Gel Nail Extensions 101: Experts Share Everything You Need to Know

Gel extensions have become increasingly popular for achieving longer and stronger nails. This innovative technique combines the strength and flexibility of gel polish with the added length and shape of nail extensions.

Unlike traditional acrylic nail extensions, which can feel heavy and less natural, gel nail extensions offer a lightweight and natural-looking finish.

This has made them a popular choice among individuals seeking sleek and sculpted nails in recent years. However, like acrylic nails, gel extensions have their pros and cons. While they can last up to four weeks, both extensions are associated with potential damage to the natural nails. Therefore, it's essential to understand the process and proper care for gel extensions before committing.

Below, we delve deep into the world of gel nail extensions, tapping the help of experts to learn more about the technique and its advantages and disadvantages.

What Are Gel Nail Extensions?

Getting gel nail extensions involves painting hard gel over a natural nail and curing the polish with UV light. Then, the manicurist uses a nail form, which is a sticker that goes under the free edge (the tip) of the nail to extend the length of the nail. 

Top manicurists like Davis and Seney also rely on a newer method. "It's an already shaped full soft gel nail tip that you secure on the natural nail with gel," explains Davis. They come in different sizes and shapes, like stiletto, round, coffin, and square. As it doesn't need filling, it's even quicker than the actual gel extension building. "I recommend brands Kiara Sky Gelly Tips and Apres Gel X," says Seney.

The only prerequisite is that your nails can't be bitten to the quick. "For a gel extension, your nail needs to have a little length, not a ton, but just a bit," says Davis. "If your nails are too short, there isn't anything for the extension to stick to."

The Benefits

• Long and strong nails
• Lightweight nail tips
• An easier and quicker removal process
• Safer and healthier than acrylic nails

Drawbacks

• Can weaken nails over time
• Might not work well on too short nails

How Are Gel Nail Extensions Applied?

Whether using pre-shaped gel nail extensions or creating them, the nail technician must first prepare the nails (i.e., file, clean, and buff your nails). Then, the expert applies a form underneath the natural nail to create the length one by one with a gel builder, a gel primer, and a gel top coat, letting them dry under the LED or UV light. If a pre-shaped kit like Apres Gel X is used, Seney explains: "The second step, I use a bonder (this dries your nails) and a primer (this makes your nails sticky) so the gel can stick to it," she says. "All these products come with the kit."

"Third, I apply a layer of gel to the nails and let it dry in light for about 60 seconds," Seney adds. "After choosing which size fits the client's actual nail, I apply the gel to the inside of the gel extension and place it on the actual nail. Now it's time to press down and hold, then sit in the UV light for 60 seconds." Poof! Nails are ready for your favorite polish and nail art.

Gel Nail Extensions vs. Acrylic Nails: What’s the Difference?

The difference between acrylics and gel extensions lies in the polymerization process, ease of removal, and density. "The process of using gel is definitely quicker. There are no strong odors, and you won't have the hassle of filing or dealing with dust," explains Seney. "With acrylic nails, you have to mix a liquid called monomer and a powder (polymer) to mold the artificial nail."

Davis warns that some salons have manicurists upselling their gel extensions when they're really acrylic. "Gel comes in a pot and looks thick like honey; acrylic is a powder. Know the difference," she notes. 

Acrylics tend to be harder than gel, which also means less flexibility. They may also be more damaging to the nail, especially as it's more difficult to remove, requiring soaking in acetone and buffing off. Too much buffing also means thinner nails over time. 

DIY vs. Professional Gel Nail Extensions

While both experts caution that DIYing gel extensions at home is not the best idea (they recommend letting a professional do the work from adhesion to the removal process), several options and kits are available if you'd like to give it a go. If you take the DIY route, expect to spend at least an hour, if not more, and be sure to buy an all-inclusive kit with everything you'll need. Beetles Poly Extension Gel Nail Kit ($30) comes with 48-piece nail forms, a mini lamp, top gel, base gel, a nail file, and nail extension gel in six colors. A much pricier option with less equipment, the ORLY GELFX Builder In A Bottle Intro Kit ($100) includes 100 perfect fit forms, a nail primer, top coat, the Builder in a Bottle application, two nail files, and an instructional insert. The website includes several video tutorials on how to achieve the look, and the brand touts an "effortless, all-in-one brush on builder application" with easy-to-remove gels simply by soaking them off.

Maintenance Between Appointments

Regularly moisturizing the nails and cuticles can help prevent cracking and dryness between appointments. It's also important to refrain from picking or peeling off the gel extensions to prevent damage to your natural nails.

Cost

The cost of gel extensions can range anywhere from $80 to $125. However, this also depends on your location and nail salon. If you're looking for unique colors or high-end designs, that may also increase the price.

How Long Do Gel Nail Extensions Last?

For some people, gel extensions last two weeks; for others, they'll last four to five, according to Davis. "I suggest having a manicure every 12-16 days. You’ll have natural growth after that time," she says.

How Do You Remove Gel Nail Extensions?

To remove gel extensions, the nail technician will file down about 85 percent of the extension. Second, your nail tech will soak off the remaining gel in acetone wrap with aluminum foil and wait 15 minutes. "Then I gently push off the product and buff the natural nail. Removal should take 30-40 minutes [at] the very most," says Seney.

Davis says gel extensions are only detrimental to nail health if not properly removed. "Aprés are soft gel, so they completely soak off like a regular gel manicure," she explains, noting that intense buffing isn't required. However, like regular gel nails, Davis does recommend getting gel extensions removed by a professional—preferably the one who applied them so that they know exactly which type of gel they're removing so that damage is less of a possibility.

Can Gel Nail Extensions Be Removed at Home?

Professional removal is recommended for gel nail extensions to ensure safe removal without causing damage to the natural nails.

Are Gel Nail Extensions Safe?

If applied and removed properly, gel extensions are very safe. "They're considered a healthier version of acrylics, especially because they don't have the powder or harsh chemicals like methyl methacrylate and toluene," says Seney. You just need to be sure to find a professional you trust and one who has good reviews. 

The Final Takeaway

Much like any other manicure look, the benefit of gel nails is personal. While they undoubtedly create more room for popular nail art, Davis reminds us that nails of all lengths can get in on that trend. "The only nail art trend that works better on a clear gel extension is a 'jelly mani' where the polish is sheer," she notes. Therefore, in the end, Davis boils it down to one simple question: "Do you want your nails long?" she asks. "Get extensions."