After British explorer and polymath Sir Francis Galton.
Common Name: Summer hyacinth.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, moist, well-drained soil, deeply cultivated with organic mate-
rial.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant six to nine inches deep and at least four inches apart in groups of a dozen or more.
Management: Does not like to be disturbed. Cut flower spikes after flowering to prevent self-
sowing. Don’t let it dry out in the growing season. Needs to be well fed to give its best flower
show. Staking should not be needed if planted in proper site. Use a heavy mulch in severe winters
but remove it in spring as soon as new growth begins and bait for slugs and snails. Galtonia will
deteriorate if closed in by neighboring plants. Cut to the ground when foliage has cured.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe (keep seedlings frost-free for first two years). Detach small
bulbs in spring and replant.
Companions: Rudbeckia occidentalis ‘Green Wizard’, helianthus, monarda, ornamental grasses,
iris, Nicotiana langsdorfii, N. ‘Lime Green’, Pelargonium sidoides; the summer border.
USDA
Zone
candicans 2–4ft × 1ft 7–10 Pure creamy-white, Gray-green, lanceolate, Good
drooping bells with dark fleshy, 2–2½ft long seedheads, RHS
stamens, fragrant (M) Award
viridiflora 2–3ft × 1ft 7–10 Pale lime-green, nodding, Gray-green, lanceolate, A beefier-
bell-shaped, petals more 2ft long looking plant
pointed, scented (M)

212_242_TP.indd 223 12/11/06 3:06:07 PM
224 Gaura
Gaura lindheimeri
‘Siskiyou Pink’.
GAURA Onagraceae
This is a native North American genus of charming and graceful perennials. Plants are vase-
shaped and multistemmed, growing up to four feet by the end of the summer. The long-blooming
delicate flowers have reflexed petals and prominent stamens and are held directly on the stems.
The flowers of G. lindheimeri open white and fade to pale pink; the bright pink flowers of its
selection, ‘Siskiyou Pink’, were brought to us courtesy of the Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery. Other
selections and hybrids, some more compact, have since appeared on the market.~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek gauros (“superb”), a reference to the flowers.
Common Name: Beeblossom.
Origin: Southern and southwestern United States, Mexico, Central and South America.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moist (not too wet or too heavy) soil, preferably lean. Can
take neglect. Tolerates drought once established.
Light: Sun.
Management: Remove spent flowering spikes, and flowering will continue. Cut back to eight
inches midseason of the second year to encourage a fuller growth. Cut back during the
fall/winter cleanup, but not too hard. May need winter protection such as a mulch, but not
against the crown.
Propagation: Seed—sow early; softwood cuttings in spring or late summer; semi-ripe heel
cuttings; division is not recommended.
Pests and Diseases: Rust, snails, slugs.
Companions: Tuck in among stronger plants; plant in front of a dark background, sedums,
grasses, nepeta, iris, oenothera, oregano; admirably used in full-sun parking strips here in
the Pacific Northwest.
Notes: Short-lived in heavy soil in the maritime Northwest, but it will give you everything it’s
got for its brief life. We often use it as an annual; it is worth replanting on a regular basis.
Dark spots on foliage are probably an inherent aspect (perhaps a virus); they are not a
problem but rather an additional attractive foliar component.

Gaura 225
Gaura lindheimeri ‘Whirling Butterflies’, backed by a spiky cordyline, with Nepeta sibirica, ‘Tutti-frutti’ agastache,
and the foliage of euphorbia and bergenia. Design by Withey/Price.
USDA
Zone
lindheimeri 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Pinkish white buds, Gray-green, hairy, Bushy, erect stems,
opening to white, spoon-shaped to graceful, RHS Award
fading to pale pink, lanceolate
long stamens (M–L)
l. ‘Corrie’s Gold’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 White, from pink Green, cream- and Less hardy than
buds (M–L) gold-margined species
l. ‘Crimson 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Hot pink on red Dark crimson Very compact
Butterflies’ stems (M–L)
l. ‘Franz Valley’ 1½–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 White, very small, Gray-green, smaller and Compact, spreading
fragrant (M–L) finer
l. ‘Passionate Pink’ 2½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pink (M–L) Red-green More compact and
upright
l. ‘Siskiyou Pink’ 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Maroon buds, Dark green, mottled From Siskiyou Rare
opening bright pink, maroon Plant Nursery
changing to deep rich
rose (M–L)
l. ‘Whirling 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Larger, pure white Gray-green, willowy Much like the
Butterflies’ with pinkish tinge, species but may be
fading to rosy-pink, more compact
red stems (M–L)

212_242_TP.indd 225 12/11/06 3:06:15 PM
226 Gentiana
Gentiana lutea.
GENTIANA Gentianaceae
A large genus of annual, biennial, and perennial plants, many suitable for the rock garden. We
include here only the three species of gentians that work well for us in the border; G. asclepi-
adea in particular, with its willowlike leaves and arching stems holding deep to light blue and
white blossoms, is one of the finest flowers for the fall shade border. Gentians are long-lived
once established and make a good cut flower for large floral arrangements, if you can stand to
cut them. Although these plants are poisonous to cattle, their fleshy roots are used in distilling
liquor. ~ Susan Carter
USDA
Zone
asclepiadea 1½–3ft × 3ft 6–9 Variable, dark Green, willow-shaped, Willow gentian,
blue, white, pink, on long, arching stems clump-forming,
light blue, some long-blooming, RHS
with white throat, Award
out-facing, trumpet-
shaped (M–L)
a. var. alba 1–2ft × 3ft 6–9 White with green- As above White willow
tinge in throat (M–L) gentian
lutea 3–5ft × 2ft 6–9 Pale yellow, enclosed Blue-green, smooth, Felwort, bitterwort,
in a cupped green pleated upright, good cut,
bract, starry, tubular attractive seedheads
(M)
triflora 1½ft × 1ft 5–8 Deep blue to purple- Mid-green, narrow,
blue, streaked white lanceolate, glossy, on
outside, narrow, bell- erect stems
shaped (L)

Geranium 227
Scientific Name: After Gentius, king of Illyria.

Common Name: Gentian.
Origin: Central Europe, North America, China, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, humus-rich, moist, cool, and (except G. lutea) lime-free.
Light: Part shade for G. asclepiadea and G. triflora; sun for G. lutea.
Management: Don’t allow gentians to dry out during the growing season. Cut back in fall/
winter cleanup or when the foliage turns brown, although dead stems can be attractive
throughout winter. If left on in winter, remove stems before new growth in spring. Top-
dress with organic matter in winter or early spring. Resents disturbance.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, especially on emerging growth.
Propagation: Seed of species in containers in a cold frame when ripe; plant offsets in the
spring; dislikes division.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, hakonechloa, pulmonaria, astrantia, geranium, hydrangea, rodgersia.
Notes: Usually available as little plants; don’t hesitate to try them.
GERANIUM Geraniaceae
How many hardy geraniums do you need to have? We have found it difficult to limit our choices,
as so many of these praiseworthy plants can be used throughout the garden, in a variety of condi-
tions and microclimates. It’s no wonder they are considered the perfect plant—somewhere, they
are! Diversity of flower color and leaf shape and ease of care are only some of their qualities.
Many geraniums work well in the border as filler plants, while others do great in rockeries or
as edgers, groundcovers, or focal points. They are great companions to such plants as old roses,
grasses, iris, and spring bulbs.
Geraniums bloom in shades of white, pink, blue, violet, purple, and magenta. Some, such as
the G. himalayense cultivars, bloom over a long season from spring through autumn. Many are
grown as much for their foliage as for their flowers. The large, deeply cut dark green leaves of
G. ×magnificum look fresh and bold among other plants. The chartreuse leaves of G. ‘Ann Folkard’
are quite exceptional against its magenta flowers. Geranium phaeum var. phaeum ‘Samobor’, a
striking foliage plant, has large, green leaves with a prominent purplish brown zone.
Most will grow in any fertile soil, in full sun to part shade. Some will benefit from being cut
back after the first bloom and then will produce a fresh crop of leaves (see chart). Cutting back
will also help to reduce the self-sowing of the more prolific ones: three of these, G. endressii,
G. ×oxonianum, and G. ×oxonianum f. thurstonianum, can be floppy and also seed about very
aggressively; some authorities recommend not including them in the garden at all.
Geraniums rank at the top in our pursuit of the perfect plant. There are many to experiment
with, and new ones appear on the market every day. Bet you can’t have just one! ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek geranos (“crane”); the fruit of the plant resembles the head
and beak of a crane.
Common Name: Hardy geranium, cranesbill.
Origin: Temperate regions, mostly Europe and Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Adaptable to a wide range. Most enjoy well-drained, acid to alkaline
soil that is not too wet. Drought tolerant once established.
Light: Sun to part shade. Some varieties ( G. macrorrhizum, G. maculatum, G. phaeum, to name
a few) take shade well.
Management: Cut back certain forms (see chart) after flowering to give a second crop of
flowers. Given the invasive nature of some species, careful attention must be given to

228 Geranium
Geranium ×magnificum and G. ×oxonianum with Alchemilla mollis, Epilobium angustifolium var. album, and a
scrim of purple penstemon.
Geranium pyrenaicum
‘Bill Wallis’.

Geranium 229
controlling self-seeding: if you wait until flowering slows with G. endressii,

G. ×oxonianum, and their kin, it will be too late—they will already have self-sowed and still
be in flower.
Propagation: Divide in spring, cuttings from side shoots; seed is hard to collect but many will
come true from seed; sterile forms can be propagated by root cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Geranium pratense and its varieties are subject to mildew and cutworms,
but most geraniums are trouble-free plants.
Companions: Depends on the specific geranium. The larger ones are a good cover for spring
bulb foliage as it cures; the smaller varieties can be used in the rock garden or foreground
of the perennial border. Geranium phaeum, G. wlassovianum, G. pratense, and G. ‘Nimbus’
do well in the summer border; pair them with hemerocallis, geum, crocosmia, euphorbia,
delphinium, anthriscus, helenium, heliopsis. Geranium ×cantabrigiense grows well over
stone to soften edges; pair with dicentra and cyclamen. Pair G. ×riversleaianum ‘Mavis
Simpson’ with astilbe, Lathyrus vernus, chaerophyllum, and Euphorbia characias ‘Portuguese
Velvet’. Try G. psilostemon with acanthus, helianthus, paeonia, aconitum, and taller astilbes.
Notes: In the chart, CBAF = cut back after flowering.
USDA
Zone
‘Anne Thomson’ 18–24in × 5–9 Gentler magenta Green More compact than
24in with black eye and but similar to ‘Ann
purple veins (M–L) Folkard, difficult to
propagate, sun to
part shade
‘Ann Folkard’ 18–48in × 5–9 Rich magenta with Chartreuse in spring, Sterile, difficult to
36in black eye and black greener in summer, propagate, heavy
veins, saucer-shaped toothed lobes bloomer, sun to part
(M–L) shade, scrambling,
RHS Award
×antipodeum 8–10in × 12in 7–9 Pale pink (M–L) Light gray-green to Trailing, sun to part
‘Stanhoe’ pinkish brown, roundish shade, edge plant
‘Brookside’ 12–24in × 5–7 Deep blue, paler at Green, finely cut, Vigorous, sun,
24in center, fine violet- roundish form propagate by
blue veins (E–M) division
×cantabrigiense 8–12in × 24in 4–9 Bright pink (E–M) Green, glossy, good Sterile, sun,
fall color (red), lobed, floriferous
aromatic, evergreen
×c. ‘Biokovo’ 8–12in × 4–9 White with pink Mid-green, glossy, Less vigorous, sun to
24in+ tinge, pink in bud aromatic, good fall color, part shade
(E–L) evergreen
×c. ‘Cambridge’ 8–10in × 4–9 Light blue-pink Glossy green, evergreen Sun to part shade,
24in+ (E–L) drought tolerant
×c. ‘Karmina’ 6–8in × 24in 4–9 Dark magenta-pink Dark green, aromatic, Sun to part shade
(E–L) evergreen
×c. ‘St. Ola’ 6in × 24in 4–9 Creamy-white, fades Green, glossy, evergreen Sterile, sun to part
to a pale pink (E–L) shade, vigorous
cinereum 6–8in × 12in 4–9 Lavender-pink with Grayish green, scalloped Rock garden plant,
‘Ballerina’ darker center and edge sun, RHS Award
veins (E–L)

230 Geranium
USDA
Zone
c. ‘Laurence 6–8in × 12in 5–9 Rose-purple with As above Rock garden plant,
Flatman’ dark purple veins sun
and blotches (E–L)
clarkei ‘Kashmir 12–24in × 4–9 Deep violet-purple Mid-green, deeply cut Rhizomatous, part
Purple’ 24in+ with pink veins, large sun, CBAF
(M)
c. ‘Kashmir White’ 12–18in × 4–9 Large, white with As above Rhizomatous, part
24in+ pale lilac veins, sun, CBAF, RHS
saucer-shaped (E–M) Award
dalmaticum 4–6in × 20in 4–9 Clear shell-pink Green, glossy, deeply Dwarf cranesbill,
(E–M) lobed, serrated edge, evergreen, sun, RHS
aromatic, red in fall Award
d. ‘Album’ 5in × 18in 4–9 White with pink Green, glossy, aromatic Rare, evergreen,
flush (E) lacks vigor, sun
‘Dilys’ 9in × 24in 4–9 Light magenta with Green, deeply dissected Sun to part shade,
red veins and darker trailing
eye (M–L)
endressii 12–18in × 18in 3–9 Warm pink, notched Mid-green, deeply cut, Vigorous, self-sows,
petals, funnel-shaped toothed, semi-evergreen CBAF, rhizomatous,
(E–L) sun to shade, RHS
Award
e. ‘Wargrave Pink’ 12–18in × 18in 3–9 Soft salmon-pink, Mid-green, deeply cut, As above, RHS
constant bloomer toothed Award
(E–L)
‘Francis Grate’ 18–24in × 7–9 Pale mauve (M) Gray-green, silver Hardy, sun, similar
24in beneath, deeply cut to G. incanum,
spreads
himalayense 12–18in × 5–9 Deep violet-blue Mid-green, finely cut, Rhizomatous, part
18in+ with red veins, red- large, rounded, good fall sun to shade, CBAF
blue center, saucer- reddish color
shaped (M–L)
h. ‘Gravetye’ 15in × 15in 5–9 Purplish blue with Mid-green, deeply cut, Long-blooming,
red eye, large (M–L) good fall color part sun to shade,
spreading but more
compact, RHS
Award
h. ‘Irish Blue’ 15in × 15in 5–9 Pale blue to pinkish Mid-green, finely cut, Vigorous, free-
with darker veins good fall color flowering over a long
and central red zone, period, part sun to
large (M) shade
h. ‘Plenum’ (syn. 12–18in × 5–9 Double violet, tinged Mid-green, small, Sterile, sun, shy and
‘Birch Double’) 18in+ pink (M) rounded, deeply divided, slow, smaller but
good fall color heavier leaves
incanum ‘Sugar 8in × 12in+ 8–9 Ruby-red (E–L) Gray-green, gray Short-lived, sun,
Plum’ beneath, very dissected, crowns tend to rot
aromatic out in wet soil
‘Ivan’ 24in × 24in 5–6 Magenta with black Mid-green, large, lobed Sun
veins and eye (M–L)

Geranium 231
USDA
Zone
‘Johnson’s Blue’ 12–18in × 5–9 Lavender-blue with Mid-green, slight gray Sterile, spreads,
18in+ reddish veins (E–L) tinge, finely cut, reddish rhizomatous, sun,
at base several forms are
sold, RHS Award
‘Kashmir Blue’ 12–30in × 5–9 Soft pale blue (M) Green, deeply cut Rhizomatous but
24in+ slow about it, sun to
part shade, CBAF
macrorrhizum 8–10in × 4–9 Light magenta to Light green, slightly Bigroot geranium,
24in+ pink, reddish brown hairy, rounded, broad, sun to shade, dry
sepals (E–L) sticky, aromatic, red in conditions
fall, semi-evergreen
m. ‘Album’ 8–10in × 24in 4–9 White, flushed pale As above Sun to shade, dry
pink with rose-red conditions, RHS
stamens and pink Award
calyx, pink buds
(M–L)
m. ‘Bevan’s Variety’ 8–10in × 24in 4–9 Deep magenta with Mid-green, aromatic, Sun to shade
deep red sepals (E–L) good fall color,
semi-evergreen
m. ‘Ingwersen’s 8–10in × 24in 4–9 Soft pink (E–L) Large, light green, Sun to shade, RHS
Variety’ rounded and lobed, Award
sticky, aromatic,
good fall color,
semi-evergreen
m. ‘Pindus’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Bright magenta Green, no scent, smaller Spreads well, sun to
(M–L) leaf shade
m. ‘Spessart’ 12in × 24in 4–9 White with pink Mid-green, rounded, Sun to shade
stamens (E–M) lobed, slightly hairy,
scented, semi-evergreen
m. ‘Variegatum’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Bright magenta Grayish green, splashed Very slow to
(E–M) with cream and pinkish increase, needs sun
tints, aromatic and moisture
maculatum 15–26in × 18in 3–8 Pale to deep pink or Mid-green, lobed, East Coast woodland
blue-pink, clusters toothed, shiny native, shade to sun,
(E–M) moist, CBAF
m. f. albiflorum 18–24in × 18in 3–8 White (E–M) Good dark green for a Shade, CBAF
white-flowering plant
m. ‘Chatto’ 18–24in × 18in 3–8 Large pale violet-blue Dark green, deeply As above
with purple veins divided, quilted
(E–M)
m. ‘Elizabeth Ann’ 18–24in × 18in 3–8 Lilac-pink (E–M) Dark greenish brown, Stunning leaf color,
green veins shade, CBAF
×magnificum 18–24in × 5–9 Large violet-blue Dark green, rounded, Sterile, a bold plant,
24in with dark veins hairy, deeply cut spreads, sun, CBAF,
(E–M) RHS Award
malviflorum 12–18in × 7–8 Violet-blue with dark Green, deeply divided Summer dormant,
18in+ veins, large (E) tuberous, sun

232 Geranium
USDA
Zone
×monacense 18–24in × 4–9 Purplish pink with Green, blotched with Good for shade
24in central white zone, reddish brown
petals reflexed (E–M)
×m. var. monacense 15in × 20in 4–9 Maroon fading to Green with purplish Sun to shade,
‘Muldoon’ violet, reflexed (E–L) brown blotches drought tolerant
‘Nimbus’ 10–24in × 5–9 Lavender-blue, light Very finely cut, green CBAF, vigorous,
24in center and dark veins with golden tinge when self-sows, sun, RHS
(E–M) young Award
nodosum 8–10in × 12in 4–8 Pink to lavender and Dark green, glossy, Shade, spreads by
its shades, variable 3-lobed seed and rhizomes,
from seed (M) aggressive
orientalitibeticum 8–12in × 12in+ 5–9 Deep pink with pale Light green, marbled Sun to part shade,
central zone (M) yellow-green, small tuberous, spreads
×oxonianum 24–30in × 4–9 Various pink shades Mid-green, glossy, faintly Vigorous, sun to
24in with dark veins (E–L) blotched shade, CBAF, all
forms, to prevent
self-sowing
×o. ‘A. T. Johnson’ 15–18in × 24in 5–8 Light silvery-pink, Mid-green, finely Sun to shade,
translucent (E–L) toothed compact, CBAF, RHS
Award
×o. ‘Bressingham’s 16in × 24in 5–8 Soft pink, darker pink Light green, finely Sun to shade, CBAF
Delight’ veins (E–L) toothed
×o. ‘Claridge Druce’ 18–24in × 4–8 Deep rosy-pink with Grayish green, glossy, Vigorous, sun to
24in darker veins (E–L) divided, semi-evergreen shade, self-sows,
CBAF
×o. ‘Katherine 15–20in × 5–9 Pale silvery-pink with Mid-green with Varies greatly in
Adele’ 24in purple veins (E–L) brownish central zone seedlings, sun to
shade, CBAF
×o. ‘Phoebe Noble’ 18in × 24in 5–9 Dark pink with As above Sun to shade, CBAF
darker veins, notched
petals (E–L)
×o. ‘Rose Clair’ 15–18in × 24in 5–9 Rosy-pink aging to As above Long-blooming, sun
deep pink (E–L) to shade, CBAF
×o. f. thurstonianum 18–24in × 5–9 Bright reddish purple Mid to dark green, Sun to shade, self-
24in+ with white base, blotched purplish brown sows, CBAF
magenta veins (E–L)
×o. f. thurstonianum 12–15in × 24in 5–9 Deep salmon-pink, Mid-green with Less vigorous, sun to
‘Southcombe often with petaloid brownish central zone shade, CBAF
Double’ stamens that make
flowers appear
double (E–M)
×o. f. thurstonianum 15–18in × 24in 5–9 Bluish pink magenta As above Sun to shade, CBAF
‘Southcombe Star’ veins, narrow petals
(E–L)
×o. ‘Walter’s Gift’ 15–24in × 5–9 Pale pink with dark Green, zoned in bronze As above
24in lavender veins (E–M) and purple
‘Patricia’ 24–30in × 4–8 Magenta, with dark Mid-green, deeply cut, Sun to part shade
18–24in eye (M–L) large

Geranium 233
USDA
Zone
phaeum 18–30in × 18in 3–9 Dark purple-maroon, Mid-green, finely Mourning widow,
reflexed petals, toothed, often spotted shade to sun, clump-
nodding (E–L) or banded purplish or forming, CBAF
brown
p. ‘Album’ 18–24in × 18in 3–9 White, reflexed, As above but more subtly Needs a bit more
nodding (E–L) spotted or banded moisture, less clump-
forming, CBAF,
shade to part sun
p. ‘Lily Lovell’ 18–24in × 18in 3–9 Purplish with purple Light green, no blotches CBAF, shade to part
veins and white eye, sun
nodding, reflexed,
large (E–L)
p. var. lividum ‘Joan 18–36in × 18in 3–9 Pale lavender with Mid-green, finely As above
Baker’ darker ring near toothed, often spotted
the center, nodding, or banded purplish or
reflexed (E–L) brown
p. var. phaeum 15–18in × 18in 3–9 Lighter maroon, with Light green, no blotches As above
brown veins, maroon
stems, white eye
(E–L)
p. var. phaeum 15–18in × 18in 3–9 Dark maroon, Large, deep green, with Sun to part shade,
‘Samobor’ reflexed, nodding purplish brown zone comes true from
(E–L) seed, CBAF
p. ‘Taff’s Jester’ 15–18in × 12in 3–9 Dark purple-maroon Green splashed with Variegation tones are
(E–L) yellow-green and less in summer, best
blotched dull purple in in shade CBAF
leaf notches
p. ‘Variegatum’ 18–24in × 12in 3–9 Dark purple-maroon, Green splashed with Variegation improves
reflexed, white eye sage-green and cream, in summer shade,
(E–L) red blotches CBAF
‘Philippe Vapelle’ 10–15in × 12in 4–8 Large bluish purple Soft blue-gray, quilted, Sun, G. renardii
with dark veins (E) deeply notched hybrid
pratense 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Large bluish purple, Mid-green, serrated Meadow cranesbill,
veined (E–M) sun, CBAF, dwindles
with competition
p. ‘Mrs. Kendall 2–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Light violet-blue with Green, deeply cut May rebloom in fall,
Clark’ white veins (E–M) sun to part shade,
CBAF, RHS Award
p. ‘Plenum 18–24in × 3–8 Double light Dark green, finely cut Sun, moist, doubles
Caeruleum’ 24in lavender-blue, are not cut back
flushed pink (M)
p. ‘Plenum 18–24in × 3–8 Double, rich violet As above Sun, doubles are not
Violaceum’ 24in pompoms, perfectly cut back, RHS Award
formed (M)
p. ‘Striatum’ (syn. 12–20in × 18in 3–8 White, blue-speckled Green Sun to part shade,
‘Splish Splash’) and -splashed (M) CBAF, good foliage
plant

234 Geranium
USDA
Zone
p. ‘Victor Reiter’ 15in × 15in 5–9 Rich deep blue-violet Purple fading to purplish May be short-
(E–M) green, deeply cut lived and resents
competition, CBAF,
sun
psilostemon 2–4ft × 3ft 4–9 Magenta with black Mid-green, large, deeply Variable from seed,
eye and veins (M) cut, sharply toothed, CBAF, sun, RHS
good fall color Award
p. ‘Bressingham 2–3ft × 3ft 4–9 Softer magenta with As above Very similar to
Flair’ maroon veins and species, more
blotch (M) compact, sun, CBAF
pyrenaicum ‘Bill 12–16in × 12in 5–9 Intense violet-purple, Small, green, round, Sun, self-sows
Wallis’ dark red stems (E–L) deeply cut politely, short-lived,
CBAF
renardii 10–12in × 12in 5–8 White with purple Soft sage-green, Sun, evergreen, RHS
veins, hint of pale corrugated, velvety, Award
lavender (E) round
×riversleaianum 10–15in × 36in 8–9 Shell-pink with silver Soft gray-green Sun, short-lived,
‘Mavis Simpson’ sheen, darker veins, wide-spreading, long
trailing stems (E–L) bloomer
×r. ‘Russell 10–15in × 36in 8–9 Rich magenta-pink Gray-green, broadly Long bloomer,
Prichard’ with black eye and lobed spreads, sun, short-
veins (E–L) lived, RHS Award
robustum 2–3ft × 2ft 8+ Pale purple (M) Gray-green, silvery Tender, tall, and
backed, dissected ungainly, sun
‘Salome’ 10–12in × 36in 5–9 Light violet-lavender, Chartreuse, marbled Clump-forming
maroon veins and very slightly but rambles, long-
dark central zone, blooming, sun
large (M–L)
sanguineum 10–12in × 12in 3–8 Magenta, saucer- Small, green, deeply Bloody cranesbill,
shaped (E–L) divided, good fall color self-sows, sun
s. ‘Alan Bloom’ 10–12in × 12in 3–9 Bright pink (E–L) Green, deeply divided, Long-blooming, sun
good fall color
s. ‘Album’ 12–18in × 12in 4–8 White with pink As above Sun, sprawling, RHS
veins (E–L) Award
s. ‘Alpenglow’ 12–18in × 12in 4–9 Rose-red magenta Dark green, deeply lobed More compact, sun
(E–M)
s. ‘Ankum’s Pride’ 6–15in × 15in 4–9 Bright pink with dark Mid-green, divided Sun
veins (E–M)
s. ‘Cedric Morris’ 18–24in × 12in 4–9 Magenta-pink, red Dark green, divided As above
veins (E–L)
s. ‘John Elsley’ 12–18in × 15in 4–9 Purplish blue, darker Rich green Trailing growth
veins (E–L) habit, long season,
sun
s. ‘Max Frei’ 6–10in × 12in 4–9 Magenta, saucer- Dark green, deeply Sun to part shade,
shaped (E–M) lobed, fall color compact
s. ‘New Hampshire 12–24in × 15in 4–9 Reddish purple, Mid-green, reddish tints Long-blooming, sun
Purple’ magenta veins (E–L) in fall

Geranium 235
USDA
Zone
s. ‘Shephard’s 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Dark reddish pink, Dark green Slow to increase,
Warning’ notched (E–M) difficult to
propagate, sun, RHS
Award
s. var. striatum (syn. 6–10in × 12in 4–9 Light pink, deep pink Deep green, deeply cut, Sun to part shade,
var. lancastriense) veins (E–L) good fall color drought tolerant,
RHS Award
subcaulescens 6–9in × 8in 4–10 Magenta-red with Gray-green, small, Sun, RHS Award
black center and scalloped edge
veins, black stigma
and anthers (E–M)
s. ‘Giuseppii’ 8–10in × 12in 5–9 Magenta with dark Grayish green Vigorous, sun
veins (E–L)
s. ‘Splendens’ 4–6in × 6in 5–9 Bright magenta, dark Grayish green, shallowly Not as robust as
center (E–L) lobed the species, more
compact, sun, RHS
Award
sylvaticum 18–28in × 5–9 White, pink, or Mid-green, divided Wood cranesbill,
24in purple with white part shade to sun,
center, saucer-shaped moist
(E–M)
s. ‘Album’ 18–28in × 5–9 Large, white with As above Comes true from
24in translucent veins seed, shade to sun,
(E–M) RHS Award
s. ‘Amy Doncaster’ 18–28in × 5–9 Deep violet-blue with As above Shade to sun
24in white eye (E–M)
s. ‘Mayflower’ 18–28in × 5–9 Large rich violet-blue Mid-green, lobed, Shade lover, RHS
24in with white center broadly divided Award
(E–M)
s. ‘Silva’ 18in × 18in 5–9 Bluish purple with Dark green, sharply Sun to shade
white eye (E–M) divided
tuberosum 9in × 12in 7–9 Rosy-lilac fading to Green, finely cut, Summer dormant,
cool lilac with darker feathery tuberous, sun in
veins (E–M) spring
versicolor 15in × 18in 5–9 White with magenta Pale green, hairy, Self-sows, sun
veins, trumpet- toothed
shaped, notched
petals (E–L)
wallichianum 10–12in × 5–8 Purple, white eye and Dusky mid-green, Drought tolerant,
24in+ deep purple veins trailing stems spreads, sun
(E–M)
w. ‘Buxton’s 10–12in × 5–8 Violet-blue with pink Dusky mid-green, Collect seed all
Variety’ 24in+ center, later flowers deeply cut season as heads
clear blue and white brown, sun to part
eye (M–L) shade, RHS Award
wlassovianum 18–24in × 4–9 Purplish violet, Velvety green with Sun to part shade
24in darker veins (M–L) brown band, variably
good fall color

236 Geum
GEUM Rosaceae
Looking for something bright? Try one of the geums. These

long-blooming members of the rose family will reward you
with flowers in shades of orange, yellow, scarlet, copper,
or pink. They are single, semi-double or double, cup- or
bell-shaped; some are up-facing while others nod. Geum
rivale and G. triflorum have interesting fluffy seedheads.
Foliage varies from dark to bright green or gray-green, and
is usually hairy and wrinkled; leaves are pinnate with a
terminal leaflet usually larger, scalloped and toothed, and
sometimes actually divided into three. Plants form a low,
basal mound. Geums hate cold, wet winters and will die in
winter in waterlogged soil. To use cut, pick when flowers
are just half open. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name for this plant.

Common Name: Avens.
Origin: Temperate regions of Europe, Asia, North and
South America, South Africa, New Zealand.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, well-drained, average soil.
Doesn’t like to dry out.
Management: The seed-grown varieties and most of the
newer cultivars will repeat bloom if old flower stems
are regularly removed. Remove dead lower leaves regu-
larly as well. Taller cultivars may need support. Geums
can become congested and do best when divided every
two or three years; late spring is a good time for this.
Geum ‘Coppertone’.
Throw away the old woody growth and replant the
fresh young growth.
Propagation: Seed (species) when ripe, or division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Downy mildew, fungal leaf spot, powdery mildew, spider mites, some
problem with root weevil.
Companions: Alchemilla mollis, Geranium ‘Johnson’s Blue’, Oenothera fruticosa ‘Fyrverkeri’,
Iris sibirica, salvia (blue or purple cultivars), smaller grasses, heuchera, potentilla, achillea,
carex.

Geum 237
USDA
Zone
‘Borisii’ 10–12in × 12in 5–9 Orange, up-facing, Mid-green, hairy, Clump-forming
cup-shaped (E–M) rounded, pinnate
chiloense (syn. 16–24in × 18in 5–9 Scarlet, single or Pale green, hairy, Clump-forming,
coccineum, double, up-facing pinnate repeats in fall, needs
quellyon) (E–M) annual division
‘Coppertone’ 10–12in × 10in 5–9 Copper-apricot, wavy Mid-green, toothed, A very charming
petals, reddish brown pinnate color, a G. rivale
sepals, brown stems, hybrid but stays
slightly pendent smaller
(E–M)
‘Fire Opal’ 12–30in × 12in 5–9 Reddish orange, As above RHS Award
single, semi-double,
dark purple stems
(E–M)
‘Georgenburg’ 10–12in × 10in 5–9 Light yellow-orange, Bright green, pinnate Pinkish buff
single, red stems seedheads
(E–M)
‘Lady Stratheden’ 24in × 24in 5–9 Soft, rich yellow, Mid-green, hairy, Comes true from
(syn. ‘Goldball’) semi-double, cup- pinnate to ovate seed, short-lived,
shaped (E–M) RHS Award
‘Lemon Drops’ 12–14in × 12in 5–9 Pale yellow, pendent, Bright green, pinnate G. rivale hybrid
orange stamens
(E–M)
‘Lionel Cox’ 12in × 12in+ 5–9 Pale yellow, pendent, As above As above
dark stems (M)
‘Mrs. J. Bradshaw’ 16–24in × 5–9 Scarlet, semi-double Bright green, hairy, Comes true from
(syn. ‘Feuerball’) 24in to double (E–M) pinnate seed, clump-forming,
short-lived, RHS
Award
‘Red Wings’ 16–24in × 12in 5–9 Scarlet-orange, semi- As above
double (E–M)
rivale 12–24in × 5–9 Dusky pink, red- Dark green, dense, Water avens, Indian
18–24in brown sepals, hairy, toothed, pinnate, chocolate, likes it cool
nodding, bell-shaped leaflets very small and moist
(E–M)
r. ‘Leonard’s 12–18in × 18in 5–9 Pale apricot, Dark green, pinnate
Variety’ double, bell-shaped,
mahogany stems,
nodding (M)
‘Starker’s 15–18in × 18in 5–9 Apricot, double Mid-green, pinnate Long-blooming,
Magnificum’ (E–M) short-lived
triflorum 10–16in × 12in 3–9 Light maroon to Gray-green, silky, Prairie smoke, clump-
almost yellow, pinnate, hairy, many forming, North
nodding, bell-shaped leaflets American native
(E–M)

238 Gillenia
Gillenia trifoliata.
GILLENIA Rosaceae
One of the best native North American perennials, this time from the eastern woodlands, G. trifo-
liata is usually a surprise the first time you see it, with starlike white flowers borne on the end of
very fine, wiry branches over light and airy foliage. A good cut flower but hard to sacrifice. Buy
this long-lived species whenever it is offered. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After seventeenth-century German botanist Arnold Gille.

Common Name: Bowman’s root, Indian physic.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive, humus-rich, acidic to neutral
soil.
Management: Very easy to grow. Needs summer water but no staking. Cut back in winter.
Resents competition.
Propagation: Seed in spring but slow to germinate; division is not recommended.
Pests and Diseases: Watch for slugs as plants first emerge in spring.
Companions: Ferns, meconopsis, dicentra, polygonatum, hosta, hardy cyclamen, hardy fuch-
sias, brunnera.
USDA
Zone
trifoliata 3–4ft × 2½ft 5–9 Small, white to Bronze-green, coarsely North American
pinkish white, star- toothed, turns red in fall native, good fall
shaped, narrow petals, color, RHS Award
reddish stems (E–M)

Glaucium 239
Glaucium flavum.
GLAUCIUM Papaveraceae
In its native range, including Greece, the horned poppy actually grows in pure beach sand. In
most of our soils and locations, however, it is a short-lived perennial or even biennial. The two
species we list are similar plants but very different in flower color. If you keep them from setting
seed, they may bloom longer than they normally would. Glaucium was named for its glaucous
leaves and follows the gray-leaf rule: “full sun and lean soil.” ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek glaukos (“gray-green”), referring to the leaves.
Common Name: Horned poppy.
Origin: Europe, North Africa, Central and Southwest Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Lean to moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Minimal water needs.
Light: Sun.
Management: Resents root disturbance. Cut back to new basal leaves in fall after they collapse.
Propagation: Seed, collect when ripe and sow in situ in spring or autumn, division is not
recommended.
Pests and Diseases: Free of problems except a bit of slug damage in early spring.
Companions: Yucca, artemisia, helictotrichon, Salvia patens, Euphorbia rigida, Ruta graveolens;
the dry border.
Notes: Really cool seedpods—something like an eschscholzia (California poppy) seedhead but
much bigger.
USDA
Zone
corniculatum 24–30in × 6–9 Crimson-red to Silver-gray, slightly hairy Red horned poppy
18in orange with a black
spot at base of each
petal (M–L)
flavum 24–36in × 6–9 Golden yellow or Glaucous, rough, lobed Yellow horned poppy,
18in orange, gray stems or finely cut unruly, seedpods
(M) 10–12in long

212_242_TP.indd 239 12/11/06 3:47:29 PM
240 Gunnera
Gunnera manicata.
GUNNERA Gunneraceae
This is not a rhubarb. Most gunneras are from subtropical areas but are quite hardy. Most of the
spectacular ornamental gunneras are extremely large and are best seen in botanical gardens like
Van Dusen in Vancouver, British Columbia, and Strybing in San Francisco; few are in small city
gardens. The large clump-forming species, G. tinctoria and G. manicata, particularly appreciate a
deep mulch of manure; this will create their wonderful huge leaves. The two groundcover forms
seem to be less hardy and have quite curious leaves. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After Ernst Gunnerus, Norwegian bishop and botanist.

Common Name: Prickly rhubarb, giant rhubarb.
USDA
Zone
magellanica 6–10in × 8–10 Tiny, green, with Bright to dark green, Mat-forming,
24in+ orange-red fruit (M) glossy, scalloped, cupped stoloniferous
kidney-shaped, 2–3in
manicata 8–10ft × 12ft 8–10 Tiny, greenish to Deep green, round to Clump-forming,
pinkish on thick kidney-shaped, pleated, RHS Award
thorny stalks (E–M) 8ft long, 4–6ft wide
prorepens 4in × 24in 8–10 Greenish white, Bronze-green to Dense, mat-forming
insignificant (M) brownish, ovate, groundcover,
scalloped, short-stalked mulberrylike clusters
of dark red fruit
tinctoria (syn. 6–10ft × 8ft+ 8–10 Tiny, rust-red, Deep green, heart- The smaller of the
chilensis) reddish stem, thick shaped to round, deeply giant gunneras
cone-shaped stalk lobed and toothed,
(M) puckered, 3–6ft long,
4–5ft wide

Gypsophila 241
Origin: South Africa, South America, Hawaii, New Zealand, Tasmania.

Preferred Conditions: Deep, humus-rich, moisture-retentive soil; don’t let it dry out.
Gunneras tolerate wet ground but not flooded areas. The large species need shelter from
cold and drying winds.
Light: Sun to part shade. Takes full sun in the Northwest.
Planting: Place gunnera one to two feet above the high-water mark, if siting near water.
Management: Protect the massive crowns of large species in winter with a heavy insulating
mulch. Cover crowns with their own leaves, cut and placed upside down, then straw or
manure. They are heavy feeders, so dress generously with manure every spring. Remove
flowers on the large species to increase size of the leaves. As the plant spreads outward, it
may become bald in the center. This is the time to start a new colony, or try and reestablish
growth in the center.
Propagation: Seed in containers as soon as ripe; keep containers cool and frost-free through
the winter, germination is slow; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs and snails, slugs and slugs, and slugs, odd as it is for a plant with so
many spines. Bait and hunt early to help leaves stay good-looking.
Companions: Large species are best grown as focal points, with lower-growing perennials in
mass plantings (petasites, darmera, rodgersia, primula), or with a big group of Japanese iris,
ligularia, and ferns; the damp garden.
Notes: South American native people eat the leaf stalks of G. manicata and G. tinctoria. Watch
for concrete casts of gunnera leaves as garden decorations.
GYPSOPHILA Caryophyllaceae
A great blender for the border, gypsophila produces masses of small, white or almost pink flowers
on nearly invisible stems. Pick when in full bloom for use as a fresh or dried cut flower. This is a
good plant to grow over those areas where you have spring bulbs or oriental poppies; it will hide
their foliage as it cures, or fill in their space once they are gone. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek gypsos (“gypsum”) and philos (“loving”).
Common Name: Baby’s breath, chalk plant.
Origin: Mediterranean, Central Asia, northwestern China, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, moderately fertile, well-drained, limy soil that warms up quickly
in the spring. Average water conditions; will not tolerate wet or damp conditions. Protect
from strong winds and too much competition.
Gypsophila paniculata.

242 Gypsophila
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant out in spring when plants are young; grafted forms—plant graft just below soil
level.
Management: Dislikes disturbance of taproots. Large flower sprays cause plants to become
top-heavy. Install wire rings when growth is only a few inches high, or pea sticks or bamboo
for later support. Cut back after flowering and before seed clusters form to encourage a
second bloom. May also benefit from a bit of lime or limestone chips. Cut back in fall when
foliage has cured.
Propagation: Seed; basal root cuttings (species only) in late winter; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Crown gall, crown and stem rot are uncommon (lime will reduce these
problems), snails, slugs.
Companions: Sweet peas, allium, dianthus; use with large-flowered, coarse-textured plants
(yucca, delphinium) for contrast.
Notes: It’s the slugs, stupid! Baby’s breath failure in the Pacific Northwest is ninety percent due
to slug and snail grazing on the tiny new growth tips as they first appear in spring. Nor do
the crowns like our wet winters. We wish they grew here!
USDA
Zone
fastigiata ‘Festival’ 2–3ft × 3ft 4–8 Double and semi- Bluish green, lanceolate Vigorous, erect,
(Festival Series) double white, compact, bred in
sometimes pink- Israel for cut flower
blushed (M–L) trade
f. ‘Festival Pink’ 2–4ft × 3ft 4–8 Pink (M) As above As above
f. Happy Festival = 2–2½ft × 2ft 4–8 Larger, white, double As above More compact, may
‘Danghappy’ and semi-double (M) rebloom in fall
paniculata 2–4ft × 3ft 4–8 Single to double Glaucous, lanceolate, May need support,
white, trumpet- somewhat sparse good cut
shaped (M–L)
p. ‘Bristol Fairy’ 2–4ft × 3ft 4–8 Double white, large As above Best cultivar, may
(M) need support, RHS
Award
p. ‘Flamingo’ 2½–3ft × 4–8 Double, pale lilac- As above Bushy, may need
2½ft pink (M) staking
p. ‘Perfekta’ 3–4ft × 3ft 4–8 Double white, large Gray-green, lanceolate A favorite with
(M) florists, may need
support
p. ‘Pink Fairy’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Double, light pink, As above Semi-dwarf, dense
large
p. ‘Schneeflocke’ 3ft × 3ft 4–8 Double white (M) Gray-green, narrow Blooms earlier than
(syn. ‘Snowflake’) most
repens 4–6in × 12in+ 4–8 Rose-pink (M) Gray-green, lanceolate, Creeping, a sweet
smooth, tiny groundcover or
rockery plant, short-
lived for us, RHS
Award
‘Rosenschleier’ 1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Semi-double, pale Green, small, lanceolate Can take moist soil,
(syn. ‘Rosy Veil’) rose-pink, opening RHS Award
white (M)
‘Viette’s Dwarf’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Double, pink fading Bluish green, narrow, Compact, dense
to white (M) lanceolate

Hedychium 243
HEDYCHIUM Zingiberaceae
The hardy ginger lilies are very nice, upright, late-season

bloomers for us; depending on the summer heat, they
begin to flower in late August if it’s a warmer summer,
mid September if it’s a mild summer. The hardiest and
showiest seems to be H. coccineum ‘Tara’, and H. densi-
florum ‘Stephen’ blooms just as reliably for us. Hedychium
leaves are nearly as fine as the flowers—erect, glaucous, and
exotic-looking. All are best planted in the spring, as soon
as plants are available, so they can get established for their
first winter. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek hedys (“sweet”) and

chion (“snow”).
Common Name: Garland lily, ginger lily.
Origin: Asia, China, Nepal.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, well-drained,
moisture-retentive, acidic soil. Don’t allow to dry out
during the growing season. Shelter from wind.
Light: Sun.
Management: Can be late emerging in spring. Don’t
move during dormant period. Best time is just when
they begin growth in spring. Cut off spent stems in late
autumn, down to the ground after frost damage. Mulch
in winter.
Hedychium coccineum ‘Tara’.
Hedychium coccineum ‘Tara’ with Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Hamburg’, and Magnolia sieboldii in fruit.

243_277_TP.indd 243 1/10/07 3:46:55 PM
244 Helenium
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe; divide rhizomes in spring.

Pests and Diseases: Aphids, root rot, leaf spot.
Companions: Hydrangea, cimicifuga, rodgersia, oriental lilies (to extend bloom time in the
garden).
Notes: Best results if heavily mulched. This is one of the plants you run around and cover with fir
boughs when a cold snap is due. Plant in the warmest part of your garden for the best bloom.
USDA
Zone
coccineum 6–8ft × 3ft 8–10 Deep red, orange, Mid-green, narrow, Hardy but needs
pink and white sharply pointed, heat, RHS Award
with prominent red lanceolate, 2ft × 2in
stamens, fragrant (M)
c. ‘Tara’ 3–5ft × 3ft 8–10 Light orange spikes Dark green, broadly Hardier than species,
with long red lanceolate, 2ft × 2in a very strong element
stamens, fragrant (M) in the garden, RHS
Award
densiflorum 3–5ft × 3ft+ 8–10 Orange-red spikes, Dark green, broadly Hardy
‘Stephen’ fragrant (M) lanceolate, ribbed,
shiny
greenii 3–4ft × 2ft 9–10 Red-orange spikes (L) Dark green, maroon Prefers some shade,
reverse, glossy tender
HELENIUM Asteraceae
North American natives, the sneezeweeds have beautiful

daisylike flower heads with raised central disk flowers
surrounded by prominent ray flowers in shades of yellow,
red, and copper. They produce dense clumps of branching
stems with lanceolate, toothed leaves. Heleniums are indis-
pensable in the midsummer and early fall garden, providing
an abundance of flowers over a long season. They are a
good cut flower for fresh arrangements. It is definitely
worth waiting for these reliable plants to get established.
~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek helonion, a name for

another plant that was possibly named after Helen of
Troy.
Common Name: Sneezeweed.
Origin: North America, South America, Central America.
Preferred Conditions: Moisture-retentive, well-drained,
with cool roots in a hot, sunny location. Tolerates wet
soil. Easy to grow in any fertile soil, but too-rich soil
will produce more foliage.
Light: Sun.
Helenium ‘Moerheim Beauty’.

Helenium 245
Management: While not necessary, timely pinching when stems are six to eight inches tall
can delay flowering and modify height, but this is not an advantage worth taking just to get
a shorter plant (especially in our usually cool summers). Deadhead to promote rebloom
(remove down to the next bud). Don’t allow to dry out; leaves will droop and drop if short of
water. Top-dress with organic material and mulch to keep roots cool. Taller forms may need
support, especially with wind or heavy rain. Cut back to crown in winter. Bait for slugs and
snails in early spring to protect young shoots.
Propagation: Division in spring or autumn every two or three years.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, powdery mildew, rust.
Companions: Crocosmia, rudbeckia, achillea, artemisia, monarda, solidago, tall grasses, phlox,
anthemis.
Notes: All parts of the plant may cause severe discomfort if ingested, and contact with the
foliage may aggravate skin allergies. Helenium hoopesii (recently transferred to the genus
Hymenoxys) is poisonous to animals, especially sheep.
USDA
Zone
autumnale 3–6ft × 2ft 3–9 Golden yellow, red Green, lanceolate Clump-forming, will
and copper, brownish suffer if too dry
yellow center,
2–2½in (M–L)
bigelovii 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Deep yellow, Green, shiny, lanceolate Clump-forming,
brownish yellow good cut
center, 2½–3in (M)
‘Bruno’ 2–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Mahogany-red, Dark green, lanceolate Erect
brown center, 2–3in
(M–L)
‘Butterpat’ 3–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Rich yellow, yellow- As above Needs support, long-
brown center, 2–3in blooming, good cut,
(M–L) RHS Award
‘Coppelia’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Coppery-orange, As above
(M–L)
‘Feuersiegel’ 5ft × 2ft 3–9 Golden brown to red, As above RHS Award
(M–L)
hoopesii (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Bright yellow or Gray-green, broad, Clump-forming,
Hymenoxys orange, yellow-brown lanceolate, glossy good cut
hoopesii) center, 3in (M)
‘Moerheim Beauty’ 2½–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Brownish red, dark Dark green, lanceolate Needs support,
brown center, long- upright, RHS Award
flowering, 2–3in
(M–L)
‘Riverton Beauty’ 4–5ft × 2ft 3–9 Golden yellow, As above Upright, needs
maroon center, 2–3in support
(M–L)
‘Rotgold’ (syn. ‘Red 3–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Shades of red and As above As above
and Gold’) yellow, brown center,
2–3in (M–L)
‘The Bishop’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Deep golden yellow, As above Dwarf,
brown center, 2–3in clump-forming
(M–L)
Perennials_H_TP.indd 245 12/7/06 6:20:15 PM

246 Helianthus
Helianthus ‘Lemon
Queen’.
HELIANTHUS Asteraceae
The perennial sunflowers do very well in a sunny, warm location. Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’
makes strong dense clumps and is one of the best late, pale yellow–flowered large-scale peren-
nials. Helianthus giganteus runs and can be a pest but blooms reliably. All these plants do flop;
support them with friends or pea sticks (they definitely will need staking if you overhead water).
Clumps will age, especially in the centers, and will need to be refreshed unless you have room for
them to roam. Drought on these prairie plants can trigger both powdery mildew and botrytis, so
keep them evenly moist and well fed. They make a good cut flower, but watch out for minor skin
irritation from the foliage. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek helio (“sun”) and anthos (“flower”).
Common Name: Sunflower, swamp sunflower.
Origin: North America, Central America, Peru, Chile.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, moist, moisture-retentive, well-drained, neutral to
alkaline soil, in an open, airy position. Some are drought tolerant.
Light: Sun.
Management: Fertilize or top-dress annually with compost or manure. Disbud side shoots for
larger blooms. Plants tend to spread and will need division every two to four years to control
them; the more vigorous ones may need to be shovel-pruned every spring to keep in bounds.
Staking may be needed. Bait for slugs as growth emerges in spring.
Propagation: Seed (cultivars may not come true from seed); division in spring or autumn; basal
or stem cuttings in spring or autumn.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, powdery mildew (if too dry), botrytis (if too wet), rust, cutworms.
Companions: Arundo donax, rudbeckia, aster, solidago, miscanthus, Cortaderia selloana.
Notes: Helianthus maximiliani, H. angustifolius, and H. salicifolius all bloom extremely late for
us, so in the Pacific Northwest, site them in full sun against a warm wall. In the chart, the
symbol ' = infinite spread.

Heliopsis 247
USDA
Zone
angustifolius 5–8ft × ∞ 6–9 Golden yellow, Mid-green, coarse, Swamp sunflower,
purplish center, narrow, lanceolate likes it hot, spreads
rough hairy stems aggressively
(M–L)
‘Capenoch Star’ 3–5ft × 4ft 3–9 Pale lemon-yellow, Mid-green Good cut, self-
darker yellow center, supporting, RHS
semi-double (M) Award
giganteus ‘Sheila’s 8–10ft × 4ft+ 3–9 Pastel yellow (M–L) Mid-green, narrow, Giant sunflower,
Sunshine’ similar to H. ‘Lemon creeping rootstock
Queen’
‘Lemon Queen’ 4–7ft × 4ft 3–9 Soft lemon-yellow, Deep green May need staking,
(syn. ‘Limelight’) darker yellow center, good cut, clump-
single (M–L) forming but will
run eventually, RHS
Award
‘Loddon Gold’ 3–6ft × 3ft 3–9 Double, golden As above Good cut, RHS
(decapetalus) yellow (M–L) Award
maximiliani 6–10ft × 2ft 4–9 Bright yellow, golden Mid-green, lanceolate, Last to bloom in the
brown center (L) willowy Pacific Northwest
‘Monarch’ 6–7ft × 3ft 5–9 Bright yellow, dark Mid-green, hairy, mostly RHS Award
center, large, semi- basal leaves
double (M–L)
salicifolius (syn. 6–8ft × 2½ft 6–9 Golden yellow, Gray-green, long, Willow-leaved
orgyalis) purple-brown center narrow, drooping, sunflower, needs
(L) slightly hairy staking, late
flowering, smells like
chocolate!
HELIOPSIS Asteraceae
Heliopsis is one of the more perennial of the sunflower relatives that were originally from the
Americas. Long-lasting flowers are as good cut as they are in the garden. A great plant for a warm
garden and will be in bloom for a long time. All are clump-forming. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek helios (“sun”) and opsis (“like”), a reference to the flower’s
resemblance to the sun.
Common Name: False sunflower.
Origin: North and South America.
Preferred Conditions: Poor to moderately fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil.
Drought tolerant (especially single-flower types).
Light: Sun.
Management: Deadhead to next bud for continued bloom. Double forms may need staking in
advance of a summer rain, which can make the flowers very heavy. Cut back to the ground in
winter and top-dress with organic matter. Divide every two to four years to maintain vigor.
Propagation: Division in spring or seed; basal cuttings.

248 Heliopsis
Heliopsis helianthoides
‘Loraine Sunshine’.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, aphids, snails. Most members of the daisy family
are prone to severe slug damage in early spring, and heliopsis are no exception to this rule.
Companions: Helenium, aster, phlox (white), monarda, late salvias, smaller miscanthus,
solidago.
Notes: These must have full sun in the Pacific Northwest.
USDA
Zone
helianthoides 3–5ft × 2ft 4–9 Golden yellow, Mid-green, ovate to Clump-forming,
yellow center, single lanceolate, serrated, long-blooming, good
to double, 2–3in glossy cut
(M–L)
h. ‘Loraine 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Golden yellow, 2in Variegated creamy- Good cut, long-
Sunshine’ (M–L) white with dark green blooming, comes
veins true from seed
h. var. scabra 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Yellow-orange, single Mid-green, lanceolate, Bushy
to double, 2–3in (M) coarse
h. var. scabra 2½–5ft × 2ft 4–9 Golden yellow, Mid-green Good cut,
‘Sommersonne’ brownish center, long-blooming
(syn. ‘Summer semi-double to
Sun’) single, 2–3in (M–L)
h. var. scabra 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Deep golden yellow, Green, glossy Good cut, compact,
‘Spitzentänzerin’ semi-double, 2–3in RHS Award
(syn. ‘Ballerina’) (M–L)

Helleborus 249
Helleborus orientalis.
HELLEBORUS Ranunculaceae
Along with clematis, these members of the buttercup family are among the most sought-after
of garden plants. In their season we often talk of nothing else. The most common, H. niger
(Christmas rose) and H. orientalis (Lenten rose), are great garden plants in a semi-shady loca-
tion. Most hellebores are semi-evergreen and are left standing during the winter. Elfi Rahr, a
local hellebore enthusiast, routinely polices her flowers, removing any with black areas caused
by botrytis and other possible fungal problems.
Helleborus niger is normally in bloom by Christmas and is a favorite pot plant (for a brief indoor
show) in Germany; it’s a bit more difficult to grow in heavy soils (give them a bit more sun). The best
forms, with large white flowers, fading to pink, are worth finding. The Lenten rose blooms mostly
in February and March in a wide color range. These have spectacular markings, from spotted to
netted and picotee. It is best to buy these in flower, although we have noticed some change in
flower color and appearance in the second, third, and even fourth year after planting.
Although some breeding has been focused on quick blooming from seed, this may prove to be
a useless exercise. Pollinated by bumblebees and an early food source for honeybees, H. orien-
talis sets seed easily and germinates well in the garden, after a series of freeze/thaw cycles; this
process can be used for growing from seed. All hellebores do best with fresh seed planted in June
or July, and if left outside will germinate the following spring. As with camellias, the H. orientalis
flowers are best not exposed to morning sun when frozen.
Helleborus foetidus seems to be short-lived, and H. argutifolius more long-lived. Both give us
the charm of green flowers in the spring. Helleborus foetidus is an extremely good plant for the
edge of a wood as well as hot, sunny locations. Their native environment has hotter summers
than we do in the Pacific Northwest. Helleborus argutifolius, H. lividus, and H. ×sternii actually
prefer more sun.
Hellebores are great plants for the winter garden. Bold evergreen leaves, with a wonderful
leathery substance, and beautiful flowers at a time when there’s not much else going on. Watch
out, you may become addicted! ~ Bob Lilly

250 Helleborus
a
n
e
Helleborus orientalis and H. foetidus ‘Narrow Leaf’.
Scientific Name: From the Greek helein (“to kill”) and bora (“food”).
Common Name: Hellebore, Christmas rose, Lenten rose.
Origin: Corsica, Sardinia, Greece, Turkey, central Europe, United Kingdom.
Preferred Conditions: Wide range. Well-drained, moisture-retentive, neutral to just alkaline,
and humus-rich.
Planting: Transplant or plant out in spring. Do not plant too deeply as this may impair flow-
ering. Plant just below the surface, with growing tips just at the surface.
Management: Manure or compost in early winter but keep it off the crown. Top-dress the
area around the crown with limestone chips to change the pH, so botrytis and other disease
organisms don’t overwinter.
Let hellebores that flower off the previous year’s leaf stem (H. argutifolius, H. foetidus)
flower (and set seed) before cutting their stems to the ground. New shoots will have
emerged from the crown, and new stems will grow and fill out during the summer and
flower the following year. Cut back the leaf stems of H. orientalis as the new flower stems
reach three to four inches to enhance flower display and reduce carry-over of disease on old
leaves; cut the leaf stems close to the crown. Remove old and damaged leaves as necessary,
and in winter, just before the buds open, cut off all the old leaves. When flower stems die
back after seeding, they can be cut back to the ground; this too helps to prevent and control
fungal diseases.
Remove seedlings around the base of plants to keep cultivars pure and unconjested; pot
them up. Hellebores resent division and reestablish slowly.

Helleborus 251
Propagation: Seed (especially H. foetidus and H. argutifolius)—do not touch stems of seedlings
when potting up; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, botrytis, aphids.
Companions: Viola, primula, ferns, hosta, polygonatum, arum, corydalis, pulmonaria, oxalis,
galanthus and other spring bulbs, brunnera; H. foetidus and H. argutifolius look best on their
own; plant H. niger in among a groundcover or mulch so the flowers stay clean.
Notes: When using hellebores as a cut flower, pierce up and down the stem with a pin and soak
for several hours or overnight in the bathtub or kitchen sink (lay them in the water). Now
they are ready for arranging and should last at least two weeks. All parts are poisonous.
USDA
Zone
argutifolius (syn. 24–49in × 6–9 Apple-green pendent Bluish green above, light Corsican hellebore,
corsicus) 24in cups, branched green reverse, toothed, short-lived,
clusters (E) veined, trifoliate, evergreen, self-sows,
leathery sun, RHS Award
a. ‘Janet Starnes’ 18–20in × 6–9 Greenish white (E) Variegated, blue-green Evergreen, sun
20in with pink and white
speckles
a. ‘Pacific Frost’ 18–20in × 6–9 As above More finely mottled and As above
20in speckled
×ericsmithii (syn. 10–14in × 18in 6–8 Green with a rose- Green, glossy, etched in Best foliage in sun
×nigristern) red blush, nodding, silver, palmate
saucer-shaped (E)
foetidus 18–30in × 6–9 Pale green bells, Ice-green new growth Stinking hellebore,
30in+ edged in maroon- aging to dark green, evergreen, needs
purple, drooping leathery, lanceolate more alkaline soil
airy clusters, long- leaflets, glossy, slight and sun but avoid
blooming (E) unpleasant scent, may intense sun, self-
flop if soil is too rich sows, vigorous, RHS
Award
f. ‘Narrow Leaf’ 18–30in × 6–9 Green cups with red As above except has Appeared in the
30in edge (E) narrow green leaflets NPA Borders at the
Bellevue Botanical
Garden
f. ‘Sopron’ 36in+ × 30in 6–9 Green, open clusters Metallic silvery-blue Evergreen, very
(E) sheen large-scale and
upright
f. Wester Flisk 10–20in × 6–9 Green with red lips Dark grayish green, Evergreen, self-
Group 30in (E) deeply divided, red sows, may flop
petioles and stems
lividus 15in × 18in 8–9 Creamy-green, buds Green with creamy- Tender, evergreen,
tinged pink (E) silvery mottling and RHS Award
veins, stems and leaf
reverse are pink-tinged
niger 10–18in × 4–8 White, faintly tinged Broad, dark green, Christmas rose,
20in with pink on outside, palmate, leathery, glossy, long-blooming,
golden stamen, deeply divided, toothed evergreen, slugs
nodding, cup-shaped ovate leaflets are a problem, RHS
(E) Award
n. Blackthorn 10–18in × 4–8 Purplish or pink- Grayish green, veined, Evergreen
Group 20in tinged green in bud, purple stems
opens white, fading to
pink (E)

252 Helleborus
USDA
Zone
n. ‘Potter’s Wheel’ 12in × 20in 4–8 White, pink-flushed Green, narrowly toothed As above
with green eye, large leaflets
(E)
n. ‘White Magic’ 12in+ × 20in 4–8 White, fading to soft Green As above
pink, opens nearly
flat, very large (E)
×nigercors 18in × 18in 7–9 Greenish white, pink- Dark green, pedate, 3- to RHS Award
flushed clusters (E) 5-toothed leaflets
odorus 12–20in × 7–9 Yellowish green, Dark green, palmate, Deciduous,
12–20in nodding, saucer- glossy, toothed leaflets, clump-forming
shaped (E) leathery
orientalis (syn. 15–24in × 4–9 Variable, yellowish, As above Lenten rose,
×hybridus) 18in creamy-green, evergreen, long-
purplish green, white, blooming, long-lived
pink to maroon, some
speckled or spotted
with purple-maroon
and subtle green
flushes inside and
out (E)
o. Ballard’s Group 14–16in × 18in 4–9 Variable color range, As above Evergreen
very cup-shaped,
large (E)
o. ‘Blue Lady’ 20in × 18in 4–9 Deep purplish blue, As above As above
up-facing (E)
o. double-flowered 15–24in × 4–9 White to pink to As above As above
hybrids 18in darker (E)
o. Party Dress 15–24in × 4–9 White through deep As above Evergreen, full sun
Group 18in pink, often with best
spotting, pointed
petals (E)
o. Royal Heritage 18–24in × 4–9 Pure white to nearly As above Evergreen, vigorous
Strain 24in black, red, purple, and
yellow, very large (E)
purpurascens 8–16in × 18in 5–8 Purplish maroon Mid to dark green, Deciduous, summer
outside, light green deeply cut, hairy, dormant
inside, cup-shaped (E) streaked with purple
×sternii 12–24in × 7–9 Creamy-green, tinted Gray-green with creamy Clump-forming,
18in pinkish purple, veins, 3 broad elliptic evergreen
variable (E) leaflets or lobes on
purplish pink stems
×s. Blackthorn 18–24in × 7–9 Chartreuse with pink Steel-blue Evergreen, RHS
Group 18in tints (E) Award
×s. ‘Boughton 18–24in × 7–9 Chartreuse with pink Gray-green, glossy Full sun, vigorous,
Beauty’ 18in flush (E) evergreen
thibetanus 12in × 12in 7–9 Shell-pink, pendent Apple-green, palmate, Goes dormant early,
(E) broad deciduous
torquatus 12in × 12in+ 5–8 Green and gray to Mid-green, lanceolate, Deciduous, flowers
nearly black with toothed lobes, hairy, emerge before leaves
faint pink flush, more divided than
pendent (E) others
viridis subsp. viridis 12in × 12in+ 7–8 Green, small, pendent Apple-green Green hellebore,
(E) deciduous

Hemerocallis 253
Hemerocallis fulva
‘Flore Pleno’.
HEMEROCALLIS Hemerocallidaceae
Daylilies are a perennial border staple and have introduced many gardeners into the world of
herbaceous plants. There’s a size, shape, and color for almost every situation, and thanks to the
many amateur and professional hybridizers, the range is multiplying as I write, with reportedly
more than a thousand new cultivars registered yearly.
Each flower blooms for one day, but the number of buds on each scape averages fifteen, there-
fore giving you two weeks of bloom. Some daylilies will produce more flower stems (scapes),
extending the flowering time, and some are repeat bloomers. Flower color is pearly white,
orange, yellow, red, pink, purple, melon, and brown, in varying shades for each color and in all
combinations. By choosing carefully for your region, you can have daylilies in bloom from May
to October. The standard bloom sequence for daylilies is as follows:
Extra Early (EE): first bloom period
Early (E): three to five weeks before peak bloom
Early Midseason (EM): one to three weeks before peak bloom
Midseason (M): peak bloom (June, July cusp)
Late Midseason (LM): one to three weeks after peak bloom
Late (L): four to six weeks after peak bloom
Very Late (VL): last bloom period
The habit is clumping, with foliage evergreen or semi-evergreen to deciduous. The leaves are
arching and emerge bright green in the spring. The stout flower stems or scapes are very strong
and require no staking.
243_277_TP.indd 253 1/10/07 3:46:57 PM

254 Hemerocallis
White and yellow daylilies punctuate a mixed deciduous border.
Daylilies aren’t too fussy—beyond requiring a minimum of six hours of direct sun per day
and adequate water to set buds. Many love the heat of the south (and don’t do well in the Pacific
Northwest), but their flower color is affected by heat and humidity; the pinks especially can give
a variable performance. A good landscape variety will double to triple in size per year but, as
with any perennial, may take a little time to settle in. Diploids, triploids, and tetraploids, whose
flowers have more substance, are the focus of most breeding programs. The species and cultivars
we include here have performed well for us.
The flower petals are very tasty—the smaller, the sweeter. Fresh petals are used in salads,
and the buds and flowers are used in soups or sautéed in a little butter and eaten as a side dish.
~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek hemero (“day”) and kallos (“beauty”).
Common Name: Daylily.
Origin: Asia, China, Korea, Japan.

243_277_TP.indd 254 1/10/07 3:46:58 PM
Hemerocallis 255
Preferred Conditions: Most average, fertile, well-drained soils with water as needed. Tolerates
moist locations.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Spring planting, when the widest selection is available, is best.
Management: Benefits from mulching. Clear away dead foliage in spring. Deadhead spent
blooms and remove spent scapes. Divide clumps when quantity and/or quality of bloom
begins to decrease. Cut back in autumn when foliage collapses; can be cut back in August if
they are really tired-looking but do not cut too far down: leave about six inches with a final
cleanup in winter. Individual dead leaves can be removed whenever they occur. Can host
many little slugs and show no damage; still, it is best to bait.
Propagation: Division in autumn or spring (anytime, really), but August is ideal.
Pests and Diseases: Spider mites, snails, slugs, aphids, rust, crown rot (not common in the
Northwest).
Companions: Grasses, crocosmia, nepeta, geranium, polygonum, persicaria; the summer
border.
USDA
Zone
‘Anzac’ 28in × 24in 3–9 Red with yellow-green Green, Dormant, flowers
throat, 7in (M) sword-shaped fade in strong sun
‘Autumn Minaret’ 66in × 36in 3–9 Gold with rusty stripe, Green, bladelike, Dormant
dark rust eye, fragrant, 5in arching
(M–VL)
‘Autumn Red’ 39in × 24in 3–9 Red-maroon, gold throat, As above As above
fragrant, 5in (M)
‘Baja’ 26in × 24in 3–9 Red with green throat, Velvety green, Semi-evergreen
reblooms, 6in (M) sword-shaped
‘Bertie Ferris’ 20in × 24in 3–9 Persimmon-orange, Green, Dormant, night
ruffled, 2½in (EM) sword-shaped bloomer
‘Bitsy’ 18in × 18in 3–9 Lemon-yellow, yellow Narrow, green Semi-evergreen
throat, reblooms, 1½in
(EM–L)
‘Black-Eyed Stella’ 12–18in × 18in 3–9 Golden yellow with red Green, Dormant, long
eye, reblooms, 3Vin sword-shaped bloomer, winner of
(EM–L) first All-American
Daylily Award
‘Bonanza’ 34in × 24in 3–9 Soft orange-yellow with Dark green, lush Dormant
bronze eye, fragrant,
reblooms, 4–5in (M)
‘Carlotta’ 25in × 24in 3–9 Red and cherry-pink, Green, Semi-evergreen
4½in (M) sword-shaped
‘Catherine 30–36in × 3–9 Light pink, yellow-green Green, arching, Dormant
Woodbery’ 24in throat, fragrant, 6in (M–L) sword-shaped
‘Cedar Waxwing’ 34in × 24in 3–9 Pink blend, yellow throat, Green, As above
ruffled edges, 6in (M) sword-shaped
‘Chicago Cattleya’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Purple blend, yellow-green As above As above
throat, 5¾in (M)
citrina 36–48in × 2in 3–9 Pale yellow, yellow throat, Dark green Dormant, night
4½in, fragrant (M) bloomer

256 Hemerocallis
USDA
Zone
‘Corky’ 36in × 24in 3–9 Yellow, mahogany-brown Green, arching Dormant, clump-
backs, nearly black stems, forming, RHS Award
3in (M–L)
‘Double River Wye’ 24–30in × 3–9 Light yellow, yellow-green Green, Dormant
24in throat, double, repeat sword-shaped
bloom, 4½in (M)
‘Eenie Allegro’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Apricot, green throat, As above Dwarf, dormant
2½in (M)
‘Eenie Fanfare’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Red with green throat, As above As above
white edges, repeat bloom,
2¾in (EM)
‘Eenie Weenie’ 10in × 18in 3–9 Yellow, green throat, As above Dormant
repeat bloom, fragrant,
1¾in (EM)
‘Frans Hals’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Rust and orange bicolored, Dark green, As above
yellow throat, lemon straplike
midribs, 5in (M–L)
‘Frosty Beauty’ 32in × 24in 3–9 Peach-rose blend, gold Green, As above
throat, repeat bloom, 5½in sword-shaped
(M)
fulva 36–48in × 3–9 Tawny-orange, yellow Bright green, Dormant, spreads,
24in+ throat, 5in (E) broad, grasslike very old cultivar
f. ‘Flore Pleno’ 30in × 24in+ 3–9 Tawny-orange, with red Green, Dormant
eye, double, 5in (E) sword-shaped
f. ‘Variegated 30in × 3–9 Tawny-orange, dark red Green, narrow, Dormant, remove
Kwanso’ 12–24in eye, double, 5in (EM) irregular white any green reversions
stripes
‘Gentle Shepherd’ 24–36in × 3–9 Near white, green throat, Green, Semi-evergreen
24in light ruffle, 5in (EM) sword-shaped
‘Golden Chimes’ 36–48in × 3–9 Chrome-yellow, green As above Dormant, long-
24in throat, mahogany reverse blooming, RHS
and buds, 2in (EM) Award
‘Grape Velvet’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Grape-purple, yellow As above Dormant
throat, fragrant, 4½in
(M–L)
‘Hall’s Pink’ 20in × 24in 3–9 Light pink, orange tinge, As above As above
dark pink eye, 3–4in
(M–L)
‘Happy Returns’ 18in × 24in 3–9 Light-yellow, yellow As above As above
throat, repeat bloom,
fragrant, 3Vin (EE–L)
‘Hyperion’ 40in × 24in 3–9 Lemon-yellow, fragrant, As above As above
repeat bloom, 5½in
(EM–L)
‘Ice Carnival’ 28in × 24in 3–9 Near white, green throat, As above As above
fragrant, repeat bloom, 6in
(M)
‘James Marsh’ 28in × 24in 3–9 Red, lemon-lime throat, As above As above
6½in (EM)

Hemerocallis 257
USDA
Zone
‘Janice Brown’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Pink with rose-pink As above Semi-evergreen
eye and green throat,
reblooms, 4¼in (EM)
‘Jedi Spellbinder’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Cream-yellow, 7½in (M) As above As above
‘Joan Senior’ 40in × 24in 3–9 Near white, lime-green As above Dormant, exquisite,
throat, repeat bloom, one of the best
fragrant, 6in (EM) whites
lilioasphodelus 30–36in × 3–9 Yellow, yellow throat, As above Lemon daylily,
(syn. flava) 24in fragrant, 4in (E) dormant, RHS
Award
‘Little Bumble Bee’ 20in × 18in 3–9 Soft yellow, chocolate eye As above Dormant
(EM)
‘Little Fred’ 24in × 18in 3–9 Black-red, 3in (EM) As above Semi-evergreen
‘Little Grapette’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Grape-purple, yellow As above As above
throat, repeat bloom, 2in
(EM)
‘Little Winecup’ 24in × 18in 3–9 Wine-red, yellow-green As above Dormant
throat, repeat bloom, 2in
(EM)
‘Lullaby Baby’ 20in × 24in 3–9 Light pink, green throat, As above Semi-evergreen
fragrant, 3½in (EM)
‘Lusty Leland’ 28in × 24in 3–9 Red, gold throat, 6¼in (M) As above Dormant
‘Magic Lace’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Pastel pink, green throat, As above As above
6in (EM)
‘Mary Todd’ 26in × 24in 3–9 Buff-yellow, yellow throat, As above Semi-evergreen
ruffled, 6in (EM)
‘Mini Stella’ 10in × 12in 3–9 Yellow, burnt-orange eye, As above Dormant, compact,
green throat, 1¼in (E) night bloomer
‘Naomi Ruth’ 30in × 24in 3–9 Apricot-pink, ruffled As above Dormant
edges, 3½in (M)
‘On Stage’ 26in × 24in 3–9 Rose-pink blend, 5½in As above Semi-evergreen
(EM)
‘Pandora’s Box’ 20in × 24in 3–9 Cream, purple eye, green As above Evergreen
throat, fragrant, 4in
(EM–L)
‘Pardon Me’ 18in × 24in 3–9 Red, yellow-green throat, As above Dormant
ruffled, repeat bloom,
fragrant, 2¾in (M–L)
‘Pink Damask’ 36in × 24in 3–9 Warm pinkish red, green- Green, thick, Dormant, RHS
gold throat, 5½in (M) sword-shaped Award
‘Pink Embers’ 20in × 24in 3–9 Salmon-pink, tangerine Green, Dormant
throat, 6in (EM) sword-shaped
‘Prairie Blue Eyes’ 28in × 24in 3–9 Lavender-purple, near- As above Semi-evergreen
blue eye, ruffled, 5¼in (M)
‘Purple Waters’ 36in × 24in 3–9 Purple, darker eye, repeat Green, thick, As above
bloom, 4½in (EM) sword-shaped

258 Hepatica
USDA
Zone
‘Raspberry Pixie’ 12–24in × 3–9 Raspberry blend, yellow Green, Evergreen, low
24in throat, fragrant, 1½in (M) sword-shaped clumping
‘Red Magic’ 36in × 24in 3–9 Orange-red, dark veins, As above Dormant
yellow throat, 3in (M)
‘Sammy Russell’ 24–30in × 3–9 Red, yellow throat (M–L) As above Semi-evergreen
24in
‘Siloam Amazing 24in × 24in 3–9 Bright yellow, soft green As above Dormant
Grace’ throat, ruffled, 5½in (EM)
‘Siloam Button 20in × 18in 3–9 Cream, maroon eye, repeat As above As above
Box’ bloom, 4½in (EM)
‘Stafford’ 28in × 24in 3–9 Crimson, yellow midribs Dark green, As above
and throat (M) narrow
‘Starstruck’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Yellow-green, pale green Green, As above
throat, fragrant, 5½in sword-shaped
(M–L)
‘Stella de Oro’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Gold-yellow, lime-green As above Dormant, dwarf,
throat, fragrant, repeat RHS Award
bloom (EM)
‘Strawberry Candy’ 26in × 24in 3–9 Strawberry-pink blend, As above Semi-evergreen
rose-red eye, 4¼in (EM)
‘Summer Wine’ 24in × 24in 3–9 Light violet, green-yellow Green, thick, Dormant
throat, 5½in (M) sword-shaped
‘Suzie Wong’ 24–30in × 3–9 Light yellow, 4in (EM) Green, As above
24in sword-shaped
‘Tetrina’s 35in × 24in 3–9 Bright yellow, fragrant, 5in As above Semi-evergreen,
Daughter’ (M) night bloomer, RHS
Award
‘Yellowstone’ 36in × 24in 3–9 Yellow, green throat, As above Dormant
yellow eye, 5in (M)
HEPATICA Ranunculaceae
The hepaticas, relatives of anemones, are low-growing, early-blooming plants of deciduous

woodlands. The solitary cup-shaped flowers in shades of blue, pink, and white are borne on
slender scapes. The leaves are kidney-shaped or lobed, and mid to dark green. Hepatica trans-
silvanica and H. nobilis have the most attractive foliage and are the most robust growers in our
climate. A great deal of hybridization is being done in Japan. The newer double and semi-double
forms are often grown as pot plants.
All hepaticas need humus-rich soil and prefer early spring sun and then shade as the season
progresses; H. transsilvanica can handle drier soil, but they all need summer moisture. The plants
are valuable additions to the late winter and early spring garden. It’s worth planting a deciduous
tree for them, if necessary. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek hepar (“liver”), referring to the shape and color of the leaves.
Common Name: Liverwort.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, limy, well-drained, moist soil. Doesn’t like to compete
with surrounding vegetation.

Hepatica 259
Hepatica nobilis.

Planting: Not too deep. Slow to establish. They don’t transplant very well.
Management: Resents disturbance. Top-dress with leaf mold or compost in autumn or winter.
Cut off old foliage in midwinter, once plants are well established, before flowers emerge,
or they will be obscured. Remove dead foliage on young plants and evergreen forms; leave
semi-evergreen forms alone for the first few years, then remove old foliage. Bait for slugs in
early spring.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed as soon as ripe.
Pests and Diseases: Rust, snails, slugs on young plants and new growth, root weevils.
Companions: Anemone nemorosa, helleborus, omphalodes, trillium, primula, ferns, erythro-
nium; the spring woodland garden.
USDA
Zone
acutiloba 6in × 6in 4–8 Light blue-lavender, Mid-green, 3- to 7-lobed, Sharp-leaved
pink, or white, cup- rounded or kidney- hepatica, similar
shaped (E) shaped, sharp-pointed, to H. americana,
mottled evergreen
americana 6in × 6in 4–8 As above Mid-green, purple- Evergreen
tinged beneath, kidney-
shaped, 3-lobed
nobilis (syn. triloba) 4in × 6in 4–8 Mauve to blue, Dark green, purple- Semi-evergreen, new
white, pink, or red, tinged beneath, kidney- leaves appear after
bowl-shaped (E) shaped, rounded, flowers
3-lobed
transsilvanica 5ft × 6in 4–8 Blue, white to pale Green, round to kidney- Easiest to grow, most
pink (E) shaped, 3-lobed, hairy vigorous, takes driest
soil, semi-evergreen,
RHS Award

260 Hesperis
HESPERIS Brassicaceae
Dame’s rocket is an old-fashioned cottage garden plant
with masses of mostly single, stocklike flowers, like those
of Matthiola incana or lunaria, the honesty plant: four-
petaled, cross-shaped flowers are characteristic of the entire
family. All have fragrant flowers borne in terminal racemes
or panicles; the long-blooming flowers of H. matronalis
are particularly fragrant at night. A gangly plant, but a few
are okay.
This biennial or short-lived perennial is often included
in the plant list for a butterfly garden. Hesperis is some-
times considered an invasive weed; short-lived though it
may be in some places, it self-sows heavily in others, espe-
cially woodland edges. Both youngsters and adults are easy
to pull out, however. Plants that don’t remain where origi-
nally planted bother some gardeners. Not us, not most of
the time. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek hespera (“evening”),

referring to its fragrance.
Common Name: Dame’s rocket.
Origin: West and Central Asia, Siberia, southern and
central Europe, Alps.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, limy, moisture-retentive,
well-drained, deep, loose soil. The double-flowered
forms need a richer soil and are more temperamental.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Raise young plants every few years from a spring
seeding, as the older ones deteriorate or the roots
Hesperis matronalis, the rare double-flowered form.
become woody and less productive. Alternatively, leave
some self-sown seedlings in place and remove the older plants. Site them among other
perennials, as they are hard to stake up.
Management: Leave seedheads on to ripen (takes a long time), or cut back for repeat bloom
before they set seed. Groom youngsters in the winter.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, snails, slugs, cutworms.
Companions: Alchemilla, lupinus, Lunaria rediviva, euphorbia, tulips, tall alliums, Digitalis
purpurea, smyrnium.
USDA
Zone
matronalis 2–4ft × 3ft 4–9 White, pale lavender, Dark green, coarse, Self-sows
open clusters, lancelike
fragrant (E–M)
m. double-flowered 2–2½ft × 2ft 4–9 As above, double As above Rare, less vigorous,
more difficult
to grow, doesn’t
set seed, must
be vegetatively
propagated
243_277_TP.indd 260
Heuchera 261
Heuchera ‘Canyon Delight’.
HEUCHERA Saxifragaceae
The current interest is in the colored-leaf forms of this large genus, from the nearly perfect
glossy black H. ‘Obsidian’ to the green and white mottled selections of H. sanguinea, ‘Monet’
and ‘Snow Storm’. This extreme range of foliar colors makes heucheras very versatile in the
garden. Both flowers and leaves appear on thin, wiry stems. Leaves are palmately lobed, two to
four inches across; the small flowers are often widely spaced on the vertical stems, and vary from
insignificant to moderately showy.
Heucheras can take a wide range of conditions, although deep shade will make them some-
what leggy and less floriferous. Grow your heucheras in soil that is a bit lean and don’t mulch
over the crown. They really resent this. Many heucheras are tissue-cultured forms; this system
produces a lot of new hybrids, and many of these are brought to us courtesy of Terra Nova Nurs-
eries. Look for the latest (‘Amber Waves’, ‘Marmalade’), and don’t expect all cultivars to be avail-
able. Some heucheras, both older and newer cultivars, are actually good cut flowers. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After Johann Heinrich von Heucher, German professor of medicine.
Common Name: Alumroot, coral bells.
Origin: North America, Mexico.
243_277_TP.indd 261
262 Heuchera
Preferred Conditions: Any reasonable, well-drained, humus-rich soil except heavy, soggy
ones. Prefers regular watering but tolerates summer drought once established.
Management: Separate and replant the best pieces every three to four years. Some forms get
a bit woody at the base and may need to be cut and rerooted in a greenhouse or cold frame.
Replant the woody stems well into the soil so that only the crown is above the ground (this
is not always successful, especially in heavy or wet soils). Removing the entire flowering
stem on the darker leaf forms makes for a better plant. Keep removing spent flower stems as
plants complete their blooming, and cut off old, ragged leaves. Groom and mulch in winter
with organic material. Feed regularly for very showy plants.
Propagation: Spring division, or seed.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, root weevils.
Companions: Artemisia, hemerocallis, ferns, hosta, geum, smaller geraniums, campanula,
carex (especially the gold and orange forms), astilbe, rodgersia, spring bulbs, scilla, muscari,
smaller iris, galanthus.
Notes: Most heucheras are evergreen in the Pacific Northwest, if a bit shabby-looking by
spring, and all, unfortunately, are short-lived for us: root weevils use them as summer food,
and their grubs can consume the entire root system over winter. We don’t have a good root
weevil control method, so replanting is often the final solution. Green-leaf forms seem a bit
more resistant.
USDA
Zone
americana 6in × 12in 4–9 Tiny, greenish, Dark green, flushed and Alumroot, clump-
brown and white, veined coppery brown, forming, very showy
1–3ft scapes (E–M) leathery, covered with foliage
a silvery sheen, broad,
ovate-cordate
a. Dale’s Strain 6in × 12in 4–9 Greenish white to Dark green, marbled Clump-forming
chartreuse, small, silver, blue, and bronze
1½–2½ft scapes
(E–M)
‘Amethyst Myst’ 10–12in × 18in 4–9 Pink, 26in scapes Amethyst-purple with
(E–M) silver sheen, glossy
‘Autumn Haze’ 8–12in × 18in 4–9 Cream, rose-tinted, Cinnamon with purple Dense
1ft scapes (M) highlights, lobed,
veined, good fall color
Bressingham 10–12in × 15in 4–9 Mixed range of Rich green Very floriferous
Hybrids pink, red, and white,
bell-shaped, 18–20in
scapes (E–M)
‘Can-can’ 8–10in × 16in 4–9 Green and white, Plum-purple with Stays compact, RHS
12in+ scapes (M) metallic silver sheen Award
and dark green veining,
ruffled
‘Canyon Delight’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Rose to hot pink, Green, glossy
12in+ scapes (E)
‘Canyon Pink’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Deep pink with Green, scalloped
lighter center, 12in
scapes (E)
‘Cappuccino’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Creamy-white, 12in+ Bronzy-brown with
scapes (E–M) white splash, ruffled

Heuchera 263
USDA
Zone
‘Cascade Dawn’ 8in × 18in 4–9 White, tiny, 28–30in Dark burgundy, overlaid
scapes (M) with silver-lavender
shadings, good winter
color
‘Cathedral 7in × 12in 4–9 Greenish white, 26in Multicolored with heavy
Windows’ scapes (M) sheen of silver-pewter
variegation, glossy,
veined, mahogany back
‘Checkers’ 7in × 12in 4–9 White, 2–2½ft Thick, metallic-silver
scapes (E–M) patterned
‘Cherries Jubilee’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Cherry-red, 16–24in Warm chocolate-brown,
scapes (M) ruffled
‘Chocolate Ruffles’ 8–10in × 18in 4–9 Small, creamy-white, Cocoa-brown, burgundy Vigorous
on purple 28–30in reverse, glossy, large,
scapes (M) ruffled
‘Chocolate Veil’ 8–12in × 18in 4–9 Purple, tinged lime- Chocolate-black with RHS Award
green, bell-shaped, purple highlights, silver
28in scapes (M) between veins, maroon
beneath, purple stems
‘Coral Bouquet’ 5–12in × 12in 4–9 Coral, large, 20in Green
scapes (M)
‘Crimson Curls’ 10–12in × 4–9 Creamy-white on Deep burgundy-red
12–14in burgundy 1½–2ft tones on top, purplish
scapes (E–M) reverse, ruffled
cylindrica 12in × 18in 4–9 Small brownish or Dark green, pale green Seed-grown
cream to greenish mottling, round to ovate,
yellow, 2ft scapes toothed, hairy
(E–M)
c. ‘Greenfinch’ 6–18in × 18in 4–9 Pale greenish yellow, Rosettes of dark green, Flowers are very stiff
small, tight spikes, round, scalloped, and upright
2–5ft scapes (E–M) overlaid with silvery
sheen, wavy-edged
‘Ebony and Ivory’ 10in × 15in 4–9 Ivory-white, 18–22in Ruby base with maroon-
scapes (M) black, ruffled
‘Eco Magnififolia’ 10in × 12in 4–9 Chartreuse, Gray-silver and purple
insignificant, 28in
scapes (E–M)
‘Firefly’ (syn. 12–18in × 12in 4–9 Dark vermilion-red, Deep green, rounded
‘Leuchtkafer’) small, fragrant, 2ft
scapes (E–M)
‘Fireworks’ 8in × 12in 4–9 Coral-red to light Bronzy matte green, RHS Award
pink, 20–24in scapes wine-red reverse
(E–M)
‘Green Ivory’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Whitish and green, Cream and green
2–3ft scapes (E–M)
‘Green Spice’ 9–12in × 15in 4–9 White, insignificant, Emerald-green with Good fall color
2ft scapes (E–M) deeper green edges,
silver veining, magenta
center
‘Magic Wand’ 8in × 15in 4–9 Cerise-red, double, Green RHS Award
26–28in scapes (M)

264 Heuchera
USDA
Zone
micrantha 8–12in × 4–9 Whitish or greenish Gray-marbled,
8–10in to purple, 2–3ft maplelike, 5–7 lobes,
scapes (E–M) toothed, hairy
m. var. diversifolia 12in × 10in 4–9 Creamy-white Bronzy-purple, crinkled
Bressingham sprays, 1½–2ft
Bronze = ‘Absi’ scapes (E–M)
m. var. diversifolia 10in × 15in 4–9 White or creamy, Mahogany-red to purple Seed-grown, 1991
‘Palace Purple’ bell-shaped, red with metallic sheen, PPA Award
anthers, 1–2ft scapes cordate, maplelike, shiny
(E–M)
m. ‘Martha 6–8in × 8in 4–9 Tiny, pink, 2ft scapes Bright green
Roderick’ (M)
‘Mint Frost’ 7–15in × 15in 4–9 Chartreuse and Soft green, silvery sheen,
white, 20–28in olive-green veining,
scapes (M) turns frosty purple,
veins turning silver
‘Montrose Ruby’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Creamy-white, Deep bronze-mahogany,
2½–3ft scapes (M) silver mottling
‘Northern Fire’ 16–18in × 16in 4–9 Scarlet-red, 1½– Dark green with white
2½ft scapes (E–M) and silver mottling
‘Oakington Jewel’ 12–15in × 15in 4–9 Coral-pink, 24–28in Bronze mottled with
scapes (E–M) metallic silvery-gray
sheen, purple veins,
green border, larger,
lobed
‘Obsidian’ 10in × 16in 4–9 Creamy-white to Very dark, glossy black, The best of the newer
pink, 2ft scapes (M) smooth, hold their color ones
‘Palace Passion’ 16in × 15in 4–9 Bright rose-pink, Mahogany-red to bronze Long-blooming
2–3ft scapes (M) with purple reverse
‘Persian Carpet’ 7–12in × 12in 4–9 Pink, inconspicuous, Rose-burgundy, dark
20–26in scapes (M) purple edges and silver
highlights, dark purple
veins, gray reverse
‘Petite Pearl Fairy’ 2–4in × 6in 4–9 Pink, 10in scapes Mint-green base, Spreads slowly
(M) bronze-silver marbling
‘Pewter Moon’ 12–15in × 15in 4–9 Pale ice-pink, large, Coppery-pink fading One of the great
maroon 20–24in to maroon with silvery modern heucheras
scapes (E–M) sheen
‘Pewter Veil’ 7in × 15in 4–9 Tiny, blush-white Coppery-maroon A good heuchera,
tinged purple, aging to silver-pewter, clumping
insignificant, charcoal veins
24–28in scapes (M)
‘Plum Pudding’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Off-white, Plum-purple with Tight growth habit,
insignificant, 2–3ft silvery veins, shiny excellent form
scapes (M) metallic finish
‘Purple Petticoats’ 7–15in × 15in 4–9 Off-white, Deep burgundy, dark RHS Award
insignificant, 2–3ft purple reverse, ruffled
scapes (E–M)
‘Raspberry Regal’ 8–12in × 15in 4–9 Raspberry-red, Blue-green marbled Good cut, RHS
30–40in scapes Award
(E–M)

Heuchera 265
USDA
Zone
‘Regina’ 12–14in × 12in 4–9 Light pink, 2–3ft Dark purple-red, RHS Award
scapes (E–M) overlaid with silver and
burgundy-bronze
‘Ring of Fire’ 8–15in × 12in 4–9 Bright cherry-red, Silver with purple tinge
30in scapes (M) and veining, edges turn
bright coral in fall
‘Ruby Mist’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Deep pink, 2–2½ft Dark green, light silver Compact
scapes (E–M) reverse
‘Ruby Veil’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Insignificant, ruby- Deep green with slate-
red 2–2½ft scapes gray veins, zones of
(M) metallic silvery sheen
with ruby shading
sanguinea 9–12in × 15in 4–9 Pink or red, bell- Dark green, marbled Coral bells, the
shaped clusters, pale green, lobed, common form in
nodding, 15–24in toothed, hairy, round to older gardens
scapes (E–L) kidney-shaped
s. ‘Chatterbox’ 8in × 12in 4–9 Rose-pink, bell- Mid-green
shaped clusters,
nodding, 18in scapes
(E–L)
s. ‘June Bride’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 White, 15–18in As above
scapes (M)
s. ‘Monet’ 8in × 12in 4–9 Red-rose, 20–30in Creamy-white, splashed Vigorous
scapes (M) deep green, pink fall
color
s. ‘Snow Storm’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Reddish pink, 1–1½ft Green, splashed with
scapes (E–M) white and cream, edged
dark green, ruffled
s. ‘Splendens’ 6–8in × 12in 4–9 Bright carmine- Dark green Very floriferous, old
red, 18–24in scapes cultivar, seed-grown
(E–M)
s. ‘Splish Splash’ 12in × 12in 4–9 Rose-pink, 16–18in Deep green, mottled
scapes (E–M) with white, turns
raspberry-red in fall
s. ‘White Cloud’ 8–10in × 10in 4–9 White, fragrant, Green Very floriferous
2–2½ft scapes (M)
‘Silver Scrolls’ 10in × 12in 4–9 White, 2ft scapes (E) Silvery with dark purple Good, dense plant
veining, purplish overlay
in spring
‘Silver Shadows’ 6–8in × 12in 4–9 White, 26–36in Dark silver tones with Flowers emerge in
scapes (M) metallic purplish tones, early summer
veined, wavy, rosy
overtones in spring
‘Smokey Rose’ 12in × 15in 4–9 Rose-pink to purple, Deep bronze with Very good cultivar
18–24in scapes (M) mahogany-silver
mottling
‘Stormy Seas’ 8–10in × 15in 4–9 Off-white, small, Multicolored, bronze, Very sun tolerant
28–36in scapes silvery, and purple,
(E–M) ruffled
‘Velvet Night’ 7–12in × 12in 4–9 Pinkish white, Dark slate-black with
26–30in scapes (M) metallic-purple shading,
red veining

266 ×Heucherella
×Heucherella
‘Kimono’. ×HEUCHERELLA Saxifragaceae
This intergeneric hybrid has the vigor of tiarella and the more showy flowers of heuchera. Plants
share heuchera’s problem with root weevils and are a bit messy in winter. Heucherellas are useful
as groundcovers under open deciduous shrubs, where they can be allowed to run about. Many
have patterned or marked foliage, and their being evergreen makes them useful in the garden.
Flower stems tend to be shorter than those of their parents, with flowers packed tighter on the
stems; some are quite showy. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the names of the parent genera, Heuchera and Tiarella.
Common Name: Foamy bells.
Origin: Garden origin; these are naturally occurring hybrids.
Preferred Conditions: Light, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, moist, well-drained soil. A hot
sunny location on sand in July is not advised.
Management: Similar culture to heuchera and tiarella. Separate plantlets from rooted stolons.
Groom in winter.
Pests and Diseases: Root weevils, slugs.

×Heucherella 267
Companions: Viola, arisarum, arum, smaller bulbs, helleborus, geranium, brunnera, dicentra,
hosta, polygonum; a good plant for color contrast or echo.
Notes: Watch out! These can spread quickly in some locations (good soil, regular water). Look
for newer varieties—two we have yet to try are ×Heucherella ‘Stoplight’ and ‘Chocolate Lace’.
USDA
Zone
alba ‘Bridget 6–12in × 12in+ 4–9 Pale pink and white, Mid-green with brown No stolons,
Bloom’ tiny, 14–20in scapes spots and blotches, clump-forming
(E–L) cordate to ovate,
toothed, lobed, rough
and hairy
a. ‘Rosalie’ 8–12in × 12in+ 4–9 Pink fading to white, Dark green with As above
15–24in scapes (E–M) prominent dark purple
patch
‘Burnished Bronze’ 8in × 12in 4–9 Pink fading to white, Burgundy-bronze, large, Some repeat bloom
1–1½ft scapes (E–M) deeply lobed
‘Cinnamon Bear’ 7in × 12in 4–9 Pink, starry, 12–20in Cinnamon reddish
scapes (E–M) brown
‘Dayglow Pink’ 7in × 12in 4–9 Brilliant pink, 16–20in Silvery-green with
scapes (E–M) chocolate-brown center,
deeply cut
‘Kimono’ 6–9in × 12in 4–9 Soft pinkish white, Silver and green with RHS Award
1–2ft scapes (E–M) wide purple central
stripe, palmate
‘Pink Frost’ 8in × 12in 4–9 Pink, 14–24in scapes Green, frosty, with silver Clump-forming
(E–M) sheen
‘Quicksilver’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Pale pink, 15–20in Maroon, purple, and
scapes (E–M) chocolate, dark red
veining, strong silver
highlights
‘Silver Streak’ 6–12in × 12in 4–9 Pale pink and white, Maroon-purple, silver
tinged lavender, 20in highlights
scapes (E–M)
tiarelloides 7in × 18in+ 4–9 Tiny, pink bells on Light green, ovate to Stoloniferous, RHS
brownish red 12–18in cordate Award
scapes (E–L)
t. ‘Crimson Cloud’ 6–12in × 18in+ 4–9 Pink, 14–18in scapes Pale green with red dots, Vigorous
(E–M) etched in silver
‘Viking Ship’ 6in × 18in+ 4–9 Pink, starry, 1–2ft Silvery, palmate Moderate growth
scapes (E–M)

268 Hosta
HOSTA Hostaceae
Durable to dainty, hostas can find a niche in almost any

garden. Most are sun tolerant in heavy, moist soils, although
in some situations the pale green to gold- and white-varie-
gated leaf forms can burn, so use care in your selection and
placement. Most flower scapes tend to get ratty, so cut them
off as soon as finished—the sieboldiana types can even set
seed. The main trick with hostas is to bait for slugs early in
the season when growth has barely begun. Any elongated
pip can be munched on, causing the first leaves (those rolled
on the outside of the growth pip) to be perforated or laced. A
constant baiting program until summer usually keeps them
looking good. Blue leaves (sieboldiana parentage) seem to
be more slug resistant, dwarfs less so. There are many new
forms and varieties each year; usually the leaves are suffi-
ciently formed by 1 May, so purchase new plants then.
Hosta plantaginea and its sports and forms, with those
large and quite long, fragrant flowers, do not make uniform
clumps, so are best used in an open, casual woodland; these
are the ones more correctly called plantain lilies. As hosta
clumps mature, they become congested and less regular,
with more and more overlapping leaves in odd directions.
This is the time to divide: use the best divisions with the
firmest and largest eyes at the edge of the clump, and divide
down to three to five eyes. You can divide hostas in spring,
fall, or late winter; pot up the smaller pieces for friends and
the plant sales.
The best garden hostas are H. ‘Aureomarginata’ (ventri-
cosa), H. ‘Bressingham Blue’, H. ‘Francee’, H. ‘Frances
Hosta ventricosa.
Williams’, H. ‘Golden Tiara’, H. ‘Halcyon’, H. ‘Invincible’,
H. ‘June’, H. ‘Krossa Regal’, H. ‘Minuteman’, H. ‘Patriot’,
H. ‘Royal Standard’, H. sieboldiana var. elegans, H. ‘Sum and Substance’, H. tokudama (and both
its forms), and H. ‘Wide Brim’. The undulata group, with its slightly twisted leaves, will give you
a more old-fashioned look.
Hostas are edible and have been used by the Japanese and Koreans for centuries, as a pickled,
fried, or steamed vegetable. Many recipes describe using the younger spring leaves in place of
spinach as a steamed vegetable, while the older, more fibrous foliage is used in soups and dishes
that allow for longer cooking. ~ Bob Lilly

Hosta 269
Scientific Name: After Austrian physician Nicholas Tomas

Host.
Common Name: Plantain lily, funkia.
Origin: China, Japan, East Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moisture-retentive,
well-drained soil.
Light: Shade to sun. Most gold-foliaged forms need more
shade.
Management: Remove old or damaged leaves throughout
the season. Cut back flower scapes in fall, to two to
three inches, so you can tell where the crowns are in
the winter and don’t step on them. Clear away foliage as
it dies back. Top-dress with organic material in winter.
Hostas respond well to manure and can be mulched
over the crowns. They often do not require division
except for propagation. Bait for slugs.
Propagation: Seed; division of crowns in early spring
before the pips begin to expand.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, rabbits, big-footed
gardeners.
Companions: Ferns, bulbs, astilbe, dicentra, hemerocallis,
iris, grasses, helleborus, hakonechloa, luzula, geranium,
polygonatum, primula. Good alone as a container plant:
police for slugs, feed them on a regular basis with a
water-soluble, mixable fertilizer—they make fantastic
show plants.
Notes: Can take all-morning sun and a bit more in the
Pacific Northwest. American growers excel in hosta
breeding; look for their new introductions (first avail-
able by mail order) every year. The chart has a (P) for
Every woodland garden benefits from a hosta or two, here
those that look great in pots; AHGA = American Hosta
paired with lady’s mantle and geraniums.
Growers Association.
USDA
Zone
‘Abba Dabba Do’ 24in × 60in+ 3–9 Pale lavender, 2½ft Dark green, golden Tolerates sun,
scapes (M) yellow edges that widen vigorous
with age, ovate to
cordate
‘Abiqua Drinking 16–20in × 3–9 White, lavender tinge, Blue-green, frosty, Aptly named (P)
Gourd’ 40–45in 2ft scapes (M) very puckered, deeply
cupped, round
‘Abiqua 15in × 3–9 Pale lavender, 28in Bluish green, wide Vigorous (P)
Moonbeam’ 30–36in scapes (M) creamy-yellow to golden
edges, round, corrugated
‘Albomarginata’ 14–20in × 3–9 Lavender, 30in scapes Green, narrow white Best in shade
(fortunei) 20–24in (M–L) edges, elongated, wavy,
glossy reverse

270 Hosta
USDA
Zone
‘Allen P. 8–12in × 18in 3–9 Purple, 15–18in scapes Dark green, thin white Compact, shade to
McConnell’ (M) edges sun, vigorous
‘Antioch’ (fortunei) 18–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender-blue, Dark green, broadly Vigorous
48in funnel-shaped, edged in cream aging to
arching stems, 3ft white, ovate
scapes (M)
‘Aoki’ (fortunei) 24in × 18in 3–9 Pale violet, 3–4ft Dark grayish green,
scapes, fragrant cordate
(M–L)
‘Aphrodite’ 18–24in × 3–9 Double white, Green, glossy, cordate Slow to increase,
(plantaginea) 24–30in fragrant, 2ft scapes divisions only, not
(M–L) tissue culture
‘August Moon’ 20–26in × 3–9 Grayish white, Golden yellow to pale Vigorous, needs
30–36in frosted with lavender, green, crinkled, round some sun to remain
28–32in scapes (M) to cordate, cupped and yellow, can be
puckered indirect or morning
sun
‘Aureomarginata’ 24–28in × 3–9 Pale lavender to Dark green, irregularly Big plant
(montana) 36in+ nearly white, 3–4ft yellow edges aging to
scapes (M) cream, narrow, tapering,
wavy margins, glossy
‘Aureomarginata’ 18–28in × 3–9 Purple, 3ft scapes (M) Dark green center, RHS Award
(ventricosa) 30in yellow edges fading
to cream, shiny, wavy,
cordate
‘Big Daddy’ 24–36in × 3–9 White, bell-shaped, Deep gray-blue, Very floriferous,
(sieboldiana) 36–60in 3ft scapes (E–M) rounded-cordate, robust, big plant
quilted, cupped, large
‘Birchwood Parky’s 14–18in × 30in 3–9 Pale lavender, bell- Yellow-gold aging to Sun tolerant,
Gold’ shaped, 28in scapes yellow-green, ruffled, vigorous
(M) cordate
‘Blue Angel’ 24–36in × 3–9 White, hyacinthlike, Large, bluish gray, Slow to establish (P),
(sieboldiana) 48–72in 3–4ft scapes (E–M) cordate-ovate, wavy, RHS Award
heavily textured
‘Blue Boy’ 6–12in × 20in 3–9 Lavender, 10–12in Blue-green, frosty, small, (P)
scapes (M) cordate-rounded
‘Blue Cadet’ 12–16in × 28in 3–9 Lavender, 14in scapes Blue-green, cordate- Vigorous, good en
(M) rounded, heavily masse (P)
textured
‘Blue Umbrellas’ 30–36in × 3–9 Pale lavender, bell- Bluish green aging Sun tolerant, fast
(sieboldiana) 48in+ shaped, 3ft scapes to dark green, ovate- grower, big plant
(M) cordate, cupped,
puckered, glossy
‘Blue Wedgwood’ 14–18in × 3–9 Pale lavender, 18–24in Deep gray-blue, wedge- Shade, neat grower,
(Tardiana Group) 24–36in scapes (M) shaped, wavy margins vigorous (P)
‘Bressingham Blue’ 24–30in × 3–9 White, 3ft scapes (M) Bluish green, cupped, (P)
(syn. coerulea) 24–48in ribbed, puckered, large

Hosta 271
USDA
Zone
‘Bright Lights’ 12–24in × 3–9 White, bell-shaped, Golden yellow center, Heat tolerant,
48in 30in scapes (M) wide, dark blue-green vigorous
edges, cordate-rounded,
puckered
‘Brim Cup’ 12in × 15in 3–9 White to pale Rich green, creamy-
lavender, 14–18in yellow edges, puckered,
scapes (M) cupped
‘Candy Hearts’ 14–16in × 28in 3–9 Pale lavender to off- Blue-green, cordate, Compact, good
white, 20–26in scapes thick groundcover,
(M) vigorous
‘Cherry Berry’ 12–16in × 16in 3–9 Violet-purple, red- Creamy-white center, Red stems, a new
spotted, 30in scapes dark green edges, direction for
(M) narrowly lanceolate breeders
‘Christmas Tree’ 18–20in × 3–9 Pale lavender-white, Dark green, creamy-
24–36in funnel-shaped, white edges, cordate-
arching scapes, rounded, puckered
20–24in (M)
‘Color Glory’ 26–30in × 3–9 White, 24–26in Blue-green edges, yellow Large plant
(sieboldiana) 40in scapes (M) center
‘Dorset Blue’ 8–10in × 12in 3–9 Lavender-white, bell- Dark blue-green, Slow-growing (P)
(Tardiana Group) shaped, 1ft scapes (M) ovate-cordate-rounded,
cupped, puckered
‘Elvis Lives’ 16–18in × 3–9 Lavender-purple, 2ft Bluish green, wavy Upright
36–60in scapes (M) margins, arching,
narrow
‘Emerald Tiara’ 12–14in × 12in 3–9 Purple and white, Golden yellow center Vigorous
bell-shaped, 24–28in with green border,
scapes (M) broadly lanceolate-ovate
or cordate, wavy
‘Emily Dickinson’ 18in × 36in 3–9 Dark lavender, Mid-green, wide creamy
fragrant, 2ft scapes edges, lanceolate
(M–L)
‘Fire and Ice’ 10–14in × 15in 3–9 Pale lavender, 20in White center, dark green Dwarf, creamy white
scapes (M) edges, thick seedpods
fortunei var. 18–30in × 3–9 Pale lavender, Bright yellow, edged Part shade, RHS
albopicta (syn. 36in trumpet-shaped, 34in in pale green, aging Award
‘Aureomaculata’) scapes (M) to solid dark green,
ovate-cordate
f. var. 12–24in × 3–9 Lavender, 2ft scapes Dark green, gold edge, Vigorous, RHS
aureomarginata 24–36in (M) prominently veined, Award
(syn. ‘Obscura puckered, rounded
Marginata’)
f. var. hyacinthina 18–24in × 3–9 Lavender-white to Bold, grayish green, Very common, RHS
24in pale purple, fragrant, edged with thin line of Award
1½ft scapes (M) gray, glaucous beneath
‘Fragrant Bouquet’ 18–22in × 3–9 Large, white, fragrant, Apple-green, edged in 1998 AHGA Award,
24–48in 2–3ft scapes (M) white, cordate-ovate- vigorous
rounded, cupped,
puckered

272 Hosta
USDA
Zone
‘Francee’ (fortunei) 15–22in × 3–9 Lavender, funnel- Dark green, edged in Tolerates sun,
36in+ shaped, arching white, cordate-ovate- vigorous, RHS
stems, 24–30in scapes rounded, cupped, Award
(M) puckered
‘Frances Williams’ 36–40in × 3–9 Pale lavender-gray- Blue-green, yellow edge, May be susceptible
(sieboldiana) 42in+ white, bell-shaped, corrugated, cupped, to late frosts (P),
30–60in scapes (M) cordate, prominently RHS Award
veined
‘Fringe Benefit’ 24–36in × 3–9 Pale lavender to Green, creamy edges, Very floriferous,
36in smoky-white, 2ft cordate, puckered vigorous
scapes (M–L)
‘Ginko Craig’ 6–12in × 18in 3–9 Lavender to deep Narrow, green with Dwarf, slow
purple, funnel- white edge, pointed
shaped, 18in scapes
(M)
‘Gold Drop’ 6–12in × 12in 3–9 White, lavender tints, Chartreuse, smooth, Dwarf, shade to sun,
(venusta) 15in scapes (M) cordate good en masse
‘Gold Edger’ 8–12in × 3–9 Pale lavender, 18in Chartreuse, cordate Prefers some sun,
18–24in scapes (M) vigorous, use as
name applies
‘Golden Tiara’ 12–15in × 24in 3–9 Deep lavender- Light green, creamy- Vigorous, RHS
purple, bell-shaped, yellow edge, Award
2ft scapes (M) cordate-rounded
‘Gold Standard’ 18–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, funnel- Light greenish yellow, Leaves are more gold
(fortunei) 30–36in shaped, 2–3½ft dark green edge, ribbed, in sun, vigorous
scapes (M) cordate-ovate
‘Great 20–24in × 3–9 Grayish white, 34in Dark blue-green edges, Large plant, grown
Expectations’ 30–36in scapes (M) splashed creamy-yellow, for the large leaves
(sieboldiana) large, puckered, thick,
cordate
‘Ground Master’ 12in × 20in 3–9 Deep purple, funnel- Dark green, creamy- Prostrate, good en
shaped, 20in scapes yellow edges, wavy, masse, vigorous
(M) ovate to lanceolate
‘Guacamole’ 18–20in × 3–9 Large, white, fragrant, Rich green, chartreuse- 2002 AHGA, full
24–52in 30–36in scapes (M) gold center, large sun, aptly named,
vigorous
‘Hadspen Blue’ 8–12in × 18in 3–9 Pale lavender, bell- Bluish green, thick, Slow-growing (P)
(Tardiana Group) shaped, 15in scapes corrugated, ovate to
(M) cordate, cupped
‘Halcyon’ 14–20in × 3–9 Lilac-blue, bell- Glaucous, veined, wavy The standard blue
(Tardiana Group) 24–28in shaped, 18in scapes margins, thick, cordate, hosta, upright, best
(M) ribbed in shade (P), RHS
Award
‘Honeybells’ 24–36in × 3–9 White with lilac flush, Light green, wavy Full sun, very
48in bell-shaped, fragrant, margins, pointed, common, RHS
30–36in (M–L) veined, ovate-cordate Award, vigorous
‘Inniswood’ 20–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, 30in Bright gold, deep green
(montana) 40–48in scapes (E–M) edge, puckered, cordate
to rounded

Hosta 273
USDA
Zone
‘Invincible’ 10–12in × 3–9 Pale lavender to Dark green, olive edges, Floriferous, sun
14–18in white, arching stems, glossy, thick, wavy, very tolerant, vigorous
funnel-shaped, 20in striking (P)
scapes (M–L)
‘Janet’ (fortunei) 16in × 24in 3–9 Pale lavender, 16–18in Bright golden yellow (P)
scapes (M–L) fading to white, green
edges
‘June’ (Tardiana 12–16in × 3–9 Violet, bell-shaped, Blue-green edges, An elegant plant,
Group) 24–36in 16–20in scapes (M) creamy center aging 2001 AHGA Award
to chartreuse, cordate, (P)
smooth
‘Kifukurin’ 18in × 24in 3–9 White, flushed Dark green, yellow- Good en masse
lavender, enclosed green edge, prominent
in broad bracts, 2ft veins, glossy, narrow,
scapes (M) lanceolate-ovate or
elliptic
‘Krossa Regal’ 30–36in × 3–9 Pale lavender, bell- Blue-green, frosty, Vase-shaped, early
40in shaped, 3–4ft scapes veined, ovate-lanceolate, leaf color is fantastic
(M) pointed, a very proper- (P), RHS Award
looking hosta
lancifolia 12–24in × 3–9 Deep lilac, flushed Dark green, glossy, Tolerates drier
18–24in purple, red-dotted small, pointed, veined, and sunnier, long-
stems, trumpet- narrowly lanceolate blooming, RHS
shaped, large, 2ft Award
scapes (M–L)
‘Little Aurora’ 6–10in × 20in 3–9 Pale lavender, 10in Golden green, thick,
(tokudama) scapes (M) puckered, cupped
‘Little Sunspot’ 6in × 12in 3–9 White, pale lavender Golden yellow center, Dwarf, good edger
(tokudama) veins, 12in scapes (M) wide dark green edges
‘Love Pat’ 18–24in × 3–9 Creamy-white to pale Intensely blue, cupped, Very shade tolerant,
(tokudama) 24–36in lavender, bell-shaped, cordate to rounded, RHS Award
22–24in scapes (M) puckered, thick
‘Lunar Eclipse’ 20in × 3–9 White, 18–24in scapes Bright yellow, edged in Shade only
30–36in (M) white, quilted, cupped
‘Minuteman’ 24in × 48in 3–9 Pale lavender, 2ft Rich deep green, creamy One of the best
(fortunei) scapes (M) white edges, cupped, newer hostas—
glossy, heavy striking in pots (P)
‘Moerheim’ 18–20in × 3–9 Lavender, 32in scapes Mid-green, creamy-
(fortunei) 20in (M) white edges
montana (syn. 24–30in × 3–9 Pale lavender to gray- Rich green and pale Large plant, over
fortunei var. 36in+ mauve, 3–4ft scapes green points, deeply time can get
gigantea) (M–L) veined, glossy, cordate- immense
ovate, thick, large
m. ‘Night Before 12–18in × 3–9 Pale lavender, 18–20in White center, wide dark Tolerates sun,
Christmas’ 24–30in (M) green edges, pointed, vigorous
wedge-shaped
‘Northern 30in × 60in 3–9 White, 32–36in Blue-green, broad
Exposure’ scapes (M) yellow-cream edges, flat,
(sieboldiana) puckered

274 Hosta
USDA
Zone
‘On Stage’ 14in × 24in 3–9 Pale lavender, funnel- Light yellow, light
shaped, 20in scapes and dark green edges,
(M) veined, puckered, center
fades to cream
‘Pacific Blue Edger’ 8–10in × 12in 3–9 Glaucous lavender, Blue-gray, corrugated, Mounding, good for
20in scapes (M) cordate, glaucous the edge of paths
reverse
‘Paradigm’ 20in × 36in 3–9 Pale lavender, nearly Bright golden yellow,
white, 2ft scapes (M) wide bluish green edges,
puckered
‘Patriot’ 15–22in × 3–9 Pale lavender, funnel- Dark-green, white edges, 1997 AHGA Award,
30in shaped, 26–30in (M) ovate-cordate, cupped, vigorous (P), RHS
puckered Award
‘Paul’s Glory’ 15–20in × 3–9 Pale lavender, Golden yellow, blue- 1999 AHGA Award
26–28in arching, bell-shaped, green edges, cordate,
2ft scapes (E–M) puckered, center fades
golden white
‘Piedmont Gold’ 18–20in × 3–9 Whitish, 26in scapes Bright golden, wavy Part shade
24in (M) margins, deep veins,
cordate-lanceolate
plantaginea 20–24in × 3–9 White, large, Light green, yellow- August lily, largest
24–30in trumpet-shaped, veined, glossy, cordate, flowers, spreads
fragrant, 18–24in arching, wavy
(M–L)
p. var. japonica 18–24in × 3–9 White, large, Bright yellowish green, Tolerates sun, RHS
(syn. grandiflora) 36–54in trumpetlike, fragrant, glossy, narrow to cordate Award
30–36in scapes
(M–L)
‘Regal Splendor’ 30–36in × 3–9 Pale lavender, bell- Gray-green, yellow 2003 AHGA Award,
30–36in shaped, 3–4ft scapes to white edges, vase-shaped (P)
(M) frosty, arching,
ovate-lanceolate
‘Royal Standard’ 18–24in × 3–9 White, trumpet- Rich green, broad, Tolerates full sun
38–48in shaped, large, cordate to ovate, and deep shade,
fragrant, 3–4ft scapes puckered, deeply veined, vigorous, RHS
(M–L) wavy margins Award
‘Sagae’ 20–30in × 3–9 Pale purple, bell- Green-glaucous, Large plant, 2000
36–72in shaped, 3–5ft scapes boldly edged creamy- AHGA Award, good
(M) yellow, veined, form, vase-shaped
ovate-lanceolate-cordate (P), RHS Award
‘Samurai’ 18–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, Blue-green, Part to full shade
(sieboldiana) 36in 30–36in scapes (M) yellow-edged
‘Shade Fanfare’ 18–24in × 3–9 Lavender, funnel- Light green, creamy- Floriferous, RHS
18–36in shaped, 2ft scapes white edges, wavy Award
(M) margins, cordate
sieboldiana 24–36in × 3–9 White, faint lilac Deep gray-green, very Interesting seedpods
36–48in flush, bell-shaped, 3ft large, pointed, ribbed
scapes (M) and quilted, white edges,
cordate

Hosta 275
USDA
Zone
s. var. elegans 24–36in × 3–9 White, hint of lilac, Deep bluish green, thick, The standard perfect
36–48in trumpet-shaped, wavy, puckered, deeply hosta (P), RHS
40–48in scapes (M) veined, rounded Award
‘Snow Flakes’ 8–12in × 22in 3–9 Deep violet and Grayish green, white Floriferous
(sieboldiana) white, funnel-shaped, edges, thick, flat,
14–20in scapes (M–L) lanceolate, pointed
‘So Sweet’ 8–14in × 3–9 Lavender buds open Mid-green, creamy- 1996 AHGA Award,
12–20in white, funnel-shaped, white edges, wavy, good en masse, sun
14–20in scapes (M–L) glossy, ovate-lanceolate tolerant
‘Spilt Milk’ 15in × 48in 3–9 White, 20in scapes Bluish green, white to Unique look
(tokudama) (M) greenish white splashes
and streaks, cupped,
textured, cordate
‘Stiletto’ 6in × 12in 3–9 Lavender, purple Mid-green, creamy- Dwarf, erect,
stripes, fragrant, 12in white edges, very vigorous, good en
scapes (M–L) narrow-lanceolate, masse
rippled
‘Striptease 16–20in × 3–9 Violet, 2ft scapes (M) Yellow-gold, white 2005 AHGA Award,
(fortunei) 24in center, wide dark green vigorous (P)
edges
‘Sum and 24–36in × 3–9 Pale lavender, bell- Chartreuse to gold- 2004 AHGA Award,
Substance’ 36–72in shaped, 36–38in green, large, cordate, best in partial sun,
scapes (M–L) ribbed, puckered, glossy can get very large,
RHS Award
‘Sun Power’ 24–30in × 3–9 Pale lavender, 2–3ft Bright golden yellow, Vaselike, very sun
36in scapes (M) cupped, twisted, veined, tolerant, good gold
ruffled foliage
tardiflora 10in × 12in 3–9 Pale purple, darker Dark green, lanceolate, Good dwarf, good en
veins, funnel-shaped, thick, glossy, leathery, masse
14in scapes (L) veined
‘Tattoo’ 10in × 18in 3–9 Pale lavender, 10in Small, bright yellow, Unique look
scapes (E) wide light green edges,
each tattooed with a
green maple-leaf in
center
tokudama 12–18in × 3–9 White to pale Grayish blue, cup-
20–24in lavender, cup-shaped, shaped, yellow edges,
16–24in (M) wavy, cordate-rounded,
puckered, veined
t. f. aureonebulosa 16–18in × 3–9 White, urn-shaped, Edged blue-green, Slow-growing,
24–36in 2ft scapes (M) marked and striped dwarf, heavy
yellowish green, substance, slug
yellow center, resistant (P)
cup-shaped-round
t. f. flavocircinalis 14–18in × 3–9 White to pale Blue-green, yellow Dwarf, slow grower
24–48in lavender, 18–24in edged, puckered, (P)
scapes (M) ovate-cordate
‘True Blue’ 24in × 42in 3–9 Ivory-white, bell- Glaucous, ovate-cordate, Keeps color well in
shaped, 28in scapes pointed, puckered, thick, sun (P)
(M) veined, cupped

276 Houttuynia
USDA
Zone
undulata 12–24in × 3–9 Rich pale lilac, Creamy-white center, One of the most
42in arching, trumpet- dark green edges, common hostas,
shaped, 20–36in (M) spirally twisted, shiny, increases quickly
pointed, wavy margins,
lanceolate-elliptic or
ovate
u. var. 12–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, Dark green, broad Vigorous, sun
albomarginata 24–36in trumpet-shaped, 30in creamy edges, glossy tolerant, very
(syn. scapes (M) beneath, wavy, pointed, common
‘Albo-marginata’) lanceolate
u. var. undulata 12–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, funnel- Creamy-white center, RHS Award
(syn. ‘Variegata’) 24–36in shaped, 2ft scapes wavy green edges,
(M) twisted
ventricosa 20–36in × 3–9 Violet, dark veins, Rich dark green, broad, Slug resistant, RHS
36in nodding, bell-shaped, glossy, prominently Award
30–36in scapes (M) veined, cordate-ovate,
wavy margins, ribbed
v. var. 18–30in × 3–9 Violet-purple, bell- Dark green, yellow- Slow-growing, leaf
aureomaculata 36in shaped, 45in scapes white edges and stripes tips twist
(M) aging to deep green in
summer
venusta 3–7in × 10in 3–9 Lavender-violet, Mid-green, glossy Dwarf, good en
trumpet-shaped, reverse, veined, wavy, masse, rock garden
8–14in scapes (M–L) ovate to cordate plant, RHS Award
‘Wide Brim’ 18–24in × 3–9 Pale lavender, funnel- Dark to mid-glaucous Big plant, vigorous,
36in shaped, 2ft scapes green, yellow edges RHS Award
(M) tinged white, cordate,
puckered, wide
‘Zounds’ 16–20in × 3–9 Pale lavender-blue, Bright golden green, One of the best
36–48in funnel-shaped, metallic sheen, glossy-leaf types
24–30in scapes (M) puckered, cordate, thick,
cupped
HOUTTUYNIA Saururaceae
Dog’s breath? Let’s take it on faith, some common names get a bit personal. The foliage ranges
in description from evil-smelling to dirty-citrus; but it’s the look, not the scent, we grow this for.
The cordate leaves are very attractive, and the variegated form is wildly colored. Contain this
plant or grow it as a water plant in pots on the edge of a pond. Never plant it in heavy clay soil on
the edge of a natural water body; you will never be able to get rid of it. Look for the double-flow-
ered form. It grows a bit taller and seems less aggressive. Leaves are edible and used like spinach,
but do we really want to get that close to dog’s breath? This is actually a good plant for us, but we
don’t consider it fully hardy. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After Dutch naturalist Maarten Houttuyn (1720–1798).

Common Name: Dog’s breath.
Origin: Himalaya to Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, moisture-retentive soil. Likes it moist, even in shallow water.

Houttuynia 277
Houttuynia cordata
‘Chameleon’.
Light: Part shade to sun. Full sun produces best leaf color on variegated form.
Management: Hard winter frosts can cut them back; otherwise keep them in check by digging
around them and removing any roots that have gone beyond their assigned area. They tend
to deteriorate by midsummer, particularly in times of high temperature; cut down in autumn
as plant goes down. Bait for slugs in early spring as they can nearly eat them down.
Propagation: Division in April and August (why would you want to?).
Companions: Persicaria, carex, other water plants, and other invasive plants. Best in that
constrained spot at the base of a rockery, where they can’t go far.
Notes: Be careful where you place this plant—it is invasive and can run to a nearly infinite (∞)
extent.
USDA
Zone
cordata 6in × ∞ 5–9 White, insignificant, Dark green edged in red,
shaped like a cross, thick, cordate
cone-shaped center
(M)
c. ‘Chameleon’ 6in × ∞ 5–9 As above Multicolored, yellow Good foliage plant,
and red variegation over stress it out for best
green base leaf color
c. ‘Flore Pleno’ 6in × ∞ 5–9 Double white, cone- Green, tinged with Taller stems, don’t
shaped center (M) purple allow to dry out

278 Iberis
IBERIS Brassicaceae
Candytuft provides us with a generous display of white

flowers from late winter to early summer. Plants are
compact and shrubby, with shiny, dark evergreen foliage;
they are used as edgers, in rockeries, cascading over rocks
and walls, or as a groundcover. Iberis sempervirens is a long-
lasting cut flower, good for tussy mussies. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek iberis (“from Iberia”).

Common Name: Perennial candytuft.
Origin: Central to southern Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, alkaline, well-
drained, and moist. Tolerates drought and poor soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: Shear and shape lightly after blooming
to stimulate new growth and maintain compactness.
Fertilize lightly after shearing. Fall trimming will result
in no spring bloom.
Propagation: Best from seed; cuttings from softwood and
semi-mature shoots; I. sempervirens cultivars must be
Iberis sempervirens. propagated by cuttings.
Companions: Bergenia, osmanthus, tulips, dicentra, aquilegia, alyssum, narcissus, aubrieta,
arabis.
Notes: Candytuft grows very well in our climate and seems to do fine in our more acidic soils.
Follow the management instructions; they really work!
USDA
Zone
gibraltarica 9–12in × 12in 3–9 White, fading to light Dark green Compact, dense
pink (E–M) subshrub
‘Golden Candy’ 6–8in × 10in 3–9 White (E) Golden green Short-lived
sempervirens (syn. 8–12in × 3–9 White clusters, Dark green, narrow, Candytuft, subshrub
commuta) 18in+ sometimes fades to shiny, leathery with open habit,
lilac or pink (E–M) RHS Award
s. ‘Alexander’s 10–12in × 3–9 White, dense clusters, Dark green Larger plant than
White’ 18in+ heavy bloomer (M) type
s. ‘Purity’ 8–10in × 3–9 White, larger (E) As above Compact,
18in+ long-blooming
s. ‘Schneeflocke’ 8–12in × 3–9 White, larger, in Dark green, broader, RHS Award
(syn. ‘Snowflake’) 18in+ larger clusters (E–M) more leathery
s. ‘Weisser Zwerg’ 6–8in × 10in 3–9 White, small (E–M) Very dark green Dwarf, slow-growing
(syn. ‘Little Gem’)

Incarvillea 279
Incarvillea arguta.
INCARVILLEA Bignoniaceae
Incarvillea delavayi has an exotic, somewhat tropical appearance in flower, like a supersized snap-
dragon of the open-mouthed type. A rosette of pinnately lobed foliage makes the base of this species;
surprisingly bright pink or white tubular blooms are held above, on eighteen-inch flowering stems.
A plant for sandy soil, well amended with organic matter, in full sun. A surprise every time.
Incarvillea arguta is a different cat, growing in nature in limestone cliffs on rocks in dry
places. This species has many smaller, pinnate leaves and multiple flowering stems with pale
pink flowers. A charmer, and a natural for the rock garden.
All forms of incarvillea resent being crowded in the garden or wet in winter (their roots rot in
waterlogged soil in winter). They are heavy feeders in the summer, one cowpat per I. delavayi.
~ Carrie Becker
USDA
Zone
arguta 3ft × 1ft 4–9 Pink and white, Dark green, pinnate, Woody base
tubular, pendent (M) with red stems
delavayi 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Rose-pink to purplish Mid-green, divided Clump-forming, good
with yellow and cut, good seedpods,
purple throat (E–M) tap-rooted
d. ‘Snowtop’ (syn. 2ft × 1ft 4–9 White (M) As above Tap-rooted
‘Alba’)
grandiflora 6–10in × 6in 4–9 Large rose-red with Dark green, deeply As above
yellow throat (E–M) divided, narrow and
wrinkled
olgae 2–4ft × 1ft 4–9 Pale rose-pink, Mid-green, narrow, Tap-rooted, many-
penstemonlike, in airy deeply divided stemmed, almost a
sprays (M–L) subshrub

278_321_TP.indd 279 1/10/07 4:18:51 PM
280 Inula
Scientific Name: After Pierre d’Incarville, French missionary and plant collector in China.
Common Name: Hardy gloxinia.
Origin: Southwest China, Central and East Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, deep, rich, well-drained, moist soil.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Plant approximately six inches deep depending on soil (deeper in light soils).
Management: This plant is tap-rooted and does not transplant well. Mulch against winter
cold. Avoid damaging thick, fleshy roots—mark their position during dormancy.
Propagation: Seed in spring or autumn (generally takes three years to flower); basal cuttings in
spring or early summer; division is not recommended.
Companions: Rehmannia, dwarf daylilies, primula, hosta, Geranium psilostemon, Molinia
caerulea ‘Variegata’.
INULA Asteraceae
The threadlike, yellow ray flowers are the most novel part of
this hardy perennial. Inulas like deep, rich soil and plenty of
summer water; they form large clumps over time and can even
seed about, which is rare in these parts for members of the
daisy family. They make a good cut flower but must be handled
carefully—their petals are very delicate. And watch out for
I. hookeri—it spreads aggressively. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Latin name for Inula helenium.

Common Name: Sunray, elecampane.
Origin: Asia, Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Any reasonable soil that is rich,
deep, well-drained, moisture-retentive, and fertile.
Planting: Larger species need lots of space.
Management: Low-maintenance plant. Cut back in fall
when leaves die. Give it a heavy mulch of organic matter
in winter. The taller ones may need staking. Do not let
them dry out as this can trigger powdery mildew—a
common syndrome with the daisy family.
Propagation: Seed in containers in cold frame in spring;
division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew (if too dry).
Companions: Ligularia, Iris pseudacorus, trollius,
aconitum, Potentilla recta ‘Sulphurea’, sanguisorba, Fili-
pendula ulmaria, Carex elata, Miscanthus sinensis.
Inula helenium.

Iris 281
USDA
Zone
ensifolia 2–4ft × 1ft 4–8 Golden yellow, Dark green, narrow, Swordleaf inula,
darker center, 1–2in sword-shaped, hairy bushy, vigorous,
(M–L) rhizomatous
helenium 4–6ft × 3ft+ 4–8 Bright yellow, 3in Coarse, mid-green, Elecampane,
(M–L) ridged, hairy stems with rhizomatous
a slight gold cast
hookeri 1½–2½ft × 4–8 Greenish yellow, Mid-green, hairy, Spreads aggressively,
2ft+ extremely narrow lanceolate to small oval usually needs
petals, buds covered staking, prefers
with shaggy hairs, shade
scented, 3in (M)
magnifica 6–8ft × 2½ft 4–8 Deep golden yellow, Dark green, large, broad, Needs lots of space,
yellow center, large, rough, brownish hairy spreads slowly, good
5–6in (M) stems winter interest
orientalis (syn. 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Yellow-orange, Mid-green, lanceolate, Rhizomatous, makes
glandulosa) narrow and shaggy hairy thick stands
rays with raised
central disk, 2–3in
(M)
royleana 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–8 Yellow-orange, Mid-green, white Will not tolerate dry
darker center, beneath, large, broad, on soil, clump-forming
narrow petals, black long stalks
in bud, 3–5in (M–L)
IRIS Iridaceae
Iris is one of the larger genera of herbaceous perennials. From tiny I. cristata to the flamboyant
Pacific Coast Hybrids, they fit into any color scheme. Like all members of the family Iridaceae,
Iris sibirica ‘Silver Edge’.

278_321_TP.indd 281 1/10/07 4:18:52 PM
282 Iris
A sea of Siberian irises,

including Iris sibirica
‘Chilled Wine’
(background).
irises have flower parts in threes and pointed, straplike leaves. The stiff, vertical leaves of all
irises are a very distinctive feature and an important element in garden design, lending drama,
exclamation, and motion. Irises make a good, strong visual statement in any garden, and are a
common theme in art, religion, and even flags. They have worked their way into our culture.
We have grouped irises into three main categories, beardless, bearded, and crested. The beard-
less I. foetidissima and its variegated form are particularly wonderful landscape and garden plants;
leave their seedpods on for a fall and winter show of brilliant berries. Many of the Pacific Coast
Hybrids, also beardless, are grown from division; others are raised from seed. Buy them in bloom if
you can, but watch out for the gaudy newer ones from California breeders: they seem not to be as
hardy. Every year brings new colors, color combinations, and shapes in the bearded iris category,
which has a loyal following; most sales are mail order.
Slugs are always a problem for all irises; early baiting will help a great deal. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After the Greek goddess of the rainbow.

Common Name: Flag.
Origin: China, Korea, Japan, Russia, Algeria, North Africa, Europe, North America, Britain.
Group 1. Beardless. Beardless irises mix easily with ordinary border plants. Plant rhizomes
just below the surface in well-drained, moisture-retentive soil that has a neutral to slightly
acid pH. Some will grow in standing water; others are drought tolerant. Most prefer sun
but tolerate part shade. Can have a light mulch (except for I. foetidissima, which wants no
mulch). They form dense, often circular clumps that do get very large and very old; they are
best split up and divided every third or fourth year and replanted in rejuvenated soil. Note:
Dig and divide the Pacific Coast Hybrids after the first fall rain, just as the new roots begin to
grow, a critical time.
Group 2. Bearded. Bearded irises are difficult to use with other plants. Plant so the rhizome
is only halfway in soil, which should be well-drained, fertile, and with a neutral to slightly
278_321_TP.indd 282
Iris 283
acid pH, in sun. Do not mulch over or next to the rhizomes. Bearded irises usually have
broad fans of sword-shaped leaves; most have multiple flowers per stem in a large range
of colors, with prominent standards and falls and a beard of white or colored hairs in
the center of each fall. Keep them moist during the active growth period but dry during
dormancy. Avoid heavy or waterlogged soil and high nitrogen fertilizer. Every three to four
years (or when then become congested, or begin to bloom less), dig and divide on or around
1 September; cut leaves back to four to five inches in a triangular or fanlike effect.
Group 3. Crested. The crested iris has a crest or ridge on each fall instead of a beard. They
prefer sun to part shade in well-drained, moist, humus-rich soil. Can have a light mulch
(except for I. japonica, which can be mulched normally). Keep moist during dormancy.
Propagation: Seed; division.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs (especially I. germanica, I. sibirica, I. japonica, I. unguicularis,
and I. cristata), crown rot, root rot.
Companions: Meconopsis, primula, hosta, aquilegia, paeonia, Helleborus orientalis, ligularia,
camassia.
Notes: Iris sibirica seedpods can be left for fall interest.
USDA
Zone
chrysographes 1½–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Dark black-purple to Gray-green, narrow, Group 1, many
reddish purple, gold straplike, vertical cultivars, usually
penciling on falls, with “black” in the
fragrant (E–L) name, divide in early
fall, RHS Award
cristata 4in × 6–8in 4–9 Light blue to lilac, Light bright green, Group 3, crested
yellow and orange arranged in fans, dwarf iris, many
crests, white throat gracefully arched cultivars, clumps will
(E) spread to 3ft, divide
in fall, RHS Award
douglasiana 1–2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Red, purple, lavender, Dark green, arching, Group 1, evergreen,
blue, cream, or white, stiff, glossy, red at base, vigorous, makes large
marked with gold, ribbed, taller than the colonies, divide in
blue or purple (E–M) flower stems fall, RHS Award
ensata (syn. 2–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Purple to red-purple, Bright green, narrow, Group 1, Japanese
kaempferi) violet, blue, or white, erect iris, vigorous, will
yellow blotches, grow in water, divide
darker veins, flat, in spring, RHS Award
saucerlike (E)
e. ‘Cry of Rejoice’ 32in × 24in 4–9 Pale blue, yellow As above Group 1, divide in
blotches (M) spring
e. ‘Darling’ 32in × 24in 4–9 Soft lilac-rose (M) As above As above
e. ‘Gracieuse’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White, edged in As above As above
purple-lilac, purplish
veining (M)
e. ‘Jodlesong’ 32in × 24in 4–9 Purple-red (M) As above As above
e. ‘Variegata’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Dark purplish blue, Variegated creamy- As above, RHS Award
yellow streaks on falls white and gray-green,
(E–M) fades in summer
‘Florentina’ 2ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pale grayish white, Grayish green, ribbed, Group 2, orris root,
bluish sheen, yellow spreading fans divide in fall, RHS
beard, very fragrant Award
(E–M)
Perennials_I-L_TP.indd 283 12/7/06 6:22:25 PM

284 Iris
USDA
Zone
foetidissima 1½–2ft × 2ft 6–9 Lilac, tinged yellow- Dark green, arching, Group 1, stinking
green, veined dull glossy, lanceolate iris, large seedpods
purple (M) with orange seeds,
self-sows, evergreen,
divide in spring,
vigorous, RHS Award
f. var. citrina (syn. f. 2–2½ft × 2ft 6–9 Yellow, brown veins Dark green, glossy, Group 1, green
chinensis) (M) broad seedpods, orange
seeds, vigorous,
evergreen, divide in
spring
f. ‘Variegata’ 1½ft × 2ft 5–9 Rarely produced Variegated or striped Group 1, rarely fruits,
(E–M) ivory and grayish green, evergreen, divide in
lanceolate spring, RHS Award
germanica 8–24in × 3–9 Almost all colors and Glaucous, lanceolate, in Group 2, German iris,
18in combinations (E–M) a fan divide in fall, RHS
Award
graminea 8–16in × 5–9 Rosy-purple and Green, thin, upright Group 2, grass-leaved
10–12in violet, blue falls, iris, divide in fall,
fragrant (E–M) drought tolerant,
RHS Award
‘Holden Clough’ 2–2½ft+ × 4–9 Buff with maroon Rich green, coarse, Group 1, divide
3ft veins (M) ribbed, swordlike anytime, RHS Award
japonica 1½–2½ft × 7–9 White or pale Dark green, straplike, Group 3, divide in
1½ft lavender-blue, frilly broad fans, glossy spring, RHS Award
(E–M)
j. ‘Variegata’ 1ft × 1½ft 7–9 White, pale lavender White and green striped As above, RHS Award
tints (M)
laevigata 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Deep bluish purple, Mid-green, narrow, Group 1, water iris,
1½ft+ yellow mid-stripes smooth will grow in water,
(M) divide in spring,
good seedpods, RHS
Award
l. ‘Variegata’ 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Paler bluish purple White and green striped Group 1, good
1½ft+ (M) seedpods, divide in
spring, RHS Award
Pacific Coast 8–24in × 4–9 Large range, white, Dark green, narrow, Group 1, evergreen,
Hybrids (syn. 10–18in cream, yellow, bronze, rose base good seedpods,
California Hybrids) rose, lilac, purple, doesn’t like lime,
frilled and veined, or divide in fall
smooth and silky (M)
pallida 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Soft blue, yellow Gray-blue-green Group 2, semi-
beard, conspicuous evergreen, erect,
papery silver bud- divide in fall
covering, fragrant
(E–M)
p. ‘Argentea 2–2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Light lavender-blue, Gray-blue-green, white Group 2, divide in
Variegata’ fragrant (M) variegation fall, less vigorous
p. ‘Variegata’ (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Lavender-blue, Creamy-yellow and Group 2, stronger
‘Aurea’) fragrant (E–M) green striped than above, divide
in fall

Iris 285
USDA
Zone
pseudacorus 3–5ft × 3ft+ 4–9 Bright yellow, brown Rich green, coarse, Group 1, self-sows,
or violet markings (E) ribbed, swordlike, very French flag (fleur-
vertical de-lis), vigorous
spreader (cultivars
not as much), will
grow in water, divide
anytime, RHS Award
p. ‘Alba’ 3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pale creamy-white, As above Group 1, vigorous
yellow patches, edged spreader, divide
pale purple (E) anytime
p. var. bastardii 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pale yellow (E) As above As above
p. ‘Flore Pleno’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Double yellow (E) As above As above
p. ‘Roy Davidson’ 34in × 2ft+ 4–9 Yellow, brown veins As above As above, named for
(E) a Seattle gardener of
note
p. ‘Variegata’ 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Yellow, brown Creamy yellow and Group 1, divide
markings on falls (E) green stripes aging to anytime, RHS Award
green, tends to fade out
in summer
pumila 4–8in × 6in 4–9 Blue, purple, yellow, Gray-green, swordlike Group 2, dwarf, needs
or white, beard lime, divide in fall
yellow, white, or blue,
fragrant (E)
×robusta ‘Gerald 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Violet-blue, purple- Mid-green, purple Group 1, good in
Darby’ flushed stems (E–M) bases, striking spring shallow water, divide
growth spring or fall
setosa 10–18in × 3–9 Blue to purple, blue Gray-green, red-tinted Group 1, divide in fall,
10–12in and violet, white at base RHS Award
center, darker veins
(M)
sibirica 2–4ft × 3ft 4–9 Wide range, blue- Green, grasslike, Group 1, Siberian
violet, darker veins, reddish base, narrow iris, very adapt-able,
white marking, dark brown seedpods,
drooping falls (E) divide in spring, RHS
Award
s. ‘Baby Sister’ 18–14in × 3–9 Sky-blue, white Green, grasslike, narrow Group 1, divide in
18in signals (E) spring
s. ‘Blue King’ 32–42in × 3–9 Light to mid-blue (E) As above As above
36in
s. ‘Butter and Sugar’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 4–9 White standards, As above Group 1, erect, divide
ivory falls (E) in spring, RHS Award
s. ‘Caesar’s Brother’ 2–3ft × 2½ft 4–9 Deep violet-blue, Good rich green, narrow Group 1, erect, divide
velvety (E) in spring
s. ‘Cambridge’ 34–36in × 3–9 Turquoise-blue As above Group 1, divide in
30in falls, paler standards spring, RHS Award
(E–M)
s. ‘Chilled Wine’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Claret (E) As above Group 1, erect, divide
in spring
s. ‘Ego’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Dark purplish As above Group 1, divide in
lavender (E) spring

286 Iris
USDA
Zone
s. ‘Ewen’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Wine-red, velvety, As above As above
creamy markings
(E–M)
s. ‘Flight of 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Pale violet-blue, Rich green, very narrow Group 1, slow to
Butterflies’ 1½ft darker blue veins, increase, tight
very small (E–M) clumps, divide in
spring
s. ‘Forrest McCord’ 3ft × 2ft 3–9 Dark blue falls, gold Green, narrow, grasslike Group 1, divide in
signals, thin white spring
margins (E)
s. ‘Fourfold White’ 3½–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Bone-white, yellow- Strong green, grasslike As above
gold spot at base of
falls (E)
s. ‘Orville Fay’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Bright mid-blue, dark As above As above
veining (E–M)
s. ‘Papillon’ 3ft × 2ft 3–9 Light blue, spotted As above As above
white (E–M)
s. ‘Ruffled Velvet’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Red-purple, darker As above As above, RHS Award
ruffled falls, black and
gold center, velvety
(M)
s. ‘Shirley Pope’ 34–36in × 3–9 Purplish red, purple Dark green, grasslike As above, RHS Award
2ft veins, white signals,
black buds (E–M)
s. ‘Showdown’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Red-purple, white Green, grasslike Group 1, divide in
signals, velvety spring
(E–M)
s. ‘Silver Edge’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Sky-blue, silver edge As above As above, RHS Award
(E–M)
s. ‘Sky Wings’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Pale sky-blue, yellow As above Group 1, divide in
sheen and markings spring
(E–M)
s. ‘Snow Queen’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 White, yellow near As above As above
center (E–M)
s. ‘Sparkling Rose’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Soft pinkish mauve, Green, narrow, grasslike As above
yellow bases, purple
veins (E–M)
s. ‘Tycoon’ 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Deep violet-blue As above As above
(E–M)
s. ‘White Swirl’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White, yellow bases, As above As above, RHS Award
ruffled, large (E–M)
spuria 3–5ft × 3ft 4–9 Large range, violet- Blue-green, narrow, Group 1, tolerant of
blue, purple, lilac, swordlike, very vertical heat, divide in spring
yellow, or white, some
veined and edged (M)
tectorum 1–1½ft × 4–9 Violet-blue, white Dark green, broad, Group 2, roof iris,
1½ft+ beard and darker blue ribbed, lanceolate, divide in spring
veins, ruffled edges glossy semi-evergreen
(E–M)

Jasione 287
USDA
Zone
t. ‘Variegata’ 10–18in × 5–9 Lavender-blue (M) Green with white Group 2, divide
12in+ stripes in spring,
semi-evergreen
tenax 8–12in × 7–9 Blue, lavender-blue, Deep green, narrow, Group 1, Pacific Coast
18in+ dark violet, pink, red-tinged bases, makes iris, semi-evergreen,
white, yellow marks, large colonies divide in fall
fragrant (E–M)
unguicularis 1–2ft × 2ft 7–9 Pale lavender-blue, Dark green-gray, tough, Group 1, winter iris,
dark violet, pink, grasslike evergreen, untidy
white, yellow marks, foliage, divide after
fragrant (L–E, betw. flowering, RHS
Sept. and Apr.) Award
versicolor 2–3ft × 3–9 Violet, purple, Glaucous, purple-tinged Group 1, blue flag,
1½–2ft lavender-blue, white at base, narrow grows in both shallow
veins, white and water and the border,
yellow center (E–M) divide in fall
JASIONE Campanulaceae
Sheep’s bit is subtle and herblike, a low-growing clump of pubescent, lanceolate leaves with many
erect stems. The flowers are lavender-blue in a globose head atop each stem. It is best planted in
little groups and not crowded by neighbors, in rock gardens or in lower-growing combinations
in the foreground. Seems to be short-lived. This stoloniferous charmer has the same flower color
as Aster ×frikartii, a good color echo. They make fine if small-scale cut flowers, best shown in
old-fashioned pansy vases. ~ Carrie Becker
Jasione laevis ‘Blaulicht’

with Ballota pseudodic-
tamnus.

288 Jeffersonia
Scientific Name: Greek name for another plant.

Common Name: Sheep’s bit, shepherd’s scabious.
Origin: Mediterranean, Asia Minor.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, well-drained, sandy, and lime-free.
Light: Sun. Tolerates a little shade.
Management: Cut off spent flowering stems. Cut down in winter but leave basal leaves.
Propagation: Seed in cold frame as soon as ripe, or in autumn; take cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs on young growth.
Companions: Santolina, nepeta, Ajuga metallica ‘Crispa’, smaller deschampsias, Ophiopogon
planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’, scabiosa, Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta, small campanulas, Aster
×frikartii, A. sedifolius.
USDA
Zone
laevis (syn. 12–18in × 12in 3–9 Blue-lilac, stiff collar Grayish green, slightly Clump-forming,
perennis) of bracts (M) hairy, lanceolate stoloniferous
l. ‘Blaulicht’ (syn. 12–18in × 12in 3–9 Violet-blue, stiff As above Clump-forming,
‘Blue Light’) collar of bracts (M) new cultivar from
Germany
JEFFERSONIA Berberidaceae
Jeffersonia diphylla is one of the great American woodland plants. There is something ethereal
about both species: their two-lobed scalloped leaves narrow as they reach the almost invis-
ible stem and seem to be floating in the air; their flowers—a striking blue in J. dubia, white in
Jeffersonia diphylla.

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Kalimeris yomena ‘Shogun’.
278_321_TP.indd 289 12/12/06 10:23:49 AM

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Zone
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Kirengeshoma palmata Koreana Group.
278_321_TP.indd 290 12/12/06 10:24:01 AM

Knautia 291
USDA
Zone
palmata 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Pale yellow, waxy Clear green, maplelike Clump-forming,
petals on purplish RHS Award
black stems, nodding
(M–L)
p. Koreana Group 4–5ft × 2ft 4–9 Lighter pale yellow, Light green, maplelike Clump-forming
flowers more open,
out- or up-facing (M)
KNAUTIA Dipsacaceae
Knautia macedonica, the only species we commonly use, has long-blooming pincushion flower
heads of garnet blossoms. It looks best against a strong background or with its long wiry stems
coming up through shrubby plants. This short-lived plant does seed about a bit too much if happy;
the seeds fall quite quickly, even while still green. It’s a good cut flower for fresh arrangements,
and the bees love it. Dried seedheads are interesting in floral arrangements. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: For German doctor and botanist Christoph Knaut.

Common Name: Macedonian scabious.
Origin: Central Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, well-drained, alkaline soil. Tolerates drought once
established.
Light: Sun.
Knautia macedonica.
278_321_TP.indd 291
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Kniphofia ‘Modesta’.
278_321_TP.indd 292 12/12/06 10:25:09 AM

Kniphofia 293
Kniphofia ‘Primrose
Beauty’ with Geranium
‘Ann Folkard’ and
Delphinium elatum.
Management: Most clumps will do well for up to ten years undisturbed, except for K. caule-
scens, which benefits from being split every three or four years. This does make them
difficult to divide; any large clump gets quite congested, and after lifting, the roots may need
to be washed before taking the clump apart. It is best to leave the leaves alone until spring,
when a general tidying up can be done and damaged leaves can be removed; carefully peel
them away, one by one. Cut out flower spikes as far down as possible after bloom. Watch for
engulfing and overcrowding and check underneath for dead foliage and slugs on a regular
basis; removing rotting leaves prevents disease from spreading throughout the crown.
Mulch in autumn with leaves or straw. Surface mulch with manure in the spring to fertilize.
Keep manure away from crown.
Propagation: Seed in containers in cold frame (cultivars seldom come true from seed); divide
established cultivars in late spring (clean up and cut back foliage by about one-third so they
are easier to handle); bulbous offsets can be planted in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Stem or crown rot, slugs, cutworms in spring—hand removal is best.
If violet crown rot appears, remove the plants as soon as possible—roots and all—to the
garbage, not the compost pile.
Companions: Lilies, yucca, helenium, perovskia, berberis, hemerocallis, monarda, dahlia,
agapanthus, crocosmia, coreopsis, achillea; they look magnificent in large groups from a
distance.
Notes: Kniphofias are evergreen perennials for us; do not hard cut back these plants in the
Pacific Northwest: in our shorter and cooler season they need all those leaves for growth and
health. Kniphofia caulescens has green seeds and is usually grown from seed.
USDA
Zone
‘Alcazar’ 3–3½ft × 2ft 5–9 Salmon spires, tinged Green, lanceolate Good rebloomer
orange-red, from
chartreuse buds (M)
‘Bee’s Sunset’ 2½–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Soft yellowish orange Green, narrow, toothed RHS Award
fading to bronze-
yellow (M)

278_321_TP.indd 293 1/10/07 4:18:53 PM
294 Kniphofia
USDA
Zone
‘Border Ballet’ 2–4½ft × 2ft 5–9 Mixed cream to pink, Green, lanceolate Good mix
hot coral, yellow, and
orange (M–L)
‘Bressingham 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–9 Red-tipped, orange, Green, narrow, grasslike Strong plant
Comet’ fading to yellow,
green buds at top
(M–L)
caulescens 2–4ft × 2½ft 5–9 Soft coral-red fading Gray-green, finely Handsome foliage,
to pale greenish toothed, purple at base, trunklike stem, do
yellow, chubby flower fully evergreen, remove not cut back, RHS
heads (M–L) only dead foliage Award
‘Earliest of All’ 1½–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Coral-rose to orange- Gray-green, lanceolate Very early
red upper, yellow
below (E–M)
‘Little Maid’ 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Pale green in bud, Green, grasslike, short, Clump-forming,
1½ft opening to pale stiff, tinted with reddish RHS Award
yellow, aging to ivory orange
(M–L)
‘Modesta’ 2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Pink buds, open to Green, more refined Dwarf
cream and coral, pink
overcast (M)
‘Percy’s Pride’ 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Large green, tinted Deep green, straplike Vigorous, good
yellow in bud, opens rebloomer
to creamy yellow-
green (E–L)
‘Pfitzeri’ 3ft × 2ft 5–9 Bright shades of Green, stiff, narrow, Good cut, old
orange, red, and grasslike cultivar
yellow (M–L)
‘Primrose Beauty’ 3ft × 2ft 5–9 Pale primrose-yellow Green, lanceolate Deadhead to prolong
to canary-yellow as bloom through
flower opens (M–L) summer
rooperi (syn. ‘C. M. 4ft × 2ft 5–9 Orange-red buds, Dark green, lax Last to flower, dense
Prichard’) open to yellow- clumps
orange (M–L)
‘Shining Sceptre’ 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Clear golden yellow, Green, stiff, lanceolate Vigorous
becoming ivory (M–L)
‘Springtime’ 3ft × 2ft 5–9 Coral-red, lower Green Two-toned
half is creamy ivory
(M–L)
‘Sunningdale 2½–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Bright yellow, light As above RHS Award
Yellow’ yellow below (M)
‘Toffee Nosed’ 3ft × 2ft 5–9 Burnt apricot, lower Green, narrow Long-flowering,
half is cream (M) RHS Award
triangularis 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Reddish orange to Green, grasslike Clump-forming, thin
soft orange with wiry stems
flaring lobes (L)
t. subsp. triangularis 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Orange, thin flowers Green, narrow, grasslike May be the hardiest
(syn. galpinii) and heads (L)
uvaria (syn. 3–5ft × 2ft 5–9 Red in bud, opens Gray-green, finely Red hot poker,
Tritoma uvaria) to orange, fading to toothed, coarse, stiff, floppy
yellow (M–L) untidy, fully evergreen

Lamium 295
Lamium orvala.
LAMIUM Lamiaceae
Lamium, or deadnettle as it’s commonly called, has long been valued as a groundcover in shady
areas and may best be used en masse between taller shade plants, especially in among trees and
shrubs in the less formal parts of the garden as a weed-excluding or living mulch. It’s a sturdy
plant and will grow almost anywhere, forming mats of green or gray-green hairy leaves, often
with beautiful silvery stripes, veins, and blotches. A few have gold to chartreuse markings. The
flowers are produced in whorls and vary from red, purple, and pink to yellow or white. The
trailing stems will take root wherever they touch ground, but the runners are shallow and easy
to remove. Be careful they don’t overgrow more delicate plants.
Some forms spread more vigorously than others, to the point of being invasive. Lamium galeob-
dolon ‘Hermann’s Pride’ is not invasive. Lamium galeobdolon (yellow archangel) is extremely inva-
sive in our woods. Do not let it escape. This is also true of straight L. album, to which L. a. ‘Friday’
can revert—watch out! ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name for this plant.

Common Name: Deadnettle, spotted deadnettle.
Origin: Europe, North Africa, western Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moisture-retentive, average garden loam. Tolerates poor
soil. Does not like to dry out.
Management: Hand-shear, using either scissors or pruners, in midsummer to encourage
a dwarf, compact form and to clean up its weary growth habit. Shear off old leaves and
runners in late winter before new growth starts. Cut back after the first flush of flowers to
keep neat, or just mow it down (our favorite method). Dig out excess rooted rhizomes to
confine the spreading.

296 Lamium
Lamium maculatum ‘Aureum’ lights up a border with help from Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii,
Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’, Brunnera macrophylla ‘Hadspen Cream’, and variegated hosta and salvia.
Design by Rick Kyper.
Propagation: Seed in containers; divide anytime.

Pests and Diseases: Downy mildew, powdery mildew, leaf spot, snails, slugs, crown rot (under
hot and humid conditions).
Companions: Under trees and shrubs with pulmonaria, spring bulbs, dicentra, asarum, helle-
borus, hosta, ferns, Iris foetidissima, polygonatum, smilacina.

Lamium 297
USDA
Zone
album 1–2ft × 2ft 3–9 White in false whorls, Gray-green, softly hairy, White deadnettle,
hairy (E–M) ovate and pointed, weedy, not suitable
round-toothed margins for the border
a. ‘Friday’ 12–18in × 3–9 White (E–M) Central patch of gold Taller than most
2½ft surrounded by 2 shades cultivars, spreads,
of green reverts to green
galeobdolon (syn. 1–2ft × 3ft+ 3–9 Yellow in whorls, Mid-green with silver Yellow archangel,
luteum) brown-spotted, hairy, markings, diamond or invasive
2-lipped (E–M) heart-shaped, toothed
g. ‘Hermann’s 10–12in × 3–9 Yellow (E–M) Silver with dark green Not invasive,
Pride’ 24in veins clumping
g. subsp. montanum 12in × 24in 3–9 As above Silver-centered with Less invasive,
‘Florentinum’ (syn. green edges sometimes reverts
‘Variegatum’)
maculatum 8–12in × 3–9 Reddish purple, white, Gray-green, pointed, Spotted deadnettle,
36in+ or pink (E–M) triangular or rounded, vigorous
often mottled or zoned
silver, white, or pink,
scallop-edged
m. ‘Album’ 8–12in × 3–9 White (E–M) Mid-green, zoned white
36in+
m. ‘Aureum’ 4–8in × 36in+ 3–9 Light pink-mauve Bright yellow with Don’t allow to
(E–M) paler white mid-stripes dry out, shelter
from direct sun,
weak-growing
m. ‘Beacon 6–10in × 3–9 Clear rose-pink Silver, narrowly Mildew prone,
Silver’ (syn. 36in+ (E–M) margined green, requires shade
‘Silbergroschen’) speckled with purple
blotching (caused by
disease)
m. ‘Beedham’s 6–8in × 36in+ 3–9 White (E–M) Chartreuse to golden
White’
m. ‘Chequers’ 6–8in × 36in+ 3–9 Deep purplish pink Dark green with silver Vigorous
(E) center
m. ‘Pink Nancy’ 6–8in × 24in+ 3–9 Deep pink to shell- Silver-coated edged in
pink (E–M) green
m. ‘Pink Pewter’ 6–12in × 3–9 Soft pink (E–M) Silver-gray edged in Semi-evergreen
24in+ greenish gray
m. ‘Red Nancy’ 4–6in × 3–9 Dark rose (E–M) Silver, narrowly
24in+ margined in green
m. ‘Roseum’ (syn. 6–10in × 3–9 Light pink (E–M) Green, central silvery Slow-growing,
‘Shell Pink’) 36in+ blotch, heart-shaped semi-evergreen
m. ‘White Nancy’ 4–8in × 36in+ 3–9 White (E–L) Silver, narrowly Tolerates sun if kept
margined green moist, invasive, RHS
Award
orvala 15–24in × 3–9 Pinkish purple, Dark green, glossy, Noninvasive,
18in maroon-spotted ovate-triangular, clump-forming
throat, large (E–M) toothed
o. ‘Album’ 15–18in × 18in 3–9 White, large (E–M) As above As above

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USDA
Zone
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278_321_TP.indd 298 12/12/06 10:55:43 AM

C\lZXek_\dld )00
Leucanthemum
×superbum ‘Alaska’.
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278_321_TP.indd 299 12/12/06 10:56:54 AM

300 Leucanthemum
Companions: Achillea, nepeta, echinacea, rudbeckia, allium, heliopsis, grasses.

Notes: As cut flowers they can smell a bit of the old gym locker—admire from a distance. Look
for a new yellow cultivar from England.
USDA
Zone
×superbum (syn. 3ft × 2ft 4–9 White with yellow Dark green basal leaves, Shasta daisy, may
Chrysanthemum center, 3–4in (M–L) lanceolate, toothed, need support, good
maximum) glossy cut, clump-forming
×s. ‘Aglaia (syn. 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 White with a crested Green, deeply toothed Long-blooming,
‘Aglaya’) white center, frilly, deadhead for repeat
double or semi- bloom, RHS Award
double, 3in (E–L)
×s. ‘Alaska’ 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 White with yellow Green, heavy Deadhead for repeat
center, single, shaggy, bloom
4in (M)
×s. ‘Cobham Gold’ 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Creamy-white Green Flower is a bit shaggy,
2ft with yellow tints, not quite as yellow
pale yellow raised
central crest, double,
2½–3in (M)
×s. ‘Esther Read’ 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Double white with Dark green, smaller Long-blooming,
2ft+ pale yellowish short-lived
center, 2½in (M–L)
×s. ‘Marconi’ 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Double white, frilly, Green
4in (M–L)
×s. ‘Polaris’ 3ft × 3ft 4–9 Single white, 5in (M) Green, larger Good cut, very tall,
largest flower
×s. ‘Silber- 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Single white with Green, smaller Dwarf, bushy,
prinzesschen’ yellow center, 2in long-blooming
(syn. ‘Silver (M–L)
Princess’)
×s. ‘Snow Lady’ 10–15in × 18in 4–9 Single white with Green, oval-lanceolate, 1988 All-America
yellow center, 2in deeply toothed Selection, dwarf, fast-
(M–L) growing, blooms first
year from seed
×s. ‘Snowcap’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 As above Green Dwarf, compact,
long-blooming if kept
deadheaded
×s. ‘Summer 2½ft × 2ft 4–9 Very double white, Rich green Good cut
Snowball’ fluffy, no yellow
center, 2½in (M–L)
×s. ‘T. E. Killin’ 2½–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Semi-double white, Green Good cut, RHS
yellow center, 4–6in Award
(M)
×s. ‘Wirral Pride’ 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Double white, crested As above Good cut
pale yellow center,
shaggy, 3in (M)
vulgare (syn. 1–2ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Single white with Deep green, toothed, Tough, invasive
Chrysanthemum yellow center, 1½in spoon-shaped
leucanthemum) (E–M)
v. ‘Maikönigin’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 White with yellow Green, toothed The seed-grown
(syn. ‘May Queen’) center, 1½–2in Shasta daisy
(E–M)

C`Xki`j *'(
Liatris spicata
‘Floristan Violett’.
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278_321_TP.indd 301 12/12/06 10:58:05 AM

302 Libertia
Notes: In the Pacific Northwest liatris must be sited in a full-sun border. Our often misty
July rain will get the flower stems soaking wet and lying on the ground; either stake or
plant them among others to lean on. Liatris spicata can take a more moist soil than
L. pycnostachya.
USDA
Zone
pycnostachya 3–5ft × 1½ft 4–9 Purplish mauve, pink, Dark green, narrow, May need support,
sometimes white grassy, hairy stems short-lived, good cut
(M–L)
spicata 2–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Purplish pink (M–L) Dark green, narrow, Long-lasting, drought
grassy, hairless stems tolerant, good cut
s. ‘Alba’ 2½–4ft × 4–9 White, fluffy (M–L) As above Long-lasting, drought
1½ft tolerant
s. ‘Floristan Violett’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Violet-purple (M–L) As above As above
s. ‘Floristan Weiss’ 3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Creamy-white, fluffy As above As above
(syn. ‘Floristan (M–L)
White’)
s. ‘Kobold’ (syn. 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Deep rosy-purple (M) As above Drought tolerant
‘Goblin’) 1½ft
LIBERTIA Iridaceae
The two libertias are alike in their thick, upright, straplike leaves and three-petaled white
flowers. The difference is in the color and arrangement of the leaves. The dull green leaves of
L. formosa are in a cluster. The bright orange leaves of L. peregrinans are arranged in a stiff,
straight line as they spread by short rhizomes; they glow when backlit by the sun. Both have
attractive seedheads, and both are somewhat tender, L. peregrinans particularly so (and in my
experience, it does not flower as abundantly); I keep one or two in pots to overwinter with
protection, and let the rest march on. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After Belgian botanist Marie A. Libert.

Common Name: New Zealand satin flower.
Origin: Chile, New Zealand.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, moisture-retentive.
Resents drying out.
Management: Remove leaves when they become damaged or look aged. Divide and replant
after several years when the clumps become congested.
Propagation: Division in spring as new roots start to grow; seed as soon as ripe.
Companions: Nepeta, sedum, bronze carex, haloragis.

Libertia 303
Libertia formosa.
USDA
Zone
formosa (syn. 3ft × 2ft 8–10 White, small, stiff Mid-green, dense, Evergreen, brownish
chilensis) stems (E–M) sword-shaped seedheads
peregrinans 1½ft × 1½ft 8–10 White, starry (E–M) Bright orange fading to Evergreen
pea-green

278_321_TP.indd 303 1/10/07 4:30:56 PM
304 Ligularia
LIGULARIA Asteraceae
One of the great late-summer plants—truly, one could make

an entire summer garden using solely members of the daisy
family. Ligularias are bold specimen plants that form large
masses of lush foliage topped by showy flowers. Planted
en masse, they never fail to amaze visitors. The yellow or
yellow-orange blossoms are produced in tall corymbs or
racemes on erect stems. The leathery leaves, usually dark
green, are rounded or kidney-shaped; some grow to two
feet across. These big plants need space and plenty of water.
~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin ligula (“strap”), referring

to the strappy ray flowers.
Common Name: Golden groundsel (L. dentata).
Origin: China, Japan, central and eastern Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, well-cultivated, humus-
rich, well-drained, moist, cool soil. Shelter from strong
winds.
Light: Part shade. Too much shade will turn the purple
leaves of L. dentata ‘Desdemona’ and L. d. ‘Othello’
green. Tolerates sun if grown in cool and wet conditions
in heavy soil; in full sun they suffer from heat wilt but
will recover in the coolness of evening.
Management: A low-maintenance plant. Will benefit from
soil amendments—mulch and fertilize. Water deeply
during dry spells. Can be deadheaded, but if stems are
left until late winter they pull away easily, not damaging
new foliage. Cut back in fall as leaves die back. This
Ligularia dentata ‘Othello’.
plant is a slug trap, particularly in early spring: to keep
foliage looking good, bait for slugs regularly!
Propagation: Seed for the species; division in spring.
Companions: Grasses, ferns, large hostas, Aruncus dioicus, telekia, petasites, Iris pseudacorus as
a foliage contrast, shrubby cornus, inula, rumex, Lysimachia ciliata ‘Firecracker’, Carex elata
‘Aurea’
Notes: Perfect conditions in the Pacific Northwest would be full morning sun and light after-
noon shade. Look for a new cultivar, L. dentata ‘Britt-Marie Crawford’, with even darker
leaves than L. d. ‘Desdemona’.

Ligularia 305
Ligularia dentata with Verbena bonariensis, Canna ‘Wyoming’, and Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’.
USDA
Zone
dentata (syn. 3–4ft × 3ft 3–9 Daisylike, orange- Red, aging purplish Clump-forming
clivorum) yellow, brown center, dark green, purple
in corymbs, maroon- reverse, prominent
black stems (M–L) veins, kidney-shaped to
rounded, leathery, 12in
d. ‘Desdemona’ 3–4ft × 3ft 3–9 Daisylike, orange- Dark purplish bronze, More compact and
yellow, in corymbs, aging to more metallic refined, one of the
dark purple stems greenish purple, purple best cultivars, RHS
(M–L) reverse and stems, Award
leathery, 10in
d. ‘Othello’ 3–4ft × 3ft 3–9 As above Deep purplish green Blooms later than L.
above, purple-red d. ‘Desdemona’
reverse, 10in

278_321_TP.indd 305 1/10/07 4:30:58 PM
306 Linaria
USDA
Zone
‘Gregynog Gold’ 5–6ft × 3ft 3–9 Daisylike, vivid Green, cordate, toothed, RHS Award
golden orange, brown wavy, veined, 14–20in
center, in conical
corymbs (M–L)
japonica 6ft × 3ft 3–9 Bright yellow-orange, Green, deeply dissected,
in corymbs (M) 2ft
×palmatiloba 5–6ft × 3ft 3–9 Daisylike, yellow- Green, round to cordate, A very large plant
orange, in racemes jagged-edged, 2ft
(M)
przewalskii 4–6ft × 2ft 3–9 Yellow, small, in Dark green, palmately Golden ray, RHS
racemes, dark lobed, toothed, lighter Award
purplish black stems reverse, 10in
(M–L)
sibirica 4½–5½ft 3–9 Yellow, in racemes, Dark green, rounded,
× 3ft black stems (M) wavy-edged, deeply
toothed, pointed ends,
12in
‘The Rocket’ 4–6ft × 2ft 3–9 Yellow, in 2ft Dark green with Long-blooming, RHS
racemes, purple- purple veins, ebony Award
black stems (M) reverse, toothed and
cut, rounded-cordate,
leathery, 10in
wilsoniana 5–6ft × 2ft 3–9 Golden yellow, in Dark green, rounded- Giant groundsel,
racemes (M–L) cordate, 16in woolly seedheads
LINARIA Scrophulariaceae
Toadflax is an old cottage garden plant that looks delicate but is actually quite sturdy and very
prolific. This tells us that it’s short-lived, self-sowing, and long-flowering. The usually soft
violet-blue flowers of L. purpurea are two-lipped, spurred, and resemble tiny snapdragons; all
forms have an orange spot on the lip. Linaria triornithophora has larger flowers, purple and
yellow, with longer spurs; it is more tender and difficult to grow (even though it runs) than
L. purpurea. Both are good plants for poor soil and bad locations, often popping up in stone walls
and seeding even in cracks in concrete. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek linon (“flax”), referring to the leaves, which are similar to
those of linum.
Common Name: Toadflax.
Origin: Spain, Portugal, Sicily, Italy.
Preferred Conditions: A warm spot with poor to ordinary, light, well-drained, sandy, moder-
ately fertile soil. Drought tolerant.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut back after bloom to foliage once or twice during the growing season for
repeat bloom. Plants can be moved only when very young as they form a taproot. Cut down
in fall or winter once dormant, or leave crown up and just remove spent flower stems.

Linaria 307
Linaria triornithophora.
Propagation: Division in spring; root cuttings; easy and best from seed.
Companions: Roses, stachys, allium, astrantia, pimpinella, Papaver rhoeas; the cottage garden.
Notes: As with many perennials that seed about into less than ideal spots, linarias can vary
greatly in size.
USDA
Zone
‘Natalie’ 2–3ft × 1ft 6–10 Lavender-purple Green with purple cast Sterile, nearly the
(M–L) perfect match of
flower color and
foliage
purpurea 2–3ft × 1ft 5–9 Violet-blue, purple, Glaucous, narrow, in Clump-forming,
pink, or lilac, whorls self-sows
sometimes with white
(M–L)
p. ‘Canon Went’ 2–4ft × 1ft 5–9 Pale pink (M–L) Bluish green, narrow, in Comes mostly true
whorls from seed, self-sows
triornithophora 3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Purple and yellow Glaucous, lanceolate, in Three birds flying,
with brownish purple whorls coarser, short-lived
spurs, sometimes in Pacific Northwest
pale pink or lavender
(M–L)

278_321_TP.indd 307 1/10/07 4:30:59 PM
308 Linum
Linum perenne.
LINUM Linaceae
The annual L. usitatissimum is used for flax fiber (linen), flaxseed, and linseed oil and is amazing
to see in flower—a landlocked sea of intense blue. The perennial forms of flax are grown for their
bright, funnel- to saucer-shaped flowers. Although white-flowered forms are available, it is the
blue ones that are most enchanting. This is a perfect example of a short-lived perennial that
blooms heavily in summer and will need to be replaced on a regular basis. We can usually get
three good years out of them, and in some gardens they will self-sow. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: The Latin word for flax.

Common Name: Flax.
Origin: Central and southern Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, light, well-drained, humus-rich soil. Tolerates
drought. Protect from winter wet.
Light: Sun.
Management: In late summer reduce the foliage by half, including flower stalks, to prevent
plant exhaustion from overblooming and extend the life of the plant (you can deadhead for
the same outcome). May rebloom until fall if deadheaded regularly, or prune back by half
whenever there’s a lull in blooming. (The gracefulness of the plant is lost with these tech-
niques, however.) Replant every two or three years (doesn’t like to be transplanted). Cut
down in fall or winter.
Propagation: Easy and best from seed in spring or autumn; difficult to divide (except for
L. narbonense).
Pests and Diseases: Cutworms, aphids, snails, slugs, painters and weavers.
Companions: Stachys byzantina, liatris, Scabiosa columbaria subsp. ochroleuca, Papaver atlan-
ticum; wherever a wilder look is desired.

Liriope 309
USDA
Zone
narbonense 1½–2ft × 4–9 Varies from pale Glaucous, narrow, Clump-forming,
1½ft to rich azure-blue, lanceolate short-lived,
small, white eye long-blooming
(E–M)
perenne (syn. 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Pale blue (E–M) Glaucous, needlelike, Common blue flax,
sibiricum) lanceolate, fine-textured clump-forming,
self-sows
p. ‘Blau Saphir’ 1ft × 1ft 4–9 Sky-blue (E–M) As above Self-sows
(syn. ‘Blue
Sapphire’)
p. ‘Diamant’ 1ft × 1ft 4–9 White (E–M) As above As above
LIRIOPE Convallariaceae
Lilyturf, as it’s commonly called, is not actually a grass but a member of the lily of the valley
family. The two species we are interested in here, L. muscari and L. spicata, have slightly different
growth habits. Liriope muscari generally forms a clump some eighteen inches wide. Liriope
spicata spreads rapidly by underground stems and will cover a wide area; it is therefore not suit-
able for an edging but is excellent for groundcover. In summer, spikes of small purple, violet, or
white flowers rise from the center of the arching, straplike foliage; flowers are followed by pea-
sized black berries. Plants themselves are similar in appearance and landscape use to mondo
grass (ophiopogon), which has finer-textured foliage and bears its flowers within the clumps
rather than above them, like liriope. ~ Susan Carter
Liriope muscari
‘Monroe White’.

278_321_TP.indd 309 1/10/07 6:30:13 PM
310 Liriope
Scientific Name: After the woodland nymph Liriope, the mother of Narcissus.
Common Name: Lilyturf.
Origin: China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Taiwan.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, moist, acid to neutral
soil. Drought tolerant once established and loves summer warmth. Shelter from cold and
drying winds.
Light: Shade to sun. Flowers best in sun.
Management: Liriope may become ragged with neglect after several seasons. If so, cut back to
ground in spring before new growth appears, or cut off damaged leaves (those with brown
tips) individually in spring. Never cut just the tips, it looks awful, and the leaves never look
good again. If there’s no winter damage, do not cut back.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, especially on new growth.
Companions: Aster divaricatus, brunnera, hosta, ferns, helleborus, arum; good for edging
(L. muscari) or massing under trees and shrubs (L. spicata).
Notes: Variegated forms seem to be more prone to winter cold and wind damage. In the mari-
time Northwest, all forms can burn in a hard winter (usually a wind burn when frozen).
USDA
Zone
‘Majestic’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 6–10 Dark violet, almost Dark green, narrow, Vigorous
purple (L) straplike
muscari (syn. 1–1½ft × 6–10 Dark violet-blue, in Dark green, glossy, Glossy black berries,
graminifolia, 1½ft whorls, looking more arching, straplike, long-blooming, RHS
platyphylla) like round fruit, on evergreen Award
purple-green stems
(M–L)
m. ‘Big Blue’ 1–1½ft × 6–10 Dark violet-blue, Dark green, wider, Glossy black berries
1½ft larger than species straplike
(M–L)
m. ‘Monroe White’ 1–1½ft × 6–10 White, last a long time Mid-green, straplike Best in part shade
1½ft with a bit of cover or
protection (M–L)
m. ‘Variegata’ 1–1½ft × 6–10 Violet buds and Cream, striped with As above
1½ft flowers (L) green, straplike
spicata 8–12in × 6–10 Pale violet, sometimes Dark green, arching, Creeping lilyturf,
1½ft+ white (M–L) narrow, straplike, tiny spreads rapidly
teeth, semi-evergreen (invasive), glossy
black berries, if
it looks ragged in
winter, cut back in
spring

Lobelia 311
Lobelia ×speciosa
‘Dark Crusader’ with
artemisia.
LOBELIA Campanulaceae
The perennial lobelias are relatively new to the herbaceous border and have brought us some
very intense colors on stately plants. American Indians used one species of this New World
genus, L. siphilitica, to treat syphilis. Lobelias grow quickly but are very short-lived (especially
so are the L. cardinalis and L. ×speciosa cultivars): heavy blooming and the formation of tight
crowns at ground level (which don’t form well if overgrown by other perennials) seem to be the
reasons for their brief life in the garden. They are good hummingbird and butterfly plants, but
some or all may tend to flop, so keep them up for the nectar lovers, eighteen inches or so, with
stakes or pea sticks. If used in arrangements, the cut end of the stem must be seared with a flame.
~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After Mathias de l’Obel, Flemish botanist and physician to James I of
England.
Common Name: Cardinal flower.
Origin: North America, Mexico, Chile.
Preferred Conditions: Wide range, from marshes and wet meadows to woodlands, mountain
slopes, and deserts. Humus-rich, moisture-retentive, well-drained soil. Likes it wet in the
spring but not too wet. Most don’t like to dry out.
Management: Divide regularly (every two years) to extend life of the plant; it rejuvenates
plants enough to allow them to survive until you divide them again. Stake and tie L. cardi-
nalis; its selection ‘Queen Victoria’ likes to be split every other year to prevent its dying out
in the middle (discard any of the central older portions). Lobelias are heavy feeders and can
be moved almost anytime. Cut to basal growth in fall; wait to cut back L. tupa until after its
fall color, leaving two- to three-inch stems to protect the crown. Mulch lightly in winter but
do not cover the crown. Slugs can be a very big problem on overwintering crowns, so bait
early in the spring.

278_321_TP.indd 311 1/10/07 6:30:19 PM
312 Lobelia
Propagation: Seed in spring; division in spring every two years (new basal shoots).
Pests and Diseases: Rust (on L. siphilitica), slugs.
Companions: Dahlia, tall ferns, aconitum, hemerocallis, grasses, Iris sibirica foliage; L. laxiflora
with heuchera and cotinus.
Notes: Lobelias will not survive in flooded ground in the Northwest.
USDA
Zone
‘Brightness’ 3ft × 1ft 4–9 Deep red inside, Deep green, shiny
rose-red outside,
velvety (M–L)
cardinalis 2–4ft × 1ft 3–9 Scarlet-red, reddish Green, narrow, Cardinal flower,
purple stems (M–L) lanceolate, toothed, North American
clump-forming native, constant
moisture, RHS Award
c. ‘Bees Flame’ 2½ft × 1ft 4–9 Bright crimson, Reddish purple Clump-forming
reddish purple stems
(M–L)
c. ‘Elmfeuer’ (syn. 3ft × 1ft 5–8 Deep red (M–L) Dark bronze-maroon, Clump-forming,
fulgens ‘Saint the best colored-foliage somewhat confused
Elmo’s Fire’) form in the trade
c. ‘Eulalia Berridge’ 1½ft × 1ft 4–8 Pink (M–L) Dark green Clump-forming
c. ‘Queen Victoria’ 3–5ft × 1ft 4–9 Scarlet-red (M–L) Dark purplish red, Treated as an annual
lanceolate, dark purple by some, short-lived,
stems RHS Award
c. ‘Rose Beacon’ 3ft × 1ft 4–9 Bright rose-pink Light green to gold Clump-forming
(M–L)
‘La Fresco’ 2½–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Dusky plum-purple, Mid-green Tendency to fasciate
large (M–L)
laxiflora 2ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Scarlet, yellow- Green, narrow, North American
orange throat, stems lanceolate, finely native, rhizomatous,
dull to bright red toothed semi-shrubby
(M–L)
l. var. angustifolia 2–3ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Coral outside, yellow Mid-green, narrow,
inside (M–L) lanceolate, finely
toothed
siphilitica 2–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Light to deep Bright green, coarse, U.S. native, self-sows,
blue, rarely white, toothed, lanceolate to tends to flop
purplish upper lip, oval
lower lip white
(M–L)
s. ‘Blue Selection’ 2–3ft × 1ft 3–8 Bright blue (M) As above Erect
×speciosa (syn. 3ft × 1ft 3–8 Reds, pinks, and Mid-green, flushed red, Very hardy,
×gerardii) purples (M–L) slightly hairy, lanceolate clump-forming
×s. ‘Dark Crusader’ 3ft × 1ft 4–9 Dark ruby-red, Burgundy-tinged green,
maroon stems (M–L) purplish silver tint
×s. ‘Fan Orchidrosa’ 18in × 9in 4–9 Deep rose, almost Bronzy dark green Upright, bushy habit,
(syn. ‘Fan Deep fluorescent pink RHS Award
Rose’) (M–L)

Lobelia 313
USDA
Zone
×s. ‘Fan Scharlach’ 18–24in × 9in 4–9 Scarlet-red, large As above Bushy habit, RHS
(syn. ‘Fan Scarlet’) (M–L) Award
×s. ‘Fan Tiefrot’ 18–24in × 9in 4–9 Rich deep red (M–L) As above As above, RHS Award
(syn. ‘Fan Deep
Red’)
×s. ‘Gladys Lindley’ 4ft × 1ft 4–9 Creamy-white Mid-green
(M–L)
×s. ‘Grape Knee-Hi’ 24in × 10in 4–9 Rich purple (M–L) Green
×s. ‘Kompliment 30in × 9in 4–9 Purplish blue (M–L) Bright green Clump-forming
Blau’ (syn.
‘Compliment Blue’)
×s. ‘Kompliment 30–36in × 9in 4–9 Scarlet (M–L) As above Upright, RHS Award
Scharlach’ (syn.
‘Compliment
Scarlet’)
×s. ‘Kompliment 30–36in × 9in 4–9 Deep dark red, As above Clump-forming
Tiefrot’ (syn. velvety (M–L)
‘Compliment Deep
Red’)
×s. ‘Kompliment 3ft × 9in 5–9 Dark violet-pink As above
Violet’ (syn. ‘Violet (M–L)
Compliment’)
×s. ‘Pink Flamingo’ 3ft × 1ft 4–9 Bright pink (M–L) Light green Upright, branching
×s. ‘Purple Towers’ 4–5ft × 1ft 4–9 Dark purple, velvety Mid-green
(M)
×s. ‘Ruby Slippers’ 3–4ft × 1ft 4–9 Dark ruby-red, Light green Long-blooming
velvety (M)
×s. ‘Russian 3ft × 1ft 4–8 Red-purple (M–L) Purplish green
Princess’
×s. ‘Sparkle DeVine’ 3–4ft × 1ft 4–9 Dark fuchsia with Light green
blue overtones
(M–L)
×s. ‘Tania’ 3–4ft × 1ft 4–8 Crimson-purple, Burgundy-green, broad, Needs lots of
velvety, large (M–L) burgundy stems moisture but not too
wet in winter
×s. ‘Vedrariensis’ 4ft × 1ft 5–9 Deep purplish violet Dark green turning
(M–L) reddish, lanceolate
tupa 5–6ft × 3ft 8–10 Brick-red, thick and Pale green, finely Subshrub, resents
fleshy stems (M–L) toothed, felted, disturbance, clump-
lanceolate forming but sprawls
‘Wildwood 3–4ft × 1ft 4–8 Rich amethyst- Mid to dark green
Splendour’ purple (M–L)

314 Lunaria
LUNARIA Brassicaceae
Lunaria rediviva is a bold, early spring presence; in fact, it

is blooming as most perennials are just coming into growth.
It is a large plant with rough, hairy stems and broadly trian-
gular toothed leaves. The pale lavender flowers are followed
by elliptical green seedpods, which turn white and papery.
Lunaria is difficult to transplant but self-sows fairly aggres-
sively. The seedheads are interesting, especially in fall (if
you cut back after flowering, you’ll never know this). This
is a very long-lived perennial but not as showy in seed as its
annual cousin. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Latin luna (“moon”), referring

to the seedpods.
Common Name: Money plant, silver dollar, honesty,
moonwort.
Origin: Europe, western Siberia.
Preferred Conditions: Ordinary fertile garden soil that is
well-drained, moisture-retentive, and cool.
Management: To avoid seedlings and to keep the plant
looking tidy, remove most flowering stems when seeds
are ripe. Cut to basal growth after leaves die in autumn.
Propagation: Best from seed (leave at least one or two
plants alone); the taproot makes it difficult to divide,
but division can be attempted in the fall; even the seed-
lings don’t like to be disturbed.
Pests and Diseases: Subject to a seriously disfiguring
if not fatal rust disease, which seems more likely to
Lunaria rediviva.
occur on light soils; cabbage white butterfly lay eggs on
leaves (remove by hand before they reduce the leaves to
tatters); mildew (in dry soil).
Companions: Helleborus, primula, hosta, Phlox stolonifera, pulmonaria, polygonatum, spring
bulbs, ferns; under tall shrubs or trees.
USDA
Zone
rediviva 2–3ft × 3ft 6–9 Pale lilac, fragrant Dark green, triangular Clump-forming, flat
(E–M) to heart-shaped, finely elliptical seedpods,
toothed silvery and
translucent

Clgèlj *(,
Lupinus Russell Hybrids

mixed with delphiniums
and Centranthus ruber.
CLG@ELJ GXg`c`feXZ\X\
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gXcdXk\]fc`X^\Xe[cfm\cpÕfn\ij#èm\ipèk\i\jkè^ZfcfiZfdYèXk`fej#n\i\_Xi[cpZfdg\ejX$
k`fe%K_\pn\i\gife\kfXg_`[jXe[d`c[\nXe[j\\d\[cXYfièk\ej`m\efklec`b\[\cg_è`ld
kfd\%K_\ÔeXcflkZfd\`jk_Xk@efcfe^\iîfnk_\d%@]@n\i\kfkipclgè\jX^Xè#@nflc[
îfnjg\Z`\jXe[j`k\k_\dXZZfi[è^kfk_\ìeXkliXc_XY`kXk#finflc[îfnfecpfe\fiknf#
n_`Z_nflc[i\[lZ\k_\\]]fike\Z\jjXipkf_Xm\k_\d%
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g\gg\i%E`kif^\eÔoè^#XjXi\Xccd\dY\ijf]k_`j]Xd`cp%8ccgXikjf]k_\gcXekXi\gf`jfeflj%
u:Xii`\9\Zb\i
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:fddfeEXd\1Clgè\%
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c`]\#[\X[_\X[Y\]fi\k_\Õfn\ijg`b\_Xj\m\eÔe`j_\[Ycffdè^%:lkYXZbkfj`[\Yl[j#kf
\eZfliX^\Xj\Zfe[Õlj_f]Ycffd%;fefk[`jkliYkXgiffk%;fefkc\kk_\d[ipflk1^`m\cfkj
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kli\%Clgè\jXi\_\Xmp]\\[\ijN_\ekfg$[i\jjè^n`k_dXeli\fiZfdgfjk#Xmf`[glkkè^
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Zcldgjè\Xicpjgiè^%
278_321_TP.indd 315 12/12/06 11:17:01 AM

316 Lychnis
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, downy and powdery mildew, snails, slugs, rust, stem rot.
Companions: Papaver orientale (both in terms of contrast of shape as well as color combina-
tions), Alchemilla mollis, Salvia nemorosa, S. ×superba, geranium; yellow lupine with Sisyrin-
chium striatum, anchusa.
Notes: The many cultivars are of garden origin and have been hybridized for color, height, and
stature. Choose for color and grow them for the pleasure of their brief presence.
USDA
Zone
Gallery Series 2ft × 1ft 4–9 Blue, pink, white, Green Shorter version of
yellow (M) Russell Hybrids
latifolius subsp. 2–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Blue (M) Mid-green aging to gray Alaskan lupine
parishii
Russell Hybrids 2½–5ft × 4–9 Blue, purple, yellow, Deep rich green, Long-blooming,
1½ft orange, red, pink, palmately lobed bushy
white, bicolors
(E–M)
Woodfield Hybrids 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Cream, yellow, Deep rich green, Mildew not as big a
peach to pale pink, palmately lobed problem
shades of red from
light to dark (E–M)
LYCHNIS Caryophyllaceae
Lychnis can be broken down into two groups by color of leaves and flowers. The gray-leaved,
pink- to magenta-flowered species are best grown and produce the best leaf color in poorer, dry
soils and full sun (except for L. flos-cuculi, which likes swampy soils and pond banks). They are
short-lived, or should be (any plant that self-sows this freely is telling you something). I have
really enjoyed growing L. flos-jovis, which is a much reduced and more gently colored cousin
of L. coronaria, only one and a half feet tall, max. It is easier to combine with other plants than
L. coronaria, does not self-sow as freely, and can just disappear from the garden after several
years. Get seed and direct sow for replacement plants.
The green- to burgundy-leaved, orange- to red-flowered species want a richer soil and more
water. They are even shorter lived (think annual). Actually, L. chalcedonica can live for several
years but doesn’t always. Lychnis ×arkwrightii and its cultivars ‘Orange Gnome’ and ‘Vesuvius’
all have larger flowers in some brightly colored version of orange and are great color additions.
Even if short-lived, I’d replant them to recreate the effect. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek lychnos (“lamp”), referring to the woolly leaves, which were
used for wicks.
Common Name: Rose campion, Maltese cross, ragged robin.
Origin: Russia, southern Europe, western Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile, ordinary garden soil that is well drained. Variable moisture
requirements, from moist to dry.
Light: Sun.
Management: The gray-leaved forms thrive on neglect; after about year three, pull out the
oldest plants in favor of the much more vigorous young plants—otherwise, the old ones
linger on in a deteriorating state until death. Remove faded flowers to promote continued

Lychnis 317
Lychnis coronaria with Geranium sanguineum, a selection of Erigeron glaucus, and Allium sphaerocephalon (in
bud), backed by Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’. Design by Michael Schultz.
Lychnis coronaria
Oculata Group.

278_321_TP.indd 317 1/10/07 6:31:57 PM
318 Lychnis
blooming and to prevent self-sowing. Cut flower stems out after flowering. If the plant looks
ratty after blooming, cut back hard to basal foliage. Lychnis chalcedonica may need support;
cut back to one foot after flowering. Bait for slugs.
Propagation: Division for cultivars and hybrids in spring or fall; seed—very easy; basal cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Cutworms. And all but L. coronaria are very susceptible to snails and slugs;
“loss of lychnis” may be entirely due to slug predation on young shoots at ground level.
Companions: Kniphofia, Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’, salvia, aster, centranthus, heuchera, arte-
misia, geranium, phygelius, miscanthus and other grasses, perovskia.
USDA
Zone
alpina 4–6in × 6in 4–7 Purplish pink or Dark green, lanceolate, Arctic campion, self-
white with frilled dense rosettes sows, mat-forming
lobed petals (E–M)
×arkwrightii 12in × 10in 6–8 Large, orange-red (M) Purplish bronze tinted Short-lived, stems
die back after
flowering
×a. ‘Orange Gnome’ 8in × 8in 6–9 Shocking red-orange Deep burgundy, ovate Short-lived,
(M) to lanceolate clump-forming
×a. ‘Vesuvius’ 12–18in × 6–8 Scarlet-orange, star- Brownish green, hairy As above
10in shaped (M)
chalcedonica 24–48in × 4–8 Small, scarlet, white, Mid-green, ovate, Maltese cross,
18in or pink, star-shaped, rough-textured, hairy, Jerusalem cross,
deeply cut, in flat- toothed self-sows, long-lived,
topped corymb (M) may need staking,
keep moist, weedy,
RHS Award
coronaria (syn. 18–36in × 4–9 Velvety magenta to Silver-gray, leaves Rose campion,
Agrostemma 12–18in deep crimson (M–L) and stems, lanceolate, mullein pink,
coronaria) woolly agrostemma, self-
sows, acts more like
biennial, drought
tolerant, RHS Award
c. ‘Alba’ 18–36in × 3–9 Single white, flush of Flannel-gray, woolly, Self-sows, RHS
12–18in pink (M–L) somewhat crinkled Award
c. ‘Angel’s Blush’ 18–36in × 3–9 Soft pale pink fading Silver, woolly, Open airy habit,
12–18in to white with cerise somewhat crinkled self-sows
eye (M)
c. Oculata Group 18–36in × 3–9 White with pink eye Silver-green, woolly Self-sows
12–18in (M)
flos-cuculi 30in × 24in+ 3–9 Deep rose-pink, Mid to bluish green, Ragged robin,
sometimes white, narrow, lancelike cuckoo flower,
ragged edges, in clump-forming,
corymbs (E–M) seeds aggressively
flos-jovis 12–18in × 3–9 Bright chalk-pink or Silver gray-green, leaves Flower of Jove,
12–18in white in corymbs (M) and stems, woolly, hairy, short-lived, self-
lance- to spoon-shaped sows, RHS Award
f. ‘Nana’ 8–10in × 3–9 Bright chalk-pink (M) Silver gray-green with Dwarf
10in shining silver hairs

Lysimachia 319
USDA
Zone
f. ‘Peggy’ 10–12in × 3–9 Bright rose-pink with Gray, felted Compact
10in white back and edges,
large (M)
×haageana 12–18in × 4–9 Orange, scarlet, large, Dark reddish purple, Keep moist, short-
12in on hairy, weak stems lanceolate, hairy lived, dies back after
(M) flowering
viscaria 12–18in × 3–9 Bright pink corymbs Dark green, maroon German catchfly,
12in on hairy, strong stems bands, shiny, sticky often evergreen
(E–M) stems, grasslike,
lanceolate
v. ‘Plena’ 16–18in × 3–9 Double carmine-pink Dark green, shiny, As above
12in (E–M) sticky stems, grasslike,
lanceolate
LYSIMACHIA Primulaceae
Not all members of the genus Lysimachia deserve the bad rap they get from the few black sheep
of the family (L. punctata, for example). To make matters worse, the common name loosestrife is
often confused with the unrelated noxious weed Lythrum salicaria, purple loosestrife.
Lysimachias have a wide range of growth habits, and most share the trait of spreading fairly
quickly. Some are invasive, and care with placement must be taken. Lysimachia ephemerum is
a tall, noninvasive species with white star-shaped flowers. As do most lysimachias, it also has
attractive foliage. Lysimachia nummularia, a short groundcover, is very easy to control: either
pull it out, or manure and mulch heavily over it in the area you don’t want it. Lysimachia atropur-
purea is difficult to control, but the leaves are a great color; you can try a barrier or a constricted
spot, but plants can march right through any shrub. Lysimachia ciliata ‘Firecracker’ runs further
and faster in loose soil than in clay, but its purple leaves combine beautifully with many plants
and are worth the effort. Lysimachia clethroides (gooseneck loosestrife, goose-goes-walking)
also has a vigorous habit, but the gracefully arched and tapered white blossoms are just too
beautiful to pass up. They are a good cut flower, too, and definitely worth finding a special spot
for. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After Lysimachos, king of Thrace.

Common Name: Creeping Jenny, loosestrife, gooseneck loosestrife.
Origin: China, Japan, Europe, North America, Korea.
Preferred Conditions: Adaptable to most conditions, but will bloom better in rich, moisture-
retentive, well-drained soil. In drier soil they are slightly better behaved and don’t spread
as fast.
Management: You may want to install a root barrier, or plant in pots to control spreading. You
can also dig and divide every few years to reduce their territory. Most are self-supporting
except L. ciliata, which can be very floppy. Cut back after flowering and during fall/winter
cleanup.
Propagation: Division; seed for L. ephemerum.
Pests and Diseases: Not usually bothered by much except some slug damage in early spring.

320 Lysimachia
Lysimachia punctata
‘Alexander’.
Lysimachia punctata ‘Alexander’ with Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’, Thalictrum delavayi ‘Hewitt’s Double’,
Alchemilla mollis, bergenia foliage, and Kniphofia ‘Primrose Beauty’.

Lysimachia 321
Companions: Heuchera, plantago, hosta, Siberian iris, Echinacea purpurea, rudbeckia, ligularia,
anthemis, grasses.
Notes: Variegated forms of L. punctata revert to green quite easily; keep watch. In the chart,
the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
atropurpurea 2–3ft × 1ft 7–9 Violet-red buds open Grayish blue, narrow Lax habit,
to maroon-purple short-lived
(M)
ciliata 3–4ft × ∞ 4–9 Light yellow, orange Mid-green, willowlike, Fringed loosestrife,
eye, nodding (M) good autumn color, hairy North American
leaves and stems native, rhizomatous,
invasive
c. ‘Firecracker’ 2½–3ft × ∞ 4–9 Lemon-yellow, wide, Emerges almost black, Runs but not as
(syn. ‘Purpurea’) nodding, out-facing then green invasive as species,
(M) RHS Award
clethroides 2–3ft × ∞ 4–9 Small, whitish, bends Narrow, grayish green, Clump-forming,
into gooseneck form hairless, leathery, red long-blooming, RHS
(M–L) stems, some fall color Award
c. ‘Geisha’ 2ft × 3ft+ 4–9 Long (1ft) white Green, creamy-yellow Not as aggressive as
gooseneck (M) margins, jagged species
ephemerum 3–4ft × 1½ft 6–9 White to gray-white, Grayish green, narrow, Clump-forming,
star-shaped, lilac hairless, leathery not invasive, good
center (M–L) seedheads, sun or
shade
minoricensis 1ft × 1ft 6–9 White (M) Gray-green, striking Short-lived
violet-veined rosettes
nummularia 2–4in × 3ft+ 3–9 Small, bright yellow, Deep green, small, Creeping jenny,
cup-shaped (E–M) rounded, glossy moneywort,
evergreen in mild
climates
n. ‘Aurea’ 2–4in × 3ft+ 4–9 Small, bright yellow, Golden yellow, rounded, Less invasive,
cup-shaped (M) glossy, often reverts to evergreen, turns
green brown in hot sun,
RHS Award
punctata 1½–3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Bright yellow whorls, Mid-green, lancelike, Yellow loosestrife,
star-shaped (M) coarse, softly hairy, stiff invasive, long
upright stems bloomer
p. ‘Alexander’ (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 Golden yellow Green, creamy-white Spring crowns have
‘Variegata’) whorls (M) variegation and margins, fantastic color
new growth tinged pink
p. ‘Golden 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–8 As above Golden variegated Do we need another
Alexander’ variegated thug?

*)) DXZc\XpX
Macleaya cordata.
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g_fid`ld%
322_384_TP.indd 322 12/12/06 11:29:56 AM

DXcmX *)*
Efk\j1K_`jgcXeknfibjY\jkèk_\^Xi[\e`]Xccfn\[kfileXYflk2j`dgcpi\dfm\n_\i\efk
e\\[\[finXek\[%@ek_\Z_Xik#k_\jpdYfcd4èÔe`k\jgi\X[%
USDA
Zone
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jldd\i%:lkYXZbkfZifneèXlklde%
GifgX^Xk`fe1J\\[2[`m`j`feèjgiè^Xe[YXjXcZlkkè^jè
jgiè^%
Malva sylvestris ‘Zebrina’.
322_384_TP.indd 323 12/12/06 11:31:15 AM

324 Marrubium
Pests and Diseases: Rust and fungal leaf spot. One method of rust control is to remove the first
crop of leaves in spring, infected or not.
Companions: Phlox paniculata, boltonia, coreopsis, veronica, phlomis, veronicastrum, Lysima-
chia ephemerum.
Notes: Plants will be small if kept too dry.
USDA
Zone
alcea 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Purplish pink (M–L) Light green, rounded, Hollyhock mallow,
divided long-blooming, self-
sows, erect, bushy
a. var. fastigiata 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Soft clear pink (M–L) Light green, rounded, Long-blooming,
divided weedy, self-sows,
erect, bushy
moschata 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Pale pink (M–L) Mid to dark green, Musk mallow, tap-
cordate, deeply divided, rooted, bushy
musk-scented
m. f. alba 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Pure white, fading Mid-green, deeply cut, White musk mallow,
pinkish (M–L) lightly aromatic self-sows, bushy,
RHS Award
m. rosea 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Satiny pink (M–L) Mid-green, musk Pink musk mallow
scented, deeply cut
sylvestris 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Pinkish purple with Dark green, small, Cheeses, erect to
darker purple veins rounded, lobed, bushy spreading, weedy,
(E–L) subshrubby
s. Marina = ‘Dema’ 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Dark violet-blue, Deep green Subshrub, dark
dark purple veins flower
(M–L)
s. ‘Primley Blue’ 2½–3½ft × 4–9 Pale violet-blue, Dark green, rounded, Weedy, subshrubby,
1½ft purple veins, lobed more prostrate
beautiful color (E–L)
s. ‘Zebrina’ 3–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Deep pink or white As above Striped mallow, self-
with purple veins sows, subshrubby,
(M–L) weedy
MARRUBIUM Lamiaceae
Members of the mint family, horehounds are grown for their interesting gray foliage, which
makes them fine foils for many other plants. Wet winters are their only trial. The entire flowering
plant of M. vulgare is considered medicinal when fresh; the flowering branches are medicinal
when dried. Horehound tea is still regarded as a cure for colds in certain countries (including the
United States) and is commonly used in liqueurs and aperitifs. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name. Some say the Latin derives from the Hebrew
marrob (“bitter juice”); it is one of the bitter herbs eaten at the feast of Passover.
Common Name: Horehound.
Origin: Europe, Italy, Sicily, Greece.
Perennials_M-Physalis_TP.indd 324 12/7/06 6:23:36 PM

DXiilY`ld *),
Marrubium vulgare.
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USDA
Zone
Zpcc\e\ld (-Æ(/è -Æ0 :i\Xdpp\ccfn Jf]kjX^\$î\\e# Jgi\X[è^
(/è èk`^_kn_ficj# ifle[\[#jZXccfg\[#
èj`ê`ÔZXekD nffccp
èZXeldjpe% (-Æ)'è *Æ(' GXc\c`cXZ#Xcdfjk >iXp$î\\e#n_`k\]\ck\[ Jgi\X[è^#\m\iî\\e
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ifkle[`]fc`ld +Æ('è('è ,Æ(' N_`k`j_#èj`ê`ÔZXek GXc\î\\e#jgffe$ ?fi\_fle[#j`cm\i$
D j_Xg\[#]\ck\[# \[^\[#dXk$]fidè^#
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mlc^Xi\ (/è(/è *Æ/ JdXcc#n_`k\# >iXp#j`cbp N_`k\_fi\_fle[
èj`ê`ÔZXekD
322_384_TP.indd 325 12/12/06 11:32:20 AM

*)- D\Zfefgj`j
Meconopsis betonicifolia.
D<:FEFGJ@J GXgXm\iXZ\X\
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p\ccfnXe[fiXe^\gfgg`\jîfnè^k_ifl^_flkk_\ìnff[cXe[^Xi[\e%@ZXi\]lccp[l^X]\n
iffk\[g`\Z\jXe[kffbk_\d_fd\#Zf[[c\[k_\dkf\ejli\k_\ìi\Zfm\ip#Xe[èj_fikfi[\i
@nXji\nXi[\[YpXeèmXj`fef]D%ZXdYi`ZXèdpfne^Xi[\e%Fm\ik_\èk\im\eè^p\Xij#@
c\Xie\[kfb\\gk_\d[\X[_\X[\[kfgi\m\ekj\c]$jfnè^2Y\è^hl`k\g\i\ee`Xck_\pe\\[ef
i\gcXZ\d\ekgcXekj%@XcjfjXnè]i`\e[jË^Xi[\ejk_\cfm\cpD%ZXdYi`ZXÊ=iXeZ\jG\iipËXe[
D%Z%ÊDli`\c9ifneË#Yfk_f]n_`Z__Xm\i\[Õfn\ijXe[[fefkj\\dkfj\c]$jfndlZ_`]XkXcc2
Ê=iXeZ\jG\iipË`jjè^c\jfd`^_kgif[lZ\m`XYc\j\\[#YlkÊDli`\c9ifneË`j[flYc\Xe[i\glk$
\[cpjk\i`c\gifgX^Xk\]ifdYXjXcjk\dZlkkè^j %
Jfd\n_XkcXk\i#@_X[k_\^ff[]fikle\kfXZhlì\D%Y\kfe`Z`]fc`X%K_\cfm\cpjbp$Ycl\Õfn\ij
f]k_\?`dXcXpXeYcl\gfggpîXZ\[dpfnenff[cXe[]fig\i_XgjÔm\p\Xijlek`cXjldd\i
f] èjl]ÔZ`\ek nXk\iè^ b`cc\[ `k% DXep fk_\i cfm\cp i\cXk`m\j f] d\Zfefgj`j Xi\ dfefZXig`Z#
d\Xeè^k_\pYcffd#j\kj\\[#Xe[[`\2k_\pfle^\ik_\gcXekjXi\n_\ek_\pYcffd#k_\dfi\
c`b\cpk_\pXi\kfZfdgc\k\cp[`\XnXp]ifdk_\\]]fik%
@]k_\g\i\ee`Xc]fidjdXb\Õfn\iè^jk\djk_\Ôijkp\Xi#i\dfm\k_\d%8jk_\Zifnej^\k
cXi^\i#n`k_ZXi\Xe[k`d\#pflZXec\kk_\dYcffd#Xe[èk_\ZXj\f]D%Y\kfe`Z`]fc`X#D%îXe[`j#
Xe[D%j_\c[fe``#k_\gcXekjn`ccjkXpXifle[]fiXn_`c\%;fefkc\kk_\d[ipflkèjldd\i#Xe[
fi^Xe`ZdXkk\ièk_\jf`c`jZi`k`ZXc%E\m\iYlipk_\Zifnej%
@e k_\ Ôijk p\Xi# c\X] ifj\kk\j fe k_\ dfefZXig`Z ]fidj j\\ Z_Xik Xi\ Y\Xlk`]lc è nèk\i
Xe[jgiè^#jf^`m\k_\djfd\iffdkfY\j\\e%8cjf#k_\pj\\dkfi\j\ekfk_\igcXekjY\è^kff
Zcfj\#jf[feËkZifn[k_\d%K_\Y\Xlk`]lcZi\g\[gfggpÕfn\ijn`cci\nXi[pflèj_X[\jf]gXc\
p\ccfn#[\\gi\[#m`fc\k#Xe[Ycl\#[\g\e[è^fen_`Z_pflîfn%u:Xii`\9\Zb\i
322_384_TP.indd 326 12/12/06 11:34:23 AM

D\Zfefgj`j *).
Meconopsis cambrica ‘Muriel Brown’, Tropaeolum majus foliage, and Rumex sanguineus var. sanguineus backed
by ‘Atropurpurea Nana’ berberis; the warm theme is continued by Tanacetum coccineum, Lychnis chalcedonica,
and a good red geum. Design by Rick Kyper.
JZ`\ek`ÔZEXd\1=ifdk_\>i\\bd\ZfeÈgfggpÉ Xe[fgj`jÈc`b\É #è[`ZXkèî\j\dYcXeZ\%

:fddfeEXd\1N\cj_gfggp#?`dXcXpXegfggp%
Fi`^è1?`dXcXpX#:_èX#n\jk\ie<lifg\#K`Y\k#NXc\j%
Gi\]\ii\[:fe[`k`fej1Df`jk#Zffc#_ldlj$i`Z_#[\\g#n\cc$[iXè\[#Xe[e\lkiXckfjc`^_kcpXZ`[
jf`c%J_\ck\i]ifd\oki\d\#Zfc[#[ipè^nè[j%Gifk\Zk]ifd\oZ\jj`m\nèk\in\k#Ylk[fefk
c\kgcXekj[ipflk%
C`^_k1GXikj_X[\kfgXikjle%
GcXekè^1:ifnejj_flc[Y\c\m\cn`k_k_\jli]XZ\f]k_\jf`c%
DXeX^\d\ek1Efkk_\\Xj`\jkgcXekjkfîfnflkj`[\f]k_\i`^_kZfe[`k`fej\oZ\gk]fi
D%ZXdYi`ZX#n_`Z_`jefkXj[\dXe[è^Xe[k_i`m\jèdfjkZfe[`k`fej %DlcZ_n`k_ZfXij\
fi^Xe`ZdXk\i`XcZfdgfjknflc[Y\Y\jk #Xcfe^n`k_dXeli\Ylkefkfm\ik_\Zifne %
NXk\i[liè^[ipjg\ccjèk_\jldd\i%D\Zfefgj`jY\kfe`Z`]fc`Xj_flc[efkY\Xccfn\[
322_384_TP.indd 327 12/12/06 11:34:35 AM

328 Meconopsis
to flower the first year; it must be established, with several crowns, before flowering.
Meconopsis cambrica requires regular deadheading to keep the self-sowing under control.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe (best from seed); divide after flowering (tricky).
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, downy mildew, damping off of seedlings.
Companions: Pulmonaria, dicentra, hosta, helleborus, polygonatum, arisaema, geranium,
heuchera; the woodland garden.
Notes: The blooms of M. cambrica have the fragrance of a banana popsicle.
USDA
Zone
betonicifolia (syn. 2–4ft × 1½ft 5–8 Varies from sky-blue Light bluish green with Himalayan blue
baileyi) to lavender-blue, fine rust-colored hairs, poppy
yellow stamens, toothed, cordate bases
saucer-shaped, 3–4in
(E–M)
b. var. alba 2ft × 1½ft 5–8 White, yellow As above Weaker plant
stamens, saucer-
shaped, 3–4in (M)
cambrica 1–2ft × 1ft+ 6–9 Bright lemon-yellow Clear green, divided, Welsh poppy, deep
or orange, cup- hairy taproot, self-sows
shaped, tissue papery,
single, 2–2½in (E–L)
c. flore-pleno 2ft × 1ft 6–9 Double yellow or As above Not as vigorous as
orange, cup-shaped, the species
2–2½in (M–L)
c. ‘Frances Perry’ 2ft × 1ft 6–9 Deep rich orange- Green, divided, hairy Self-sows mildly if
(syn. ‘Rubra’) red, single, yellow at all
stamens, cup-
shaped, 2in (M–L)
c. ‘Muriel Brown’ 2ft × 1ft Double red, 2in Clear green, divided, Sterile, sets a few
(E–L) hairy seeds
grandis 3–5ft × 1½ft 5–8 Varies from rich blue Mid to dark green with Monocarpic in dry
to purplish red, dark reddish brown hairs, conditions, erect,
yellow center and toothed replant every 3 years
stamens, saucer-
shaped, 5–6in (E–M)
horridula 2–3ft + × 6–8 Pale to deep blue Mid gray-green, hairy, Monocarpic, winter
1½ft or red, cup-shaped, prickly, wavy edges, rosette of leaves
2–3in (M) elliptic to lanceolate
h. ‘Slieve Donard’ 3ft × 1½ft 7–8 Rich blue, pointed As above Winter rosette of
petals, cup-shaped, leaves, vigorous, RHS
2–3in (M) Award
napaulensis 3–8ft × 2ft 8–9 Pink, red, purple, Yellow-green, red Satin poppy,
blue, yellow, white, bristles, deeply cut, monocarpic, hairy
cup-shaped, 2½–3in rosettes seedpods, sets lots of
(E–M) seed
×sheldonii 3–5ft × 1½ft 7–8 Pale to rich blue, Dark green rosettes, More perennial than
cup-shaped, 2½–4in hairy, toothed, elliptic- most
(E–M) oblong to lanceolate
villosa 2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Clear yellow, dark Green, deeply lobed, Monocarpic, winter
yellow stamens, fernlike, bronze hairs on rosette of leaves,
nodding, 1½–2in (E) leaves and stems short-lived

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322_384_TP.indd 329 12/12/06 11:35:30 AM

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322_384_TP.indd 330 12/12/06 11:36:27 AM

Meum 331
MEUM Apiaceae
A rare plant seldom seen for sale, M. athamanticum is worth

finding for the foliage alone. The leaves are finely divided
and very similar to common fennel but have a richer, darker
grass-green color. Like parsley in color (if you count white
a color), meum’s display of small, white flowers is a brief
but noticeable event. Worth a trip to England, being sure
your windowsill in London faces north, a day of washing
the soil of roots, having Linda wait for the inspector, and
lots of spritzing at Heathrow. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Obscure. The Greek name for an herb,

possibly M. athamanticum.
Common Name: Baldmoney, spignel.
Origin: Western and central Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, moist, well-
drained, lime-free soil.
Management: Undemanding. Cut back in fall once it
begins looking tired. Watch for slugs in spring.
Propagation: Usually from seed as soon as ripe; divide in
spring, though taproots make this difficult.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, especially on new
growth.
Companions: Alchemilla, Gentiana lutea, aconitum,
astilbe, chaerophyllum, Brunnera macrophylla ‘Jack
Frost’.
Meum athamanticum.
USDA
Zone
athamanticum 1–2ft × 1–1½ft 5–8 Tiny, white with Fennel-like, deep green Darkest of all the
purple tinge, umbels fine-leaf foliage
(M) plants

332 Mimulus
Mimulus lewisii.
MIMULUS Scrophulariaceae
Monkey flowers grow just about anywhere as long as it’s moist; some even grow in standing
water. The flowers are snapdragonlike, with five lobes (the bottom two lobes are much larger);
the back of the flower is tubular or funnel-shaped. Flowers occur in a variety of colors and are
often spotted or blotched in contrasting colors. Mimulus, though short-lived in the garden,
works very well as a container plant and is very attractive to hummingbirds. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin mimus (“mimic”), referring to the flowers, which resemble a
grinning monkey’s face.
Common Name: Monkey flower.
Origin: South America, South Africa, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moist, and average to fertile soil. Protect from heat and
drought.
Management: Water freely in the growing season and keep moist in the winter. Apply a small
amount of balanced fertilizer monthly. Add organic matter to drier soils to help with mois-
ture retention. Cut back once plants begin to look scraggly. Some may need staking with pea
sticks to keep them from flopping. Mulch in winter.
Propagation: Division in spring; cuttings in early summer; usually from seed in autumn or
early spring.

Monarda 333
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, whiteflies, spider mites, aphids, slugs.

Companions: Ligularia, ajuga, Carex elata, Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, darmera, Primula
florindae; small ditches, edge of small waterfall.
Notes: These are probably best classified as annuals in the Pacific Northwest.
USDA
Zone
guttatus (syn. 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 Bright yellow with Mid-green, coarsely Invasive, upright
langsdorffii) red spots at throat or sometimes deeply or semi-prostrate,
(M) toothed watery stems
g. ‘Richard Bish’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 Bright yellow (M) Green variegated Invasive but
short-lived
lewisii 2–2½ft × 4–9 Deep rose-pink, Mid-green, finely Clump-forming,
1½ft yellow throat toothed tolerates drier
spotted with purple, conditions, Pacific
sometimes white (M) Northwest native,
RHS Award
luteus 1ft × 1–2ft 7–9 Golden yellow with Green Invasive, self-sows,
large red blotches on can be grown in
throat (E–M) water (3in deep)
ringens 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Violet-blue, narrow Mid to dark green, Upright, thrives in
(M) lancelike, toothed shallow water (6in
deep), self-sows
MONARDA Lamiaceae
A member of the mint family, monarda grows wild throughout eastern North America. Monarda
didyma, named Herb of the Year in 1996, was used by the Oswego Indians to brew a tea for both
medicinal and culinary purposes, hence the common name Oswego tea. Another of its common
names, bergamot, comes from its fragrant resemblance (no botanical relation) to the bergamot
orange used to flavor Earl Grey tea. The striking blossoms are borne in whorls at the top of the
stem in shades of scarlet, pink, violet, purple, white, or pale yellow and are usually supported by
colorful leafy bracts. The foliage has a strong scent and forms dense whorls of leaves on upright
stems. Monardas are long-blooming plants that are most effective if grown in large colonies.
They are very attractive to hummingbirds and bees, and make a good cut flower.
Mildew is a big problem with monardas, especially if plants get too dry in the summer. The
chart lists the hybrids and cultivars that demonstrate some resistance to mildew, although
poorly cared for plants of any type can often show some mildew. Monarda fistulosa and culti-
vars tolerate drier conditions and are more resistant; the hybrids with zodiac names, from Piet
Oudolf in Holland, are very resistant, and the hybrid ‘Marshall’s Delight’ has high marks for both
its mildew resistance and beautiful clear pink flowers. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After Spanish botanist and physician Nicolas Monardes (1493–1588).
Common Name: Beebalm, bergamot, horsemint, Oswego tea.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, moist soil. Give plants
good air circulation and protect from excessive winter wet.
Light: Sun.

334 Monarda
Monarda ‘Gardenview
Scarlet’.
Management: Divide every three to four years (may have to use a sharp-edged spade). Soil must
be well fed, or plants will become less vigorous after a couple of seasons. Top-dress with
manure or compost every winter. Some would benefit from pea sticks or other early staking.
Deadhead as flowers fade. Don’t allow plants to dry out in summer as this stresses them and
can trigger mildew; plants can be cut to the ground if mildew becomes a big problem. Cut back
in late fall to the crown. Bait for slugs in early spring, as they can devour all your new shoots.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; seed; basal cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, rust, leaf spot, snails, slugs.
Companions: Larger grasses, phlox, salvia, acanthus, achillea, penstemon, alchemilla, eupato-
rium. Most effective in large colonies, wild gardens (meadows), and the grass border.
Notes: A great plant to hide the compost pile (moist soil, rich in nutrients). Monardas may
form a clump larger than eighteen inches across over time and will spread, but they do not
root deeply so are easy to control. They do not recover well from heavy mulch.
USDA
Zone
‘Adam’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Scarlet, brown-red Dull mid-green, Clump-forming
calyces, large (M) lanceolate to ovate
‘Aquarius’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Light purplish pink Bronze-green Mildew resistant
with green bracts (M)
‘Beauty of Cobham’ 3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale cool pink with Purplish green Clump-forming,
purple-pink bracts RHS Award
(M–L)
‘Blaustrumpf’ (syn. 2½–4ft × 4–9 Dark violet-blue with Dark green Vigorous, mildew
‘Blue Stocking’) 1½ft purple bracts (M–L) resistant, good cut
‘Cambridge Scarlet’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Deep scarlet with Grayish green, Prefers moist, very
purple-red calyces, lanceolate to oval popular, mildew
large (M–L) resistant, RHS Award

Monarda 335
USDA
Zone
‘Cherokee’ 4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale lilac-pink (M–L) Green, lanceolate to Some mildew
oval resistance
‘Croftway Pink’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Clear rose-pink with Mid-green, lanceolate More compact, good
pink-tinged bracts to oval cut, RHS Award
(M–L)
‘Dark Ponticum’ 4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Rich purple with Dark green, lanceolate Purple stems
green bracts with to oval
purple-tinged calyces
(M–L)
didyma 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Scarlet with reddish Bronze-green, hairy, Oswego tea, beebalm,
bracts and red calyces toothed, ovate, aromatic bushy, prone to
(M–L) mildew in dry soil,
spreads rapidly
d. ‘Stone’s Throw 3ft × 2ft 4–9 Rose-pink (M) Gray-green, lanceolate Mildew resistant
Pink’ to oval
‘Elsie’s Lavender’ 4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale lilac-purple with Green, lanceolate to As above
pink bracts, green- oval
tinged calyces (M)
‘Fishes’ (syn. 4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale pink with green Mid-green, lanceolate As above
‘Pisces’) throat (M) to oval
fistulosa 3–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Dull lilac with pale Dull grayish green, Wild beebalm,
pink bracts (M–L) ovate, softly hairy tolerates drier
conditions
f. ‘Claire Grace’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Soft lavender (M) Ovate Mildew resistant
‘Gardenview 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Scarlet, purple-tinged Dark green, aromatic Moderately mildew
Scarlet’ bracts, large (M) resistant, RHS Award
‘Jacob Cline’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Deep red with dark Dark green Mildew resistant
red bracts, large (M)
‘Mahogany’ 3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Deep wine-red with Mid-green, lanceolate
brownish red bracts to oval
(M–L)
‘Marshall’s Delight’ 2½–4ft × 4–9 Clear pink (M–L) Light green, shiny Mildew resistant,
1½ft RHS Award
‘Mohawk’ 4–5ft × 1½ft 4–9 Deep mauve (M–L) Green, lanceolate to Some mildew
oval resistance
Petite Delight = 12–15in × 12in 4–9 Rosy-lavender, large Dark green, glossy, Very mildew
‘Acpetdel’ (M–L) crinkled resistant, dwarf
‘Petite Wonder’ 12–15in × 1ft 4–9 Clear pink (M–L) Dark green, lanceolate As above
to oval
‘Prärienacht’ (syn. 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Rich violet-purple Dull green, lanceolate Late to bloom, more
‘Prairie Night’) with green, red-tinged to oval tolerant of drier
bracts (M–L) conditions
punctata 2–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Pale yellow, spotted Softly hairy, lanceolate Spotted beebalm,
with purplish brown, to oblong self-sows,
pink-lavender bracts short-lived
(M–L)
‘Raspberry Wine’ 2½–4ft × 4–9 Raspberry-wine red Large, dark green Mildew resistant
1½ft (M–L)

336 Morina
USDA
Zone
‘Sagittarius’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pale lilac with pale Green, lanceolate to As above
green bracts, tinged oval
red (M)
‘Schneewittchen’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Creamy white, small Dull green, lanceolate As above
(syn. ‘Snow White’) (M) to oval
‘Scorpion’ 2½–3½ft × 4–9 Purplish red with Mid-green, lanceolate Very mildew
1½ft green bracts (M) to oval resistant
‘Snow Queen’ 4ft × 1½ft 4–9 White (M) Green, lanceolate to
oval
‘Squaw’ 4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Clear red with Bright green, long Mildew resistant,
blackish red bracts upper leaves, red veins long-blooming, RHS
(M) Award
‘Vintage Wine’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Reddish purple (M) Green, lanceolate to
oval
‘Violet Queen’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Deep violet-purple, Grayish green, fuzzy Mildew resistant,
brown calyces (M) similar to
M. ‘Blaustrumpf’,
RHS Award
MORINA Morinaceae
This is a wonderful semi-evergreen plant but very short-

lived in the perennial border. Competition is its weak suit.
Try to grow it in full sun with good drainage, or be prepared
to replant. Leaves are a beautiful dark green and very
elegant and formal-looking, like a refined thistle. The small
white to pink flowers are borne on a tall spike and nestle in
a smaller version of the base leaves. Almost always grown
from seed; look for four-inch or one-gallon pots, and plant
immediately. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After French botanist Louis Pierre Morin

(1635–1715).
Common Name: Whorlflower.
Origin: Himalayas.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, poor to moderately
fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive, damp soil.
Resents excessive winter wet but doesn’t like to dry out.
Shelter from cold and drying winds.
Light: Sun.
Management: This plant is tap-rooted and resents distur-
bance. Can be mistaken for thistle and weeded out, so
label them clearly. Cut back in winter, but leave the
basal leaves. Slugs are a menace in spring, so bait well.
Morina longifolia.

Mukdenia 337
Pests and Diseases: Slugs and snails, root rot (especially in shade).
Companions: Saxifraga stolonifera, Ajuga pyramidalis ‘Metallica Crispa’, acaena, euphorbia,
sedum.
USDA
Zone
longifolia 2–3ft × 1ft 6–9 Waxy-white, fades Dark green, thistlelike Whorlflower,
to pale pink, then to softly prickly margins, evergreen crown,
dark pink (M) aromatic when bruised spiny seedheads
MUKDENIA Saxifragaceae
A handsome foliage plant, mukdenia is fairly low-growing and shallow-rooted; it disappears

if allowed to dry out but so far has recovered for us with the first rain. The old name for the
genus, Aceriphyllum, describes the maplelike leaves, which are palmately five- to nine-lobed and
toothed; they emerge reddish, later turning a leathery dull green, and stand on six- to ten-inch
petioles. Starry white flowers arranged in cymes appear in May and add to the plant’s charm.
Although mukdenia is rhizomatous, it is certainly not an aggressive spreader. This is a great pot
plant if given adequate moisture; its leaves flow out from the center. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After Mukden, the ancestral capital of the Manchu Dynasty and the old
capital of Manchuria (now Shenyang).
Common Name: Mukdenia.
Origin: China, Korea.
Preferred Conditions: Leafy, moist, well-drained, cool, damp soil.
Mukdenia rossii.

322_384_TP.indd 337 1/10/07 6:44:12 PM
338 Myosotis
Light: Part shade.

Management: Top-dress with leaf mold or other organic material during the winter. Clean up
when leaves are shed.
Propagation: Seed in autumn; divide in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs on new growth. Like most members of the saxifrage family,
this plant is a food host to adult root weevils. The grubs can damage the roots over winter,
but the woody rhizomes can recover.
Companions: Helleborus, primula, smaller ferns; nice at the base of a rock wall.
USDA
Zone
rossii 6–10in × 10in 7–9 Small white clusters Mid-green, bronze- Clump-forming
(E) tinted, deeply lobed,
maplelike, turns bright
orange in fall
r. ‘Crimson Fans’ 6–10in × 10in 7–9 As above Red to reddish bronze As above
tinge all summer
MYOSOTIS Boraginaceae
The flowers of M. sylvatica are a beautiful summer-sky blue with a bit of yellow in the middle.
The drawbacks to the plant we most associate with the name forget-me-not? Its tiny, hairy
leaves, and its freely self-sowing habit (forget-it-not). This is a plant that gardeners love or hate.
I am in the first category, and while I do not grow as much of it as I did in my youth, I still allow
some in my spring garden. It is a good companion to early narcissus and (if spring is cool) tulips.
My personal management technique is to rip every bit of it out at the end of the flowering time.
Since each flowering stem blooms from bottom to top, it will already have self-sown, and it will
be back next year, if not before. The other colored forms are not nearly as enduring and seldom
reseed: if you like the sweet little white-flowered form, you’ll have to replant it every other year.
Myosotis has childhood associations with the May basket as does the old bluebell, Hyacinthoides
hispanica. Bring back the May basket, grow these flowers! ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek mus (“mouse”) and otos (“ear”), a reference to the leaves.
Common Name: Forget-me-not.
Origin: Europe, North America, northern Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, humusy, cool, and well-drained soil.
Management: Remove plants in late spring as soon as they have finished flowering, before they
become prey to mildew, or cut back to the ground.
Propagation: Seed or division; seed is the preferred method.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, rust, mildew.
338_TP2.indd 338 06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP_G5J_17 1/23/07 12:42:58 PM

Myosotis 339
Myosotis alpestris ‘Gold

’n’ Sapphires’.
Companions: Spring-flowering bulbs, early irises, viola, dicentra, Meconopsis cambrica, Galium
odoratum, erysimum; the white form pairs very nicely with Viola ‘Bowles’ Black’; try Myos-
otis alpestris ‘Gold ’n’ Sapphires’ with tradescantias or centaureas with the same combina-
tion of blue flowers and golden leaves.
Notes: Myosotis sylvatica is really an annual or, generously, a biennial, but it has inhabited most
perennial gardens and borders we have known.
USDA
Zone
alpestris ‘Gold ’n’ 6–8in × 6in 4–9 Blue (E–M) Variegated gold and Dense tufts, does not
Sapphires’ green in spring with do well in prolonged
dark green ribs drought
sylvatica 6–12in × 10in 4–9 Light blue with Gray-green to dark Behaves like a
yellow eye (E–M) green, hairy, sprawling biennial, self-sows
stems
s. ‘Victoria Blue’ 6–8in × 6in 4–9 Deeper blue with Gray-green to dark Dwarf, compact,
yellow eye (E–M) green, hairy grow as an annual
s. ‘Victoria Rose’ 6–8in × 6in 4–9 Rose-pink (E–M) As above As above
s. ‘White’ 6–8in × 6in 4–9 White (E–M) As above As above

322_384_TP.indd 339 1/10/07 6:44:12 PM
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Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 340 12/12/06 11:46:48 AM

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322_384_TP.indd 341 12/12/06 11:48:09 AM

342 Nepeta
Nepeta racemosa
‘Walker’s Low’.
NEPETA Lamiaceae
Both catmint and catnip are in the genus Nepeta; some cats respond well to catmint and will
crush and roll your N. racemosa ‘Walker’s Low’ or N. ‘Six Hills Giant’, but they usually do not
devour them. These plants need a bit more control than most summer perennials, whether by
staking, pinching, or pea sticks. Alternatively, you can site them on a border edge or at the top of
a wall, where a graceful flop will look good. Nepetas knit the garden or border together. All are
good bee plants, and they also attract butterflies. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: Possibly from nepete, a similar plant of Etruscan origin.

Common Name: Catmint, catnip.
Origin: Europe, Kashmir, Asia, North Africa, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, average soil. Nepeta govaniana and N. subsessilis prefer
moist, cool soils; N. sibirica likes fairly dry conditions.
Management: Provide support. In a good season most plants tend to sprawl, and in a heavy
rain they will flop over. Pinching in midspring will help them stay denser, but you do lose
some of the gracefulness of the plant. Cut back twice during the flowering season, to about
two to four inches, to keep them compact and encourage continued bloom (especially on N.
‘Six Hills Giant’); plants need to be grown in full sun and be several years old for this method
to be really effective, and unfortunately, you need to attack them in full bloom. Water well
(and treat the bee stings with meat tenderizer).
Propagation: Cuttings; division in spring; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, some cutworms.
Companions: Roses, paeonia, monarda, salvia, most grasses, santolina, echinacea, geranium,
Euphorbia wallichii, Allium sphaerocephalon.
322_384_TP.indd 342
Nepeta 343
Nepeta sibirica, with well-staked delphiniums, a well-supported shrub rose, and Cynara cardunculus for a bit of
bold foliage.
USDA
Zone
cataria 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–8 White to violet-mauve Gray-green, grayish Catnip, erect,
with purple spots beneath, hairy, ovate to this one is most
(M–L) cordate, aromatic attractive to cats
c. ‘Citriodora’ 3ft × 1½ft 3–8 Dark lavender (E–L) Grayish green, aromatic Erect
(lemon)
‘Dropmore’ 1ft × 1½ft 5–9 Lavender-blue, large Soft gray-green, toothed, Upright,
(M–L) aromatic clump-forming
×faassenii 1–2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Pale lavender-blue Gray-green, oval- Clump-forming,
with dark purple spots lanceolate, scalloped long-blooming,
(E–L) and wrinkled, aromatic erect, RHS Award
322_384_TP.indd 343
*++ E\g\kX
USDA
Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 344 12/12/06 11:53:47 AM

F\eXek_\ *+,
Oenanthe javanica
‘Flamingo’.
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USDA
Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 345 12/12/06 11:57:03 AM

*+- F\efk_\iX
Oenothera speciosa
‘Woodside White’.
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322_384_TP.indd 346 12/12/06 11:58:10 AM

Oenothera 347
Notes: The top of the stigma is cross-shaped. Fragrance, where prominent, is noted in the
chart.
USDA
Zone
fruticosa (syn. 1–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Deep yellow, 4- Mid-green, bronze tints, Sundrops, opens in
linearis) petaled, saucer- to turns red in fall, hairy, daytime, red-tinged
cup-shaped, red in lanceolate to ovate, stems
bud, erect, fragrant toothed
(E–M)
f. ‘Fyrverkeri’ (syn. 1½ft × 1ft 4–9 Deep yellow clusters, Mid-green with purple- Erect, opens in
‘Fireworks’) open from red buds, bronze tints daytime, RHS Award
fragrant (E–M)
f. subsp. glauca 1½–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Bright yellow, reddish Dark green, red-tinted Opens in daytime,
(syn. tetragona) buds, fragrant (M) when young, lanceolate, reddish stems, RHS
hairy Award
f. subsp. glauca 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Bright yellow, small New leaves bright Opens in daytime
‘Erica Robin’ clusters (M) yellow, suffused pink
f. subsp. glauca 1½–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Bright yellow, large Deep green, red-tinged Long-blooming,
‘Sonnenwende’ (M) opens in daytime
laciniata (syn. 3ft × 2ft 3–7 Yellow flushed or Mid-green, hairy, linear- Opens in evening
mexicana) edged in red, cup- lanceolate, toothed
shaped (M)
macrocarpa (syn. 6–9in × 8in 4–9 Bright golden yellow, Dark green, trailing, Vigorous, long-
missouriensis) cup-shaped, fragrant hairy, lanceolate-ovate, blooming, opens in
(E–L) toothed, white midribs daytime, red stems,
good seedpods
odorata 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Pale yellow aging to Glaucous, narrow, Erect, opens in
pinkish red, red buds, crinkled margins evening, red-tinted
some fragrance (M) stems
rosea 6–20in × 5–9 Rose-pink (E–M) Deep green, oblong- Erect, sprawling,
12in+ ovate, toothed, glossy opens in daytime
speciosa 1–2ft × 1ft+ 5–9 White aging to pink, Mid-green, oblong to Mexican evening
yellow center, cup- lanceolate, toothed, red primrose, invasive,
shaped (M–L) spots open day and night
s. ‘Rosea’ (syn. 10–12in × 5–8 Deep rose-pink Grayish green, oblong to Invasive, open day
berlandieri) 12in (M–L) lanceolate, toothed, red and night
spots
s. ‘Siskiyou’ 8–12in × 1ft 5–9 Pale rose-pink, cup- Green, oblong to Short-lived, open day
shaped (M) lanceolate, red spots and night
s. ‘Woodside White’ 1ft × 1ft 5–10 Creamy-white, Light green As above
chartreuse eye (M)
versicolor ‘Sunset 15in × 12in 8–10 Pale tangerine aging Dark green, lanceolate Erect, very short-
Boulevard’ to red (M) lived, opens in
daytime, arching
maroon stems need
staking

Fg_`fgf^fe *+0
USDA
Zone
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Ophiopogon planiscapus
‘Nigrescens’.
322_384_TP.indd 349 12/12/06 12:01:49 PM

350 Ophiopogon
Scientific Name: From the Greek ophis (“snake”) and pogon (“beard”); how this applies to
ophiopogon is obscure.
Common Name: Mondo grass.
Origin: Japan, China, Korea.
Preferred Conditions: Slightly acidic, well-drained, humus-rich, and moisture-retentive soil
with average water needs.
Management: Lightly top-dress annually with manure or compost. Used as a groundcover,
they can get congested and might need to be divided. Tidy up by removing old flower spikes
and dead leaves (remove only the dead leaves—this is an evergreen plant). Can scorch in a
sudden hot spell during the summer. Watch for slugs in the early spring and later, oddly, on
the fruits, too.
Propagation: Division or seed in spring; seed of O. planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ will yield green
plants twenty-five percent of the time.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, leaf spot.
Companions: Lamium maculatum ‘Aureum’, L. m. ‘White Nancy’, hosta, Lysimachia nummu-
laria ‘Aurea’, Ranunculus ficaria, Acorus gramineus, dwarf shrubs and conifers, helleborus.
Notes: An invaluable foil for texture and color on the edge of the perennial border, so we
included it even though it is not technically an herbaceous perennial. Ophiopogon planis-
capus and its selection ‘Nigrescens’ will spread to make very large colonies. The dwarf forms
would make a great grass substitute for bonsai.
USDA
Zone
japonicus 12in × 12in 6–10 White, tinged Dark green, narrow, Pea-sized blue-black
lavender (M) straplike, curving berries
j. ‘Compactus’ 2in × 4in 6–10 White, tinged As above
lavender, rarely
flowers (M)
j. ‘Gyoku Ryu’ 2–3in × 4in 6–10 Lavender (M) Dark green, grasslike Dwarf
j. ‘Minor’ 2in × 2in 6–10 White, tinged Dark green, narrow, Really dwarf
lavender, rarely straplike, curving
flowers (M)
j. ‘Shiroshima Ryu’ 6in × 6in 6–10 White-lavender (M) Green with vertical Vigorous
white stripes
j. ‘Silver Mist’ 12in × 8in 6–10 White, tinged Dark green with narrow Very showy
lavender, rarely cream margins
flowers (M)
j. ‘Super Dwarf’ 2in × 2in 6–10 White-lilac (M) Green, tiny, narrow Very dwarf
j. ‘Torafu’ 6in × 6in 6–10 As above Narrow, green with Showy
horizontal yellow band
planiscapus 8–10in × 12in 6–10 Pale purplish white Dark green, straplike, Blue berries
(M) curving
p. ‘Nigrescens’ (syn. 6–12in × 6–10 Pink-flushed (M) Black, straplike, emerge May turn green in
‘Arabicus’) 12in+ green shade, black berries

Fi`^Xeld *,(
Origanum ‘Barbara
Tingey’.
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322_384_TP.indd 351 12/12/06 12:02:41 PM

352 Origanum
Management: Keep O. laevigatum cultivars under control with a bit of early cutting back, for
flower arrangements. Laevigatums can flop in a heavy summer rain, so either stake them (a
pointless exercise in bad aesthetics), or plant with companions to hold them up. Do not let
smaller oreganos be smothered and killed by larger plants; cut off any flowers that detract
from the foliage (especially with O. vulgare ‘Aureum’). Cut the tall forms to the crown in fall;
shear the short ones lightly in spring or immediately after bloom, and only once. Remove
flowering stems of taller forms to the basal growth when they are no longer attractive.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring; basal cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Root and stem rot, aphids, spider mites.
Companions: Sedum, lavender and other gray-foliage plants, carex, geranium, short grasses,
knautia, allium, Euphorbia rigida, E. myrsinites, Erigeron karvinskianus.
Notes: Attracts bees and butterflies. Origanum laevigatum cultivars do not come true from
seed. All gold-foliage forms may scorch in full sun or turn green as season progresses.
USDA
Zone
‘Barbara Tingey’ 4in × 8in 7–9 Pink with green Bluish green, purple Dense, clump-
bracts, aging to deep reverse, hairy, aromatic forming,
purple-pink, nodding semi-evergreen
whorls (M–L)
calcaratum (syn. 12in × 12in 8–9 Pink with Gray-green, round to Less hardy, requires
tournefortii) conspicuous bracts, heart-shaped, fuzzy, sharp drainage,
large (M–L) aromatic woody base
×hybridinum (syn. 10–18in × 5–9 Pink with pink bracts Gray-green, small, Will flop some, good
pulchellum) 12in (M) aromatic dried
‘Kent Beauty’ 6–8in × 5–8 Pale pink to mauve, Gray-green, rounded- Semi-evergreen,
10in+ deep rose bracts, oval, veined, aromatic prostrate, pendulous
tinged green, small, habit
tubular, hoplike (M)
laevigatum 1½–2ft × 5–9 Purplish pink, red- Dark green, ovate to Erect, wiry, red-
1½ft purple bracts (M–L) elliptic, hairy reverse, purple stems, RHS
aromatic Award
l. ‘Herrenhausen’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Dark pink, dark Purple-flushed, turning Good cut fresh or
1½ft reddish violet bracts, dark green, aromatic dried, will flop,
dense whorls, large heavy flowering,
(M–L) RHS Award
l. ‘Hopleys’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Deep purplish pink Dark green, oval-round, Red-purple stems,
1½ft flowers and bracts, smooth, aromatic new shoots and
hoplike (M–L) winter growth are
flushed purple
l. ‘Silver 10in × 1½ft 5–9 Pink, dainty (M) Creamy yellow and
Anniversary’ white, small, oval,
aromatic
libanoticum 1½ft × 1½ft 5–10 Rose-pink, pale green Green, roundish, Woody base
bracts, hoplike (M–L) aromatic
majoricum ‘White 2–4in × 6in 6–10 Lavender (M–L) Gray-green with white
Anniversary’ edges, tiny, oval
‘Norton Gold’ 18in × 12in 5–9 Pink (M) Gold, rounded, aromatic Short-lived
‘Rosenkuppel’ 1–1½ft × 8–9 Dark pink, dark Dark green, rounded, Purple stems, will
1½ft purple bracts (M–L) aromatic flop

Paeonia 353
USDA
Zone
rotundifolium 4–8in × 8in 7–9 Pale pink, yellow- Gray-green, new growth Woody base, short-
green bracts, small, tinged purple, glossy, lived, RHS Award
whorls (M) round to cordate,
aromatic
‘Santa Cruz’ 1–1½ft × 5–9 Dusty pink, hoplike, Tints of pink, purple, Woody base, bushy,
10in+ pale pink bracts (M) and mauve aging to mid- flops badly
green, aromatic
vulgare 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Deep purple, pale Dark green, rounded- Oregano, bushy,
1½ft pink, or white, purple ovate, hairy leaves and vigorous, delicious,
tints, green bracts, stems, aromatic though some
tubular (M–L) cultivars are even
more so
v. ‘Aureum’ 1–1½ft × 5–9 Pink, purple, or white Bright golden yellow Golden oregano,
1½ft (M–L) especially in spring, bushy, not as
rounded-ovate, aromatic vigorous as species,
RHS Award
v. ‘Aureum 1–1½ft × 5–9 Pink (M) Golden, rounded-ovate, Spreads
Crispum’ 1½ft curly, aromatic
v. ‘Compactum’ 6–8in × 8in 3–7 As above Green, rounded-ovate, Compact
aromatic
v. ‘Gold Tip’ (syn. 6–12in × 10in 5–9 Mauve (M) Green with bright Bushy
‘Variegatum’) yellow at tips, aromatic
v. ‘Thumble’s 10–12in × 5–9 White (M) Golden, aromatic As above
Variety’ 10in
PAEONIA Paeoniaceae
All peonies are rewarding to grow. Handsome foliage, luscious color, amazing seed formations, a
long life—all are attributes of these great plants. Most species are herbaceous, and among them
they offer a wide variety of colors, shapes, and habits. For more details, I can do no better than
recommend you read the descriptions written by Graham Stuart Thomas in his Perennial Garden
Plants (1990): six pages of perfect peony prose. The largest group of peonies are the herbaceous
garden selections and hybrids (see chart for a start), but mention must be made of the tree
peonies: they are really shrubs, with a permanent woody structure (and so not included here),
but they are as beautiful as their garden cousins.
Peonies are the queen of the herbaceous perennial garden, even to the point of some English
gardens having peony borders. They are among the most expensive cut flowers and are also used
in some homeopathic remedies. Herbaceous peony cultivars deserve all the care and attention
you can give, especially when cutting or dividing. Beware of catalog descriptions and photo-
graphs for some of these blowsy beauties; the actual flower color may be a disappointment. It is
best to see the peony in flower to judge the true color, and for the way in which the flower is held
on its stalk: sometimes they droop down to the point of breaking the stem, especially when wet
and heavy. Get a good one, and you will enjoy it for many years to come. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek paionia, for Paion, physician to the gods.
Common Name: Peony.
Origin: Europe, northeastern Asia, Caucasus, Russia.

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USDA
Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 354 12/12/06 12:03:28 PM

Paeonia 355
USDA
Zone
l. ‘Bowl of Beauty’ 2½–3ft × 3–8 Reddish pink, Mid-green Imperial peony, RHS
2½ft creamy-white center, Award
cup-shaped, fragrant,
6in (M)
l. ‘Duchesse de 2½–3ft × 3–8 White flushed green Deep green RHS Award
Nemours’ 2½–3ft in bud, ruffled
yellowish inner
petals, double,
fragrant, 5–6in (E)
l. ‘Edulis Superba’ 3–3½ft × 3–8 Rose-red, double, As above
2½ft fragrant, 6in (E)
l. ‘Félix Crousse’ 2½–3½ft × 3–8 Deep reddish pink, As above RHS Award
2½ft darker center, ruffled
silver edges, fragrant,
5–7in (M)
l. ‘Festiva Maxima’ 3ft × 3ft 3–8 White, red spots, Mid-green RHS Award
double, fragrant,
5–7in (E)
l. ‘Inspecteur 2½–3ft × 3–8 Red, white tips, As above
Lavergne’ 2½ft double, 6in (M)
l. ‘Kansas’ 2½–3ft × 3ft 3–8 Bright red, double, As above Does not fade in sun
fragrant, large (E–M)
l. ‘Karl Rosenfield’ 2½–3ft × 3–8 Deep wine-red, Emerge reddish brown, Hairy stems and leaf
2½–3ft golden stamens, aging to mid-green, stalks
double, fragrant, deeply cut
6–8in (E)
l. ‘Kelway’s 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–8 White, cream center, Deep green
Glorious’ red edges, long petals,
fragrant, 6–8in (M)
l. ‘Lady Alexander 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Pale pink to white, As above RHS Award
Duff’ yellow stamens,
double, fragrant, 6in
(M)
l. ‘Laura Dessert’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Creamy-white, pink Pale mid-green RHS Award
flushed outer petals,
pale yellow stamens,
double, fragrant,
6–8in (E–M)
l. ‘Monsieur Jules 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Pale rose-pink, Deep green RHS Award
Elie’ silvery sheen, double,
fragrant, 5–7in (E)
l. ‘Monsieur Martin 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Dark rose-red, As above
Cahuzac’ velvety, silver sheen,
double, 5–6in (E–M)
l. ‘Peter Brand’ 3ft × 2ft 3–8 Ruby-red, double, Mid-green
5–7in (E–M)
l. ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ 1½–3ft × 3ft 3–8 Pale rose-pink, As above RHS Award
silver edges, ruffled
inner petals, double,
fragrant, 6in (M)

356 Paeonia
USDA
Zone
l. ‘Shirley Temple’ 2½–3ft × 3–8 Pale rose-pink, fading Deep green
2½ft to buff white, double,
fragrant, 7in (E–M)
l. ‘Solange’ 2½–3ft × 3–8 Creamy-white, aging As above
2½ft to pink, 6in (M)
l. ‘Sorbet’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–8 Light pink, yellow Green, good fall color
center, double,
fragrant, 6–8in (E–M)
l. ‘White Wings’ 2½–3ft × 3–8 White, yellow center, Deep green, glossy, turns
2½ft single, fragrant, red in fall
5–6in (M)
mascula 2–3ft × 2½ft 5–8 Deep purplish red, Bluish green, paler
deep yellow stamens, green reverse, divided
cup-shaped, single,
3–5in (E)
m. subsp. triternata 2½ft × 2ft 4–8 Magenta-red, bright Grayish green, bold,
(syn. daurica) yellow stamens, rounded
single, 3–5in (E)
mlokosewitschii 1½–2½ft × 3–8 Yellow, darker yellow Purple-tinged aging to Molly the witch,
2ft stamens, cherry soft gray-green, pleated, erect, short flowering
center, single, bowl- good fall color, rounded, season, good
shaped, 6–8in (E) sometimes red-edged seedpods, RHS
Award
obovata 1½–2ft × 5–8 White to purple-red Deep gray-green, pale RHS Award
2½ft and rose-pink, single, green reverse, oval to
cup-shaped, 3–4in obovate
(E)
officinalis 2–2½ft × 3–8 Red or rose-pink, Dark green, narrow, Common peony
2½ft yellow stamens, divided, glossy, good fall
single, cup-shaped, color
4–5in (E–M)
o. ‘Rosea Plena’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–8 Bright pink, fading Dark green RHS Award
with age, slightly
ruffled, double,
fragrant, 6in (E–M)
o. ‘Rubra Plena’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–8 Deep red, double, As above RHS Award
ruffled, 6in (E–M)
‘Smouthii’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Bright red, yellow Bright green, divided, Sterile
stamens, single, fine, threadlike
cup-shaped, fragrant,
3–4in (E)
tenuifolia 1–2ft × 2ft 5–8 Deep red, yellow Deep green, paler Fernleaf peony
stamens, single, cup- reverse, many pointed
shaped, 3–4in (E–M) fernlike segments
t. ‘Plena’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–8 Dark red, double, Deep green, lacy
3–4in (E–M)
t. ‘Rosea’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–8 Pale pink, single, As above
3–4in (E–M)
veitchii 2–2½ft × 2ft 6–8 Pink, 3–4in (E–M) Grayish green, gray Semi-woody
reverse, lanceolate,
divided
‘Yellow Crown’ 2ft × 2ft 4–8 Bright yellow, 5–6in Mid-green
(E–M)

GXgXm\i *,.
Papaver orientale
‘Patty’s Plum’.
G8G8M<I GXgXm\iXZ\X\
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322_384_TP.indd 357 12/12/06 12:04:16 PM

358 Papaver
Planting: Avoid transplanting, as deep roots make this difficult. Plant when dormant or from
containers, anytime.
Management: Stems and leaves will need cutting back to within an inch of the ground in
August; a new flush of leaves will appear within several weeks. Only P. pilosum and P. atlan-
ticum will bloom longer with deadheading. Many P. orientale selections will need support;
short pea sticks work well.
Propagation: Best propagated by root cuttings (especially P. orientale); seed germinates best in
cool temperatures; divide only after foliage dies down in late summer, in August or so.
Pests and Diseases: Mildew, botrytis, root rot, damping off, snails, slugs.
Companions: Aquilegia, allium, galium (tall forms), anchusa, nepeta, euphorbia, Salvia
×superba; that distant wasteland that can go scruffy in summer.
Notes: To use as a cut flower, pick with the bud just splitting open. Stand cut ends in a foot of
hot water for a short time, and then add cold water, keeping them cool over night. You can
also singe the bottom of cut stems with a match and put them in cool water. Arrange them
the next morning.
USDA
Zone
atlanticum 1–1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Soft orange, saucer- Mid-green, oblong- Atlas poppy, long-
shaped, hairy buds, lanceolate, coarsely blooming, short-
occasionally double, toothed, hairy lived, self-sows,
frilled, 2in (E–M) erect, green then
brown seed capsules
orientale 3ft × 2–3ft 3–9 Orange with maroon Mid-green, hairy, Oriental poppy,
blotches and dark divided, coarse clump-forming,
purple stamens, summer dormant,
frilled, 3–6in (E–M) bristly stems, erect
o. ‘Allegro’ 16–18in × 18in 3–9 Bright scarlet-orange As above Dwarf form
with bold black basal
splotches (E–M)
o. var. bracteatum 4ft × 2ft 3–9 Blood-red with As above Great scarlet poppy,
elongated black spot RHS Award
at base, bowl-shaped
(M)
o. ‘Brilliant’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Scarlet-orange with As above
black blotch, 4–5in
(E–M)
o. ‘Cedar Hill’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Light pink with dark As above
center (E–M)
o. Goliath Group 4ft × 2ft 3–9 Blood-red with black As above
center, large (E–M)
o. Goliath Group 2–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Deep red with black As above Needs no support,
‘Beauty of marks at base, black comes true from
Livermere’ stamens (E–M) seed, RHS Award
o. ‘Harvest Moon’ 2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Yellow-orange, As above
unspotted, small,
semi-double (E–M)

Papaver 359
USDA
Zone
o. ‘Helen Elisabeth’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Clear salmon-pink As above Long-lasting
with black basal
spots, crinkled
(E–M)
o. ‘Mrs. Perry’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Pale salmon-pink As above
with black basal
marks, 4in (E–M)
o. ‘Patty’s Plum’ 2ft × 1½ft 3–9 Plum-purple with As above Short-lived
purple central
blotches (E–M)
o. ‘Perry’s White’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 White with dark As above
patches at base of
petals (E–M)
o. ‘Picotee’ 2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Creamy-white, broad, As above
frilled, orange-pink
margins, black center
(M)
o. ‘Pinnacle’ 2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Bicolored, white As above
edged in scarlet,
large, ruffled (E–M)
o. ‘Prince of 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Scarlet-orange, large As above
Orange’ (E–M)
o. ‘Prinzessin 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Salmon-pink with As above
Victoria Louise’ black basal blotches,
5in (E–M)
o. ‘Queen 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Bright salmon-pink As above
Alexandra’ (E–M)
o. ‘Raspberry 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Deep raspberry-pink As above
Queen’ with black center
(M)
o. ‘Salmon Glow’ 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Rich deep salmon- As above
pink, double (E–M)
o. ‘Türkenlouis’ 2–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Fiery red-orange, As above
fringed, dark center,
unmarked (E–M)
o. ‘Watermelon’ 1½–2½ft × 3–9 Watermelon-red As above
2ft with dark blotch in
center (E–M)
o. ‘Wunderkind’ 2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Bright pink (E) As above
pilosum 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Bright orange (M) Pale green, oblong, hairy Clump-forming,
stiff, upright

GXi`j *-(
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USDA
Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 361 12/12/06 12:06:26 PM

*-) GXkiè`X
Patrinia villosa.
G8KI@E@8 MXc\i`XeXZ\X\
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322_384_TP.indd 362 12/12/06 12:08:25 PM

364 Penstemon
summer. We have noticed the plants will be smaller in drier locations. Peltoboykinia is closely
related to our native Boykinia elata and B. major. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek pelte (“shield”) and for American field botanist Samuel
Boykin.
Common Name: Peltoboykinia.
Origin: Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moderately fertile, moist, cool soil. Perfect alongside a bog
or stream.
Planting: Plant rhizomes shallow and horizontal.
Management: Insufficient moisture will lead to premature browning of leaves as with most
large-leaved shade plants. Cut back in autumn once leaves have died back (there is some fall
color).
Propagation: Division in early spring; seed.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, root weevil.
Companions: Ferns, Primula japonica, dactylorhiza, meconopsis, hosta, rodgersia, dicentra,
polygonatum, gillenia.
USDA
Zone
tellimoides 2½–3ft × 5–9 Pale greenish yellow, Olive to mid-green, Clump-forming
1½ft bell-shaped (M) emerges red, round,
peltate, palmately lobed
watanabei 2–2½ft × 5–9 Creamy-yellow (M) Mid-green, divided, As above
1½ft large, maplelike
PENSTEMON Scrophulariaceae
Penstemons are beautiful, long-blooming, colorful additions to the mixed border and loved by bees
and hummingbirds. They prefer sun but can take part shade and can grow on the sunny verge of the
woodland. The woodier species and hybrids are for the dry garden or the rock garden primarily;
they tend to be truly evergreen and could also serve as edging in the short or low border. The taller,
more herbaceous forms, which are mostly hybrids, spread by underground roots and form fairly
large colonies if given the room. Some folks like P. digitalis ‘Husker Red’, but not me; it may have
dark red foliage, but it has dingy white flowers and a floppy habit, so it would not get my perennial
plant of the year award (grow Lobelia cardinalis instead). ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek pente (“five”) and stemon (“stamen”), referring to the five
stamens.
Common Name: Beardtongue.
Origin: North America, Mexico.
Group 1. Western, the semi-woody group. Requires good drainage, full sun, and poorer soil.
These resent crowding and being overgrown by others. Don’t fertilize or mulch with organic
material. They are not always hardy, so take cuttings.

366 Penstemon
USDA
Zone
barbatus 2–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Pink to scarlet, red- Glaucous, lanceolate to Group 1, semi-
tinged, pale hairy linear, hairy evergreen, long-
throat, yellow beard, blooming, not
tubular (M–L) recommended for
Pacific Northwest
b. ‘Elfin Pink’ 1–3ft × 1ft 3–8 Clear pink, tubular Lighter gray-green, Group 1, evergreen,
(E–M) glossy reblooms
‘Bev Jensen’ 2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Rose-pink, white Pale green, narrow Group 2, bushy
center, darker pink
markings along
throat, tubular (M–L)
‘Blackbird’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 7–9 Deep purple-maroon, Green, broad Group 2, long and
tubular, reddish stems heavy blooming
(M–L)
campanulatus 1½–2½ft × 8–10 Pinkish purple or Dark green, narrow, Group 2,
1½ft violet-red, bell- linear-lanceolate, erect, bushy,
shaped, tubular (E–L) toothed semi-evergreen
‘Crystal’ 1ft × 1ft 4–9 White (M) Bright green, glossy Group 1, evergreen
digitalis ‘Husker 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–8 White with pink tints, Maroon-red and rich Group 2, foxglove
Red’ airy, purple stems bronze, toothed, ages to penstemon,
(E–M) red-flushed green vigorous! 1996 PPA
Award
‘Elizabeth 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Purplish pink, Mid-green, lanceolate Group 2
Cozzens’ magenta streaking,
tubular (E)
‘Evelyn’ 1½–2½ft × 7–10 Rose-pink, white Narrow, green, willowy Group 2, bushy, RHS
2ft throat, darker pink Award
veins, tubular (M–L)
‘Grape Tart’ 1ft × 1½ft 6–9 Two-toned, purple New leaves orange (in Group 1
and lavender (M) sun), aging to green
hartwegii 2–3ft × 2ft 8–10 Brilliant scarlet or Rich green, glossy, Group 1, bushy, RHS
dark purple-red, lanceolate-ovate Award
tubular (M–L)
heterophyllus 12–16in × 12in 7–9 Blue-purple, small, Mid-green, narrow, Group 1, RHS Award
‘Catherine de la tubular (M–L) toothed
Mare’
‘Hidcote Pink’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Soft salmon-pink, Mid-green, willowy, Group 2, long-
paler throat with lanceloate blooming, RHS
crimson streaks Award
(M–L)
hirsutus var. 4–6in × 6in 4–9 Lavender with white Dark green, toothed Group 1, compact,
pygmaeus tips (M) evergreen
‘Holly’s White’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 8–9 White flushed with Mid-green, broad Group 2, bushy,
pink, tubular (M) short-lived
‘Hopley’s 2–2½ft × 7–9 Deep mauve, white Cream and green Group 2, bushy,
Variegated’ 1½ft throat (M–L) variegated and marbled, evergreen
willowlike
‘Huntington Pink’ 1½–2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Soft salmon tinted Green, willowlike Group 2, bushy
bright pink, white
throat (M–L)

Penstemon 367
USDA
Zone
‘Midnight’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Deep purplish blue, Dark green, large Group 2, bushy,
large, tubular (M) erect, strong plant
‘Mother of Pearl’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Pearlish pink with Deep green, narrow Group 2, strong plant
white throat and red
lines (M–L)
‘Papal Purple’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Violet-purple, white Green, fine Group 2,
throat, spotted purple long-blooming
(M–L)
pinifolius 6–8in × 8in 4–10 Scarlet, tubular Green, needlelike, a very Group 1, pine
(M–L) small shrub leaf penstemon,
spreading, long-
blooming, bushy,
evergreen, RHS
Award
p. ‘Mersea Yellow’ 6–8in × 8in 4–10 Bright yellow, tubular Pale green, needlelike Group 1, evergreen,
(M–L) seed may come true
‘Prairie Dusk’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 3–8 Deep rose-purple, Dark green, leathery Group 1, erect
streaked red, tubular
(M)
‘Prairie Fire’ 2–2½ft × 3–9 Scarlet, tubular (M) Deep green As above
1½ft
‘Raspberry Flair’ 2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Lavender-purple, Light green, narrow Group 2, compact
white throat, streaked
maroon (M–L)
‘Raven’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 Blackish purple and Deep green Group 2, RHS Award
red, white and red
throat, large, red-
tinted stems (M–L)
‘Rich Ruby’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 7–9 Burgundy-red, white Mid-green, broad Group 2
stamens, large (M–L)
‘Scharlachkönigin’ 2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Scarlet, white throat Deep green, glossy, Group 2, bushy
(syn. ‘Scarlet (M) serrated
Queen’)
‘Schoenholzeri’ 2–3ft × 2ft 7–9 Deep scarlet with Dark green, narrow, Group 2, bushy,
(syn. ‘Ruby’) white throat, dark waxy vigorous, RHS
red stripes, tubular Award
(M–L)
‘Sour Grapes’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–10 Rich purple-blue, Rich green, large, glossy Group 2, strong
tinged green, white plant, RHS Award
throat, bell-shaped,
tubular (M–L)
‘Stapleford Gem’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 7–9 Lilac-purple, white Mid-green, glossy Group 2, RHS Award
throat, purplish red
line, bell-shaped,
tubular (M–L)
‘Thorn’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–9 White inside, bright Deep green, willowlike Group 2, evergreen,
red-pink tips, dark bushy, erect,
anthers (M–L) vigorous
‘Wisley Pink’ 2–2½ft × 7–9 Pink with darker Green, narrow Group 2, very bushy
1½ft streaks in the throat
(M–L)

G\ifmjb`X *-0
Perovskia ‘Longin’ with Erysimum ‘Margaret Lockett’, Nepeta tuberosa, N. sibirica, Oenothera speciosa, and
grasses (Stipa tenuissima, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light’).
USDA
Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 369 12/12/06 12:13:47 PM

372 Persicaria
USDA
Zone
a. ‘Darjeeling Red’ 10in × 24in+ 4–9 White turning deep Green, large, turn red All shades seen at
pink and aging to red in fall the same time on
(M–L) different flowers,
RHS Award
a. ‘Superba’ (syn. 6–8in × 4–9 Pink to crimson (M–L) Green, leathery, turn Vigorous, more
‘Dimity’) 24in+ rich brown in fall drought tolerant,
mat-forming, RHS
Award
amplexicaulis 4–5ft × ∞ 4–9 Rose-red to purple or Mid-green, ovate, Mountain fleece,
white (M–L) pointed, wavy margin, strong clumps, long-
docklike blooming, woody
rootstock
a. ‘Alba’ 2½ft × 3ft+ 4–9 White (M–L) As above Spreads more slowly
a. ‘Atrosanguinea’ 3–4ft × 3ft+ 4–9 Crimson, small (M–L) As above Long-blooming
a. ‘Firetail’ 3–4ft × ∞ 4–9 Crimson (M–L) Mid-green, very bold, Long-blooming,
large RHS Award
a. ‘Rosea’ 2½ft × 3ft+ 4–9 Soft pink (M) As above Spreads more slowly
a. ‘Taurus’ 2–3ft × ∞ 4–9 Scarlet, darkest flower As above Compact, spreads
(M) more slowly
bistorta 2–3ft × 3ft 4–9 Pale pink or white, Mid-green, docklike, Snakeweed,
bottlebrushlike spikes ovate, pointed, veined semi-evergreen,
(E–L) spreading,
clump-forming
b. ‘Superba’ 2–3ft × 3ft 4–9 Soft mauve-pink, Dark green, docklike, Slowly invasive,
deepening color with wavy margins long-blooming,
age (E–M) erect, RHS Award
campanulata 3–4ft × ∞ 4–9 Pale pink or white, Dark gray-green, Evergreen crown
(syn. Polygonum bell-shaped, deep rose lanceolate-ovate, spreads but easy to
campanulatum) buds, fragrant (M–L) veined, reddish stems control
microcephala ‘Red 3–4ft × 3ft 4–9 Small, white (M–L) Tri-colored, mint-green, Not invasive but a
Dragon’ burgundy, with silver vigorous plant with
chevron 4ft stems
polymorpha 4–6ft × 3ft 4–9 Creamy-white plumes Large, straplike, rough, Not invasive,
(M–L) very bold look clump-forming
virginiana (syn. 2½ft × 2½ft 4–9 Red, small, pearl-like, Mid-green with dark Upright, clump-
filiformis) along red stems (M–L) green markings, bold forming, self-sows,
mahogany chevron, aggressive
ovate-elliptic
v. ‘Lance Corporal’ 3ft × 2ft 4–9 Red, small, pearl-like Chartreuse, deep Clump-forming,
along red stems (M) maroon chevron in striking in spring
center, emerges almost
black, large
v. Variegata Group 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Red (M–L) Mid-green marbled Dark red seedheads,
‘Painter’s Palette’ with cream, central V- dense dome, seeds to
shaped maroon and red the species
markings

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Petasites japonicus var.

giganteus.
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322_384_TP.indd 373 12/12/06 12:18:28 PM

374 Phlomis
Companions: Ferns, aster, Japanese iris, Typha angustifolia (cattail), Equisetum hyemale
(common horsetail), Primula japonica and other candelabra primroses, Lobelia siphilitica,
L. vedrariensis, L. cardinalis, taller astilbes.
Notes: All run in rich soil to a nearly infinite (∞) size or spread.
USDA
Zone
frigidus var. 1½ft × ∞ 4–9 White (E) Green, palmately lobed, North American
palmatus divided and jagged native, vigorous
edged, 1ft across
f. var. palmatus 1½–2ft × ∞ 4–9 Pinkish (E) Golden, palmately lobed, Leaves need sun
‘Golden Palms’ 1ft across for full color, just as
vigorous
hybridus 2–3ft × ∞ 4–9 Purple spikes (E) Light green, heart- Butterbur
shaped to rounded,
2½–3ft across
japonicus var. 3–4ft × ∞ 4–9 Tiny greenish white Light green, round, wavy Giant butterbur
giganteus clusters, pale green margins, 4ft across
bracts, baseball-sized
buds (E)
j. var. giganteus 3ft × ∞ 4–9 Creamy-white to Green, splashed creamy- Variegation not
‘Nishiki-buki’ (syn. chartreuse clusters white, round to kidney- always stable
‘Variegatus’) (E) shaped, 2–3ft across
PHLOMIS Lamiaceae
Phlomis vary in hardiness; some are subshrubs and some perennial. They all enjoy our dry Medi-
terranean summers and tolerate our wet winters. Their leaves are of various shapes, greenish
or gray and woolly. The flower stems are very attractive even when dry—spiky calyces in dense
whorls on tall, erect stems; they can be left on through winter. My experience is with P. russe-
liana, which I prize: not only is it evergreen, but it looks good in the garden all winter and may
seed about. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek phlomos, which referred to mulleins and similar plants.
Common Name: Jerusalem sage.
Origin: Europe, India, Turkey, Syria, Himalayas.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil. Phlomis russeliana,
P. samia, P. italica, and P. fruticosa are drought tolerant.
Light: Sun. Phlomis russeliana, P. samia, and P. tuberosa can tolerate part shade.
Management: A spring bed check and evening flashlight patrols for cutworms will make for
less perforated foliage the rest of the year. Cut back dead or damaged leaves as necessary.
Phlomis fruticosa can be cut back by half after it blooms for possible rebloom. Cut back at the
end of the season to the second pair of leaves or further, to control shape.
Propagation: Seed; stem cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, cutworms.
Companions: Grasses, nepeta, salvia, Macleaya cordata, helenium, Kerria japonica ‘Picta’, arte-
misia, olearia, carex.
Notes: We have included two evergreen shrubs (P. italica and P. fruticosa) that are invaluable to
mixed herbaceous borders.

Phlox 377
Preferred Conditions: Moist, well-drained, humus-rich, with good air circulation. Average
water requirement, especially during dry spells.
Management: While the instructions say most tall phlox need staking, we never do this in the
NPA Borders at the Bellevue Botanical Garden. We manage these plants by pinching out the
tips to keep the plants more compact (if you must, pinch P. paniculata and P. maculata as
early as May). Phlox do need more frequent division than many perennials, probably every
three years or so (divide P. paniculata and P. maculata whenever center of clump dies out).
Frequent division and additional organic matter as well as not growing them too dry all help
keep mildew at bay. Avoid overhead watering for the same reason. Cut back to basal growth
when stems die down or after flowering. If mildew is a problem, cut back to the ground after
flowering, and water and feed with added mulch of compost or manure; new foliage should
be unblemished.
You can actually delay bloom time by two weeks by simply lifting plants for half an hour
or so and then replanting them. If you had six of the same variety, lift three of them and
extend your bloom time by several weeks. You can also stage your show by pinching back in
a particularly theatrical fashion: pinch stems at the back with a light touch, stems in front
with a heavier touch, and the stems in between “just right.” To have tiered plants in bloom in
this manner, the pinching should all be done the same day.
Propagation: Seed; cuttings; spring division—autumn division okay with protection, P. panicu-
lata is done from root cuttings (except for its variegated forms, which must be done from
stem cuttings or division).
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, snails, slugs, root rot, spider mites.
Companions: Eupatorium, salvia, aster, echinacea, geranium, hardy fuchsias, aconitum.
Notes: Border or garden phlox are a good cut flower but short-lived in water. More mildew-
resistant forms of phlox are now appearing from the breeders.
USDA
Zone
×arendsii ‘Anja’ 2ft × 1½ft 3–9 Bright reddish purple, Mid-green, lanceolate Sun, mildew
fragrant (M) resistant, cut back
hard after bloom for
rebloom
×a. ‘Hilda’ 2ft × 1½ft 3–9 White with pink eye As above As above
(E)
×a. ‘Ping Pong’ 1½–2ft × 3–9 Light rose-pink, deep As above Mildew resistant,
1½ft pink eye, fragrant red stems
(M–L)
×a. (Spring Pearl 1½–2ft × 3–9 White, pink eye, large As above Mildew resistant
Series) ‘Miss Jill’ 1½ft (E–M)
×a. (Spring Pearl 1½–2ft × 3–9 White with pink As above
Series) ‘Miss 1½ft blush, fragrant (E–M)
Jo-Ellen’
×a. (Spring Pearl 1½–2ft × 3–9 Dark rose with dark As above
Series) ‘Miss 1½ft red eye (M)
Karen’
×a. (Spring Pearl 1½–2ft × 3–9 Lilac-blue (M–L) As above Mildew resistant
Series) ‘Miss 1½ft
Margie’

378 Phlox
USDA
Zone
×a. (Spring Pearl 1½–2ft × 3–9 Clear red (M–L) Dark green
Series) ‘Miss Mary’ 1½ft
×a. (Spring Pearl 1½–2ft × 3–9 Lilac-blue fading Mid-green, lanceolate
Series) ‘Miss 1½ft to near white at the
Wilma’ center (M–L)
×a. ‘Suzanne’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 3–9 White with red eye As above Sun, mildew
(M) resistant, cut back
hard after bloom for
rebloom
carolina ‘Bill Baker’ 2–4ft × 1ft 3–8 Bright pink to purple Deep green, glossy, Carolina phlox,
clusters, light center, lanceolate to ovate mildew resistant,
fragrant, large (M–L) RHS Award
c. ‘Magnificence’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–8 Pink, large, fragrant Dark green, glossy Mildew resistant
(M–L)
c. ‘Miss Lingard’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–8 White, yellow eye, As above Wedding phlox,
large, fragrant (E–M) mildew resistant,
RHS Award
divaricata 8–15in × 12in 4–9 Light blue-lavender to Dark green, ovate to Part shade, semi-
violet, pink or white, lanceolate to oblong evergreen, cut back
fragrant (E–M) in early spring, RHS
Award
d. ‘Blue Perfume’ 1–1½ft × 4–9 Lilac-blue, fragrant As above Semi-evergreen, cut
1½ft (E–M) back in early spring
d. ‘Clouds of 1ft × 1½ft 4–9 Icy blue, fragrant As above As above
Perfume’ (E–M)
d. ‘Dirigo Ice’ 8–15in × 12in 4–9 Pale blue, fragrant As above As above
(E–M)
d. ‘Fuller’s White’ 8–15in × 12in 4–9 White, deeply notched As above Semi-evergreen,
petals, fragrant (E–M) compact
d. subsp. laphamii 10–12in × 4–9 Deep lavender-blue, Dark green, hairy Semi-evergreen, cut
12in dark violet-rose eye, back in early spring
fragrant (E–M)
d. subsp. laphamii 6–12in × 12in 4–9 Soft rich blue aging to Dark green, hairy, Lax stems, semi-
‘Chattahoochee’ purple-blue, purple- lanceolate to linear evergreen, long-
red center (E–L) blooming, RHS
Award
d. ‘London Grove’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Deep blue, fragrant Dark green, hairy, turns Mildew resistant,
(E–M) to burgundy in fall semi-evergreen
d. ‘Louisiana 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Dark bluish purple, Dark green, hairy Semi-evergreen
Purple’ darker eye, fragrant
(E–M)
d. ‘Plum Perfect’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Light plum-purple, As above Shade tolerant,
dark purple eye, mildew resistant,
fragrant (E–M) semi-evergreen
d. ‘White Perfume’ 8–15in × 12in 4–9 White, fragrant (E–M) Mid-green, hairy Semi-evergreen,
creeping
maculata 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Purple and pink Green, glossy, linear to Wild sweet William,
shades or white, lanceolate or ovate mildew resistant,
conical heads, fragrant sun, moist
(M–L)

Phlox 379
USDA
Zone
m. ‘Alpha’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Lilac-pink with darker Dark green, spotted Mildew resistant,
eye, fragrant (M) stems RHS Award
m. ‘Natascha’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Bicolor, pink and Rich green, shiny Mildew resistant
white, fragrant (M–L)
m. ‘Omega’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 White flushed with Mid-green, glossy RHS Award
violet, pink eye,
fragrant (M–L)
m. ‘Rosalinde’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pink, fragrant (M–L) As above Vigorous,
long-blooming
paniculata 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 White to shades of Dark green, lanceolate- Prone to mildew,
pink, red, lavender, ovate, veined, foliage on doesn’t come true
purple, and magenta, cultivars very similar from seed, may need
in clusters, fragrant except as noted below support, neutral pH,
(M–L) good air circulation
p. ‘Amethyst’ 2½–3ft × 4–9 Soft lavender (M–L) Similar to species Mildew resistant
2ft+
p. ‘Blue Boy’ 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Bluish mauve, white As above Vigorous
eye, fragrant (M–L)
p. ‘Brigadier’ 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Magenta-red (M) Dark green, lanceolate RHS Award
p. ‘Bright Eyes’ 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pale pink with ruby- Green with purple tints Mildew resistant,
red eye (M–L) especially in spring RHS Award
p. ‘David’ 2–4ft × 2½+ 4–9 White, large, fragrant Green, oblong Mildew resistant,
(M–L) vigorous, 2002 PPA
Award
p. ‘Dodo 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pink with rose-red Similar to species RHS Award
Hanbury-Forbes’ eye, large (M–L)
p. ‘Duesterlohe’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Dark purple, fragrant As above Mildew resistant
(syn. ‘Nicky’) (M–L)
p. ‘Eva Cullum’ 2–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Clear pink with dark As above As above
red eye, large, fragrant
(M–L)
p. ‘Fairest One’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Shell-pink (M–L) As above
p. ‘Fairy’s Petticoat’ 3–3½ft × 4–9 Light lilac-pink with As above
2ft+ dark red eye (M)
p. ‘Franz Schubert’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pale lilac-blue, pale As above Mildew resistant
margin and darker eye
(M–L)
p. ‘Harlequin’ 2½–4ft × 4–9 Purplish pink, red eye White, green, and pink May revert
2ft+ (M–L) variegation, narrow
p. ‘Juliet’ 2ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pale pink, white eye Narrow
(M–L)
p. ‘Little Boy’ 15in × 15in 3–9 Lilac-blue, white eye, Similar to species Mildew resistant,
fragrant (M) long-blooming
p. ‘Miss Elie’ 3–3½ft × 3–9 Bright rose (M–L) As above Mildew resistant
1½ft
p. ‘Miss Holland’ 2½–3ft × 3–9 White, red eye (M) As above As above
1½ft

380 Phuopsis
USDA
Zone
p. ‘Miss Kelly’ 2½–3ft × 3–9 Lilac, white eye Dark green, edged in As above
1½ft (M–L) burgundy
p. ‘Miss Pepper’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pink, dark pink eye Similar to species As above
(M)
p. ‘Miss Universe’ 3½ft × 1½ft 3–9 White (M) As above As above
p. ‘Mount Fuji’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Clear white, large Mid-green Mildew resistant,
(syn. ‘Fujiyama’) (M–L) needs no staking,
RHS Award
p. ‘Norah Leigh’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pale lavender-pink, Ivory and green Mildew resistant, a
dark pink eye (M) variegation, small patch good strong grower
of green in center for a variegated
plant
p. ‘Prime Minister’ 2½–3½ft × 4–9 White, red eye (M–L) Similar to species Vigorous
2ft+
p. ‘Prince 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Salmon-orange, small As above Mildew resistant,
of Orange’ red eye (M–L) RHS Award
(syn. ‘Orange
Perfection’)
p. ‘Starfire’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Bright cherry-red Dark green with bronze RHS Award
(M–L)
p. ‘Tenor’ 2–2½ft × 3–9 Ruby-red (M–L) Similar to species
2ft+
p. ‘The King’ 2–4ft × 2ft+ 5–9 Deep purple, large As above Mildew resistant,
(M–L) long-blooming
p. ‘White Admiral’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 White, fragrant (M–L) As above RHS Award
p. ‘Windsor’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Carmine-rose, red eye As above RHS Award
(M–L)
PHUOPSIS Rubiaceae
On first encounter P. stylosa is very charming, a froth of little pink flowers in small rounded
heads. This easy perennial has lax stems and habit, and is usually allowed to flop about. Unfortu-
nately, it has a rather skunky odor when brushed and can become moderately invasive. It never
becomes a pest, but controlling a plant with a ripe scent can be troublesome for those with sensi-
tive noses. The odor is more noticeable in a controlled space. If you buy it and leave it in your car,
it will smell like a skunk died there when you return. Not so stinky in the garden, and it’s worth
noting that almost every garden in England has a clump of this plant. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek phou (a kind of valerian) and opsis (“like”).
Common Name: Crosswort.
Origin: Iran, Asia Minor, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil. Drought tolerant but
protect from cold, dry winters.
Light: Sun.
Management: Clean up in fall. Cut back to original crown to control spread, and remove any
rooted pieces in the process.

*/) G_p^\c`lj
Phygelius aequalis
‘Yellow Trumpet’.
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USDA
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322_384_TP.indd 382 12/12/06 12:22:07 PM

Physalis 383
USDA
Zone
a. ‘Trewidden Pink’ 3–4ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Rose-pink with deep Dark green RHS Award
rose inner lip, yellow
throat (M–L)
a. ‘Yellow Trumpet’ 3–8ft × ∞ 7–10 Pale yellow Mid-green, coarse Vigorous, RHS
racemes, one-sided Award
capensis 3–8ft × ∞ 7–10 Bright red to orange, Dark green, round to Cape fuchsia,
yellow throat (M–L) ovate, very dark stems semi-evergreen,
sprawling, vigorous,
RHS Award
New Sensation = 3–4ft × 3ft 7–9 Red-violet (M–L) Very dark green, dark Slow to establish
‘Blaphy’ petioles
×rectus ‘African 3–4ft × ∞ 7–9 Reddish orange with Deep green, glossy Extremely vigorous,
Queen’ yellow throat (M–L) RHS Award
×r. ‘Devil’s Tears’ 3–4ft × ∞ 7–9 Smoky coral, dark Dark green As above, RHS
red buds, yellow Award
throat (M–L)
×r. ‘Moonraker’ 3ft+ × ∞ 7–9 Pale creamy yellow, Mid-green Extremely vigorous
arranged around the
stem (M–L)
×r. ‘Pink Elf’ 2½ft × 3ft 7–9 Pale dusky pink, Dark green More compact
deep red buds,
yellow throat (M)
×r. ‘Salmon Leap’ 3–4ft × 3ft+ 7–9 Salmon, yellow As above RHS Award
throat, pendent
toward stem (M–L)
×r. ‘Winchester 3–4ft × ∞ 7–9 Reddish pink, yellow As above Vigorous, open
Fanfare’ throat (M–L) inflorescence
PHYSALIS Solanaceae
Note the drawbacks of these plants before you fall for their attractions. It doesn’t take long (if
conditions are right) for plants to take over their allotted space and then some. A member of the
potato family, physalis has blossoms that are small, white, and starry; the light green leaves are
alternate, ovate, and rather limp. Underneath it all are long, fast-growing rhizomes, so plants
have to have room. But the orange lanterns look great. If you wish to try growing one, P. alke-
kengi var. franchetii is the best, having the largest lanterns. Physalis peruviana has edible, bright
yellow-orange berries enclosed in a lanternlike tan calyx. The orange fruits of P. alkekengi are
very popular for dried arrangements; cut them just as calyces get to their full color in fall and
remove the leaves. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek physa (“bladder”), referring to the bladderlike fruits.
Common Name: Chinese lantern.
Origin: Europe, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile soil that is well drained and alkaline.
Light: Sun.

*/+ G_pjXc`j
Physalis alkekengi var.

franchetii ‘Gigantea’.
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USDA
Zone
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322_384_TP.indd 384 12/12/06 12:23:19 PM

Primula 401
The longest-lived of the garden primroses, P. florindae, seems to have no pests and can actu-
ally grow in shallow running water. For more long-lived primroses, we depend on the auriculas
and the Juliaes and Wandas. Our grandmothers all had P. ‘Wanda’, and we continue to hope the
colors pink and white will reappear; even now there are two color forms of this deep purple-
red groundcoverlike primrose. The Juliae/Wanda types are all prone to root weevil infestations.
~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Latin primus (“first”), referring to the early flowers.
Common Name: Primrose, cowslip, oxlip.
Origin: Europe, China, Himalayas, Tibet, Japan.
Planting: Place P. japonica, P. beesiana, P. ×bulleesiana, and P. bulleyana one foot from high-
water mark, if siting near water.
Preferred Conditions / Light: The primroses are complex, so we have sorted them into
our own groups. You can find a primrose for almost any location, from bog to waterside
to border conditions with moisture-retentive, cool, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral to
slightly acid soil (except P. auricula must have lime and P. florindae likes lime), in sun to part
shade (spring sun, summer shade). Most don’t like winter wet (except P. japonica and
P. florindae).
Group 1. Herbaceous, evergreen to semi-evergreen, depending on the winter. Flowers are of
three sorts: either solitary (for example, P. vulgaris, P. juliae, P. ‘Wanda’); in umbels on stems
above the foliage (P. polyanthus and other polyanthus types); or doubles. Moderately fertile
soil.
Group 2. Mostly deciduous. Whorls of flowers in tiers up the stems for the candelabra forms
(P. beesiana, P. ×bulleesiana, P. bulleyana); others (P. alpicola, P. denticulata, P. florindae) have
a single group of flowers. Peaty soil.
Group 3. Evergreen. Large flat-faced flowers; leathery foliage, often farinose (mealy).
Primula auricula must have lime and sharp drainage (gritty soil) to do well, and its showiest
forms need to be kept dry in winter; they are often grown in pots.
Management: For all groups, remove all yellowing leaves anytime. Mulch with manure or
compost but not over the crown. Bait for slugs often. Control root weevils by employing the
old method of constant division.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe; division in early fall.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, spider mites, rust, root rot, botrytis, root weevils.
Companions: The minor spring bulbs, kerria, hamamelis, rhododendron, ferns, brunnera,
bergenia, corylopsis, ribes, meconopsis, hosta, myosotis, pulmonaria, trillium, omphalodes;
the spring garden.
Notes: Here in Seattle several color forms of P. ‘Wanda’ have been traded around locally and
are worth saving or conserving.
USDA
Zone
‘Alan Robb’ 4–6in × 12in 4–9 Pale apricot, double Mid-green Group 1, very
(E–M) floriferous, smaller
flower
‘Alejandra’ (syn. 6–8in × 12in 5–9 Scarlet-red with As above Group 1,
‘Alexandra’) yellow eye (E–M) long-blooming
(polyanthus)
Perennials_Physostegia-Silphium_401 401 12/7/06 6:26:42 PM

402 Primula
USDA
Zone
alpicola 6–12in × 12in 4–8 White, yellow, Mid-green rosette of Group 2, herbaceous
or violet umbels, elliptic leaves, toothed
white eye, root beer or scalloped
fragrance (E)
‘April Rose’ 4–6in × 12in 4–9 Deep ruby-red, Mid-green Group 1
double (E)
auricula 6–9in × 3–9 Mixed yellows, reds, Gray-green rosette, Group 3, RHS Award
8–10in greens, and purples, fleshy, obovate to
paler contrasting eye, oblanceolate, toothed,
fragrant (E) wavy edges
Barnhaven Hybrids 4–6in × 12in 3–8 Variable (E) Green Group 1, specialty
(polyanthus) growers offer many
colors
beesiana 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Purplish rose to red, Mid-green rosette, Group 2, herbaceous,
(candelabra) 1½–2ft yellow eye, fragrant blunt, ovate to summer dormant
(M) lanceolate, toothed, red
midribs
×bulleesiana 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Cream to rose, deep Green rosette Group 2, Bulle’s
(candelabra) 1½–2ft mauve to purple, and primrose, herbaceous
yellow (M)
bulleyana 2–2½ft × 2ft 5–8 Deep yellow to Mid-green rosette, red Group 2, herbaceous,
(candelabra) reddish or soft midribs, long to ovate long-blooming,
orange, in whorls, disappears in late fall,
red buds (M) RHS Award
capitata 6–12in × 16in 4–8 Deep blue, drooping Pale green rosette, Group 2, herbaceous,
umbels (M) lanceolate to oblong, short-lived
toothed
c. subsp. mooreana 12in × 24in 5–9 Darker deep blue Green above, white Group 2, larger,
(M) farinose reverse vigorous
‘Cowichan’ 4–6in × 12in 3–8 Variable, strong Dark green Group 1, from
(polyanthus) colors (E) Vancouver Island,
British Columbia
‘Dawn Ansell’ 4–6in × 4–9 White, double (E) Light green Group 1, vigorous,
10–12in strong
denticulata 9–18in × 18in 4–8 Variable, lilac, Mid-green rosette, Group 2, drumstick
purple, white, textured, spoon-shaped, primula, herbaceous,
red-violet, pink, toothed, leaves appear RHS Award
yellow eye, spherical with flowers
clusters (E)
‘Dorothy’ 4–6in × 4–8 Pale creamy-yellow, Mid-green rosette, Group 1, semi-
(polyanthus) 8–12in tubular, frilled, small, spoon-shaped, small evergreen, vigorous
in umbels (E)
elatior 4–12in × 4–8 Creamy-yellow, Mid-green rosette, Group 1, oxlip, semi-
(polyanthus) 8–10in up-facing, one-sided ovate to oblong or evergreen, RHS
umbel (E–M) elliptic, scalloped, hairy Award
florindae 2–3ft × 2ft 6–8 Sulphur-yellow, Mid-green, ovate to Group 2, Tibetan
drooping, bell-like cordate, toothed, glossy primrose, good
clusters, fragrant (M) cut, long-lived,
herbaceous, can take
wet feet

Primula 403
USDA
Zone
‘Francesca’ 4–6in × 10in 3–8 Green, yellow eye Light green, oval Group 1, long-
(polyanthus) (E–M) blooming, named
after Francesca
Darts from British
Columbia
Gold-laced Group 6–8in × 10in 5–8 Dark mahogany-red Mid-green, sometimes Group 1,
(polyanthus) or red-black, narrow red-tinged, oval semi-evergreen
gold margins, gold
eye (E)
‘Granny Graham’ 4–6in × 10in 4–9 Violet-blue, double Dark green Group 1, reblooms
(E) in fall
‘Guinevere’ 5–6in × 10in 6–8 Pale mauve, tinged Dark purplish Group 1, RHS Award
(polyanthus) purple (E)
Jack in the 4–6in × 10in 3–8 Yellowish green, Green, same color as Group 1, a curiosity
Green Group green calyx (E–M) the calyx but sweet
(polyanthus)
japonica 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Red-violet, pink, Pale green rosette, Group 2, candelabra
(candelabra) 2ft white, yellow eye, crinkled, spathulate primrose, herbaceous,
whorls (E–M) tolerates sunnier
positions if moist, can
take wet feet
j. ‘Miller’s Crimson’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Red, yellow eye, As above As above, RHS Award
(candelabra) 1½–2ft whorls (E–M)
j. ‘Postford White’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 White, yellow eye, As above As above, RHS Award
(candelabra) 1½–2ft whorls (E–M)
juliae 2–3in × 5–9 Red-violet, yellow Green rosette, glossy, Group 1, semi-
10–12in+ eye, single, saucer- cordate to rounded, evergreen, moist
shaped (E) toothed
‘Ken Dearman’ 4–6in × 4–9 Coppery to salmon- Deep green Group 1
10–12in orange, double (E)
kisoana 4–8in × 4–9 Rose to white umbels Mid-green rosette, Group 1, herbaceous,
10–16in (E) hairy, rounded, lobed, stoloniferous, sun
veined, quilted tolerant
‘Lilian Harvey’ 4–6in × 12in 4–9 Magenta-pink, Mid-green Group 1
double (E)
‘Marie Crousse’ 4–6in × 4–9 Mauve-red, edged As above Group 1, vigorous
12–14in silver, double,
fragrant (E)
‘Miss Indigo’ 4–6in × 4–9 Deep purplish violet, As above As above
10–12in white edge, double
(E)
polyanthus 10–18in × 12in 3–8 Variable, white, pink, Dark green rosette, Group 1, English
red, lavender, purple, rounded, puckered, primrose, evergreen
blue, orange, yellow toothed, veined
eye, fragrant (E)
pulverulenta 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Red-violet, dark Deep green rosette, Group 2, herbaceous,
purple eye, whorls obovate or oblanceolate, powdery-white
(E–M) wrinkled, toothed (farina) all over
stems, RHS Award

404 Primula
USDA
Zone
‘Red Velvet’ 4–6in × 4–9 Deep scarlet-red, Green, edged in bronze Group 1
10–12in double (E)
‘Roy Cope’ 4–6in × 12in 4–9 Red, fading to Mid-green As above
purple-red, double
(E)
sieboldii 6–15in × 4–9 Variable, white, Light green rosette, Group 1, Japanese
15–18in mauve, pink, hairy, wrinkled, primrose, herbaceous,
lavender, purple, scalloped may go dormant in
red, lobed, clusters summer, runs, RHS
(E–M) Award
‘Sue Jervis’ 4–6in × 12in 4–9 Pale pink, double (E) Mid-green Group 1
‘Sunshine Susie’ 4–6in × 4–9 Bright yellow, double As above Group 1, strong plant
10–12in (E)
‘Val Horncastle’ 4–6in × 4–9 Pale sulphur-yellow, As above Group 1
10–12in double (E)
‘Velvet Moon’ 5–10in × 10in 6–9 Red, a deeper rich Green, touch of maroon, Group 1, reblooms
(polyanthus) color (E) veined
veris (polyanthus) 4–10in × 10in 4–8 Bright yellow to Mid-green rosette, Group 1, cowslip,
gold, orange, and red, ovate to ovate long-lived, RHS
darker eye, one-sided lanceolate, hairy Award
umbels, nodding, reverse, wrinkled
fragrant (E–M)
vialii 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Red-violet, fading Green rosette, Group 2, orchid
to lilac, in a conical lanceolate, hairy primrose, short-lived,
spike (E–M) RHS Award
vulgaris (syn. 4–6in × 4–9 Yellow, cultivars Mid-green, ovate to Group 1, common
acaulis) 8–10in in white, red, pink, obovate to lanceolate primrose, solitary
and blue, and all flowers on stems
combinations,
fragrant (E)
v. ‘Lilacina Plena’ 4–6in × 4–9 Pale lavender, double Green rosette Group 1, vigorous
(syn. ‘Quaker’s 10–12in (E)
Bonnet’)
‘Wanda’ 4–6in × 12in+ 4–8 Crimson-purple, Dark green to purple Group 1, evergreen,
yellow eye (E) rosette, oval, toothed needs frequent
division, RHS Award

406 Pulmonaria
Propagation: Division in spring at flowering time; seedlings do not come true.

Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew (especially if too dry), snails, slugs.
Companions: Early bulbs, dicentra, hosta, astilbe, forsythia, helleborus, polygonatum, epime-
dium, Ranunculus ficaria, tiarella, hamamelis, corylopsis; pair the coral-colored forms with
Daphne odora ‘Aureomarginata’, Ribes sanguineum, and Tulipa ‘Toronto’.
Notes: To reduce a tendency to mildew in our gardens, we cut plants back to about two inches
tall when the flowers fade, water well, and await a new flush of leaves. In the chart, the
symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
angustifolia 8–12in × ∞ 3–9 Red-pink in bud, Dark green, narrow, Blue cowslip, mildew
opens to deep rich coarse, unspotted, resistant, runs,
blue (E) 7–13in deciduous, RHS
Award
a. ‘Blaues Meer’ 10in × ∞ 3–9 Bright blue to violet Dark green, speckled Runs slowly
with a hint of pink (E) with small silvery-white
spots, 12in
‘Benediction’ 8in × 12in+ 3–9 Deep blue (E) Dark green with light Named for Seattle
green spotting and gardener Loie
speckling, narrow Benedict
‘Berries and 8–12in × 12in 3–9 Coral buds, Silvery, mottled, green
Cream’ raspberry-pink and margins, ruffled
blue (E–M)
‘DeVroomen’s 15in × 18in 3–9 Blue, fading to pink Silvery, near white, with Newer cultivar
Pride’ (E) a few green splashes
and green edges
‘Excalibur’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Rosy-pink buds, Silvery-white, deep Long-blooming,
opens violet-blue, green midribs and mildew resistant
ages to pink and blue- narrow edges, ovate,
violet (E–M) shiny, 10in
‘Lewis Palmer’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Opens pink, ages to Dark green, long, Vigorous, RHS
(syn. ‘Highdown’) bright blue, violet, narrow, splashed and Award
and pink (E) spotted greenish white
‘Little Star’ 8–10in × 3–9 Cobalt-blue, large Green, heavily spotted Long-blooming
8–10in (E–M) silver, long, narrow
longifolia 12in × 18in 3–9 Pink-violet buds, Dark green, spotted Spotted dog
opens to clear blue silvery-white, narrow,
(E–M) pointed, 10–20in
l. ‘Bertram 10–12in × 3–9 Purple buds, opens Dark green, strongly Floppy stems
Anderson’ 18–24in bright blue to intense marked with silver-
violet-blue (E) white spots, narrow,
18–24in
l. subsp. 1–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Blue, fading to blue- Dark green, heavily Mildew resistant
cevennensis violet, large (E–M) spotted silvery-white,
narrow, 18–24in
‘Majesté’ 10–12in × 12in 3–9 Pink and blue fading Silver-gray, narrow
to pink (E) green margins, long,
shiny
‘Margery Fish’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Bright coral-pink Silvery-white with Mildew resistant,
aging bluish purple, greenish spots, narrow vigorous, RHS Award
large (E)

Pulmonaria 407
USDA
Zone
‘Mawson’s Blue’ 9–12in × 18in 3–9 Rich blue (E) Dark green, unspotted, Early to bloom
long, narrow
‘Milchstrasse’ (syn. 9–12in × 18in 3–9 Red buds, opens blue Bright green, densely
‘Milky Way’) fading to reddish pink silvered on upper
(E–M) surfaces with spotted
margins and midribs,
large, narrow
‘Mrs. Kittle’ 15in × 18in 3–9 Light rose-pink Dark green, silvery-
turning light lavender white spots and
(E) marbling
officinalis 10–12in × 18in 3–9 Reddish pink buds, Bright green, silvery- Common lungwort
opens violet then blue white spots, ovate,
(E) 4–5in
o. ‘Blue Mist’ 14–18in × 18in 3–9 Light blue (E) Green, lightly spotted Early bloomer
(syn. ‘Blue Moon’, with silver
‘Bowles’ Blue’)
‘Purple Haze’ 8in × 12in 3–9 Light purplish blue Green, well spotted Compact
(E–M)
‘Roy Davidson’ 12–14in × 18in 3–9 Pink buds, opens sky- Dark green, silver- Named for the U.S.
blue (E) blotched, narrow, long plantsman, mildew
resistant, long
bloomer
rubra 12–16in × 18in 3–9 Bright coral-red (E) Pale green, unspotted, Vigorous, RHS
velvety, elliptic, 5–7in Award
r. ‘Barfield Pink’ 12–15in × 18in 3–9 Coral-pink with Deep green, spotted,
white stripes (E) velvety
r. ‘David Ward’ 12in × 24in 3–9 Coral-red to pink Silvery-green with pale Flowers early, edges
(E–M) cream margins may burn in sun
r. ‘Redstart’ 12in × 18in 3–9 Coral-red (E) Mid-green, unspotted Vigorous
saccharata (syn. 9–18in × 24in 3–9 Purple-pink buds, Mid to dark green, Bethlehem sage
saccharata ‘Picta’) opens red-violet white spots, elliptic,
or white, fading to 8–12in
bluish (E)
s. ‘Dora Bielefeld’ 10–12in × 18in 3–9 Clear bright pink (E) Light to mid-green, Vigorous, heavy
silver-white spots, bloomer
elliptic
s. ‘Mrs. Moon’ 10–12in × 18in 3–9 Pink buds, opens to Dark green, silvery- Mildew prone
blue-violet (E) white spots and
marbling
s. ‘Pink Dawn’ 10in × 18in 3–9 Rich pink, aging to Light to mid-green,
violet (E) white spots and
mottling, crinkled edges
‘Sissinghurst 10–12in × 18in 3–9 Pale pink buds, opens Small grayish green, Weak, RHS Award
White’ white (E) silvery-white spots
‘Smoky Blue’ 12in × 12in 3–9 Pink buds, opens soft Dark green, heavily
blue fading to pink (E) spotted silver
‘Spilled Milk’ 6–9in × 10in 3–9 Rose-pink, aging to Suffused with silver, Mildew resistant
blue then pink (E) green edge, broad, ovate
‘Victorian Brooch’ 12–15in × 18in 3–9 Magenta-coral, Green with silver spots, Long-blooming
deeper in throat long
(E–M)

Ranunculus 409
Propagation: Best by seed (summer as soon as ripe); division in early winter; some forms by
root cuttings in winter.
Pests and Diseases: Watch for slugs in spring, just in case.
Companions: Viola, smaller grasses (festuca), paeonia (emerging foliage), aubrieta, Phlox
subulata, Lychnis viscaria, dwarf narcissus, crocus; a good rock garden plant, shows off well
when backlit.
Notes: Plants have lasted years for us in sandy soil with no amendments and no competition.
The lovely P. vulgaris var. alba, unfortunately, does not perform well here. It’s not unusual for
white-flowered forms of some perennials to be weaker than the common color of the species.
USDA
Zone
vulgaris 8–12in × 10in 6–8 Mauve-pink and Green, fernlike Pasque flower, large
purple, nodding, feathery seedheads,
saucer-shaped, RHS Award
emerges from veil
of silky hairs, yellow
center (E)
v. ‘Alba’ 10in × 10in 6–8 Creamy-white to pure As above Silky seedheads last
white, yellow center well into May, RHS
(E) Award
v. subsp. grandis 12in × 10in 6–8 Variable, white- As above A newer flower form
‘Papageno’ cream, bright pink,
dark red, light blue to
violet, fringed, semi-
double (E)
v. var. rubra 10in × 10in 6–8 Reddish purple, As above Many shades of
yellow center (E) red are sold as this
variety
RANUNCULUS Ranunculaceae
Ranunculus are charming early ephemerals and a true sign that spring is here, but some are
not suited for the border. The invasive buttercup we are constantly digging out of the grass or
garden is R. repens; we include its double form and R. repens ‘Buttered Popcorn’ in the chart, but
caution that these too are very aggressive. Most buttercups have golden yellow cup- to saucer-
shaped flowers that are welcome brighteners of the garden even on a very sunny day. Leaves
are mostly green basal rosettes; many are heart-shaped and glossy. Some of the buttercups are
grown as much for their foliage as for their flowers. The seedlings of R. ficaria show a great deal
of foliar variation. One, ‘Brazen Hussy’, with glossy dark chocolate-bronze leaves and golden
yellow flowers, makes quite a statement. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin rana (“frog”), referring to the damp places that many butter-
cups prefer.
Common Name: Buttercup, lesser celandine.
Origin: Europe, Asia, North Africa, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, moisture-retentive, fertile. The single-flowered forms of
R. ficaria can be quite rambunctious in moisture-retentive soil and are much better behaved
in summer-dry conditions.

416 Romneya
USDA
Zone
p. ‘Elegans’ 3–4ft × 3ft 4–9 Creamy pink, 12–18in Dark green, copper tints, Red seedheads
long (M) glossy, palmate, 6–9
serrated leaflets
p. ‘Superba’ 3–4ft × 3ft 4–9 Strong pink, 18in long Purplish bronze young Dark red fruit, RHS
(M) leaves, aging to green, Award
pinnate to palmate, 5–9
leaflets
podophylla 3–4ft × 3ft+ 5–8 Creamy-white, 12in Greenish bronze, RHS Award
long (M) palmate, jagged, 5-lobed
leaflets, crinkled
p. ‘Bronze Form’ 2½–3½ft × 5–8 Pink, 12in long (M) Emerge bronze-maroon, Leaves turn bronze-
3ft+ age to green, coppery purple to crimson
tints, jagged-edged in fall
leaflets
sambucifolia 2½–3ft × 3ft 4–9 White or pink, dense Dark green, pinnate, 3–9 Elderberry
sprays, 18in long (M) leaflets, hairy rodgersia, earliest to
bloom
ROMNEYA Papaveraceae
This is a lovely plant in the right spot. It has an impressive woody base, glaucous foliage, and
large fragrant white flowers; the poppy flowers are solitary, six-petaled, with a bright golden
yellow center and a tissue-papery texture. The trick is finding the right spot. It grows beautifully
at Children’s Hospital in a planting bed surrounded by a parking lot—no competition and a limit
to its expansive tendencies. Romneya seems only to compete well with indifferent grasses on
poor, disturbed, and emotionally crippled soil. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After Irish astronomer Thomas Romney Robinson.

Common Name: Fried egg flower, Matilija poppy.
Origin: Southern California, New Mexico.
Preferred Conditions: Seems to thrive on neglect in well-drained, lean, and dry soil. Will
bloom longer with more water. Shelter from cold winds.
Light: Sun.
Management: Romneyas resent transplanting or any major disturbances. Cut back to the base
in winter or early spring before new growth begins. Dig around it (root pruning) once a year
to remove suckering roots, but not too close to the main plant. Put a deep dry winter mulch
on. Usually no staking is needed.
Propagation: Seed is difficult (requires high heat to germinate); root cuttings in fall; suckers
with a bit of root in spring or fall may be the best source of new plants.
Pests and Diseases: Root fungal diseases (when roots are bruised or damaged), slugs in spring.
Companions: Grasses, solidago, artemisia, achillea, allium, boltonia, macleaya, centaurea, Lysi-
machia ephemerum, although alone seems the best! It needs all the sunshine it can get.
Notes: One of the few plants worth buying a house for. This is an aggressive spreader in the
right (or wrong) location, but since they are difficult to propagate and transplant, having lots
of roots to work with is helpful. In the chart, the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.

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385-441_TP.indd 418 12/12/06 10:30:13 AM

420 Rudbeckia
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs especially on new growth, aphids, powdery mildew, rust,
smut, leaf miners.
Companions: Grasses, aster, helianthus, boltonia, chrysanthemum, artemisia, Eupatorium
rugosum ‘Chocolate’, solidago, ×solidaster, helenium, crocosmia, salvia, eryngium, Dahlia
‘David Howard’.
Notes: Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ can be invasive. It’s best to consider
R. laciniata ‘Herbstsonne’ and R. maxima and R. occidentalis (and their varieties) to be short-
lived in the Pacific Northwest. In the chart, the size listed under flowers is measured across,
from tip to tip of the petals.
USDA
Zone
fulgida 2–3ft × 2ft 3–10 Golden yellow ray Dark green, oblong to Black-eyed
florets, purplish lanceolate to ovate, Susan, vigorous,
brown disk, 3–4in glossy, slightly hairy long-blooming
(M)
f. var. sullivantii 1½–2½ft × 3–10 Deep golden yellow, Dark green, coarse, Erect, needs no
‘Goldsturm’ 2ft+ blackish brown disk, lanceolate to ovate staking, long-
4–5in (M–L) blooming, long-lived,
vigorous, 1999 PPA
Award, RHS Award
laciniata 5–6ft × 3ft 3–10 Pale yellow, greenish Dark green, 3- to 5- Cut leaf coneflower,
yellow disk, 3–6in lobed, toothed, veined prone to mildew,
(M–L) may need staking
l. ‘Goldquelle’ (syn. 2½–4ft × 2ft 3–10 Double bright yellow, Mid-green, deeply cut RHS Award
‘Golden Fountain’) green disk, 3–4in
(M–L)
l. ‘Herbstsonne’ 5–7ft+ × 2ft+ 3–10 Bright yellow, conical Mid-green, oval, May need support,
(syn. ‘Autumn Sun’) green disk, 4–5in toothed, slightly lobed, long-blooming, RHS
(M–L) veined, glossy Award
maxima 4–8ft × 2ft 4–10 Drooping yellow Glaucous, ovate to Good foliage plant,
florets, brownish elliptic, smooth erect
black 2in disk, 3–5in
(M–L)
occidentalis ‘Black 3–4ft × 2ft 4–10 Tiny yellow petals, Green, toothed, California
Beauty’ large black disk, 5in ovate-elliptical coneflower
(M–L)
o. ‘Green Wizard’ 3–4ft × 2ft 3–10 Petals barely visible, Gray-green A curiosity
dark blackish brown
conical disk, 2in
(M–L)
triloba 3–4ft × 3ft 4–8 Orange ray florets Green, 3–7 lobes, stiffly Brown-eyed-Susan,
with black disk, 3in hairy biennial, a good
(M–L) mixer, some seeding

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385-441_TP.indd 421 12/12/06 10:31:57 AM

Salvia 423
Management: Cut back the flowering stems to the crown or strong pair of new shoots in the
leaf axils after flowering for a second bloom in a good summer. Generally cut to any point
showing potential for branching. Do not let them dry out, as this may trigger mildew. Divide
when the center of the plant starts to look sparse; in all herbaceous salvia, younger clumps
bloom best, so division on a regular two- to three-year program will give you a better show.
Remove spent flower stems. Cut down to basal growth in fall. Watch for slugs and snails at
all times, especially on overwintering crowns.
Propagation: Division of S. uliginosa, S. nemorosa, S. ×superba in spring; the rest from seed or
stem cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, whiteflies, rust, powdery mildew, stem rot, fungal leaf spot,
aphids, spider mites, mealy bugs.
Companions: It’s hard to generalize about companions for salvia, but here’re a few: Sisyrin-
chium striatum, artemisia, hemerocallis, lavandula, helenium, papaver, scabiosa, smaller
euphorbias, roses.
Notes: Salvias are probably best used as short-lived perennials; they perform best in youth.
Salvia ×sylvestris ‘Mainacht’ and S. nemorosa ‘Ostfriesland’ are of garden origin. Salvia
nemorosa, S. ×superba, and S. ×sylvestris are synonyms both on paper and in breeding. In the
chart, the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
argentea 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 White, tinged pink or Silvery-gray rosettes, Silver sage, short-
yellow, inconspicuous woolly, ovate, oval to lived if allowed to
(E–M) oblong produce seed, cut
flowering stems off,
RHS Award
azurea 4–5ft × 2ft 5–9 Clear blue (M–L) Gray-green, lanceolate Blue sage, hates
to oblong, toothed winter wet, will
rebloom without
deadheading
a. var. grandiflora 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Sky-blue, larger Gray-green, linear to Prairie sage,
(M–L) lanceolate, hairy sprawling growth
habit
forsskaolii 2–3ft × 2½ft 5–9 Violet-blue, marked Dark green, large, hairy, Long-blooming
white and yellow ovate, toothed
(E–M)
guaranitica 4–5ft × 2ft 7–10 Deep indigo-blue Dark mid-green, rough, Anise-scented sage,
(M–L) scented, ovate, toothed, tender, likes it moist,
hairy may need support,
long-blooming, good
cut, brittle
g. ‘Argentine Skies’ 3–4ft × 2ft 8–10 Pale sky-blue (M–L) As above Tender, likes it hot,
brittle
g. ‘Black and Blue’ 3–5ft × 2ft 7–10 Deep cobalt-blue, Green, cordate, fuzzy Deep purple-black
black calyx (M–L) stems, brittle
g. ‘Blue Enigma’ 5–6ft × 2ft 5–9 Rich blue with violet- Green Brittle, RHS Award
blue calyx (M–L)
‘Indigo Spires’ 3–4ft × 2ft 7–9 Deep purplish blue Mid-green, ovate, Tender, bushy, brittle
(M–L) margins are serrated
and dark
nemorosa 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Violet-blue, tiny, Olive-green, ovate- Wood sage, erect,
enclosed in red- lanceolate to oblong, tender in winter wet,
purple bracts (E–M) crinkled repeat bloom

424 Salvia
USDA
Zone
n. ‘Amethyst’ 2½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Bluish violet (M) As above RHS Award
n. ‘Lubecca’ 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Deep violet-blue, Gray-green RHS Award
1½ft purple bracts (M–L)
n. ‘Ostfriesland’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Deep purplish blue Green Good cut, may need
1½ft (M) support, repeat
bloom, RHS Award
n. ‘Pusztaflamme’ 15–18in × 5–9 Dusty deep rosy- Deep grayish green Good cut, leggy, RHS
(syn. ‘Plumosa’) 24in purple, plumelike (M) Award
nipponica ‘Fuji 20–24in × 6–9 Pale yellow (L) Variegated with white Low-spreading
Snow’ 24in tips clumps, difficult to
grow
pratensis 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Violet-blue to bluish Rich green, low mounds, Meadow sage, good
white and pure white rough-textured, toothed cut, listed on some
to pink (E–M) noxious weed lists
p. ‘Indigo’ 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Rich violet-blue As above Good cut, RHS
1½ft (E–M) Award
‘Purple Majesty’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 8–10 Deep royal-purple, Mid-yellow-green, Likes lots of heat,
deep purple-black ovate-oblong, serrated good cut, upright
calyx (M–L)
×superba 2½–3ft × 5–9 Violet-purple, red- Mid-green, lanceolate- Erect, RHS Award
1½ft purple calyx (M–L) oblong, scalloped
×sylvestris 2½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Dark violet-blue Olive-green, oblong, Erect, deadhead for
(M–L) wrinkled repeat bloom
×s. ‘Blauhügel’ (syn. 1–1½ft × 4–8 Clear blue (E–M) Gray-green Erect, RHS Award
‘Blue Hill’) 1½ft
×s. ‘Mainacht’ (syn. 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Rich dark violet-blue, Dark green 1997 PPA Award,
‘May Night’) 1½ft purplish red bracts RHS Award
(E–M)
×s. ‘Rose Queen’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Rose-pink (M) Dark green, tinted gray Floppy
1½ft
×s. ‘Schneehügel’ 1½–2ft × 4–7 White (M) Deep grayish green Cut back for rebloom
(syn. ‘Snow Hill’) 1½ft
×s. ‘Viola Klose’ 1½ft × 2ft 4–8 Dark violet-blue, Dark green
more open spikes
(E–M)
uliginosa 5–6ft × ∞ 6–10 Sky-blue, white flecks Bright mid-green, Bog sage, likes it
(M–L) lanceolate, aromatic moist, invasive in
wet soil, flops, RHS
Award
verticillata 3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Lilac-blue, small Green, cordate-ovate, Lilac salvia, good
(M–L) hairy cut, deadhead for
repeat bloom
v. ‘Purple Rain’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Dusty purple, fuzzy Gray-green, fuzzy, Doesn’t come true
1½ft (M–L) serrated from seed, good cut,
deadhead for repeat
bloom

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Scabiosa 429
USDA
Zone
cortusifolia 6in × 8in 5–9 White, tiny, cup- Green, round to kidney- Deciduous or
shaped, in sprays, shaped, leathery, evergreen
spotted yellow or toothed, glossy, lobed
red (M–L)
fortunei 8in × 12in 6–8 White, blushed pink, Green, round to kidney- Deciduous or
small (L) shaped, usually 7 lobes semi-evergreen
primuloides 4–8in × 10in 7–9 White, red spots, Mid-green rosettes, Evergreen, RHS
star-shaped (E–M) reddish green reverse, Award
spoon-shaped to
rounded or ovate
stolonifera (syn. 1–2ft × 2ft+ 5–9 White, marked with Rounded, veined and Strawberry begonia,
sarmentosa) yellow and red (M) fleshy, marbled with semi-evergreen, RHS
pale green, scalloped Award
and hairy
umbrosa 12in × 12in+ 6–9 White with red spots Green rosettes, leathery, Porcelain flower,
in center (E–M) obovate to oblong-oval evergreen
×urbium 4–6in × 12in+ 5–9 White, red center, Green, leathery, spoon- London pride,
spotted yellow and shaped to rounded- stoloniferous, slowly
red, star-shaped ovate, toothed spreads further,
(E–M) evergreen, RHS
Award
×u. ‘Variegata’ 4–6in × 12in+ 5–9 As above As above but splashed in Variegated London
cream pride, evergreen
SCABIOSA Dipsacaceae
Pincushion flower is a charming old-fashioned plant. The flower heads are composed of many
small flowers (florets) with the stamens and pistils creating a pincushionlike effect. As with most
flowers that form a dome, the outside florets are larger, giving a lacy effect to the pincushion.
They bloom in wonderful shades of lavender, blue, pink, yellow, and white on long, wiry stems,
with many in flower from spring until fall. Scabiosas are a good cut flower for fresh arrange-
ments but last only three to five days in water (cut before central flowers open). The seedheads
are oval and seem to be covered in pins; they too make an interesting cut. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin scabies (“itch”), which the rough leaves were said to cure.
Common Name: Pincushion flower.
Origin: Caucasus, Europe, Asia, Africa, Japan, Turkey.
Preferred Conditions: Easy to grow in average, light, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil.
Will be short-lived in acidic soil. Protect from excessive winter moisture.
Light: Sun.
Management: Keep crowns free of mulch. Deadhead for continuous bloom. Some of the
heavier bloomers (S. ‘Butterfly Blue’, S. ‘Pink Mist’) may benefit from a forced rest in
midsummer by cutting off the flowers and buds; this will encourage new vegetative growth
and further blooms. Lime around plants once a year, keeping it away from the crown. Some
people recommend staking, but this may just look plain awful, especially on the shorter
ones. Clean up in the fall leaving the semi-evergreen basal leaves where appropriate. Watch
out for slugs in spring. Divide every two to four years.

432 Schizostylis
Scientific Name: From the Greek schizo (“to divide”) and stylis (“style”); the style is divided
into three parts.
Common Name: Crimson flag, kaffir lily.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, well-drained, humus-rich soil. Very tolerant of most
soil conditions but likes to stay moist in the summer. Shelter from cold drying winds. Lean
soil yields stronger stems and less need to stake.
Light: Sun. Full, hot sun for more erect plants.
Management: Mulch with organic material. Autumn frosts damage open flowers but not the
unopened buds. Groom plant by pulling out the old flowering stems and removing bad-
looking leaves in a harsh winter. In spring, remove last year’s flowering plants and leave the
new unflowered plants; this can be done with a simple vertical yank, which reduces the size
of the clump and helps to keep them in bounds. Divide every year, once established, for good
flower production. Best if soil is then improved, or move plants to another, more fertile loca-
tion.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, thrips, rust—all can leave plants a bit messy.
Companions: Hardy fuchsias, alstroemeria, persicaria, best on their own for cutting and late
color. Hard to companion (try Craigslist).
Notes: The corms on this plant are very small and never unattached to the stems. Plants will
spread beyond the one-foot noted in the chart if allowed to send their rhizomes traveling.
USDA
Zone
coccinea 1–2ft × 1ft 6–10 Scarlet, 6-petaled Mid-green, grasslike, Crimson flag,
cups in spikes (M–L) prominent midrib vigorous, erect
c. f. alba 1½–2ft × 1ft 6–10 White with a faint As above A nice bright
tinge of pink, small almost-white
(M–L)
c. ‘Cherry Red’ 2ft × 1ft 6–10 Bright red (M–L) As above Distinctive color
c. ‘Fenland 1½–2ft × 1ft 6–10 Salmon-pink (L) As above Slightly larger
Daybreak’ flowers
c. ‘Jennifer’ 2ft × 1ft 6–10 Soft pink (L) As above RHS Award
c. ‘Major’ (syn. 15–24in × 6–10 Scarlet-red (L) As above Larger flowers, RHS
‘Gigantea’, 1½ft Award
‘Grandiflora’)
c. ‘Mrs. Hegarty’ 1½–2ft × 6–10 Pale pink (M–L) As above Flowers all summer
1½ft but mostly in the fall
c. ‘Oregon Sunset’ 2ft × 1½ft 6–10 Watermelon-pink (L) As above Slightly larger
flowers
c. ‘Pallida’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 6–10 Pale pink almost As above Fully open, a good
white, large (L) clear white
c. ‘Snow Maiden’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 6–10 Clear white (L) As above
c. ‘Sunrise’ (syn. 1½–2½ft 6–10 Salmon-pink, large (L) As above RHS Award
‘Sunset’) × 1ft
c. ‘Viscountess 2ft × 1½ft 6–10 Pale pink (L) As above Last to bloom,
Byng’ vulnerable to frost
damage

Sedum 435
Light: Sun. Tolerates part shade, but shade may cause larger-flowered forms to be leggy
and lax.
Management: Cut to the crown once the foliage begins to look bad in late fall (some turn
a nice rusty brown in the winter and can be left until spring). Cut back flower stems on
the spreading sedums to maintain shape. Divide larger sedums every three to four years;
this will help improve the flowering. Lift with fork in spring to break feeder roots before
replanting (this retards their growth, making shorter, stronger plants); or dig up, divide, and
replant to the same effect. You can also pinch them back in springtime, but flower heads
become smaller. For the larger S. telephium and S. spectabile forms and cultivars, neither root
pruning nor pinching works very well in good soil; in lean soil, try the former (don’t do the
latter). The S. spectabile and S. telephium cultivars can flop in wet fall weather; try to locate
them where this will work to your advantage, or try pea sticks or the techniques just noted.
Bait crowns (which are evergreen) for slugs in early spring.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring; cuttings are easy in the spring and root easily.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, mealy bugs. Root weevils can damage or devour the root
system over winter. The root weevil problem is much worse in pots.
Companions: Dwarf conifers, smaller grasses, asters, nepeta, penstemon, salvia, scabiosa,
heuchera, carex; for the larger S. spectabile types, the autumn border.
Notes: In the Pacific Northwest pinching out can be a big mistake in a cool summer, as it makes
ugly, runty flowers.
USDA
Zone
‘Bertram Anderson’ 6–8in × 12in 5–9 Dusty-pink, purple Purple-tinted, fleshy, RHS Award
stems (M–L) round to ovate
erythrostictum 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Greenish white Gray-green, toothed,
clusters (M–L) ovate
e. ‘Frosty Morn’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 White in warm Grayish green, white Flops, often reverts
climates, pale pink in borders to green
cool climates (M–L)
e. 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Whitish, touch of Central creamy-yellow Part shade, may
‘Mediovariegatum’ pale pink (M–L) blotch with green revert to green
margins, blotch is gold
in spring
‘Herbstfreude’ (syn. 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–10 Light pink to deeper Grayish blue-green, Good cut, RHS
‘Autumn Joy’) pink aging to pinkish oblong to ovate, toothed Award
bronze then coppery
(M–L)
‘Ruby Glow’ 8–12in × 12in 5–9 Deep ruby-red aging Gray-green, elliptic, Lax habit, large
to russet-brown, red toothed heads, RHS Award
stems (M–L)
sieboldii 6–8in × 12in 6–9 Bright rosy-pink Blue-green, sometimes October daphne,
(M–L) edged purple or red, trailing
toothed, in whorls, turns
coppery
s. 4–6in × 12in 6–9 Bright pink (M–L) Blue-green, marbled RHS Award
‘Mediovariegatum’ with cream, red margins
(syn. ‘Variegatum’)
spectabile 1–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Pale rosy-pink with Gray-green, ovate to Showy stonecrop,
prominent stamens elliptic or obovate, large heads, RHS
(M–L) toothed Award

436 Sedum
USDA
Zone
s. ‘Brilliant’ 1–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Bright pinkish rose Light blue-green, Striking color, large
(M–L) scalloped heads, RHS Award
s. ‘Carmen’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Rosy-pink (M–L) Gray-green Large heads
s. ‘Iceberg’ 1–1½ft × 2ft 4–9 White (M–L) Apple-green As above
s. ‘Indian Chief’ 15in × 2ft 4–9 Copper-red (L) Pale green As above
s. ‘Meteor’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Purplish red (M–L) Gray-green As above
s. ‘Septemberglut’ 18–20in × 2ft 4–9 Rich pink aging to As above Very large heads
(syn. ‘September dark red (L)
Glow’)
s. ‘Stardust’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Creamy-white (M–L) As above Large heads
telephium 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Greenish white aging Gray-green, toothed, Orpine, floppy
to reddish purple oblong-ovate
(M–L)
t. ‘Arthur Branch’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Reddish purple, Dark purplish black, Floppy
burgundy stems glossy
(M–L)
t. ‘Matrona’ 1½–2½ft 3–9 Pale smoky-pink, Gray-bluish green, rosy- Upright
× 2ft shiny red stems pink edges, large
(M–L)
t. subsp. maximum 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Rosy-pink, small Purple-maroon, toothed, Chocolate-brown
‘Atropurpureum’ (M–L) ovate seedheads, open
habit, RHS Award
t. subsp. maximum 1–1½ft × 2ft 5–9 Green (L) Chalky blue-green Great color, smaller
‘Gooseberry Fool’ heads. upright
t. ‘Mohrchen’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Dark reddish pink Grayish red-purple, A bit more vertical
(M–L) heavy substance
t. ‘Munstead Red’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Rose-red (M–L) Purplish green Brown seedheads,
upright
t. subsp. ruprechtii 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–10 Pink buds open to Chalky-blue with pink Good color, smaller
(syn. ‘Eleanor creamy yellow (M–L) tones heads, upright
Fisher’)
t. ‘Variegatum’ 1ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pink with green tints Pale green with creamy May revert, remove
(M–L) gold variegation the green shoots,
upright
‘Vera Jameson’ 8–12in × 12in 4–9 Deep rose-pink with Glaucous, rosy-purple RHS Award
white accents, purple tints, toothed, rounded
stems (M–L)

440 Silphium
Scientific Name: From the Greek sialon (“saliva”), referring to the sticky secretion this genus
exudes from its stems, which can entrap small flies; hence the common English name
catchfly for these plants.
Common Name: Campion, catchfly.
Origin: Europe, western Asia, Iran, Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Easy to grow in moderately fertile, well-drained, and neutral to slightly
alkaline soil. Doesn’t like to dry out.
Management: Doesn’t require much maintenance other than removing the flowering stems
after the blooms fade. Clean up flowering stems in winter but leave the crown alone. Bait;
these are vulnerable to slugs in early spring.
Propagation: Seed; basal cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, whiteflies, spider mites, aphids, rust.
Companions: Low-growing grasses, shorter campanulas, erigeron, Euphorbia myrsinites,
Dianthus deltoides, Iris germanica (dwarf forms), I. sibirica.
USDA
Zone
dioica 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Light red-violet Ovate basal leaves, softly Red campion, hairy
(E–M) hairy stems
d. ‘Clifford Moor’ 1½ft × 1ft 5–9 Pink (E–M) Dark green edged in
cream, narrow, straplike
d. ‘Flore Pleno’ 1ft × 1ft 5–9 Rose-red, or pink Dark green, hairy, leafy
with coral overtones, mounds
double (E)
d. ‘Graham’s 3ft × 1½ft 5–9 Pink, small (E–M) Striped cream, Seeds to S. dioica
Delight’ (syn. sometimes cream
‘Variegata’) margins
d. ‘Inane’ 2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Bronze buds open to Dark maroon basal Red stems
vivid pink (E–M) leaves
schafta 6–10in × 12in 5–9 Pink to purplish Bright green, lanceolate Moss campion, RHS
(M–L) to ovate Award
uniflora ‘Druett’s 8in × 10in 3–9 White (M) Variegated white, more May revert to green
Variegated’ strikingly than S. dioica
‘Graham’s Delight’
SILPHIUM Asteraceae
The compass plant (S. laciniatum) derives its name from the behavior of its leaves, which stand
upright with their edges set north-south, enabling them to better withstand the hot summer sun.
Silphium perfoliatum (cup plant) has upper leaves that surround the stem, a classic perfoliate
leaf. These members of the daisy family have flowers typical of sunflowers and are also from the
American prairie. Mildew is a big problem, so don’t let them dry out; this will aggravate the situ-
ation. They also have another aspect that causes gardeners quite a bit of grief—extreme vulner-
ability to slugs. Are there no slugs in the “Sea of Grass”? ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From silphion, the Greek term for a resinous plant.
Common Name: Compass plant, cup plant.

348 Omphalodes
OMPHALODES Boraginaceae
Omphalodes are spring bloomers, up with the early bulbs.

All are great groundcovers under deciduous shrubs; espe-
cially weed-excluding is O. verna—not exciting out of
flower, but pretty enough leaves as a carpet under shrubs,
trees, and later perennials. It’s also the first to bloom, prob-
ably as much as a month before O. cappadocica. The flowers
resemble their cousins the forget-me-nots (same family),
but whereas forget-me-nots have a tendency to be rather
weedy and short-lived, omphalodes have better habits,
better flowers, and no nuisance factor.
Omphalodes cappadocica extends the season. A taller
plant, it spreads slowly but remains a clump, and has some
lovely selections: ‘Lilac Mist’, with pale lavender flowers, is
attractive with Primula vulgaris ‘Lilacina Plena’ and silver-
spotted pulmonaria foliage; ‘Starry Eyes’, which came from
Washfield Nursery (Elizabeth Strangman) in Kent, is truly
a star—deep blue flowers with thin white edges. ~ Carrie
Becker
Omphalodes cappadocica ‘Starry Eyes’. Scientific Name: From the Greek omphalos (“navel”),
referring to a navel-like impression in the seeds.
Common Name: Blue-eyed Mary, navelwort.
Origin: Turkey, southeastern Europe, Asia Minor, western Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, cool, moisture-retentive, humus-rich soil. Average
water needs. Tolerates dry shade once established.
Light: Part shade. Omphalodes cappadocica tolerates sun with enough moisture and can have
deep shade after blooming time, if necessary; O. verna prefers shade.
Planting: Cultivate young plants grown from seed in pots and then set them out in the
following spring.
Management: Prefers not to be disturbed. Top-dress with mulch or manure. Watch for over-
crowding: too much competition from overgrowing plants at ground level can make
O. cappadocica go away. Cut back when foliage begins to deteriorate in fall.
Propagation: Seed; division in late winter or spring.
Companions: Spring bulbs, helleborus (especially O. verna ‘Alba’), primula, viola, brunnera,
hosta, ferns, pulmonaria, dicentra.
Notes: This is a difficult plant to divide, so availability can be limited. Tissue-cultured O. cappa-
docica ‘Starry Eyes’ has a tendency to revert to the type. Grow the annual O. linifolia at least
once and look at the seed! In the chart, the symbol ' = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
cappadocica 6in × 12in+ 5–9 Clear blue with white Mid-green, cordate, Navelwort,
throat (E) veined, hairy erect, evergreen,
rhizomatous, RHS
Award

360 Parahebe
Parahebe perfoliata.
PARAHEBE Scrophulariaceae
Parahebe perfoliata has long, eventually lax stems holding fused pairs of attractive leathery blue-
green leaves along their length. The leaves are perfoliate: the stem passes through or perforates
them. The tips of the stems have bright violet flowers in May. It has done yeoman’s service for
me—encircling and holding up the usually prostrate flowers of Helleborus argutifolius. Plant
these incredible curiosities where their lax habit can be appreciated—on a wall or small bank, or
atop a rockery. In a perfect year, these make good container plants, but do not allow them to dry
out. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek para (“similar to”), hence, similar to a hebe.
Common Name: Digger’s speedwell.
Origin: Australia, New Zealand.
Preferred Conditions: Light, well-drained soil in a sheltered and warm location.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut the stems hard in early spring; cutting back old stems may promote several
waves of growth and bloom. Once established, plants can be cut back to basal growth for the
winter; this will also keep them tidier. You can also leave the old growth on to protect the
crown over winter and remove in spring.
Propagation: Division in spring; cuttings and seedlings.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, mildew.
Companions: Grasses, artemisia, other graylings.
Notes: Marginally hardy here but has survived six straight winters given its preferred conditions.
USDA
Zone
perfoliata (syn. 2ft × 2ft 8–10 Violet-blue clusters Bluish green, ovate, Arching stems, will
Veronica perfoliata) (M) eucalyptuslike, sprawl but looks
perfoliate odd if staked, semi-
evergreen, RHS
Award
322_384_TP.indd 360
Peltoboykinia 363

Companions: Tiarella, phlox, rudbeckia, hemerocallis, helenium, geranium, heliopsis, helian-
thus, grasses.
USDA
Zone
gibbosa 1–2ft × 2ft 5–9 Pale yellow with lone Mid-green, shiny, Long-lasting bloom,
petal of greenish broadly ovate, pinnately peculiar odor
yellow (M) cut and jagged
scabiosifolia 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Golden yellow, tiny, Mid-green, ovate to Golden lace, upright,
cup-shaped (M–L) oblong, hairy, coarse, needs sun
deeply divided
s. ‘Nagoya’ 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Golden yellow (M) As above More compact
triloba 1–2ft × 1ft 5–9 Yellow clusters, red- Green, deeply cut, basal Clump-forming,
tinted stems, cup- leaves mostly palmate erect
shaped, fragrant (M)
villosa 3ft+ × 2ft 5–9 White (L) Dark green, deeply Very elegant
lobed
PELTOBOYKINIA Saxifragaceae
I grow both species of peltoboykinia for their foliage; others prize them for their pale yellowish
flowers, which are diminutive (at least compared with the large, palmate leaves) but carried in
cymes on a one- to two-foot stem. So they have something for everyone. They spread slowly by
rhizomes. I grow P. tellimoides in a whisky barrel, so I can keep it fairly evenly moist. Peltoboy-
kinia watanabei is in the ground, and even with supplemental moisture, its leaves crisp in late
Peltoboykinia watanabei
is a presence in the
border even when not
in flower.
322_384_TP.indd 363
Penstemon 365
Penstemon
‘Schoenholzeri’.
Group 2. Grassland. Requires a richer, more moist soil and consorts better with other plants.
Prefers good drainage and sun, but can take part shade. These tend to be semi-evergreen to
herbaceous, depending on the cultivar and the winter. This group includes all the campanu-
latus hybrids that are semi-woody and semi-evergreen; we leave them up for winter and cut
to newly emerging basal and lower stem growth in spring. Use an organic mulch, but not
over the crown. Cut off spent flowers each time for nearly continuous bloom.
Both groups can be left to grow, or cut back by one-third to one-half in springtime to get
vigorous new growth. If left, they will bloom earlier, but still will need a bit of shaping in the
spring. If you keep your penstemons deadheaded, they will bloom from early summer until
frost in most cases. Flower spikes should be cut off below the lowest blossom.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe; best from cuttings (especially cultivars) (cuttings and seed
only for Group 1); division in spring or fall for established clumps.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, leaf spot, snails, slugs, crown rot.
Companions: Heuchera, aquilegia, kniphofia, smaller euphorbias, smaller crocosmias, arte-
misia, eryngium, salvia, phlox.
Notes: Many are good cut flowers. Penstemon ‘Alice Hindley’, P. ‘Sour Grapes’ and P. ‘Stapl-
eford Gem’ are mixed in the trade.
USDA
Zone
‘Alice Hindley’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 7–9 Pale lilac-blue, white Glossy, mid-green Group 2, bushy, erect,
inside, tubular (M–L) vigorous, RHS Award
‘Andenken an 2–3ft × 1½ft 7–10 Deep wine-red, Green, narrow, shiny Group 2, bushy,
Friedrich Hahn’ tubular (M–L) vigorous, RHS
(syn. ‘Garnet’) Award
‘Apple Blossom’ 1½–2½ft × 6–9 Pale pink, white Green, narrow Group 2, repeat
1½ft throat, tubular (M–L) bloomer, good cut,
RHS Award
322_384_TP.indd 365
368 Perovskia
PEROVSKIA Lamiaceae
Russian sage is neither Russian nor a sage. Perovskia
atriplicifolia is in the same family as sage, but so are lots
of things. The cultivars of Russian sage are only slightly
different, with more or less divided foliage and more or less
gray foliage that has a pungent sagelike scent. When they
bloom, the soft gray stems and leaves taper to a foot or more
of blue flowers. If cut at this point, put in a vase in only
one inch of water, and left, they’ll dry to a pleasant shade
of light blue. Personally, I like to leave the flower stems on
the plant until spring: from fall on, they become grayer, to
a gray-white, and stand as interesting “dried” stems in the
garden all winter long.
Russian sages have a tendency to fall forward (or back-
ward) into a semi-prostrate state so are well sited at tops of
walls and stairways or banks, where this habit can be used
to advantage. They hate competition and demand full sun
for best performance. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: After Russian general V. A. Perovsky

(1794–1857).
Common Name: Russian sage.
Origin: Afghanistan, Pakistan, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: A hot, dry location, but will grow
in most any well-drained site. Poorer, drier soil would
make them even happier.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut back woody stems to about six inches
every spring to encourage strong new shoots before
Perovskia atriplicifolia.
growth begins. You can also wait until the buds begin to
swell on the stems and then cut back to just
above the lowest buds, to about six inches. You will need to adjust this cutting back,
depending on vigor in your garden: new growth can be early in mild winters and caught by
late frosts, but plants usually recover.
Propagation: Cuttings are best; division in spring, but not recommended.
Pests and Diseases: None serious.
Companions: Grasses, crocosmia, artemisia, lavandula, gaura, salvia, rudbeckia, penstemon,
phlox, nepeta, echinops, echinacea; the prairie garden.
Notes: Sold as bare root shrubs in the Midwest. Probably needs more heat than we typically
have here. Perovskia will sucker in loose, dry, sandy or gravelly soil once well established.
322_384_TP.indd 368
370 Persicaria
Persicaria amplexicaulis
‘Rosea’ with hydrangea.
PERSICARIA Polygonaceae
The knotweeds—these are the ones we love to hate and hate to love. Persicaria virginiana and
all its forms seed about. Persicaria amplexicaulis and its forms spread fast with immense woody
crowns. At least they don’t set seed! Persicaria affinis also spreads a great deal to make large
mats—a good edger. Tolerant of water, these strong plants are valued for their bold look in the
larger border and long flowering season. If someone could just breed a smaller form of P. amplex-
icaulis we might have the perfect border plant.
One thing to be careful with here is that there is wild name changing in this group. You can
find mention of persicaria, fallopia, and polygonum all in the same sentence, and it can be hard
to keep it all straight. With the amount of time taxonomists spend indoors, name changes are
inevitable (see Actaea). ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: The medieval name for knotweed, persica (“peach-shaped”), a reference to
the leaves.
Common Name: Knotweed, fleeceflower.
Origin: Himalayas, China, India, Asia, Europe, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Moisture-retentive, well-drained soil with lots of organic material. Very
adaptable. Persicaria bistorta tolerates dry soil but not in spring.
Management: Several are attractive in winter, so although they can be cut back in late fall, we
advise waiting until spring. Persicaria campanulata is tender and may need some winter
protection. Most are spreaders and need a certain amount of control to keep them in bounds.
Propagation: Stem cuttings; divisions in spring; seed.
322_384_TP.indd 370
Persicaria 371
Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Firetail’ leans across the walk toward Acanthus spinosus, A. s. Spinosissimus Group,
and a hardy fuchsia.
Companions: Grasses, aster, aconitum, lilium, hosta, rodgersia, monarda, filipendula, chelone,
knautia, Anemone japonica, Fuchsia magellanica.
USDA
Zone
affinis 10–12in × 4–9 Pale pink aging to Green, ovate to Himalayan
24in+ rose-red (M–L) lanceolate, turn red- fleeceflower,
copper in fall vigorous,
mat-forming
a. ‘Border Jewel’ 6in × 24in+ 4–9 Pale pink aging to rose Dark black-green, glossy Mat-forming
then red (E)
322_384_TP.indd 371
Phlomis 375
Phlomis tuberosa.
USDA
Zone
cashmeriana 2–3ft × 2ft 7–9 Pale lilac-purple (M) Gray-green, ovate- Erect
lanceolate, woolly
fruticosa 3–4ft × 4ft 7–9 Bright yellow (M) Grayish green, woolly, Jerusalem sage,
elliptic to lanceolate, shrub, new shoots
wrinkled white, RHS Award
italica 3–4ft × 3ft 8–10 Lilac-pink, light Silvery-gray, woolly, Shrub, erect
silver-gray stems (M) oblong to lanceolate
russeliana 3–4ft × 2½ft+ 4–9 Butter-yellow, green Bright mid-green, Rhizomatous, self-
calyces (M) cordate to ovate, sows, flops, RHS
crinkled, felted Award
samia 3ft × 2½ft+ 7–10 Purplish pink (M) Mid-green, woolly Greek Jerusalem sage
ovate-lanceolate,
serrate
tuberosa 4ft × 2½ft 5–8 Pink to purple, white Green, cordate-ovate, Tuberous rootstock,
beard at throat, deep toothed, softly hairy, bushy, erect
red stems (M) herbaceous
t. ‘Amazone’ 4–5ft × 2½ft 4–9 Lilac-rose (M) Dark green, coarse As above
322_384_TP.indd 375
376 Phlox
Phlox paniculata ‘Mount Fuji’ with Agapanthus ‘Bressingham White’, Phygelius aequalis ‘Yellow Trumpet’, and
daylilies.
PHLOX Polemoniaceae
The shorter P. divaricata is lovely in the woodland garden; I have seen carpets of it under rhodo-
dendrons and other woodland shrubs in late spring. The erect habit of P. paniculata makes it a
great border plant, and the many little trumpets of scent are especially nice in midsummer. All
forms of P. paniculata have great fragrance, especially in the evening, when the moths come to
sip their nectar. The white-flowered forms and variegated-leaf forms show up well in the night
garden. Margery Fish said you could grow P. paniculata in part shade. Morning shade and after-
noon sun would be best if shade is a factor in your garden. Don’t forget to suck the nectar out of
a few flowers yourself. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek phlox (“flame”).

Common Name: Phlox.

Phygelius 381
Phuopsis stylosa.
Propagation: Division in spring; stem cuttings; seed.

Pests and Diseases: Slugs in spring can be a problem.
Companions: A good edge-of-the-border plant, suitable as a groundcover.
USDA
Zone
stylosa 10–12in × 5–9 Rose-pink, tiny, in Pale green, narrow, Musky odor
18in dense rounded heads lanceolate, in whorls
(M–L)
PHYGELIUS Scrophulariaceae
These curious African plants are commonly referred to as Cape fuchsias, which of course they
are not. You must look into the trumpet to see the full charm of the flower (all forms with red,
orange, and pink flowers have blue pollen when they first open). The hummingbirds do this
every day of the flowering season, which for us is from late May to November—an exceptionally
long bloom time. They are a good cut flower, not too fussy, and great for the summer border, but
they cannot be home alone: these plants need supervision. Their running nature makes them
a bit sloppy; they travel out from the center, the center becomes vacant, and the outriggers are
often not pinched in time and get too tall and floppy. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek phyge (“flight”) and helios (“sun”).
Common Name: Cape fuchsia.

Physostegia 385
PHYSOSTEGIA Lamiaceae
The obedient plant, typical of the mint family, is not very
obedient when it comes to staying where it’s put in the
garden. This species does move about, spreading actively
by rhizomes, especially on rich, moist sites. Plant it in drier
soil and fertilize sparingly, and it will be more obedient. The
plant actually got its common name because if a flower is
pushed aside to a new position, it will remain there obedi-
ently, as if on a hinge. This is a real bonus when using the
cut flowers in arrangements, not to mention entertaining to
garden visitors.
Physostegia virginiana and its cultivars have attractive
flowers that appear on stiff, upright stems over a period
of weeks in late summer and fall. They are tubular, two-
lipped, and open from the bottom up, in shades of pink,
purple, and white. Attractive green seed capsules follow the
flowers; these look great in dried floral arrangements (hang
them upside down to dry). The narrow, two- to six-inch-
long leaves of P. virginiana ‘Variegata’ are grayish green
bordered in a creamy white. This cultivar is less assertive in
its rambling habit; P. virginiana ‘Summer Snow’ is also less
invasive. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek physa (“bladder”) and

stege (“roof”); the fruits or seeds are covered by an
inflated calyx.
Common Name: Obedient plant, false dragonhead.
Preferred Conditions: Any moist, well drained, and
Physostegia virginiana.
slightly acidic garden soil. Doesn’t like it too dry or too
hot, but otherwise undemanding.
Light: Sun to part shade. In too much shade, stems may be weak and flowers dull.
Management: Cutting this plant back after bloom will not produce a second flowering. Divide every two or three
years to control spread. Staking may be necessary, particularly if grown in rich soil and part shade. Cut down to
crown in winter.
Propagation: Seed (cultivars won’t come true); cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Rust, snails, slugs.
Companions: Grasses, monarda, phlox, aster (especially dark-leaved forms), echinacea, Anemone japonica, Cosmos
bipinnatus, Dahlia merckii, D. ‘Fascination’, chrysanthemum, boltonia.
Notes: If left to its own devices, P. virginiana will spread much further than the two feet noted in the chart.
USDA
Zone
virginiana 2½–4ft × 2ft 4–8 Bright lilac-pink Dark green, narrow, Long-blooming,
(M–L) toothed, lanceolate clump-forming
v. ‘Alba’ 1½–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Pure white (M–L) Dark green, toothed
385-441_TP.indd 385
386 Phytolacca
USDA
Zone
v. ‘Miss Manners’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–8 White (M–L) Dark green, toothed, Clump-forming, not
lanceolate invasive
v. ‘Rosea’ 3ft × 2ft 4–8 Rose-pink (M–L) Dark green, toothed
v. var. speciosa 2½–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Bright lilac-pink Dark green, coarsely Stems tend to flop
‘Bouquet Rose’ (M–L) toothed
v. var. speciosa 1½–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Lilac-pink, white in Grayish green, toothed, Less invasive
‘Variegata’ bud (M–L) bordered in creamy
white
v. ‘Summer Snow’ 2–3ft × 2ft 4–8 Pure white, green Mid-green Less rampant, may
(syn. ‘Snow calyces (M–L) need support, RHS
Queen’) Award
v. ‘Vivid’ 1–2ft × 2ft 4–8 Bright rose-pink Dark green Shorter, dense
(M–L) inflorescence,
blooms later
PHYTOLACCA Phytolaccaceae
“Poke Salad Annie, the gators got your granny, chomp, chomp, chomp.” This was a popular song
in the late 1960s and the only thing we knew about pokeweed until we grew it. There are only a
few species in garden culture. The very tall P. americana and the moderately tall P. polyandra are
what we generally find for sale. Both are herbaceous, going to ground in late fall, following frost,
wind, and rain; sometimes the weather claims them earlier.
Phytolacca americana can easily grow to ten feet in a season. In bloom, tight racemes of white
flowers are all over the upper half of the plant; these are followed by green fruits that, over time,
turn to blue-black, with bright red-violet stems visible through the fruit clusters. This fall show
brings birds, especially cedar waxwings, to the garden stage. The birds spread seed following
digestion, so some monitoring of seedlings is necessary the following spring. Not a thug, but you
can have too many. The other two species do roughly all these things, only shorter. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Greek phyton (“plant”) and the Latin lacca, referring to the lac
insect and the dye extracted from it.
Common Name: Pokeweed.
Origin: North America, Mexico, Asia, Africa, China.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, deep, moisture-retentive soil. Protect from autumn winds,
which can damage plants that are heavy with ripened fruit.
Management: May need some support. Plants come up in the spring and go down at frost.
Remove seedlings as they appear to control spread, or pot them up for new plants. Cut to the
ground after fruit is eaten by birds.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring or fall.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, early on.
Companions: Miscanthus, viburnum, hydrangea, shrub roses, dahlia, tall asters, vernonia.
Notes: Phytolacca is poisonous and must be processed (boiled in fresh water several times)
before the spring greens are edible. Personally, we’d skip it.
385-441_TP.indd 386 12/12/06 4:01:44 PM

Phytolacca 387
Phytolacca americana.
USDA
Zone
acinosa 4–6ft × 3ft 4–9 White, held upright Mid-green Upright, erect, black-
(M) purple fruit turning
magenta
americana (syn. 6–10ft × 3ft 4–9 White or pinkish, Mid-green, purple- Erect, clump-
decandra) drooping (M) tinged in autumn, forming, long-lived,
lanceolate-ovate, 12in coarse, weedy-
long looking, green fruit
ripens to black
polyandra (syn. 5–6ft × 2ft 6–9 Purplish pink, erect Mid-green, to 12in Fruit green then
clavigera) racemes (M) magenta then black
385-441_TP.indd 387
06_12_F08 Perennials A Gardener’s Reference_X.5_G5Q_04_CTP 1/12/07 9:18:52 AM
388 Pimpinella
PIMPINELLA Apiaceae
Pimpinella major ‘Rosea’, a two- to four-foot plant with
very divided large-toothed shiny leaves, resembles a pink
Queen Anne’s lace in bloom. I pictured it making a lovely
bouquet among the bulbs that I plant in my upper bed.
Only problem—they wanted the whole bed! I grow them
and enjoy them, but now know I have to keep a sharp eye
out for seedlings. Seeding seems to be more of an issue in
drier, lighter soils. Theoretically, not all the seedlings will
be pink-flowered, but so far mine have been. ~ Ann Bucher

Common Name: Pimpinella.
Origin: North America, Caucasus, Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Average, moist, cool soil. Regular
summer water but is drought tolerant (deep taproot)
once established.
Planting: Avoid damage to taproots when transplanting.
Management: Resents disturbance. Clean up and cut back
to crown in fall. Best to treat as short-lived (three to
four years), so self-sowing is useful to keep this plant in
your garden.
Propagation: Seed is best; taproot makes division difficult.
Companions: Grasses, Campanula lactiflora, Astrantia
maxima, Anthriscus sylvestris ‘Ravenswing’, crypto-
taenia, geranium, astilbe (early cultivars), delphinium,
aconitum, paeonia, roses.
Pimpinella major ‘Rosea’.
Notes: Best performance with its own space and not too
much competition. Much better behaved on heavy soils.
In fact, one wishes for more.
USDA
Zone
major ‘Rosea’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 5–9 Pale pink (M) Mid-green, Will seed about over
pinnately divided, time
coarsely toothed,
triangular-rounded
385-441_TP.indd 388
Pinellia 389
Pinellia cordata.
PINELLIA Araceae
These close relatives of arum and asarum are wonderful in the shade garden. They have the
usual hooded spathulate flowers with long green “tails” off the usually green hoods. Clumps do
get larger over time but are slow about it. They do very well in pots, particularly P. ternata and
P. tripartita. ~ Bob Lilly
USDA
Zone
cordata 6–8in × 4–6in 6–9 Greenish yellow Green, purple reverse, Shiny black stems,
spathe, curved, with glossy, cordate, veins bubblegum fragrance
hair-thin spadix, pale etched in white
green (M)
pedatisecta 10–12in × 6in 6–9 Green to yellow-green 7–11 segments, many- Tuberous
spadix and spathe lobed, pedate, on a
above the leaves (M) 10–12in petiole
ternata 8in × 6in 6–9 Pale green spathe, Mid-green, ovate- Weedy, invasive,
slightly hooded, elliptic to oblong, 3-part tuberous
slender green spadix,
purple-tinged, at leaf
level (M)
tripartita 10–12in × 8in 6–9 Green spathe, narrow, Mid-green, wider Self-sows
nodding tips, long leaves, 3-part, lobed, on
(10in) spadix, mid- a 10–12in petiole
green, just below leaf
level (M)
385-441_TP.indd 389 12/12/06 4:01:45 PM

390 Plantago
Scientific Name: After Giovanni Vincenzo Pinelli, who had a botanical garden in Naples.
Common Name: Sweet arum, green dragon.
Origin: China, Korea, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil.
Management: Clean up in fall after leaves die back. Mulch for winter protection. Watch for
slugs in very early spring. Do not allow it to dry out.
Propagation: Remove offsets and replant in spring.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, arisaema, hakonechloa, helleborus.
Notes: They get taller for us than listed.
PLANTAGO Plantaginaceae
I never thought I would deliberately invite plantain into my garden. That was before I was intro-
duced to P. major ‘Rubrifolia’ and its bronze-purplish leaves. If you can be diligent about cutting
off the seed stalks, it’s a plant worth having. It does self-sow true, so don’t worry that you’d be
establishing a colony of the green form, P. major, which you probably have already. It would be
a lot safer to plant P. major ‘Rosularis’; the entire plant is green including its interesting flower:
roselike clusters of leafy bracts. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin planta (“footprint,” “sole of the foot”).
Common Name: Plantain.
Origin: Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Most any soil, even dry ones.
Plantago major
‘Rubrifolia’.
385-441_TP.indd 390 12/12/06 4:01:45 PM

Platycodon 391
Management: Cut off seed stalks to prevent self-sowing. Remove diseased leaves and dispose of
them. Clean up in fall after leaves die back. Don’t let all the seed ripen on P. major ‘Rubrifolia’.
Propagation: Seed is usually best; division in fall or spring.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, spider mites, rust, downy mildew, powdery mildew (especially if
too dry).
Companions: Astrantia, dahlia, hemerocallis, Ceratostigma plumbaginoides, Veronica peduncu-
laris ‘Georgia Blue’, Lobelia laxiflora, Achillea ‘Terracotta’, polemonium.
Notes: Plantago major ‘Rosularis’ always gets powdery mildew but is quite a cute little thing
until the day it is suddenly covered with spots and patches.
USDA
Zone
major ‘Rosularis’ 8–9in × 10in 4–8 Short scapes ending Green, very similar to Rose plantain,
(syn. ‘Bowles’ in a tight rosette of the lawn weed produces no seed,
Variety’) leaflike green bracts division only
(E–M)
m. ‘Rubrifolia’ (syn. 1ft × 1½ft 3–9 Green, flushed Bronze-purple above, A very tough plant,
‘Atropurpurea’) maroon, tiny, 4-lobed bronze-green beneath, comes true from
on thin spikes (E–M) loose, basal rosettes, seed
ribbed, elliptic to ovate,
broad
PLATYCODON Campanulaceae
The flower buds of platycodon look like small, inflated balloons (hence the common name). As
the bud matures, the “balloon” expands, appearing as if it will burst, and finally opens into a
Platycodon grandiflorus.
385-441_TP.indd 391
392 Platycodon
graceful lobed flower, usually blue to purple, sometimes pink or white. The genus Platycodon
is monotypic (one species only). Platycodon grandiflorus and its cultivars have flowers that are
borne in clusters atop erect stems. There is a lovely double form, P. grandiflorus ‘Hakone White’.
Each flower has five pointed petals with darker veins and is two to three inches across. Plants
form nice clumps of hairless stems with bluish green leaves. They are long-lived but are not fond
of being crowded or overgrown by other plants. Makes an excellent, long-lasting cut flower if the
base of the stem is seared with a flame before being placed into water. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek platys (“broad”) and kodon (“bell”), referring to the shape of
the corolla.
Common Name: Balloon flower.
Origin: Asia, China, Korea, Japan, Siberia.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, fertile, loamy, well-drained, moisture-retentive soil. Fleshy roots
are likely to rot if soil is too damp and heavy.
Planting: Set the crown about one inch below the surface.
Management: Stems may require support. Do not cut the old stems back when the blossoms
are gone (these help feed the roots); let them die away naturally, and then cut to about three
inches tall to protect the crown. Clear away old foliage as it dies back in autumn or during
winter cleanup. New shoots are late emerging so mark the spot, so you don’t accidentally
disturb or step on them. Takes two or three years to get established and resents disturbance.
Do not mulch heavily over the crown.
Propagation: Seed in situ, or in containers in spring; basal cuttings; careful division in spring
(roots go very deep).
Pests and Diseases: Leaf spot, snails, slugs.
Companions: Fuchsia, achillea, astrantia, nepeta, Knautia macedonica, campanula, veronica,
Aster ×frikartii.
Notes: In the maritime Northwest, platycodon needs full sun and your warmest location; does
well in dry soil once established.
USDA
Zone
grandiflorus 1½–3ft × 1ft 3–8 Clusters of star- Bluish green, ovate to Long-lived, RHS
shaped bluish purple, lanceolate, toothed, Award
darker veins (M) foliage on all cultivars is
very similar
g. ‘Albus’ 2ft × 1ft 3–8 White with blue or As above White Chinese
yellowish veins, large balloon flower
(M)
g. ‘Fuji Blue’ 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Lavender-blue (M) Same as species but not Bred for pot culture
as large
g. ‘Fuji Pink’ 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Soft shell-pink (M) As above Best in part shade
g. ‘Fuji White’ 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Clean white (M) As above
g. ‘Hakone Double 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Rich violet-blue, As above
Blue’ darker veins, double
(M)
g. ‘Hakone White’ 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Double white (M) As above A lovely form
g. ‘Komachi’ 9–10in × 10in 3–8 Deep purplish blue As above Flower holds the
buds opens to blue balloon shape and
(M) never fully opens
385-441_TP.indd 392 12/12/06 4:01:46 PM

Podophyllum 393
USDA
Zone
g. ‘Mariesii’ 12–18in × 10in 3–8 Rich blue with deep As above Semi-dwarf, flowers
blue buds (M) earlier than species,
RHS Award
g. 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Pale pink (M) As above Long-lasting
‘Perlmutterschale’
(syn. ‘Mother of
Pearl’, ‘Shell Pink’)
g. ‘Sentimental 6–8in × 6in 3–8 Intense blue (M) As above Bred for pot culture
Blue’
PODOPHYLLUM Berberidaceae
All podophyllums are rhizomatous and attractive in leaf and flower. Their leaves emerge on
short, eventually lengthening petioles. All leaves are peltate; some are lobed, some toothed, and
some blotched between the veins; P. ‘Kaleidoscope’ is quite unreal-looking, with very dramatic
patterning. The flowers, which are solitary or in clusters, are cup-shaped pink, white, or red.
They arrive with the leaves, opening shortly before or shortly after the leaves unfold. Nodding
green, turning red or yellow, fruit follows them, hiding under the large leaves; it’s worth sneaking
a peek at it. All parts of the plant are poisonous, except for the fully ripe fruit of certain species.
~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek podos (“foot”) and phyllon (“leaf”).
Common Name: May apple.
Origin: Himalayas, North America, China, Taiwan, India.
Podophyllum
pleianthum.
385-441_TP.indd 393 12/12/06 4:01:46 PM

394 Polemonium
Preferred Conditions: The holy grail: humus-rich, cool, moist, deep, fertile, well-drained soil,
such as might be found in undisturbed ancient woodland (P. peltatum tolerates drier soil).
Planting: Set rhizomes horizontally.
Management: Does not like to be disturbed. Remove old foliage and stems when plant dies
back. Top-dress with organic material; the young leaves are frost tender. Protect marginally
hardy species with a dry winter mulch.
Propagation: Division of rhizomes in spring once established (P. peltatum is especially easy to
divide); seed—slow and irregular.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, especially on emerging growth.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, epimedium, primula, geranium, Aster divaricatus, pulmonaria,
aquilegia, asarum, hakonechloa.
Notes: Once established, P. peltatum is almost unstoppable and runs long distances.
USDA
Zone
hexandrum (syn. 1–1½ft × 2ft 5–8 White or pale pink, Mid-green with Himalayan May
emodi) cupped, solitary, brownish mottling, apple, egg-sized
upright, under the deeply lobed, rounded, fleshy red edible
foliage (E–M) 12in across fruit
‘Kaleidoscope’ 1½–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Dark burgundy-red, Olive-green and Must be coddled
pendent, under the burgundy over a silver- when young
foliage (E–M) green background,
peltate, 18–20in
peltatum 1–1½ft × 4–9 Creamy-white to Green, glossy, lobed and May apple, East
2½ft+ pale pink, solitary, toothed, 1 round leaf, 2 Coast native, most
pendent, fragrant (E) half-round leaves, 12in aggressive, 1–2in
across yellowish to rose
edible fruit
pleianthum 1½ft × 3ft 6–8 Deep crimson to Green, glossy, marbled, Chinese May apple,
purple clusters, ill- finely toothed, 18–20in dark red fruit,
scented (E–M) across may need winter
protection
POLEMONIUM Polemoniaceae
These are good plants for foliage and flower quality, although some have a tendency to flop and
grow from a droopy position. There are many species, all with merit. Many are North American
natives, some suited to wildflower situations, others to the mixed border; some are fragrant.
Breeding has resulted in good hybrids (relatively new are P. ‘Bressingham Purple’, P. ‘Lambrook
Mauve’, and P. ‘Northern Lights’), but the species are as good as their offspring and have been
growing in gardens for a long time. Graham Stuart Thomas (1990) claims they have been culti-
vated “since Roman days.” Jacob’s ladders are short-lived, but seeding must be easy if they have
lasted so long in cultivation. None of the polemoniums are uncontrollably invasive; they mix well
with other perennials and semi-woody plants by weaving among them, coming up through and
between other, more strongly erect plants that help to support them. ~ Susan Buckles
385-441_TP.indd 394 12/12/06 4:01:47 PM

Polemonium 395
Scientific Name: From polemonion, the Greek name of a

medicinal plant.
Common Name: Jacob’s ladder.
Origin: Europe, North America, Mexico, northern Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Average, fertile, cool, constantly
moist, well-drained soil. Small species prefer gritty,
sharply drained soil.
Light: Part shade to sun. Small species prefer sun.
Management: Divide clumps frequently (every three
years) to rejuvenate the plant. Cut off mildewed parts.
Cut back to basal growth after flowering and clean up in
fall. Taller ones may need staking in sandy or light soils.
Try pea sticks for control.
Propagation: Division; easy from seed (cultivars don’t
come true).
Pests and Diseases: Slugs. Another plant with drought
(wilt) as a trigger for powdery mildew.
Companions: Ferns, artemisia, euphorbia, campanula,
hosta, helleborus, geum, potentilla, pulmonaria, brun-
nera.
Notes: Polemonium caeruleum, P. pauciflorum, and all the
cultivars in the chart will flop and cover a larger spread
then listed. Polemonium caeruleum ‘Brise d’Anjou’.
USDA
Zone
‘Bressingham 1½–2½ft 4–8 Light violet-blue (M) Rich dark purple in Dark purple stems,
Purple’ × 1ft spring, green in summer, compact, full sun for
pinnate best leaf color
caeruleum 2–3ft × 1ft 4–8 Lavender-blue Dark green, pinnate, Jacob’s ladder, long-
clusters, orange oblong to lanceolate blooming, self-sows
stamens, open and
loose, fragrant (E–M)
c. ‘Brise d’Anjou’ 1½–2ft × 1ft 4–8 Violet-blue (E–M) Dark green edged with Flowers less profuse
pale cream, pinnate, than species, more
showy difficult to grow
c. subsp. caeruleum 2ft × 1ft 4–8 White, fragrant (M) Mid-green, pinnate, Long-blooming
f. album oblong to lanceolate
carneum 1–1½ft × 10in 4–8 Pale pink, sometimes Green, hairless, coarsely North American
dark purple fading to divided, pinnate, elliptic native, more
lavender-blue, yellow to ovate sprawling
center (E–M)
c. ‘Apricot Delight’ 15–20in × 3–9 Apricot and lilac As above Long-blooming, a
(syn. ambervicsii 10in with orange eye lovely soft color
‘Apricot Beauty’) (E–M)
foliosissimum 2½–3ft × 1ft 4–8 Purplish blue, cream, Green, pinnate, elliptic Long-blooming, more
or white, bright to lanceolate, hairy drought tolerant
orange stamens (M) stems
‘Lambrook Mauve’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 4–8 Pale lavender-mauve, Green, pinnate Reddish stems,
lax cymes (E–M) compact, RHS Award
385-441_TP.indd 395 12/12/06 4:01:47 PM

396 Polygonatum
USDA
Zone
‘Northern Lights’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 4–8 Clear blue with a Green Compact
hint of purple (M)
pauciflorum 12–20in × 7–9 Pale yellow with Green, softly hairy stems Not as cold hardy
18in red tinge, pendent
(E–M)
reptans 8–10in × 12in 3–9 Pale lavender-blue, Green, not as finely cut, Greek valerian,
white stamens, very 3–9 pairs of leaflets, self-sows
open (E–M) ovate to oblong-
lanceolate, new foliage
has a dark cast
r. ‘Blue Pearl’ 10–12in × 12in 3–8 Blue, fragrant (E–M) As above Arching stems
yezoense ‘Purple 1½–2ft × 1ft 3–8 Blue (E–M) Green, new foliage is Dark stems
Rain’ purple-tinged
POLYGONATUM Convallariaceae
Solomon’s seal is a wonderful woodland plant grown both for the flowers and the foliage. If
you have a spot in the shade (or part sun) this plant will win a place in your garden as well as
your heart. The arching stems look very graceful holding on to leaves that vary from narrowly
lanceolate-ovate to oval. This sophisticated posture continues on through the summer and into
fall and the first frost, when it dies back to the ground. Polygonatum odoratum var. pluriflorum
‘Variegatum’, with its white-margined leaves and creamy white flowers, adds a subtle charm to
the shady garden.
The flowers are either solitary or produced in clusters or pairs, hanging along the lower
sides of the stems from the leaf axils. The blooms are creamy or greenish white except for
P. curvistylum and P. verticillatum, which are lavender-pink. Berrylike fruits, usually blue-black
or sometimes red, follow the flowers; the fall foliage color is yellow. They make an unusual and
lovely cut flower if you’ve got a big enough stand from which to cut. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek polys (“many”) and gony (“knee”), referring to the jointed
rhizome.
Common Name: Solomon’s seal.
Origin: Europe, Japan, Russia, North America, Korea.
Preferred Conditions: A cool root-run in fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil. Toler-
ates dry conditions once established.
Light: Shade to part sun.
Planting: Plant rhizomes very shallowly, setting them horizontally with growing tips curved
upward (the side with the round leaf scar is up).
Management: Top-dress in winter with organic material. Remove foliage in fall after if has
died back, and cut entire plant back when stems die back. Bait early for slugs, which can
damage the emerging pips. Younger clumps are easier to divide: older clumps get extremely
congested, and the rhizomes are difficult to separate; washing is the best way to work them
apart. Rhizomes pieces without a prominent bud will grow but can take a year to come up.
Mark your clumps so you don’t step on the pips in spring.
Propagation: Seed (takes a long time to germinate); division in fall or spring; dig up rhizomes
and replant.
385-441_TP.indd 396 12/12/06 4:01:48 PM

Polygonatum 397
Polygonatum odoratum
var. pluriflorum
‘Variegatum’.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, sawfly larvae (especially on P. ×hybridum).

Companions: Ferns, Galium odoratum, hosta, Omphalodes verna, brunnera, helleborus, tiarella,
trillium, paris, saruma, smilacina.
USDA
Zone
biflorum (syn. 2–3ft × ∞ 3–9 Greenish white, Deep green, narrow, Flowers produced
commutatum) tubular, in pairs, lanceolate, arching in leaf axils, North
fragrant (E–M) stems American native,
blue berries
b. polyploid 3–3½ft × ∞ 3–9 Greenish white, As above Vigorous form
tubular, in pairs
(E–M)
curvistylum 1½ft × 2ft 5–9 Lavender-pink (M) Green, long, narrow, in Red fruit
whorls
falcatum 2½–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Greenish white, Green, pointed, oval, Small berries
pendulous (E–M) reddish stems
humile 6–8in × 10in+ 5–8 Greenish white, Dark green, lanceolate- Flowers produced
pendulous, tubular ovate, hairy in upper leaf axils,
(E) black fruit
×hybridum (syn. 2–4ft × ∞ 4–9 Creamy-white, green Green, shiny, ribbed, Common Solomon’s
multiflorum) tips, pendulous lanceolate-ovate, seal, blue fruit, RHS
clusters (E–M) arching stems Award
×h. ‘Striatum’ 2½–3ft × 2ft+ 4–10 Cream-white, green Striped creamy-white
tips, pendulous
clusters (E–M)
385-441_TP.indd 397 12/12/06 4:01:48 PM

398 Potentilla
USDA
Zone
odoratum (syn. 2–2½ft × 3ft+ 4–9 Creamy-white, green Green, lanceolate-ovate, Fragrant Solomon’s
japonicum) tips, pendulous, arching angular stems seal, black fruit,
fragrant (E–M) spreads slowly
o. var. pluriflorum 2–2½ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Cream-white, green Green, smaller, oval, tip Arching stems, blue-
‘Variegatum’ tips, fragrant (E–M) edged in white, reddish black fruits, spreads
(syn. falcatum stems slowly, RHS Award
‘Variegatum’)
verticillatum 3ft+ × 2½ft+ 5–9 Pink, small (E) Green, long, narrow, Especially early,
‘Rubrum’ in whorls, dark purple dense clumps,
stems spreads slowly
POTENTILLA Rosaceae
I feel attached to these plants because my first attempts at propagation by tip cutting, on a shrub
potentilla, were such a great success (my subject was the tough little semi-woody potentilla used
and overused by landscapers of gas stations and road dividers). Would that all my subsequent
efforts on other plants were as good. But enough of woody potentillas, let’s talk about herba-
ceous ones. Most of the garden hybrids have strong bright colors and tough constitutions; all are
good and worth searching out and growing. How can one do otherwise when William Robinson
himself describes P. ‘Gibson’s Scarlet’ thus: “No member of the race has flowers of so dazzling a
scarlet, profuse and indispensable.” That was written many years ago, and with potentilla on the
rise in popularity, we now have many more cultivars as good or better from which to choose! So
look for new ones, especially the doubles. ~ Susan Buckles
Potentilla atrosanguinea.
06_12_F08 Perennials Xt.5/CTP/G4K/01

385-441_TP.indd 398 12/12/06 5:03:08 PM
Potentilla 399
Scientific Name: From the Latin potens (“powerful”), referring to its medicinal properties.
Common Name: Cinquefoil.
Origin: Himalayas, Nepal, Europe, Kashmir, Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Not fussy, poor to average, cool, moisture-retentive soil. Tolerates some
drought. May not do as well in rich soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut back or remove flower stems after the first flush for repeat bloom. This also
helps to keep plants more compact. Cut back to a four-inch dome of foliage in the fall cleanup,
for a clean winter look. Divide every three years; these have congested crowns, so divide before
too developed.
Propagation: Seed is best; very easy from cuttings; division.
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, spider mites if under stress.
Companions: Grasses, hemerocallis, iris, geranium.
Notes: Not every cinquefoil (“five leaves”) has five leaflets.
USDA
Zone
atrosanguinea 1½–2ft × 5–9 Dark blood-red, Silvery-gray, trifoliate, Himalayan
1½ft single, velvety (M) hairy reverse cinquefoil, evergreen
sprawling
a. var. argyrophylla 1½–2ft × 5–9 Yellow, orange center, Silvery, lobed, trifoliate,
1½ft in sprays (M) silky hairs
‘Emile’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Mahogany-red, Green, toothed
yellow edge, semi-
double (E–M)
‘Flamenco’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Bright red with Green
darker eye, yellow
stamens (E–M)
‘Gibson’s Scarlet’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Bright red, single, As above Lax stems, long-
dark center (E–L) lived, long bloomer,
RHS Award
‘Melton Fire’ 1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Deep red center, Green, toothed
creamy middle, soft
red edge (M)
nepalensis 1–1½ft × 2ft 5–9 Dark red, deep pink, Green leaflets, hairy, Nepal cinquefoil,
and purple, purple obovate-oblong to short-lived, good cut,
veins (E–L) oblanceolate, reddish evergreen
stems
n. ‘Miss Willmott’ 1–2ft × 2ft 5–9 Pink with deeper Green, divided Good cut, RHS
(syn. willmottiae) center (M–L) Award
n. ‘Ron McBreath’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Bright red, dark Green, red tints in fall
center (E–M)
recta 1½–2ft × 3–9 Yellow clusters, large Gray-green, lobed, Sulphur cinquefoil,
1½ft (M) narrow, toothed, erect seeds about, a
noxious weed in
many areas of North
America
r. var. sulphurea 1½–2ft × 3–9 Pale yellow (M) Green, lobed, narrow, Seed-grown,
1½ft toothed, erect long-lived
×tonguei 6–12in × 12in 5–9 Soft apricot, deep red Dark green, tinted Staghorn cinquefoil,
center (M–L) copper, small, obovate, evergreen, long-
trailing stems lived, RHS Award
‘William Rollison’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Deep red-orange, Mid-green Clump-forming, RHS
yellow reverse, semi- Award
double (E–L)
385-441_TP.indd 399 12/12/06 4:01:50 PM

400 Primula
Primula pulverulenta and Hosta ‘Golden Tiara’, with Stachys byzantina ‘Big Ears’, Pulmonaria longifolia
‘Bertram Anderson’, and Lamium orvala.
PRIMULA Primulaceae
Primroses, if they weren’t so difficult in so many ways, would be the perfect plant. Primula
japonica, P. polyanthus, and P. auricula are easily damaged by slugs, and P. ‘Wanda’ and similar
types are additionally messed with by root weevils. Through the summer, the weevils eat the
foliage and lay their eggs at the base; through the winter, their grubs merrily devour the roots.
Primula vulgaris, the common primrose in the trade, is not reliably hardy anymore; that large
flower they’ve been selected for seems not to be connected to perennial genes.
The polyanthus group, distinguished by flowers in small clusters on six- to eight-inch stems,
can also be damaged by root weevils. The double group is experiencing a resurgence; they are all
very strong plants, usually propagated by tissue culture, and moderately resistant to slugs and
weevils. Members of the candelabra group can form large crowns and clumps but are somewhat
short-lived; these will seed about in humus-rich soil that is damp (but not flooded) in winter and
spring.

385-441_TP.indd 400 12/12/06 5:09:32 PM
Pulmonaria 405
Pulmonaria
‘Roy Davidson’.
PULMONARIA Boraginaceae
One of the first perennials I put in my garden was P. officinalis, a hardworking plant, starting
with its charming flowers in early spring. The funnel-shaped flowers of the many species arrive
in shades of blue, pink, red, violet, or white around the same time as the hellebores, forget-me-
nots, and early bulbs. Many are pink in bud and change color to blue as they open and mature.
Most are long-blooming. Often their leaves are intriguingly marked and spotted, like a diseased
lung, hence the awful common name, lungwort (it was thought that plants could cure the ills
of the body parts they resembled). They vary in shape, too, from the long, narrow leaves of
P. longifolia to the heart-shaped ones of P. officinalis. Pulmonaria angustifolia, with its blue flowers
under deciduous shrubs, is the showiest form in spring; unfortunately its summer appearance
ranges from ragged-looking to fully absent, especially without adequate water. Leaves tend to
wilt in too much sun but should recover at night and cooler times. Pulmonarias generally retain
their foliage throughout the winter, unless it’s an exceptionally cold one. They are pretty care-
free and self-sow in rich, moist soil, moving themselves about the garden, hybridizing among the
different species and cultivars. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin pulmo (“lung”).

Common Name: Lungwort, spotted dog.
Origin: Europe, Asia, Russia.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, cool, well-drained, moist, acidic to alkaline. They
will tolerate some dryness given fertile, humus-rich soil.
Light: Shade to sun. Shade in dry, hot conditions.
Management: Remove old or diseased leaves anytime. Mulch with organic material, for
fertility and to help retain moisture. Water often during dry, hot periods to keep foliage at its
best (one inch per week). Divide every three to five years.

385-441_TP.indd 405 12/12/06 5:14:19 PM
408 Pulsatilla
Pulsatilla
vulgaris. PULSATILLA Ranunculaceae
This one almost takes your breath away, and I’m sure a sunny meadow full of them would. In
nature, pulsatilla inhabits open slopes and meadows on chalky or sandy soil at high elevations
(Paradise on Mt. Rainier is six thousand feet). The early spring flowers (Pasque is the old word
for Easter, hence the common name) are cup-shaped, cocooned in silky hairs, and surrounded by
feathery foliage. Lavender is the usual color. The seedheads, which resemble those of clematis,
are attractive and may be dried for arrangements. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Latin pulso (“strike,” “beat”).

Common Name: Pasque flower.
Origin: Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Reasonably fertile, limy soil. Poor, rocky soil is best, if nature is the
indicator. No competition.
Light: Sun.
Planting: They don’t transplant well. Don’t plant where other plants may overcrowd them.
Management: Best if left undisturbed. Remove dead foliage before new growth starts in the
spring. Some may rot off at the neck and die when in full bloom. A top dressing of grit or
crushed rock may prevent this. Cut back stems that have flowered in winter, leaving any
basal growth. Do not mulch over the crowns of these plants!

385-441_TP.indd 408 1/12/07 9:21:53 AM
410 Ranunculus
Ranunculus ficaria
‘Green Petal’.

Planting: Newly purchased or divided plants should not be planted too deeply.
Management: Ranunculus ficaria goes dormant by summer and is not bothered by drought
during this time; cut others back in the fall. All can be heavily mulched for the winter if
necessary.
Propagation: By seed as soon as ripe or by division in spring. Named varieties should be propa-
gated by division, as the seedlings will not be true.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs and snails are a big problem; mildew can afflict R. aconitifolius. The
tubers of R. ficaria are very small, like chubby rice grains; they move around easily and can
themselves become a pest, especially if moles are in your garden.
Companions: Cornus mas, C. stolonifera, Carex elata, ajuga, acorus, Anthriscus sylvestris
‘Ravenswing’, forsythia, early spring bulbs (narcissus, muscari), brunnera, primula, crocus;
R. ficaria ‘Brazen Hussy’ looks fantastic grown with Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’
and Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’.
Notes: Again, beware: they can be aggressive. Remove any rogue seedlings of R. ficaria in your
plantings, as each cultivar grows differently, making a messy look. In the chart, the symbol
' = infinite spread.
USDA
Zone
aconitifolius ‘Flore 2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Tight pompoms of Deeply cut, dark green Fair maids of France,
Pleno’ double white, tinted fair maids of Kent,
green in the center difficult to grow,
(E–M) RHS Award
acris 1–2ft × 10in 4–8 Pale yellow (E) Mid-green, divided, Tall buttercup, erect,
soft, 3-lobed grow in a pot

385-441_TP.indd 410 12/12/06 5:18:30 PM
Ranunculus 411
USDA
Zone
constantino- 1–1½ft × 5–9 Yellow with pale Deeply toothed, slightly Clump-forming,
politanus ‘Plenus’ 1½ft yellow-green reflexed marked with silver, 3- noninvasive
sepals, large, glossy, lobed, mid-green, basal
double (E–M) and lower stem leaves
are cordate
ficaria 2–4in × ∞ 4–8 Golden yellow, glossy, Cordate, glossy, dark Lesser celandine,
single (E) green, often with silver dies back after
or bronze markings, blooming, very
toothed invasive
f. var. aurantiacus 2–4in × 12in 4–8 Coppery-orange, Silvery with bronze
(syn. ‘Cupreus’) darker on reverse, central markings, green
glossy (E) and gray mottling,
cordate
f. ‘Brambling’ 2–4in × 12in 4–8 Golden yellow, single, Silver-gray and green Striking foliage
tiny (E) with some purple
markings in a lacelike
pattern
f. ‘Brazen Hussy’ 2–4in × 12in 4–8 Golden yellow with a Glossy, deep Christopher Lloyd
bronze reverse, glossy chocolate-bronze introduction, one of
(E) the best for foliage
f. ‘Collarette’ (syn. 2–3in × 12in 4–8 Bright yellow, single, Green with bronze Petal-like stamens
‘E. A. Bowles’) tufted center with a central band, clumping give it a double
collar of larger yellow appearance,
petals (E) charming
f. ‘Coppernob’ 2–4in × 10in 4–8 Coppery-orange Dark maroon, long Starlike flower, slow
fading to yellow then petioles to establish
to white (E)
f. ‘Double Mud’ 2–3in × 10in 4–8 Creamy-white, tinted Green Slow grower
grayish purple on
reverse, double (E)
f. flore-pleno 3–5in × 12in 4–8 Double yellow with a Green in a round clump Very vigorous to
tight green center (E) invasive, spreads by
seed and tubers
f. ‘Green Petal’ 2–3in × 10in 4–8 Greenish, yellow- Green, cordate, marbled Slow grower
streaked, semi-double
(E)
f. ‘Primrose’ 2–4in × 12in 4–8 Lemon-yellow fading Mottled silver
to cream (E)
f. ‘Randall’s White’ 2–5in × 12in 4–8 Creamy-white with Green Vigorous, a good
darker reverse on heavy bloomer, seeds
petals, large (E) aggressively
repens ‘Buttered 3–5in × ∞ 4–8 Yellow (E) Bright yellow-green Invasive, variegated
Popcorn’ with silvery-golden form of creeping
center and silvery-green buttercup
edge, serrated
r. var. pleniflorus 1–2ft × ∞ 4–8 Bright yellow with Mid-green, 3-lobed, Erect, fast-
pale yellow sepals, glossy, deeply cut, hairy spreading, much
double, glossy (E–M) larger

412 Rehmannia
REHMANNIA Scrophulariaceae
Rehmannia elata is soft and fuzzy, tropical in look but tender

in temperament. This is a plant with a long bloom season
and a short life span. Its large, purplish pink to mauve,
two-lipped flowers are snapdragonlike; its leaves are hairy,
coarsely lobed, and ovate-oblong, forming basal rosettes. A
useful plant to fill a temporary vacancy but don’t plan on it
as a permanent resident. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After German physician John Rehmann.

Common Name: Chinese foxglove.
Origin: China.
Preferred Conditions: Nice and warm, in a woodland
loamy site. Moist, well-drained, moderately fertile,
humus-rich soil.
Light: Part shade. Tolerates morning sun.
Management: Cut back when leaves die back.
Propagation: Seed in late winter; root cuttings in late
autumn.
Companions: Hardy fuchsias, helleborus, geranium,
smilacina, polygonatum, Arum italicum.
Notes: Often treated as a biennial in the Pacific Northwest,
where it is short-lived and cannot long endure the cool,
wet winters.
Rehmannia elata.
USDA
Zone
elata (syn. 2–3ft × 1½ft 8–10 Purplish pink to Mid-green, coarsely Clump-forming,
angulata) mauve, yellow and lobed, hairy RHS Award
red spotted throat
(E–M)

385-441_TP.indd 412 12/12/06 5:20:07 PM
Rheum 413
RHEUM Polygonaceae
Rhubarb forms very large leaves with long, thick (sometimes

tasty) stalks. We’re not concerned with the common culinary
rhubarb here (R. ×hybridum); although it too has wonderful
big, crinkly leaves that are showy enough for a prominent
spot in the garden, it’s usually grown for the delicious red-
tinted leafstalks, which are used like fruit in pies and sauces.
The ornamental rheums are large plants with very inter-
esting basal leaves, round to heart-shaped or ovate and
up to three feet across; R. palmatum has palmately lobed
leaves, with some forms deeply cut. The flower panicles are
held well above the foliage; the individual flowers are star-
shaped in shades of white to wine-red, and are followed
by small red to brownish seeds. All rheum leaves are green
with red veins, some with contrasting red tints beneath,
and all are poisonous. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From rheon, the Greek name for rhubarb.

Common Name: Rhubarb.
Origin: Himalayas to China.
Preferred Conditions: Grow near water or in a moist border
or woodland garden (but not with wet feet). Fertile, humus-
rich, deep loam. Performs best without competition.
Management: Mulch rheums in early spring with organic
matter; they are heavy feeders. Cut back in fall when
stems and leaves die back.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring. Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum’.
Pests and Diseases: Root rot, rust, crown rot, slugs.
Companions: Large ferns, hemerocallis, monarda, ligularia, telekia, and other large-scale perennials.
USDA
Zone
‘Ace of Hearts (syn. 4ft × 3ft 5–9 Pale pink to white (M) Dark-green, red tint, Medium-sized plant
‘Ace of Spades’) cordate, veined above,
purple reverse, 14in
australe (syn. 7ft × 5ft 5–9 White to wine-red Mid-green, round to Himalayan rhubarb,
emodi) (M) cordate, wavy margins, red seeds
hairy beneath, veined,
16–30in
palmatum 6–7ft × 6ft 5–9 Creamy-white to pink Dark green, round Chinese rhubarb, dies
or deep red (E–M) to ovate, softly hairy, back in midsummer
palmately lobed, 36in
p. ‘Atrosanguineum’ 5–6ft × 6ft 5–9 Pink-crimson, fluffy Emerge from scarlet Deep purplish red
(E–M) buds crimson-purple, stems, RHS Award
fading to dark green
above, deeply cut,
30–36in
p. var. tanguticum 5–7ft × 6ft 5–9 White, pink, or red Dark reddish green Red seeds
(E–M) fading to dark green
with purple tints,
24–30in

385-441_TP.indd 413 12/12/06 5:21:06 PM
414 Rodgersia
Rodgersia pinnata
‘Elegans’.
RODGERSIA Saxifragaceae
There’s no better way to rest the eye in a mixed planting than with bold foliage, and rodgersias
have beautiful large leaves, textured and often bronze as they emerge, with equally arresting
plumelike flowers rising above them. The numerous flowers appear on tall panicles, making this
a most distinctive and desirable perennial. Besides being one of the best bold-leaved perennials,
rodgersias are a good cut flower. They spread very slowly by a tight rhizome. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After American Rear Admiral Rodgers (1812–1882), who led an expedition to
China, where rodgersia was found.
Common Name: Rodgers’ flower.
Origin: China.
Preferred Conditions: Grow near water, in a bog garden, or moist borders in cool, humus-rich
soil. Resents drought and winter-wet conditions.
Management: The flower stems can be removed once they’ve faded, but they remain inter-
esting for a long time. Leaves should remain on until winter cleanup. Our experience is you
can grow rodgersias in less than ideal conditions: give them a good winter mulching and
as much moisture as you can. They will not be as large and lush as they would be in their
preferred conditions, but they are still worth growing.
Propagation: Seed (cultivars may not come true); division is easy in spring, but plants are later
to emerge, so mark the spot and don’t step on them.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs and root weevils, especially if grown in pots.
Companions: Ferns, Iris ensata, Primula japonica, hosta, Helleborus orientalis, astilbe, astrantia,
trillium, Nectaroscordum siculum, trollius; R. pinnata ‘Superba’ makes a wonderful combina-
tion with late lilies.
Notes: Divisions take one year to settle into the garden or pot. All rodgersias spread slowly
beyond the listed size.

385-441_TP.indd 414 12/12/06 5:23:26 PM
Rodgersia 415
Rodgersia pinnata and Aruncus sylvestris in flower with Geranium sylvaticum, Campanula latiloba ‘Hidcote
Amethyst’, and Tropaeolum speciosum, scrambling through the yew hedge.
USDA
Zone
aesculifolia 3–5ft × 3ft 5–8 Creamy-white to Bronze-green, horse- Clump-forming,
pink, fluffy clusters, chestnutlike, deeply woolly red-brown
24in long (M) veined, 5–7 obovate stalks
leaflets
henrici 3–4ft × 3ft 5–8 Rose-pink aging to Green with bronzy- Dark red seed
red, 18in long (M) purple tints, turning capsules, bright red
dark green, palmate stalks
pinnata 3–4ft × 3ft 5–8 Yellowish white to Dark green, glossy, Featherleaf
pink or red, 12–18in odd pinnate, crinkled, rodgersia, reddish
long (M) veined, 5–9 obovate stalks
pairs
385-441_TP.indd 415
Romneya 417
Romneya coulteri.
USDA
Zone
coulteri 5–8ft × ∞ 6–10 White, raised tuft Bluish green with jagged Fragrant, RHS
of golden yellow edges Award
stamens, silky, 5in
across (M–L)
c. ‘Butterfly’ 5–6ft × ∞ 6–10 White, round As above Branching, fragrant
overlapping petals,
5in across (M)
c. ‘White Cloud’ 5–6ft × ∞ 6–10 White, 6in across As above Vigorous, fragrant,
(M) RHS Award
385-441_TP.indd 417
Rudbeckia 419
Rudbeckia fulgida var.

sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’.
RUDBECKIA Asteraceae
Bold, bright yellow daisy flowers in huge sweeps across the Midwest prairies—conjures up quite
an image. I really do wish I could duplicate this black-eyed Susan show in my under-the-trees
garden, but I can’t. With that said, this North American native is gaining popularity outside of its
natural habitat of moist, sun-soaked, well-drained meadow, thanks to such cultivars as R. fulgida
var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ (which is probably the best known, having won the Perennial Plant
Association’s Plant of the Year in 1999 and an Award of Garden Merit from the RHS).
The leaves of rudbeckias are oblong to lanceolate-ovate, dark green to gray-green, glossy or
sometimes slightly hairy. The flowers are usually solitary or in cymes and made up of petal-like
ray florets that radiate from a prominent central disk or cone. This disk is dark brown, black, or
green and varies in size and form, some being showier than others. The flowers are held above
the leaves on strong stems and offer winter interest if left on until spring. Birds will appreciate
the seeds too. Most make good cut flowers. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After Olof Rudbeck the elder (1630–1702) and the younger (1660–1740),
father-son pair of Swedish botanists.
Common Name: Coneflower, black-eyed Susan.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, moisture-retentive soil. Don’t let them dry out.
Light: Sun, sun, and more sun.
Management: Remove some of the flowers to stimulate continued bloom. Deadhead the spent
blooms to keep them looking good (R. fulgida doesn’t need deadheading). Divide them every
four years or so. Pinch out the tips of R. laciniata ‘Herbstsonne’ when two feet tall to curb its
height. Some may need staking.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring; stem cuttings in spring.
385-441_TP.indd 419
422 Salvia
Preferred Conditions: Any average, moderately fertile soil. Rumex sanguineus var. sanguineus is
happiest in dry soil; R. hydrolapathum is at its best in wet soils (and can take even heavy soil).
Light: Sun to part shade. Sun for R. sanguineus var. sanguineus.
Management: All rumex respond positively to a manure mulch. Cut back when foliage dies
down in the fall. If leaf miners are present on R. hydrolapathum, remove infected leaves
immediately; new ones will grow.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring or fall (with protection from cold).
Pests and Diseases: Leaf miners, aphids, slugs.
Companions: Ostrich plume ferns, selinum, Primula japonica, telekia, Persicaria amplexicaulis,
astilbe (tall forms), Phalaris arundinacea var. picta. In the chart, the symbol ∞ = infinite spread.
SALVIA Lamiaceae
We deal with the herbaceous perennial salvias here (for all the rest, we recommend Betsy
Clebsch’s monograph on salvias). Most of those we discuss will benefit from some form of support;
a day of drizzle will weigh down the flowers and flop the stems down to ground level. Pea sticks
work well for S. azurea, the taller S. nemorosa, S. uliginosa, and S. verticillata. To discourage their
tendency to legginess, plant in full sun and use fertilizer carefully: manure mulch, unfortunately,
makes them grow like crazy and too soft—they’ll be snapping and flopping about even more.
When using salvias as a cut flower, recut their stems underwater in the final vase. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Latin salvus (“safe,” “well”), referring to their medicinal qualities.
Common Name: Sage.
Origin: North America, South America, Europe, Asia, Africa.
Preferred Conditions: A spot with good air circulation and well-drained, fertile but not-too-
rich soil.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Do not bury the crown.
Salvia uliginosa.
385-441_TP.indd 422
Sanguinaria 425
Sanguinaria canadensis
f. multiplex.
SANGUINARIA Papaveraceae
This woodlander, native to the east coast of North America, is a winner despite its very short
bloom season. The cup-shaped white flowers arrive very early in the year. The scalloped leaves,
which have five to nine lobes, are very attractive. It spreads by rhizomes, but gently. Sanguinaria
is perfectly happy to go dormant if denied summer moisture. Best in a deciduous woodland, with
sun in spring and no additional water. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Latin sanguis (“blood”), referring to the red interior of the rhizomes.
Common Name: Bloodroot.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, moderately fertile, well-drained, moist soil. Tolerates
drier soil if well shaded after flowering.
Light: Shade to part shade. Tolerates sun if soil is moist.
Management: Mulch only lightly. This is a spring ephemeral and basically takes care of itself.
Propagation: Division when dormant in August (can be temperamental when divided); seed.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs in early spring as leaves emerge.
Companions: Trillium, hepatica, pulmonaria, primula, uvularia, jeffersonia, Athyrium nippon-
icum cultivars, erythronium; the spring woodland garden.
Notes: Get one or two sanguinarias, plant them, and leave them alone!
USDA
Zone
canadensis 6in × 12in+ 4–9 White, tinged pink, Blue-green, with grayish Bloodroot, self-sows,
yellow stamens (E) green reverse, lobed summer dormant
c. f. multiplex (syn. 6in × 12in+ 4–9 White, double, yellow Grayish green, lobed Sterile,
‘Flore Pleno’) stamens (E) long-blooming
c. f. multiplex 6in × 12in+ 4–9 White, double (E) As above RHS Award
‘Plena’
385-441_TP.indd 425
Saponaria 427
SAPONARIA Caryophyllaceae
Saponaria officinalis has a long and interesting history.

Because of its ability to produce a soapy lather, this species
has figured in several ways for the purpose of washing and
is still cultivated for that use. Woolens are washed with it in
France and Syria; sheep are washed with it before shearing
(it has a disinfectant quality as well); and delicate fabrics
are still gently washed with saponaria during some resto-
ration work. You might even have success applying water
made soapy from the leaves and roots to a poison ivy rash.
Bouncing Bet—for its ability to spread rapidly, bouncing
away all around the garden—is still used as a common name.
The other species are not so invasive and make attractive
flowers for a wide range of situations. Of value are their
drought-resistance and hardiness, and, for me personally,
their cheery, optimistic outlook and charm. I find they will
make a good low groundcover, and will also grow up through
other plants, like Michaelmas daisies, which prevents their
flopping. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Latin sapo (“soap”). Saponaria ocymoides.

Common Name: Soapwort, bouncing Bet.
Origin: Asia, Europe, North America, China, Japan.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, light, humusy, well-drained, and neutral to slightly
alkaline soil.
Light: Sun.
Management: Plants are a bit weedy and vigorous and can be unattractive without a lot of atten-
tion and control: staking, pinching, and fussing over. Pinch S. officinalis in May to encourage
bushiness. Cut back stems in the fall after flowering. Top-dress with organic material.
Propagation: Division in spring; cuttings in spring.
Companions: Fuchsia, persicaria, chelone, aubrieta, Anemone hupehensis and A. μhybrida,
Phlox subulata,
P. paniculata (for S. officinalis); the rock garden (for S. ocymoides).
USDA
Zone
×lempergii ‘Max 10–15in × 12in 4–8 Soft pink double (M) Dark blue-green, Not invasive
Frei’ lanceolate, softly hairy
ocymoides 8in × 18in+ 4–8 Pink (E) Bright green, ovate, Evergreen, rock
hairy garden plant, RHS
Award
officinalis 2–3ft × 1ft+ 3–4 Pale pink, fragrant Mid-green, veined, Bouncing Bet, on
(M–L) ovate, rough, leathery some invasive plant
lists
o. ‘Alba Plena’ 2–2½ft × 1ft 4–8 Double white, pink in As above Vigorous
bud (M–L)
o. ‘Rosea Plena’ 2–3ft × 1ft 4–8 Double pink-mauve, As above As above
scented (M–L)
o. ‘Rubra Plena’ 16–24in × 4–8 Red aging to pink, As above As above
12in double (M–L)
385-441_TP.indd 427
428 Saxifraga
Saxifraga stolonifera.
SAXIFRAGA Saxifragaceae
Saxifraga is a large genus of low-growing, mostly mounding or mat-forming plants, many of which
are alpines more suited to the rock garden. The ones we have included here are used in the border
or in a woodland setting. They are grown for their lovely leaves as well as their flowers, and most
are evergreen (see chart). The leaves are variable in form and are of heavy substance, either smooth
or hairy, with some forming rosettes. The flowers are five-petaled, cup- or star-shaped, white or in
shades of pink, and stand airily well above the foliage. Saxifrages are easy plants to grow and add a
lot of interest when allowed to spread naturally into large colonies. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin saxum (“rock”) and frango (“to break”): those growing natu-
rally in rock crevices appear to have broken the rocks.
Common Name: Saxifrage.
Origin: Japan, China, Korea.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, cool, neutral to slightly acid, moisture-retentive soil, rich
in loam.
Planting: Plant high so crowns don’t get soggy.
Management: Cut back faded flower stems. Divide when center begins to fall apart. Clean up
in the fall. Mulch to protect from early spring frost, but not over the crown.
Propagation: Division in spring for herbaceous ones, anytime for the evergreen types except in
summer heat.
Pests and Diseases: Crown rot (in wet soils), root weevil grubs (over winter), aphids, snails,
slugs, spider mites.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, primula, arisaema, geranium, astilbe, Aruncus aethusifolius, Viola
cornuta, hakonechloa.
Notes: Look for cultivars of S. fortunei with striking foliage in reds, maroons, and variegated;
these are all short-lived and susceptible to root weevil damage.

430 Scabiosa
Scabiosa caucasica
‘Perfecta Alba’.
Propagation: Best from seed or stem cuttings; division in spring.

Pests and Diseases: Slugs on young seedlings.
Companions: Coreopsis, hemerocallis, heliopsis, agastache, dianthus, campanula, delphinium,
nepeta, calamintha, salvia, stachys; suited to the sunny border and the cottage garden.
Notes: These are short-lived perennials, known to bloom themselves almost to death even if
deadheaded—something the marketers won’t tell you.
USDA
Zone
‘Butterfly Blue’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Lavender-blue, 2in Gray-green, deeply Semi-evergreen,
(E–L) cut, hairy, ovate to long-blooming, 2000
lanceolate PPA Award
caucasica 1½–2½ft × 4–9 Pale lavender-blue, Gray-green, smooth, Needs moisture
1½ft 2½–3in (M–L) lanceolate during flowering
season
c. var. alba 1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 White, 3in (M–L) As above
c. ‘Clive Greaves’ 2–2½ft × 4–9 Lavender-blue, dark Not the nicest you’ve RHS Award
1½ft bracts, 3in (M–L) ever seen
c. ‘Fama’ 1½–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 Sky-blue, 3in (M–L) Gray-green, smooth,
lanceolate
c. House’s Hybrids 1½–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 White and blue, As above
shaggy, semi-double,
3in (M–L)
c. ‘Kompliment’ 12–24in × 18in 4–9 Dark lavender-blue, As above
3in (M–L)
c. Perfecta Series 12–24in × 18in 4–9 Lavender-blue, As above Strong stems
fringed, 2½in (M–L)

Schizostylis 431
USDA
Zone
c. Perfecta Series 12–24in × 18in 4–9 White, 3in (M–L) As above As above
‘Perfecta Alba’
c. ‘Miss Willmott’ 2–3ft × 2ft 4–9 Creamy-white, 3in As above RHS Award
(M–L)
columbaria (syn. 1½–2½ft × 5–8 Lavender-blue, 2in Gray-green, hairy, Long-blooming
banatica) 1½ft (M–L) lanceolate-ovate, finely
cut
c. subsp. 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Pale creamy yellow, Gray-green, felty, Comes true from
ochroleuca 2in (M–L) obovate-lanceolate, seed
deeply cut
lucida 8–10in × 10in 4–9 Lavender, 1½in Green, smooth, glossy, Self-sows
(M–L) ovate-lanceolate,
coarsely toothed
‘Pink Mist’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–8 Pale lavender-pink, Gray-green, deeply cut Long-blooming,
double, 2in (M–L) semi-evergreen
SCHIZOSTYLIS Iridaceae
I love schizostylis in the late summer and fall: spikes of open-cupped flowers with a satiny finish
bloom long after almost everything else is gone. The crimson is my favorite, but there is nothing
wrong with the pink or white. But I hate them in spring, when one has to deal with the masses
(they really do spread quickly by short rhizomes) of unattractive light green grasslike leaves.
They make a good cut flower, sometimes as late as Christmas. ~ Ann Bucher
Schizostylis coccinea
‘Major’ with canna.

385-441_TP.indd 431 1/12/07 9:27:21 AM
Scrophularia 433
SCROPHULARIA Scrophulariaceae
The variegated water figwort is a striking foliage plant, more

moisture-loving than aquatic. Very bold and eye-catching,
it’s best used as a focal point, although it’s not long-lived.
Its large leaves are edged in cream, crinkled and toothed,
and borne on rigid upright stems; the small red flowers rise
high above the foliage and are somewhat inconspicuous in
comparison, but bees love them and find them quite easily.
~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin scrofulae, a swelling of

the lymph nodes, referring to the appearance of the
plant’s rhizomes.
Common Name: Water figwort.
Origin: Europe, North Africa, Great Britain.
Preferred Conditions: Rich, moisture-retentive soil.
Shelter from wind; stems are brittle.
Management: Do not let other plants engulf it. Cut back
to the crown in midsummer (or as soon as foliage and
flower stems begin to look bad); a fresh new crop of
leaves will emerge. Top-dress with organic matter in
winter, but not over the crown.
Propagation: Cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, especially on early young
growth.
Companions: Larger ferns, tall astilbes, Lysimachia ciliata
‘Firecracker’, Phalaris arundinacea, rodgersia, ligularia,
hosta, Iris pseudacorus for its vertical foliage and similar
Scrophularia auriculata ‘Variegata’.
habitat, Persicaria amplexicaulis.
USDA
Zone
auriculata 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Deep red, tiny (M) Light green, splashed Tall, short-lived, a
‘Variegata’ creamy-white with marginal aquatic
creamy margins, large, perennial
lanceolate

385-441_TP.indd 433 1/12/07 9:28:01 AM
434 Sedum
Sedum spectabile
‘Brilliant’. SEDUM Crassulaceae
Sedums, grown for their long season of flowers as well as their distinctive fleshy foliage, contribute
more than their share to the garden. The five-petaled flowers often change color throughout their
life, aging finally to beautiful reddish brown seedheads that can remain a feature throughout the
winter; they are star-shaped, in clusters or sprays of usually flat heads (corymbs). The fleshy
leaves are also variable: opposite or alternate, whorled, and often toothed. Sedums are versatile
and come in a range of shapes and sizes. Some are happiest at the front of the border or among
floppier plants; others are good choices for the rock garden. We’re including mostly the larger
ones or border sedums here. All are hardy, undemanding plants. They make a very good cut
flower and attract butterflies and bees. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin sedo (“to sit”), referring to the manner in which some species
attach themselves to stones or walls.
Common Name: Stonecrop, orpine.
Origin: Europe, Russia, Korea, Japan, China, East Asia, Britain.
Preferred Conditions: Moderate to poor, well-drained soil. Sedums can become too tall in
richer, heavier soils. Most are very drought tolerant but may perform better with average
garden conditions. Best flower color and compact growth in full sun and lean soils. Certain
cultivars, such as S. ‘Vera Jameson’ and S. ‘Bertram Anderson’, and the species S. sieboldii
also need no competition but even so may be short-lived.

385-441_TP.indd 434 1/12/07 9:33:46 AM
Semiaquilegia 437
SEMIAQUILEGIA Ranunculaceae
Semiaquilegia ecalcarata is a prolific bloomer, forming basal

clumps with airy sprays of nodding flowers that rise well
above the foliage. Semiaquilegia looks just like its cousin
aquilegia, but its flowers are spurless. This is a charming
species, sweet but short-lived. Collect and sow seed to keep
it in your garden; it is worth growing! ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin semi (“half”) and aquila

(“eagle”), referring to the form of the petals (which they
don’t have).
Common Name: Half columbine.
Origin: Western China.
Preferred Conditions: Easy to grow in cool, moist,
moderately fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, neutral
to slightly acidic soil. Provide shelter from cold, drying
winds.
Management: Resents disturbance. Deadhead for
rebloom, but remove only the flowering stems. Leave
basal leaves until autumn. Cut back to the ground once
foliage begins to look bad.
Propagation: Seed only.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, sawfly larvae.
Companions: Ajuga pyramidalis ‘Metallica Crispa’, viola,
pulmonaria, primula, erythronium, Anemone nemorosa,
Cardamine trifolia, C. pratensis.
Semiaquilegia ecalcarata with a blue grass.
USDA
Zone
ecalcarata (syn. 8–15in × 10in 6–8 Dusky pale pink to Gray-green, purple Very fine stems
simulatrix) deep violet-purple reverse, very finely
(E–M) divided
e. ‘Flore Pleno’ 8–15in × 10in 6–8 Deep purple, double As above A beautiful flower
(E–M)

438 Sidalcea
SIDALCEA Malvaceae
This North American native is an easy-care, summer-flow-

ering perennial in shades of pink, red, and white. Plants are
long-blooming with the charm of old-fashioned hollyhocks,
but smaller, in both flower and height. The flowers are
wide saucers of five petals, silky in texture and sometimes
fringed. Prairie mallow freely self-sows (unfortunately) but
is short-lived (fortunately). Named varieties do not come
true from seed. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From sida and alcea, two Greek names

for mallow, and two related genera in the family
Malvaceae.
Common Name: Prairie mallow, false mallow.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, moderately fertile, humus-
rich, moist, well-drained, and neutral to slightly acidic
soil. Resents being waterlogged.
Management: Requires little maintenance. Cut back stems
to basal growth after flowering for rebloom. Do not
remove basal foliage in the fall. Some may need staking.
Top-dress with organic material in the winter. Like
most prairie plants, they have a deep taproot and resent
transplanting.
Propagation: Best from seed; division in spring; cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs. Rust can be a serious
problem.
Companions: Grasses, monarda, artemisia, penstemon,
Sidalcea ‘Party Girl’.
centranthus, geranium, echinacea, physostegia, iron
fences, picket fences, the other side of fences.
Notes: Sidalcea candida and S. malviflora are the parents of S. ‘Elsie Heugh’. They are all used
in breeding; these hollyhock relatives have more resistance to rust.
USDA
Zone
‘Brilliant’ 2–2½ft × 4–9 Carmine-red (M) Bright green Spreads
2ft+
candida 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–9 White, small (M) Bluish green, rounded, Rust resistant,
lobed spreads
c. ‘Bianca’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Clear white (M–L) Green, rounded, lobed, Rust resistant, runs
basal leaves smaller like crazy
‘Elsie Heugh’ 2½–3ft × 4–9 Pale shell-pink, Green Self-sows, RHS
2ft+ satiny, fringed (M) Award

Silene 439
USDA
Zone
malviflora 2–4ft × 2ft 4–9 Bright pink to lilac- Bluish green, basal West Coast native,
pink, prominent clumps, round to erect, good cut
reddish veins, silky kidney-shaped, lobed,
(M) more deeply lobed on
stems
‘Party Girl’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Bright rose-pink Gray-green, round to Erect, clumping
(M–L) kidney-shaped
‘Rose Queen’ 3–4ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Rosy-pink, large (M) Bluish green, basal Strong grower
clumps, round to
kidney-shaped, lobed,
more deeply lobed on
stems
SILENE Caryophyllaceae
Silene is a large genus, closely related to Lychnis and with many more members suited to the
rock garden than to the perennial border. Silene dioica (red campion) and its cultivars lend an
old-fashioned cottage garden look to the foreground of the border; flowers are reddish purple to
pink with five deeply divided petals, and they bloom over a long period, from late spring through
summer. The small semi-evergreen S. schafta (moss campion) forms very neat tufts covered with
large purplish rose flowers. The silenes are short-lived but are very floriferous and seem to self-
sow just fine. ~ Susan Carter
Silene dioica ‘Clifford

Moor’.

Silphium 441
Silphium perfoliatum.

Preferred Conditions: Deep, moderately fertile, well-drained, moist, and neutral to slightly
alkaline. Best in heavy soil.
Planting: Needs a location with lots of heat and summer water. In such a spot, the clumps can
get quite large.
Management: Cut back in the fall when stems and foliage die back. Mulch heavily in the
winter, and watch out for slugs in early spring as the plant emerges.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, powdery mildew, rust.
Companions: Helianthus, echinacea, miscanthus and other grasses, liatris, American prairie
plants, prairie dogs. These are plants for the back of a large-scale summer border or a yellow
border—the foliage can be a bit rough-looking.
USDA
Zone
laciniatum 7–8ft × 2ft 4–9 Small yellow ray Green, fernlike, long Compass plant,
florets, darker yellow and narrow, stiff-haired long-lived
orange disk, east- stems
facing (M–L)
perfoliatum 6–8ft × 2ft 4–9 Lemon-yellow ray Matte-green, triangular Cup plant, long-lived,
florets, darker disk to ovate, perfoliate slugs really like this
florets (M–L) upper leaves one

442 Silybum
Silybum marianum.
SILYBUM Asteraceae
Silybum marianum is now on noxious weed lists in many states—do not let it go to seed. Its
extremely showy, boldly variegated leaves make it worth growing, but don’t do so if you live near
agricultural land. Unfortunately, the plant is a prickly beast on each lobe of each leaf, although
the white and green marbled leaves compensate for this. The bad press on this plant may be
traced to the fact it is happiest on the central California coast, where it is a problem for the
cabbage and artichoke growers. At least it is a biennial and can’t get too out of control as an orna-
mental in a city garden. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek silbon, the term for a thistlelike plant.
Common Name: Blessed thistle, milk thistle.
Origin: North Africa, southwestern Europe to Afghanistan.
Preferred Conditions: Poor to moderately fertile, well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil
with average water conditions. Protect from excessive winter moisture and wind.
Light: Sun.
Management: Remove flowers after blooming to prevent self-sowing, or carefully remove
flower stems as they form and retain the foliage effect. Watch for slugs and cutworms in
early spring, as the seedlings are very tempting to them.
Propagation: Seed in situ or plant out when very young.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, caterpillars, cutworms.
Companions: Phlox, stock, hops, four o’clocks, and hollyhocks—a pox on the lot!
Notes: Milk thistle is used to make a salve for nursing mothers and will be extremely large and
lush in organic-rich soil.
USDA
Zone
marianum 4–5ft × 2–3ft 6–9 Lavender-pink Bright green, white Striking foliage,
(M–L) streaks and marbling biennial

Sisyrinchium 443
Sisyrinchium ‘Quaint
and Queer’.
SISYRINCHIUM Iridaceae
Most of the many species of sisyrinchium come from North and South America. A few are found
in nurseries, seed lists, or plant sales but easiest to find is S. idahoense var. bellum. The different
species require rather specific growing conditions, from moist to dry, at different times of the
year; all, however, seem to need full sun. They are charming, dainty plants, worth all the atten-
tion you give them. We deal with the more easily grown members of the genus here; most grow
in standard garden soil. The common name blue-eyed grass is shared by several species native
to the Pacific Coast; the flowers of most of these tend to close on cloudy days, or only open in the
mornings. Some will self-sow easily and given the right conditions will do quite well. Start with
S. striatum and S. s. ‘Aunt May’: these rewarding colorful plants will tempt you to try the others.
~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: An old Greek name probably first applied to another plant. This sort of
unclear notation is quite common with New World plants that were named long after their
distant European cousins.
Common Name: Blue-eyed grass, yellow-eyed grass.
Origin: North America, South America.
Preferred Conditions: Most average, well-drained, moist soil. They like it warm. Protect from
excessive winter moisture, or excessive winter drought.
Light: Sun.
Management: Remove old black leaves from S. striatum (every flower stem causes the death
of the fan from which it grows). Remove flowering stems before seed sets to prevent self-
sowing, should you want to (especially S. striatum). Leave some seedlings to replace dead
plants. Divide often and replant. Clean off old foliage as necessary. Do not cut foliage tips to
clean up the look of the plant; remove only entire leaves. Don’t give them much fertilizer.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed; S. striatum ‘Aunt May’, which is variegated, must be
from division as the seed comes up green.

444 Smilacina
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, some crown rot.

Companions: Small-scale geraniums, smaller grasses, smaller campanulas, carex, armeria.
With S. striatum—calla lilies, grasses, Scabiosa ochroleuca, cream-colored California poppy.
The dwarfs are best all alone.
Notes: In a wet winter, all are short-lived in our heavy soils.
USDA
Zone
‘Biscutella’ 10–12in × 6in 7–9 Creamy-yellow Green, linear An unusual and
(biscuit-colored) (M) charming color,
short-lived
‘California Skies’ 10in × 6in 7–9 Light blue, darker Green, grasslike
veins and yellow
center (E–M)
californicum 12–18in × 8–9 Bright golden yellow, Dull grayish green, Yellow-eyed grass,
6–8in star-shaped (E–M) sword-shaped, narrow semi-evergreen,
self-sows
‘E. K. Balls’ 6in × 5in 7–9 Purple-blue, yellow Green, narrow, Semi-evergreen,
throat, star-shaped sword-shaped long-blooming,
(E–L) shortest cultivar
idahoense var. 6–10in × 6in 4–9 Deep violet-blue, Bluish green, narrow, Blue-eyed grass,
bellum yellow throat, star- linear semi-evergreen,
shaped (E–M) self-sows
‘Marion’ 10in × 6in 7–9 Purple, darker veins, Green, grasslike
rounded (E–M)
‘Mrs. Spivey’ 4–6in × 6in 7–9 Pure white, small (M) As above
‘Pole Star’ 6in × 6in 7–9 Pure white, star- Bluish green, linear Semi-evergreen,
shaped (M) short-lived
‘Quaint and Queer’ 10–12in × 6in 7–9 Mauve, yellow throat, Green, linear As above
star-shaped (E–M)
striatum 18–36in × 7–9 Pale creamy-yellow Gray-green, sword- Evergreen, black
10–12in (M) shaped to linear seedheads, self-sows
s. ‘Aunt May’ (syn. 18–20in × 7–9 Cream (M) Gray-green, cream Propagate by
‘Variegatum’) 10–12in stripes division only, more
tender and weaker
than the species,
evergreen
SMILACINA Convallariaceae
Both the smilacinas we deal with here are native to the Northwest and are tolerant of summer
drought. Smilacina racemosa is also found on the East Coast but in a less robust form. It has
smooth, alternate leaves, and its unbranched stem ends in a large panicle of small white flowers
that give way to many bright red berries. The rhizomes spread slowly, but it’s worth the long
wait for a large clump of this plant. Lean in to enjoy the fragrant flowers. Smilacina stellata is a
quick spreader once established, making a much less dense clump. It is not showy in bloom; the
starlike flowers, rarely more than two, are at the apex of the stems. They flower later and are
also followed by berries, dark red aging to black. It’s a great groundcover for open shade under
deciduous shrubs. ~ Ann Bucher
Perennials_Silybum-Z_TP.indd 444 12/7/06 6:28:15 PM

Smilacina 445
Smilacina racemosa.
Scientific Name: Diminutive of Smilax, a genus of greenhouse plants, which it resembles.

Common Name: False Solomon’s seal, treacleberry.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, humus-rich, deep, lime-free, cool, well-drained soil.
Shelter from hot sun and wind. Tolerates summer drought.
Light: Shade. Best at edge of woodland, or under trees in the mixed border.
Planting: Rhizomes should be planted shallow, with the round stem scar up. When siting in the
garden, know that S. racemosa will always lean out toward the light, making it the perfect
edge-of-the-woodland plant.
Management: Lift and split congested plants in autumn or spring. Old clumps are difficult to
divide—it’s easier if you wash the roots first. Top-dress the plant with organic material. Cut
back foliage to the ground after the fall color (often a brilliant yellow) fades.
Propagation: Seed; division in autumn and spring.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs in early spring, root weevils.
Companions: Digitalis, astilbe, paeonia, trillium, fuchsia, Anemone nemorosa ‘Vestal’, Arum
italicum, Dicentra formosa, polygonatum.
USDA
Zone
racemosa 1½–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Creamy-white, small, Green, glossy, parallel Bright red berries
fluffy, fragrant, in veins, ovate or elliptical with purple spots,
large panicles (E–M) spreads slowly, RHS
Award
stellata 1–1½ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Creamy-white, small, Mid-green, lanceolate Star flower, dark
star-shaped, in small to oblanceolate red berries aging
racemes of 2 or 3 to black, can make
flowers (E–M) large colonies

446 Solidago
Solidago
‘Golden Baby’.
SOLIDAGO Asteraceae
Once again, an American prairie plant that is best in full sun, with summer water and no competi-
tion. Goldenrods, as they are commonly known, should not be confused with ragweeds (Ambrosia
artemisiifolia and A. trifida), the culprits responsible for all that sneezing. They do share the same
sunny wild places, bloom at the same time, and are in the same family, which probably contrib-
utes to the confusion. Many of the goldenrods are invasive, but some species are more garden-
worthy than others and are valued for their late-blooming golden flowers. The elongated flower
heads (panicles) are borne on stiff, branching stems and make a good cut flower for fresh or dried
arrangements. One of the best performers in my garden and a real favorite of mine is S. rugosa
‘Fireworks’. Solidago virgaurea, the common European goldenrod, is used by herbalists for a wide
range of health problems, including arthritis, allergies, and sore throats. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Latin solida (“to make whole,” “to strengthen”), referring to its
medicinal properties.
Common Name: Goldenrod.
Origin: North America, Europe.
Preferred Conditions: Any reasonably fertile, well-drained soil. Tolerates drought once
established.

Solidago 447
Management: Deadhead to prevent self-sowing, or leave on for the birds and fall effect. Dense
clumps may die back in the center over time; remove healthy young sections from the outer
edge and replant, discarding the woody center. Divide every two or three years to help
control the invasive forms and rejuvenate others. Some may require staking. Bait for slugs in
early spring, at the same time you do your asters.
Propagation: Cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew (especially if too dry), slugs.
Companions: Sedum ruprechtii, helenium, kniphofia, crocosmia, achillea, aster, nepeta, salvia,
×solidaster, monarda, grasses, veronica, vernonia.
USDA
Zone
canadensis 3–6ft × 3ft+ 3–9 Bright golden yellow, Green, narrow, Canadian goldenrod,
large panicles (M–L) prominent veins, prone to mildew,
serrated vigorous, invasive
‘Cloth of Gold’ 1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Deep primrose- Green, narrow Dwarf
yellow, 8in panicles
(M–L)
‘Crown of Rays’ 2–2½ft × 4–9 Bright golden yellow, Mid-green Erect, bushy,
1½ft large, flat, 10in compact
panicles (M–L)
flexicaulis (syn. 1–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Mid-yellow, starry Green, toothed, North American
latifolia) (M) rounded native
f. ‘Variegata’ 2–3ft × 2ft+ 3–8 Golden yellow (M) Green, splashed or Vigorous, reverts
variegated yellow-gold
‘Golden Baby’ (syn. 1½–2ft × 4–9 Golden yellow, 6–8in Mid-green Compact, dwarf
‘Goldkind’) 1½ft panicles (M–L)
‘Goldenmosa’ 2½–3ft × 5–9 Bright yellow, 12in Mid-green, wrinkled Bushy, yellow flower
1½ft panicles (M–L) stems, RHS Award
‘Golden Spangles’ 2–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Bright yellow (M–L) Green with gold and
green splashes, toothed
‘Golden Wings’ 5–6ft × 2½ft 5–9 Deep golden yellow, Mid-green Very branched
10in panicles (M–L)
‘Queenie’ (syn. 12in × 10in 5–9 Yellow (M–L) Yellow-green to golden Dwarf, bushy
‘Golden Thumb’)
rugosa 3–5ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Yellow, open panicles, Dark green, crinkly, Rough stemmed
horizontal (M–L) purple hairy stems goldenrod, vigorous
r. ‘Fireworks’ 2–5ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Golden yellow, open Mid-green Flowers look like
10in panicles or exploding fireworks
sprays (M–L)
sphacelata ‘Golden 15–24in × 2ft 4–9 Deep golden yellow, Mid-green, cordate to Dwarf goldenrod,
Fleece’ 10in panicles (M–L) rounded and lanceolate compact,
clump-forming
virgaurea 2–3ft × 2ft 3–9 Yellow (M–L) Green, lanceolate, Common goldenrod
serrated

448 ×Solidaster
×Solidaster luteus
‘Lemore’.
×SOLIDASTER Asteraceae
“Bad Love”—why do I care for this plant so much? Teeny-weeny asterlike flowers in soft panicles
in late summer. That shade of pale moonlight-yellow I’m a sucker for. Thin lanceloate leaves,
often covered with the gray of mildew at flowering time, below which are more leaves that
are dead. I wouldn’t water this one at night; oh, and it seems to be short-lived too, but I buy it
again, plant it again, and then swoon when it blooms. It is a good cut flower, best grown in open
ground with few competing neighbors. When well grown it’s a treasure; when not, it’s a dog.
~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the names of the parent genera, Solidago and Aster.
Common Name: Solidaster.
Origin: Garden.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, well-drained soil.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Establishes better if fed a bit of soluble fertilizer for the first few weeks.
Management: Remove spent flowers and cut to the crown in fall. Frequent division will help
to keep this plant vigorous. Do not allow it to dry out. May need support with pea sticks, but
this is not usually necessary.
Propagation: Division in spring; stem/basal cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew is triggered by even the briefest of wilt, as with many of
the Asteraceae.
Companions: Aster, sedum, salvia, solidago, rudbeckia, coreopsis, grasses, crocosmia, hemero-
callis; the summer border.
Notes: This plant is offered late in the plant-buying season, so it does not make its way into
many gardens. In the Pacific Northwest, give it a good warm site, with full-sun exposure, a
real summer, and minimum competition.

Spigelia 449
USDA
Zone
luteus (syn. 2–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Pale lemon-yellow Green, narrow- May require staking,
hybridus) fading to creamy lanceolate, slightly wiry stems
yellow, flat clusters, a serrated
tiny daisy (M–L)
l. ‘Lemore’ 1½–3ft × 1ft 4–9 Soft yellow fading Pale green, narrow, RHS Award
lighter, a tiny daisy toothed
(M–L)
‘Super’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–9 Soft yellow, a tiny Green, narrow, toothed Cut flower cultivar
daisy (M–L)
SPIGELIA Loganiaceae
Spigelia marilandica is a species for the collector who has to have one of the best plants from the
great eastern forest of North America. The flowers are scarlet outside, yellow inside; when viewed
from above, they look like a yellow star above a red tube. The leaves are willowlike, upright, and
opposite. The roots, we trust, are pink. Extremely poisonous, extremely slow-growing, and slow
to establish, this perennial needs little care. It is wonderful in a pot, all alone, so you can look right
down into the flowers. Voted one of the top ten hummingbird plants in the country.~ Bob Lilly
Spigelia marilandica.

450 Stachys
Scientific Name: After Flemish physician Adriaan van den Spiegel.

Common Name: Indian pink, pinkroot.
Origin: Eastern United States.
Preferred Conditions: Deep, fertile, humus-rich, well-drained, moist, slightly acidic soil.
Light: Part shade. Tolerates sun if soil is kept moist.
Management: Deadhead to prolong blooming. Cut back during the fall/winter cleanup. Divide
periodically.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed in situ as soon as ripe.
Companions: Woodland grasses, smaller hostas, pinellia, Fuchsia procumbens, Aruncus aethusi-
folius, saxifraga.
USDA
Zone
marilandica 1–2ft × 1ft 5–9 Scarlet outside, Mid-green Long-blooming, slow
yellow inside, in to increase
clusters (M)
STACHYS Lamiaceae
There are many good things to say about stachys. These plants look good with almost anything
and are very popular for edging or as groundcovers (especially S. byzantina); but the few undesir-
able characteristics are important ones, and care should be taken to avoid them. Stachys seems
to be the only plant with silvery felted leaves that is prone to mildew, and the dead and dying
leaves can be very unsightly, requiring constant grooming. Growing stachys in full sun with well-
drained soil and good air circulation will help to avoid this drawback. Some gardeners remove
the flower stems on S. byzantina and focus only on the low-growing foliage for its silvery moon-
light effect at dusk and into the evening. The flowering spikes do attract bees and butterflies but
should you not want them, bring them in as cut flowers; they have a long vase life.
Stachys byzantina was an important herb during the Middle Ages, taken to ease digestive
problems and as protection against witchcraft. The leaves were used to bandage wounds, espe-
cially during the Civil War. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek stachus (“ear of grain”), referring to the spikelike form of the
flowers.
Common Name: Betony, woundwort, lamb’s ear.
Origin: Caucasus to Iran, Turkey, Mexico.
Preferred Conditions: Poor to average, moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Drought tolerant.
Management: Remove flower stems from S. byzantina if they bother you; cut back to the
crown. Frost and heavy rains can make the hairy surfaces of the leaves mushy—remove
these as necessary. Clean up and remove leaves (usually the ones underneath) affected by
mildew. Clean the saggy mess on S. byzantina in fall and winter with a pair of sharp scis-
sors, exposing new growth on the lateral stems at ground level, then bait for slugs. Divide
only when necessary; every few years, use divisions to fill in gaps when plants die out in the
center.

Stachys 451
Stachys byzantina in flower with Centranthus ruber, a lone Sisyrinchium striatum, and Phlomis fruticosa behind.
Propagation: Division in spring or fall; seed; cuttings.

Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, slugs, cutworms, usually only in spring.
Companions: Salvia, roses, stokesia, dianthus, sedum, nepeta, Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata’,
acaena.
Notes: Beware of S. officinalis (not in the chart!): it seeds itself profusely.

452 Stachys
Stachys byzantina
‘Big Ears’.
USDA
Zone
albotomentosa 15–18in × 18in 8–10 Pale salmon (cream Gray-green, fragrant, Grown from seed, a
(syn. ‘Hidalgo’) of tomato soup) (M) felty leaves and stems bit tender, will flop
byzantina (syn. 1–1½ft × 2ft 4–9 Pinkish purple, hairy Silvery-whitish green, Evergreen in mild
lanata, olympica) stems, hairy calyces oblong-elliptic, woolly climates, mat-
(M) forming, self-sows
b. ‘Big Ears’ (syn. 1–2ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Pinkish purple, rarely Silvery-gray, felted, Resistant to rot,
‘Countess Helen blooms (M) large, serrated, susceptible to
von Stein’) prominent veins mildew
b. ‘Cotton Boll’ 2ft × 2ft 4–9 Pinkish purple, Silvery-white, felty,
(syn. ‘Sheila cottonball-like, in more narrow
McQueen’) clusters along stems
(M–L)
b. ‘Primrose Heron’ 1–1½ft × 4–9 Pinkish purple, small Soft buttery yellow at Mildew prone,
1½ft (M) first, then pale yellowish doesn’t spread as
gray, aging to silvery quickly as others
gray, woolly
b. ‘Silver Carpet’ 1–1½ft × 4–9 Lavender-pink, rarely Silvery-gray, velvety, Mildew prone,
1½ft+ blooms (M) smaller spreads
b. ‘Striped 1½–2ft × 4–9 Purplish pink, Silvery-gray, woolly, Reverts
Phantom’ (syn. 1½ft striped bracts (M) streaked and splashed
‘Variegata’) with cream and white
coccinea 1–2ft × 1½ft 7–9 Salmon-red with Gray-green, ovate to Stiff, erect stems
purple calyces (E–L) triangular, wrinkled,
fragrant, toothed

Stokesia 453
USDA
Zone
macrantha 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–8 Pale red-violet (E–L) Dark green, ovate to Big betony, may
(syn. spicata, cordate, wrinkled, need support with
grandiflora) toothed, hairy pea sticks
m. ‘Robusta’ 1½–2ft × 4–8 Pale red-violet, large Rich green, large Larger plant, RHS
1½ft (E–M) Award
m. ‘Rosea’ 1½–2ft × 4–8 Rose-pink (E–L) Bright green
1½ft
m. ‘Superba’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Purplish pink, large Deep green, wrinkled, Vigorous
(E–L) soft downy, prominent
veins
monieri (syn. 1–1½ft × 1ft 5–9 Deep pinkish white, Dark green, ovate- A smaller and stiffer
densiflora) shell-pink, or white oblong and cordate, plant
(M) scalloped, glossy
STOKESIA Asteraceae
Stokesia, a native genus of the southeastern United States, has only one species, S. laevis, a plant
best grown at the front of the border. It has evergreen leaves, borne in basal rosettes, and large
cornflowerlike fringed ray florets; these flowers make up for any boredom the leaves may project.
They are large compared to the size of the plant and make a great impact. Some of the many
Stokesia laevis ‘Silver

Moon’.

454 Stokesia
cultivars have deep blue flowers; others are pale blue, lavender, yellow, or silvery-white. They
are long-blooming in midsummer (with some into September) and make a great cut flower.
~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After Jonathan Stokes of Edinburgh, physician and friend of Linnaeus the
younger.
Common Name: Stokes’ aster.
Origin: Southeastern United States.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile soil that is well-drained, light, and acidic. Likes it moist but
may rot in damp, heavy soil. Tolerates heat and drought.
Management: Deadhead to prolong the flowering. Remove spent flowering stems. Foliage can
be cut back to three or four inches to make the plant tidy during the winter. Mulch in winter.
May need support; a summer drizzle can weigh down the flowers. Rather than stakes or pea
sticks, give them strong neighbors to lean on.
Propagation: Division for cultivars in spring; seed for species.
Pests and Diseases: Root rot and crown rot (if too wet), leaf spot, caterpillars.
Companions: Sidalcea, liatris, Aster ×frikartii, hemerocallis, penstemon, low grasses.
Notes: A warm location in the Pacific Northwest yields best flower production; they do not
produce strong stems for us and always flop badly.
USDA
Zone
laevis (syn. cyanea) 1–2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Blue to lilac ray florets, Mid-green, long, narrow, A more weedy look
lighter disk flowers, coarse, glossy than its selections
3–4in (M–L)
l. ‘Alba’ 1ft × 1ft 5–9 White, 3–4in (M) Mid-green, narrow,
glossy
l. ‘Blue Danube’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Deep blue, 3–4in As above
(M–L)
l. ‘Blue Star’ 12–16in × 12in 5–9 Light lavender-blue, As above
whitish center, 4in
(M–L)
l. ‘Klaus Jelitto’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Pale blue, white As above
center, 4–5in (M–L)
l. ‘Mary Gregory’ 1½–2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Light creamy-yellow, Lighter green, narrow,
2–3in (M) glossy
l. ‘Purple Parasols’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Light powder-blue Mid-green, narrow,
aging to deep violet, glossy
3–4in (M–L)
l. ‘Silver Moon’ 1ft × 1ft 5–9 Silvery-white, 3–4in As above
(M)
l. ‘Wyoming’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 5–9 Sky-blue, 3–4in (M) As above

Strobilanthes 455
Strobilanthes attenuata.
STROBILANTHES Acanthaceae
I am grateful to this plant. While not the most exciting thing, S. attenuata is attractive and
survives in very difficult places. Sturdy-looking and bushy, it grows at the edge of the garden,
where the hose doesn’t reach and the soil is sandy. The leaves are nettlelike but stingless and
have a musty odor; they’re not as showy as the annual strobilanthes but still worth having. The
flowers are very similar to aconitum; they begin the day a violet-blue and turn purple by midday.
They are particularly welcome, as they arrive in early fall. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek strobilos (“cone”) and anthos (“flower”), referring to the
dense inflorescence.
Common Name: Stinking nettle.
Origin: Himalayas, northern India.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile, light, well-drained soil. Protect from wind. Drought
tolerant but needs water during the growing season.
Management: Pinch to promote bushiness. Cut back after flowering in late autumn or early
winter. May need a winter mulch for protection against the cold.
Propagation: Usually from seed; cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Root rot, spider mites.
Companions: Salvia, aster, aconitum, helianthus, dahlia, rudbeckia.
USDA
Zone
attenuata (syn. 4–5ft × 2ft+ 7–9 Violet-blue aging Dark green, opposite, Blackish purple in
atropurpurea) to purple, tubular, ovate, hairy, with bud, erect branching
hooded (M–L) prominent veins habit

456 Stylophorum
Stylophorum diphyllum.
STYLOPHORUM Papaveraceae
The celandine poppies are two wonderful perennial species with the most amazing seedpods. They
are relatives of meconopsis, with similar hairy (or furry) seedpods and golden poppylike flowers.
The flowers are brief and small but work well to brighten up a woodland in spring. As with many
poppy family members, the sap of S. diphyllum is colored and was used as a dye in the Americas.
Both it and S. lasiocarpum will seed about fairly well once established but not as aggressively as the
annual celandines of the genus Chelidonium, with which they share flower color, orange sap, and
common name. Both species are slow to settle in and go into summer looking a bit tired, so are best
under shrubs, where they can be hidden by midsummer. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek stylos (“style”) and phoros (“bearing”), referring to the long
style.
Common Name: Celandine poppy.
Origin: North America, China.
Preferred Conditions: Cool, moderately fertile, humus-rich soil. Protect from wind.
Light: Shade to part shade.
Planting: Like most poppies, they do not transplant well, so start with young plants that have
not become pot-bound.
Management: Top-dress with organic material; a good mulch of compost or manure makes for
large healthy plants, but this may also make them flop over a bit. Cut back when foliage dies
down in autumn.
Propagation: Usually from seed; division in spring.
Companions: Anemone sylvestris, asarum, Ribes sanguineum ‘White Icicle’, hosta, Kerria
japonica ‘Picta’, brunnera, pulmonaria, aconitum; good in woodland conditions.

Symphytum 457
USDA
Zone
diphyllum 1–1½ft × 4–8 Bright golden yellow Blue-green, oak-leaf Nodding seedpods,
1½ft (E–M) shape, lobed, toothed U.S. native
lasiocarpum 12–20in × 4–8 Small yellow (E–M) Pale green, ovate, Japanese celandine
18in+ toothed poppy, pale green
seedpods, stick
straight up
SYMPHYTUM Boraginaceae
Comfreys can be pests. Most will grow from root cuttings or cut roots left in the ground when
you try to remove them or relocate them; all, even the groundcover forms, are best used in a
confined space. Makes great compost, but don’t put the roots in your bins. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek sympho (“growing together”) and phyton (“plant”), referring
to its bone-healing properties.
Common Name: Comfrey, boneset.
Origin: Eurasia, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Will grow most anywhere but is happiest in moderately fertile, well-
drained, damp soil.
Planting: Contain the roots of all comfreys with barriers or sidewalks.
Management: To keep foliage attractive, remove the flowering stems of the variegated culti-
vars as they form. Cut back after flowering to reduce spread and improve appearance with a
Symphytum
×uplandicum ‘Axminster
Gold’.

458 Symphytum
fresh crop of leaves; use the same technique as with alchemilla: cut to the ground, mulch,
and then water heavily. The taller ones may need support. Top-dress with organic material
in winter. Watch for slugs in spring and top-dress with plenty of organic matter (leaf mulch,
compost, manure).
Propagation: Division in fall, winter, or spring; seed; cuttings (root).
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs. Can get a bad case of mildew on flowering stems if allowed to
dry out.
Companions: Grasses, Iris sibirica, brunnera, astrantia, cimicifuga, campanula.
Notes: Symphytum ×uplandicum ‘Axminster Gold’ and ‘Variegatum’ are chimeras—only the
crown growth point is variegated, and the roots will not produce variegated plants, so you
must cut and divide the crown; nor do they spread like most other comfreys.
USDA
Zone
‘Belsay Gold’ 2ft × 2ft 5–9 Blue and pink (M) Gold aging to green, Cut back in early
arrow-shaped, 8–10in summer for a second
long burst of gold foliage,
spreads slowly
caucasicum 1–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Red-purple, aging to Grayish green, ovate to Caucasian comfrey,
blue (E–M) lanceolate, hairy, 8–10in invasive, RHS Award
long
‘Goldsmith’ 1–1½ft × 3–9 Pale blue, or pink, Green with yellow May revert,
2–3ft+ fading to white margins, hairy, ovate to spreading
(E–M) lanceolate, 6in long
‘Hidcote Blue’ 1–2ft × 2–3ft+ 4–9 Red in bud, opens Green, ovate to elliptic, Spreading, invasive,
blue, fades to white 6in long takes dry shade
(E–M)
‘Hidcote Pink’ 1½ft × 2–3ft+ 4–9 Shades of soft pink, Green, hairy, ovate to As above
(syn. ‘Roseum’) fading to white elliptic, 6in long
(E–M)
‘Hidcote 1ft × 2–3ft+ 4–9 Soft blue, fades to Creamy-white splashes Spreading
Variegated’ white (E–M) and variegation, smooth,
6in long
ibericum (syn. 1–1½ft × 2ft 4–9 Creamy-yellow with Dark green, coarse, Invasive
grandiflorum) orange-red tubes, crinkled, ovate to
orange in bud (E–M) elliptic or lanceolate,
hairy, 10–12in long
i. ‘Blaueglocken’ 15in × 18in 4–9 Reddish pink in bud, As above
opens to blue (E–M)
‘Rubrum’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Dark red-violet, Dark green, hairy, ovate Upright, not as
nodding (M) to lanceolate, 10in long invasive
×uplandicum 3–6ft × 2ft+ 3–9 Pink in bud, aging to Dark green, oblong to Russian comfrey
blue (E–M) ovate to lanceolate,
10–12in long
×u. ‘Axminster 4ft × 2ft 4–9 Pink to blue (M) Golden yellow, 10–12in Cut to ground for
Gold’ regrowth of new
foliage. not invasive
×u. ‘Variegatum’ 1–3ft × 2ft 5–9 Pale pinkish lilac, Grayish green with wide Cut stems to ground
aging to pale purple bands of creamy-white for new basal growth
or blue (M) margins, 10–12in long and flowers, may
revert, slow to
spread, not invasive,
RHS Award

Syneilesis 459
Syneilesis aconitifolia.
SYNEILESIS Asteraceae
These perennials are worth growing, as a curiosity, for their foliage alone: the leaves look like
furled umbrellas as they emerge from the ground. Unfortunately, the flowers, held above the
foliage, are weedy-looking and a tremendous disappointment. Both species are very slow to
increase. ~ Bob Lilly

Common Name: Syneilesis.
Origin: China, Korea.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Management: Cut back in autumn, leaving about three inches of the stem to protect the crown
from being stepped on—it’s the emerging shoots you want to see. Watch for slugs in early
spring, as leaves are damaged easily.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe; division in spring.
Companions: Aconitum, aquilegia, trillium, pulmonaria, heuchera.
USDA
Zone
aconitifolia 18–36in × 5–8 Pinkish, small (M–L) Woolly, deeply divided, From China
10–12in palmate
palmata 30–48in × 5–7 White, small (M–L) White fading to gray- From Korea
10–12in green, rounded, hairy,
7–9 palmate leaflets,
14–20in across

460 Tanacetum
Tanacetum parthenium
‘Aureum’.
TANACETUM Asteraceae
The best tansy for us is golden feverfew, T. parthenium ‘Aureum’; it is short-lived but will seed
about. Golden feverfew is a great bonding agent in borders where gold and yellow foliage is a
strong element. Never let the plain green common feverfew get established, as it can be a pest
(but for some, this is a good thing). These are aromatic plants and good cut flowers. Related
genera are Chrysanthemum, Dendranthema, and Leucanthemum. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek athanasia (“immortality”), of uncertain application.

Common Name: Tansy, pyrethrum, feverfew.
Origin: Europe, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, well-drained soil that isn’t too wet or heavy. Not too fussy.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut back hard after flowering to force a second flush of leaves and some flowers.
Cut back in the fall, but leave the crowns alone. Conversely, pull out the oldest plants in
favor of vigorous young seedlings. If you get a dense seeding of feverfew in your garden,
be sure to thin your seedlings in midsummer and again in late winter to six to eight inches
apart and leave them where you want them; you will have strong plants by the following
spring.
Propagation: Seed is best in situ especially for T. parthenium; cuttings (cultivars); division in
spring for T. coccineum.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs (T. coccineum), spider mites, aphids.
Companions: Grasses, geranium, salvia, polemonium, campanula, phlox, centaurea, Eryngium
giganteum, verbena, stachys.
Notes: In the Pacific Northwest, T. parthenium and T. p. ‘Aureum’ should be treated as bien-
nials. Some of the other named forms of T. parthenium are best used as annuals.
442_502_TP.indd 460
Telekia 461
USDA
Zone
coccineum 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Variable pink, red or Green, finely cut, Painted daisy, may
1½ft white, yellow center, toothed, fernlike need support,
single (M) short-lived
c. ‘Duro’ 2–2½ft × 5–9 Purple-red (M) As above
1½ft
c. ‘James Kelway’ 1½–2½ft × 5–9 Scarlet, yellow center, As above Bushy, RHS Award
1½ft single (M)
c. ‘Robinson’s Red’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Dark red, bright As above Seed-grown
1½ft yellow center, large
(M)
c. ‘Robinson’s Rose’ 1½–2ft × 5–9 Rose-pink, bright As above As above
1–1½ft yellow center (M)
niveum 1½ft × 1ft 4–9 White, yellow eye, Silvery-gray, lacy, Snowy tansy, short-
small (M) divided lived, fragrant
parthenium 1–3ft × 1ft 4–9 White, yellow eye, Green, deeply cut Feverfew, aromatic,
single (M–L) short-lived, self-sows,
long-blooming
p. ‘Aureum’ 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 As above Golden yellow, divided, Short-lived
round teeth
p. double white 1–2½ft × 1ft 4–9 Double white (M) Green, deeply cut More compact
p. ‘Golden Ball’ 12in × 10in 4–9 Bright golden yellow As above As above
(M)
p. ‘Plenum’ 14in × 10in 4–9 Double white (M) As above As above
p. ‘Rowallane’ 2ft × 1ft 4–9 Double white, large Green, deeply cut with A more open plant,
(syn. ‘Sissinghurst (M) longer petioles slightly more
White’) perennial
TELEKIA Asteraceae
This bold perennial species makes a wonderful effect in summer. The leaves can be as big as those
of hostas, and the graceful yellow flowers are borne on tall stems above the foliage. As an added
bonus, the dried seedheads are like little rounded buzz-cuts once the seeds fall out. When grown
among irises and ligularias in an area with good summer water, plants will stay lush and good-
looking, even in hot weather. Telekia speciosa forms a heavily rooted clump quite quickly and can
seed about. The youngsters are easy to remove or transplant to give to friends; established plants,
with their big, ropey roots, do not like to be moved but still transplant well. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: After Samuel Teleki di Szek, Hungarian nobleman and botanical patron.
Common Name: Oxeye.
Origin: Southeastern Europe, Caucasus, Russia, Asia Minor.
Preferred Conditions: Deep soil and a woodland site. Shelter from strong winds, and don’t let
them wilt.
Management: Remove spent flowers for some rebloom. Watch for seedlings and remove as
soon as possible, before they settle in. Cut back in autumn, but leave stems about three
inches long to protect crown. Mulch heavily; it’s a heavy feeder. Watch for slugs on young
leaves and bait them along with your ligularias.

462 Tellima
Telekia speciosa.

Companions: Ligularia, pulmonaria, Carex elata, miscanthus, Lysimachia ciliata ‘Firecracker’,
Cornus alba ‘Spaethii’, Kerria japonica ‘Picta’; well suited for naturalizing in a large space.
Notes: Used to be sold under the genus Buphthalmum.
USDA
Zone
speciosa 4–6ft × 3ft+ 5–9 Yellow, almost Green, ovate, toothed, A bold, wide-
threadlike ray petals large, 10–12in spreading plant
(M)
TELLIMA Saxifragaceae
These woodland plants seed about quite easily and are therefore extremely useful for covering
large areas. The common name, fringe cups, describes the small cuplike flowers, fringed with
frilly petals. Leaves are similar to heuchera and tiarella (hairy and five- to seven-lobed); they are
evergreen, though cold weather will bronze them up a bit. As with many members of this family,
root weevils are a serious problem for these plants, especially for those grown in containers;
the adults damage the leaves, and the grubs will eat the roots all winter long. Be prepared to
replace plants as necessary. Tellima grandiflora Odorata Group is a good cut flower as well as
being strongly fragrant, but dissipates easily, so plant in a protected spot. ~ Bob Lilly

Tellima 463
Scientific Name: An anagram of the related genus,

Mitella.
Common Name: False alumroot, fringe cup.
Preferred Conditions: Moisture-retentive, cool, loose,
humus-rich soil. Tolerates dry shade.
Light: Shade to part shade.
Management: Cut flower stems to crown and remove
dying and dead leaves in the fall. Pull up any unwanted
plants during the fall/winter cleanup (they are ever-
green and easy to spot). You can cut most of the leaves
down to the crown over winter for a neater look.
With large borders, seedlings in hidden areas can be
a problem: apply a heavy mulch in the spring over the
seedlings to solve this.
Propagation: Seed; division in fall or spring.
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, spider mites, root weevils.
Companions: Ferns, Aster divaricatus, hosta, epimedium,
luzula, hakonechloa, stylophorum, polygonatum,
smilacina.
Tellima grandiflora Odorata Group.
USDA
Zone
grandiflora 1½–2½ft 4–9 Greenish white, Green, hairy, rounded, Erect
× 1ft aging to pink, tiny cordate
fringed petals (M–L)
g. ‘Forest Frost’ 18–28in × 12in 4–9 Chartreuse, fading to Green with some As above
pink (E–M) bronze, silver-splashed
g. Odorata Group 1½–2½ft 4–9 Cream, aging to pink Green, some bronzing to Very fragrant, good
× 1ft (E–M) the spring leaves winter foliage
g. Rubra Group 1½–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Pale greenish, edged Green, aging to reddish Good winter foliage
(syn. ‘Purpurea’) pink (E) purple in winter,
scalloped

464 Thalictrum
THALICTRUM Ranunculaceae
Meadow rues are popular perennials valued for their fluffy

flower heads and finely divided foliage, which is as attrac-
tive as the flowers. They are relatively easy to grow and care
for as well as being very versatile in the garden. The deli-
cate leaves of many are similar to columbines and range in
color from bluish green on purple stems to dark or grayish
green. The airy flower heads, usually in pastels, stand high
above the foliage in shades of lilac, pink, yellow, white, or
green. Most of the flowers have no petals but have very
prominent stamens. Many are long-blooming, and some
have wonderful seedheads. Thalictrums vary in height
from the rock garden species T. kiusianum, beloved of slugs,
topping out at six inches, to the taller border varieties, such
as T. delavayi ‘Hewitt’s Double’, which can reach six feet.
The meadow rues look very delicate, and one might assume
they would need extra special treatment, but their only
requirements are rich organic material and plenty of water.
With all these qualities, many of us find space for more than
one thalictrum. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: From the Greek thaliktron, a name used

to describe a plant with compound leaves.
Common Name: Meadow rue.
Origin: Europe, Caucasus, Russia, Japan, China, north-
western Africa, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Adaptable. Well-drained, cool,
moisture-retentive soil, rich in organic material.
Drought can damage the flower tips as they grow;
Thalictrum rochebruneanum.
spring water is important.
Light: Sun to part shade. Tolerates more sun if well
watered.
Management: Thalictrums don’t like to be moved. Overfertilizing promotes weak growth. The taller species often
need support and will stand a little straighter with the aid of pea sticks. Thalictrum minus is stoloniferous and may
need to be kept in check. Thalictrum lucidum and T. flavum both self-sow aggressively; deadhead to help prevent
this. Cut back seedheads just before they turn brown, which is when the seed is viable. Otherwise, cut dead flower
stems to crown in the fall.
Propagation: Seed; division in the spring (slow to
establish).
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, slugs.
Companions: Roses, aconitum, astilbe, Alchemilla mollis, ferns, hosta, polygonatum, brunnera, smilacina, aruncus,
hydrangea, Fuchsia magellanica.

Thalictrum 465
USDA
Zone
aquilegifolium 2–5ft × 1½ft 5–9 Purplish pink with Bluish green, similar to Columbine meadow
prominent lilac or aquilegia, 3- to 6-lobed, rue, long-blooming,
white stamens, fluffy purplish stems, very good seedheads,
(M) dark in some forms clump-forming
a. var. album 4ft × 1½ft 5–9 White, white stamens Lighter grayish green,
(M) finely divided
a. ‘Thundercloud’ 2–3ft+ × 1½ft 5–9 White, dark purple Green, finely divided RHS Award
stamens (M–L)
delavayi (syn. 3–6ft × 1½ft 5–9 Rosy-lilac with Bluish green, ferny and Yunnan meadow rue,
dipterocarpum) creamy stamens, dainty, 3-lobed may need support,
in open airy sprays prefers a deep soil,
(M–L) rhizomatous, RHS
Award
d. ‘Album’ 3½ft × 1½ft 5–9 White, yellow Mid-green Needs more shelter,
stamens (M–L) high shade, and
water
d. ‘Hewitt’s Double’ 3–6ft × 1½ft 5–9 Double lavender-lilac, Dark green above, paler Sterile, divide
long-blooming, no beneath, lacy and replant every
stamens (M) 2–3 years to maintain
vigor, part shade for
best bloom, RHS
Award
‘Elin’ 6–8ft × 1½ft 5–9 Lavender, pale yellow Silver-blue with purple- A big plant, stiff,
stamens (M–L) tinged stems upright, sturdy stems
flavum 3–5ft × 1½ft+ 5–9 Pale yellow, bright Bluish gray-green Sturdy stems,
yellow stamens, rhizomatous,
fragrant (M) clump-forming
f. subsp. 3–6ft × 5–9 Soft yellow, greenish Bluish green, purplish Tolerates drier soil,
glaucum (syn. 1½ft+ yellow stamens (M) stems, finely divided may need staking,
speciosissimum) spreads, aggressive
self-sower
isopyroides 1–1½ft × 1ft 6–9 Greenish yellow, Steely bluish green, tiny A texture plant
fluffy (M)
kiusianum 3–6in × 8in 5–8 Pinkish lilac (M) Tinted purplish and Dwarf meadow rue,
bronze, toothed stoloniferous, slow
spreader
lucidum (syn. 4–5ft × 2ft 5–8 Shiny yellow (M) Dark green, fernlike, Clump-forming,
angustifolium) glossy aggressive self-sower
minus 1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Greenish, Glaucous, fernlike, Invasive in light soil,
insignificant, with divided, 3-lobed may need support,
prominent yellow some people remove
stamens (M) flowering stems and
grow as a foliage
plant
m. ‘Adiantifolium’ 2–3ft × 1½ft+ 3–9 Yellow-green, tiny Slightly glaucous, More invasive over a
(M) fernlike, finely cut long term
rochebruneanum 5–6ft × 1½ft 5–9 Reddish lilac, pale Bluish green, fernlike, Lavender mist, tall
yellow stamens, in large, 3-lobed, purple- and stately
large airy panicles black stems
(M–L)

466 Thermopsis
Thermopsis
lanceolata. THERMOPSIS Papilionaceae
The false lupines are great plants in the mixed border and will grow in even poor soils. Flowering
is brief but charming, and the yellow flowers do attract a lot of bees. They bloom about the same
time as the later narcissus, such as N. ‘Pipit’. If you want a lupine look, grow these pest-free, low-
maintenance pea family relatives. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek thermos (“lupine”) and opsis (“like”).
Common Name: False lupine.
Origin: North America, Siberia, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, light, fertile, loamy soil. Tolerates drought.
Light: Sun.
Management: Resents root disturbance and is therefore difficult to transplant. Dig around the
clumps once a year to control the spread (root pruning). Cut back to the ground once plant
begins to fade in autumn. In our gardens, T. lanceolata must be staked: when in flower, it is
heavy enough to lean, and then lean further, onto the ground (this doesn’t hurt the plant, but
it looks messy); and staking helps to highlight its wonderful nut-brown seedpods. Try peony
cages or pea sticks in early spring, and let the plants grow up through the supports.
Propagation: Seed; division in fall.
Companions: Narcissus, Brunnera macrophylla, Lathyrus vernus, Lamium orvala, camassia,
hyacinth, primula, chaerophyllum; the spring border.

Tiarella 467
USDA
Zone
lanceolata 1–2½ft × 2ft 3–9 Primrose-yellow New growth blackish, Dark seedpods,
(E–M) fading to green, doesn’t run,
ovate-lanceolate long-lived
rhombifolia var. 1½–2½ft 3–9 Bright straw-yellow Green, silky- Mountain false
montana × 2ft (E–M) haired, obovate to lupine, rhizomatous,
linear-lanceolate invasive
villosa (syn. 3–4ft × 2ft 3–9 Canary-yellow Greenish blue, silky- Carolina lupine,
caroliniana) (E–M) haired, ovate-lanceolate, clump-forming
3-lobed
TIARELLA Saxifragaceae
These evergreen perennials are usually used as a groundcover in woodland conditions. They
are exceptional when grown under deciduous shrubs that are not too dense and get some
summer light under them. Most tiarellas, if given their preferred conditions, will eventu-
ally spread quite a bit by rhizomes or stolons. Some of
the foamflowers are clump-forming, some run—and
some sprint. Together with heuchera they are the
parents of ×heucherella and have many similar charac-
teristics. Look for patterned and marked foliage as well
as deeply divided leaves. Flower stems are not as tall as
those of their relatives, but they are good cut flowers.
~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Greek tiara (“small crown”),

referring to the shape of the fruit.
Common Name: Foamflower.
Origin: Asia, North America.
Preferred Conditions: Humus-rich, cool, moist, well-
drained soil. Doesn’t do well in winter-wet or soggy
ground.
Management: Remove dying or dead leaves anytime. Top-
dress with leaf mold or other organic material, but not
over the crowns. Tiarellas don’t like having their roots
disturbed (main clump).
Propagation: Seed; division in spring or fall (dig up offsets
and replant).
Pests and Diseases: Slugs. Root weevils are a serious
problem, especially for plant in pots.
Companions: Ferns, epimedium, pulmonaria, astilbe,
helleborus, hosta, trillium, uvularia, polygonatum,
spring bulbs, luzula, hakonechloa, geranium, Aster
divaricatus.
Notes: Look for new cultivars each year (recent examples
include T. ‘Neon Lights’ and T. ‘Pink Skyrocket’). The
truly spreading forms are noted in the chart. Tiarella cordifolia ‘Oakleaf’.
442_502_TP.indd 467
468 Tiarella
USDA
Zone
cordifolia 12in × 18in+ 3–8 Creamy white (E–M) Pale green, marbled Good fall/winter
bronzy-red, cordate to color, vigorous,
ovate, hairy, lobed or spreads by stolons,
cut, veined RHS Award
c. ‘Oakleaf’ 6–8in × 18in+ 3–8 Pale pink aging to Dark green, toothed, Long-blooming,
white (E–M) dissected, deep red in vigorous, spreads
winter
c. ‘Running 8–12in × 18in+ 2–9 White (E–M) Light green, red Vigorous, spreads
Tapestry’ streaks, reddish brown
midrib, deeply cut
c. ‘Slick Rock’ 6–8in × 18in+ 3–9 Light pink, fragrant Dark green, deeply cut Invasive, vigorous,
(E–M) spreads
‘Cygnet’ 16–19in × 4–9 Pink buds open Green, purplish red Spreading
18in+ whitish, fragrant midrib, deeply cut
(E–M)
‘Dark Eyes’ 12in × 18in+ 4–8 Pale pink (E–M) Dark green, maroon- Spreads
black blotch in center,
maple-shaped
‘Dunvegan’ 6in × 12in 3–8 Pink-tinted (E–M) Mid-green, dissected Clump-forming
‘Filigree Lace’ 12–16in × 16in 4–9 White (E–M) Green with dark As above
patches at center,
deeply cut
‘Inkblot’ 6–12in × 14in 4–9 Pale pink (E–M) Green with large black Non-running habit
blotch
‘Iron Butterfly’ 16in × 16in 4–9 Pink buds open white Mint-green edges, deep Clump-forming
(E) purplish black in center
‘Mint Chocolate’ 8–16in × 16in 3–9 Creamy-white with Mint-green with dark As above
pink tinge (E) zones, deeply cut,
maplelike
‘Ninja’ 12–16in × 16in 4–9 Pinkish white with Green, black veins and As above
coral tints (E–M) purple-black marbling,
deeply cut, lobed
‘Pink Bouquet’ 12–16in × 12in 3–8 Pinkish, aging to Green with red veins, As above
white, fragrant, pink deeply cut
stems (E–M)
polyphylla 12–18in × 12in 5–8 Pink to reddish with Mid-green, cordate, Clump-forming,
white (M) toothed spreads slowly by
rhizomes
p. ‘Filigran’ 12in × 12in 5–8 Pure white, reddish Mid-green, cordate, Spreads slowly by
stems (M) toothed, more divided rhizomes
‘Skeleton Key’ 10–12in × 12in 4–9 White with pink blush Green, purplish black Spreads
(M–E) mid-veins, deeply cut
‘Spring Symphony’ 10in × 10in 4–9 Dark pink (E) Green, black blotch As above
along midribs, deeply
cut
‘Tiger Stripe’ 12–16in × 12in 5–9 Pale pink (E–M) Chartreuse, marked Clump-forming
with dark veins
wherryi 6–16in × 12in 3–9 Pink buds open white, Soft green, bronzy in Non-running, clump-
pink stems (E–M) winter, deeply cut forming, RHS Award

Tolmiea 469
USDA
Zone
w. ‘Heronswood 10–12in × 12in 4–9 As above, fragrant Tricolor marbling,
Mist’ creamy white with
green and pink
overtones
TOLMIEA Saxifragaceae
Tolmiea menziesii, the best-known species in this genus, is a West Coast native woodlander,
tough and invasive; thankfully, it is easy to control (easy to pull up). The flower is disappointing,
but the leaves provide interest with their piggyback arrangement. This plant will fill a difficult
dry shady area, although it prefers moist conditions. It is good as a green groundcover, especially
around red alders. It also makes attractive filler between hedges and pavement or lawn; it even
enhances the base of chain-link fences. Just keep your eye on it as it marches out, ready to cover
everything in sight. As with most natives that are tolerant of our dry summers, these conditions
in the garden don’t always give you the best-looking groundcover. They are better with some
summer water. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: After William Fraser Tolmie, Scottish physician and botanist.
Common Name: Piggyback plant, mother of thousands.
Origin: Western North America.
Preferred Conditions: High humidity and cool, humus-rich, moist (especially in summer),
well-drained soil.
Tolmiea menziesii.

470 Tradescantia

Management: Pinch back older leaves and stems to keep compact. Top-dress with leaf mold
or other organic material in winter. Mulch around the crown, but do not cover the crown.
Clean up dead foliage anytime.
Propagation: Cuttings; seed; division in spring; remove plantlets and plant or peg down leaves.
Pests and Diseases: Spider mites, aphids, root weevil grubs, especially in pots.
Companions: Ferns, pulmonaria, vancouveria, epimedium, polygonatum, tiarella, heuchera,
×heucherella, helleborus, luzula, hakonechloa, stylophorum, Meconopsis cambrica, tricyrtis.
USDA
Zone
menziesii 12–24in × 6–9 Brownish purple, Pale green, veined, Piggyback plant
18in fragrant (E–M) hairy
m. ‘Taff’s Gold’ 10–12in × 12in 6–9 Brownish purple (M) Pale chartreuse-green, RHS Award
mottled cream and gold,
variable throughout the
seasons, hairy
TRADESCANTIA Commelinaceae
Known and grown since the seventeenth century, tradescantias can be classed as cottage garden
plants. They are best grown in poor soil; otherwise, copious floppy foliage is the result. The
drawback to this is that sandy soil encourages the plant’s incredible invasiveness: a great aunt of
mine grew these in standalone beds, two feet by two feet, in her lawn! They seem to grow large,
thick roots overnight and to increase while you watch; they are also invasive by seed, but not so
much on heavier, clay soils. A charming feature of the flowers is that the stamen stems, in many
cases, are brightly colored (blue, red-violet) and topped with bright yellow pollen. The forms
with dark blue flowers are particularly gorgeous; the clear yellow dots (the anthers) seem to
float in the bowl formed by the three triangular petals. The flower is not large enough, however,
to show well above the foliage. If you want to grow this plant be prepared to spend a lot of time
maintaining it—staking, cutting back, pulling up, and discarding the excess! ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: After John Tradescant, gardener to Charles I.

Common Name: Spiderwort.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, cool, well-drained, and not-too-fertile soil. Keep well watered
during the growing season. Tolerates boggy conditions, but blooms best with good drainage
and lots of heat and light.
Management: Cut back hard after flowering, both to discourage self-sowing and to promote
new foliage and rebloom. Established plants can be cut to the ground when they flop;
regrowth and rebloom are usually very quick. Clean up when foliage dies back in the fall.
Divide when congested, every three years or so. Remove plain green foliage from colored-
leaf cultivars. Don’t fertilize this plant; this may help to control excessive vegetative growth.
Propagation: Division in spring; seed (three years to bloom from seed).
Pests and Diseases: Aphids, spider mites, botrytis.
Companions: Ferns, hosta, Iris foetidissima, I. sibirica, ligularia, heuchera, brunnera, Hemero-
callis lilioasphodelus; the summer border.

Tradescantia 471
Tradescantia
Andersoniana Group
‘Concord Grape’.
USDA
Zone
Andersoniana 1–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Shades of blue, Mid-green, sometimes
Group magenta, red, pink, has a slight sheen
and white (M–L)
A. ‘Bilberry Ice’ 12–20in × 18in 4–9 Pale lavender with Green, purple-tinged
deep blue center and
white edge, large
(M–L)
A. ‘Blue and Gold’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–9 Deep blue (M–L) Golden yellow May scorch in sun
A. ‘Blue Stone’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Blue-lavender (M–L) Green
A. ‘Charlotte’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 Pink (M–L) As above
A. ‘Chedglow’ 1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Mauve-purple Bright chartreuse
(E–M)
A. ‘Concord Grape’ 15–24in × 2ft 4–9 Purple (E–L) Frosty bluish green Vigorous, seedlings
vary
A. ‘Innocence’ 1–2ft × 2ft 4–9 White, large (M–L) Green, purple-tinged
A. ‘Iris Prichard’ 1–2ft × 2ft 4–9 White, tinged violet As above
(M–L)
A. ‘Isis’ 18–20in × 18in 5–9 Deep blue, violet- As above RHS Award
blue center, large
(M–L)
A. ‘J. C. Weguelin’ 20in × 24in 5–9 China-blue, large As above Vigorous, RHS
(M–L) Award
A. ‘Leonora’ 1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Violet-blue (M–L) As above
A. ‘Little Doll’ 12–18in × 16in 4–9 Light blue (M–L) Green Lots of foliage

472 Tricyrtis
USDA
Zone
A. ‘Osprey’ 1½–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 White with blue As above RHS Award
stamens and stems
(M–L)
A. ‘Pauline’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Pink-mauve (E–M) Green, purple-tinged
A. ‘Purple Dome’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 5–9 Rich purple, large As above Darkest flowers
(M–L)
A. ‘Red Grape’ 15–24in × 24in 4–9 Cerise-red (M) As above
A. ‘Rubra’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Red (M–L) As above
A. ‘Snowcap’ 1½ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pure white, large Green
(E–M)
A. ‘Sweet Kate’ 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–9 Blue, large (M–L) Bright golden yellow, May scorch in hot
may age to slightly green sun
A. ‘Valour’ 1½ft × 2ft 3–9 Red with purple Green, purple-tinged
tinge (E–M)
A. ‘Zwanenburg 1½–2ft × 2ft 3–9 Deep blue, large Green, purple veins
Blue’ (M–L)
‘Hawaiian Punch’ 1–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Magenta-pink (E–L) Dark green Foliage remains
attractive
‘Purple Profusion’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 4–9 Bluish purple (M) Dark green, purple-
tinged when young
‘Red Cloud’ 15–24in × 2ft 3–9 Red-violet (M–L) As above A bit weedy
virginiana 1½–3ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Bright blue, pink, or Dark green, purple veins Common spiderwort,
white (E–L) vigorous
v. ‘Rubra’ 1–1½ft × 2ft+ 4–9 Rose-red (E–M) Mid-green Vigorous
TRICYRTIS Convallariaceae
We are so lucky to have tricyrtis. There are relatively few plants that bloom late in the season
in shade, and this is a nice one. Tricyrtis flowers are orchidlike in appearance and have three
petals and three sepals. They appear in the leaf axils and in terminal clusters and may be mauve,
yellow, white, or purple, often with prominent spots. The leaves are perfoliate, alternate, and
often glossy, sometimes subtly spotted. The stems are arching, and the leaf structure attractive.
While some tricyrtis are stoloniferous, they are not strongly invasive. They are a good cut flower.
I continue to try to grow white forms, but they present more of a challenge. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Greek tri (“three”) and kyrtos (“humped”), referring to the swollen
bases of the petals.
Common Name: Toad lily.
Origin: Taiwan, Japan, China.
Preferred Conditions: Moist, humus-rich, moisture-retentive, well-drained, and slightly
acidic soil in a sheltered location.
Management: Emerging shoots can be damaged by late spring frosts, but will usually regen-
erate. Top-dress with organic material. Mulch and water during any hot weather. Cut down
when foliage dies in fall.

Tricyrtis 473
Tricyrtis hirta ‘Miyazaki’.

Pests and Diseases: Snails and slugs are responsible for tricyrtis failure. They can mow them
down (or off ) immediately at ground level in spring. You can have great roots and no tops
even in pots!
Companions: Ferns, hosta, helleborus, pulmonaria, epimedium, podophyllum, polygonatum.
USDA
Zone
formosana 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 White background, Mid-green, deeply Long-blooming,
densely spotted veined and spotted RHS Award
purple, yellow-ringed dark green, glossy,
center (M–L) lanceolate to ovate
f. ‘Amethystina’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 White, spotted purple Green, glossy Long-blooming
and red and flushed
reddish lilac at ends,
yellow throat (M–L)
f. ‘Dark Beauty’ 3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Deep lavender-purple, Dark green, lightly As above
dark spots (L) spotted lighter green
f. ‘Gates of Heaven’ 1–1½ft × 1ft 5–8 Purple with darker Golden Vigorous
spots (M–L)
f. ‘Gilt Edge’ 14–16in × 1ft 5–8 Rose with white spots Green with yellow
(M–L) edges
f. ‘Samurai’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 White with dark Mid dark green with
purple spots (M–L) gold edges
f. Stolonifera Group 2–3ft × 1½ft+ 5–8 Cream to pale lilac Deep green, glossy, Blooms best with
with darker spots, up- pointed, darker spots lots of heat, spreads
facing (M–L)

474 Tricyrtis
USDA
Zone
f. ‘Variegata’ 1½–2ft × 5–8 Lavender-purple, Glossy mid-green with Spreads
1½ft+ pink base with dark yellow margins
purplish red spots (M)
hirta 2–3ft × 2ft 5–8 White with purple Mid-green, hairy, oval Japanese toad lily
spots, colorful to ovate or oblong to
stamens (M–L) lanceolate
h. ‘Alba’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Greenish buds, opens Mid to dark green Weak grower
white with creamy
center, pink stamens
(L)
h. ‘Albomarginata’ 3ft × 1½ft 5–8 White, purple-spotted Variegated with white
(L) margins
h. ‘Golden Gleam’ 1½ft × 1½ft 5–8 Lavender, spotted gold Chartreuse, fuzzy Reasonably vigorous
(L)
h. ‘Miyazaki’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 White, spotted lilac, Mid-green, hairy Flowers in the leaf
purple, and black, axils
yellow eye (M–L)
h. ‘Moonlight’ 20in × 1½ft 5–8 White, purple-spotted Golden green
(M–L)
h. ‘Variegata’ 15–20in × 5–8 White, spotted purple Light green, creamy
1½ft and maroon, recurved margins, hairy
petals (M–L)
‘Hototogisu’ 2–2½ft × 1ft 5–8 Blue tinge with purple Mid-green Distinctive flower
spots and white center color, vigorous
(M–L)
‘Kohaku’ 1½ft × 1ft 5–8 White with purple As above Lax habit
spots and yellow
center (M–L)
latifolia (syn. 2–3ft × 2ft+ 6–8 Yellow with red- Light green, obovate to Spreads
bakeri) brown spots (M–L) oblong to ovate, smooth
macrantha 1–2½ft × 8–9 Yellow, spotted red- Bright green, broadly Prefers shade, hairy
1½ft brown, large, pendent ovate-oblong to oval, arching stems
(M–L) shining
macropoda (syn. 1½–3ft × 5–8 White, purple spots, Mid-green, rounded,
dilatata) 1½ft large (M) ovate to oblong, deeply
veined
maculata 2½ft × 1½ft 5–8 Greenish, whitish, Green, oblong
yellowish, reddish
purple spots (M)
‘Shimone’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Dark-maroon buds Green, glossy, deeply
open white, splashed veined and mottled
purple and maroon,
large (M–L)
‘Tojen’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 5–8 Lavender-purple, Dark green, hairy
white center and
darker tips, unspotted,
large (M–L)
‘White Towers’ 2–3ft × 1ft 5–8 White (M–L) Mid-green, hairy

Trifolium 475
Trifolium pratense
‘Susan Smith’.
TRIFOLIUM Papilionaceae
Ornamental clover? Jumbo shrimp? Don’t let these relatives of the clover we all know as a lawn
and garden weed escape. They do not appear to seed about, but you should still be careful. The
purple-leaf trifoliums in particular are a wonderful color for the edge of pots or a controlled spot
in the garden. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: From the Latin tri (“three”) and folium (“leaf”); the leaves have three leaflets.
Common Name: Clover.
Origin: Worldwide.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Moderate water needs.
Light: Sun.
Planting: Site in corners and niches, so they can’t run or escape.
USDA
Zone
pratense ‘Susan 6in × 18in+ 6–9 Pink on spikelike Green with gold Mat-forming
Smith’ (syn. ‘Gold racemes (M) veining, obovate to
Net’) elliptic leaflets
repens ‘Green Ice’ 4–6in × 2ft+ 4–9 Cream (M) Dark green with a As above
(syn. ‘Ice Cool’) frosted mint-green
center and pale green
patterns
r. ‘Purpurascens’ 4–6in × 2ft+ 4–9 Reddish purple (M) Green margins, dark As above
maroon central zone,
can have 4 leaflets
r. ‘Purpurascens 4–6in × 2ft+ 4–9 White, small (M) Deep maroon, tinted As above
Quadrifolium’ brown, edged light
green, 4 leaflets

476 Trillium
Management: Leaf color bleaches out by midsummer, at which point we recommend you cut
the entire plant back and water well to encourage new growth. This management technique
is extremely effective on T. pratense ‘Susan Smith’ and T. repens ‘Green Ice’; the purple-leaf
trifoliums do not respond as well. Cut back plants whenever they begin to look scraggly,
or in fall/winter cleanup (water well if cut back in midsummer). Watch for slugs in early
spring—why won’t they eat the common white-flowered clover (T. repens) instead?
Propagation: Division in spring; detach rooted stems from main plant to form new plants.
Pests and Diseases: It’s hard to understand how such a strong plant can have any pests, but
slugs can gnaw the first flush of spring growth right to the ground, and powdery mildew and
spider mites can cause a summer decline.
Companions: Foreground plants such as Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’, ajuga, lysimachia.
TRILLIUM Trilliaceae
Several of the more than forty species in the genus Trillium are native to North America and are
rewarding and easy to grow. They share similar characteristics: they are herbaceous and much
valued for their appearance as an early spring flower, often under a canopy of deciduous shrubs.
The leaves are equally attractive, as seen in the descriptions in the chart. The only drawback to
these plants as far as I’m concerned is their very slow increase and low rate of seed production.
Seedlings are slow to develop; the first year they show only a single bladelike leaf. Provide tril-
liums with a woodland spot that doesn’t dry out in summer (when the plant is dormant), and you
can enjoy these plants for many years. Never cut the leaves, and even cutting the flowers off is
not recommended. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Latin tri (“three”); all parts occur in threes. Trilliums used to be in
the lily family, hence tri-lilium, or trillium.
Common Name: Wake robin.
Origin: North America, Asia.
Preferred Conditions: Cool, moisture-retentive, humus-rich, acidic to neutral soil. They don’t
like a lot of competition.
Planting: Plant in a quiet, safe location for slow success.
Management: Never cut trilliums. The buds that produce the leaves and flowers are formed on
the rhizomes in late summer, when the upper growth is dormant, so provide ample water all
summer to help this process. Mulch with homemade compost, leaf mold, or other organic
matter in winter. Dig up when clumps are congested and carefully split them; don’t break
the roots, and gently separate the individual rhizomes. Cut back dead foliage in the fall/
winter cleanup. Watch for slugs.
Propagation: Seed as soon as ripe (it’s a lengthy process, can take five to seven years to have
plants of flowering size); division in winter (will be slow to reestablish). Some good results
can be had if divided in growth and kept well watered in shade.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs. Rodents eat the rhizomes.
Companions: Smilacina, disporum, viola, erythronium, uvularia, primula, polygonatum, aris-
aema, hosta, jeffersonia, brunnera, dicentra, tiarella, pulmonaria; the woodland garden.
Notes: The rhizomes have a “scar” for each year they grow. Double flower forms are possible
but still uncommon.

Trillium 477
Trillium luteum.
USDA
Zone
catesbyi (syn. 1–1½ft × 6in 6–9 Pale to deep pink, Mid-green, Rosy wake robin,
stylosum) sometimes white, deeply veined, clump-forming, red-
nodding (E–M) elliptic-oval-ovate pink stems
cernuum 1–1½ft × 10in 5–9 Pink, sometimes Mid-green, diamond- Nodding trillium,
white, purple shaped, veined clump-forming,
stamens, nodding, eastern U.S. native
fragrant (E)
chloropetalum 1–1½ft × 1ft 6–9 Maroon-red, Dark green, mottled Red-green stems,
sometimes greenish gray-cream or maroon, western U.S. native
white or yellow, diamond-shaped
erect, fragrant (E)
erectum 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Brownish purple to Rich green, Purple trillium,
maroon-red, stamens broadly ovate to vigorous, oval
white, yellow, diamond-shaped reddish berries, RHS
or green, erect, Award
recurving, out-facing
(E)
e. f. luteum 1–1½ft × 1ft 4–9 Yellow, red tips, erect As above Slow to increase
(E)
grandiflorum 1–2ft × 1ft 4–9 Pure white, fading to Dark green, veined, White wake robin,
pink, yellow center, waxy, ovate to rounded eastern U.S. native,
nodding (E–M) RHS Award
luteum (syn. sessile 6–12in × 12in 5–8 Lemon-yellow, Mid-green, paler green Yellow trillium, RHS
var. luteum) scented, erect (E) marbling, elliptic to Award
ovate
442_502_TP.indd 477
478 Trollius
USDA
Zone
ovatum 12–18in × 5–9 White fading to Mid-green, diamond- Coast trillium, red-
8–10in pinkish or red, shaped to ovate and green stems, western
narrow petals, oval, prominent veins U.S. native
nodding, fragrant
(E–M)
rivale 5–6in × 6in 5–9 White or pale pink, Mid-green, ovate, Brook trillium, a
spotted rose-red, pointed small plant, spreads
nodding (E) slowly, RHS Award
sessile 10–12in × 10in 4–8 Purplish red, rarely Marbled maroon and Purple berries,
greenish yellow, green fading to shades eastern U.S. native
erect, no stem of silvery-green, elliptic
between flower and to rounded
foliage, fragrant (E)
vaseyi 12–18in × 10in 5–7 Red, nodding (M) Mid-green
viride 16–20in × 5–9 Yellow-green, Marbled and spotted Wood trillium,
10in sometimes maroon at greenish and gray- central U.S. native
bases, long stamens, green, lanceolate to
erect (E) round to elliptic
TROLLIUS Ranunculaceae
Trollius is a traditional cottage garden plant. Plants share both their flower color (creamy white
to orange) and their love of moisture with other members of the buttercup family. Globeflowers
are, however, much better behaved than their cousins. They slowly form clumps with deeply cut,
serrated, lobed leaves. They begin blooming in early spring. The flower petals, which are often
numerous, turn upward, forming the “globe.” They make a good cut flower. The expensive and
seductive T. ×cultorum ‘Alabaster’ has not lived up to my expectations. I will stick to the yellows
and oranges until another white emerges, then I’ll probably fall again. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From the Swiss-German word for globeflower, trollblume.

Common Name: Globeflower.
Preferred Conditions: Fertile, humus-rich, moist, cool, and moisture-retentive. Good at water-
sides or moist gardens. Does not like to dry out.
Management: Some cultivars are long-blooming if deadheaded after flowering; leave basal
leaves, water well, and fertilize. Clean up after growth dies back in the fall. Mulch with
organic material in winter; do not mulch or manure over the crown. Divide every five years
or so, when clumps thin out in the middle.
Propagation: Seed for species; division in fall or late winter.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, slugs and snails and puppy dog tails.
Companions: Ferns, Primula japonica, P. beesiana, P. bulleyana, P. ×bulleesiana, P. florindae,
P. poissonii, ligularia, hosta, astilbe, Iris sibirica, scilla, Carex elata ‘Aurea’, Astrantia major
‘Sunningdale Variegated’, Sanguisorba ‘Sunsplash’.

Trollius 479
Trollius yunnanensis.
Notes: The companions for this plant are often as just listed—“shade garden” plants or plants
that will do well in sun if well watered. Try globeflowers in the summer border, but don’t
expect them to bloom into August.
USDA
Zone
chinensis (syn. 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–8 Bright yellow-orange Dark green, 5-lobed, Chinese globeflower,
ledebourii) (M) lanceolate leaflets, later blooming
divided into toothed
segments
c. ‘Golden Queen’ 2–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Bright golden orange As above Comes true from
with spiky central seed, RHS Award
petals (E–M)
×cultorum 2½ft × 1ft 3–8 Ivory-cream (E–M) Dark green, 5-lobed, Weak plant
‘Alabaster’ deeply divided
lanceolate leaflets,
toothed, glossy
×c. ‘Cheddar’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 3–9 Creamy-yellow As above
(E–M)
×c. ‘Earliest of All’ 1½–3ft × 3–9 Golden yellow (E–M) Dark green, 5-lobed, Earliest of all!
1½ft lanceolate leaflets,
divided into toothed
segments
×c. ‘Etna’ 2–2½ft × 4–8 Deep orange (E–M) As above
1½ft
×c. ‘Lemon Queen’ 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–8 Pale lemon-yellow As above Vigorous
(E–M)

480 Tropaeolum
USDA
Zone
×c. ‘Orange 2–3ft × 1½ft 4–8 Deep golden orange As above RHS Award
Princess’ (E–M)
×c. ‘Prichard’s 3ft × 2ft 4–8 Golden orange to As above
Giant’ yellow (E–M)
×c. ‘Superbus’ 2–3ft × 4–8 Sulphur-yellow As above RHS Award
1½–2ft (E–M)
×c. ‘T. Smith’ 2½ft × 18in 3–8 Lemon-yellow (E–M) As above
europaeus 1–2½ft × 4–8 Soft lemon-yellow or Dark green, 5-lobed, Common European
1½ft orange (E–M) with wedge-shaped globeflower
deeply divided, toothed
lobes
pumilus 8–12in × 8in 5–8 Golden orange, Dark green speckled A sweet little plant,
orange stamens, with white spots, 5- short-lived
sometimes green- lobed, oblong-lanceolate
tinged, small, open, 5 leaflets, glossy, toothed,
petals (M) tiny, crinkled
yunnanensis 2–2½ft × 1ft 5–8 Rich golden yellow, Light green, 3- to 5- Chinese globeflower
smaller than lobed, ovate to obovate
T. chinensis and leaflets, glossy, toothed
T. europaeus (E–M)
TROPAEOLUM Tropaeolaceae
There have been problems in the classification of this genus, made difficult by the number of
species involved. Most come from South America, and not all are hardy. We are left with a few
very attractive species, which grow well here. The ones we deal with are climbing or trailing
perennials. They are valuable for their attractive gray to gray-green foliage and varied flower
colors (many share the yellow, orange, and red colors of the common annual nasturtium). None
of the three or their forms are good candidates for a container; their leaves tend to turn yellow.
Tropaeolum speciosum is choice and looks wonderful against a dark green background. The
flower is beautifully formed, showing a star-shaped pattern of yellow stamens in the neatly lined
center of bright red petals, to be followed by blue fruit. This plant is not easy to raise from seed
(low germination) or to find in the plant sales, so buy it when you see it. Young plants flower later
than older ones, thus extending the flowering season. The beautiful, fiery, half-hardy T. tuberosum
grows from tubers and flowers late in the fall. Its summer-flowering selection is T. tuberosum var.
lineamaculatum ‘Ken Aslet’. Both will climb on their own. I would imagine one could not have too
many of these plants, as they are slow to increase. The more the merrier. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: From the Greek tropaion (“trophy”).

Common Name: Perennial nasturtium.
Origin: Mexico to Chile.
Preferred Conditions: Any fertile, well-drained, moist soil. Keep moist, especially during the
growing season.
Light: Sun. Prefers feet in the shade.
Planting: Plant T. polyphyllum deeper (ten to twelve inches) in very loose, gritty soil or almost
pure sand.

Tropaeolum 481
Tropaeolum tuberosum
var. lineamaculatum
‘Ken Aslet’.
Management: All except T. polyphyllum will need support. Cut back after foliage dies down in
the fall. Mulch in the winter, or store the tubers.
Propagation: Seed (may take up to four months to germinate); division in spring for
T. speciosum (careful, it’s very brittle); root cuttings; tubers.
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, aphids.
Companions: Tropaeolum speciosum likes to climb up through bushes or hedges; it does need
to be encouraged to first get up into the base, but then it will spread of its own accord. Plant
T. polyphyllum where it can hang down from a wall, or in a rock garden, or grow it as a
groundcover in a hot spot.
Notes: Tropaeolum tuberosum is not always hardy in the Pacific Northwest, but the tubers can
be stored inside over the winter.
USDA
Zone
polyphyllum 18ft × 2–3ft 8–10 Rich yellow, long Bluish green, deeply Trailing, long stems,
spurs (M) lobed or divided needs good drainage,
difficult to grow
speciosum 10–12ft × 2ft 8–10 Scarlet-red, long Rich green, palmate Scotch flame flower,
spurs, red calyx climber, blue fruit
(M–L) held in red calyces,
RHS Award
tuberosum 6–9ft × 2ft 8–10 Orange-yellow petals, Grayish green, peltate Climber, edible
red-orange spurs and tubers
sepals (L)
t. var. 6–9ft × 2ft 8–10 Orange-yellow petals, As above Climber, edible
lineamaculatum red-orange spurs and tubers, blooms
‘Ken Aslet’ sepals (M–L) earlier than species,
RHS Award

482 Uvularia
UVULARIA Convallariaceae
Uvularia is a small genus. All three species have pendent,

bell-shaped flowers in shades of yellow that hang from
the upper leaf axils in spring. Thus suspended, they move
freely with the breezes, hence the common name of the
largest one, great merrybells. The leaves are ovate-lanceo-
late or oblong, and perfoliate in U. grandiflora and U. perfo-
liata. These East Coast woodland natives can form large
clumps and adapt to most shady, humus-rich situations.
~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: From uvula, the fleshy lobe at the back of

your soft palate.
Common Name: Bellwort, merrybells.
Preferred Conditions: Well-drained, cool, humus-rich,
moist, fertile soil. Tolerates average soil as long as it
doesn’t dry out.
Light: Part shade to shade, especially in summer (spring
sun, summer shade). Morning sun is best.
Management: Divide seldom, only as needed for propaga-
tion; this plant doesn’t like to be disturbed. Cut back
during fall cleanup or when fully dormant. Top-dress
in winter with a leaf mold or other organic mate-
rial. Watch for slugs in very early spring, bait, baiting,
baited!
Propagation: Seed (will sprout the following spring); divi-
sion of rhizomes in autumn (rhizomes are brittle).
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, snails, root weevils.
Uvularia grandiflora.
Companions: Trillium, polygonatum, asarum, dicentra,
epimedium, hosta, tiarella, brunnera, helleborus,
erythronium, pulmonaria, corydalis, Lamium galeob-
dolon ‘Hermann’s Pride’; the shade border.
USDA
Zone
grandiflora 1–2½ft × 1ft 3–9 Lemon-yellow (E) Mid-green, perfoliate, Great merrybells,
narrow on arching wiry, erect, RHS
olive-green stems Award
perfoliata 1–2ft × 1ft 3–9 Paler yellow, smaller Mid-green, perfoliate Strawbells
(E)
sessilifolia 1–1½ft × 1ft 3–9 Golden yellow, Pale green to gray Wild oats, spreading
smaller (E–M) with white edge, not
perfoliate

Valeriana 483
Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’.
VALERIANA Valerianaceae
In Gardening with Native Plants of the Pacific Northwest, Arthur Kruckeberg said one of the nicer
things about valerian: “In fruit each flower is transformed into a tiny plumed parachute perched
for the flight of valerians yet to come.” All the same, the only two valerians we allow in our gardens
are V. officinalis and V. phu ‘Aurea’, and neither has much to recommend it as a flowering plant.
Valeriana officinalis, long used as a medicinal, has tall sparsely clad stems topped by corymbs of
small white to pale pink flowers in June; a quiet plant, it could be used as a filler among more
vibrant companions. Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’ is grown primarily for the color of its spring foliage.
It is low-growing and bright yellow-green, a great foil to other spring-flowering plants. By the
time this valerian blooms on tall stems, its leaves have turned green; flowers are like those of
V. officinalis, only white, and with the same mousey character. Graham Stuart Thomas said
V. officinalis is known as cat’s valerian because cats love it so much (cats, mice, hmm), so grow it
for your whiskered friends. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Latin valere (“healthy,” “strong”), referring to medicinal properties;
or for Valerius, a third-century Roman emperor.
Common Name: Valerian, cat’s valerian.
Origin: Europe, Asia Minor.
Preferred Conditions: Any good garden soil that is moist and well-drained.
Light: Sun to part shade. Valeriana phu ‘Aurea’ keeps its gold longer in full sun.
Management: Staking may be needed. You can remove the flowers of V. phu ‘Aurea’ before they
bloom. Clean up in fall, leave winter foliage.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, snails, slugs.

484 Vancouveria
Companions: Milium effusum ‘Aureum’, hosta. For V. phu ‘Aurea’, try pulmonaria (especially
P. angustifolia), Veronica peduncularis ‘Georgia Blue’, and blue-flowering spring bulbs such
as Chionodoxa sardensis or muscari.
Notes: Valeriana officinalis was grown for the drug valerian, still a very popular sedative.
USDA
Zone
officinalis 3–5ft × 1ft 4–9 White to pale pink, Green, toothed, deeply Cat’s valerian, cats
fragrant (M) lobed, aromatic like this plant
phu ‘Aurea’ 1–1½ft × 1½ft 5–9 Small, white (M) Bright gold aging to Outstanding spring
pale green, somewhat gold foliage
aromatic
VANCOUVERIA Berberidaceae
Vancouverias are related to epimedium and have the same leaf arrangement, but smaller. The
leaves are tender at the beginning of the season, gaining substance over the summer. The “inside
out” flowers are white and recurved, arranged along vertical stems in a panicle.
Vancouveria hexandra is the fastest and widest reaching of the three species. It is deciduous
and will make a loose groundcover in dry shade. In our experience, while it is a wide-spreader, it
is not much of a threat to other plants. It just seems to move around them.
Vancouveria planipetala, in contrast, forms strong, dense evergreen clumps, preventing
anything from penetrating. We have grown it right next to English ivy, and it held its own. There
are two forms, one has very shiny evergreen leaves and the other has smaller matte-grayish leaves
and is somewhat less evergreen. Another shade plant, this
one deserves good soil. It’s slow-growing in the first couple
of years, becoming a moderate grower in time.
Vancouveria chrysantha, which occurs in California
and Oregon, is the most tender and slowest spreader.
Its evergreen leaves are much more finely divided than
V. planipetala (closer to V. hexandra), and it has yellow
flowers. Give it good soil and a small area.
All three plants are good groundcovers for different
spaces and should be grown more widely. ~ Ann Bucher
Scientific Name: After Captain George Vancouver.

Common Name: Inside-out flower.
Origin: Western United States.
Preferred Conditions: Moderately fertile, moist, humus-
rich, well-drained soil. A sheltered site is best.
Light: Part shade to shade. Tolerates sun with enough
moisture.
Management: This is a low-maintenance plant. Cut off old
leaves in January or February before new leaves begin
to emerge. Top-dress in winter with leaf mold or other
organic material.
Vancouveria hexandra. Propagation: Seed; division in fall or late winter to March.

Verbascum 485
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, root weevils.

Companions: Good under hydrangeas and magnolias.
Notes: This, along with Euphorbia robbiae, Iris foetidissima, epimedium, and Geranium macror-
rhizum, is a great dry-shade groundcover. The foliage is very attractive in bouquets, but it
will weaken the plant to cut it. Wait to cut until the clumps are well established. The avail-
ability of this plant is a bit tight due to its being difficult to divide (long rhizomes) and slow
to increase in a pot.
USDA
Zone
chrysantha 8–12in × 2ft+ 5–8 Small, yellow (E–M) Dark green, ternate Evergreen, modest
with diamond-shaped spreader
leaflets, glossy, leathery
hexandra 1–1½ft × 3ft+ 5–8 Tiny, white, pendent Light green, dainty, Vancouver fern,
(E–M) lobed, ovate, not deciduous, vigorous
leathery
planipetala 8–12in × 2ft+ 5–8 White with lavender Dark green, ovate- Evergreen,
tinge, small but cordate, ternate, divided, rhizomatous, slower
abundant (E–M) wavy margins, leathery spreader
VERBASCUM Scrophulariaceae
If you are looking for big, bold plants to make a structural

statement or give the back of the border interest, consider
the verbascums. The biennials like V. bombyciferum will
grow well in poor soil and with little water, but their true
nature, as eight-foot monsters, will show in the garden with
good soil and watering; they will seed about but are easy
to control, and their big felty leaves add winter interest.
All need space and a nearly full-sun location to do their
best, especially the striking newer colored forms. If you
grow them in a bit of shade, the flower stems will stretch,
bend, and curve into the wrong shape, and flop and lay on
top of other plants. The large basal leaves can be a problem
because they can smother their neighbors, so try to plant
them accordingly. The newer cultivars like V. ‘Helen
Johnson’ and V. ‘Jackie’ are good neighbors and easier to
use in a mixed border: they are smaller, and their lower
basal leaves do not take up as much room. ~ Bob Lilly
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name, possibly a

corruption of barbascum (“beard”).
Common Name: Mullein.
Origin: West and Central Asia, Europe, North Africa.
Preferred Conditions: Lean, alkaline soil with sharp
drainage. Moderate to low water needs. Tolerates
drought once established. Verbascum chaixii ‘Album’.

486 Verbascum
Verbascum thapsus paired with a grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens), Eryngium alpinum, Tanacetum parthenium
‘Aureum’, euphorbia, and the blues and white of Campanula persicifolia.
Light: Sun.
Management: Remove spent flower stems for another small flush of flowers in late summer;
these will be on shorter stems. Watch for slugs in early spring and cutworms in spring and
early summer. In exposed situations they may need staking.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring; root cuttings in winter (hybridizes freely, so must use
cuttings to reproduce cultivars).
Pests and Diseases: Slugs, powdery mildew, cutworms (the same one that attacks digitalis and
other gray-foliage plants).
Companions: Grasses, Nepeta ‘Six Hills Giant’, Crambe cordifolia, hemerocallis, kniphofia,
dahlia, helianthus, rudbeckia; the taller ones look good as specimen plants.
Notes: These are unfortunately short-lived plants for us. The crown has a hard time making it
through our wet, cold winters; give them good drainage, or a slight slope. This is especially
critical with the newer types, which are vegetatively propagated (and seem to need more
light as well). There has been some success in propagating cultivars from tissue culture. In
the chart, the spread is the width covered by the basal leaves.

Verbascum 487
USDA
Zone
bombyciferum 6–8ft × 2–3ft 3–9 Clear yellow, single Silvery-white, woolly, Biennial but so
spikes, sometimes large basal crown striking it’s worth
candelabra-shaped growing
(M–L)
b. ‘Polarsommer’ 5–6ft × 2–3ft 3–9 Sulphur-yellow (M) Silvery-white, felty, Biennial
(syn. ‘Arctic large basal crown
Summer’)
‘Caribbean Crush’ 2–4ft × 2ft 5–8 Mango to burnt- Felted gray
orange (E–M)
chaixii 3–6ft × 2½ft 5–9 Pale yellow, purple Mid-green to gray, Nettle-leaved
stamens, purple- scalloped margins mullein, semi-
flushed center, purple evergreen,
buds (E–M) long-blooming
c. ‘Album’ 3–5ft × 2½ft 5–9 White, purple Gray-green basal Self-sows, RHS
stamens, purple- rosettes Award
flushed center, purple
buds (M)
Cotswold Group 3–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Apricot-buff, darker Mid-green, wrinkled Short-lived, semi-
‘Cotswold Queen’ yellow with purple evergreen, RHS
eye, spikes (M–L) Award
Cotswold Group 2–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Yellow (M) Silvery-gray Semi-evergreen,
‘Gainsborough’ RHS Award
Cotswold Group 2–4ft × 2ft 5–9 Pale pink to almost Dark purplish green, As above, RHS
‘Pink Domino’ red, purple stamens ovate-lanceolate Award
(M–L) rosettes, wrinkled
Cotswold Group 3ft × 2ft 5–9 White (M–L) Gray-green, wrinkled Semi-evergreen
‘White Domino’
‘Helen Johnson’ 1½–3ft × 2ft 6–9 Buff-colored, unusual Gray, woolly Short-lived
(M–L)
‘Jackie’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 6–9 Apricot, purple-eyed Grayish green, woolly Long-blooming,
(E–M) short-lived
nigrum 2½–3ft × 2ft 3–8 Golden yellow or Dark green, downy Dark mullein;
white, purple or red propagate by seed or
center, narrow spikes root cuttings
(M–L)
phoeniceum 2½–3ft × 4–8 White, pink or violet Dark green, slightly Biennial or short-
1½ft to dark purple, violet scalloped, hairy reverse lived, self-sows,
filament hairs (E–M) evergreen
‘Raspberry Ripple’ 2½–3ft × 2ft 5–8 Purple buds open to Green, wrinkled Short-lived
light pink and white,
dark center (M)
‘Southern Charm’ 2–3ft × 2ft 6–9 Pastel shades of As above As above
rose, cream, apricot,
lavender, and pink,
red eye (M)
‘Summer Sorbet’ 1½–2ft × 2ft 6–9 Dark purple buds As above As above
open to lavender-
purple (E–M)
thapsus 3½–5½ft × 3–9 Strong yellow (M) Gray-green, woolly, Common mullein,
2–3ft large basal crown biennial
wiedemannianum 3ft × 2ft 6–9 Indigo-blue to violet, Dark green, silvery Biennial
purple stamens (M) cobweblike hair

488 Verbena
Verbena bonariensis.
VERBENA Verbenaceae
Verbena is one of the basic garden plants that can bloom all summer with very little fuss. Some
are considered tender perennials; others are short-lived and often treated as annuals and encour-
aged to self-sow. Verbenas are variable in their growth habit. Some spread, providing a mass of
color that makes them a good choice for groundcovers, edging, and garden beds; others stand tall
on wiry stems, waving to and fro in the wind; and then there are those that look attractive trailing
out of the window box or container.
Small, funnel-shaped flowers are borne in clusters and range in color from snowy white to
apricot, pink, red, blue, lavender, and purple. They all make a color statement, whether spreading
on the ground or up high on wiry stems. The dark green leaves range from ovate to oblong to
lanceolate; all are toothed and may be rough and hairy.
Is V. bonariensis an annual, biennial, or perennial? We consider it a self-sowing biennial, best
as a one-year-old and allowed to seed about. Older plants are often too woody and not as graceful
as the youngsters. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name of the common European vervain.
Common Name: Vervain.
Origin: South America.
Preferred Conditions: Average to moderately fertile, well-drained, moist soil. Most (especially
V. rigida) don’t like to dry out. Verbena bonariensis and V. hastata will tolerate dry conditions.
Light: Sun.
Management: Cut back all but V. bonariensis, especially the marginally hardy ones, after basal
spring growth begins to keep them more compact and reduce overwintered problems.
Deadhead to prolong bloom on all forms. You could cut V. bonariensis back (after the flowers
are spent), but it won’t prevent self-sowing as some seed is ripe while the clusters are still in
bloom (V. bonariensis can also be a short-lived plant, so the seedlings may be wanted). Clean
up and cut down to basal growth in late fall.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring; basal cuttings.
Pests and Diseases: Spider mites, whiteflies, snails, slugs, powdery mildew. The spider mite
problem in the trailing forms seems to increase in the second year.
442_502_TP.indd 488
0
Verbena 489
Verbena bonariensis, the perfect scrim plant, here with a grass (Cortaderia selloana ‘Sunstripe’), Hemerocallis
‘Autumn Minaret’, and Artemisia ‘Huntington’.
Companions: Miscanthus and other grasses, Stachys byzantina, coreopsis, helianthus, scabiosa,
knautia.
Notes: There is a great deal of verbena breeding (V. canadensis, V. peruviana, V. tenuisecta)
going on for summer color, but the resulting cultivars may not be hardy—time will tell.
USDA
Zone
bonariensis (syn. 3–6ft × 1½ft 7–10 Tiny, purple-lavender Dark green, oblong- Brazilian vervain,
patagonica) (variable), fragrant lanceolate, clasping, self-sows, may
(M–L) mostly basal, wrinkled, flop in rich soil,
rough, branching, wiry clump-forming
stems
canadensis 6–8in × 6–10 Purplish pink to Mid-dark green, ovate- Rose vervain
1½ft+ rose-pink (variable), oblong-ovate, pinnately
clusters (M–L) arranged, toothed, rough

490 Vernonia
USDA
Zone
hastata 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–8 Tiny violet-blue Dark green, lanceolate, Wild hyssop, clump-
to pinkish purple, pointed, toothed, deep forming, erect
sometimes white, purple stems
arranged in short
candelabras (M–L)
h. ‘Alba’ 3–4ft × 1½ft 4–8 White (M–L) As above As above
‘Homestead 6–18in × 18in 6–10 Rich dark purple- Dark green, ovate, Mildew resistant,
Purple’ violet (E–L) scalloped trailing
peruviana 1–2in × 30in 6–10 Bright red (M) Dark green, deeply Good in hanging
divided baskets, short-lived
rigida (syn. venosa) 1–2ft × 2ft+ 7–10 Bright violet-purple, Dark green, oblong, Upright (rigid),
fragrant (M–L) toothed, rough rhizomatous, spreads
slowly, RHS Award
r. ‘Polaris’ 1–2ft × 2ft+ 7–10 Silver-blue, almost As above Upright,
white (M–L) rhizomatous,
spreads slowly
‘Silver Anne’ 1ft × 1½ft 8–11 Bright pink aging to Light green, Upright, tender,
silver-white, fragrant ovate-oblong spreading, RHS
(M–L) Award
VERNONIA Asteraceae
Vernonia is a lovely perennial, like a giant aster, with a rich intense color for late summer effect
way back in the border. These North American natives can be found growing wild in moist prairie
Vernonia noveboracensis.

Veronica 491
or marsh conditions, although they are somewhat drought tolerant for us once established. The
flowers of the three species are rich purple, violet-blue, or white, and age to rust-colored seed-
heads. Vernonia is a good source of nectar for bees and butterflies. The leaves are narrow and
dark green on tough, stiff stems (hence the common name). ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After English botanist William Vernon.

Common Name: Ironweed.
Preferred Conditions: Rich to moderately fertile and moist soil.
Light: Sun to part shade. Give them sun to make them strong.
Management: Top-dress with organic material. Don’t cut back until winter, when foliage has
died back. May need staking, particularly in rich soil.
Propagation: Seed; cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, snails, slugs (especially on the crown in spring).
Companions: Miscanthus and other tall grasses, chelone, aconitum, eupatorium, callicarpa,
aster, hardy fuchsias, Anemone μhybrida; good with dark purple hydrangeas in foreground.
USDA
Zone
crinita 5–6ft × 2ft 5–9 Rich crimson-purple, Dark green, narrow, Clump-forming
in clusters (M–L) linear to linear-
lanceolate, pointed
fasciculata 3–6ft × 2ft 5–9 Violet-blue, in flat As above Branching stems
umbels (M–L)
noveboracensis 6–8ft × 2ft 5–9 Deep violet-purple or Dark green, lanceolate, New York ironweed,
white, in fluffy loose toothed branching stems
clusters (M–L)
VERONICA Scrophulariaceae
Veronica is a large genus with a varied group of species: tall ones that supply color for the back
of the border; low, bushy ones for the front of the border; and prostrate ones for groundcovers.
Speedwells, as they’re commonly called, are a good source of blue for the garden. The good
colors don’t end at blue, though, and veronicas are valued for their rich violets, purples, pinks,
whites, and almost reds. The small flowers are mostly arranged on long spikes and bloom from
the bottom up; some have conspicuous stamens. They are long-blooming, and the taller vari-
eties are excellent cut flowers. The foliage also varies—broadly lanceolate or oblong to rounded,
entire or toothed, green to gray—for a wide variety of effects. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: Honors St. Veronica, patron saint of laundresses.

Common Name: Speedwell.
Origin: Europe, Asia, Caucasus, Siberia, Ukraine.
Preferred Conditions: Most any with well-drained, moist soil. Protect from winter wet, espe-
cially species with felted leaves. The gray-leaved forms need good air circulation and sharp
drainage. The tall forms tend to be short-lived in soil that is too lightweight or sandy (try a
heavier soil and a bit of lime). Soil that is too rich may produce leggy plants.
Light: Sun to part shade. Sun only for the gray-leaved forms.

492 Veronica
Veronica peduncularis
‘Georgia Blue’.
Management: Deadhead spent flower spikes to the first set of leaves; this will make the plant
look tidier, and some may rebloom. Taller veronicas in exposed conditions may need staking.
Cut to the ground in winter cleanup or when they look tired. Some are short-lived. Divide
every three to four years.
Propagation: Seed; cuttings; division in spring.
Pests and Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, leaf spot, root rot, slugs in early spring.
Companions: Miscanthus, pennisetum, molinia, hosta, primula, paeonia, carex, narcissus,
Lathyrus vernus, Phlox paniculata, aconitum, aster, geranium, stachys, campanula.
Notes: In the Pacific Northwest, all the tall forms of veronica are short-lived and best as
youngsters.
USDA
Zone
allioni 3–8in × 10in 4–9 Deep violet-blue (M) Dark green Alpine speedwell,
evergreen
austriaca subsp. 1½ft × 1ft 5–8 Bright blue, dark Gray-green, toothed, Mat-forming,
teucrium veins (E–M) ovate to oblong, hairy semi-evergreen
a. subsp. teucrium 1ft × 1ft 3–8 Deep vivid blue, Bright green, small, Dense, mounding
‘Crater Lake Blue’ white eye (E–M) shiny habit, semi-
evergreen, RHS
Award
a. subsp. teucrium 1ft × 1ft 4–9 Deep gentian-blue Dark green, small, shiny Compact, semi-
‘Royal Blue’ (M) evergreen, RHS
Award
chamaedrys 12–20in × 3–7 Blue, white eye, tiny Bright green, toothed, Germander
12in+ (M–L) ovate to lanceolate speedwell, spreading

Veronica 493
USDA
Zone
c. ‘Miffy Brute’ 3–10in × 4–9 Dark blue (E–M) Creamy-white and Spreading, pinch
12in+ green, reverts easily now and then to keep
neat
gentianoides 1½–2ft × 4–8 Pale blue with darker Broad dark green Gentian speedwell,
1½ft veination (E–M) rosettes, shiny, evergreen, short-
lanceolate to oblong, lived in the Pacific
ground-hugging Northwest, RHS
Award
g. ‘Pallida’ 1½ft × 1ft 4–9 Pale sky-blue (E–M) Dark green, glossy Mat-forming, good
cut, short-lived
g. ‘Variegata’ 1½ft × 1ft 4–8 Pale blue (E–M) Dark green splashed Mat-forming, short-
with creamy-white, lived in Pacific
glossy Northwest
‘Giles Van Hees’ 6–8in × 8in 4–9 Bright pink (M–L) Green, small, lanceolate Long-blooming
‘Goodness Grows” 1–1½ft × 1½ft 4–9 Rich violet-blue Deep green Prostrate, semi-
(E–M) evergreen,
long-blooming
longifolia 2–4ft × 1ft 4–8 Lavender-blue (M) Mid-green, toothed, Self-sows
pointed, narrowly
lanceolate to
linear-lanceolate
l. ‘Blauriesin’ 2½–4ft × 1ft 3–9 Deep blue (M) As above Good cut, vigorous
peduncularis 4–6in × 2ft+ 6–8 Deep blue, white eye Mid-green, ovate to Mat-forming,
(E–M) lanceolate, toothed, spreads, evergreen,
glossy, purple-tinged long-blooming
p. ‘Georgia Blue’ 4–6in × 2ft+ 6–9 Cobalt-blue, white Dark green, purplish Mat-forming,
(syn. ‘Oxford Blue’) eye, rounded (E–M) red tinge in new growth spreads, evergreen,
and in fall, glossy, small, vigorous
rounded
prostrata (syn. 4–8in × 10in 4–8 Pale to deep blue Mid-green, small, Ground-hugger, RHS
austriaca var. dubia, (E–M) toothed, linear-oblong Award
rupestris) to ovate
p. ‘Heavenly Blue’ 4–6in × 10in 4–9 Bright blue (E–M) Deep green, tiny, glossy Prostrate, vigorous
p. ‘Mrs. Holt’ 3–6in × 10in 5–8 Light pink, small Light green, tiny, oval Mat-forming
(E–M)
p. ‘Trehane’ 3–8in × 10in 4–9 Deep sky-blue (E–M) Bright golden yellow, Tolerates dry
may scorch in sun conditions,
mat-forming
repens (syn. 2–3in × 12in+ 2–9 Pale blue to white Dark green, small, shiny, Tolerates dry shade,
reptans) (E–M) round to ovate prostrate, creeping
r. ‘Sunshine’ 1–2in × 12in+ 7–9 Pale bluish lavender, Bright golden yellow, Sun or shade, but
small (E–M) small, rounded don’t let it dry out
‘Shirley Blue’ 8–10in × 12in 4–9 Vivid blue (E–M) Grayish green, deeply Creeping, RHS
toothed, oblong to Award
lanceolate
spicata 1–2ft × 1½ft 4–8 Deep blue, long Grayish green, pointed, Spike speedwell,
purple stamens toothed, lanceolate to long-blooming, good
(M–L) ovate, hairy cut, most forms
upright

494 Veronicastrum
USDA
Zone
s. ‘Blaufuchs’ (syn. 2ft × 1½ft 4–8 Deep blue, large Green Clump-forming,
‘Blue Fox’) spikes (M) upright
s. ‘Heidekind’ 12in × 12in 4–8 Rose-pink (M) Gray-green, pointed, Long-blooming
toothed, lanceolate to
ovate
s. ‘Icicle’ (syn. 1½–2ft × 3–8 White (M–L) Light green Bushy growth habit,
‘White Icicle’) 1½ft short-lived, long-
blooming, upright
s. subsp. incana 10–12in × 4–8 Blue (M) Silvery-gray, pointed, Woolly speedwell,
1½ft hairy flops, RHS Award
s. ‘Minuet’ 15–18in × 3–8 Rose-pink, dense Silvery-gray Clump-forming,
1½ft spikes (E–M) upright
s. ‘Nana 4–6in × 1½ft 4–8 Bright blue (M) Rich green Clump-forming,
Blauteppich’ (syn. compact
‘Blue Carpet’)
s. ‘Noah Williams’ 20–24in × 4–8 White (M–L) Creamy-white margins Upright
1½ft on glossy dark-green,
toothed
s. ‘Rotfuchs’ (syn. 10–15in × 3–9 Deep rosy-pink to Green, glossy, toothed Clump-forming,
‘Red Fox) 1½ft rosy-red (M) upright
‘Sunny Border Blue’ 1½–2ft × 3–8 Dark violet-blue Green, glossy, crinkled, Long-blooming, 1993
1½ft (M–L) lanceolate PPA Award
‘Waterperry Blue’ 4–6in × 10in 4–8 Light lavender-blue, Shiny green, turns Evergreen, spreading
white eye (M) bronzy-purple in winter
VERONICASTRUM Scrophulariaceae
The more I see veronicastrum, the more I appreciate it, flowering as it does here in midsummer,
for six weeks or more. The inflorescences on the new cultivars are striking and more elongated
than the older varieties and offer more color variations, with forms in spikes in groups at the tops
of the tall stems. The stems are clothed in whorls of lanceolate leaves. A good background plant,
best in groups of three or more. Veronicastrum stands on its own and needs little or no staking.
It adds verticality, is easy of culture, and makes a good cut flower. ~ Carrie Becker
Scientific Name: From the Latin astrum (“like”), hence resembling veronica.
Common Name: Bowman’s root, Culver’s physic.
Origin: North America, Asia, Siberia.
Preferred Conditions: Any moderate soil that is humus-rich, well-drained, and moisture-
retentive.
Management: Needs summer water. Rarely needs staking. Cut to the ground in winter cleanup.
Propagation: Seed; division in spring; cuttings.
Companions: Grasses, Aster ×frikartii, monarda, echinacea, Phlox paniculata, apricot-colored
roses, polemonium.

Veronicastrum 495
Veronicastrum
virginicum.
USDA
Zone
sibiricum 4–5ft × 1½ft 3–9 Lavender-blue Olive-green, lanceolate Erect
(M–L)
virginicum 4–6ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pale blue, pink Dark green, lanceolate, Erect, self-sows
or white, tubular, toothed
conspicuous stamens
(M–L)
v. ‘Alboroseum’ 4–5ft × 1½ft 3–9 White to pink, As above
delicate (M–L)
v. ‘Album’ 4–6ft × 1½ft 3–9 White (M–L) Dark grayish green
v. ‘Apollo’ 3–5ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pale lilac-pink (M) Dark green Strong stems
v. ‘Fascination’ 4–6ft × 1½ft 3–9 Two-toned, Dark reddish green Erect
pink-mauve and
periwinkle-blue (M)
v. f. roseum 4–6ft × 1½ft 3–9 Pale lavender-pink Dark green Sturdy stems
(M–L)
v. f. roseum ‘Pink 3–4ft × 1½ft 3–9 Rose-pink (M–L) As above
Glow’
v. ‘Spring Dew’ 3½ft × 1½ft 3–9 White (M) As above

496 Viola
Viola ‘Desdemona’.
VIOLA Violaceae
There is nothing more pleasing than a well-established carpet of violets growing and flowering
in the wild or in the corners of neglected gardens. These plants seem to do better when left on
their own, providing the soil does not dry out, which will reduce flower production. The scent
is variable and haphazard; some of the many V. odorata cultivars have no fragrance at all! And
many more have been lost to cultivation over the years. If you must have fragrance, grow the
tender Parma violets or search out the true V. odorata, a dark purple flower with a strong violet
fragrance; V. odorata is most commonly found in older gardens, even in the lawn. Yes, violets can
be very invasive by seed. Viola labradorica and V. adunca are most tenacious and hard to pull out,
with their deep roots and smothering foliage; pretty though they are, they should not be intro-
duced to planting beds, but under shrubs they are perfect and will survive even a dry summer.
Try the invasive groundcovering V. odorata in poor soil and full sun in the orchard, mow as
needed, and think of your grandmother. ~ Susan Buckles
Scientific Name: The classical Latin name for many sweet-scented flowers.
Common Name: Pansy, violet, horned violet.
Origin: North America, Africa, Europe, Asia, Caucasus.
Preferred Conditions: Best in cooler climates; they flourish in damp on a clay soil but are also
very adaptable in most fertile, humus-rich, well-drained soil. Shield from the hottest time of
the day.
Light: Part shade (morning sun for best flower production). Tolerates full sun if well watered.
Management: Pinch back in summer after the first bloom to encourage a second bloom and
keep compact (especially the vigorous ones). The invasive groundcover types can be mowed
(this treatment produces very short stems!) and will benefit from frequent division. Top-
dress in winter with organic material but not over the crown. Many are short-lived, and
cuttings should be taken. Early disappearance is often due to winter wet and small slugs.
Bait early for slugs; they eat the flowers. Clean up as necessary.

Viola 497
Propagation: Seed (needs darkness to germinate); cuttings; division in spring, before, after, or
during bloom (cornuta, glabella, odorata, cucullata).
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, powdery mildew, spider mites, root weevils. Aphids can
severely set back flower production.
Companions: Ajuga, Lysimachia nummularia, primula, the smaller spring bulbs, omphalodes,
dicentra, Ranunculus ficaria, aquilegia, Milium effusum ‘Aureum’, pulmonaria, uvularia.
Notes: In the Northwest many violas are treated as an annual or short-lived perennial. Violets
have a long history of commercial use (perfume, cut flowers, candied confectioneries). Work
is being done on compiling an International Cultivar Registration.
USDA
Zone
adunca 3–4in × 6in 4–8 Violet to lavender- Green, roundish to Western dog
blue, white center, ovate, toothed violet, spreads
fragrant (E–M) aggressively by seed,
semi-evergreen
‘Columbine’ (viola) 6in × 8in 4–8 White, streaked Rich green, ovate Low, compact,
violet-blue, slender long stems,
horned spur, fragrant semi-evergreen
(E–M)
cornuta 9–12in × 12in+ 6–9 Rich deep violet, Rich green, small, Horned violet,
mauve, or white, ovate, toothed evergreen, short-
larger, fragrant lived, good weaver,
(E–M) rhizomatous, RHS
Award
c. ‘Barford Blue’ 8–10in × 12in 6–9 Light blue (E–M) As above Reblooms if cut back,
evergreen
c. ‘Black Magic’ 8–10in × 12in 6–9 Almost black, velvety, As above Long-blooming,
bright yellow eye, vigorous but slower
fragrant (E–L) spreader, evergreen
cucullata 10in × 10in+ 4–8 Violet-blue, lower Dark green, toothed, Marsh blue violet,
petals etched in cordate to ovate herbaceous, eastern
purple, darker center, U.S. native, RHS
fragrant (E–M) Award
‘Dancing Geisha’ 6–8in × 8in 4–8 Blue, sometimes Dark green, deeply cut, Grown for the foliage,
(violet) white, fragrant streaked and marbled self-sows, clumping,
(E–M) with pewter and white semi-evergreen
‘Desdemona’ 6in × 8in 5–8 Pale lavender-blue, Green Semi-evergreen
(viola) white eye, fragrant
(E–M)
dissecta 4in × 6in 5–8 Rose to pale purplish Dark green, toothed, Grown for the foliage
or white, fragrant (E) dissected as much as for the
flower, herbaceous
‘Etain’ (viola) 6–8in × 8in 4–8 Pale lemon-yellow, Bright green, toothed, Clump-forming,
violet margins, ovate evergreen, long-lived,
short spurs, fragrant vigorous
(E–M)
glabella 6in × 6in 5–8 Deep yellow, purple Bright green, ovate or Stream violet,
veins, short spurs (E) to rounded, cordate herbaceous, vigorous,
bases spreads, easy to
control, U.S. native

498 Viola
USDA
Zone
‘Irish Molly’ (viola) 6–8in × 12in 4–8 Greenish bronze, Green, broadly ovate, Evergreen
dark center (E–M) deeply cut
‘Königin Charlotte’ 6–8in × 18in+ 4–8 Dark blue, some Green Semi-evergreen
(violet) (syn. fragrance (E)
‘Queen Charlotte’)
labradorica 3–6in × 6in 3–8 Tiny lavender-blue to Dark green, tinged Leaves will retain
deep violet (E–L) purple, round to purple if planted
cordate, emerges deep in sun, aggressive
purple spreader by seed,
North American
native
‘Lianne’ (violet) 6in × 8in 5–9 Dark purple, fragrant Dark green, cordate May rebloom,
(E–M) herbaceous
‘Lorna Cawthorne’ 6–12in × 12in+ 6–9 Soft blue, small (E–L) Rich green Semi-evergreen
(cornuta)
‘Maggie Mott’ 4–8in × 8in 7–9 Lavender-mauve Green Evergreen, RHS
(viola) to purple, large, Award
rounded, silvery
overlay, yellow eye,
fragrant (E–M)
‘Magic’ 4–8in × 8in 5–9 Light purple aging As above Semi-evergreen
to white, prominent
veining, large (E)
odorata 2–8in × 10in+ 6–9 Deep violet-purple, Dark green rosettes, Sweet violet, semi-
flowers before leaves toothed, cordate to evergreen, invasive,
form, fragrant (E) rounded self-sows
o. ‘Alba’ 2–8in × 10in+ 6–9 White (E) Light green rosettes, As above
toothed, cordate to
rounded
o. Rosea Group 2–8in × 10in 6–9 Pink (E) As above As above
pedata 4–8in × 8in 4–8 White or bicolor, Olive-green, deeply Bird’s foot violet,
violet to pale violet, divided, palmate U.S. native,
gold center (E) semi-evergreen
pedatifida 3–5in × 6in 2–8 Deep violet-blue Green, palmate leaves Larkspur violet,
(E–M) with long narrow clump-forming,
leaflets U.S. native,
semi-evergreen
‘Purple Showers’ 6–8in × 8in 6–8 Purple, large (E–L) Deep green, glossy Vigorous, long-
blooming,
semi-evergreen
‘Rebecca’ (violetta) 6–10in × 8in 4–8 White, splashed Green Compact, long-
with purplish blue blooming,
on margins, creamy- semi-evergreen
yellow center,
fragrant (E–L)
‘Rosine’ 6–8in × 8in 4–8 Rose-pink, maroon at Mid-green, fuzzy, Not easy to establish,
throat, small, fragrant toothed, cordate to long-blooming, rangy
(E) rounded

Zantedeschia 499
USDA
Zone
‘Royal Robe’ 6–8in × 10in+ 4–8 Deep violet-purple, Dark green, cordate to Vigorous, similar
(violet) white eye, fragrant, rounded, glossy to V. odorata,
large (E) semi-evergreen
sempervirens 5–6in × 6in 5–9 Yellow with purple Mid-green, glossy, Redwood violet,
center, small (E–M) cordate, small western U.S. native,
almost evergreen
sororia 6in × 8in 4–8 White with violet- Green, cordate to round Woolly blue violet,
blue veins, flat-faced self-sows, U.S. native,
(E–M) herbaceous
s. ‘Albiflora’ 6in × 8in 4–8 White (E) As above Herbaceous, RHS
Award
s. ‘Freckles’ 6–8in × 8in 4–9 White, speckled pale Light green, woolly, Self-sows, herbaceous
purple-blue, large cordate
(E–M)
s. ‘Priceana’ 6–8in × 8in 4–8 Grayish white, darker Light green Confederate
near middle, green violet, aggressive,
center, blue veins herbaceous
(E–M)
tricolor 6–12in × 4–8 Purple, yellow, and Green, oval, deeply Johnny-jump-up,
4–6in white and variations toothed self-sows, annual or
thereof (E–L) short-lived, evergreen
‘White Czar’ 4–8in × 8in 4–8 White with cream Mid-green, cordate to The most common
throat, lower petals rounded white viola,
veined in deep herbaceous
purple, not fragrant
(E)
ZANTEDESCHIA Araceae
Calla lilies make a bold statement in the mixed border, particularly when grown en masse. The
elegant shape of Z. aethiopica’s white flowers makes them very popular for fresh arrangements,
and the very fashionable, richly colored forms, from soft pastels to the hotter shades, are avail-
able in the cut flower trade year-round for bridal bouquets. Think Diego and Frida. The “flower”
or bract, which is called a spathe, surrounds a central spike, or spadix. The spadix is covered in
tiny male and female flowers; the males are at the top, the females are at the bottom. The foliage
is green and sometimes very glossy, arrow-shaped or lanceolate, and often spotted or mottled
white. Calla lilies are not a true bulb but grow from a rhizome. A quick freeze will turn them to
mush above ground; a hard freeze can damage the rhizome, and recovery will be slow or never
in hard winters. They are semi-evergreen in some mild winters. ~ Susan Carter
Scientific Name: After Italian botanist Francesco Zantedeschi.

Common Name: Calla lily.
Preferred Conditions: Any well-drained soil, even heavy soil.
Light: Sun to part shade. Needs sun to flower.

500 Zantedeschia
Zantedeschia
aethiopica Management: Top-dress with organic material in winter. Mulch them deeply with straw
‘Crowborough’. and manure. Clean up when the foliage goes to mush after a freeze. It is sometimes recom-
mended that they be dug up after they die back in the fall and stored in a cool, dry place.
Avoid damaging the rhizomes when handling.
Propagation: Division in spring; root cuttings; seed (except Z. aethiopica is propagated by divi-
sion or root cuttings).
Pests and Diseases: Snails, slugs, aphids, botrytis.
Companions: Large-scale ferns, astilbe, aconitum, darmera, hosta, ligularia, caltha, pontederia,
sagittaria; beside ponds or water gardens.
Notes: Although they are thought of as being quite tender, calla lilies survive our mild winters
in the ground. They are usually purchased at flower shops in six-inch pots with lots of
flower stems; these have been treated to bloom more like the dry bulbs you buy in the
garden centers. Planted in the ground, they will bloom much less and flower very late in
their normal bloom season.

Zantedeschia 501
USDA
Zone
aethiopica 2–4ft × 2ft 8–10 White spathe, deep Dark green, glossy, Calla lily, long
yellow spadix (M) arrow-shaped, leathery, bloomer, RHS Award
unspotted
a. ‘Crowborough’ 2–3ft × 2ft 8–10 White spathe, yellow Dark green, lanceolate, RHS Award
spadix (M) leathery
a. ‘Green Goddess’ 3–4ft × 2ft 8–10 Spathe has white base, Dull green Large plant, a bit
greenish tips, yellow more tender, RHS
spadix (M) Award
albomaculata 12–24in × 8–10 Creamy-yellow or Mid-green, arrow- Spotted calla
10in white spathe, purplish shaped, spotted white
at base, yellow spadix
(M)
‘Black Magic’ 2½ft × 1ft 8–10 Yellow spathe, black Green, heavily mottled Smaller scale
throat (M–L) white
‘Cameo’ 2½ft × 1ft 8–10 Peachy-yellow and red Bright green, spotted As above
spathe (M–L)
‘Deep Throat’ 3ft × 1ft 9–10 White spathe, pink Green, arrow-shaped
throat (M–L)
elliottiana 18–36in × 8–10 Bright yellow spathe, Dark green, arrow- Likes drier soil, full
10in golden yellow spadix shaped, white spots sun, RHS Award
(E–M)
‘Flame’ 1–2ft × 10in 9–10 Red spathe with Dark green, spotted
yellow edges, yellow
spadix (M–L)
‘Mango’ 2ft × 1ft 8–10 Mango-orange spathe, Green, spotted Smaller scale
yellow then green at
base, yellow spadix
(M–L)
‘Pink Persuasion’ 2ft × 1ft 9–10 Pale pink spathe Rich green
(M–L)
‘Rubylite’ 10–12in × 9–10 Dark pink spathe Dark green, narrow
10in (M–L)

GLOSSARY
Here are some terms we have used in this book and what we mean by them.
Basal foliage—refers to leaves growing at ground level of Crown specific—roots in the ground and stem and leaf
a plant. structures above the soil level.
Bracts—small leaves, often associated with a flower or Cultivar—(cv.) the named cultivated variety of a plant
group of flowers. Sometimes they are colorful and that has been selected for specific attributes.
appear to be a part of the flower, occurring around
Curing—allowing perennial leaves to turn color in fall
the back or outside of the flower (as in sunflowers or
before removing.
astrantias).
Cut back—refers to cutting back the above-ground plant
Bulbils—a small bulb, usually one that grows in the axil of
parts (leaves and stems).
a leaf or the inflorescence (as with onions).
Daisylike—frequently used to refer to members of the
Burrs—rough, spiny fruit of a plant.
family Asteraceae, even those that are not called
CBAF—cut back after flowering. daisies, whose flowers resemble a daisy flower.
Cleanup—occurs in fall or winter after plants have gone Deciduous—refers to plants whose foliage drops off at a
dormant and are ready to be cut back. naturally appropriate time, usually in autumn.
Clumping—refers to the tendency of plant to expand to Dioecious—having female and male flowers on different
a finite distance; this can also refer to plants that form plants.
a rosette.
Division—a type of propagation where a plant is either
Colonize—plants with the nature to spread and take over lifted from the garden and divided into viable pieces
substantial parts of a garden. or where young growth is removed from the edge of
the parent plant.
Compost—a product made of brown and green vegetable
materials from the garden that are layered and aged Drought tolerant—refers to plants that can tolerate low
into a brown mass resembling good soil; worth its water conditions either due to climate or site. Usually
weight in gold to gardeners. Homemade compost is these plants grow naturally in low-water areas in their
always better than any you can purchase. native habitat.
Corymb—a raceme with flower stems of different lengths, Ephemeral—of short duration; refers to a short-season
giving it a flat-topped appearance. perennial, often of spring performance (e.g., Ranun-
culus ficaria).
Crown—stem and leaf structures above the ground.
503
Perennials_Backmatter_TP.indd 503 12/7/06 6:18:38 PM

Established plant—a plant that has lived a few years in Palmate—leaf is divided at the base into separate leaflets,
the garden and is thriving. which arise from the end of the leaf stalk.
Evergreen—perennials that do not go dormant and keep Panicle—a very branched inflorescence; tapers from top
their leaves up throughout the year. to bottom.
Fasciated—abnormally flattened or densely leafed Pea sticks—branches of fine-stemmed woody plants
(usually of a stem); possibly caused by a virus but not used to support climbing peas originally; now used
contagious; common in lilies and verbascum. to describe twigs used to support perennials as well
(corylus/hazel is best for the purpose).
Fertile soil—soil that is rich in nutrients and organic
matter. Peltate—the petiole or stem comes to the center of each
leaf; umbrellalike.
Glabrous—without hairs, smooth.
Perfoliate—stem goes through the leaves.
Glaucous—a waxy gray bloom on the surface; can apply
to fruits or leaves. Pinching—whether pinching back or pinching out, the
process of removing tip growth; used to control plant
In situ—(“in place”), sowing seeds in the garden where
height, to reduce the need to stake, and to increase
the plant is to grow.
the number of stems and flowers in some plants; tech-
Invasive—capable of spreading a lot, taking over. nique causes branching in response but reduces the
size of the individual flowers and the flower heads in
Lanceolate—lance-shaped.
most perennials.
Layered—another means of propagation: some plants lay
Pinnate—having separate paired leaflets along both sides
stems on the ground and form roots at nodes on their
of a leaf stalk.
stems or all along the stem (depending on the plant).
Pips—ground level growth buds visible in winter during
Long-lived—used to describe perennials that stay in the
dormancy or just below the surface (e.g., paeonia,
garden more than a few years.
hosta, polygonatum).
Mat-forming—evergreen perennials that form a large,
PPA (Perennial Plant Association) Award—the PPA
flat, or low-growing colony.
issues an annual award for the perennial of the year.
Messy—same as ratty and scraggly, not as bad, but not
Prairie plants—plants native to the American prairie,
acceptable to the obsessive-compulsive.
Rockies to the Mississippi River.
Monocarpic—flowering and fruiting once and then dying;
Pups—offset plants; small, young plants growing along-
can take more than one year to build up to this point.
side the parent.
Monocot—a plant whose seedlings have one cotyledon
Raceme—an inflorescence of indeterminate length with
leaf; leaves have parallel veins and grasslike appear-
flowers on short stems along it.
ance (e.g., lilies, daylilies, crocosmia, schizostylis).
Ratty—deeply disheveled, torn, tattered, unattractive in
Mulching—applying some organic material to the surface
a serious way.
of the soil.
Regeneration—regrowth after a severe trauma.
NPA—Northwest Perennial Alliance.
Reversions—usually applied to variegated plants that
Offsets—a short running stem with a new plant at its
have a tendency to go back (revert) to the original or
tip; also refers to plants that are in bulb or corm form
green form of the plant.
that have daughter bulbs alongside or on thin rootlike
stems connected to the mother bulb. Rhizomatous—spreading by rootlike underground
stems, horizontal in position, producing roots below
Ovate—outline of leaf is egg-shaped and wider at the
and sending up shoots.
base than at the tip end.

Glossary 505
RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) Award—the RHS Spreading—increases by outward expansion, some-
bestows several kinds of awards, e.g., the Award of times indefinitely, sometimes to a specific predeter-
Garden Merit (AGM) is given to particularly fine mined size; by nature not invasive in habit and can be
plants after formal trials. controlled or reduced in size without great effort.
Root cuttings—a propagation process where plants can Spurs—a slender, tubular projection off the back of the
be successfully grown from pieces of root cut from the flower or petal of a number of flowering plants (e.g.,
parent plant. aquilegia); frequently contains nectar.
Root pruning—digging around a perennial to control the Staking—putting in sticks or woody stems around peren-
size of the plant. nials that need support to keep them from falling over
on their neighbors; usually also involves tying up.
Scape—the flowering stems of plants; a leafless stalk rising
from the ground and carrying one or more flowers. Stoloniferous—spreads by a prostrate stem that grows
at or below ground level and produces new plants
Scraggly—same as ratty but distorted as well; perhaps a
from buds at its tip or nodes (strawberry runners are
little diseased.
stolons).
Shear—the process of cutting off growth in a uniform
Stratification—refers to the process in seed germina-
manner all over a plant; can be used to shape, to control
tion where seed has to experience alternating periods
size, or to remove spent flowers; can be done by hand
of cold and not cold or damp conditions in order to
or with a shearing tool for larger plants.
germinate (can also be done chemically).
Short-lived—perennials that live less than three years.
Thug—plants that don’t play well with others; they are
Spadix—fleshy or thickened columnar structure of often invasive by seed or root and tend to take over
minute flowers, usually enclosed in a spathe. large areas of the garden by either growing in or over
their more refined neighbors; usually hard to control
Spathe—a bract, often large and colored, enclosing a
and harder to get rid of.
spadix.
Tuberous—plants with swollen underground stems or
Spike—a single-stemmed inflorescence of indeterminate
roots that are used to store food.
length with stemless flowers along it.
Umbel—an inflorescence where all the flowering stems
originate from the same place; can be flat-topped,
spherical, or dome-shaped (think allium or umbrella).

COMMON NAMES
Some common names refer to the whole genus, some to very specific plants which we have noted here, and some plants
have no common names.
COMMON NAME BOTANICAL NAME COMMON NAME BOTANICAL NAME

alkanet Anchusa betony Stachys
alumroot Heuchera bishop’s mitre Epimedium
angel’s fishing rod Dierama bishop’s weed Aegopodium
anise hyssop Agastache foeniculum bittercress Cardamine
artichoke, globe Cynara cardunculus blackberry lily Belamcanda
Scolymus Group
bleeding heart Dicentra spectabilis
avens Geum
blessed thistle Silybum
baby’s breath Gypsophila
bloodroot Sanguinaria
bachelor’s buttons Centaurea
blue plumbago Ceratostigma plumbagi-
baldmoney Meum noides
balloon flower Platycodon blue star Amsonia
baneberry Actaea blue-eyed grass Sisyrinchium idahoense
var. bellum
barrenwort Epimedium
blue-eyed Mary Omphalodes verna
beardtongue Penstemon
boneset Eupatorium
bear’s breeches Acanthus
bouncing Bet Saponaria officinalis
beebalm Monarda
bowman’s root Gillenia, Veronicastrum
beeblossom Gaura
bridal wreath Francoa
bellflower Campanula
bugbane Cimicifuga
bellwort Uvularia
bugleweed Ajuga
bergamot Monarda
507

bugloss Anchusa comfrey Symphytum

bullslop Primula elatior compass plant Silphium
burnet Sanguisorba coneflower Echinacea, Rudbeckia
butterbur Petasites coral bells Heuchera
buttercup Ranunculus cornflower Centaurea
calamint Calamintha cowslip Primula veris
calla lily Zantedeschia cranesbill Geranium
camas Camassia creeping Jenny Lysimachia nummularia
campion Lychnis, Silene crimson flag Schizostylis
Cape fuchsia Phygelius crosswort Phuopsis
cardinal flower Lobelia cardinalis cuckoo flower Cardamine
cardoon Cynara cardunculus cuckoo pint Arum maculatum
carnation Dianthus (especially cut Culver’s physic Veronicastrum
flower forms)
daisy Aster, Chrysanthemum,
carpet bugle Ajuga Tanacetum,
Leucanthemum
catchfly Lychnis, Silene
dame’s rocket Hesperis
catmint Nepeta (except
N. cataria) daylily Hemerocallis
catnip Nepeta cataria deadnettle Lamium
celandine poppy Stylophorum desert candle Eremurus
chalk plant Gypsophila digger’s speedwell Parahebe
chervil Chaerophyllum dock Rumex
Chinese foxglove Rehmannia dog fennel Anthemis
Chinese lantern Physalis dog’s breath Houttuynia
chocolate cosmos Cosmos atrosanguineus doll’s eyes Actaea
Christmas rose Helleborus niger dragonhead Dracocephalum
cinquefoil Potentilla dropwort Filipendula
clover Trifolium drumstick allium Allium sphaerocephalon
cobra lily Arisaema Dutchman’s breeches Corydalis scouleri
cohosh Cimicifuga elephant ears Bergenia
colewort Crambe cordifolia eryngo Eryngium
columbine Aquilegia evening primrose Oenothera
fairy bells Disporum

Common Names 509
fairy wand Dierama giant hyssop Agastache

false alumroot Tellima giant rhubarb Gunnera
false columbine Semiaquilegia giant scabious Cephalaria gigantea
false dragonhead Physostegia ginger lily Hedychium
false indigo Baptisia globe thistle Echinops
false lupine Thermopsis globeflower Trollius
false mallow Sidalcea goat’s rue Galega
false Solomon’s seal Smilacina goatsbeard Aruncus
false spiraea Astilbe, Filipendula golden lace Patrinia
fennel Foeniculum goldenrod Solidago
feverfew Tanacetum parthenium goldenstar Chrysogonum
figwort Scrophularia gooseneck loosestrife Lysimachia clethroides
fireweed Epilobium goutweed Aegopodium
flag Iris granny’s bonnet Aquilegia vulgaris
(especially the doubles)
flax Linum
green dragon Pinellia
fleabane Erigeron
ground elder Aegopodium
fleeceflower Persicaria
hardy ageratum Eupatorium
flowering onions Allium
hardy begonia Begonia
foamflower Tiarella
hardy Chinese orchid Bletilla
foamy bells ×Heucherella
hardy geranium Geranium
forget-me-not Myosotis
(not Pelargonium)
foxglove Digitalis
hardy ginger Asarum
foxtail lily Eremurus
hardy gloxinia Incarvillea
friar’s cowl Arisarum
heliopsis Heliopsis
fried egg flower Romneya
hepatica Hepatica
fringe cups Tellima
Himalayan poppy Meconopsis (except
fumewort Corydalis M. cambrica)
garland lily Hedychium hog fennel Ferula
gas plant Dictamnus hollyhock Alcea
gay feather Liatris honesty Lunaria
gentian Gentiana horehound Marrubium
giant fennel Ferula horned poppy Glaucium

horsemint Monarda punctata leopard flower Belamcanda

horseradish Armoracia leopard’s bane Doronicum
hyssop Agastache lesser celandine Ranunculus ficaria
ice plant Delosperma lily of the Nile Agapanthus
Indian physic Gillenia lily of the valley Convallaria
Indian pink Spigelia lilyturf Liriope
Indian rhubarb Darmera liverleaf Hepatica
Indian shot Canna loosestrife Lysimachia
inside-out flower Vancouveria lords and ladies Arum maculatum
ironweed Vernonia lungwort Pulmonaria
ivy-leaved toadflax Cymbalaria muralis lupine Lupinus
Jack-in-the-pulpit Arisaema triphyllum mallow Malva
Jacob’s ladder Polemonium Maltese cross Lychnis chalcedonica
Jacob’s rod Asphodeline lutea marguerite Anthemis
Japanese knotweed Fallopia marsh marigold Caltha
Japanese sweet flag Acorus masterwort Astrantia
Jerusalem sage Phlomis fruticosa Matilija poppy Romneya
Joe-Pye weed Eupatorium fistulosum Mayapple Podophyllum peltatum
Jupiter’s beard Centranthus meadow rue Thalictrum
Kansas gay feather Liatris pycnostachya meadowsweet Filipendula
Kenilworth ivy Cymbalaria muralis merrybells Uvularia
kingcup Caltha Michaelmas daisy Aster novi-belgii
knotweed Persicaria milk thistle Silybum
ladybells Adenophora milkweed Asclepias
lady’s mantle Alchemilla (especially mondo grass Ophiopogon
A. mollis)
money plant Lunaria annua
lady’s smock Cardamine pratensis
monkey flower Mimulus
lamb’s ears Stachys byzantina
monkshood Aconitum
larkspur Delphinium
montbretia Crocosmia
leadwort Ceratostigma
moonwort Lunaria
lemon balm Melissa
morning glory Convolvulus
Lenten rose Helleborus orientalis
mother of thousands Tolmiea

Common Names 511
mouse plant Arisarum proboscideum plume thistle Cirsium

mousemilk Euphorbia poke Phytolacca
mugwort Artemisia poker plant Kniphofia
mukdenia Mukdenia pokeweed Phytolacca
mullein Verbascum poppy Papaver
mum Chrysanthemum poppy mallow Callirhoe
nasturtium Tropaeolum pot marjoram Origanum
navelwort Omphalodes prairie mallow Sidalcea
New Zealand burr Acaena prickly rhubarb Gunnera
New Zealand satin flower Libertia primrose Primula
obedient plant Physostegia pyrethrum Tanacetum coccineum
oregano Origanum quamash Camassia
Oswego tea Monarda didyma red hot poker Kniphofia
oxeye daisy Buphthalmum, red valerian Centranthus
Leucanthemum
rhubarb, ornamental Rheum
oxlip Primula elatior
Rodgers’ flower Rodgersia
pansy Viola
rose campion Lychnis coronaria
Pasque flower Pulsatilla vulgaris
rue anemone Anemonella
pearly everlasting Anaphalis
Russian sage Perovskia
peony Paeonia
sage Salvia
perennial candytuft Iberis
sea holly Eryngium
Peruvian lily Alstroemeria
sea pink Armeria
pigsqueak Bergenia
seakale Crambe maritima
piggyback plant Tolmiea
Shasta daisy Leucanthemum
pinchusion flower Scabiosa
sheep’s bit Jasione
pineapple flower Eucomis
sheepsburr Acaena
pinkroot Spigelia
shepherd’s scabious Jasione
pinks Dianthus
shieldleaf rodgersia Astilboides tabularis
plantain Plantago
shooting star Dodecatheon
plaintain lily Hosta
shuttlecock flower Kirengeshoma
plumbago Ceratostigma
Siberian bugloss Brunnera
plume poppy Macleaya
silver dollar plant Lunaria annua

snakeroot Cimicifuga toadflax Linaria

sneezeweed Helenium toad lily Tricyrtis
snow poppy Eomecon tongues and lugs Stachys
soapwort Saponaria torch lily Kniphofia
Solomon’s seal Polygonatum treacleberry Smilacina
sorrel Rumex tree celandine Macleaya
southernwood Artemisia abrotanum turtlehead Chelone
speedwell Veronica twinleaf Jeffersonia
spiderwort Tradescantia twinspur Diascia
spignel Meum umbrella plant Darmera
spotted deadnettle Lamium valerian Centranthus, Valeriana
spotted dog Pulmonaria vervain Verbena rigida
spring vetchling Lathyrus vernus violet Viola
spurge Euphorbia Virginia bluebells Mertensia virginica
star of Persia Allium cristophii Virginia cowslip Mertensia virginica
stinking nettle Strobilanthes wake robin Trillium
Stokes’ aster Stokesia wallflower Erysimum
stonecrop Sedum water parsley Oenanthe
strawberry Fragaria Welsh poppy Meconopsis cambrica
summer hyacinth Galtonia white horehound Marrubium vulgare
sundrops Oenothera whorlflower Morina longifolia
sunflower Helianthus wild indigo Baptisia
sunray Inula willow herb Epilobium
sweet arum Pinellia windflower Anemone
sweet Cicely Myrrhis windmill flower Gaura
sweet coltsfoot Petasites wolfsbane Aconitum
sweet flag Acorus wormwood Artemisia
tansy (silver) Tanacetum niveum yarrow Achillea
thousand-flowered aster Boltonia yellow asphodel Asphodeline lutea
thrift Armeria yellow waxbells Kirengeshoma
tickseed Bidens, Coreopsis yellow-eyed grass Sisyrinchium californicum

NURSERIES AND SOURCES
MAIL-ORDER NURSERIES
Some of these nurseries can be visited; call first or check their Web site.
Aitken’s Salmon Creek Garden Digging Dog

608 NW 119th St. P.O. Box 471
Vancouver, WA 98685 Albion, CA 95410
360.573.4472 707.937.1130
www.flowerfancy.net www.diggingdog.com
B&D Lilies/Snow Creek Gardens Forest Farm

284555 Hwy 101 S. 990 Tetherow Rd.
Port Townsend, WA 98368 Williams, OR 97544
360.765.7341 541.846.7269
www.bdlilies.com www.forestfarm.com
Bluestone Perennials Geraniaceae

7211 Middle Ridge Rd. 122 Hillcrest Ave.
Madison, OH 44057 Kentfield, CA 94904
800.999.9972 415.461.4168
www.bluestoneperennials.com www.geranaceae.com
Canyon Creek Nursery Gossler Farms Nursery

3527 Dry Creek Rd. 1200 Weaver Rd.
Oroville, CA 95965 Springfield, OR 97378
530.533.2166 541.746.3922
www.canyoncreeknursery.com www.gosslerfarms.com
Collector’s Nursery Jackson & Perkins Company

16804 NE 102nd Ave. 1 Rose Ln.
Battle Ground, WA 98604 Medford, OR 97501
www.collectorsnursery.com 877.322.2300
www.jacksonandperkins.com
513

Joy Creek Nursery Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery

20300 NW Watson Rd. 2825 Cummings Rd.
Scappoose, OR 97956 Medford, OR 97501
503.543.6933 541.772.6846
www.joycreek.com www.srpn.net
Klehm’s Song Sparrow Farm & Nursery Wayside Gardens

13101 E. Rye Rd. 1 Garden Ln.
Avalon, WI 53505 Hodges, SC 29695
800.553.3715 800.213.0379
www.songsparrow.com www.waysidegardens.com
Mt. Tahoma Nursery White Flower Farm

28111 112th Ave. E. P.O. Box 50, Rt. 63
Graham, WA 98338 Litchfield, CT 06759
253.847.9827 800.503.9624
www.whiteflowerfarm.com
Naylor Creek Nursery
2610 W. Valley Rd.
RETAIL NURSERIES
Chimacum, WA 98325
360.732.4983
www.naylorcreek.com Bouquet Banque Nursery & Gardens
8220 State Ave.
Marysville, WA 98270
Niche Gardens
360.659.4938
1111 Dawson Rd.
Chapel Hill, NC 27516
919.967.0078 Christianson’s Nursery
www.nichegardens.com 15806 Best Rd.
Mt. Vernon, WA 98273
360.466.3821
Plant Delights Nursery
www.christiansonsnursery.com
9241 Sauls Rd.
Raleigh, NC 27603
919.772.4794 Cistus Nursery
www.plantdelights.com 22711 NW Gillihan Rd.
Sauvie Island, OR 97231
503.621.2233
Reath’s Nursery
www.cistus.com
N 195 County Rd. 577
Vulcan, MI 49892
906.563.9777 City Peoples Garden Store
www.reathsnursery.com 2939 Madison
Seattle, WA 98112
206.324.0737
Roslyn Nursery
211 Burrs Ln.
Dix Hills, NE 11746 Coldsprings Garden Nursery
515.643.9347 18013 W. Snoqualmie Valley Rd. NE
www.roslynnursery.com Duvall, WA 98019
www.csplants.com

Nurseries and Sources 515
Cultus Bay Nursery Portland Nursery

7568 Cultus Bay Rd. 5050 SE Stark
Clinton, WA 98236 Portland, OR 97215
360.579.2329 503.231.5050
www.portlandnursery.com
DIG Floral & Garden

19028½ Vashon Hwy. SW Steamboat Island Nursery
Vashon, WA 98070 8424 Steamboat Island Rd.
206.463.5096 Olympia, WA 98502
360.866.2516
Emerisa Gardens www.olywa.net/steamboat
555 Irwin Ln.
Santa Rosa, CA 95401 Sundquist Nursery, Inc.
707.525.9600 3809 NE Sawdust Hill Rd.
www.emerisa.com Poulsbo, WA 98370
360.779.6343 (call first)
Emery’s Garden
2829 164th St. SW Swans Trail Gardens
Lynnwood, WA 98037 7021 61st Ave. SE
425.743.4555 (call first) Snohomish, WA 98290
www.emerysgarden.com 425.334.4595
www.swanstrailgardens.com
Fremont Gardens
4001 Leary Way NW
Swanson’s Nursery
Seattle, WA 98107
9701 15th Ave NW
206.781.8283
Seattle, WA 98117
www.fremontgardens.com
206.782.2543
www.swansonsnursery.com
Hedgerows Nursery
20165 SW Christensen Rd.
McMinnville, OR 97128 The Garden Spot Nursery
503.843.7522 900 Alabama St.
Bellingham, WA 98225
www.garden-spot.com
Madrona Nursery
815 38th Ave.
Seattle, WA 98122 Wells Medina Nursery
206.323.8325 (call first) 8300 NE 24th
Medina, WA 98038
425.454.1853
Molbak’s
www.wellsmedina.com
13625 NE 175th St.
Woodinville, WA 98072
425.483.5000
www.molbaks.com
Northwest Garden Nursery

86813 Central Rd.
Eugene, OR 97402
541.935.3915 (call first)
www.northwestgardennursery.com

RECOMMENDED READING
Besides the general and regional books we list here, there are many excellent
monographs (books on a specific genus) that we think are worth seeking out for further depth.
Bird, Richard. Cultivation of Hardy Perennials. London: Jelitto, Leo, and Wilhelm Schacht. Hardy Herbaceous
B. T. Batsford Ltd, 1994. Perennials. 2 vols. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press, 1990.
Brickell, Christopher, and Judith D. Zuk, eds. The Amer- Kingsbury, Noël. The New Perennial Garden. London:
ican Horticultural Society A–Z Encyclopedia of Garden Frances Lincoln Ltd., 1996.
Plants. New York: DK Publishing, 1997.
Liberty Hyde Bailey Hortorium of Cornell University.
Chatto, Beth. Damp Garden. Sagaponack, N.Y.: Sagapress, Hortus Third: A Concise Dictionary of Plants Culti-
Inc., 1996. vated in the United States and Canada. Indianapolis,
Ind.: Wiley Publishers, 1976.
———. Dry Garden. Sagaponack, N.Y.: Sagapress, Inc.,
1996. Lovejoy, Ann. The American Mixed Border: Gardens for
All Seasons. New York: Macmillan Publishing Co.,
———. Gravel Garden. London: Frances Lincoln Ltd.,
1993.
2000.
———. Cascadia: Inspired Gardening in the Pacific
Coombes, Allen J. Dictionary of Plant Names. Portland,
Northwest. Seattle: Sasquatch, 1997.
Ore.: Timber Press, 1994.
———. The Garden in Bloom: Plants and Wisdom for the
Hansen, Richard, and Frederich Stahl. Perennials and
Year-Round Gardener in the Pacific Northwest. Seattle:
Their Garden Habitats. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press,
Sasquatch, 1998.
1993.
———. The Ann Lovejoy Handbook of Northwest
Harper, Pamela J. Time-Tested Plants: Thirty Years in a
Gardening. Seattle: Sasquatch, 2003.
Four-Season Garden. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press,
2000. ———. The Border in Bloom: A Northwest Garden Through
the Seasons. Seattle: Sasquatch, 2003.
Hickey, Michael, and Clive King. The Cambridge Illus-
trated Glossary of Botanical Terms. Cambridge: Phillips, Roger, and Martyn Rix. Random House Book of
Cambridge University Press, 2000. Perennials. 2 vols. New York: Random House, 1991.
Hill, Susan, and Susan Narizny. The Plant Locator, Rice, Graham. Reader’s Digest: The Complete Book of
Western Region. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press, 2004. Perennials. Pleasantville, N.Y.: Reader’s Digest
Association, 1996.
517

Royal Horticulture Society. RHS Plant Finder. London: Thomas, Graham Stuart. Perennial Garden Plants.
Dorling Kindersley Ltd. (updated yearly). Portland, Ore.: Sagapress/Timber Press, 1990.
Stearn, William T. Stearn’s Dictionary of Plant Names for Thompson, Peter. Creative Propagation. 2nd ed.
Gardeners. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press, 1996. Portland, Ore.: Timber Press, 2005.
Sunset Western Garden Book. Menlo Park, Calif.: Sunset
Publishing Corp., 2006.

USDA PLANT HARDINESS ZONE MAP
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INDEX
Synonyms are given parenthetically; photographs are indicated by boldface page numbers.
Acaena 16, 34 ‘Hoffnung’ (‘Great Expectations’) ‘Eleonara’ 41

caesiiglauca 34 24, 38 ‘Ivorine’ (septentrionale
inermis 34 ×kellereri 38 ‘Ivorine’) 40, 41
microphylla 34 ‘Lachsschönheit’ (‘Salmon ‘Late Crop’ 41
m. ‘Kupferteppich’ (‘Copper Beauty’) 38 lycoctonum subsp. neapolitanum
Carpet’) 34 millefolium 38 (lamarkii) 12, 41
saccaticupula ‘Blue Haze’ 34 m. ‘Cerise Queen’ 38 l. subsp. vulparia 41
Acanthus 11, 22, 35–36 m. ‘Fire King’ 38 napellus 41
caroli-alexandri 35 m. ‘Lilac Beauty’ (‘Lavender n. subsp. vulgare ‘Albidum’ 41
hungaricus (balcanicus, Beauty’) 38 n. subsp. vulgare ‘Carneum’ 41
longifolius) 35 m. ‘Paprika’ 38 ‘Newry Blue’ 41
mollis 35 m. ‘Red Beauty’ 38 ‘Spark’s Variety’ 41
m. ‘Hollard’s Gold’ (‘Fielding ‘Moonshine’ 38, 120 ‘Stainless Steel’ 41
Gold’) 12, 35 ptarmica 38 Acorus 11, 26, 42–43
m. Latifolius Group 36 p. The Pearl Group 39 calamus ‘Argenteostriatus’
spinosus 36, 208, 371 Summer Pastels Group 39 (‘Variegatus’) 43
s. Spinosissimus Group 36, 371 ‘Summerwine’ 39 gramineus 43, 117, 350
Achillea 11, 17, 32, 36–39 ‘Taygetea’ 39 g. ‘Licorice’ 43
ageratum ‘W. B. Childs’ 37 ‘Terracotta’ 37, 39, 391 g. ‘Ogon’ 42, 43
‘Anthea’ 37 tomentosa 39 g. var. pusillus 43
‘Apfelblüte’ (‘Appleblossom’) 37 t. ‘Aurea’ (‘Maynard’s Gold’) 39 g. ‘Variegatus’ 43
‘Coronation Gold’ 37 t. ‘King George’ 39 Actaea 16, 43–44
‘Credo’ 38 ‘Walther Funcke’ 39 alba (pachypoda, rubra f.
‘Debutante’ 38 ‘Wesersandstein’ (‘Weser River neglecta) 44
‘Feuerland’ (‘Fireland’) 38 Sandstone’) 39 rubra 44
filipendulina 38 Aconitum 16, 19, 22, 39–41 Adenophora 12, 26, 45
f. ‘Gold Plate’ 38 ‘Bressingham Spire’ 41 ‘Amethyst’ 45
f. ‘Parker’s Variety’ 38 ×cammarum ‘Bicolor’ 41 bulleyana 45
‘Heidi’ 38 carmichaelii (fischeri) 41 confusa 45
c. ‘Arendsii’ 41 liliifolia 45
520

Index 521
Aegopodium 11, 46 r. ‘Pink Delight’ 52 a. ‘Dropmore’ 62

podagraria 46 r. ‘Pink Elf’ 51, 52 a. ‘Little John’ 62
p. ‘Variegatum’ 46 r. ‘Purple Brocade’ 52 a. ‘Loddon Royalist’ 62, 357
Agapanthus 11, 32, 46–48 r. ‘Purple Torch’ 52 Anemone 16, 63–65
africanus (umbellatus) 47 r. ‘Silver Beauty’ 52 blanda 17, 64, 194
a. ‘Albus’ 47 r. ‘Variegata’ 52 hupehensis ( japonica) 64
‘Blue Baby’ 47 Alcea 15, 17, 19, 52–53 h. ‘Hadspen Abundance’ 64
‘Blue Triumphator’ 47 ficifolia 52, 53 h. var. japonica 64, 141, 371, 385
‘Bressingham Blue’ 47 Alchemilla 16, 17, 53–55 h. var. japonica ‘Bressingham
‘Bressingham White’ 47, 376 alpina 55 Glow’ 64
campanulatus 47 ellenbeckii 55 h. var. japonica ‘Pamina’ 64
c. ‘Isis’ 47 erythropoda 55 h. var. japonica ‘Prinz Heinrich’
c. ‘Profusion’ 47 mollis 26, 53, 55, 228, 269, 320 (‘Prince Henry’) 64
Headbourne Hybrids 47 m. ‘Auslese’ 55 h. ‘Praecox’ 64
Inapertus 47 m. ‘Thriller’ 55 h. ‘Splendens’ 64
‘Kingston Blue’ 47 Allium 11, 26, 55–57 ×hybrida ( japonica) 64, 427, 491
‘Lilliput’ 47 aflatunense 56 ×h. ‘Alice’ 64
‘Loch Hope’ 47, 48 cernuum 56 ×h. ‘Andrea Atkinson’ 64
‘Midnight Blue’ 47 cristophii 56 ×h. ‘Elegans’ (‘Max Vogel’) 64
‘Mood Indigo’ 47 giganteum 56 ×h. ‘Honorine Jobert’ (‘Alba’) 64
‘Peter Pan’ 47 hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ ×h. ‘Königin Charlotte’ (‘Queen
‘Pinocchio’ 47 57 Charlotte’) 64
‘Storm Cloud’ 47 moly 56, 57 ×h. ‘Kriemhilde’ 64
‘Tinkerbell’ 47 schoenoprasum 57 ×h. ‘Margarete’ 64
‘White Superior’ 47 s. ‘Forescate’ 57 ×h. ‘Richard Ahrens’ 64
Agastache 14, 32, 49–50 senescens 57 ×h. ‘Robustissima’ 65
‘Apricot Sunrise’ 50, 79 s. subsp. montanum var. glaucum ×h. ‘September Charm’ 65
‘Blue Fortune’ 50 (glaucum) 57 ×h. ‘Whirlwind’ 65
foeniculum 50 sphaerocephalon 57, 317, 342 ×lesseri 65
f. ‘Alba’ 50 unifolium 57 multifida 65
f. ‘Aureum’ 50 Alstroemeria 11, 17, 57–59 nemorosa 17, 65, 66, 259, 289, 437
‘Pink Panther’ 50 aurea (aurantiaca) 59 n. ‘Allenii’ 65
rupestris 50 hookeri 59 n. ‘Blue Eyes’ 65
Ajuga 14, 50–52 ligtu 58, 59, 120 n. ‘Flore Pleno’ 65
genevensis 51 Princess Series 59 n. ‘Robinsoniana’ 65
g. ‘Pink Beauty’ 51 psittacina 59 n. ‘Vestal’ 65, 445
pyramidalis 51 p. ‘Royal Star’ (p. variegated) 59 n. ‘Viridiflora’ 63, 65
p. ‘Metallica Crispa’ 51, 288, 337, Amsonia 11, 19, 60 rivalaris 65
437 ciliata 60 sylvestris 65, 456
reptans 51 hubrichtii 60 s. ‘Elise Fellmann’ 65
r. ‘Alba’ 51 orientalis (Rhazya orientalis) 60 s. ‘Macrantha’ 65
r. ‘Atropurpurea’ (‘Bronze tabernaemontana 60 tomentosa 65
Beauty’) 52 t. var. salicifolia 60 Anemonella 16, 17, 66–67
r. ‘Braunherz’ (‘Bronze Heart’) 52 Anaphalis 16, 61 thalictroides 67
r. ‘Burgundy Glow’ 52 margaritacea 61 t. ‘Big Green Picture’ 67
r. ‘Catlin’s Giant’ 52 triplinervis 19, 61, 198 t. ‘Cameo’ 67
r. ‘Jungle Beauty’ 52 t. ‘Sommerschnee’ 61 t. ‘Jade Feather’ 67
r. ‘Multicolor’ (‘Rainbow’, Anchusa 12, 17, 62 t. f. rosea ‘Oscar Schoaf’ 66, 67
‘Tricolor’) 52 azurea 62 t. semi-double white 67
t. ‘Stephanie Feeney’ 67

522 Index
Anthemis 11, 17, 22, 32, 67–68 taiwanese 73 Aruncus 16, 82–84
sancti-johannis 68 tortuosum 73 aethusifolius 83, 428, 450
‘Tetworth’ 68 triphyllum 73 dioicus 83, 192, 304
tinctoria 68 Arisarum 16, 74 d. ‘Glasnevin’ 83
t. ‘E. C. Buxton’ 68 proboscideum 74 d. ‘Kneiffii’ 82, 83
t. ‘Kelwayi’ 68 Armeria 16, 75–76 d. ‘Zweiweltenkind’ 83
t. ‘Sauce Hollandaise’ 67, 68 alliacea (plantaginea) 75 Asarum 11, 18, 84–85
t. ‘Wargrave Variety’ 68 ‘Bee’s Ruby’ 75 canadense 85
Aquilegia 16, 17, 22, 68–71 juniperifolia 76 caudatum 85
alpina 69 j. ‘Bevan’s Variety’ 76 europaeum 85
Biedermeier Group 69 maritima 76 hartwegii 85
caerulea 69 m. ‘Alba’ 76 shuttleworthii 85
canadensis 70 m. ‘Bloodstone’ 76 splendens 85
chrysantha 70 m. ‘Cottontail’ 76 Asclepias 11, 32 86
c. ‘Yellow Queen’ 70 m. ‘Düsseldorfer Stolz’ 76 ‘Cinderella’ 86
‘Crimson Star’ 70 m. ‘Rubrifolia’ 76 incarnata 86
‘Dragonfly’ 70 m. ‘Splendens’ 76 i. ‘Ice Ballet’ 86
flabellata 70 ‘Ornament’ 76 i. ‘Soulmate’ 86
f. ‘Ministar’ 70 pseudarmeria 76 physocarpa (Gomphocarpus
formosa 70 Armoracia 12, 76–77 physocarpa) 86
fragrans 70 rusticana ‘Variegata’ 77 speciosa 86
‘Hensol Harebell’ 70 Artemisia 11, 17, 26, 78–80 tuberosa 86
‘Irish Elegance’ 70 abrotanum 79 t. ‘Gay Butterflies’ 86
McKana Group (‘McKana absinthium 79 Asphodeline 11, 87
Giants’) 70 a. ‘Lambrook Silver’ 79 lutea 87
Music Series 70 alba ‘Canescens’ 79 Aster 11, 15, 18, 19, 26, 28, 88–92
Songbird Series 70 ‘Beth Chatto’ 80 amellus 89
viridiflora 70 ‘Huntington’ 79, 80, 161, 489 a. ‘King George’ 89
vulgaris 70 lactiflora 80 a. ‘Veilchenkönigin’ (‘Violet
v. ‘Adelaide Addison’ 71 l. Guizhou Group 80 Queen’) 90
v. var. flore-pleno 71 ludoviciana 80 ‘Cape Cod’ 90
v. var. stellata (clematiflora) 71 l. ‘Silver King’ 80 ‘Climax’ 90
v. var. stellata Barlow Series l. ‘Silver Queen’ 80 ‘Coombe Fishacre’ 90
‘Black Barlow’ 69, 71 l. ‘Valerie Finnis’ 78, 80 cordifolius 90
v. var. stellata Barlow Series ‘Powis Castle’ 80 divaricatus 90, 290, 310, 394, 463,
‘Nora Barlow’ 71 schmidtiana ‘Silver Mound’ 80 467
v. Vervaeneana Group 71 stelleriana 80 ericoides 90
v. Vervaeneana ‘Woodside Blue’ s. ‘Boughton Silver’ (‘Silver e. ‘Blue Star’ 90
71 Brocade’) 80 e. ‘Pink Cloud’ 90
v. ‘William Guiness’ (‘Magpie’) 71 versicolor 80 e. f. prostratus ‘Snow Flurry’ 90
Arisaema 11, 18, 22, 71–73 Arum 11, 18, 22, 81–82 ×frikartii 32, 90, 288, 392, 454,
candidissimum 73 creticum 81 494
consanguineum 73 italicum 81, 146, 412, 445 ×f. ‘Flora’s Delight’ 90
flavum 73 i. subsp. italicum ‘Marmoratum’ ×f. ‘Jungfrau’ 90
griffithii 73 (‘Pictum’) 82 ×f. ‘Mönch’ 90
jacquemontii 73 i. subsp. italicum ‘Spotted Jack’ ×f. ‘Wunder von Stäfa’ 90
ringens 73 (‘Jack Sprat’) 82 ‘Kylie’ 90
sikokianum 72, 73 i. subsp. italicum ‘Tiny’ 82 laevis 90
speciosum 73 i. subsp. italicum ‘White Winter’ l. ‘Calliope’ 91
82
maculatum 82

Index 523
lateriflorus 91 ‘Bressingham Beauty’ 94 ‘Snowdrift’ 93, 97

l. var. horizontalis 91 ‘Bronze Elegans’ 94 ‘Spinell’ 97
l. ‘Lady in Black’ 91 ‘Bumalda’ 94 ‘Sprite’ 97
l. ‘Prince’ 91 ‘Cattleya’ 94 ‘Straussenfeder’ (‘Ostrich
‘Little Carlow’ 91 chinensis 15, 95, 137 Plume’) 97
‘Little Dorrit’ 91 c. var. davidii 95 ‘Vesuvius’ 97
novae-angliae 91 c. ‘Finale’ 95 ‘Washington’ 97
n. ‘Andenken an Alma Pötschke’ c. ‘Intermezzo’ 95 ‘Weisse Gloria’ 97
91 c. var. pumila 95 ‘Willie Buchanan’ 97
n. ‘Harrington’s Pink’ 91 c. var. taquetii ‘Purpurlanze’ 95 Astilboides 16, 97–98
n. ‘Hella Lacy’ 91 c. var. taquetii ‘Superba’ 95 tabularis 97, 98
n. ‘Septemberrubin’ (‘September c. ‘Veronica Klose’ 95 Astrantia 11, 30, 99–101
Ruby’) 91 c. ‘Visions’ 95 ‘Buckland’ 100
n. ‘Treasure’ 91 ×crispa ‘Lilliput’ 95 carniolica 100
novi-belgii 88, 91 ×c. ‘Perkeo’ 95 ‘Hadspen Blood’ 100
n. ‘Alert’ 91 ‘Darwin’s Margot’ 95 major 100
n. ‘Coombe Violet’ 91 ‘Deutschland’ 95 m. alba 100
n. ‘Fellowship’ 92 ‘Diamant’ 95 m. subsp. biebersteinii 100
n. ‘Lady in Blue’ 92 ‘Dunkellachs’ 95 m. subsp. involucrata 100
n. ‘Patricia Ballard’ 92 ‘Düsseldorf’ 95 m. subsp. involucrata ‘Orlando’
n. ‘Peter Harrison’ 92 ‘Elisabeth’ 95 100
n. ‘Priory Blush’ 92 ‘Elizabeth Bloom’ 95 m. subsp. involucrata ‘Shaggy’
n. ‘Professor Anton Kippenberg’ ‘Erica’ 95 (‘Margery Fish’) 101
92 ‘Etna’ 95 m. ‘Lars’ 101
n. ‘Purple Dome’ 92 ‘Europa’ 95 m. ‘Pat Bender’s Form’ 101
n. ‘Schneekissen’ (‘Snow ‘Fanal’ 96 m. ‘Primadonna’ 101
Cushion’) 92 ‘Federsee’ 96 m. ‘Roma’ 99, 101
n. ‘Winston S. Churchill’ 92 glaberrima var. saxatillis 96 m. var. rosea 101
‘Photograph’ 92 ‘Gloria’ 96 m. ‘Rosensinfonie’ 101
pilosus var. pringlei ‘Monte ‘Glut’ (‘Glow’) 96 m. ‘Rubra’ (carniolica var. rubra)
Cassino’ 92 ‘Granat’ 96 101
‘Ringdove’ 92 ‘Grete Püngel’ 96 m. ‘Ruby Cloud’ 101
sedifolius 92, 288 ‘Hennie Graafland’ 96 m. ‘Ruby Wedding’ 101
s. ‘Nanus’ 89, 92 ‘Hyazinth’ 96 m. ‘Sunningdale Variegated’
tataricus ‘Jindai’ 92 ‘Inshriach Pink’ 96 (major ‘Variegata’) 101, 478
thomsonii ‘Nanus’ 92 ‘Irrlicht’ 96 maxima 101, 354, 388
tongolensis 92 ‘Maggie Daley’ 96 m. ‘Mark Fenwick’ 101
t. ‘Wartburgstern’ (‘Wartburg ‘Mainz’ 96
Star’) 92 ‘Moerheimii’ 96 Baptisia 15, 17, 102–103
‘White Climax’ 92 ‘Montgomery’ 96 alba 102
Astilbe 16, 18, 19, 28, 93–97 ‘Obergärtner Jürgens’ 96 a. var. macrophylla (lactea,
‘Amethyst’ 94 ‘Professor van der Wielen’ 96, leucantha) 102
‘Anita Pfeifer’ 94 190 australis 102
‘Aphrodite’ 94 ‘Queen of Holland’ 96 bracteata (leucophaea) 102
×arendsii 94 ‘Red Sentinel’ 96 ‘Purple Smoke’ 102
‘Betsy Cuperus’ 94 ‘Rheinland’ 96 tinctoria 102
‘Bonn’ 94 ×rosea ‘Peach Blossom’ 96
‘Brautschleier’ (‘Bridal Veil’) 94 simplicifolia 96
‘Bremen’ 94 s. ‘Darwin’s Snow Sprite’ 96

524 Index
Begonia 12, 32, 103–104 Buphthalmum 11, 113 ‘Kent Belle’ 122
grandis subsp. evansiana 103, salicifolium (Inula ‘Golden lactiflora 19, 26, 119, 122, 134, 388
104, 330 Beauty’) 113 l. ‘Loddon Anna’ 122
g. subsp. evansiana var. alba 104 Calamintha 14, 114–115 l. ‘Pouffe’ 122
sutherlandii 104 grandiflora 115 l. ‘Prichard’s Variety’ 122
Belamcanda 14, 105 g. ‘Variegata’ 114, 115 l. ‘White Pouffe’ 122
chinensis 105 nepeta 115 latifolia 122
c. ‘Hello Yellow’ 105 n. subsp. glandulosa ‘White l. var. macrantha 122
Bergenia 16, 31, 106–107, 225, 320 Cloud’ 115 latiloba 84, 123
‘Abendglut’ (‘Evening Glow’) 107 n. subsp. nepeta (nepetoides) 115, l. ‘Alba’ 123
‘Baby Doll’ 107 288 l. ‘Hidcote Amethyst’ 123, 415
‘Ballawley’ 107 Callirhoe 15, 32, 115–116 persicifolia 120, 123, 354, 486
‘Bressingham Ruby’ 107 involucrata 115, 116 p. var. alba 123
‘Bressingham Salmon’ 107 Caltha 16, 116–117, 500 p. ‘Boule de Neige’ 123
‘Bressingham White’ 107 palustris 116, 117 p. ‘Chettle Charm’ (‘George
ciliata 107 p. ‘Flore Pleno’ 117 Chiswell’) 123
cordifolia 107 p. var. palustris ‘Plena’ 117 p. ‘Grandiflora Alba’ 123
c. ‘Redstart’ 107 Camassia 14, 26, 117–118 p. ‘Kelly’s Gold’ 123
c. ‘Winterglut’ 107 cusickii 118 p. ‘Telham Beauty’ 123
emeiensis 106, 107 leichtlinii subsp. leichtlinii portenschlagiana (muralis) 123
‘Morgenröte’ (‘Morning Red’) 107 (‘Alba’) 118 p. ‘Resholdt’s Variety’ 123
purpurascens 107 l. subsp. suksdorfii 118 poscharskyana 123
‘Rotblum’ 107 l. subsp. suksdorfii ‘Blauwe p. ‘E. H. Frost’ 123
‘Silberlicht’ 107 Donau’ 13, 118 p. ‘Stella’ 123
‘Sunningdale’ 107 quamash (esculenta) 118 primulifolia 123
‘Wintermärchen’ 107 Campanula 12, 17, 119–124 punctata 123
Bidens 15, 108 alliariilfolia 121 p. f. rubriflora 124
heterophylla 108 alpestris (allionii) 121 p. f. rubriflora ‘Cherry Bells’ 124
‘Madame Ganna Walska’ 108 ‘Birch Hybrid’ 121 p. ‘Wedding Bells’ 124
triplinervia 108 carpatica 121 pyramidalis 124
Bletilla 11, 109 c. f. alba ‘Weisse Clips’ (‘White p. alba 124
striata 109 Clips’) 121 rapunculoides 124
s. ‘Albostriata’ 109 c. ‘Blaue Clips’ 121 rotundifolia 124
s. var. japonica f. gebina (alba) c. ‘Chewton Joy’ 121 r. ‘Olympica’ 124
109 c. ‘Deep Blue Clips’ 121 takesimana 124
Boltonia 11, 19, 26, 110–111 c. ‘Light Blue Clips’ 121 t. ‘Beautiful Trust’ 124
asteroides 111 c. var. turbinata 121 t. ‘Elizabeth’ 124
a. var. latisquama 110, 111 cochleariifolia (pusilla) 121 trachelium 124
a. var. latisquama ‘Nana’ 111 c. var. alba 121 t. ‘Bernice’ 124
a. var. latisquama ‘Snowbank’ 111 c. ‘Elizabeth Oliver’ 121 Canna 12, 32, 125–126
a. ‘Pink Beauty’ 111 garganica 121 ‘Cleopatra’ 125, 126
Brunnera 12, 18, 111–112 g. ‘Dickson’s Gold’ (‘Aurea’) 122 ‘Durban’ 126
macrophylla 112, 106, 146, 466 glomerata 77, 122 edulis 126
m. ‘Dawson’s White’ (‘Variegata’) g. var. alba 122 glauca 126
112 g. var. alba ‘Schneekrone’ indica 24, 126
m. ‘Hadspen Cream’ 112, 296 (‘Crown of Snow’) 122 iridiflora 126
m. ‘Jack Frost’ 112, 331 g. ‘Joan Elliott’ 122 ‘Panache’ 126
m. ‘Langtrees’ (‘Aluminum Spot’) g. ‘Superba’ 122 ‘Phasion’ (‘Tropicanna’) 126
112 kemulariae 122 ‘President’ 126

Index 525
‘Striata’ (‘Pretoria’, ‘Bengal Chrysanthemum 11, 18, 22, 26, m. var. rosea 146
Tiger’) 126 138–139 m. ‘Variegata’ 145, 146
‘Striped Beauty’ (‘Minerva’, ‘Apricot’ 138, 139 Convolvulus 13, 146–147
‘Nirvana’) 126 ‘Bronze Elegans’ 139 althaeoides subsp. tenuissimus
‘Stuttgart’ 126 ‘Clara Curtis’ 139 (elegantissimus) 147
‘Wyoming’ 126, 305 ‘Emperor of China’ 139 cneorum 147
Cardamine 12, 127–128 ‘Innocence’ 139 sabatius (mauritanicus), 147
diphylla 128 ‘Mary Stoker’ 139 Coreopsis 11, 148–150
dissecta 128 ‘Mei-kyo’ 139 auriculata 149
enneaphylla 128 weyrichii ‘Pink Bomb’ 139 a. ‘Nana’ 149
heptaphylla 128 w. ‘White Bomb’ 139 ‘Goldfink’ (‘Goldfinch’) 149
laciniata 128 Chrysogonum 11, 139–140 grandiflora 17, 32, 149
macrophylla 128 virginianum 139, 140 g. ‘Domino’ 149
maxima 128 v. ‘Allen Bush’ 140 g. ‘Double Sunburst’ 149
pentaphylla 128 v. ‘Pierre’ 140 g. ‘Early Sunrise’ 149
pratensis 127, 128, 437 Cimicifuga (Actea) 16, 18, 19, 140–141 lanceolata 149
p. ‘Edith’ 128 dahurica 141 l. ‘Sterntaler’ 149
p. ‘Flore Pleno’ 128 japonica (acerina) 141 ‘Limerock Passion’ 149
quinquefolia 128 matsumurae ‘Elstead Variety’ 141 ‘Limerock Ruby’ 149
rhaphanifolia (latifolia) 128 m. ‘White Pearl’ 141 rosea 149
trifolia 128, 437 racemosa 141, 162 r. ‘American Dream’ 149
waldsteinii 128 simplex 137, 141 ‘Sonnenkind’ (‘Baby Sun’) 150
Centaurea 11, 17, 29, 129–130 s. Atropurpurea Group 141 ‘Sunray’ 150
dealbata 130 s. Atropurpurea Group ‘Brunette’ ‘Tequila Sunrise’ 150
d. ‘Rosea’ 130 141 tripteris 150
hypoleuca ‘John Coutts’ 130 s. Atropurpurea Group ‘Hillside verticillata 17, 150
macrocephala 130 Black Beauty’ 141 v. ‘Golden Gain’ 148, 150
montana 130 s. Atropurpurea Group ‘James v. ‘Grandiflora’ (‘Golden Shower’)
m. ‘Gold Bullion’ 129, 130 Compton’ 141 150
ruthenica 130 s. Atropurpurea Group v. ‘Moonbeam’ 51, 150
Centranthus 16, 17, 26, 32, 131–132 ‘Pritchard’s Giant’ (ramosa) 141 v. ‘Zagreb’ 150
ruber 131, 132, 315, 451 Cirsium 11, 142 Corydalis 15, 32, 150–152
r. ‘Albus’ 132 rivulare ‘Atropurpureum’ 142 ‘Blackberry Wine’ 151
r. var. coccineus 132 Clematis 16, 143–144 cheilanthifolia 151
r. ‘Roseus’ 132 ×durandii 143, 144 elata 152
Cephalaria 13, 133 heracleifolia 144 flexuosa 152
gigantea (tatarica) 133 integrifolia 144 f. Award of Merit Form 152
leucantha 133 i. ‘Rosea’ 144 f. ‘Blue Panda’ 152
Ceratostigma 16, 134–135 ×jouiniana 144 f. ‘China Blue’ 151, 152
griffithii 135 ‘Mrs. Robert Brydon’ 144 f. ‘Golden Panda’ 152
plumbaginoides 76, 135, 391 ‘Praecox’ 144 f. ‘Père David’ 152
willmottianum 135 recta 144 f. ‘Purple Leaf’ 152
Chaerophyllum 11, 22, 136 r. ‘Purpurea’ 144, 165 lutea 152
hirsutum ‘Roseum’ 136 tubulosa (heracleifolia var. ochroleuca 152
Chelone 16, 18, 137 davidiana) 144 scouleri 152
glabra 137 t. ‘Wyevale’ 144 sempervirens 152
lyonii 137 Convallaria 13, 145–146 s. ‘Alba’ 152
l. ‘Hot Lips’ 137 majalis 146 solida (bulbosa) 152
obliqua 137 m. ‘Fortin’s Giant’ 146 s. subsp. solida ‘George Baker’ 152

526 Index
Cosmos 11, 32, 153 B. ‘Casa Blanca’ 166 ‘Horatio’ 170

atrosanguineus 153 ×bellemosum 166 ‘Inchmery’ 170
Crambe 12, 154–155 Black Knight Group 166 ‘ItSaul White’ 170
cordifolia 134, 155, 197, 420 Blue Bird Group 166 knappii 170
maritima 155 Blue Fountains Group 166 ‘Laced Hero’ 170
Crocosmia 14, 17, 20, 22, 155–157 ‘Blue Jay’ 166 ‘Little Jock’ 170
Bressingham Beacon 156 ‘Blue Mirror’ 166 ‘Mrs. Sinkins’ 170
×crocosmiiflora 156 cardinale 166 ‘Musgrave’s Pink’ (‘Charles
×c. ‘Citronella’ 156 Connecticut Yankees Group 166 Musgrave’) 170
×c. ‘Emberglow’ 24, 156 elatum 25, 30, 166, 293 ‘Oakington’ (‘Oakington Rose’)
×c. ‘Emily McKenzie’ 157 e. ‘New Heights’ 166 170
×c. ‘George Davison’ 157 e. ‘New Millennium’ 166 ‘Paisley Gem’ 170
×c. ‘James Coey’ 157 Galahad Group 166 ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ 170
×c. ‘Lady Hamilton’ 157 grandiflorum (chinense) 166 plumarius 170
×c. ‘Norwich Canary’ (‘Lady g. ‘Blauer Zwerg’ (‘Blue Dwarf’, ‘Rose de Mai’ 171
Wilson’) 157 ‘Blue Elf’) 167 ‘Snowfire’ 171
×c. ‘Plaisir’ 157 g. ‘Blue Butterfly’ 167 ‘Sops-in-Wine’ 171
×c. ‘Queen Alexandra’ 156, 157 Guinevere Group 167 ‘Spotty’ 170
×c. ‘Solfatare’ 4, 157, 158 King Arthur Group 167 superbus 170
×c. ‘Star of the East’ 157 Magic Fountain Series 167 ‘Waithman’s Beauty’ 171
×c. ‘Venus’ 157 nudicaule 167 ‘War Bonnet’ 171
‘Jenny Bloom’ 4, 157 Summer Skies Group 167 Diascia 16, 32, 171–173, 208
‘Jupiter’ 157 Dianthus 13, 17, 22, 167–171 barberae 172
‘Lucifer’ 157 ‘Allspice’ 168 b. ‘Blackthorn Apricot’ 172
masoniorum 157 alpinus 168 b. ‘Ruby Field’ 172
pottsii 157 ‘Aqua’ 168 ‘Emma’ 172
Cryptotaenia 11, 158 ‘Bath’s Pink’ 169 fetcaniensis 172
japonica f. atropurpurea ‘Bat’s Double Red’ 169 integerrima 173
(‘Atropurpurea’) 158 ‘Bourbon’ 169 i. ‘Blush’ 173
Cymbalaria 16, 159 ‘Candy Dish’ 169 ‘Lady Valerie’ 173
aequitriloba 159 caryophyllus 169 ‘Lilac Mist’ 173
a. ‘Alba’ 159 ‘Dad’s Favourite’ 169 rigescens 173
muralis 159 ‘Danielle Marie’ 169 ‘Salmon Supreme’ (‘Hector
m. ‘Nana Alba’ 159 deltoides 169, 440 Harrison’) 173
Cynara 11, 160–161 d. ‘Albus’ 169 vigilis 173
cardunculus 160, 343 d. ‘Arctic Fire’ 169 Dicentra 15, 22, 173–175
c. Scolymus Group 160 d. ‘Brilliant’ 169 ‘Adrian Bloom’ 173, 174
Darmera 16, 18, 26, 161–162 d. ‘Flashing Light’ 169 ‘Bacchanal’ 174
peltata 162 d. ‘Zing Rose’ 169 ‘Bountiful’ 174
p. ‘Nana’ 161, 162 ‘Doris’ 169 eximia 18, 174
Delosperma 11, 16, 32, 162–163 ‘Essex Witch’ 169 e. ‘Snowdrift’ (‘Alba’) 174
cooperi 163 ‘Frosty Fire’ 170 formosa 174, 445
floribundum ‘Starburst’ 163 gratianopolitanus 170 f. ‘Aurora’ 175
nubigenum 163 g. ‘Dottie’ 170 f. ‘Margery Fish’ 175
Delphinium 16, 17, 26, 27, 164–167, g. ‘Firewitch’ 168, 170 f. ‘Tuolumne Rose’ 175
165, 315, 343 g. ‘Tiny Rubies’ 170 ‘Langtrees’ 175
‘Alice Artindale’ 20, 164, 165 ‘Helen’ 170 ‘Luxuriant’ 175
Astolat Group 165 ‘Her Majesty’ 170 scandens 175
Belladonna Group 166 ‘Hoffman’s Red’ 170 ‘Snowflakes’ 175

Index 527
spectabilis 17, 175 Echinacea 11, 18, 32, 187–188 pubigerum 195
s. ‘Alba’ 175 angustifolia 188 ×rubrum 195
s. ‘Gold Heart’ 175 pallida 188 ×versicolor 195
‘Stuart Boothman’ 175 paradoxa 188 ×v. ‘Neosulphureum’ 195
‘Zestful’ 175 purpurea 188, 206, 321 ×v. ‘Sulphureum’ 195
Dictamnus 16, 30, 175–176 p. ‘Bravado’ 188 ×v. ‘Versicolor’ 195
albus 176 p. ‘Bright Star’ 188 ×warleyense 196
a. var. purpureus 19, 176 p. ‘Green Edge’ 188 ×w. ‘Orangekönigin’ 196
Dierama 14, 22, 26, 30, 177–178 p. ‘Kim’s Knee High’ 188 ×youngianum 196
cooperi 178 p. ‘Magnus’ 187, 188 ×y. ‘Niveum’ 196
dracomontanum 178 p. ‘White Swan’ 188, 190 ×y. ‘Roseum’ (‘Lilacinum’) 196
pauciflorum 177, 178 Echinops 11, 18, 189–190 Eremurus 11, 196–197
pendulum 178 bannaticus 189 himalaicus 197
pulcherrimum 178 b. ‘Blue Globe’ (‘Blue Glow’) 189 ×isabellinus ‘Cleopatra’ 196, 197
Digitalis 16, 19, 178–180 b. ‘Taplow Blue’ 189 ×i. Ruiter Hybrids 197
ferruginea 179 exaltatus 189 robustus 197
f. ‘Gelber Harold’ (‘Yellow ritro 189, 190 stenophyllus 197
Herald’) 179 r. subsp. ruthenicus 190 s. subsp. stenophyllus (bungei)
grandiflora (ambigua) 178, 179 r. ‘Veitch’s Blue’ 190 197
g. ‘Carillon’ 179 sphaerocephalus 190 Erigeron 11, 197–198
laevigata 179 s. ‘Arctic Glow’ 190 aurantiacus 198
lanata 179 Eomecon 15, 191 ‘Dunkelste Aller’ (‘Darkest of
lutea 179 chionantha 191 All’) 198
×mertonensis 179 Epilobium 15, 192 glaucus 198, 317
obscura 179 angustifolium 192 karvinskianus (‘Profusion’) 159,
parviflora 180 a. var. album (leucanthum) 192, 168, 198, 352
purpurea 17, 180, 260 228 ‘Prosperity’ 198
p. ‘Pam’s Choice’ 180 Epimedium 12, 193–196 ‘Rosa Juwel’ (‘Pink Jewel’) 198
Disporum 13, 18, 19 180–181 acuminatum 194 Eryngium 11, 18, 28, 30, 199–201
flavens 181 alpinum 194 agavifolium (bromeliifolium) 201
hookeri 181 brachyrrhizum 194 alpinum 199, 201, 486
h. var. oreganum 181 ×cantabrigiense 194 a. ‘Blue Star’ 201
sessile ‘Variegatum’ 44, 181 davidii 194 a. ‘Slieve Donard’ 201
smithii 181 ‘Enchantress’ 194 a. ‘Superbum’ 201
Dodecatheon 16, 182–183 epsteinii 194 amethystinum 201
dentatum 182 franchetii 194 bourgatii 201
hendersonii 182 grandiflorum (macranthum) 194 eburneum (paniculatum) 201
meadia 182 g. ‘Album’ 194 giganteum (‘Miss Willmott’s
m. f. album 182 g. ‘Lilafee’ 194 Ghost’) 15, 17, 165, 201, 460
Doronicum 11, 183–184 g. ‘Nanum’ 195 maritimum 76, 201
‘Little Leo’ 184 g. ‘Rose Queen’ 195 ×oliveranum 201
orientale (caucasicum) 184 g. f. violaceum 195 planum 201
o. ‘Magnificum’ 183, 184 g. ‘White Queen’ 195 p. ‘Blaukappe’ 201
Dracocephalum 14, 184–185 ×perralchicum 195 ×tripartitum 200, 201
grandiflorum (rupestre) 185 ×p. ‘Frohnleiten’ 195 variifolium 201
Dracunculus 11, 186 perralderianum 193, 195 yuccifolium 201
vulgaris 186 pinnatum 195 ×zabelii 201
p. subsp. colchicum 195 ×z. ‘Donard Variety’ 201
p. subsp. colchicum ‘Black Sea’
195

528 Index
Erysimum 12, 202–203 cyparissias 210 v. ‘Multiplex’ (‘Plena’, ‘Flore

‘Bowles’ Mauve’ 158, 202, 203 c. ‘Fens Ruby’ (‘Purpurea’, Pleno’) 216
cheiri ‘Harpur Crewe’ 203 ‘Clarice Howard’) 210 Foeniculum 11, 28, 217–218
‘John Codrington’ 203 c. ‘Orange Man’ 210 vulgare ‘Purpureum’ (‘Bronze’)
‘Julian Orchard’ 158, 203 dulcis 210 217, 218
inifolium ‘Variegatum’ 203 d. ‘Chameleon’ 210 Fragaria 16, 218–219
‘Margaret Lockett’ 222, 203 griffithii 62, 156, 210 ×ananassa ‘Pink Panda’ 219
‘Orange Flame’ 203 g. ‘Dixter’ 210 ×a. ‘Red Ruby’ 219
‘Wenlock Beauty’ 158, 203 g. ‘Fern Cottage’ 210 ×a. ‘Variegata’ 219
Eucomis 14, 204 g. ‘Fireglow’ 20, 207, 211 ‘Lipstick’ 219
bicolor 204 ‘Jade Dragon’ 211 vesca 219
comosa (punctata) 204 ×martini 211 v. ‘Alexandra’ 219
c. ‘Sparkling Burgundy’ 204 ×m. ‘Red Martin’ 211 v. ‘Aurea’ 219
Eupatorium 11, 18, 19, 205–206 myrsinites 211, 352, 440 v. ‘Fructu Albo’ 219
album 206 nicaeensis 211 v. ‘Rügen’ 219
cannabinum 206 palustris 43, 211 Francoa 16, 220
c. ‘Flore Pleno’ 206 polychroma (epithymoides) 211 ramosa 220
fistulosum 206 p. ‘Candy’ (‘Purpurea’) 211 sonchifolia 220
f. ‘Selection’ 206 p. ‘Midas’ 211 Galega 15, 19, 221–222
purpureum 110, 206 rigida (biglandulosa) 211, 239, 352 ×hartlandii 222
p. ‘Bartered Bride’ 206 schillingii 12, 17, 98, 211 ×h. ‘Alba’ 222
p. subsp. maculatum 206 seguieriana 211 ×h. ‘His Majesty’ 222
p. subsp. maculatum s. subsp. niciciana 211 ×h. ‘Lady Wilson’ 221, 222
‘Atropurpureum’ 206 sikkimensis 211 Galtonia 14, 223
p. subsp. maculatum ‘Gateway’ wallichii 211, 342 candicans 223
30, 33, 205, 206 Fallopia 16, 19, 212–213 viridiflora 223
rugosum 206 japonica (Polygonum Gaura 15, 32, 224–225
r. ‘Chocolate’ 206, 420 cuspidatum) 212 lindheimeri 225
Euphorbia 13, 26, 29, 131, 165, j. var. compacta (Polygonum l. ‘Corrie’s Gold’ 225
207–211, 225, 486 reynoutria) 212 l. ‘Crimson Butterflies’ 225
amygdaloides 209 j. var. compacta ‘Milk Boy’ l. ‘Franz Valley’ 225
a. ‘Purpurea’ (‘Rubra’) 209 (‘Variegata’) 212 l. ‘Passionate Pink’ 225
a. var. robbiae 209 j. ‘Crimson Beauty’ 212 l. ‘Siskiyou Pink’ 224, 225
a. ‘Variegata’ 210 Ferula 11, 19, 26, 213–214 l. ‘Whirling Butterflies’ 225
characias 210 communis (‘Gigantea’) 213, 214 Gentiana 14, 226–227
c. ‘Canyon Creek’ 210 Filipendula 16, 18, 214–216 asclepiadea 18, 226, 290
c. subsp. characias 210 ‘Kakome’ 216 a. var. alba 226
c. subsp. characias ‘Humpty palmata 214, 216 lutea 226, 331
Dumpty’ 210 purpurea 216 triflora 226
c. ‘Portuguese Velvet’ 208, 210, p. ‘Elegans’ (palmata Geranium 14, 17, 227–235
229 ‘Elegantissima’) 216 ‘Anne Thomson’ 229
c. subsp. wulfenii 208, 210, 296 rubra 216 ‘Ann Folkard’ 15, 209, 229, 269,
c. subsp. wulfenii ‘Emmer Green’ r. ‘Venusta’ (‘Venusta Magnifica’) 293
210 216 ×antipodeum ‘Stanhoe’ 229
c. subsp. wulfenii ‘John ulmaria 216, 280 ‘Brookside’ 229
Tomlinson’ 210 u. ‘Aurea’ 215, 216 ×cantabrigiense 229
c. subsp. wulfenii ‘Lambrook u. ‘Variegata’ (alnifolia ×c. ‘Biokovo’ 229
Gold’ 210 ‘Variegata’) 216 ×c. ‘Cambridge’ 229
corallioides 210 vulgaris (hexapetala) 216 ×c. ‘Karmina’ 229

Index 529
×c. ‘St Ola’ 229 ×o. f. thurstonianum s. ‘Mayflower’ 235

cinereum ‘Ballerina’ 229 ‘Southcombe Star’ 232 s. ‘Silva’ 235
c. ‘Laurence Flatman’ 230 ×o. ‘Walter’s Gift’ 232 tuberosum 17, 235
clarkei ‘Kashmir Purple’ 230 ‘Patricia’ 232 versicolor 235
c. ‘Kashmir White’ 230 phaeum 209, 233 wallichianum 235
dalmaticum 230 p. ‘Album’ 233 w. ‘Buxton’s Variety’ 235
d. ‘Album’ 230 p. ‘Lily Lovell’ 233 wlassovianum 235
‘Dilys’ 230 p. var. lividum ‘Joan Baker’ 233 Geum 16, 17, 236–237
endressii 230 p. var. phaeum 233 ‘Borisii’ 209, 237
e. ‘Wargrave Pink’ 230 p. var. phaeum ‘Samobor’ 153, 233 chiloense (coccineum, quellyon)
‘Francis Grate’ 230 p. ‘Taft’s Jester’ 233 237
himalayense 230 p. ‘Variegatum’ 233 ‘Coppertone’ 236, 237
h. ‘Gravetye’ 230 ‘Philippe Vapelle’ 233 ‘Fire Opal’ 237
h. ‘Irish Blue’ 230 pratense 22, 233 ‘Georgenburg’ 237
h. ‘Plenum’ (‘Birch Double’) 230 p. ‘Mrs. Kendall Clark’ 233 ‘Lady Stratheden’ (‘Goldball’) 237
incanum ‘Sugar Plum’ 230 p. ‘Plenum Caeruleum’ 233 ‘Lemon Drops’ 237
‘Ivan’ 230 p. ‘Plenum Violaceum’ 233 ‘Lionel Cox’ 237
‘Johnson’s Blue’ 231, 236 p. ‘Striatum’ (‘Splish Splash’) 233 ‘Mrs. J. Bradshaw’ (‘Feuerball’)
‘Kashmir Blue’ 231 p. ‘Victor Reiter’ 234 120, 237
macrorrhizum 231 psilostemon 12, 14, 17, 36, 83, 209, ‘Red Wings’ 237
m. ‘Album’ 231 215, 234, 280 rivale 42, 237
m. ‘Bevan’s Variety’ 231 p. ‘Bressingham Flair’ 234 r. ‘Leonard’s Variety’ 237
m. ‘Ingwersen’s Variety’ 231 pyrenaicum ‘Bill Wallis’ 228, 234 ‘Starker’s Magnificum’ 237
m. ‘Pindus’ 231 renardii 234 triflorum 237
m. ‘Spessart’ 231 ×riversleaianum ‘Mavis Simpson’ Gillenia 16, 238
m. ‘Variegatum’ 231 22, 234 trifoliata 238
maculatum 231 ×r. ‘Russell Prichard’ 234 Glaucium 15, 26, 239
m. f. albiflorum 231 robustum 234 corniculatum 239
m. ‘Chatto’ 231 ‘Salome’ 234 flavum 239
m. ‘Elizabeth Ann’ 231 sanguineum 234, 317 Gunnera 14, 26, 240–241
×magnificum 17, 231, 228 s. ‘Alan Bloom’ 234 magellanica 240
malviflorum 231 s. ‘Album’ 234 manicata 29, 240
×monacense 232 s. ‘Alpenglow’ 234 prorepens 240
×m. var. monacense ‘Muldoon’ s. ‘Ankum’s Pride’ 234 tinctoria (chilensis) 240
232 s. ‘Cedric Morris’ 234 Gypsophila 13, 17, 241–242
‘Nimbus’ 232 s. ‘John Elsley’ 234 fastigiata ‘Festival’ (Festival
nodosum 232 s. ‘Max Frei’ 234 Series) 242
orientalitibeticum 232 s. ‘New Hampshire Purple’ 234 f. ‘Festival Pink’ 242
×oxonianum 228, 232 s. ‘Shepherd’s Warning’ 235 f. Happy Festival (‘Danghappy’)
×o. ‘A. T. Johnson’ 232 s. var. striatum (var. 242
×o. ‘Bressingham’s Delight’ 232 lancastriense) 235 paniculata 241, 242
×o. ‘Claridge Druce’ 232 subcaulescens 235 p. ‘Bristol Fairy’ 242
×o. ‘Katherine Adele’ 232 s. ‘Giuseppii’ 235 p. ‘Flamingo’ 242
×o. ‘Phoebe Noble’ 232 s. ‘Splendens’ 235 p. ‘Perfekta’ 242
×o. ‘Rose Clair’ 232 sylvaticum 235, 415 p. ‘Pink Fairy’ 242
×o. f. thurstonianum 232 s. ‘Album’ 235 p. ‘Schneeflocke’ (‘Snowflake’)
×o. f. thurstonianum s. ‘Amy Doncaster’ 235 242
‘Southcombe Double’ 232 repens 242

530 Index
‘Rosenschleier’ (‘Rosy Veil’) 242 lividus 251 ‘Hall’s Pink’ 256

‘Viette’s Dwarf’ 242 niger 251 ‘Happy Returns’ 256
Hedychium 16, 29, 243–244 n. Blackthorn Group 251 ‘Hyperion’ 256
coccineum 244 n. ‘Potter’s Wheel’ 252 ‘Ice Carnival’ 256
c. ‘Tara’ 243, 244 n. ‘White Magic’ 252 ‘James Marsh’ 256
densiflorum ‘Stephen’ 244 ×nigercors 252 ‘Janice Brown’ 257
greenii 244 odorus 252 ‘Jedi Spellbinder’ 257
Helenium 11, 18, 244–245 orientalis (×hybridus) 81, 180, ‘Joan Senior’ 257
autumnale 245 249, 250, 252, 283, 414 lilioasphodelus (flava) 257, 470
bigelovii 245 o. ‘Ballard’s Group’ 252 ‘Little Bumble Bee’ 257
‘Bruno’245 o. ‘Blue Lady’ 252 ‘Little Fred’ 257
‘Butterpat’ 245 o. double-flowered hybrids 252 ‘Little Grapette’ 257
‘Coppelia’ 245 o. Party Dress Group 252 ‘Little Wine Cup’ 257
‘Feuersiegel’ 245 o. Royal Heritage Strain 252 ‘Lullaby Baby’ 257
hoopesii (Hymenoxys hoopesii) purpurascens 252 ‘Lusty Leland’ 257
245 ×sternii 252 ‘Magic Lace’ 257
‘Moerheim Beauty’ 244, 245 ×s. Blackthorn Group 252 ‘Mary Todd’ 257
‘Riverton Beauty’ 245 ×s. ‘Boughton Beauty’ 252 ‘Mini Stella’ 257
‘Rotgold’ (‘Red and Gold’) 245 thibetanus 252 ‘Naomi Ruth’ 257
‘The Bishop’ 245 torquatus 252 ‘On Stage’ 257
Helianthus 11, 18, 28, 45, 246–247 viridis subsp. viridis 252 ‘Pandora’s Box’ 257
angustifolius 247 Hemerocallis 14, 17, 22, 200, 215, ‘Pardon Me’ 257
‘Capenoch Star’ 247 253–258, 254 ‘Pink Damask’ 257
giganteus ‘Shelia’s Sunshine’ 247 ‘Anzac’ 255 ‘Pink Embers’ 257
‘Lemon Queen’ (‘Limelight’) 19, ‘Autumn Minaret’ 4, 255, 489 ‘Prairie Blue Eyes’ 257
246, 247 ‘Autumn Red’ 255 ‘Purple Waters’ 257
‘Loddon Gold’ (decapetalus) 247 ‘Baja’ 255 ‘Raspberry Pixie’ 258
maximiliani 19, 79, 247 ‘Bertie Ferris’ 255 ‘Red Magic’ 258
‘Monarch’ 247 ‘Bitsy’ 255 ‘Sammy Russell’ 258
salicifolius (orgyalis) 18, 27, 153, ‘Black-Eyed Stella’ 255 ‘Siloam Amazing Grace’ 258
247 ‘Bonanza’ 255 ‘Siloam Button Box’ 258
Heliopsis 11, 18, 247–248 ‘Carlotta’ 255 ‘Stafford’ 258
helianthoides 248 ‘Catherine Woodbery’ 255 ‘Star Struck’ 258
h. ‘Loraine Sunshine’ 248 ‘Cedar Waxwing’ 255 ‘Stella de Oro’ 258
h. var. scabra 248 ‘Chicago Cattleya’ 255 ‘Strawberry Candy’ 258
var. scabra ‘Sommersonne’ citrina 255 ‘Summer Wine’ 258
(‘Summer Sun’) 248 ‘Corky’ 158, 256 ‘Suzie Wong’ 258
var. scabra ‘Spitzentänzerin’ ‘Double River Wye’ 256 ‘Tetrina’s Daughter’ 258
(‘Ballerina’) 248 ‘Eenie Allegro’ 256 ‘Yellowstone’ 258
Helleborus 16, 28, 249–252 ‘Eenie Fanfare’ 256 Hepatica 16, 19, 258–259
argutifolius (corsicus) 26, 209, ‘Eenie Weenie’ 256 acutiloba 259
251, 360 ‘Frans Hals’ 256 americana 259
a. ‘Janet Starnes’ 180, 251 ‘Frosty Beauty’ 256 nobilis (triloba) 259
a. ‘Pacific Frost’ 251 fulva 256 transsilvanica 259
×ericsmithii (×nigristern) 251 f. ‘Flore Pleno’ 253, 256 Hesperis 12, 260
foetidus 81, 192, 251 f. ‘Variegated Kwanso’ 256 matronalis 131, 260
f. ‘Narrow Leaf’ 250, 251 ‘Gentle Shepherd’ 256 m. double-flowered 260
f. ‘Sopron’ 251 ‘Golden Chimes’ 158, 256 Heuchera 16, 18, 22, 30, 261–267
f. Wester Flisk Group 251 ‘Grape Velvet’ 256 americana 262

Index 531
a. Dale’s Strain 262 s. ‘Chatterbox’ 265 ‘Dorset Blue’ 271

‘Amethyst Myst’ 262 s. ‘June Bride’ 265 ‘Elvis Lives’ 271
‘Autumn Haze’ 262 s. ‘Monet’ 265 ‘Emerald Tiara’ 271
Bressingham Hybrids 262 s. ‘Snow Storm’ 265 ‘Emily Dickinson’ 271
‘Can-can’ 262 s. ‘Splendens’ 265 ‘Fire and Ice’ 271
‘Canyon Delight’ 261, 262 s. ‘Splish Splash’ 265 fortunei var. albopicta
‘Canyon Pink’ 262 s. ‘White Cloud’ 265 (‘Aureomaculata’) 271
‘Cappuccino’ 262 ‘Silver Scrolls’ 265 f. var. aureomarginata (‘Obscura
‘Cascade Dawn’ 263 ‘Silver Shadows’ 265 Marginata’) 271
‘Cathedral Windows’ 263 ‘Smokey Rose’ 265 f. var. hyacinthina 271
‘Checkers’ 263 ‘Stormy Seas’ 265 ‘Fragrant Bouquet’ 271
‘Cherries Jubilee’ 263 ‘Velvet Night’ 265 ‘Francee’ 272
‘Chocolate Ruffles’ 263 ×Heucherella 16, 18, 22, 30, 266–267 ‘Frances Williams’ 272
‘Chocolate Veil’ 263 alba ‘Bridget Bloom’ 267 ‘Fringe Benefit’ 272
‘Coral Bouquet’ 263 a. ‘Rosalie’ 267 ‘Ginko Craig’ 272
‘Crimson Curls’ 263 ‘Burnished Bronze’ 267 ‘Gold Drop’ 272
cylindrica 263 ‘Cinnamon Bear’ 267 ‘Gold Edger’ 272
c. ‘Greenfinch’ 20, 263 ‘Dayglow Pink’ 267 ‘Golden Tiara’ 272, 400
‘Ebony and Ivory’ 263 ‘Kimono’ 266, 267 ‘Gold Standard’ 272
‘Eco Magnififolia’ 263 ‘Pink Frost’ 267 ‘Great Expectations’ 272
‘Firefly’ (‘Leuchtkafer’) 263 ‘Quicksilver’ 267 ‘Ground Master’ 272
‘Fireworks’ 263 ‘Silver Streak’ 267 ‘Guacamole’ 272
‘Green Ivory’ 263 tiarelloides 267 ‘Hadspen Blue’ 272
‘Green Spice’ 263 t. ‘Crimson Cloud’ 267 ‘Halcyon’ 18, 272
‘Magic Wand’ 263 ‘Viking Ship’ 267 ‘Honeybells’ 272
micrantha 264 Hosta 14, 18, 22, 28, 268–276, 269 ‘Inniswood’ 272
m. var. diversifolia Bressingham ‘Abba Dabba Do’ 269 ‘Invincible’ 273
Bronze = ‘Absi’ 264 ‘Abiqua Drinking Gourd’ 269 ‘Janet’ 273
m. var. diversifolia ‘Palace Purple’ ‘Abiqua Moonbeam’ 269 ‘June’ 273
264 ‘Albomarginata’ 269 ‘Kifukurin’ 273
m. ‘Martha Roderick’ 264 ‘Allen P. McConnell’ 270 ‘Krossa Regal’ 273
‘Mint Frost’ 264 ‘Antioch’ 270 lancifolia 273
‘Montrose Ruby’ 264 ‘Aoki’ 270 ‘Little Aurora’ 273
‘Northern Fire’ 264 ‘Aphrodite’ 270 ‘Little Sunspot’ 273
‘Oakington Jewel’ 264 ‘August Moon’ 270 ‘Love Pat’ 273
‘Obsidian’ 264 ‘Aureomarginata’ 270 ‘Lunar Eclipse’ 273
‘Palace Passion’ 264 ‘Big Daddy’ 270 ‘Minuteman’ 273
‘Persian Carpet’ 264 ‘Birchwood Parky’s Gold’ 270 ‘Moerheim’ 273
‘Petite Pearl Fairy’ 264 ‘Blue Angel’ 270 montana (fortunei var. gigantea)
‘Pewter Moon’ 264 ‘Blue Boy’ 270 273
‘Pewter Veil’ 264 ‘Blue Cadet’ 270 ‘Night Before Christmas’ 273
‘Plum Pudding’ 264 ‘Blue Umbrellas’ 270 ‘Northern Exposure’ 273
‘Purple Petticoats’ 264 ‘Blue Wedgwood’ 270 ‘On Stage’ 274
‘Raspberry Regal’ 264 ‘Bressingham Blue’ 270 ‘Pacific Blue Edger’ 274
‘Regina’ 265 ‘Bright Lights’ 271 ‘Paradigm’ 274
‘Ring of Fire’ 265 ‘Brim Cup’ 271 ‘Patriot’ 274
‘Ruby Mist’ 265 ‘Candy Hearts’ 271 ‘Paul’s Glory’ 274
‘Ruby Veil’ 265 ‘Cherry Berry’ 271 ‘Piedmont Gold’ 274
sanguinea 265 ‘Christmas Tree’ 271 plantaginea 274
‘Color Glory’ 271 p. var. japonica (grandiflora) 274

532 Index
[Hosta] Inula 11, 17, 280–281 s. ‘Caesar’s Brother’ 285

‘Regal Splendor’ 274 ensifolia 281 s. ‘Cambridge’ 285
‘Royal Standard’ 274 helenium 280, 281 s. ‘Chilled Wine’ 282, 285
‘Sagae’ 274 hookeri 281 s. ‘Ego’ 285
‘Samurai’ 274 magnifica 281 s. ‘Ewen’ 286
‘Shade Fanfare’ 274 orientalis (glandulosa) 281 s. ‘Flight of Butterflies’ 286
sieboldiana 274 royleana 281 s. ‘Forrest McCord’ 286
s. var. elegans 275 Iris 14, 23, 28, 281–287 s. ‘Fourfold White’ 286
‘Snow Flakes’ 275 chrysographes 283 s. ‘Orville Fay’ 286
‘So Sweet’ 275 cristata 283 s. ‘Papillon’ 286
‘Spilt Milk’ 275 douglasiana 283 s. ‘Ruffled Velvet’ 286
‘Stiletto’ 275 ensata (kaempferi) 26, 54, 283, s. ‘Shirley Pope’ 286
‘Striptease’ 275 414 s. ‘Showdown’ 286
‘Sum and Substance’ 51, 275 e. ‘Cry of Rejoice’ 283 s. ‘Silver Edge’ 281, 286
‘Sun Power’ 275 e. ‘Darling’ 283 s. ‘Sky Wings’ 286
tardiflora 275 e. ‘Gracieuse’ 283 s. ‘Snow Queen’ 286
‘Tattoo’ 275 e. ‘Jodlesong’ 283 s. ‘Sparkling Rose’ 286
tokudama 275 e. ‘Variegata’ 283 s. ‘Tycoon’ 286
t. f. aureonebulosa 275 ‘Florentina’ 283 s. ‘White Swirl’ 286
t. f. flavocircinalis 275 foetidissima 77, 146, 284, 470 spuria 286
‘True Blue’ 275 f. var. citrina (f. chinensis) 284 tectorum 286
undulata 276 f. ‘Variegata’ 104, 284 t. ‘Variegata’ 287
u. var. albomarginata germanica 45, 130, 284, 440 tenax 287
(‘Albo-marginata’) 276 graminea 284 unguicularis 287
u. var. undulata (‘Variegata’) 276 ‘Holden Clough’ 284 versicolor 287
ventricosa 268, 276 japonica 94, 137, 241, 284, 374 Jasione 12, 287–288
v. var. aureomaculata 276 j. ‘Variegata’ 284 laevis (perennis) 288
venusta 276 laevigata 284 l. ‘Blaulicht’ (‘Blue Light’) 287,
‘Wide Brim’ 276 l. ‘Variegata’ 284 288
‘Zounds’ 276 Pacific Coast Hybrids (California Jeffersonia 12, 288–289
Houttuynia 16, 26, 276–277 Hybrids) 76, 128, 284 diphylla 288, 289
cordata 277 pallida 284 dubia 289
c. ‘Chameleon’ 277 p. ‘Argentea Variegata’ 284 Kalimeris 11, 289–290
c. ‘Flore Pleno’ 277 p. ‘Variegata’ (‘Aurea’) 284 incisa 290
Iberis 12, 278 pseudacorus 36, 118, 280, 285, yomena ‘Shogun’ (‘Variegata’)
gibraltarica 278 304, 329, 433 289, 290
‘Golden Candy’ 278 p. ‘Alba’ 285 Kirengeshoma 14, 18, 19, 290–291
sempervirens (commuta) 278 p. var. bastardii 285 palmata 291
s. ‘Alexander’s White’ 278 p. ‘Flore Pleno’ 285 p. Koreana Group 290, 291
s. ‘Purity’ 278 p. ‘Roy Davidson’ 285 Knautia 13, 32, 291–292
s. ‘Schneeflocke’ (‘Snowflake’) p. ‘Variegata’ 13, 117, 285 macedonica 15, 22, 254, 291, 292,
278 pumila 285 392
s. ‘Weisser Zwerg’ (‘Little Gem’) ×robusta ‘Gerald Darby’ 285 m. ‘Mars Midget’ 292
278 setosa 285 m. ‘Melton Pastels’ 292
Incarvillea 12, 279–280 sibirica 13, 14, 20, 30, 100, 207, Kniphofia 11, 18, 26, 292–294
arguta 279 209, 282, 285, 312, 458 ‘Alcazar’ 293
delavayi 279 s. ‘Baby Sister’ 285 ‘Bee’s Sunset’ 293
d. ‘Snowtop’ (‘Alba’) 279 s. ‘Blue King’ 285 ‘Border Ballet’ 294
grandiflora 279 s. ‘Butter and Sugar’ 285 ‘Bressingham Comet’ 294
olgae 279

Index 533
caulescens 294 ×s. ‘Marconi’ 300 muscari (platyphylla,

‘Earliest of All’ 294 ×s. ‘Polaris’ 300 graminifolia) 310
‘Little Maid’ 294 ×s. ‘Silberprinzesschen’ (‘Silver m. ‘Big Blue’ 310
‘Modesta’ 292, 294 Princess’) 300 m. ‘Monroe White’ 309, 310
‘Percy’s Pride’ 294 ×s. ‘Snow Lady’ 300 m. ‘Variegata’ 310
‘Pfitzeri’ 294 ×s. ‘Snowcap’ 300 spicata 310
‘Primrose Beauty’ 293, 294 ×s. ‘Summer Snowball’ 300 Lobelia 12, 18, 22, 311–313
rooperi (‘C. M. Prichard’) 294 ×s. ‘T. E. Killin’ 300 ‘Brightness’ 312
‘Shining Sceptre’ 294 ×s. ‘Wirral Pride’ 300 cardinalis 312
‘Springtime’ 294 vulgare (Chrysanthemum c. ‘Bees Flame’ 312, 374
‘Sunningdale Yellow’ 294 leucanthemum) 300 c. ‘Elmfeuer’ (fulgens ‘Saint
‘Toffee Nosed’ 294 v. ‘Maikönigin’ (‘May Queen’) Elmo’s Fire’) 312
triangularis 294 300 c. ‘Eulalia Berridge’ 312
t. subsp. triangularis (galpinii) Liatris 11, 301–302 c. ‘Queen Victoria’ 312
294 pycnostachya 302 c. ‘Rose Beacon’ 312
uvaria (Tritoma uvaria) 294 spicata 302 ‘La Fresco’ 312
Lamium 14, 295–297 s. ‘Alba’ 302 laxiflora 312, 391
album 297 s. ‘Floristan Violett’ 301, 302 l. var. angustifolia 312
a. ‘Friday’ 297 s. ‘Floristan Weiss’ (‘Floristan siphilitica 312, 374
galeobdolon (luteum) 297 White’) 302 s. ‘Blue Selection’ 312
g. ‘Hermann’s Pride’ 297, 482 s. ‘Kobold’ (‘Goblin’) 302 ×speciosa (×gerardii) 312
g. subsp. montanum Libertia 14, 302–303 ×s. ‘Dark Crusader’ 311, 312
‘Florentinum’ (‘Variegatum’) 297 formosa (chilensis) 303 ×s. ‘Fan Orchidrosa’ (‘Fan Deep
maculatum 297 peregrinans 303 Rose’) 312
m. ‘Album’ 297 Ligularia 11, 18, 304–306 ×s. ‘Fan Scharlach’ (‘Fan Scarlet’)
m. ‘Aureum’ 296, 297, 350 dentata (clivorum) 305 313
m. ‘Beacon Silver’ d. ‘Desdemona’ 13, 305 ×s. ‘Fan Tiefrot’ (‘Fan Deep Red’)
(‘Silbergroschen’) 297 d. ‘Othello’ 304, 305 313
m. ‘Beedham’s White’ 297 ‘Gregynog Gold’ 306 ×s. ‘Gladys Lindley’ 313
m. ‘Chequers’ 297 japonica 306 ×s. ‘Grape Knee-Hi’ 313
m. ‘Pink Nancy’ 297 ×palmatiloba 306 ×s. ‘Kompliment Blau’
m. ‘Pink Pewter’ 297 przewalskii 306 (‘Compliment Blue’) 313
m. ‘Red Nancy’ 297 sibirica 306 ×s. ‘Kompliment Scharlach’
m. ‘Roseum’ (‘Shell Pink’) 297 ‘The Rocket’ 306 (‘Compliment Scarlet’) 313
m. ‘White Nancy’ 104, 297, 350 wilsoniana 306 ×s. ‘Kompliment Tiefrot’
orvala 295, 297, 400, 466 Linaria 16, 306–307 (‘Compliment Deep Red’) 313
o. ‘Album’ 297 ‘Natalie’ 307 ×s. ‘Kompliment Violet’ (‘Violet
Lathyrus 15, 30, 298 purpurea 307 Compliment’) 313
aureus 298 p. ‘Canon Went’ 307 ×s. ‘Pink Flamingo’ 313
niger 298 triornithophora 131, 307 ×s. ‘Purple Towers’ 313
sativus 298 Linum 15, 308–309 ×s. ‘Ruby Slippers’ 313
vernus 17, 229, 298, 466, 492 narbonense 309 ×s. ‘Russian Princess’ 313
Leucanthemum 11, 17, 299–300 perenne (sibiricum) 308, 309 ×s. ‘Sparkle DeVine’ 313
×superbum (Chrysanthemum p. ‘Blau Saphir’ (‘Blue Sapphire’) ×s. ‘Tania’ 313
maximum) 300 309 ×s. ‘Vedrariensis’ 313, 374
×s. ‘Aglaia’ (‘Aglaya’) 300 p. ‘Diamant’ 309 tupa 313
×s. ‘Alaska’ 299, 300 Liriope 13, 309–310 ‘Wildwood Splendour’ 313
×s. ‘Cobham Gold’ 300 ‘Majestic’ 310 Lunaria 12, 314
×s. ‘Esther Read’ 300 rediviva 314

534 Index
Lupinus 15, 315–316 sylvestris 324 didyma 335

Gallery Series 316 s. Marina = ‘Dema’ 324 d. ‘Stone’s Throw Pink’ 335
latifolius subsp. parishii 316 s. ‘Primley Blue’ 324 ‘Elsie’s Lavender’ 335
Russell Hybrids 315, 316 s. ‘Zebrina’ 323, 324 ‘Fishes’ (‘Pisces’) 335
Woodford Hybrids 316 Marrubium 14, 324–325 fistulosa 335
Lychnis 13, 316–319 cylleneum 325 f. ‘Claire Grace’ 335
alpina 318 incanum (candidissimum) 325 ‘Gardenview Scarlet’ 334, 335
×arkwrightii 318 rotundifolium 325 ‘Jacob Cline’ 335
×a. ‘Orange Gnome’ 318 vulgare 325 ‘Mahogany’ 335
×a. ‘Vesuvius’ 318 Meconopsis 15, 22, 326–328 ‘Marshall’s Delight’ 335
chalcedonica 22, 318, 327 betonicifolia (baileyi) 326, 328 ‘Mohawk’ 335
coronaria (Agrostemma b. var. alba 328 Petite Delight = ‘Acpetdel’ 335
coronaria) 317, 318 cambrica 328, 339 ‘Petite Wonder’ 335
c. ‘Alba’ 318 c. flore-pleno 328 ‘Prärienacht’ (‘Prairie Night’) 335
c. ‘Angel’s Blush’ 318 c. ‘Frances Perry’ (‘Rubra’) 328 punctata 335
c. Oculata Group 317, 318 c. ‘Muriel Brown’ 327, 328 ‘Raspberry Wine’ 335
flos-cuculi 318 grandis 328 ‘Sagittarius’ 336
flos-jovis 318 horridula 328 ‘Schneewittchen’ (‘Snow White’)
f. ‘Nana’ 318 h. ‘Slieve Donard’ 328 336
f. ‘Peggy’ 319 napaulensis 328 ‘Scorpion’ 336
×haageana 319 ×sheldonii 328 ‘Snow Queen’ 336
viscaria 319, 409 villosa 328 ‘Squaw’ 336
v. ‘Plena’ 319 Melissa 14, 329 ‘Vintage Wine’ 336
Lysimachia 16, 22, 319–321 officinalis 329 ‘Violet Queen’ 336
atropurpurea 321 o. ‘All Gold’ 329 Morina 15, 336–337
ciliata 321 o. ‘Aurea’ (‘Variegata’) 329 longifolia 336, 337
c. ‘Firecracker’ (‘Purpurea’) 113, Mertensia 12, 330 Mukdenia (Aceriphyllum) 16, 31, 32,
304, 321, 433, 462 maritima 330 337–338
clethroides 321 sibirica (pterocarpa) 330 rossii 337, 338
c. ‘Geisha’ 321 simplicissima (asiatica) 330 r. ‘Crimson Fans’ 338
ephemerum 321, 324, 416, 426 virginica (pulmonarioides) 330 Myosotis 12, 338–339
minoricensis 321 Meum 11, 331 alpestris ‘Gold ’n’ Sapphires’ 339
nummularia 321, 497 athamanticum 331 sylvatica 339
n. ‘Aurea’ 4, 51, 321, 333, 350, 410, Mimulus 16, 332–333 s. ‘Victoria Blue’ 339
426 guttatus (langsdorfii) 333 s. ‘Victoria Rose’ 339
punctata 131, 321 g. ‘Richard Bish’ 333 s. ‘White’ 339
p. ‘Alexander’ (‘Variegata’) 320, lewisii 332, 333 Myrrhis 11, 340
321 luteus 333 odorata 340
p. ‘Golden Alexander’ 321 ringens 333
Macleaya 15, 18, 22, 29, 322–323 Monarda 14, 17, 333–336 Nectaroscordum 11, 341
cordata 8, 29, 98, 322, 323 ‘Adam’ 334 siculum (Allium siculum) 341,
microcarpa 323 ‘Aquarius’ 334 414
m. ‘Kelway’s Coral Plume’ 323 ‘Beauty of Cobham’ 334 s. subsp. bulgaricum (Allium
Malva 15, 323–324 ‘Blaustrumpf’ (‘Blue Stocking’) bulgaricum) 341
alcea 324 334 Nepeta 14, 17, 32, 342–344
a. var. fastigiata 324 ‘Cambridge Scarlet’ 334 cataria 343
moschata 324 ‘Cherokee’ 335 c. ‘Citriodora’ 343
m. f. alba 324 ‘Croftway Pink’ 335 ‘Dropmore’ 343
m. rosea 324 ‘Dark Ponticum’ 335 ×faassenii 343

Index 535
×f. ‘Blue Wonder’ 344 j. ‘Silver Mist’ 350 l. ‘Shirley Temple’ 356
govaniana 344 j. ‘Super Dwarf’ 350 l. ‘Solange’ 356
grandiflora ‘Dawn to Dusk’ 344 j. ‘Torafu’ 350 l. ‘Sorbet’ 356
g. ‘Pool Bank’ 344 planiscapus 350 l. ‘White Wings’ 356
nervosa 344 p. ‘Nigrescens’ (‘Arabicus’) 288, mascula 356
‘Porzellan’ 344 349, 350, 410, 476 m. subsp. triternata (daurica) 356
racemosa (mussinii, Origanum 14, 32, 351–353 mlokosewitschii 354, 356
reichenbachiana) 344 ‘Barbara Tingey’ 351, 352 obovata 356
r. ‘Walker’s Low’ 342, 344 calcaratum (tournefortii) 352 officinalis 356
sibirica (macrantha) 225, 343, ×hybridinum (pulchellum) 352 o. ‘Rosea Plena’ 356
344, 369 ‘Kent Beauty’ 352 o. ‘Rubra Plena’ 356
s. ‘Souvenir d’André Chaudron’ laevigatum 352 ‘Smouthii’ 356
(‘Blue Beauty’) 344 l. ‘Herrenhausen’ 352 tenuifolia 356
‘Six Hills Giant’ 318, 344, 357, 486 l. ‘Hopleys’ 352 t. ‘Plena’ 356
subsessilis 344 l. ‘Silver Anniversary’ 352 t. ‘Rosea’ 356
tuberosa 344, 369 libanoticum 352 veitchii 356
majoricum ‘White Anniversary’ ‘Yellow Crown’ 356
Oenanthe 11, 345 352 Papaver 15, 357–359
javanica ‘Flamingo’ 345 ‘Norton Gold’ 352 atlanticum 26, 308, 358
Oenothera 15, 346–347 ‘Rosenkuppel’ 352 orientale 26, 62, 132, 358
fruticosa (linearis) 347 rotundifolium 353 o. ‘Allegro’ 358
f. ‘Fyrverkeri’ (‘Fireworks’) 347 ‘Santa Cruz’ 353 o. var. bracteatum 358
f. subsp. glauca (tetragona) 347 vulgare 353 o. ‘Brilliant’ 358
f. subsp. glauca ‘Erica Robin’ 347 v. ‘Aureum’ 353 o. ‘Cedar Hill’ 358
f. subsp. glauca ‘Sonnenwende’ v. ‘Aureum Crispum’ 353 o. Goliath Group 358
347 v. ‘Compactum’ 353 o. Goliath Group ‘Beauty of
laciniata (mexicana) 347 v. ‘Gold Tip’ (‘Variegatum’) 353 Livermere’ 358
macrocarpa (missouriensis) 347 v. ‘Thumble’s Variety’ 353 o. ‘Harvest Moon’ 358
odorata 347 o. ‘Helen Elisabeth’ 359
rosea 347 Paeonia 15, 26, 353–356 o. ‘Mrs. Perry’ 359
speciosa 347, 369 ‘Buckeye Belle’ 354 o. ‘Patty’s Plum’ 357, 359
s. ‘Rosea’ (berlandieri) 347 emodi 354 o. ‘Perry’s White’ 359
s. ‘Siskiyou’ 347 ‘Flame’ 354 o. ‘Picotee’ 359
s. ‘Woodside White’ 346, 347 lactiflora 354 o. ‘Pinnacle’ 359
versicolor ‘Sunset Boulevard’ 32, l. ‘Bowl of Beauty’ 355 o. ‘Prince of Orange’ 359
347 l. ‘Duchesse de Nemours’ 355 o. ‘Prinzessin Victoria Louise’
Omphalodes 12, 17, 348–349 l. ‘Edulis Superba’ 355 359
cappadocica 8, 348 l. ‘Félix Crousse’ 355 o. ‘Queen Alexandra’ 359
c. ‘Alba’ 349 l. ‘Festiva Maxima’ 355 o. ‘Raspberry Queen’ 359
c. ‘Lilac Mist’ 349 l. ‘Inspecteur Lavergne’ 355 o. ‘Salmon Glow’ 359
c. ‘Starry Eyes’ 348, 349 l. ‘Kansas’ 355 o. ‘Türkenlouis’ 359
verna 349, 349 l. ‘Karl Rosenfield’ 355 o. ‘Watermelon’ 359
v. ‘Alba’ 349 l. ‘Kelway’s Glorious’ 355 o. ‘Wunderkind’ 359
Ophiopogon 13, 349–350 l. ‘Lady Alexander Duff’ 355 pilosum 359
japonicus 350 l. ‘Laura Dessert’ 355 Parahebe 16, 360
j. ‘Compactus’ 350 l. ‘Monsieur Jules Elie’ 355 perfoliata (Veronica perfoliata)
j. ‘Gyoku Ryu’ 350 l. ‘Monsieur Martin Cahuzac’ 355 155, 360
j. ‘Minor’ 350 l. ‘Peter Brand’ 355
j. ‘Shiroshima Ryu’ 350 l. ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ 355

536 Index
Paris 16, 18, 22, 361 ‘Schoenholzeri’ (‘Ruby’) 365, 367 Phlox 16, 376–380
polyphylla 361 ‘Sour Grapes’ 367 ×arendsii ‘Anja’ 377
quadrifolia 361 ‘Stapleford Gem’ 367 ×a. ‘Hilda’ 377
verticillata 361 ‘Thorn’ 367 ×a. ‘Ping Pong’ 377
Patrinia 16, 19, 362 ‘Wisley Pink’ 367 ×a. Spring Pearl Series ‘Miss Jill’
gibbosa 363 Perovskia 14, 26, 368–369 377
scabiosifolia 363 atriplicifolia 368, 369 ×a. Spring Pearl Series ‘Miss
s. ‘Nagoya’ 25, 363 ‘Blue Spire’ 369 Jo-Ellen’ 377
triloba 363 ‘Filigran’ 369 ×a. Spring Pearl Series ‘Miss
villosa 362, 363 ‘Longin’ 369 Karen’ 377
Peltoboykinia 18, 363–364 Persicaria 16, 17, 18, 370–372 ×a. Spring Pearl Series ‘Miss
tellimoides 364 affinis 371 Margie’ 377
watanabei 104, 363, 364 a. ‘Border Jewel’ 371 ×a. Spring Pearl Series ‘Miss
Penstemon 16, 17, 18, 32, 228, a. ‘Darjeeling Red’ 372 Mary’ 378
364–367 a. ‘Superba’ (‘Dimity’) 372 ×a. Spring Pearl Series ‘Miss
‘Alice Hindley’ 365 amplexicaulis 372, 422, 433 Wilma’ 378
‘Andenken an Friedrich Hahn’ a. ‘Alba’ 372 ×a. ‘Suzanne’ 378
(‘Garnet’) 365 a. ‘Atrosanguinea’ 372 carolina ‘Bill Baker’ 378
‘Apple Blossom’ 365 a. ‘Firetail’ 371, 372 c. ‘Magnificence’ 378
barbatus 366 a. ‘Rosea’ 370, 372 c. ‘Miss Lingard’ 378
b. ‘Elfin Pink’ 366 a. ‘Taurus’ 372 divaricata 378
‘Bev Jensen’ 366 bistorta 372 d. ‘Blue Perfume’ 378
‘Blackbird’ 366 b. ‘Superba’ 372 d. ‘Clouds of Perfume’ 378
campanulatus 366 campanulata (Polygonum d. ‘Dirigo Ice’ 378
‘Crystal’ 366 campanulatum) 372 d. ‘Fuller’s White’ 378
digitalis ‘Husker Red’ 19, 366 microcephala ‘Red Dragon’ 18, d. subsp. laphamii 378
‘Elizabeth Cozzens’ 366 372, 382 d. subsp. laphamii
‘Evelyn’ 366 polymorpha 372 ‘Chattahoochee’ 378
‘Grape Tart’ 366 virginiana (filiformis) 372 d. ‘London Grove’ 378
hartwegii 366 v. ‘Lance Corporal’ 372 d. ‘Louisiana Purple’ 378
heterophyllus ‘Catherine de la v. Variegata Group ‘Painter’s d. ‘Plum Perfect’ 378
Mare’ 200, 366 Palette’ 98, 372 d. ‘White Perfume’ 378
‘Hidcote Pink’ 366 Petasites 11, 26, 373–374 maculata 378
hirsutus var. pygmaeus 366 frigidus var. palmatus 374 m. ‘Alpha’ 379
‘Holly’s White’ 366 f. var. palmatus ‘Golden Palms’ m. ‘Natascha’ 379
‘Hopley’s Variegated’ 366 374 m. ‘Omega’ 379
‘Huntington Pink’ 366 hybridus 374 m. ‘Rosalinde’ 18, 19, 26, 89, 100,
‘Midnight’ 367 japonicus var. giganteus 373, 374 144, 200, 324, 379, 492, 494
‘Mother of Pearl’ 367 j. var. giganteus ‘Nishiki-buki’ paniculata 379
‘Papal Purple’ 367 (‘Variegatus’) 374 p. ‘Amethyst’ 379
pinifolius 367 Phlomis 14, 374–375 p. ‘Blue Boy’ 379
p. ‘Mersea Yellow’ 367 cashmeriana 375 p. ‘Brigadier’ 379
‘Prairie Dusk’ 367 fruticosa 375 p. ‘Bright Eyes’ 29, 379
‘Prairie Fire’ 367 italica 375 p. ‘David’ 379
‘Raspberry Flair’ 367 russeliana 375 p. ‘Dodo Hanbury-Forbes’ 379
‘Raven’ 367 samia 375 p. ‘Duesterlohe’ (‘Nicky’) 379
‘Rich Ruby’ 367 tuberosa 375 p. ‘Eva Cullum’ 379
‘Scharlachkönigin’ (‘Scarlet t. ‘Amazone’ 375 p. ‘Fairest One’ 379
Queen’) 367 p. ‘Fairy’s Petticoat’ 379

Index 537
p. ‘Franz Schubert’ 379 v. ‘Summer Snow’ (‘Snow Queen’) pauciflorum 396

p. ‘Harlequin’ 379 386 reptans 396
p. ‘Juliet’ 379 v. ‘Vivid’ 386 r. ‘Blue Pearl’ 396
p. ‘Little Boy’ 379 Phytolacca 15, 386–387 yezoense ‘Purple Rain’ 396
p. ‘Miss Elie’ 379 acinosa 387 Polygonatum 13, 18, 19, 22, 396–398
p. ‘Miss Holland’ 379 americana (decandra) 19, 22, 28, biflorum (commutatum) 397
p. ‘Miss Kelly’ 380 387 b. polyploid 397
p. ‘Miss Pepper’ 380 polyandra (clavigera) 387 curvistylum 397
p. ‘Miss Universe’ 380 Pimpinella 11, 17, 388 falcatum 397
p. ‘Mount Fuji’ (‘Fujiyama’) 376, major ‘Rosea’ 388 humile 84, 397, 418
380 Pinellia 11, 22, 389 ×hybridum (multiflorum) 397
p. ‘Norah Leigh’ 380 cordata 389 ×h. ‘Striatum’ 18, 397
p. ‘Prime Minister’ 380 pedatisecta 389 odoratum ( japonicum) 398
p. ‘Prince of Orange’ (‘Orange ternata 389 o. var. pluriflorum ‘Variegatum’
Perfection’) 380 tripartita 389 (falcatum ‘Variegatum’) 397,
p. ‘Starfire’ 380 Plantago 15, 30, 390–391 398
p. ‘Tenor’ 380 major ‘Rosularis’ (‘Bowles’ verticillatum ‘Rubrum’ 398
p. ‘The King’ 380 Variety’) 391 Potentilla 16, 17, 398–399
p. ‘White Admiral’ 380 m. ‘Rubrifolia’ (‘Atropurpurea’) atrosanguinea 398, 399
p. ‘Windsor’ 380 34, 390, 391 a. var. argyrophylla 399
Phuopsis 16, 380–381 Platycodon 12, 391–393 ‘Emilie’ 399
stylosa 381 grandiflorus 391, 392 ‘Flamenco’ 399
Phygelius 16, 18, 381–383 g. ‘Albus’ 392 ‘Gibson’s Scarlet’ 399
aequalis 382 g. ‘Fuji Blue’ 392 ‘Melton Fire’ 399
a. Sensation = ‘Sani Pass’ 382 g. ‘Fuji Pink’ 392 nepalensis 399
a. ‘Trewidden Pink’ 120, 376, 383 g. ‘Fuji White’ 392 n. ‘Miss Willmott’ (willmottiae)
a. ‘Yellow Trumpet’ 382, 383 g. ‘Hakone Double Blue’ 392 399
capensis 383 g. ‘Hakone White’ 392 n. ‘Ron McBreath’ 399
New Sensation = ‘Blaphy’ 383 g. ‘Komachi’ 392 recta 399
×rectus ‘African Queen’ 383 g. ‘Mariesii’ 393 r. var. sulphurea 280, 399
×r. ‘Devil’s Tears’ 20, 383 g. ‘Perlmutterschale’ (‘Mother of ×tonguei 399
×r. ‘Moonraker’ 383 Pearl’, ‘Shell Pink’) 393 ‘William Rollison’ 399
×r. ‘Pink Elf’ 383 g. ‘Sentimental Blue’ 393 Primula 8, 16, 17, 31, 32, 400–404
×r. ‘Salmon Leap’ 383 Podophyllum 12, 18, 393–394 ‘Alan Robb’ 401
×r. ‘Winchester Fanfare’ 25, 383 hexandrum (emodi) 394 ‘Alejandra’ (‘Alexandra’) 401
Physalis 16, 383–384 ‘Kaleidoscope’ 394 alpicola 402
alkekengi 384 peltatum 394 ‘April Rose’ 402
a. var. franchetii 384 pleianthum 8, 393, 394 auricula 402
a. var. franchetii ‘Gigantea’ 384 Polemonium 16, 17, 394–396 Barnhaven Hybrids 402
a. var. franchetii ‘Variegata’ 384 ‘Bressingham Purple’ 395 beesiana 26, 117, 402, 478
peruviana 32, 384 caeruleum 395 ×bulleesiana 26, 402, 478
Physostegia 14, 17, 385–386 c. ‘Brise d’Anjou’ 395 bulleyana 26, 402, 478
virginiana 385 c. subsp. caeruleum f. album 395 capitata 402
v. ‘Alba’ 385 carneum 395 c. subsp. mooreana 402
v. ‘Miss Manners’ 386 c. ‘Apricot Delight’ (ambervicsii ‘Cowichan’ 402
v. ‘Rosea’ 386 ‘Apricot Beauty’) 395 ‘Dawn Ansell’402
v. var. speciosa ‘Bouquet Rose’ foliosissimum 395 denticulata 402
386 ‘Lambrook Mauve’ 395 ‘Dorothy’ 402
v. var. speciosa ‘Variegata’ 386 ‘Northern Lights’ 396 elatior 402
florindae 117, 333, 402

538 Index
[Primula] o. ‘Blue Mist’ (‘Blue Moon’, Rodgersia 16, 18, 19, 414–416
‘Francesca’ 403 ‘Bowles’ Blue’) 407 aesculifolia 415
Gold-laced Group 403 ‘Purple Haze’ 407 henrici 415
‘Granny Graham’ 403 ‘Roy Davidson’ 405, 407 pinnata 415
‘Guinevere’ 403 rubra 407 p. ‘Elegans’ 414, 416
Jack in the Green Group 403 r. ‘Barfield Pink’ 407 p. ‘Superba’ 416
japonica 26, 98, 117, 162, 364, 403, r. ‘David Ward’ 407 podophylla 416
414, 422, 478 r. ‘Redstart’ 407 p. ‘Bronze Form’ 416
j. ‘Miller’s Crimson’ 403 saccharata (saccharata ‘Picta’) sambucifolia 416
j. ‘Postford White’ 403 407 Romneya 15, 26, 416–417
juliae 403 s. ‘Dora Bielefeld’ 407 coulteri 417
‘Ken Dearman’ 403 s. ‘Mrs. Moon’ 407 c. ‘Butterfly’ 417
kisoana 403 s. ‘Pink Dawn’ 407 c. ‘White Cloud’ 417
‘Lilian Harvey’ 403 ‘Sissinghurst White’ 407 Roscoea 16, 418
‘Marie Crousse’ 403 ‘Smoky Blue’ 407 alpina 418
‘Miss Indigo’ 403 ‘Spilled Milk’ 407 cautleyoides 418
polyanthus 403 ‘Victorian Brooch’ 407 c. ‘Kew Beauty’ 418
pulverulenta 241, 400, 403 Pulsatilla 16, 408–409 purpurea 418
‘Red Velvet’ 404 vulgaris 408, 409 Rudbeckia 11, 18, 28, 419–420
‘Roy Cope’ 404 v. ‘Alba’ 409 fulgida 420
sieboldii 404 v. subsp. grandis ‘Papageno’ 409 f. var. sullivantii ‘Goldsturm’ 4,
‘Sue Jervis’ 404 v. var. rubra 409 25, 153, 206, 419, 420
‘Sunshine Susie’ 404 Ranunculus 16, 409–411 laciniata 420
‘Val Horncastle’ 404 aconitifolius ‘Flore Pleno’ 410 l. ‘Goldquelle’ (‘Golden
‘Velvet Moon’ 404 acris 410 Fountain’) 420
veris 404 constantinopolitanus ‘Plenus’ 411 l. ‘Herbstsonne’ (‘Autumn Sun’)
vialii 404 ficaria 17, 43, 63, 112, 151, 350, 406, 420
vulgaris (acaulis) 404 411, 497 maxima 420
v. ‘Lilacina Plena’ (‘Quaker’s f. var. aurantiacus (cupreus) 411 occidentalis ‘Black Beauty’ 420
Bonnet’) 348, 404 f. ‘Brambling’ 411 o. ‘Green Wizard’ 223, 420
‘Wanda’ 404 f. ‘Brazen Hussy’ 411 triloba 420
Pulmonaria 12, 18, 30, 405–407 f. ‘Collarette’ (‘E. A. Bowles’) 411 Rumex 16, 19, 421–422
angustifolia 17, 406, 484 f. ‘Coppernob’ 411 hydrolapathum 421
a. ‘Blaues Meer’ 406 f. ‘Double Mud’ 111, 411 sanguineus var. sanguineus 327,
‘Benediction’ 406 f. flore-pleno 411 421
‘Berries and Cream’ 406 f. ‘Green Petal’ 410, 411 scutatus ‘Silver Shield’ 421
‘DeVroomen’s Pride’ 406 f. ‘Primrose’ 411 Salvia 14, 17, 26, 32, 422–424
‘Excalibur’ 406 f. ‘Randall’s White’ 111, 411 argentea 423
‘Lewis Palmer’ (‘Highdown’) 406 repens ‘Buttered Popcorn’ 411 azurea 423
‘Little Star’ 406 r. var. pleniflorus 411 a. var. grandiflora 423
longifolia 406 Rehmannia 16, 412 forsskaolii 423
l. ‘Bertram Anderson’ 400, 406 elata (angulata) 412 guaranitica 18, 103, 108, 144, 423
l. subsp. cevennensis 8, 406 Rheum 16, 19, 413 g. ‘Argentine Skies’ 423
‘Majesté’ 406 ‘Ace of Hearts’ (‘Ace of Spades’) g. ‘Black and Blue’ 423
‘Margery Fish’ 406 413 g. ‘Blue Enigma’ 423
‘Mawson’s Blue’ 407 australe (emodi) 413 ‘Indigo Spires’ 423
‘Milchstrasse’ (‘Milky Way’) 407 palmatum 413 nemorosa 22, 316, 423
‘Mrs. Kittle’ 407 p. ‘Atrosanguineum’ 413 n. ‘Amethyst’ 424
officinalis 407 p. var. tanguticum 413 n. ‘Lubecca’ 424

Index 539
n. ‘Ostfriesland’ 424 c. ‘Clive Greaves’ 430 t. ‘Arthur Branch’ 436

n. ‘Pusztaflamme’ (‘Plumosa’) c. ‘Fama’ 430 t. ‘Matrona’ 436
424 c. House’s Hybrids 430 t. subsp. maximum ‘Atro-
nipponica ‘Fuji Snow’ 424 c. ‘Kompliment’ 430 purpureum’ 190, 436
pratensis 424 c. Perfecta Series 430 t. subsp. maximum ‘Gooseberry
p. ‘Indigo’ 424 c. ‘Perfecta Alba’ 430, 431 Fool’ 436
‘Purple Majesty’ 424 c. ‘Miss Willmott’431 t. ‘Mohrchen’ 158, 436
×superba 316, 358, 424 columbaria (banatica) 431 t. ‘Munstead Red’ 436
×sylvestris 14, 424 c. subsp. ochroleuca 61, 308, 325, t. subsp. ruprechtii (‘Eleanor
×s. ‘Blauhügel’ (‘Blue Hill’) 424 431, 444 Fisher’) 158, 436, 447
×s. ‘Mainacht’ (‘May Night’) 424 lucida 431 t. ‘Variegatum’ 436
×s. ‘Rose Queen’ 424 ‘Pink Mist’ 431 ‘Vera Jameson’ 436
×s. ‘Schneehügel’ (‘Snow Hill’) Schizostylis 14, 431–432 Semiaquilegia 16, 437
424 coccinea 432 ecalcarata (simulatrix) 437
×s. ‘Viola Klose’ 424 c. f. alba 432 e. ‘Flore Pleno’ 437
uliginosa 18, 422, 424 c. ‘Cherry Red’ 432 Sidalcea 15, 438–439
verticillata 424 c. ‘Fenland Daybreak’ 432 ‘Brilliant’ 438
v. ‘Purple Rain’ 424 c. ‘Jennifer’ 432 candida 438
Sanguinaria 15, 425 c. ‘Major’ (‘Gigantea’, c. ‘Bianca’ 438
canadensis 425 ‘Grandiflora’) 431, 432 ‘Elsie Heugh’ 438
c. f. multiplex (‘Flore Pleno’) 425 c. ‘Mrs. Hegarty’ 432 malviflora 439
c. f. multiplex ‘Plena’ 425 c. ‘Oregon Sunset’ 432 ‘Party Girl’ 438, 439
Sanguisorba 16, 426 c. ‘Pallida’ 432 ‘Rose Queen’ 439
canadensis 426 c. ‘Snow Maiden’ 432 Silene 13, 439–440
obtusa 426 c. ‘Sunrise’ (‘Sunset’) 432 dioica 440
officinalis 426 c. ‘Viscountess Byng’ 432 d. ‘Clifford Moor’ 439, 440
‘Tanna’ 426 Scrophularia 16, 433 d. ‘Flore Pleno’ 440
tenuifolia 426 auriculata ‘Variegata’ 433 d. ‘Graham’s Delight’ (‘Variegata’)
t. ‘Alba’ 426 Sedum 13, 22, 26, 28, 31, 32, 434–436 440
Saponaria 13, 427 ‘Bertram Anderson’ 435 d. ‘Inane’ 440
×lempergii ‘Max Frei’ 427 erythrostictum 435 schafta 440
ocymoides 427 e. ‘Frosty Morn’ 435 uniflora ‘Druett’s Variegated’ 440
officinalis 17, 427 e. ‘Mediovariegatum’ 435 Silphium 11, 19, 440–441
o. ‘Alba Plena’ 427 ‘Herbstfreude’ (‘Autumn Joy’) laciniatum 441
o. ‘Rosea Plena’ 427 110, 206, 435 perfoliatum 441
o. ‘Rubra Plena’ 427 ‘Ruby Glow’ 435 Silybum 11, 442
Saxifraga 16, 428–429 sieboldii 435 marianum 442
cortusifolia 429 s. ‘Mediovariegatum’ Sisyrinchium 14, 443–444
fortunei 429 (‘Variegatum’) 435 ‘Biscutella’ 444
primuloides 429 spectabile 18, 435 ‘California Skies’ 444
stolonifera (sarmentosa) 337, 428, s. ‘Brilliant’ 434, 436 californicum 444
429 s. ‘Carmen’ 436 ‘E. K. Balls’ 444
umbrosa 429 s. ‘Iceberg’ 436 idahoense var. bellum 444
×urbium 17, 429 s. ‘Indian Chief’ 436 ‘Marion’ 444
×u. ‘Variegata’ 429 s. ‘Meteor’ 436 ‘Mrs. Spivey’ 444
Scabiosa 13, 17, 429–431 s. ‘Septemberglut’ (‘September ‘Pole Star’ 444
‘Butterfly Blue’ 430 Glow’) 436 ‘Quaint and Queer’ 443, 444
caucasica 430 s. ‘Stardust’ 436 striatum 131, 176, 316, 423, 444,
c. var. alba 430 telephium 436 451,
s. ‘Aunt May’ (‘Variegatum’) 444

540 Index
Smilacina 13, 18, 19, 22, 444–445 l. ‘Klaus Jelitto’ 454 a. var. album 465
racemosa 81, 44, 445 l. ‘Mary Gregory’ 454 a. ‘Thundercloud’ 465
stellata 445 l. ‘Purple Parasols’ 454 delavayi (dipterocarpum) 465
Solidago 11, 18, 446–447 l. ‘Silver Moon’ 453, 454 d. ‘Album’ 465
canadensis 447 l. ‘Wyoming’ 454 d. ‘Hewitt’s Double’ 320, 465
‘Cloth of Gold’ 447 Strobilanthes 11, 455 ‘Elin’ 465
‘Crown of Rays’ 447 attenuata (atropurpureus) 455 flavum 465
flexicaulis (latifolia) 447 Stylophorum 15, 18, 456–457 f. subsp. glaucum
f. ‘Variegata’ 447 diphyllum 456, 457 (speciosissimum) 465
‘Golden Baby’ (‘Goldkind’) 446, lasiocarpum 457 isopyroides 465
447 Symphytum 12, 457–458 kiusianum 465
‘Goldenmosa’ 447 ‘Belsay Gold’ 458 lucidum (angustifolium) 19, 465
‘Golden Spangles’ 447 caucasicum 458 minus 465
‘Golden Wings’ 447 ‘Goldsmith’ 458 m. ‘Adiantifolium’ 465
‘Queenie’ (‘Golden Thumb’) 447 ‘Hidcote Blue’ 458 rochebruneanum 465
rugosa 447 ‘Hidcote Pink’ (‘Roseum’) 458 Thermopsis 15, 466–467
r. ‘Fireworks’ 447 ‘Hidcote Variegated’ 458 lanceolata 466, 467
sphacelata ‘Golden Fleece’ 447 ibericum (grandiflorum) 458 rhombifolia var. montana 467
virgaurea 447 i. ‘Blaueglocken’ 458 villosa (caroliniana) 467
×Solidaster 11, 18, 448–449 ‘Rubrum’ 458 Tiarella 16, 22, 31, 467–469
luteus (hybridus) 79, 449 ×uplandicum 458 cordifolia 468
l. ‘Lemore’ 448, 449 ×u. ‘Axminster Gold’ 457, 458 c. ‘Oakleaf’ 467, 468
‘Super’ 449 ×u. ‘Variegatum’ 458 c. ‘Running Tapestry’ 468
Spigelia 15, 449–450 Syneilesis 11, 459 c. ‘Slick Rock’ 468
marilandica 449, 450 aconitifolia 459 ‘Cygnet’ 468
Stachys 14, 17, 450–453 palmata 459 ‘Dark Eyes’ 468
albotomentosa (‘Hidalgo’) 452 Tanacetum 11, 460–461 ‘Dunvegan’ 468
byzantina (lanata, olympica) 22, coccineum 32, 327, 461 ‘Filigree Lace’ 468
136, 308, 451, 489 c. ‘Duro’ 461 ‘Inkblot’ 468
b. ‘Big Ears’ (‘Countess Helen von c. ‘James Kelway’ 461 ‘Iron Butterfly’ 468
Stein’) 400, 452 c. ‘Robinson’s Red’ 461 ‘Mint Chocolate’ 468
b. ‘Cotton Boll’ (‘Sheila c. ‘Robinson’s Rose’ 461 ‘Ninja’ 468
McQueen’) 452 niveum 461 ‘Pink Bouquet’ 468
b. ‘Primrose Heron’ 452 parthenium 17, 461 polyphylla 468
b. ‘Silver Carpet’ 452 p. ‘Aureum’ 12, 30, 460, 461, 486 p. ‘Filigran’ 468
b. ‘Striped Phantom’ (‘Variegata’) p. double white 461 ‘Skeleton Key’ 468
452 p. ‘Golden Ball’ 461 ‘Spring Symphony’ 468
coccinea 452 p. ‘Plenum’ 461 ‘Tiger Stripe’ 468
macrantha (grandiflora, spicata) p. ‘Rowallane’ (‘Sissinghurst wherryi 468
142, 453 White’) 461 w. ‘Heronswood Mist’ 469
m. ‘Robusta’ 453 Telekia 11, 461–462 Tolmiea 16, 18, 26, 32, 469–470
m. ‘Rosea’ 453 speciosa 462 menziesii 469, 470
m. ‘Superba’ 453 Tellima 16, 22, 26, 31, 32, 462–463 m. ‘Taff’s Gold’ 470
monieri (densiflora) 453 grandiflora 463 Tradescantia 13, 17, 26, 470–472
Stokesia 11, 453–454 g. ‘Forest Frost’ 463 Andersoniana Group 471
laevis (cyanea) 454 g. Odorata Group 463 A. ‘Bilberry Ice’ 471
l. ‘Alba’ 454 g. Rubra Group (‘Purpurea’) 463 A. ‘Blue and Gold’ 471
l. ‘Blue Danube’ 454 Thalictrum 16, 17, 19, 464–465 A. ‘Blue Stone’ 471
l. ‘Blue Star’ 454 aquilegifolium 465 A. ‘Charlotte’ 471

Index 541
A. ‘Chedglow’ 471 repens ‘Green Ice’ (‘Ice Cool’) Verbascum 16, 19, 32, 485–487
A. ‘Concord Grape’ 471 475 bombyciferum 487
A. ‘Innocence’ 471 r. ‘Purpurascens’ 475 b. ‘Polarsommer’ (‘Arctic
A. ‘Iris Prichard’ 471 r. ‘Purpurascens Quadrifolium’ Summer’) 487
A. ‘Isis’ 471 475 ‘Caribbean Crush’ 487
A. ‘J. C. Weguelin’ 471 Trillium 16, 18, 22, 476–478 chaixii 487
A. ‘Leonora’ 471 catesbyi (stylosum) 477 c. ‘Album’ 58, 485, 487
A. ‘Little Doll’ 471 cernuum 477 Cotswold Group ‘Cotswold
A. ‘Osprey’ 472 chloropetalum 477 Queen’ 487
A. ‘Pauline’ 472 erectum 477 Cotswold Group ‘Gainsborough’
A. ‘Purple Dome’ 472 e. f. luteum 477 487
A. ‘Red Grape’ 472 grandiflorum 477 Cotswold Group ‘Pink Domino’
A. ‘Rubra’ 472 luteum (sessile var. luteum) 477 487
A. ‘Snowcap’ 472 ovatum 478 Cotswold Group ‘White Domino’
A. ‘Sweet Kate’ 472 rivale 478 487
A. ‘Valour’ 472 sessile 478 ‘Helen Johnson’ 487
A. ‘Zwanenburg Blue’ 472 vaseyi 478 ‘Jackie’ 487
‘Hawaiian Punch’ 472 viride 478 nigrum 487
‘Purple Profusion’ 472 Trollius 16, 26, 478–480 phoeniceum 487
‘Red Cloud’ 472 chinensis (ledebourii) 479 ‘Raspberry Ripple’ 487
virginiana 472 c. ‘Golden Queen’ 479 ‘Southern Charm’ 487
v. ‘Rubra’ 472 ×cultorum ‘Alabaster’ 479 ‘Summer Sorbet’ 487
Tricyrtis 13, 18, 472–474 ×c. ‘Cheddar’ 479 thapsus 486, 487
formosana 473 ×c. ‘Earliest of All’ 479 wiedemannianum 487
f. ‘Amethystina’ 473 ×c. ‘Etna’ 479 Verbena 16, 488–490
f. ‘Dark Beauty’ 473 ×c. ‘Lemon Queen’ 479 bonariensis (patagonica) 27, 88,
f. ‘Gates of Heaven’ 473 ×c. ‘Orange Princess’ 480 305, 488, 489
f. ‘Gilt Edge’ 473 ×c. ‘Prichard’s Giant’ 480 canadensis 489
f. ‘Samurai’ 473 ×c. ‘Superbus’ 480 hastata 490
f. Stolonifera Group 473 ×c. ‘T. Smith’ 480 h. ‘Alba’ 490
f. ‘Variegata’ 474 europaeus 480 ‘Homestead Purple’ 490
hirta 474 pumilus 480 peruviana 490
h. ‘Alba’ 474 yunnanensis 479, 480 rigida (venosa) 490
h. ‘Albomarginata’ 474 Tropaeolum 16, 480–481 r. ‘Polaris’ 490
h. ‘Golden Gleam’ 474 polyphyllum 481 ‘Silver Anne’ 490
h. ‘Miyazaki’ 473, 474 speciosum 415, 481 Vernonia 11, 19, 490–491
h. ‘Moonlight’ 474 tuberosum 481 crinita 491
h. ‘Variegata’ 474 t. var. lineamaculatum ‘Ken Aslet’ fasciculata 491
‘Hototogisu’ 474 481 noveboracensis 490, 491
‘Kohaku’ 474 Uvularia 13, 18, 482 Veronica 16, 17, 491–494
latifolia (bakeri) 474 grandiflora 482 allioni 492
macrantha 474 perfoliata 482 austriaca subsp. teucrium 492
macropoda (dilatata) 474 sessilifolia 482 a. ‘Crater Lake Blue’ 492
maculata 474 Valeriana 16, 483–484 a. ‘Royal Blue’ 492
‘Shimone’ 474 officinalis 484 chamaedrys 492
‘Tojen’ 474 phu ‘Aurea’ 483, 484 c. ‘Miffy Brute’ 493
‘White Towers’ 474 Vancouveria 12, 26, 484–485 gentianoides 493
Trifolium 15, 475–476 chrysantha 485 g. ‘Pallida’ 493
pratense ‘Susan Smith’ (‘Gold hexandra 484, 485 g. ‘Variegata’ 493
Net’) 475 planipetala 81, 485 ‘Giles Van Hees’ 493

542 Index
[Veronica] v. ‘Apollo’ 495 ‘Rosine’ 498

‘Goodness Grows’ 493 v. ‘Fascination’ 495 ‘Royal Robe’ 499
longifolia 493 v. f. roseum 495 sempervirens 499
l. ‘Blauriesin’ 493 v. f. roseum ‘Pink Glow’ 495 sororia 499
peduncularis 493 v. ‘Spring Dew’ 495 s. ‘Albiflora’ 499
p. ‘Georgia Blue’ (‘Oxford Blue’) Viola 16, 17, 18, 496–499 s. ‘Freckles’ 499
17, 391, 484, 492, 493 adunca 26, 497 s. ‘Priceana’ 499
prostrata (rupestris, austriaca ‘Columbine’ 497 tricolor 499
var. dubia) 493 cornuta 74, 172, 428, 497 ‘White Czar’ 499
p. ‘Heavenly Blue’ 493 c. ‘Barford Blue’ 497 Zantedeschia 11, 22, 32, 499–501
p. ‘Mrs. Holt’ 493 c. ‘Black Magic’ 497 aethiopica 501
p. ‘Trehane’ 493 cucullata 497 a. ‘Crowborough’ 500, 501
repens (reptans) 493 ‘Dancing Geisha’ 497 a. ‘Green Goddess’ 501
r. ‘Sunshine’ 493 ‘Desdemona’ 496, 497 albomaculata 501
‘Shirley Blue’ 493 dissecta 497 ‘Black Magic’ 501
spicata 493 ‘Etain’ 497 ‘Cameo’ 501
s. ‘Blaufuchs’ (‘Blue Fox’) 494 glabella 497 ‘Deep Throat’ 501
s. ‘Heidekind’ 494 ‘Irish Molly’ 498 elliottiana 501
s. ‘Icicle’ (‘White Icicle’) 494 ‘Königin Charlotte’ (‘Queen ‘Flame’ 501
s. subsp. incana 494 Charlotte’) 498 ‘Mango’ 501
s. ‘Minuet’ 494 labradorica 498 ‘Pink Persuasion’ 501
s. ‘Nana Blauteppich’ (‘Blue ‘Lianne’ 498 ‘Rubylite’ 501
Carpet’) 494 ‘Lorna Cawthorne’ 498
s. ‘Noah Williams’ 494 ‘Maggie Mott’ 498
s. ‘Rotfuchs’ (‘Red Fox’) 494 ‘Magic’ 498
‘Sunny Border Blue’ 494 odorata 498
‘Waterperry Blue’ 494 o. ‘Alba’ 498
Veronicastrum 16, 494–495 o. Rosea Group 498
sibiricum 495 pedata 498
virginicum 495 pedatifida 498
v. ‘Alboroseum’ 495 ‘Purple Showers’ 498
v. ‘Album’ 495 ‘Rebecca’ 498

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CARTER

MORE THAN 2700 PROVEN SPECIES AND CULTIVARS US$49.95

landscape designer, consultant, and educator, she was one of

Susan Carter Lynne Harrison’s sumptuous photographs.

Carrie Becker or a green-industry professional, Perennials: The Gardener’s

Bob Lilly essential information about these supremely beautiful and

foreword by Ann Lovejoy

Jacket_TP2.indd 1 1/11/07 6:06:47 PM

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Foreword by Ann Lovejoy

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To Mousemilk, Bullslops, and Treacleberries

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

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Foreword by Ann Lovejoy 7

Plant Families and Characteristics 11

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001_032_TP.indd 1306_12_F08 Perennials G5L_09_X-5_CTP 2007/1/13 9:55:03 PM

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THE SUMMER BORDER

THE COTTAGE GARDEN

THE LATE SUMMER BORDER

THE AUTUMN BORDER

THE SHADE BORDER AND THE WOODLAND GARDEN

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THE MEADOW GARDEN

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FERTILIZING General overall fertilizing of perennials should be

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Delphiniums are often deadheaded to the leaves below WINTER CARE

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033_113_TP.indd 3306_12_F08 Perennials G5L_09_X-5_CTP 2007/1/13 10:10:57 PM

A compact, creeping, and usually evergreen perennial

Scientiﬁc Name: From the Greek akaina (“thorn,”

06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G5J No_5

We fear that we cannot be objective in our description of

Scientiﬁc Name: From the Greek akanthos (“thorn,”

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Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 36 12/7/06 6:04:55 PM

Origin: Southeastern Europe, Mediterranean, Asia.

033_113_TP.indd 37 1/10/07 11:24:29 AM

Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 38 12/7/06 6:04:56 PM

Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 39 12/7/06 6:04:56 PM

Aconitum ‘Ivorine’ with Knautia macedonica.

Origin: Russia, China, Europe.

033_113_TP.indd 40 1/10/07 11:25:57 AM

Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 41 12/7/06 6:04:56 PM

Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’ with hellebores.

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Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 45 12/7/06 6:04:57 PM

Bishop’s weed makes a good groundcover. The variegated

Scientiﬁc Name: From the Greek aix (“goat”) and podion

06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G5J No_5

Perennials A-B.indd_TP.indd 47 12/7/06 6:04:57 PM

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06_12_F08 Perennials X_5 CTP Proof G5J No_5

Scientiﬁc Name: Obscure.